' 


SOYER'S  STANDARD  COOKERY 


COPYRIGHT,  T9T1 
BY  STURGIS  &  WALTON  COMPANY 

Set  up  and  Electrotyped 

Published,  Augusft  1912 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CONSOMMES— SOUPS I 

SAUCES 36 

FISH  AND  FISH  SAUCES 66 

POULTRY  AND  GAME 113 

VEGETABLES          123 

ENTREES         154 

EGGS  197 

JOINTS  OR  ROASTS 225 

SWEETS  AND  PASTRY 230 

SOUFFLES  AND   SOUFFLE  OMELETTES 289 

JELLIES,  JAMS,  PRESERVES,  FRUIT,  PICKLES 295 

CHEESE  DISHES 307 

VEGETABLE  SALADS 314 

FRUITS:  FRESH,  PRESERVED 318 

HoRS-D'CEuvRES 323 

BREAD,  ROLLS,  MUFFINS,  BUNS  AND  PASTES 338 

CAKE  FILLINGS,  FROSTINGS  AND  ICINGS 361 

DISHES  MADE  WITH   CEREALS 371 

SPECIAL  TASTY  DISHES  FOR  BREAKFAST,  SUPPER  OR  HIGH  TEA  383 

VARIOUS   FRUIT   BEVERAGES 395 

COFFEE  AND  COCOA 402 

JEWISH  DISHES 408 

A  WEEK'S  DINNERS  FOR  THE  WORKING-MAN'S  HOME  .     .     .     .416 


QfiftQ 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

A  Simple  Dish  of  Dessert   (in  Color) Frontispiece 

TO  FACE 

PAGE 

Facsimile  Title-page  of  an  Early  Cookery  Book  published  by 

Alexis   Soyer viii 

Various  Cold  Collations   (in  Color) 40 

Cutlets  in  Preparation  for  Cooking 172 

Roast  Ribs  of  Beef:  Method  of  Carving 200 

Saddle  of  Mutton:  How  to  Carve  (No.  i) 226 1 

Saddle  of  Mutton:  How  to  Carve  (No.  2) 228 

Joints  Made  Ready  for  Table  (in  Color) 306 

Various  Cakes  and  Confections  (in  Color) 360 

Ham    Prepared    for   Table 380 

How  to  Make  Good  Coffee  (No.  i) .     .     .404 

How  to  Make  Good  Coffee  (No.  2) 406 


INTRODUCTION. 

There  was  a  saying,  current  many  years  ago,  that  "  the 
French  have  a  hundred  sauces  and  one  religion,  while  the 
English  are  a  nation  of  a  hundred  religions  and  one  sauce." 

This  friendly  gibe  has  lost  its  point,  for  while  the  French 
have  retained  their  hundred  sauces,  and  even  added  to  the 
number,  they  have  come  near  to  losing  —  if  they  have  not  lost  — 
their  one  religion ;  while  the  English,  with  their  tale  of  religions 
undiminished,  have,  thanks  to  their  French  neighbors,  given 
kindly  welcome  to  more  than  ten  times  one  hundred  sauces, 
and  made  it  difficult  to  trace  the  one  which  used  to  reign  in 
solitary  state. 

And  this  remarkable  change  dates  from  that  significant 
period  —  the  early  days  last  century  —  when,  balked  of  our 
subjugation  by  the  sword,  the  gallant  Frenchmen  came,  saw 
and  conquered  us  with  a  force  comprised  of  but  two  enter- 
prising chefs,  armed  with  nothing  more  warlike  than  their 
toasting-forks  and  brains-marie ! 

Louis  Eustache  Ude  and  Alexis  Soyer  were  the  names  of 
the  doughty  ones,  and  while  both  achieved  fame  in  their 
day,  it  was  given  only  to  Alexis  Soyer  to  have  his  name  last- 
ingly engraved  on  the  Scroll  of  Fame. 

"  The  impression  grows  on  us,"  said  The  Globe,  in  a  burst 
of  enthusiasm,  "  that  the  man  of  the  age  is  neither  Sir  Robert 
Peel,  nor  Lord  John  Russell,  nor  even  Ibrahim  Pacha,  but 
Alexis  Soyer." 

"  Soyer  has  taught  us  to  eat  not  to  appease  hunger,  but 
to  elevate  the  soul,"  said  The  Times  in  1847,  whilst  George 
Augustus  Sala,  with  a  magnanimity  the  more  remarkable  be- 
cause he  so  seldom  praised,  wrote  of  his  one-time  patron :  — 

"He  was,  in  more  than  one  sense,  a  public  benefactor,  and 
won  the  respect  of  all  by  a  great  capacity  for  organization, 
and  by  the  manliness,  simplicity,  and  uprightness  of  his  char- 
acter." 

Born  in  1809  at  Miaux-en-Brie,  Soyer  was  destined  by  his 
parents  for  the  service  of  the  Church,  but  the  life  ecclesiastical 
proved  not  to  his  taste,  so  in  1820  he  went  to  Paris,  and  was 
apprenticed  to  a  cook  at  Grignon.  He  quickly  rose  to  be 

v 


vi  INTRODUCTION. 

head  of  the  kitchen,  but  coquetted  with  the  idea  of  qualifying 
as  an  actor  on  the  comic  stage.  But  steady  promotion  and 
his  brother's  entreaties  taught  him  that  as  chef  he  might  com- 
bine his  fancies,  tickling  the  wit  of  his  patrons  while  he  tickled 
their  palate;  and  so  in  1821,  he  was  appointed  second-in- 
command  of  the  Foreign  Office  Kitchen  in  Paris,  an  appoint- 
ment not  without  danger,  for  during  the  same  year  the  Revolu- 
tionaries forced  their  way  into  the  apartment  of  pots  and 
pans,  butchering  the  staff,  and  it  was  only  by  promptly  and 
ostentatiously  chanting  the  Marseillaise  that  young  Soyer  es- 
caped unhurt  though  frightened. 

He  discovered  that  Paris  was  too  warm,  even  for  a  chef,  so 
came  to  London,  joining  his  brother  in  the  kitchens  of  the 
Duke  of  Cambridge,  followed  by  appointments  with  the  Duke 
of  Sutherland  and  the  Marquis  of  Waterford;  after  which  he 
took  service  with  Mr.  Lloyd,  of  Aston  Hall,  Oswestry,  a  gener- 
ous patron  who  was  subsequently  instrumental  in  installing 
the  young  Frenchman  as  chef  of  the  Reform  Club. 

The  Coronation  Breakfast,  given  at  the  Club  to  two  thousand 
notable  guests,  proved  the  stuff  of  which  the  young  chef  was 
made,  and  from  that  moment  he  was  famous. 

The  kitchens  at  the  Reform  Club  —  designed  by  Soyer  — 
excited  the  wonder  of  the  world,  and  brought  a  constant  stream 
of  visitors,  who  departed  marveling  at  the  completeness  of 
detail  displayed  and  chuckling  over  the  witticisms  of  the  chef. 

His  fame  increased  until  scarcely  any  gastronomic  function 
of  importance  was  projected  without  first  consulting  him. 

This  is  no  place  to  write  at  length  of  his  romantic  marriage 
with  Emma  Jones,  the  young  Welsh  artist  —  the  "  English 
Murillo,"  as  she  was  called  —  although  the  manner  of  his  woo- 
ing and  the  fashionable  wedding  at  St.  George's,  Hanover 
Square,  are  tempting  themes ;  nor  may  we  dwell  on  the  loss  sus- 
tained by  her  husband  and  the  artistic  world  when  Madame 
Soyer  died  in  1842.  It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  while  her  life 
was  an  inspiration  to  her  husband,  her  death  marked  the  turn- 
ing-point in  his  career. 

He  realized  that  basking  in  the  smiles  of  high-born  dames 
was  not  the  summum-bonum  of  existence;  and  with  the  idea 
that  the  wealthy  might  well  be  left  to  take  care  of  themselves, 
he  began  to  devote  his  attention  to  the  cookery  methods  of  the 
multitudes,  and  resigned  his  position  at  the  Reform  Club 
because,  said  he :  — "  through  the  stone  walls  of  that  edifice 
I  could  not  gain  the  slightest  knowledge  of  cottage  life." 


INTRODUCTION.  vii 

The  terrible  Irish  Potato  Famine  gave  him  an  opportunity 
to  put  his  philanthropic  ideas  into  practice,  and  just  when 
the  peasants  were  dying  by  hundreds,  he  went  over  to  Ireland 
and  personally  superintended  schemes  which  he  had  formu- 
lated for  the  immediate  alleviation  of  distress  and  want. 

Public  soup-kitchens  were  erected  —  the  whole  plan  of  which 
was  the  product  of  Soyer's  fertile  brain,  as  was  also  the 
elaborate  system  whereby  thousands  of  the  poor  were  mar- 
shalled, fed  and  dismissed  in  a  few  hours.  At  this  juncture 
he  published  Charitable  Cookery,  at  the  price  of  6d.,  part  of  the 
proceeds  of  the  sale  going  to  a  fund  which  had  been  opened 
for  the  relief  of  the  poor. 

The  Great  Exhibition  in  Hyde  Park  gave  him  a  further 
opportunity  for  the  display  of  his  peculiar  talents.  He  took 
Gore  House,  late  the  residence  of  the  Countess  of  Plessington, 
and  turned  it  into  a  vast  restaurant  which  he  called  "  Soyer's 
Symposium,  a  Restaurant  for  all  Nations,"  providing  thou- 
sands of  meals  per  day  at  popular  prices,  the  menus  ranging 
from  those  suited  to  modest  purses  to  those  which  cost  many 
guineas.  It  was  at  this  time  that  he  commissioned  the  young 
G.  A.  Sala  to  paint  on  the  grand  staircase  a  panorama  which 
was  entitled  "  The  Grand  Macedoine  of  all  Nations ;  being 
a  Demisemitragicomipanodicosmopolytolyofanofunniosymposio- 
rama,  or  Suchagettingupstairstothegreatexhibition  of  1851," 
much  to  the  artist's  annoyance,  who  was,  even  in  those  early 
days,  of  a  somewhat  irascible  temperament.  Soyer  spent  a  for- 
tune on  this  project,  and  came  out  of  it  "with  exactly  £100  in 
the  whole  world,"  a  reversal  of  fortune  for  which  he  was  not 
prepared,  and  which  was,  in  a  measure,  due  to  grandmotherly 
and  high-handed  interference  from  the  authorities. 

Nothing  daunted,  however,  he  next  turned  his  attention 
seriously  to  the  production  of  books  on  cookery,  and  from  the 
sales  of  these  he  repeated  a  rich  harvest. 

News  of  the  distress  in  the  Hospital  Camps  at  Scutari  fired 
his  brain  to  the  formulation  of  a  great  project,  and  on  February 
2,  1855,  London  was  electrified  with  a  letter  from  Soyer  in 
The  Times  of  that  date,  offering  to  go  to  the  Barrack  Hospital, 
at  Scutari,  at  his  own  expense,  and  to  give  his  services  in  the 
work  of  organizing  and  regulating  the  kitchen  operations  there. 

He  was  the  hero  of  the  day;  his  offer  was  accepted  by  the 
Government,  and  in  a  remarkably  short  period  of  time  he  had 
caused  special  stoves  to  be  constructed  which,  together  with 
the  necessary  stores,  he  took  with  him  to  the  field  of  battle. 


viii  INTRODUCTION. 

His  Culinary  Campaign,  published  in  1857,  is  not  only 
illuminating  as  to  the  man  and  his  methods,  while  working 
hand  in  hand  with  Florence  Nightingale,  but  also  affords  an 
interesting  sidelight  on  the  history  of  that  memorable  period. 

Volatile  to  a  degree,  he  never  spared  himself  either  in  the 
kitchen  or  study.  His  Pantropheon,  or  History  of  Food  and 
its  Preparation  from  the  Earliest  Ages  of  the  World,  is  the 
most  remarkable  book  of  its  kind  in  our  language,  representing 
a  compilation  at  once  stupendous  and  masterly. 

His  success  in  the  Crimea  naturally  turned  the  eyes  of  the 
authorities  to  the  man  who  had  worked  such  wonders,  and 
the  whole  system  of  cookery  for  the  Army  and  Navy  was,  as 
a  consequence,  completely  reorganized  by  Soyer.  It  was  really 
the  outcome  of  a  lecture  which  he  delivered  on  March  18, 
1858,  before  the  United  Service  Institution,  and  was  followed 
by  an  instruction  from  the  Barracks  and  Hospitals  Commis- 
sioners to  revise  and  reform  the  dietary  of  Military  Hospitals. 

His  ideas  and  most  of  his  special  menus  were  embodied  in 
the  famous  Army  Regulations  and  Orders — II  —  Cookery, 
issued  in  1860,  and  these,  together  with  his  Field  Kitchen  for 
the  Army,  have  been  scarcely  altered  since  his  day. 

He  died  August  5,  1858,  at  the  early  age  of  forty-nine, 
universally  regretted;  worn  out  in  the  service  of  his  adopted 
country. 

And  now,  after  the  passing  of  half  a  century,  during  which 
time  Soyer's  name  has  been  spoken  and  written  about  by 
epicures  and  gourmets,  in  terms  which  leave  no  doubt  in  our 
minds  as  to  the  influence  the  man  and  his  methods  exerted  on 
English  cookery,  his  grandson,  Nicolas  Soyer,  comes  before 
the  public  in  a  dramatic  fashion.  Leaving  a  lucrative  appoint- 
ment as  chef  to  a  great  and  exclusive  London  Club,  he  has 
devoted  his  attention  and  energies  to  the  question  of  Cookery 
for  the  People,  thus  carrying  on  the  good  work  started  by  his 
grandfather  and  giving  additional  luster  to  the  family  name. 

Those  who  know  Nicolas  Soyer  intimately  have  quite  easily 
discovered  how  much  of  the  grandfather  there  is  in  the  grand- 
son. The  same  high  appreciation  of  his  art;  the  same  inven- 
tive genius;  the  same  passion  for  organization;  the  same  mag- 
netic personality  which  characterized  Alexis  Soyer  are  typical 
of  Nicolas. 

Originally  destined  for  the  Church,  he,  like  his  grandfather, 
left  the  Church  for  the  kitchen,  taking  service  under  Papon, 
a  famed  confectioner  of  Clermont-Ferrand. 


m 


p  "'i 


FACSIMILE  TITLE-PAGE  from  an  early  cookery  book  published  by  the 
famous  Chef,  Alexis  Soyer — the  author's  grandfather. 


INTRODUCTION.  ix 

Like  his  illustrious  ancestor,  he  came  to  London,  and,  after 
preliminary  appointments  in  various  large  kitchens,  became  in 
turn  chef  to  the  Dowager  Duchess  of  Newcastle,  and  Sir 
Herbert  Nay lor-Ley land,  followed  by  a  period  of  eight  or  nine 
years,  during  which  he  speculated  with  varying  success  in  cer- 
tain large  enterprises,  until  at  last  he  returned  to  his  old  love 
and  became  chef  to  Lord  Suffolk,  a  post  which  he  relinquished 
to  become  head  of  the  kitchen  to  that  exclusive  coterie  known 
as  Brooks's  Club. 

Whilst  at  Brooks's  he  tickled  the  noble  palates  of  those  tip- 
stairs  with  dishes,  the  flavor  and  perfect  cooking  of  which 
excited  wonder  and  comment.  The  situation  was  truly  comic, 
for  Soyer  was  at  this  time  nearing  perfection  in  a  series  of 
experiments  towards  Cookery  Reformation  intended  to  benefit 
the  masses,  and  was  concluding  his  experiments  by  practicing 
on  the  delicate  digestions  of  the  most  select  of  the  "  Upper  Ten 
Thousand." 

Nothing  remained  but  to  wait  for  a  favorable  opportunity 
to  bring  his  scheme  before  the  world,  and  this  came  at  last  in 
an  indirect  fashion  by  reason  of  a  challenge  from  a  German 
rival,  who  claimed  great  and  lasting  benefits  from  the  use  of  a 
special  stove  which  he  had  invented. 

Soyer  accepted  the  challenge  and  launched  his  sensational 
Paper-Bag  Cookery,  a  system  of  economical  cookery  which 
took  the  public  by  storm,  and  is  now,  one  year  after  its  intro- 
duction, practiced  by  delighted  housewives  in  many  kitchens 
throughout  the  world.  Praise,  criticism  and  controversy  have 
been  lavished  on  Soyer's  Paper-Bag  Cookery,  and  they  have 
combined  in  making  the  name  of  Soyer  to-day  equal,  if  not 
excel,  the  popularity  accorded  the  family  name  in  the  days  of 
an  older  generation. 

Once  a  chef,  always  a  chef,  and  Nicolas  Soyer  is  no  exception 
to  the  rule.  He  looks  upon  his  Paper-Bag  System  as  a  mere 
interlude  in  his  life  —  important  and  beneficent  to  mankind 
though  it  may  be  —  and  since,  in  the  hundreds  of  popular 
demonstrations  which  he  has  personally  conducted  in  both 
Europe  and -America,  he  has  been  urged  to  give  to  the  world  a 
book  of  General  Cookery,  he  has  felt  it  incumbegft  upon  him  to 
accede  to  these  insistent  requests  and  the  result  is  this  present 
volume. 

As  its  title  indicates,  it  is  a  complete  guide  to  the  art  of 
cooking  dainty,  varied  and  economical  dishes  for  the  household. 

Within   these   pages   is   embodied  the   experience   of  a   life- 


x  INTRODUCTION. 

time  as  chef  in  many  of  the  great  homes  of  England,  and  every 
one  of  the  recipes  is  thoroughly  recommended  by  Monsieur 
Soyer  as  worthy  of  careful  consideration  and  equally  careful 
preparation. 

It  is  not  a  household  guide.  M.  Soyer  has  too  great  a  respect 
for  the  housewife  to  presume  to  teach  her  how  to  manage  her 
household,  a  task  which  she  has  reduced  to  a  fine  art. 

With  a  view  to  making  the  work  as  complete  as  possible,  the 
bulk  of  the  recipes  contained  in  the  brochure,  Paper  Bag  Cook- 
ery, have  been  incorporated,  thus  bringing  within  the  scope 
of  a  handy  volume  as  complete  a  guide  to  present  day  cookery 
as  could  be  conceived. 

W.  J.  R. 


CONSOMMES  —  SOUPS. 

Clear  Soup. 

Procure  five  pounds  of  shin  of  beef,  one  pound  of  knuckle 
of  veal,  and  soak  for  six  hours  in  plenty  of  cold  water. 

Procure  vegetables  as  follows :  —  three  medium-sized  carrots, 
two  turnips,  two  leeks,  four  onions,  all  of  which  should  be 
blanched. 

Into  a  stock-pot  place  the  meat  and  vegetables  and  two  gal- 
lons of  water,  into  which  drop  a  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns 
and  two  cloves;  bring  to  boil  and  after  they  have  boiled  to- 
gether for  one  hour,  carefully  remove  vegetables  for  use  with 
your  soup,  after  being  cut  into  fancy  shapes. 

Continue  boiling  the  meat  for  a  further  three  hours,  occa- 
sionally skimming  off  fat,  and  taking  care  to  fill  up  the  stock- 
pot  with  BOILING  WATER  should  the  liquor  show  signs  of  dimin- 
ishing. The  fat  skimmed  off  should  be  dropped  into  a  bowl 
and,  after  clarifying,  can  be  used  for  frying.  The  meat  should 
be  removed  from  the  stock  and  placed  on  a  flat  dish. 

CLARIFYING  SECOND  STOCK. —  If  you  have  any  cold  meat  you 
desire  to  be  used  up,  place  it  on  a  dish  and  leave  in  oven  un- 
til a  light  brown.  Place  this  in  a  stock-pot  with  the  meat  left 
from  stock-pot  (see  above)  on  top.  Fill  up  with  cold  water 
and  bring  to  boil,  skimming  thoroughly  and  always  replenishing 
the  liquor  by  addition  of  BOILING  WATER.  Add  two  onions,  two 
carrots,  one  leek,  one  turnip  and  a  sprig  of  parsley,  all  pre- 
viously blanched;  to  these  add  a  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns 
and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  for  five  hours,  after  which  strain  through 
a  muslin  into  a  large  bowl  and  leave  until  next  day,  when  skim 
off  fat  which  may  have  collected. 

Now  pass  through  a  meat  chopper  three  pounds  of  lean  gravy 
beef.  Place  this  in  a  large  bowl,  adding  whites  of  two  eggs, 
squeezing  together  so  as  to  compact.  Add  two  quarts  of 
water,  glass  by  glass,  squeezing  the  mass  all  the  while.  Now 
add  the  stock  as  above,  place  in  a  very  clean  stock-pot,  and 
bring  to  boil,  continually  stirring.  When  boiling,  place  stock- 
pot  on  side  of  stove  and  let  simmer  slowly  for  one  hour. 

Now  strain  the  liquor  through  a  double  fold  of  muslin  into  a 
bowl  and  set  on  a  shelf  in  the  pantry,  raising  it  on  small  blocks 
so  that  air  may  pass  beneath,  thus  allowing  to  cool  rapidly  and 
prevent  fermentation. 


2  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

The  carcase  of  a  chicken,  broken  small  and  slightly  browned 
in  the  oven,  is  a  valuable  addition  to  the  above  when  simmer- 
ing by  the  stove-side. 

Stock  for  Brown  Sauce. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pounds  knuckle  of  beef;  two  pounds 
knuckle  of  veal,  one  ham-bone  or  half-pound  of  ham  fat.  The 
carcase  of  a  chicken.  Mutton  or  duck  should  never  be  used. 

Into  a  stock-pot  place  three  onions,  shredded,  one  carrot, 
blanched  and  thinly  sliced,  six  tomatoes,  without  seeds  (half 
a  can  of  tomato  puree,  with  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  will 
do  if  fresh  tomato  is  unobtainable)  ;  add  the  ham  fat  and  a 
little  dripping.  Allow  to  simmer,  but  not  to  take  color,  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Now  add  the  meat  and  fill  up  with  two 
gallons  of  water,  also  adding  a  bouquet  garni  (two  bay  leaves, 
sprig  each  of  thyme  and  parsley,  tied  in  a  bunch),  half  stick  of 
celery  and  teaspoonful  of  peppercorn.  Boil  for  five  hours,  oc- 
casionally skimming  off  fat,  but  always  filling  up  to  two  gal- 
lons with  boiling  water.  Now  strain  through  a  coarse  strainer 
and  allow  liquor  to  stand  until  next  day,  when  remove  fat 
which  has  risen. 

Place  liquor  in  a  clean  stock-pot  and  bring  to  boil. 

Take  in  a  bowl  two  ounces  of  fecule  flour,  or  arrowroot, 
well  dissolve  it  in  two  wine  glasses  full  of  Sherry  or  Madeira 
or  mushroom  juice  (or  water,  if  economy  be  desired).  Now 
keep  stirring  boiling  stock  and  while  stirring,  add  slowly  the 
foregoing  liquid  until  stock  thickens.  Now  remove  from  fire 
and  allow  to  boil  quietly  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Add  col- 
oring matter  until  a  light  brown.  Strain  through  fine  muslin 
and  the  result  is  a  Brown  Sauce.  Place  this  in  a  large  basin 
and  stir  occasionally  until  cold,  thus  preventing  fermentation. 
By  boiling  this  mixture  and  putting  into  a  clean  bowl  every 
second  day  this  sauce  will  keep  until  all  used  up. 

White  Thick  Stock  for  Soup  and  Sauces. 

This  recipe  is  known  only  to  Chefs  of  great  repute  and  is 
one  of  the  leading  white  sauces  in  all  cooking. 

METHOD. —  Make  the  same  stock  as  for  Brown  Sauce  but 
omit  tomato^and  coloring  and  anything  which  would  tend  to 
color.  Also  be  sure  to  add  no  game. 

Blanch  and  chop  finely  one  onion  and  one  carrot.  Dry 
these  and  place  in  a  frying  pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Fry  until  vegetables  are  just 
soft  but  not  colored. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  3 

Melt  in  a  stewpan  half  pound  of  butter  to  which  add  suffi- 
cient flour  to  make  a  paste.  Fill  up  slowly  with  two  gallons  of 
stock,  well  mixing,  and  add  the  vegetables  as  above  with  the 
addition  of  a  bouquet  garni.  Place  on  fire,  stirring  continually, 
until  boiled.  Then  allow  to  simmer  gently  for  one  hour,  oc- 
casionally skimming  off  fat  and  adding  boiling  water  as  re- 
quired. 

Chicken  Consomme. 

This  is  prepared  exactly  as  the  other,  but  after  clarifying, 
you  take  off  the  breast  of  a  chicken  or  fowl,  put  the  carcase 
in  oven  until  light  brown.  Drop  this  free  of  grease  into  con- 
somme and  allow  to  simmer  for  one  hour  or  one  and  a  half 
hours. 

Clear  Game  Soup. 

Exactly  the  same  process.  Take  any  game,  grouse,  hare, 
partridge,  etc.,  etc.  In  serving  game  soup  a  wineglassful  of 
Madeira  is  a  great  improvement. 

Fish  Consomme. 

Fillet  three  soles  of  Whiting.  Take  the  bones  and  place  in  a 
stewpan  into  which  has  previously  been  dropped  butter  about 
size  of  an  egg.  Half  a  chopped  onion,  half  a  carrot  minced 
(both  previously  blanched );  one  bayleaf,  sprig  of  thyme,  lit- 
tle parsley,  teaspoonful  of  peppercorn.  Allow  this  to  simmer 
quietly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  strain  through  muslin  into  a 
vessel  and  allow  to  cool,  which  permits  the  butter  to  be  sep- 
arated from  it.  This  method  is  the  only  one  for  soup  and  the 
formation  of  all  fish  sauces,  which  is  generally  called  in  large 
kitchens  by  the  name  of  Fumee. 

For  clarifying  the  above  it  is  necessary  to  add  two  quarts  of 
water.  Place  two  whites  of  eggs  in  a  basin,  whisk  slightly, 
add  a  glass  of  water  gradually;  place  egg,  water  and  fumee  in 
a  stewpan  and  stir  continually  until  boiling.  Draw  to  side  of 
stove  and  allow  to  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Pass  all  through 
muslin  and  store  in  a  cool  place.  If  not  used,  must  be  brought 
to  the  boil  every  day. 

Clear  Fish  Soup. 

Is  made  with  the  above.  Four  yolks  of  eggs;  place  in  a  stew- 
pan, two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  three  tablespoonfuls  cream, 
salt  and  pepper  at  discretion,  one  glass  of  Madeira,  stir  well 
together,  pouring  into  stock  of  clarified  fumee  and  bring  to 
boil,  whisking  continually.  Strain  into  soup-tureen,  and  it  is 
ready  to  serve  with  bread  cut  into  small  squares  and  fried  in 
butter  until  light  brown,  or  toast  would  do. 


4  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

This  soup  can  be  made  by  using  the  fish  stock  before  clari- 
fying, but  the  use  of  the  clarified  stock  is  preferable. 

Thick  Fish  Soup. 

For  Thick  Fish  Soup,  composed  of  any  fish. 

Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  to  hold  four  quarts 
of  stock,  add  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  stand 
on  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes  but  do  not  allow  to  color. 
Take  off  stewpan  from  fire,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
well  mixed.  Add  two  quarts  of  fish  stock  and  bring  to  boil, 
continually  stirring.  Add  one  bay  leaf,  little  thyme  and  parsley 
tied  together.  One  teaspoonful  of  peppercorn,  little  salt,  two 
or  three  drops  of  Tabasco.  Let  this  boil  for  half  an  hour, 
skimming  at  intervals. 

*  Prepare  in  a  saucepan  four  yolks  of  eggs,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  cream.    Take  some  of  boiling  mixture  and  pour  over 
these,  stirring  quickly.     Pour  all  back  into  the  stewpan,  stir- 
ring briskly.     Whisking  is  preferable  to  stirring  with  a  spoon. 
Bring  to  boil,  stirring  constantly,  strain  into  soup-tureen  add- 
ing one  glass  of  Madeira  or  sherry.     Serve  with  croutons. 

Vegetables  Prepared  for  Soup,  Stew,  or  Garnishing. 

All  Carrots,  Turnips,  Celery,  Onions,  must  be  blanched. 

Blanching  means  to  put  these  vegetables  in  cold  water  (but 
see  that  the  water  covers  them),  and  boil  for  three  minutes; 
then  strain  at  once.  This  is  the  only  way  to  secure  a  good 
flavor  in  soup,  the  vegetables  helping  to  modify  and  not  spoil 
the  flavor  of  the  meat  or  chicken;  also  securing  tenderness  in 
the  vegetables  themselves.  Of  course,  these  vegetables  are 
cut  up  in  different  shapes  before  being  blanched.  This  method 
will  be  found  the  most  perfect  in  existence. 

Clear  Vegetable  Soup. 

Peel  a  medium-sized  carrot  and  turnip,  which  cut  first  into 
slices,  then  into  small  square  pieces  about  the  size  of  dice; 
peel  also  eighteen  button  onions;  wash  the  whole  in  cold 
water  and  drain  them  upon  a  sieve;  when  dry  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar;  set  them  upon  a  very  sharp  fire  for  ten  minutes, 
tossing  them  over  every  now  and  then  until  the  vegetables  be- 
come covered  with  a  thin  shiny  glaze,  which  may  take  rather 
more  than  the  before-mentioned  time;  care,  however,  must  be 
taken,  Tor  should  you  let  them  get  brown,  the  flavor  of  the 

*  This    not  to   be   done   until   dinner   is   just  about   to   be   served,   as   it  is 
more  satisfactory  when  prepared  at  the  last  moment. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  5 

soup  would  be  spoiled;  whilst,  upon  the  other  hand,  if  put  in 
whilst  surrounded  with  a  whitish  liquid,  your  soup  would  look 
white  and  unsightly.  With  a  little  attention,  however,  suc- 
cess is  certain;  and,  once  accomplished,  there  would  be  no 
difficulty  in  making  any  vegetable  soups  or  sauce;  therefore  it 
is  very  desirable  to  know  how  to  do  it  properly.  When  done, 
pour  two  quarts  of  clear  broth  over  them,  set  it  upon  the  fire, 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  place  it  at  the  corner  to 
simmer,  until  the  vegetables  are  quite  tender  (the  onions  es- 
pecially), carefully  skimming  off  all  the  butter  as  it  rises  to 
the  surface;  it  will  require  about  half  an  hour's  simmering, 
and  there  should  be  half  a  pound  of  vegetables  to  two  quarts 
of  stock;  taste  if  properly  seasoned,  which  it  ought  to  be  with 
the  above  proportions,  but  use  your  own  judgment  accordingly. 
The  only  difference  to  be  made  in  these  descriptions  of  soup 
is  in  the  way  the  vegetables  are  cut;  cutters  for  the  purpose 
may  be  purchased  at  most  hardware  shops  at  a  trifling  ex- 
pense. 

Printaniere  Soup. 

Cut  a  small  quantity  of  vegetables,  as  in  the  last,  but  rather 
less  carrot  and  turnip,  introducing  a  little  celery,  leek,  and 
young  spring  onions,  instead  of  the  button  onions;  proceed  ex- 
actly as  before,  but  ten  minutes  before  taking  it  from  the  fire, 
wash  a  few  leaves  of  sorrel,  which  cut  small  and  put  into  the 
soup,  with  six  sprigs  of  chervil;  in  summer,  a  few  fresh-boiled 
peas  or  French  beans  served  in  it  is  an  improvement. 

In  whatever  shape  you  may  cut  the  vegetables  for  soup,  al- 
ways be  cautious  not  to  cut  some  pieces  larger  than  others, 
and  the  whole  of  them  rather  small  than  large;  for  if  some 
pieces  should  be  small  and  others  large,  the  smaller  pieces 
would  quite  be  in  puree,  whilst  the  larger  ones  would  still  be 
quite  hard,  which  would  cause  your  soup  not  only  to  eat  badly, 
but  give  it  an  unsightly  appearance,  for  the  vegetable  boiled 
to  a  puree  would  make  the  soup  thick.  The  above  remark, 
although  simple,  is  still  very  important. 

Consomme  Printanier. 

Have  ready  one  quart  of  consomme,  also  cut  one  carrot  and 
one  turnip  into  roundels  one-half  inch  thick.  With  a  tubular 
cutter,  cut  these  roundels  into  little  rods,  making  a  sufficient 
number  to  fill  one  tablespoon  with  each  vegetable.  Cook  these 
little  rods  in  consomme. 

Put  the   carrot  and  turnip   rods   into  the  soup-tureen  with 


6  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

one  tablespoonful  of  small  peas,  the  same  quantity  of  small 
French  beans  and  asparagus-heads,  the  former  cut  into  lozenges, 
ten  roundels  of  sorrel  leaves,  and  as  many  of  lettuce  leaves, 
the  latter  being  poached  in  some  consomme.  When  about  to 
serve,  pour  the  boiling  consomme  over  these  garnishes  and 
add  a  large  pinch  of  small  chervil  pluches. 

Consomme  Printanier  Aux  Quenelles. 

Prepare  the  printanier  as  directed  above,  but  lessen  the 
quantities  of  the  vegetables. 

Make  some  small  quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat  and  poach 
them  before  dishing  up. 

Drain  them,  put  them  into  the  soup-tureen  with  the  other 
garnishes,  and  pour  thereon  the  boiling  consomme. 

Consomme  Demidoff. 

With  the  small  spoon-cutter,  pick  out  a  good  tablespoonful  of 
carrot,  and  the  same  quantity  of  turnip  pearls.  Cook  these 
vegetables  in  the  customary  way,  and  put  them  in  the  soup- 
tureen,  the  same  quantity  of  peas,  and  small,  poached,  chicken 
forcemeat  quenelles  with  herbs.  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling 
chicken  consomme  over  this  garnish  and  add  a  pinch  of  cher- 
vil pluches. 

Consomme  Deslignac. 

Prepare  two  small,  stuffed  lettuces,  rolled  into  sausage  form 
and  poached;  two  babamolds  of  royale  with  cream.  Cut  the 
royale  into  small  dice;  trim  the  lettuce  and  cut  into  slices; 
put  this  garnish  into  the  soup-tureen  and  pour  thereon  one 
quart  of  boiling  consomme,  thickened  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  poached  tapioca.  Add  a  pinch  of  chervil  pluches. 

Croute  Au  Pot. 

Prepare  a  freshly-cooked  vegetable  garnish  for  a  stock-pot 
—  carrots  and  turnips  cut  into  small  sticks  and  trimmed;  a 
few  heads  of  leeks,  and  cabbage,  parboiled,  minced,  and  cooked 
in  consomme. 

Also  prepare  seven  or  eight  crusts  of  French  soup  "  flutes  " 
and  dry  them  in  the  oven.  Put  the  vegetable  garnish  into  the 
soup-tureen;  pour  on  two  quarts  of  consomme  and  add  the 
dried  crusts  in  soup-tureen. 

Maigre  Soup. 

Cut  two  onions  into  very  small  dice,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter;  fry  them  a  short  time, 
but  not  to  discolor  them;  have  ready  three  or  four  handsful 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  7 

of  well-washed  sorrel,  which  cut  into  ribands  and  put  into 
the  stewpan  with  the  onions,  add  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  then 
mix  well  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  quart  of  water;  boil  altogether 
twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred;  season  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar  and  salt,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  quickly  a 
liaison  *  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream  or 
milk  (it  must  not  boil  afterwards),  put  the  crust  of  a  French 
roll,  cut  into  strips,  in  the  tureen,  pour  the  soup  over,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Onion  Soup  Maigre. 

Peel  and  cut  six  large  onions  into  small  dice,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  place  them 
over  the  fire  until  well  fried,  then  mix  in  well  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  and  rather  more  than  a  quart  of  water;  boil  until  the 
onions  are  quite  tender,  season  with  a  spoonful  of  salt  and  a 
little  sugar;  finish  with  a  liaison,  and  serve  as  in  the  last 

French  Cabbage  Soup. 

This  is  a  soup  very  much  in  vogue  amongst  the  middle 
classes  of  the  French  people.  It  is  very  economical,  and  will 
satisfy  a  numerous  family  at  a  trifling  expense.  Put  a  gallon 
of  water  into  a  saucepan  with  two  pounds  of  streaky  salt  pork 
or  bacon,  to  which  add  a  couple  of  pounds  of  white  cabbage, 
cut  in  strips  (using  every  part  but  the  stalk,  and  previously 
well  washed),  two  large  onions,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  and  a  head 
of  celery;  let  the  whole  boil  three  or  four  hours,  until  the  pork 
is  tender,  skimming  off  all  the  fat,  season  with  a  little  black 
pepper,  brown  sugar,  and  salt,  if  required;  lay  slices  of  bread 
(about  one  pound)  in  your  tureen,  pour  the  soup  over;  keep 
the  tureen  covered  ten  minutes,  until  the  bread  is  soaked,  when 
it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  pork  or  bacon  may  be  either  served 
separate  or  cut  into  small  square  pieces,  and  served  in  the 
soup.  A  few  mealy  potatoes  are  sometimes  introduced,  or 
a  quart  of  large  green  peas,  or  a  pint  of  dry  split  peas. 

It  is  also  frequently  made  by  omitting  the  pork  or  bacon,  add- 
ing more  vegetables  of  all  kinds,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  and  frequently  where  they  have  nothing  else  but 
cabbage,  they  make  it  only  of  that.  I  have  known  strong, 
healthy  men  make  a  hearty  meal  of  it,  preferring  it  to  meat,  of 
which  they  scarcely  ever  partake. 

Puree  of  Vegetable  Soup. 
Peel  and  cut  up  very  finely  three  onions,  three  turnips,  one 

*  See  page  62. 


8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

carrot,  and  four  potatoes,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  of  lean  ham,  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley;  pass  them  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  then 
add  a  good  spoonful  of  flour,  which  mix  well  in,  add  two  quarts 
of  stock,  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  stir  it  until  boiling;  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it  in 
another  stewpan,  boil  again,  skim,  and  serve  with  croutons  of 
fried  bread,  as  for  Palestine  Soup.*  It  ought  to  be  thickish. 
Autumn  Soup. 

Cut  up  four  cabbage-lettuces,  one  cos  ditto,  a  handful  of 
sorrel,  and  a  little  tarragon  and  chervil;  when  well  washed 
and  drained  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  cucumbers 
finely  sliced,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  place  them  over  a 
brisk  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  very  little  liquid  remains; 
then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  it  well  in;  then 
pour  over  three  quarts  of  stock,  adding  a  quart  of  young  and 
fresh  green  peas;  half  an  hour's  boiling  will  suffice  for  this 
delicious  soup,  and  the  flavor  of  the  vegetables  will  be  fully 
preserved;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  of 
sugar. 

Scotch  Cock-a-Leekie. 

Trim  two  or  three  bunches  of  fine  winter  leeks,  cutting  off 
the  roots  and  part  of  the  heads,  then  split  each  in  halves 
lengthwise,  and  each  half  into  three,  which  wash  well  in  two  or 
three  waters,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  stock  pre- 
viously made,  and  a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling;  let  the  whole 
simmer  very  gently  for  three  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed, 
seasoning  a  little  if  required;  half  an  hour  before  serving  add 
two  dozen  French  plums,  without  breaking  them;  when  ready 
to  serve,  take  out  the  fowl,  which  cut  into  neat  pieces,  place 
them  in  a  tureen,  and  pour  the  leeks  and  broth  over,  the  leeks 
being  then  partly  in  puree;  if  too  thick,  however,  add  a  drop 
more  broth  or  water.  Should  the  leeks  happen  to  be  old  and 
strong,  it  would  be  better  to  blanch  them  five  minutes  in  a 
gallon  of  boiling  water  previous  to  putting  them  in  the  stock. 

Although  an  old  cock  is  usually  used  in  Scotland  for  the 
above  purpose,  I  prefer  a  young  fowl;  but  should  an  old  one 
be  most  handy,  stew  it  a  long  time  in  the  stock.  This  soup 
will  keep  good  several  days,  and  would  improve  by  warming  a 
second  time. 

Julienne  Soup. 

This  soup  is  entirely  the  hereditary  property  of  France,  and 

*  See  page  n. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  9 

is  supposed  to  be  so  called  from  the  months  of  June  and  July, 
when  all  vegetables  are  in  full  season ;  and  to  make  it  as  origin- 
ally made,  a  small  quantity  of  every  description  of  vegetables 
should  be  used,  including  lettuce,  sorrel,  and  tarragon ;  however, 
some  few  sorts  of  vegetables,  mixed  together,  make  a  most  es- 
timable soup.  Weigh  half  a  pound  of  the  vegetables  in  fair 
proportions  to  each  other;  that  is,  carrots,  turnips,  onions,  celery, 
and  leeks,  which  cut  into  small  fillets  an  inch  in  length  and  of 
the  thickness  of  a  trussing-needle ;  when  done,  wash,  dry,  and 
pass  them  in  butter  and  sugar  as  before,  add  two  parts  of  clear 
soup,  adding,  just  before  it  is  done,  a  little  sorrel,  cabbage- 
lettuce,  and  chervil  or  peas,  if  handy,  but  it  will  be  excellent 
without  either. 

Consomme  Alexandra. 

Have  a  quart  of  excellent  consomme  ready;  add,  in  order  to 
thicken  slightly,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  poached  tapioca,  very 
clear. 

Put  the  following  garnish  in  the  soup  tureen ;  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  white  chicken  meat  cut  in  fine  julienne-fashion,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  small  chicken  quenelles,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
lettuce,  blanched.  Over  this  pour  the  boiling  consomme  and 
serve  at  once. 

Tomato  Soup  (commonly  called  Portugaise). 

Take  two  pounds  of  tomatoes,  remove  stalks  and  wipe  well. 
Get  a  large  bowl  full  of  boiling  water,  and  drop  four  toma- 
toes at  a  time  therein,  leaving  for  twenty  seconds;  remove 
quickly.  Do  this  until  all  the  tomatoes  have  been  dealt  with. 
This  is  done  in  order  to  remove  the  skins  easily. 

Peel  tomatoes  and  cut  in  two;  remove  seeds.  Take  a  stew- 
pan  to  hold  four  quarts  of  liquid,  put  therein  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, one  onion  finely  chopped  and  melt  together  for  three  min- 
utes to  heat  only  but  not  to  color,  otherwise  the  soup  will  be 
spoiled,  adding  one  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  little 
salt;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  large  tablespoonful  of  flour. 
Drop  all  the  tomatoes  into  the  mixture,  mix  well  together  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  Mirepoix.  Then  add  two  quarts  of  meat 
stock  (not  clarified),  boil  briskly,  stirring  all  the  while,  then 
allow  to  boil  gently  for  one  hour.  Skirn  off  grease  from  time 
to  time  and  then  pass  through  very  fine  sieve,  return  to  stew- 
pan,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  or  Tabasco,  and  if  not  thick 
enough  a  little  arrow-root  or  fecule  diluted  in  a  little  cold 
water  will  slightly  thicken  and  add  to  the  smoothness. 


io  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

If  color  not  rich  enough,  add  cochineal,  drop  by  drop,  until 
deep  enough,  bring  to  boil  and  serve. 

This  may  be  improved  by  adding  the  crushed  carcase  of 
a  chicken  to  the  soup  ten  minutes  before  serving,  enriching 
the  flavor  to  a  remarkable  degree. 

Artichoke  Soup   (commonly  called  Creme  d' Artichoke  or  Pal- 
estine Soup). 

METHOD  OF  COOKING  ARTICHOKES. —  Peel  eighteen  good- 
sized  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  previously  well-washed.  Place 
one  tablespoon  of  salt  into  a  stewpan  holding  four  quarts. 
Add  one  good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  juice  of  one  lemon  or  a 
tablespoonful  of  white  vinegar,  or  both  may  be  used.  Grad- 
ually pour  on  three  quarts  of  water,  place  artichokes  into  this 
and  boil  gently.  A  freshly-peeled  artichoke  usually  takes 
thirty-five  minutes  to  cook  slowly.  When  they  are  soft  they 
are  cooked. 

This  is  the  best  way  to  cook  artichokes,  whether  required  as 
a  dressed  vegetable  or  for  soup.  This  method  preserves  the 
purity  of  color  and  flavor.  If  not  all  used  keep  in  the  liquor. 

To  PREPARE  THE  SOUP. — 

For  ten  persons:  put  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  small  onion 
chopped,  fry  together  until  soft  but  not  colored.  Remove  from 
fire  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  two  quarts  of  hot 
water,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Mirepoix,  and  bring  all  to  boil, 
briskly  stirring  all  the  while.  Place  the  boiled  artichokes  in 
'this  mixture,  allow  to  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  pass 
through  very  fine  sieve  and  return  liquor  to  clean  stewpan,  add- 
ing three  yolks  of  eggs  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
previously  stirred  together.  One  tablespoonful  of  sugar  with 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  A  little  Tabasco  may  be  added  in- 
stead of  the  pepper  if  preferred. 

Serve  with  croutons  in  usual  way.  This  is  a  soup  made  un- 
der the  superintendence  of  all  the  great  Chefs,  but  the  recipe 
for  which  is  rarely  published. 

Consomm6  Ambassadeur. 

Have  one  quart  of  boiling  consomme  ready.  Take  three  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  royale,  cold,  consisting  of  truffle  puree,  tomato 
puree,  and  puree  of  peas,  each  of  which  should  have  been 
poached  in  a  dariole-mold.  Cut  the  royales  into  regular  dice 
and  put  them  in  the  soup-tureen  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
chicken  fillet.  Pour  the  boiling  consomme  over  these  garnishes 
and  serve  at  once. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  11 

Palestine  Soup  or  Puree  of  Artichokes  (another  method). 

Have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  or  ham,  as  also 
an  onion,  a  turnip,  and  a  little  celery,  cut  the  whole  into  small 
thin  slices,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter;  place  them  over  a  sharp  fire  keeping  them  stirred, 
about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  forming  a  whitish  glaze  at  the 
bottom;  then  have  ready  washed,  peeled,  and  cut  into  thin 
slices,  about  twelve  artichokes,  which  put  into  the  stewpan 
with  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  and  stew  until  quite  tender, 
then  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  quite  smoothly,  add 
two  quarts  of  stock  made  as  directed,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk; 
keep  it  constantly  stirred  until  boiling;  season  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  of  sugar,  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve, 
place  it  again  in  a  stewpan;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  keeping  it 
well  skimmed,  and  serve  with  very  small  croutons  of  bread 
(fried  in  butter,  and  dried  upon  a  cloth)  in  the  tureen;  a  gill 
of  cream,  stirred  in  at  the  moment  of  serving,  is  a  great  im- 
provement, although  it  may  be  omitted. 

Crecy  Soup,  or  Puree  of  Carrots. 

Procure  five  or  six  large  carrots,  as  red  as  possible,  which 
scrape  well,  then  shave  them  into  very  thin  slices,  taking  off 
all  the  exterior  red,  but  not  using  the  center,  then  peel  and 
slice  a  large  onion,  a  turnip,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham, 
a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  two  bay-leaves,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan,  with  four  ounces  of  butter,  fry  the  whole  to  a  light 
yellowish  color,  then  add  the  carrots,  with  a  pint  of  water,  and 
let  them  stew  until  perfectly  tender,  mix  in  two  ounces  of  flour 
quite  smoothly,  and  add  five  pints  of  stock;  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  sugar,  and  stir  upon  the  fire  until  boiling,  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  when  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  finish  and  serve  as 
in  the  preceding;  no  cream,  however,  must  be  added.  This 
soup  ought  to  be  of  a  red  color.  Boiled  rice  or  fried  croutons 
may  be  served  in  it. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

Put  two  quarts  of  green  peas  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  cut 
into  small  dice,  two  onions  in  slices,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley; add  a  quart  of  cold  water,  and  with  the  hands  rub  all  well 
together;  then  pour  off  the  water,  cover  the  stewpan  close,  and 
stand  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  the  contents  round  occasion- 
ally; when  very  tender,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  which 
mix  in  well,  mashing  the  peas  with  your  spoon  against  the 


12  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

sides  of  the  stewpan,  add  two  quarts  of  stock,  or  broth  from 
the  Pot-au  feu,  a  tablespoon  of  sugar,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  if  required;  boil  all  well  together  five  minutes,  when  rub 
it  through  a  hair  sieve;  then  put  it  into  another  stewpan  with 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  boil  five  minutes,  skim  well,  and  pour  it 
into  your  tureen.  It  must  not  be  too  thick;  serve  with  croutons 
of  bread  as  for  Palestine  Soup. 

Winter  Pea  Soup. 

Wash  a  quart  of  split  peas,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with 
half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  two  onions  in  slices,  two 
pounds  of  veal  or  beef,  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  a  little  pars- 
ley, thyme,  and  bay-leaf;  add  a  gallon  of  water,  with  a  little 
salt  and  sugar,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  stand 
it  at  the  side  until  the  peas  are  boiled  to  a  puree  and  the  water 
has  reduced  to  half;  then  take  out  the  meat,  which  put  upon  a 
dish,  to  be  eaten  with  the  bacon,  keeping  it  hot;  rub  the  soup 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Put  it  into  another  stewpan,  and  when 
boiling,  serve.  The  meat  may  also  be  served  in  the  tureen  if 
preferred.  Maigre  pea-soup  may  also  be  made  by  omitting  the 
meat,  adding  half  a  pound  of  butter,  one  quart  of  milk,  and 
omitting  a  quart  of  water. 

Consomme  Andalusien. 

Prepare  a  mold  of  royale  made  from  tomato  puree.  When 
quite  cold  cut  into  dice  and  put  in  the  tureen  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  boiled  rice. 

Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  clear  chicken  consomme  over  the 
garnish  and  serve  at  once. 

Consomme  Salburg. 

Cut  a  tablespoonful  of  carrot  pellets  and  the  same  quantity 
of  turnip.  Cook  these  vegetables  by  boiling  them  in  water, 
taking  care  not  to  overcook  them,  a  tablespoonful  of  royale 
made  from  asparagus  heads,  and  a  dozen  small  chicken-force- 
meat quenelles,  in  the  shape  of  large  pearls. 

Poach  the  quenelles,  cut  the  royales  up  into  slices  and  put 
the  whole  into  the  soup-tureen  with  the  carrot  and  turnip  pel- 
lets, and  one  tablespoonful  of  green  peas.  Pour  a  quart  of 
boiling  consomme  over  the  garnish  and  serve. 

Consomme  Boheme. 

Prepare  a  dariole-mold  of  foie-gras  puree,  and  a  few  pro- 
fiterolles  the  size  of  hazelnuts,  the  latter  being  made  very  crisp. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  13 

When  the  royale  is  cold,  cut  into  regular  dice  and  put  in  the 
tureen. 

Pour  over  the  garnish  a  quart  of  consomme  thickened  by 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  poached  tapioca,  and  serve.  Send  the 
profiterolles,  very  hot,  to  the  table  separately. 

Consomme  Bouquetiere. 

Prepare  a  garnish  of  carrots  and  turnips  cut  with  a  tubular 
cutter;  French  beans  cut  into  lozenges,  and  green  peas,  all  of 
which  vegetables  should  be  fresh  and  young.  Cook  each  sep- 
arately and  then  put  into  the  soup-tureen. 

Over  this  garnish  pour  one  quart  of  consomme  thickened 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  perles  du  Japon,  poached  and  strained 
through  linen,  then  serve  at  once. 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

For  six  persons  take  one  pint  of  freshly-shelled  peas  and 
three  pints  of  water,  boil  in  usual  way  and  when  cooked  re- 
tain the  liquor.  Take  a  small  onion,  chopped  fine,  and  put  into 
stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter.  When  butter  is  dissolved 
add  one  large  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  pour  the  peas  and 
liquor  into  same.  Add  three  large  tablespoonfuls  of  Mirepoix, 
allow  to  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Then  pass  through  very 
fine  strainer  or  hair-sieve,  place  back  into  stewpan,  add  half 
a  leaf  of  fresh  mint,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  small  piece 
of  fresh  butter,  bring  to  boil  quickly,  stirring  briskly  the 
while,  otherwise  the  mixture  will  burn.  This  produces  a  nice 
smooth  full-flavored  soup,  commonly  called  St.  Germain. 

Common  and  Cheap  Vegetable  Soups  in  Variety. 
A  delicacy  for  households  where  economy  has  to  be  studied. 
Farmer's  Soup  (known  in  France  as  Fermiere). 

Take  two  ounces  of  butter,  chop  finely  a  large  onion,  slice 
thinly  two  leeks,  shred  finely  six  clean  cabbage  leaves,  fry 
these  slowly  for  five  minutes  to  heat  but  not  to  color.  Now 
add  one  branch  of  celery  if  in  season.  Take  stewpan  off 
fire  and  put  one  large  tablespoonful  of  flour  therein.  Pour  on 
this  four  quarts  of  water,  place  on  fire  and  bring  quickly  to 
boil.  Skim  and  add  four  large  raw  potatoes  sliced.  Boil  for 
one  hour  slowly.  Pass  through  strainer  or  sieve  as  for  thick 
soup,  salt,  pepper  and  sugar  to  taste.  Put  back  into  stewpan 
and  bring  to  boil  quickly  and  serve.  Any  available  scraps  of 
ham  added  to  the  above  while  cooking  much  improve  the 
flavor. 


I4  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

It  can  be  further  improved  by  the  addition  of  two  yolks  of 
eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  as  explained  in  Cereal 
Soup. 

Puree  Bonne  Femme. 

To  make  above,  prepare  Farmer's  Soup,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  take  one  handful  of  sorrel  leaves,  well  washed,  dried  and 
finely  chopped,  place  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and 
melt  together  gently;  stir  well  into  soup-tureen  just  before 
serving.  The  flavor  is  delicious  and  refreshing  and  the  soup 
a  great  favorite. 

Consomme  Fermiere.     (Another  Method.) 

Mince  finely,  one  small  carrot,  one  small  turnip,  the  heads 
of  two  leeks,  and  one  onion.  Slightly  stew  these  vegetables 
in  one  and  one-half  ounce  of  butter;  moisten  with  one  and  one- 
half  pints  of  white  consomme;  add  two  ounces  of  parboiled 
cabbage,  cut  into  a  julienne,  and  complete  the  cooking  gently, 
taking  care  to  remove  all  grease,  with  the  view  of  obtaining 
a  very  clear  consomme.  Add  a  few  thin  slices  of  French 
bread  cut  thinly  and  dried. 

Garbure  Soup. 

This  soup  may  be  made  with  all  kinds  of  vegetables. 

PROCEDURE. —  Take  a  five  quart  stewpan,  fill  with  water  and 
bring  to  boil.  Meanwhile  clean  a  small  cabbage,  cutting  away 
all  stalk,  and  divide  into  four.  Slice  six  good-sized  potatoes, 
clean  two  leeks,  and  cut  into  half-inch  lengths,  slice  one  turnip 
and  one  carrot,  and  finely  chop  one  large  onion.  Wash  well 
all  these  vegetables  and  place  in  the  stewpan  when  water  boils. 
Into  this  put  half  a  pint  of  haricot  beans,  which  should  have 
been  soaking  from  the  day  before. 

To  give  strength  and  flavor  add  either  one  and  a  half  pounds 
of  knuckle  of  beef  or  veal,  or  half-pound  of  streaky  bacon  (pre- 
viously blanched  for  three  minutes  in  boiling  water),  or  the  re- 
mains of  a  ham ;  either  of  these  according  to  taste.  Boil  all  to- 
gether slowly  for  one-and-a-half  hours.  Now  withdraw  the 
meat  which  may  be  served  as  a  separate  dish.  Prepare  crou- 
tons cut  very  thin  and  bake  until  a  light  brown,  when  serve 
with  the  soup.  Before  the  soup  is  put  into  the  tureen,  the  fat 
floating  on  top  should  be  skimmed  off,  after  which  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste. 

In  ordinary  French  households  this  inexpensive  dish  is  con- 
cocted every  day  and  given  to  the  children  either  at  breakfast 
or  supper.  Prepared  during  the  day  it  can  be  served  hot  at 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  15 

night  and  anything  remaining  is  warmed  up  for  use  in  the 
morning. 

Consomme  Bourdaloue. 
Prepare  a  dariole-mold  of  each  of  the  four  following  royales. 

1.  A  puree  of  haricot-beans  with  a  soupcon  of  tomato. 

2.  A  chicken  puree  moistened  with  veloute. 

3.  A  puree  of  asparagus-tops,  with  a  few  cooked  spinach 
leaves,  to  give  a  color. 

4.  A  puree  of  carrot. 

Poach  and  cool  the  royales,  then  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 
Put  all  into  a  soup-tureen  and  pour  over  a  quart  of  boiling 
and  very  clear  chicken  consomme.     Serve  at  once. 

Consomme  Carmen. 

Prepare  one  quart  of  consomme  to  which  add,  while  clarify- 
ing, one  quarter  pint  of  raw  tomato  puree  in  order  to  give  it  a 
faint  pink  tinge. 

Peel  and  press  a  small  tomato;  cut  into  dice  and  poach  in  a 
little  of  the  consomme;  put  them  into  the  soup-tureen  with  a 
tablesponful  of  mild  capsicum,  cut  in  julienne-fashion,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  plain  boiled  rice.  Over  this  garnish  pour  the 
boiling  consomme,  adding  a  small  pinch  of  chervil  pluches,  then 
serve  at  once. 

Consomme  Chartreuse. 

Prepare  six  ravioles  of  spinach  puree.  Six  of  foie-gras 
puree,  and  six  of  chopped  mushrooms,  two  small  tablespoonfuls 
of  tomato  dice.  Ten  minutes  before  serving,  poach  the  ravioles 
in  boiling  salted  water  and  the  tomato  dice  in  some  of  the  con- 
somme. 

Put  the  ravioles  and  the  tomato  dice  (well-drained)  into 
the  soup-tureen,  and  pour  over  them  one  quart  of  consomme 
with  a  moderate  addition  of  tapioca.  Add  a  pinch  of  chervil 
pluches. 

Onion  Soup. 

This  soup,  which  is  easily  and  cheaply  prepared,  is  in  great 
favor  in  the  rural  parts  of  France. 

Cut  four  medium-sized  onions  into  dice,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  cook  very  gently  for  an 
hour,  being  careful  that  the  onions  do  not  become  discolored. 
Next  add  half  a  pint  of  white  stock,  or  water,  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  one  or  two  slices  of  bread  reduced  to  crumbs,  and  simmer 
the  whole  gently  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Then 


1 6  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  it  to  the  stewpan, 
and  make  very  hot. 

Season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  sprinkle  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese  gradually,  stirring  briskly 
meanwhile.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Chickory  Soup. 

Trim  four  heads  of  chickory,  boil  until  half  cooked,  then 
drain  and  mince  very  finely.  Mix  well  with  this  two  ounces 
each  of  flour  and  butter  and  a  sprinkling  of  pepper,  salt  and 
mace.  Next  place  the  mixture  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of 
white  stock  and  a  cupful  of  boiling  milk.  Cook  carefully  for 
an  hour.  Now  beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  in  half  a  cupful  of 
milk,  add  to  the  soup  as  soon  it  has  gone  off  the  boil,  and  strain 
the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Watercress  Soup. 

Take  two  or  three  good  handfuls  of  tender  shoots  of  water- 
cress, thoroughly  wash  and  drain  from  all  superfluous  moisture. 
If  the  sprigs  are  at  all  long  break  them  up.  Place  in  an  enam- 
eled saucepan  with  a  quart  of  good  white  stock  and  simmer 
until  the  watercress  is  almost  dissolved.  Then  thicken  with  a 
little  flour  and  add  a  small  cupful  of  good  cream  or  a  little 
butter  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast. 

Onion  Broth. 

Slice  six  parboiled  onions  and  fry  lightly  in  an  ounce  of 
butter  with  a  little  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt.  Add  them 
to  a  quart  of  white  stock  —  chicken  broth  or  fish  stock  is 
preferable  —  with  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and 
then  stir  in  a  pint  of  hot  milk.  Press  the  whole  through  a  cloth 
or  sieve  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Small  slices  of  toast 
should  be  served  with  the  soup. 

Onion  and  Cheese  Soup. 

Fry  four  sliced  onions  in  butter  and  add  them  to  a  quart 
of  strong  clear  stock  very  hot.  Pour  this  into  an  earthen- 
ware cooking  pot  and  float  on  the  surface  some  small  rounds  of 
toast,  each  thickly  sprinkled  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 
Serve  in  the  cooking  pot  as  hot  as  possible. 

In  Italy  this  soup  is  usually  served  in  small  bowls  instead 
of  in  soup  plates. 

Leek  Soup. 

Cut  off  the  green  tops  from  a  large  bunch  of  leeks  and  slice 
the  rest.  Fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  add  a  pint  of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  17 

white  stock  and  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  with  which  two  ounces  of 
flour  have  been  mixed  carefully.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  a  little  parsley.  After  cooking  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  stir  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  serve  with  very  small 
triangles  of  toast. 

Jackson  Soup. 

Slice  six  parboiled  potatoes  and  fry  them  lightly  in  two 
ounces  of  butter.  Add  two  ounces  of  minced  ham,  a  sliced 
onion,  half-a-dozen  hearts  of  celery,  and  a  little  parsley,  nut- 
meg, pepper,  and  salt,  with  just  sufficient  stock  to  well  moisten. 
After  simmering  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  pass  the  whole 
through  a  sieve  into  a  pint  of  white  stock  to  which  has  been 
added  the  same  quantity  of  boiling  milk  with  two  ounces  of 
butter  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  After  stirring  thoroughly 
add  a  few  tiny  squares  of  toast  and  serve  without  delay. 

Piedmontese  Soup. 

Slice  eight  large  turnips  into  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  melted 
butter,  to  which  has  been  added  a  tablespoonful  of  sifted  sugar. 
Fry  briskly  until  the  turnips  are  slightly  browned,  then  add 
two  quarts  of  strong  stock,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  gently 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  after  which  strain  carefully  and 
add  a  large  tablespoonful  of  stewed  tomatoes. 

Now  pound  four  anchovies  with  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  little 
butter  into  a  smooth  paste.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add 
to  the  soup. 

Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen  containing  two  dozen  very  small 
balls  of  mashed  potatoes  previously  fried  till  the  outsides  are 
crisp,  and  add,  if  obtainable,  some  parboiled  tarragon  leaves. 

Grated  Parmesan  cheese  should  be  handed  round  separately 
and  added  to  the  soup  at  discretion. 

Cabbage  Soup. 

Partly  boil  a  head  of  cabbage  and  chop  finely.  Next  fry 
it  in  a  little  butter,  mix  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  add 
to  one  quart  of  veal  broth,  flavoring  with  pepper  and  salt. 
After  simmering  gently  for  an  hour  pass  the  soup  through  a 
sieve,  add  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  and  serve  at  once. 

Celery  Puree. 

Wash  some  celery  well,  and  remove  all  the  outside  parts; 
cut  up  half-a-pound,  put  it  on  in  cold  salted  water,  bring  this 
to  the  boil,  take  out  the  celery  and  drain.  Put  the  celery  into 
a  pan  with  one-and-a-half  gills  of  milk,  half  a  bay  leaf,  a 


i8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

blade  of  mace,  a  slice  of  onion,  and  boil  it  all  till  tender,  then 
rub  the  celery  through  a  sieve  and  it  is  ready. 

Turnip  Soup. 

Fry  a  quart  and  a  half  of  sliced  turnips  with  two  ounces 
of  butter,  the  same  quantity  of  flour,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
sugar.  Add  to  these  a  pint  of  tomatoes  with  a  little  thyme, 
parsley,  and  bay  leaf.  After  simmering  for  one  hour,  strain 
the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  add  one  cupful  of  hot  beef  soup 
and  flavor  with  pepper,  salt  and  grated  cheese. 

Cucumber  Soup. 

Peel  and  slice  four  large  cucumbers,  and  after  removing  the 
seeds  fry  in  one  ounce  of  butter.  Turn  them  into  a  quart  of 
white  stock  to  which  has  been  added  a  pint  of  hot  milk  with 
a  blade  of  mace  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Cook  gently 
for  one  and  a  half  hours,  then  thicken  with  flour  and  butter  and 
pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve. 

Tchi. 

This  is  a  favorite  soup  in  Russia,  and  is  very  easily  prepared. 

Take  one  pound  of  forcemeat,  make  into  small  balls,  and 
fry  a  golden  brown.  Mince  the  heart  of  a  cabbage  and  two 
large  onions  and  fry  in  butter  or  suet.  Add  the  vegetables  to 
three  pints  of  stock,  thicken  with  two  ounces  of  flour,  and 
flavor  with  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley.  After  cooking  one  hour 
add  the  balls  of  forcemeat  and  one  small  glass  of  tarragon 
vinegar  before  serving. 

Pepperpot. 

Take  one  pint  of  mixed  vegetables  cut  small  —  any  sorts 
that  you  happen  to  have  —  add  three  quarts  of  water,  together 
with  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  mutton,  and  tripe  fried  in  butter. 
Flavor  with  one  clove,  one  bay  leaf,  and  a  small  bunch  of 
parsley,  thyme,  and  sweet  marjoram.  Cover  closely  and  cook 
for  three  hours.  Let  it  cool  thoroughly,  then  remove  the  fat, 
thicken  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little  butter  and  flour, 
add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  make  very  hot  before  serving. 

Potage   Bortsch. 

Cut  in  julienne-fashion  the  heads  of  two  leeks,  one  carrot, 
half  an  onion,  four  ounces  of  white  cabbage  leaves,  previously 
blanched,  half  a  root  of  parsley,  the  heart  of  a  stick  of  celery 
and  four  ounces  of  beetroot;  stew  the  whole  gently  in  butter 
for  ten  minutes. 

Moisten  with  six  quarts  of  white  consomme  and  two  or  three 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  19 

tablespoonfuls  of  the  juice  of  grated  beetroot;  add  a  sprig  of 
sweet  marjoram,  two  pounds  of  moderately  fat  breast  of  beef, 
and  a  half  of  a  semi-roasted  duck;  set  to  cook  gently  for  four 
hours. 

When  about  to  serve,  cut  the  beef  into  large  dice,  and  the 
duck  into  small  slices.  Put  into  the  soup  one  quarter  pint  of 
beetroot  juice  extracted  from  grated  beetroot  pressed  in  linen, 
and  a  little  blanched  and  chopped  fennel  and  parsley.  Now 
put  in  the  beef  and  duck  with  twelve  grilled  and  despumated 
chipolatas. 

A  sauceboat  of  sour  cream  should  be  served  separately. 

Consomme  A  1'ficossaise. 

Prepare  a  mutton  broth,  and  at  the  same  time  cook  a  piece 
of  breast  of  mutton  for  the  garnish. 

For  four  quarts  of  broth,  put  into  the  soup-tureen,  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  pearl-barley  cooked  beforehand;  and  the 
breast  of  mutton  cut  into  regular  dice  of  one-fifth  of  an  inch, 
in  the  proportion  of  one  tablespoonful  for  each  person. 

Pour  the  boiling  mutton  broth  over  this  garnish. 

Consomme   Divette. 

Prepare  four  baba-molds  of  royale  made  from  crayfish 
veloute,  thirty-six  small  quenelles  of  whiting  forcemeat,  molded 
to  the  shape  of  pearls,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  small  pearls  of 
truffle. 

Cut  the  royale  into  oval  slices,  and  put  these  into  the  soup 
with  the  poached  quenelles  and  the  truffle  pearls. 

Pour  two  quarts  of  very  clear,  boiling  consomme  over  the 
garnish. 

Consomme  Gauloise. 

Prepare  one  mold  of  ham  royale,  and  poach  the  latter  in 
a  small,  well-buttered  Charlotte  mold.  When  quite  cold,  cut 
it  into  large  lozenges,  and  put  these  into  the  soup-tureen,  and 
six  small  cocks'  kidneys  cut  in  slices. 

When  about  to  serve,  pour  over  this  garnish  one  quart  of 
consomme,  thickened  slightly  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
poached  tapioca. 

Pot-au-feu. 

A  soup  which  finds  favor  with  all  classes  of  society  in 
France,  rich  and  poor  alike,  as  a  tribute  to  its  excellence  and 
worth.  It  is  to  the  French  what  roast  beef  and  plum-pudding 
are  to  the  English.  No  dinner  in  France  is  served  without 


20  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

soup,  and  no  good  soup  is  supposed  to  be  made  without  the 
pot-au-feu. 

The  following  is  the  recipe:  Put  in  the  pot-au-feu  six 
pounds  of  beef,  four  quarts  of  water,  set  near  the  fire,  skim; 
when  nearly  boiling,  add  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half 
a  pound  of  liver,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight  young  or  two 
old  leeks,  one  head  of  celery,  two  onions  and  one  burnt,  with 
a  clove  in  each,  and  a  piece  of  parsnip,  skim  again,  and  let 
simmer  four  or  five  hours,  adding  a  little  cold  water  now  and 
then ;  take  off  part  of  the  fat,  put  slices  of  bread  into  the  tureen, 
lay  half  the  vegetables  over,. and  half  the  broth,  and  serve  the 
meat  separately  with  the  vegetables  around. 

Hodge-Podge. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  fresh  scrag  of  mutton  into  small  pieces, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  quarts  of  cold  water  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  set  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling, 
place  it  at  the  corner  to  simmer,  keeping  it  well  skimmed;  let 
it  simmer  an  hour,  then  add  a  good-sized  carrot,  two  turnips, 
two  large  onions  cut  into  small  dice,  and  six  cabbage-lettuces, 
if  in  season  (the  whole  well  washed),  and  let  simmer  until  quite 
tender;  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  serve  either  with  the  meat  in 
the  soup  or  separately.  If  in  season,  a  pint  of  green  peas 
boiled  in  the  soup  is  a  great  improvement. 

Ox-Tail  Soup. 

Cut  up  two  ox-tails,  separating  them  at  the  joints,  put  a 
small  piece  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  then  put  in 
the  ox-tails,  with  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  onions,  a  head  of 
celery,  a  leek,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf; 
add  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  twelve  grains  of  whole  pepper, 
set  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  the  bottom  of 
the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  thickish  brown  glaze,  then  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  it  in  well,  and  fill  up  the 
stewpan  with  three  quarts  of  water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  and  stir  occasionally  until  boiling;  then  set  it  upon  the 
corner  of  the  stove,  skim  well,  add  a  gill  of  good  brown  gravy, 
or  a  few  drops  of  browning,  and  let  simmer  until  the  tails  are 
stewed  very  tender,  the  flesh  coming  easily  from  the  bones, 
then  take  them  out  immediately,  and  put  them  into  your  tureen ; 
pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them,  add  a  head  of 
celery,  previously  cut  small  and  boiled  in  a  little  stock,  and 
serve. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  21 

Ox-Cheek  Soup. 

Blanch  in  boiling  water  two  ox-cheeks,  cut  off  the  beard, 
take  away  all  the  bone,  which  chop  up,  and  cut  the  flesh  into 
medium  sized  pieces,  leaving  the  cheek  part  whole;  put  all 
together  into  a  stewpan,  with  four  quarts  of  water,  a  little 
salt,  ten  peppercorns,  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  one  leek,  one 
head  of  celery,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf; 
let  it  simmer  for  six  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed;  then 
take  out  the  fleshy  part  of  the  cheeks,  and  pass  the  broth 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan;  mix  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  flour  with  a  pint  of  cold  broth,  which  pour  into  it, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  when  place  it  at  the  corner 
(adding  two  heads  of  celery,  cut  very  fine,  and  a  glass  of 
sherry)  ;  when  the  celery  is  tender,  cut  the  meat  into  small 
square  pieces,  keep  them  warm  in  the  tureen,  and  when  the 
soup  is  ready,  pour  over,  and  serve;  give  it  a  nice  color  with 
browning. 

Sheep's  or  lamb's  heads  also  make  very  good  soup  by  follow- 
ing the  above  recipe,  and  adding  two  pounds  of  veal,  mutton, 
or  beef  to  the  stock;  two  heads  would  be  sufficient,  and  they 
would  not  require  so  long  to  stew. 

White  Mock-Turtle  Soup. 

Procure  half  a  calf's  head,  (scalded,  not  skinned),  bone  it, 
then  cut  up  a  knuckle  of  veal,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  well 
buttered  at  the  bottom,  with  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  an  ounce 
of  salt,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  onions,  a  head  of  celery,  a 
leek,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  pint  of 
water;  set  it  upon  the  fire,  moving  it  round  occasionally,  until 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  glaze;  then 
add  six  quarts  of  water,  and  put  in  the  half  head,  let  simmer 
gently  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  or  until  the  head  is  tender, 
then  take  it  out,  and  press  it  between  two  dishes,  and  pass  the 
stock  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  bowl;  then  in  another  stew- 
pan have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  basil,  marjoram  and  bay-leaf,  let  the  butter  get  quite 
hot,  then  add  six  ounces  of  flour  to  form  a  roux,  stir  over  a 
sharp  fire  a  few  minutes,  keeping  it  quite  white;  stand  it  off 
the  fire  to  cool,  then  add  the  stock,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
boiling,  then  stand  it  at  the  corner,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and 
pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan;  cut  the  head 
into  pieces  an  inch  square,  but  not  too  thick,  and  put  them 
into  the  soup,  which  season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper;  when 


22  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  pieces  are  hot,  add  a  gill  of  cream  and  pour  it  into  your 
tureen. 

The  above  quantity  would  make  two  tureens  of  soup,  and  will 
keep  good  several  days,  but  of  course  half  the  quantity  could 
be  made. 

Mutton  Broth. 

Any  description  of  trimmings  of  mutton  may  be  used  for 
broth,  but  the  scrag  ends  of  the  neck  are  usually  chosen.  Put 
two  scrags  into  a  stewpan  (having  previously  jointed  the 
bones),  with  three  onions,  three  turnips,  and  one  carrot;  fill 
up  the  stewpan  with  a  gallon  of  water,  and  place  it  upon  the 
fire;  when  boiling,  set  it  at  the  corner,  where  let  it  simmer  for 
three  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed;  then  cut  a  small  carrot, 
two  turnips,  an  onion,  with  a  little  leek  and  celery,  into  small 
square  pieces,  which  put  into  another  stewpan,  with  a  wine- 
glassful  of  pearl-barley;  skim  every  particle  of  fat  from  the 
broth,  which  pour  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them;  let  the 
whole  boil  gently  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  until  the  barley  is 
tender,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve;  the  meat  may  be  trimmed 
into  neat  pieces,  and  served  with  the  broth,  or  separately  with 
melted  butter  and  parsley,  or  onion  sauce.  Half  or  even  a 
quarter  of  the  above  quantity  can  be  made  by  reducing  the  in- 
gredients in  proportion. 

Irish  Soup  Made  of  Mutton  Broth. 

This  soup  is  made  similar  to  the  last,  adding  ten  or  twelve 
mealy  potatoes  cut  into  large  dice,  omitting  the  other  vegetables, 
which  being  boiled  to  a  puree  thicken  the  broth;  just  before 
serving,  throw  in  twenty  heads  of  parsley,  and  at  the  same 
time  add  a  few  flowers  of  marigold,  which  will  really  give  it 
a  very  pleasing  flavor. 

Punchero. 

Take  a  pig's  foot,  half  a  pound  of  ham,  three  pounds  of  lean 
beef  and  the  giblets  of  a  fowl.  Cut  all  into  moderate-sized 
pieces  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  two  handfuls  of  split  peas. 
Add  sufficient  water  to  cover  and  simmer  for  two  hours. 

Now  add  half  a  cabbage,  a  head  of  lettuce,  both  coarsely 
cut,  a  sliced  carrot,  and  a  small  bunch  of  mixed  herbs.  Let 
the  whole  simmer  for  an  hour,  then  add  six  small  sausages  and 
boil  until  these  are  cooked, 

Strain  out  the  meat  and  vegetables,  arrange  them  on  a  sep- 
arate dish,  then  thicken  the  soup,  if  necessary,  and  serve  at 
once. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  23 

Mutton  Broth. 

Take  a  shoulder  or  neck  of  mutton,  remove  the  bones,  slice 
the  meat  into  two  quarts  of  water.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
minced  ham,  an  onion,  a  carrot,  half  a  pint  of  split  peas  and 
a  little  parsley  and  any  other  herbs  that  are  liked.  After  cook- 
ing well  for  three  hours  take  away  the  bones  and  cut  up  the 
meat  into  smaller  pieces.  Now  pass  the  soup  through  a  cloth 
or  sieve  and  replace  the  meat  making  the  whole  very  hot  be- 
fore serving. 

Liver  Soup. 

Slice  half  a  pound  of  liver,  sprinkle  well  with  flour,  and  fry 
with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  thinly  sliced  onion.  Next 
pound  it  thoroughly,  reduce  three  slices  of  stale  bread  to  crumbs, 
and  place  the  whole  in  three  pints  of  brown  stock  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.  After  boiling  twenty  minutes  pass  the  whole 
through  a  sieve,  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

Cod  Soup. 

Take  the  flesh  of  three  moderate-sized  cod-fish,  cut  into 
rather  small  pieces  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts 
of  veal  or  other  white  stock.  Add  a  medium-sized  onion,  a 
bay  leaf  and  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  marjoram.  Let  the 
whole  cook  steadily  for  two  hours  and  then  press  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Add  a  thickening  of  flour  and  butter,  flavor  with 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  next  add  a  glass  of  white  wine 
and  a  dozen  bearded  oysters. 

Let  the  whole  simmer  very  gently  for  ten  minutes  —  or  un- 
til the  oysters  are  done  —  and  serve  hot. 

Frog  Soup. 

Take  a  quart  and  a  half  of  good  white  stock  and  add  to 
it  a  small  sliced  onion,  a  pinch  of  parsley,  one  and  a  half 
ounces  of  flour  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  After  simmering 
gently  for  an  hour  strain  the  soup  and  add  to  it  a  glass 
of  dry  sherry  and  about  a  dozen  frogs'  legs  previously  fried 
to  a  golden  tint  in  butter.  Let  the  whole  simmer  for  another 
half-hour. 

Blend  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  thoroughly  in  a  cup  of  hot 
milk  with  a  little  butter,  and  add  to  the  soup,  which  should 
be  served  as  hot  as  possible. 

Fish  Soup. 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  any  large  fresh  fish  and  cut  it 
into  moderate-sized  pieces.  Slice  finely  one  small  onion,  a 


24  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

small  carrot,  half  a  stick  of  celery,  and  half  a  dozen  button 
mushrooms.  Next  take  a  large  stewpan  and  put  into  it  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil.  As  soon 
as  these  are  blended,  add  a  sliced  onion  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley  and  fry  them.  Next  add  the  other  veg- 
etables and  the  pieces  of  fish,  being  careful  that  they  are  quite 
dry.  Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  till  the  fish  is 
slightly  browned.  Now  add  three  or  four  sliced  tomatoes  and 
about  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  let  the  whole  simmer 
until  the  fish  is  thoroughly  cooked,  skimming  carefully  from 
time  to  time. 

When  the  soup  has  cooled  a  little,  strain  it,  and  after  re- 
moving the  fish  bones  rub  both  the  fish  and  vegetables  through 
a  sieve  and  put  them  back  into  the  broth.  Let  the  whole  sim- 
mer for  another  ten  minutes  before  serving. 

Slice  a  small  French  roll  and  bake  it  in  the  oven  till  moder- 
ately brown.  Put  these  slices  into  the  tureen  and  pour  the  soup 
over  them. 

Grated  Parmesan  cheese  is  usually  served  with  this  soup. 

Fish  Broth. 

Save  the  water  in  which  any  large  fish  has  been  boiled,  add 
the  scraps  left  from  the  fish,  and  simmer  the  whole  until  it  is 
reduced  to  a  quart.  After  straining,  add  six  potatoes,  a  car- 
rot and  a  leek,  all  sliced,  some  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Let 
it  simmer  again  for  half  an  hour  and  then  add  twelve  oysters,  a 
tablespoonful  of  sherry,  a  pint  of  hot  white  stock,  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.  Cook  gently  for  ten  minutes  more  —  or  until 
the  oysters  are  done  —  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Lobster  Soup. 

Fry  an  ounce  of  chopped  ham,  a  minced  onion,  and  a 
minced  carrot  with  a  little  parsley  and  thyme  in  one  ounce  of 
butter.  Place  this  in  a  quart  and  a  half  of  white  stock  to- 
gether with  a  pint  of  any  white  wine  and  three  pounds  of 
boiled  lobster  chopped  up  small.  After  simmering  for  an  hour 
strain  the  whole,  add  a  sliced  hard-boiled  egg,  a  little  butter, 
and  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice.  Make  very  hot  and  serve  with 
sippets  of  toast. 

Lenten  Broth. 

This  is  a  favorite  dish  in  many  of  the  Austrian  convents. 
Cut  two   pounds   of   any   fish   into   pieces   of  moderate   size 
and  cook  for  two  hours  in  a  quart  of  water  with  a  carrot, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  25 

onion,  turnip,  two  sticks  of  celery,  and  a  small  bunch  of  any 
herbs  that  are  liked. 

Next  take  out  the  fish,  and  after  removing  the  skin  and  bones 
replace  the  fish  in  the  broth,  adding  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  with 
which  has  been  mixed  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  the  juice  of  a  small 
lemon,  and  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg.  Thicken  with  flour 
and  butter,  pass  through  a  sieve,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Bouillabaisse. 

This  is  one  of  the  famous  dishes  of  the  South  of  France 
and  can  be  prepared  with  comparatively  little  trouble. 

Take  three  pounds  of  mixed  fish  —  any  kinds  of  fresh  fish 
will  do  —  and  cut  them  into  rather  large  pieces.  Add  a  lobster 
or  crayfish,  also  cut  up,  and,  if  liked,  a  couple  of  dozen  mussels 
in  their  shells.  Fry  the  whole  lightly  in  half  a  pint  of  olive  oil 
and  then  add  two  tomatoes,  an  onion,  carrot,  and  a  lemon,  all 
sliced,  together  with  a  bay  leaf,  a  little  parsley,  and  as  much 
saffron  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence.  A  clove  of  garlic  may  be 
added  if  the  flavor  is  not  objected  to.  Stir  the  whole  very 
carefully  for  ten  minutes,  adding  a  cupful  or  more  of  strong 
stock  and  a  glass  of  white  wine.  Simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  longer  and  add  a  few  small  triangles  of  toast. 

This  may  be  served  together,  or  the  fish  may  be  arranged 
on  a  dish,  and  the  soup  served  separately.  It  is  an  improve- 
ment to  serve  a  sauce  poulette  with  the  bouillabaisse. 

Eel  Soup. 

Take  two  pounds  of  eels  cut  in  pieces  and  cook  them  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  to  which  has  been 
added  half  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  a  carrot,  an  onion,  some  parsley 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Then  remove  the  eels  and  mix 
one-half  of  the  eel  broth  with  two  quarts  of  white  stock,  ad- 
ding a  cupful  of  thinly  sliced  boiled  carrot,  the  same  quantity 
of  cooked  peas,  and  a  little  thyme  and  marjoram.  Mix  thor- 
oughly, add  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  and  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  and 
pour  the  whole  into  a  soup-tureen  over  the  eels. 

In  Hamburg,  a  dish  of  stewed  pears  is  always  served  with 
eel  soup. 

Shrimp  Cream. 

Shell  and  chop  fifty  shrimps  and  fry  them  in  two  ounces  of 
butter.  Place  them  in  two  quarts  of  white  stock,  together  with 
three  anchovies,  a  sliced  onion,  four  ounces  of  boiled  rice,  a 
piece  of  stale  bread,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  After  cook- 


26  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ing  slowly  for  two  hours  press  through  a  sieve,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sherry,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Oyster  Soup. 

Put  four  dozen  oysters  into  a  stewpan  with  their  liquor, 
place  upon  the  fire;  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  drain 
them  upon  a  sieve  catching  the  liquor  in  a  bowl ;  take  off  the 
beards,  which  put  into  the  liquor,  and  the  oysters  into  a  soup- 
tureen;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  another 
stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  when  melted  add  six  ounces  of 
flour,  stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  short  time,  but  keeping  it 
quite  white;  let  it  cool,  then  add  the  liquor  and  beards  of  the 
oysters,  a  quart  of  milk,  and  two  quarts  of  stock,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  boiling,  then  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  five  peppercorns,  half  a  blade 
of  mace,  a  tablespoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  half  ditto  of  essence 
of  anchovies;  let  boil  quickly  for  ten  minutes,  skim  it  well, 
add  a  gill  of  cream,  if  handy,  strain  through  a  hair  sieve  over 
the  oysters  and  serve. 

The  Fisherman's  Soup. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  and 
when  melted  add  six  ounces  of  flour,  stir  well  together  over  a 
slow  fire  a  few  minutes;  when  cool,  add  one  quart  of  milk, 
and  two  quarts  of  stock;  stir  over  a  fire  until  boiling;  having 
previously  filleted  two  soles,  add  the  bones  and  trimmings  to 
the  soup,  with  four  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  two  bayleaves, 
one  spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  one  ditto  of  Harvey 
sauce,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  a  little  sugar  and  salt 
if  required;  let  the  whole  boil  quickly  for  ten  minutes,  keep- 
ing it  well  skimmed,  cut  each  fillet  of  sole  into  six  pieces,  put 
them  into  another  stewpan,  with  half  a  handful  of  picked 
parsley,  pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over  the  fillets, 
boil  again  ten  minutes,  add  a  gill  of  cream  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve. 

Game  Soup. 

Take  any  odds  and  ends  of  game,  rabbit,  or  poultry,  with  a 
calf's  foot  cut  small,  two  ounces  of  chopped  ham,  two  car- 
rots, one  onion,  a  little  mace,  and  herbs  to  taste,  and  cook  the 
whole  gently  for  three  hours  in  two  quarts  of  water.  After 
straining,  clarify  the  soup  with  white  of  egg.  Add  a  glass  of 
sherry,  a  sliced  lemon,  a  sliced  hard-boiled  egg,  and  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  27 

Consomme  Castellane. 

Prepare  a  quart  of  game  consomme,  flavored  with  a  fumet 
of  woodcock;  two  baba-molds  of  royale,  two-thirds  of  which 
consist  of  a  puree  of  woodcock  and  one-third  of  lentils,  with 
the  half  of  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  chopped  and  thick- 
ened. 

Cut  into  slices  of  one-inch  in  length  and  a  half-inch  in  thick- 
ness. Put  into  the  tureen,  together  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
a  julienne  of  roast  woodcock  fillets,  then  pour  over  the  boiling 
game  consomme. 

Hare  Soup. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  and,  when  melted, 
add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and  half  a  pound  of 
streaked  bacon,  cut  into  very  small  pieces;  keep  stirring  over 
the  fire  until  becoming  lightly  browned.  You  have  previously 
cut  up  a  hare  into  neat  smallish  pieces;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  keep  stirring  round  over  the  fire  until  they  are  set; 
then  fill  it  up  with  five  quarts  of  water;  add  two  onions,  a 
head  of  celery,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  four  cloves;  when  boiling,  season  with 
one  ounce  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  and  let  it  simmer  until 
the  pieces  of  hare  are  done,  which  would  be  in  about  an  hour 
if  a  young  hare,  but  double  that  time  if  a  very  old  one;  the 
better  plan  is  to  try  a  piece  occasionally.  When  done,  take 
out  the  best  pieces,  and  the  meat  of  the  inferior  ones  pound 
in  a  mortar,  remove  the  bones,  put  it  back  in  the  soup,  and 
pass  all  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  again  into  a  stewpan,  boil 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve.  The  above  quantity  would  be  suffi- 
cient for  two  tureens.  A  glass  of  wine  may  be  added.  Rab- 
bit, pheasant,  grouse,  partridge,  and  other  game  soups,  may  be 
made  in  the  same  way. 

Rabbit  Soup. 

Take  the  bones  and  odds  and  ends  of  a  good  rabbit  —  or 
two  if  there  is  not  much  meat  left  —  and  fry  them  in  one  ounce 
of  butter  with  a  sliced  carrot  and  turnip,  three  minced  onions, 
two  cloves,  and  spices  to  taste.  Add  the  whole  to  a  quart  of 
beef  stock  and  simmer  for  two  hours,  after  which  strain  out  the 
bones  and  pass  the  rest  through  a  sieve.  Just  before  serving 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  port  wine  and  a  dozen  forcemeat  balls 
previously  poached  in  stock. 

Consomme  Diplomate. 
Roll  into   small  sausage-form  six  ounces   of  chicken  force- 


28  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

meat,  finished  with  crayfish  butter.  Poach  the  sausages,  cut 
them  into  thin  roundels,  and  put  them  into  the  soup-tureen, 
with  one  dessertspoonful  of  black  truffle,  cut  in  julienne. 

Pour  over  this  garnish  two  quarts  of  boiling  consomme, 
thickened  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  poached  tapioca. 

Consomme  Florentine. 

Make  twenty-four  small  quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat.  To 
the  forcemeat  of  half  of  these  quenelles  add  some  very  finely 
chopped  tongue,  and  to  the  remaining  add  some  very  reduced 
spinach  puree. 

Poach  the  quenelles;  put  them  in  the  soup-tureen  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  very  green,  cooked  peas. 

Pour  one  quart  of  very  clear,  boiling  consomme  over  this 
garnish,  and  add  a  pinch  of  chervil  pluches. 

Jacqueline  Soup. 

Beat  up  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  cupful  of  milk  and 
blend  with  it  an  ounce  of  flour  over  the  fire;  but  be  careful 
that  it  does  not  become  too  thick.  Next  add  about  a  quart 
and  a  half  of  boiling  hot  chicken  broth  and  flavor  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  a  little  minced  parsley.  After  stirring  well,  strain 
the  whole,  and  just  before  serving  add  a  tablespoonful  each  of 
boiled  rice,  cooked  green  peas,  sliced  carrots,  and  chopped 
asparagus. 

Pigeon   Broth. 

Remove  the  meat  from  four  freshly  roasted  pigeons  and 
put  the  bones  and  gravy  with  a  quart  of  stock  to  simmer  by  the 
fire.  Mince  the  meat  of  the  pigeons  with  a  medium-sized  onion 
and  blend  thoroughly  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  one  pound 
of  breadcrumbs  well  moistened  with  milk.  Add  this  to  the 
stock  and  let  the  whole  cook  gently  for  an  hour. 

Press  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  add  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  either  port  or  sherry.  Slices  of 
toasted  bread  should  be  served  with  this  soup. 

Duck  Soup. 

Take  two  cupfuls  of  the  remains  of  cold  roast  duck  and 
mince  with  an  ounce  of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  and  a  little  thyme. 
Fry  these  in  an  ounce  of  butter  and  then  add  a  quart  of  beef 
stock  thickened  with  an  ounce  of  flour,  and  stir  in  half  a  pint 
of  white  wine.  Cider  may  be  substituted  if  not  too  sharp. 

Simmer  the  soup  for  an  hour  and  then  rub  the  whole  through 
a  sieve.  Next  add  a  sliced  green  pepper  fried  in  butter,  a 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  29 

cupful  of  boiled  barley,  a  few  pieces  of  duck  meat,  and  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.     Make  the  whole  very  hot  before  serving. 

Pigeon  Soup. 

Thoroughly  mix  an  ounce  of  butter  with  six  ounces  of  flour, 
add  one  ounce  of  chopped  ham  and  place  in  two  quarts  of  clear 
soup  together  with  three  pigeons  previously  cut  up  and  fried 
in  butter.  Flavor  with  thyme,  parsley,  celery,  one  leek,  and  a 
bay  leaf.  After  cooking  for  one  hour  strain  the  soup,  cut  the 
meat  into  small  dice,  and  replace.  Add  a  cupful  of  cooked 
green  peas,  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  and  sliced  carrots,  a 
glass  of  white  wine  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 

Pectoral  Broth. 

This  is  a  convent  soup  greatly  in  repute  with  invalid  nuns. 

Cut  an  old  fowl  into  joints  and  put  them,  together  with  the 
heart,  gizzard,  and  liver,  into  two  quarts  of  water,  to  which 
add  two  cups  of  barley,  three  onions,  a  carrot,  a  small  bunch 
of  thyme,  parsley,  and  marjoram,  and  —  if  obtainable  —  a 
small  handful  of  marshmallow  root.  Let  the  whole  simmer 
gently  for  three  hours,  after  which  strain  the  broth  and  press 
the  barley  through  a  sieve.  Add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  the 
yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy.  The  whole 
should  be  reduced  to  about  a  quart,  and  will  be  found  very 
nourishing. 

Lentil  Soup. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  French  beans,  two  onions,  two  turnips, 
two  carrots,  and  a  leek,  all  sliced,  with  a  cupful  of  spinach,  a 
little  celery,  and  some  parsley,  and  fry  the  whole  with  two 
ounces  of  butter.  Add  the  vegetables  to  three  pints  of  milk, 
with  which  an  ounce  of  flour  has  been  mixed,  a  pint  of  stewed 
tomatoes,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  pinch  of  baking  soda.  After 
simmering  for  two  hours  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  add 
a  little  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  cooked  rice.  Serve  very  hot. 

Lentil  Soup.    (Another  Method.) 

Cut  three  onions,  a  turnip,  and  the  half  of  a  carrot  into 
very  thin  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
and  two  bay-leaves,  add  also  two  pounds  of  leg  of  beef,  cut 
into  small  dice;  set  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  until  its  contents  are  fried  rather  brown,  when 
add  one  quart  of  lentils,  and  three  quarts  of  water;  let  the 


30  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

whole  simmer  until  the  lentils  are  very  tender,  when  season 
with  nearly  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  half  that  quantity  of  sugar; 
it  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

To  make  a  puree  of  lentils :  —  When  the  soup  is  made,  strain 
off  the  broth,  add  a  good  spoonful  of  flour  to  the  lentils,  which 
mash  with  a  wooden  spoon  against  the  side  of  the  stewpan; 
then  again  put  in  the  broth,  boil  all  up  together,  keeping  it 
stirred  with  a  spoon;  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  again 
boil  and  skim,  and  it  is  ready;  serve  with  a  few  croutons 
of  bread,  as  directed  for  Palestine  Soup. 

Haricot  Soup. 

Boil  until  tender  one  pound  of  haricot  beans,  and  then  add 
one  finely  shredded  cabbage,  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  a  red  chili, 
and  a  little  salt.  Let  the  whole  boil  steadily  for  an  hour,  then 
add  an  onion  sliced  and  fried  in  butter,  with  just  a  suspicion 
of  garlic.  The  soup  should  be  stirred  frequently  while  cook- 
ing. 

Neapolitan  Soup. 

Bring  three  pints  of  strong  stock  to  the  boil,  and  stir  in  two 
ounces  of  semolina  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  letting  the 
whole  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Now  beat  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs  with  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese 
and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Add  these  to  the  soup 
and  stir  over  the  fire  till  the  whole  is  blended;  but  be  very 
careful  that  it  does  not  boil,  or  the  eggs  will  curdle. 

If  a  little  cream  is  added,  just  before  serving,  the  soup  will 
be  improved. 

Macaroni  Soup. 

Place  ten  ounces  of  macaroni,  with  two  ounces  of  butter 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  for  half-an-hour.  After  draining  the  macaroni  cut 
it  into  half-inch  lengths,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  more  in  two 
quarts  of  chicken  broth.  Let  it  cool  a  little  and  then  add  care- 
fully half  a  pint  of  cream,  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and 
two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Stir  over  the  fire  for 
three  minutes  longer  and  then  serve. 

Barley  Soup. 

Cook  together  two  ounces  of  barley,  two  carrots,  and  two 
onions  sliced,  with  a  little  parsley  and  any  other  herbs  that 
are  liked,  in  two  quarts  of  white  stock  for  three  hours.  Now 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  31 

stir  in  carefully  the  yolks   of  two  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  hot 
milk,  and  press  the  whole  through  a  sieve. 

Before  serving  add  a  cupful  of  cooked  green  peas  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt. 

Consomme  Brunoise. 

Cut  into  small  dice  the  red  part  only  of  two  carrots,  one 
small  turnip,  the  heads  of  two  leeks,  a  small  stick  of  celery 
and  a  third  of  an  onion  of  medium  size.  Season  the  vegetables 
moderately  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  stew  them  in 
butter  for  thirty  minutes  slowly.  Then  moisten  with  half  a 
pint  of  consomme,  and  finish  cooking  gently. 

Five  minutes  before  serving  put  in  one  quart  of  boiling  or- 
dinary consomme,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  very  green  peas. 
Then  pour  into  the  soup-tureen,  adding  a  pinch  of  fine  chervil 
pluches. 

Consomme  Rachel. 

Prepare  one  quart  of  consomme,  and  thicken  it  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  poached  tapioca  strained  through  muslin. 
With  a  round  cutter,  stamp  out  a  few  roundels  of  crumbs  of 
bread  the  size  of  pennies  and  one-half  inch  thick.  Poach  in 
consomme  as  many  slices  of  very  fresh  beef-marrow  as  there 
are  roundels  of  bread. 

Six  minutes  before  serving,  fry  the  roundels  of  bread  in 
clarified  butter,  hollow  out  their  centers,  and  place  on  each  a 
slice  of  poached  beef-marrow  suitably  trimmed. 

Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  a  julienne  into  the  soup-tureen, 
pour  thereon  the  thickened  consomme.  Serve  separately  the 
roundels  of  bread  garnished  with  marrow. 

Consomme  Aux  Diablotins. 

Cut  a  French  roll  into  twelve  slices  one-quarter  inch  thick. 
Reduce  about  one-quarter  pint  of  Bechamel  *  to  a  thick  con- 
sistence; add  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Gruyere 
cheese,  and  season  with  a  little  cayenne. 

Garnish  the  slices  of  soup  "  flute "  with  this  preparation, 
arranged  upon  a  tray,  and  set  it  to  glaze  a  few  minutes  before 
serving. 

Pour  one  quart  of  consomme  into  the  soup-tureen  and  add 
the  diablotins. 

Vermicelli  Soup. 
Put  a  quart  of  clear  stock  into  a  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  and 

*  See  page  38. 


32  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

when  boiling,   add   two  ounces   of  vermicelli;   boil  gently  ten 
minutes,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Italian  Paste  Soup. 

Procure  some  small  Italian  paste,  in  stars,  rings,  or  any 
otfier  shape,  but  small;  put  on  a  quart  of  stock,  and  when  boil- 
ing, add  two  ounces  of  the  paste ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  or  rather 
more,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Semolina  Soup. 

Take  one  quart  of  stock,  and  when  boiling  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  semolina;  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  it  is  then  done. 
Proceed  the  same  also  with  tapioca  and  sago. 

Macaroni  Soup. 

Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  in  a  quart  of  water 
for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  it  off,  and  throw  it  into  two  quarts 
of  boiling  stock;  let  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  when 
serve  with  grated  cheese,  separately. 

Rice  Soup. 

Wash  well  two  ounces  of  the  best  Patna  rice,  strain  off  the 
water,  put  the  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  cold  stock, 
place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  let  simmer  about  half  an  hour,  until 
the  rice  is  very  tender,  but  not  in  pulp. 

Chestnut  Soup. 

Boil  about  a  quart  of  large  chestnuts  for  twenty  minutes  in 
salted  water,  then  peel  them  and  chop  fine.  Place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water,  the  thinly  pared  rind  of  a 
lemon  and  a  tablespoonful  each  of  sugar  and  salt.  Cook  gently 
for  half  an  hour  and  then  rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Now  put  the  soup  back  in  the  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of 
good  white  stock,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  pars- 
ley and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  very  gently  for  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  the  soup  constantly,  and  then  pass  it  again  through 
a  sieve. 

Sippets  of  dry  toast  should  be  served  with  this  soup. 

Chestnut  Soup.     (Another  Method.) 

Throw  about  fifty  chestnuts  into  boiling  water  for  a  few 
minutes  and  then  peel  carefully.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
just  sufficient  veal  or  other  stock  to  cover  them,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg  to  taste, 
and  cook  for  two  hours.  Now  add  hot  milk  in  the  proportion 
of  a  pint  to  each  quart  of  the  soup.  Press  the  whole  through 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  :3 

a  sieve,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry  and  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  and  serve  hot  with  croutons  of  toasted  or  fried  bread. 

Chlodnik. 

Boil  a  quantity  of  rhubarb  in  water  without  sugar  so  as  to 
make  a  strong  and  very  sour  liquor.  To  one  quart  of  the 
hot  liquor  add  four  cooked  beetroots  cut  in  thick  slices,  two 
small  pickled  cucumbers  cut  into  dice,  the  meat  of  two  small 
or  one  moderately  large  crab  minced  finely  and  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices.  Simmer  the  whole  gently  for  half 
an  hour,  then  let  it  cool,  and  beat  into  it  a  pint  of  good  sour 
cream,  after  which  rub  the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  set  it 
upon  the  ice  and  serve  cold. 

Pumpkin  Soup. 

For  this  is  needed  a  large  ripe  pumpkin  weighing  about  a 
pound  and  a  half;  but  an  excellent  substitute  can  be  made 
with  a  thoroughly  ripe  vegetable  marrow,  which  should  be  of 
a  deep  golden  color. 

Peel  and  cut  it  into  thick  slices,  carefully  removing  the  seeds, 
and  place  in  a  stewpan,  adding  sufficient  water  to  cover. 
Sprinkle  with  a  little  salt  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five  minutes, 
after  which  pour  away  the  water  and  pass  the  pumpkin  through 
a  sieve.  Next  add  the  pulp  to  two  ounces  of  butter,  pre- 
viously melted  in  a  stewpan,  and  stir  for  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore adding  a  pint  of  clear  stock,  boiling  hot. 

Now  soak  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  stale  bread-crumbs  in 
a  pint  of  milk,  add  a  small  sliced  onion  and  a  gill  of  water, 
bring  the  whole  to  boiling  point  and  add  it  to  the  soup,  which 
should  now  be  allowed  to  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes. 
It  will  be  necessary  to  stir  it  from  time  to  time,  and  to  remove 
any  scum  that  may  appear.  A  couple  of  bay  leaves  will  im- 
prove the  flavor. 

After  twenty  minutes,  strain  the  soup  through  a  colander,  add 
a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  let  it  boil 
gently  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Now  place  in  a  soup-tureen 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  moderately  with  a  little  milk,  and 
into  this  pour  the  soup,  stirring  all  the  while. 

Sippets  of  fried  bread  should  be  served  with  it. 

Blackberry  Soup. 

Melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  an  enameled  saucepan  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  becomes 
slightly  browned.  Now  pour  in  slowly  two  pints  of  water  and 


34  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

add  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  carefully  picked  blackberries  with 
four  cloves.  Simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  pass 
the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  in  order  to  remove  the  seeds 
from  the  blackberries.  Now  add  a  generous  glass  of  port  and 
a  few  fine  blackberries.  Heat  the  soup  again  till  the  black- 
berries are  cooked,  which  will  only  take  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  serve  in  a  soup-tureen. 

Fruit  soups  of  this  character  are  very  popular  in  Germany, 
and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  make  them  at  all  too  sweet. 
If  necessary,  a  little  lemon  juice  can  be  added  at  the  table,  as 
most  people  prefer  these  soups  a  little  sharp. 

Lemon  Soup. 

This  very  attractive  soup  is  made  from  a  very  old  recipe, 
and  has  only  to  be  tried  to  be  appreciated. 

Chop  together  a  little  cold  chicken  with  some  bread  crumbs 
and  herbs  and  make  it  into  forcemeat  balls  with  the  yolk  of 
an  egg.  Poach  these  in  a  quart  and  a  half  of  chicken  broth. 
Take  them  out  and  thicken  the  soup  with  half  a  cupful  of 
cream  or  milk  beaten  up  with  three  eggs,  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  little  nutmeg,  and  pepper  and  salt.  Replace  the  forcemeat 
balls  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast. 

Consomme  Colombine. 

Prepare  a  good  tablespoonful  of  carrot  pearls  and  one  of 
turnip  pearls,  keeping  the  latter  very  white.  Cook  them  in  the 
ordinary  way,  and  put  them  in  the  soup-tureen  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  very  green  peas,  one  tablespoonful  of  a  julienne  of 
roast  pigeon  fillets,  and  six  poached  pigeons'  eggs,  which  latter 
should  be  sent  to  the  table  in  a  timbale  at  the  same  time  as  the 
consomme. 

Pour  over  the  other  garnish  one  quart  of  very  clear  boiling 
chicken  consomme  and  serve  at  once. 

This  soup  can  only  appear  on  menus  when  pigeon's  eggs 
are  in  season. 

Cheese  Soup. 

Fry  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  minced  ham  and  six  sliced 
onions  in  two  ounces  of  butter.  Mix  with  half  a  pound  of 
bread  crumbs  and  mix  the  whole  in  three  pints  of  chicken 
broth  or  other  white  stock,  flavoring  with  mace,  pepper  and 
salt.  After  cooking  for  half  an  hour  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  Parmesan  cheese.  Press 
through  a  sieve  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  35 

Egg  Soup. 

Take  six  slices  of  stale  bread  and  sprinkle  them  on  both 
sides  with  sugar  before  placing  them  in  the  oven  to  brown. 
Mix  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  one  ounce  of  butter  with  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  add  it  to  a  pint  of  white  stock  flavored 
with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  chopped  parsley.  Pour  the 
whole  over  the  slices  of  toast,  and  keep  it  hot  for  ten  minutes 
before  serving. 


36  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


SAUCES. 

The  Roux. 

Three  kinds  of  roux  are  used  —  brown  roux,  for  brown 
sauces;  pale  roux,  for  veloutes,  or  cream  sauces;  and  white 
roux  for  white  sauces  and  Bechamel. 

Brown  Roux. 

QUANTITIES  FOR  MAKING  ABOUT  ONE  POUND. —  Eight  ounces 
of  clarified  butter,  nine  ounces  of  best  quality  flour. 

PREPARATION. —  Mix  the  flour  and  butter  in  a  very  thick 
stewpan,  and  put  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  or  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Stir  the  mixture  repeatedly  so  that  the  heat  may  be 
evenly  distributed  throughout  the  whole. 

The  time  allowed  for  the  cooking  of  brown  roux  cannot  be 
precisely  determined,  as  it  depends  upon  the  degree  of  heat 
employed.  The  more  intense  the  latter,  the  speedier  will  be  the 
cooking,  while  the  stirring  will  of  necessity  be  more  rapid. 
Brown  roux  is  known  to  be  cooked  when  it  has  acquired  a 
fine,  light  brown  color,  and  when  it  exudes  a  scent  resembling 
that  of  the  hazel-nut,  characteristic  of  baked  flour. 

Pale  Roux. 

The  quantities  are  the  same  as  for  brown  roux,  but  cooking 
must  cease  as  soon  as  the  color  of  the  roux  begins  to  change, 
and  before  the  appearance  of  any  coloring  whatsoever. 

The  observations  made  relative  to  brown  roux,  concerning 
the  coloring  element,  apply  also  to  pale  roux. 

White  Roux. 

Use  the  same  quantities  as  for  brown  and  pale  roux,  but 
limit  the  time  of  cooking  to  a  few  minutes,  as  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  do  away  with  the  disagreeable  taste  of  raw  flour  which 
is  typical  of  those  sauces  whose  roux  has  not  been  suffi- 
ciently cooked. 

Brown  Sauce  or  Espagnole. 

To  MAKE  FOUR  QUARTS. —  Take  one  pound  of  brown  roux 
dissolved  in  a  tall,  thick  saucepan  with  six  quarts  of  brown 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  37 

stock.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  the  sauce  with 
a  spatula  or  a  whisk  until  it  begins  to  boil.  Then  remove  the 
spatula,  and  put  the  saucepan  on  a  corner  of  the  fire,  letting 
it  lean  slightly  to  one  side  with  the  help  of  a  wedge,  so  that 
boiling  may  only  take  place  at  one  point,  and  the  scum  be  easily 
removed  as  it  collects. 

During  despumation  change  saucepans  twice  or  even  three 
times,  straining  every  time,  and  adding  a  quart  of  brown  stock 
to  replace  what  has  evaporated.  At  length,  when  the  sauce 
begins  to  get  lighter,  and  about  two  hours  before  finally  strain- 
ing it,  add  two  pounds  of  fresh  tomatoes,  roughly  cut  up,  or  an 
equivalent  quantity  of  preserved  tomatoes,  and  about  one  pound 
of  Mirepoix.  The  sauce  is  then  reduced  so  as  to  measure  four 
quarts  when  strained,  after  which  it  is  poured  into  a  wide 
tureen,  and  must  be  kept  in  motion  until  quite  cool  lest  a  skin 
should  form  on  its  surface.  Remember:  — 

1.  Only   to   use   strong,   clear   stock  with   a   decided  taste, 
and 

2.  Be  very  careful  of  the  roux,  however  it  may  be  made. 
By  following  these  two  rules,  a  clear,  brilliant,  and  consistent 
Espagnole  will  always  be  obtained  in  a  fairly  short  time. 

Half  Glaze. 

This  is  the  Espagnole  sauce,  having  reached  the  limit  of 
perfection  by  final  despumation.  It  is  obtained  by  reducing 
one  quart  of  Espagnole  and  one  quart  of  first-class  brown  stock 
until  its  volume  is  reduced  to  nine-tenths  of  a  quart,  it  is  then 
put  through  a  strainer  into  a  bain-marie  of  convenient  dimen- 
sions, and  it  is  finished,  away  from  the  fire,  with  one-tenth  of  a 
quart  of  excellent  sherry.  Cover  the  bain-marie,  or  slightly 
butter  the  top  to  avoid  the  formation  of  a  skin.  This  sauce 
is  the  base  of  all  the  smaller  brown  sauces. 

Veloute  Sauce. 

QUANTITIES  REQUIRED  FOR  FOUR  QUARTS. —  One  pound  of 
pale  roux,  five  quarts  of  white  veal  stock. 

Dissolve  the  roux  in  the  cold  veal  stock  and  put  the  sauce- 
pan containing  this  mixture  on  the  fire,  stirring  the  sauce  with 
a  spatula  or  whisk,  so  as  to  avoid  its  burning  at  the  bottom. 
Add  one  ounce  of  table-salt,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  and  white 
powdered  pepper,  together  with  quarter  pound  of  white  mush- 
room parings,  if  available.  Now  boil  and  move  to  a  corner  of 
the  fire  to  despumate  slowly  for  one  and  a  half  hours,  at  the 
same  time  observing  the  precautions  advised  for  ordinary  Es- 


38  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

pagnole.  Strain  through  muslin  into  a  smaller  saucepan,  add 
one  pint  of  white  stock,  and  despumate  for  another  half  hour. 
Strain  it  again  through  a  sieve  into  a  wide  tureen,  and  keep 
moving  it  with  a  spatula  until  it  is  quite  cold. 

Veloute  de  Volaille. 

This  is  identical  with  ordinary  veloute,  except  that  instead 
of  having  white  veal  stock  for  its  liquor,  it  is  diluted  with  white 
poultry  stock.  The  mode  of  procedure  and  the  time  allowed 
for  cooking  are  the  same. 

Fish  Veloute. 

Veloute  is  the  base  of  various  fish  sauces. 

Prepare  it  in  precisely  the  same  way  as  poultry  veloute,  but 
instead  of  using  poultry  stock,  use  very  clear  fish  fumet,  and 
let  it  despumate  for  twenty  minutes  only. 

To  MAKE  ONE  QUART. —  Procure  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  one 
pint  of  cold  white  stock,  one  quart  of  veloute,  well  despumated, 
half  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  quarter  pint  of  mushroom  liquor. 

Put  the  various  ingredients  in  a  thick-bottomed  saucepan  and 
mix  carefully.  Put  the  pan  on  open  fire,  and  stir  the  sauce 
with  a  metal  spatula  to  prevent  burning.  When  the  sauce  has 
been  reduced  to  about  one  quart,  add  one-third  pint  of  fresh 
cream  and  reduce  further  for  a  few  minutes.  Then  pass 
through  a  fine  strainer  into  a  tureen  and  keep  moving  until 
quite  cold. 

Bechamel  Sauce. 

To  MAKE  FOUR  QUARTS. — Procure  one  pound  of  white  roux, 
four  and  a  half  quarts  of  boiling  milk,  half  pound  of  lean  veal, 
two-thirds  of  an  ounce  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  mignonette,  and 
grated  nutmeg,  and  one  small  sprig  of  thyme;  one  minced 
onion. 

Pour  the  boiling  milk  on  the  roux,  which  should  be  almost 
cold,  and  whisk  it  well  to  avoid  lumps.  Let  it  boil,  then  cook 
at  the  side  of  the  fire.  Cut  the  lean  veal  into  small  cubes,  and 
fry  with  butter  in  a  saucepan,  together  with  the  minced  onion. 
When  the  veal  has  stiffened,  without  becoming  colored,  it 
should  be  added  to  the  Bechamel,  together  with  salt  and  other 
seasonings.  Let  the  sauce  stew  for  about  one  hour  in  all,  and 
then  pass  through  a  sieve  into  a  tureen;  butter  the  top,  lest  a 
crust  should  form. 

When  Bechamel  is  intended  for  Lenten  preparations  omit  the 
veal. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  39 

Tomato  Sauce. 

To  MAKE  FOUR  QUARTS. — Take  five  ounces  of  fat  salted 
breast  of  pork,  six  ounces  of  carrots  cut  into  cubes,  six  ounces 
of  onions  cut  into  cubes,  one  bouquet  garni,  five  ounces  of  flour, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  half  ounce  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  sugar, 
a  pinch  of  pepper;  ten  pounds  of  raw  tomatoes  or  four  quarts 
of  same  mashed;  two  quarts  of  white  stock. 

Fry  the  pork  together  with  the  butter  in  a  tall,  thick-bottomed 
saucepan.  When  the  pork  is  nearly  melted,  add  the  carrots, 
onions,  and  aromatics.  Cook  and  stir  the  vegetables,  then  add 
the  flour,  which  should  cook  until  it  begins  to  brown.  Now  put 
in  the  tomatoes  and  white  stock,  mix  well,  and  set  to  boil  on 
an  open  fire.  Now  add  the  seasoning  and  a  crushed  clove  of 
garlic,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  allow  to  simmer  for  one  and 
one-half  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  pass  the  sauce  through 
a  sieve  and  bring  to  boil,  continually  stirring.  Finally,  pour 
it  into  a  tureen,  and  butter  its  surface  to  avoid  the  formation 
of  a  skin. 

Sauce  Hollandaise. 

To  MAKE  ONE  QUART. — Procure  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
butter,  and  yolks  of  six  eggs,  one  pinch  of  mignonette  pepper 
and  one-quarter  ounce  of  salt,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  good 
vinegar. 

Put  the  salt,  the  mignonette,  the  vinegar,  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  reduce  by  three- 
quarters  on  the  fire.  Move  the  saucepan  to  side  of  the  fire  and 
add  a  spoonful  of  fresh  water  and  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Work 
the  whole  with  a  whisk  until  the  yolks  thicken  and  have  the 
consistence  of  cream.  Then  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  tepid 
place  and  gradually  pour  the  butter  on  the  yolks  stirring  briskly 
the  while.  When  the  butter  is  absorbed,  the  sauce  should  be 
thick  and  firm.  It  is  brought  to  the  correct  consistence  with 
a  little  water,  which  also  lightens  it  slightly,  but  the  addition 
of  water  is  optional.  The  sauce  is  completed  by  a  drop  of 
lemon  juice,  and  it  is  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 

Sauce  Bordelaise. 

Put  into  a  vegetable-pan  two  ounces  of  very  finely  minced 
shallots,  one-half  pint  of  good  red  wine,  a  pinch  of  mignonette 
pepper,  and  bits  of  thyme  and  bay.  Reduce  the  wine  by  three- 
quarters,  and  add  one-half  pint  of  half-glaze.  Keep  the  sauce 
simmering  for  half  an  hour;  remove  the  scum  from  time  to 
time,  and  strain  it  through  linen  or  a  sieve.  When  dishing  it 


40  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

up,  finish  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  dissolved  meat  glaze, 
a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  four  ounces  of  beef-marrow, 
cut  into  slices  or  cubes  and  poached  in  slightly  salted  boiling 
water.  Butter  may  be  added  to  the  extent  of  about  three 
ounces  per  pint,  which  makes  it  smoother,  but  less  clear.  It 
is  especially  suitable  for  grilled  butcher's  meat. 

Chasseur  Sauce. 

Peel  and  mince  six  medium-sized  mushrooms.  Heat  one- 
half  ounce  of  butter  and  as  much  olive  oil  in  a  vegetable-pan; 
put  in  the  mushrooms,  and  fry  until  they  are  slightly  browned. 
Now  add  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  shallots,  and  remove  half  the 
butter;  pour  one-half  pint  of  white  wine  and  one  glass  of 
liquor  brandy  into  the  stewpan;  reduce  this  liquid  to  half,  and 
finish  the  sauce  with  one  half-pint  of  half-glaze,  one-quarter 
pint  of  tomato  sauce,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  meat-glaze.  Set 
to  boil  for  five  minutes  more,  and  complete  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley. 

Brown  Chaud-Froid  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  half-glaze  and  one-fifth 
pint  of  truffle  essence.  Put  the  pan  on  an  open  fire,  and  re- 
duce its  contents;  while  making  same  absorb  one  and  one-hali 
pints  of  jelly  —  the  latter  being  added  to  the  sauce  in  small 
quantities.  Reduce  the  sauce  by  one-third  and  after  the  re- 
duction, carefully  taste,  and  rectify  the  seasoning  if  necessary; 
mix  a  little  Madeira  or  port  with  the  sauce,  away  from  the 
fire,  and  strain  through  muslin  or  through  a  venetian-hair 
sieve.  Stir  the  sauce  now  and  then  while  it  cools,  until  it  is 
sufficiently  liquid,  and  at  the  same  time  consistent  enough  to 
coat  immersed  solids  evenly  with  a  film  of  sauce. 

Varieties  of  the  Chaud-Froid  Sauce. 

FOR  DUCKS. — Prepare  the  sauce  as  directed  above,  adding  to 
it  (for  the  prescribed  quantity)  one-half  pint  of  duck  fumet 
obtained  from  the  carcases  and  remains  of  roast  duckling,  and 
finish  it,  away  from  the  fire,  with  the  juice  of  four  oranges 
and  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  orange  rind,  cut  finely,  julienne- 
fashion,  and  scalded  for  five  minutes. 

FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. —  Prepare  the  sauce  as  directed,  add- 
ing one-half  pint  of  the  fumet  of  the  game  in  order  to  lend 
it  that  game's  characteristic  taste.  Observe  the  same  precau- 
tion for  the  cooling. 

FOR  FISH. — Proceed  as  before  but  substitute  the  Espagnole 
of  fish  for  the  half-glaze;  intensify  the  first  Espagnole  with 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  41 

one-half  pint  of  very  clear  fish  essence;  and  use  Lenten  jelly 
instead  of  meat  jelly. 

Deviled  Sauce. 

Put  in  a  vegetable-pan  two  ounces  of  sliced  shallots  and 
one-third  pint  of  white  wine.  Reduce  the  latter  to  two-thirds, 
season  strongly  with  cayenne  pepper,  and  strain  through  muslin. 
This  sauce  may  be  served  with  grilled  fowls  or  pigeons.  It 
also  forms  an  excellent  accompaniment  to  re-dished  meat. 

Grand- Veneur  Sauce. 

Take  one  pint  of  Poivrade  Sauce  (see  p.  42)  and  boil  it, 
adding  one  pint  of  game  stock;  reduce  the  sauce  by  a  third; 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  red- 
currant  jelly.  When  the  latter  is  well  dissolved,  complete  the 
sauce  by  addition  of  one-quarter  pint  of  cream  per  pint  of 
sauce. 

This  sauce  is  served  with  venison. 
Italian  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  six  tablespoonfuls  of  Duxelles,  two  ounces 
of  very  lean,  cooked  ham,  cut  very  finely,  brunoise-fashion, 
and  one  pint  of  half-glaze  tomatee.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  and 
complete  at  the  moment  of  dishing  up,  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  parsley,  chervil,  and  tarragon,  minced  and  mixed. 

LENTEN  ITALIAN  SAUCE. —  Prepare  as  above  but  omit  the 
ham,  and  substitute  Lent  Espagnole  (combined  with  fish  fumet 
made  from  the  fish  for  which  the  sauce  is  intended)  for  half- 
glaze  with  tomatoes. 

Thickened  Gravy. 

Boil  one  pint  of  poultry  or  veal  stock  (according  to  the 
nature  of  the  dish  the  gravy  is  intended  for).  Thicken  by 
means  of  three-quarters  ounce  of  fecule,  diluted  cold,  with  a 
little  water  or  gravy,  and  pour  this  into  the  boiling  gravy, 
being  careful  to  stir  briskly. 

Veal  Gravy  Tomate. 

Add  to  one  pint  of  veal  stock  two  ounces  of  puree  and  one- 
quarter  pint  of  tomato  juice,  and  reduce  by  a  fifth.  Strain  the 
gravy  through  linen.  This  gravy  is  served  with  meat. 

Lyonnaise  Sauce. 

Finely  mince  two  ounces  of  onions  and  brown  them  slightly 
in  two  ounces  of  butter.  Moisten  with  one-quarter  pint  of 
white  wine  and  the  same  quantity  of  vinegar;  almost  entirely 
reduce  the  liquid;  add  one  and  one-half  pints  of  clear  half-glaze, 


42  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and    set    to    cook    slowly    for    half-an-hour.     Rub    the    sauce 
through  a  sieve. 

The  onion  may  be  left  in  the  sauce  or  not,  according  to 
taste. 

Madeira  Sauce. 

Put  one  and  a  half  pints  of  half-glaze  into  a  saucepan  and 
reduce  on  a  brisk  fire  to  a  stiff  consistence.  Take  it  off  the 
fire  and  add  one-fifth  pint  of  Madeira  to  it,  bringing  it  back 
to  its  normal  consistence.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  and  keep  warm 
without  allowing  it  to  boil. 

Marrow  Sauce. 

Follow  the  proportions  as  given  for  "  Sauce  Bordelaise,"  the 
Marrow  Sauce  being  only  a  variety  of  Bordelaise.  Finish  it 
with  six  ounces  per  quart  of  beef  marrow,  cut  into  cubes, 
poached  and  well  drained,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  blanched.  If  the  sauce  is  to  accompany  vegetables 
finish  it,  away  from  the  fire,  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  and 
then  add  the  cubes  of  marrow  and  the  parsley. 

Pignons   Sauce. 

Take  the  necessary  amount  of  Poivrade  Sauce  (see  p.  43) 
and  let  it  boil.  To  make  one  pint  of  sauce,  prepare  an  in- 
fusion of  juniper  berries,  with  a  gill  of  water  and  two  ounces 
of  concassed  berries ;  one  ounce  of  grilled  fir-apple  kernels,  and 
one  ounce  of  raisins,  stoned,  washed,  and  left  to  soak  in  tepid 
water  for  an  hour.  Finish  the  sauce,  when  dishing  up,  by  add- 
ing the  infusion  of  juniper  berries  strained  through  linen,  the 
grilled  kernels,  the  soaked  raisins,  and  half  a  gill  of  Madeira 
wine. 

This  sauce  is  served  with  joints  of  venison. 

Perizueux  Sauce. 

Prepare  a  Madeira  Sauce  as  above,  and  add  to  the  half-glaze, 
to  be  reduced,  half  its  volume  of  very  strong  veal  stock,  and 
keep  it  a  little  thicker  than  usual.  Finish  this  sauce  by  adding 
one-sixth  of  a  pint  of  truffle  essence  and  three  ounces  of 
chopped  truffles  per  quart  of  Madeira  Sauce.  It  may  be  served 
with  small  entrees,  timbales,  etc.,  etc. 

Sauce   Piquante. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  minced  shallots,  a  gill  each 
of  vinegar  and  white  wine.  Reduce  the  liquid  by  half,  and 
add  one  pint  of  half-glaze;  set  the  sauce  to  boil,  and  remove 
scum  for  half  an  hour.  Finish  it,  away  from  the  fire,  with  two 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  43 

ounces  of  gherkins,  one  ounce  of  capers,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
chervil,  parsley,  and  tarragon,  mixed;  all  the  ingredients  to  be 
finely  chopped.  This  may  be  served  with  grilled  or  boiled 
pork,  and  cold  meat  re-dished  and  minced. 

Poivrade  Sauce. 

Heat  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  insert  one 
pound  of  raw  Mirepoix.  Fry  the  vegetables  until  they  are  well 
browned ;  moisten  with  one-quarter  pint  of  vinegar  and  one-half 
pint  of  Marinade,  reduce  to  two-thirds;  add  one  pint  of  Espag- 
nole  Sauce,  and  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Ten 
minutes  before  straining  the  sauce,  but  not  before,  put  in  a 
few  crushed  peppercorns. 

Pass  the  sauce  through  a  strainer,  pressing  the  aromatics; 
add  a  further  one-half  pint  of  Marinade,  and  remove  scum  for 
quarter  of  an  hour,  simmering  the  while.  Strain  again  through 
a  sieve  and  finish  the  sauce,  when  ready  for  serving,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter. 

This  sauce  is  suitable  for  joints  marinaded  or  otherwise. 

Poivrade  Sauce  for  Vension. 

Fry,  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  ounces  of  oil,  one 
pound  of  raw  Mirepoix  to  which  are  added  four  pounds  of 
well-broken  bones  and  ground-game  trimmings.  When  the 
whole  is  well  browned,  drain  the  grease  away,  and  dilute  with 
one  pint  each  of  vinegar  and  white  wine.  Reduce  this  liquid 
by  three-quarters,  then  add  three  quarts  of  game  stock  and  a 
quart  of  Espagnole  Sauce.  Boil,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  put 
at  side  of  fire  for  three  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  pour 
into  a  fine  sieve  placed  over  a  tureen;  press  the  remains  so 
as  to  expel  all  the  sauce  they  hold,  and  pour  the  sauce  into  a 
tall,  thick  saucepan.  Add  enough  game  stock  and  Marinade, 
mixed  in  equal  parts  to  produce  three  quarts  in  all  of  sauce, 
and  gently  reduce  the  latter  while  removing  scum.  As  it 
diminishes  in  volume,  it  should  be  passed  through  muslin  into 
smaller  saucepans,  and  the  reduction  should  be  stopped  when 
only  a  quart  of  sauce  remains. 

Provengale  Sauce. 

Peel,  remove  the  seeds,  and  squeeze  twelve  medium  tomatoes. 
Heat  in  a  saucepan  one-fifth  pint  of  oil,  until  it  begins  to  smoke 
a  little;  insert  the  tomatoes  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt;  add 
a  crushed  garlic  clove,  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  allow  to  melt  gently  for  half 
an  hour. 


44  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Rouennaise  Sauce. 

Prepare  a  "  Bordelaise  "  Sauce  as  previously  described.  The 
diluent  of  this  sauce  must  be  an  excellent  red  wine.  For  one 
pint  of  sauce,  pass  four  raw  duck's  livers  through  a  sieve; 
add  the  resulting  puree  to  the  Bordelaise  and  heat  the  latter 
for  a  few  minutes  in  order  to  poach  the  liver.  Be  careful, 
however,  not  to  heat  the  sauce  too  much  or  too  long,  lest 
the  liver  be  cooked.  Serve  this  sauce  with  duckling  a  la 
Rouennaise. 

Torture  Sauce. 

Boil  one-half  pint  of  veal  stock,  adding  a  small  sprig  each 
of  sage,  sweet  marjoram,  rosemary,  basil,  thyme,  and  bay,  two 
ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  and  one  ounce  of  parsley.  Cover 
and  infuse  for  half  an  hour.  Two  minutes  before  straining 
the  infusion,  add  four  crushed  peppercorns. 

After  straining  through  fine  linen,  add  one-half  pint  each  of 
half-glaze  and  tomato  sauce  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry, 
a  little  truffle,  essence,  and  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Venison  Sauce. 

Prepare  a  Poivrade  Sauce  for  game,  as  previously  described. 
Finish  this  sauce  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  red-currant  jelly, 
previously  dissolved,  and  mixed  with  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
fresh  cream  per  pint  of  sauce.  The  addition  of  cream  and 
red-currants  must  be  made  away  from  the  fire. 

Bearnaise   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  small  stewpan  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  shallots, 
two  ounces  of  chopped  tarragon  stalks,  three  ounces  of  chervil, 
each  a  pinch  of  mignonette  pepper  and  salt,  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Reduce  the  vinegar  by  two-thirds,  take 
off  the  fire,  let  the  stewpan  cool  a  little,  and  add  the  yolks 
of  five  eggs.  Now  put  the  stewpan  on  a  slow  fire  and  gradu- 
ally combine  with  the  yolks  six  ounces  of  melted  butter.  Whisk 
the  sauce  briskly,  so  as  to  ensure  the  cooking  of  the  yolks, 
which  alone,  by  gradual  cooking,  effect  the  liaison  of  the  sauce. 

When  the  butter  is  combined  with  the  sauce,  rub  the  latter 
through  a  sieve,  and  finish  it  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chervil  par- 
ings and  chopped  tarragon  leaves.  Complete  the  seasoning 
with  a  suspicion  of  cayenne.  This  sauce  should  not  be  served 
very  hot,  as  it  is  really  a  mayonnaise  with  butter.  It  need 
only  be  tepid,  for  it  would  probably  turn  if  it  were  over- 
heated. Serve  with  grilled  butcher's  meat  and  poultry. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  45 

Valois   Sauce. 

Prepare  a  Bearnaise  Sauce  as  previously  explained.  Com- 
plete it  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  dissolved  pale  meat  glaze, 
which  may  be  added  in  small  quantities  at  a  time.  Serve  with 
butcher's  meat. 

Bearnaise  Tomatee   Sauce  or  Choron  Sauce. 

Proceed  as  for  Bearnaise  Sauce.  When  the  sauce  is  made 
and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  finish  it  with  one-third  pint  of  red 
tomato  puree,  but  do  not  add  chervil  and  tarragon. 

This  may  accompany  grilled  poultry  and  white  butcher's 
meat. 

Sauce  Bercy. 

Heat  two  ounces  of  chopped  shallots.  Moisten  with  one- 
half  pint  of  white  wine  and  as  much  fish  fumet,  or,  when 
possible,  the  same  quantity  of  fish  liquor,  the  latter  being 
that  of  a  fish  similar  to  the  one  which  the  sauce  is  to  accom- 
pany. Reduce  to  a  good  third,  add  one-third  pint  of  veloute, 
let  the  sauce  boil  some  time,  and  finish  it,  away  from  the  fire, 
with  four  ounces  of  butter  (added  slowly),  a  few  drops  of 
fish  glaze,  half  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  one  ounce  of  chopped 
parsley. 

Serve  with  medium-sized  poached  fish. 

Butter  Sauce. 

Mix  two  ounces  of  sifted  flour  with  two  ounces  of  melted 
butter.  Dilute  with  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  salted  to  the 
extent  of  one-quarter  ounce  per  quart.  Stir  briskly  to  ensure 
a  perfect  liaison,  and  do  not  allow  to  boil.  Add  immediately 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  mixed  with  one-quarter  pint  of  cream 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  and  finish 
the  sauce  with  five  ounces  of  best  fresh  butter. 

Be  careful  that  the  sauce  does  not  boil  after  it  has  been 
thickened. 

White  Bordelaise  Sauce. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  minced  shallots,  and  one- 
half  pint  of  Graves,  Sauterne,  or  any  other  white  Bordeaux. 
Reduce  the  wine  almost  entirely,  add  one-quarter  pint  of 
veloute,  let  simmer  twenty  minutes  and  rub  through  a  sieve. 
Finish  it,  away  from  the  fire,  with  six  ounces  of  butter  and  a 
little  chopped  tarragon. 

Serve  with  grilled  fish  and  grilled  white  meat. 

Caper  Sauce. 
This  is  a  derivative  of  the  Butter  Sauce  described  previously, 


46  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  needs  only  the  addition  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of   capers 
per  pint  of  sauce.     It  is  served  with  boiled  fish  of  all  kinds. 

Cardinal  Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  Bechamel,  to  which  add  one-half  pint  of 
fish  fumet  and  a  little  truffle  essence,  and  reduce  by  a  quarter. 
Finish  the  sauce,  when  dishing  up,  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream  and  three  ounces  of  red  lobster  butter. 

This  sauce  is  poured  over  the  dish. 

Mushroom  Sauce. 

If  intended  for  poultry,  add  one-fifth  pint  of  mushroom  liquor 
and  eight  ounces  of  button-mushroom  heads  turned  or  chan- 
neled and  cooked,  to  one  pint  of  very  stiff  Allemande  Sauce. 

If  it  be  intended  for  fish,  take  one  pint  of  fish  veloute  thick- 
ened With  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  finish  it  with  mushroom 
liquor,  as  above. 

Chateaubriand  Sauce. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  one  ounce  of  chopped  shallots,  a  sprig  of 
thyme  and  a  bit  of  bay,  one  ounce  of  mushroom  parings,  and 
one-quarter  pint  of  white  wine.  Reduce  the  wine  almost  en- 
tirely, add  one-half  pint  of  veal  gravy,  and  reduce  again  until 
the  liquid  only  measures  a  gill.  Strain  through  muslin,  and 
finish  the  sauce  away  from  the  fire  with  four  ounces  of  butter 
"  Maitre  d'Hotel,"  to  which  add  a  little  chopped  tarragon. 
Serve  with  grilled  fillet  of  beef. 

White   Chaud-Froid   Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  veloute  in  a  stewpan,  and  add  three-quarters 
pint  of  melted  white  poultry  jelly.  Put  the  stewpan  on  an 
open  fire,  reduce  the  sauce  by  a  third,  stirring  constantly  the 
while,  and  gradually  add  one-half  pint  of  very  fresh  cream. 
When  the  sauce  has  reached  the  desired  degree  of  consistency 
rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  stir  it  frequently  while  it  cools,  to 
prevent  a  skin  forming  on  the  surface.  When  dishing  up,  this 
sauce  should  be  cold,  so  that  it  may  properly  coat  immersed 
solids  and  yet  be  liquid  enough  to  admit  of  the  latter  being 
easily  steeped  in  it. 

Chaud-Froid  Sauce,  Au  Vert-Pre. 

Add  to  the  veloute  of  the  white  Chaud-Froid  Sauce,  at  the 
same  time  as  the  jelly,  an  infusion  prepared  thus: — Boil  one 
gill  of  white  wine,  and  add  to  it  one  pinch  each  of  chervil 
stalks,  tarragon  leaves,  chives,  and  parsley  leaves.  Cover,  in- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  47 

fuse  away  from  the  fire  for  ten  minutes  and  strain  through 
linen. 

Treat  the  sauce  as  explained  and  finish  with  spinach-green. 
Take  care  to  keep  the  shade  of  the  sauce  a  pale  green,  add 
the  coloring  principle  with  caution,  until  the  correct  shade  is 
obtained.  Use  this  sauce  for  Chaud-froids  of  fowl,  particularly 
"Printanier" 

Lent  Chaud-Froid  Sauce. 

Proceed  as  for  white  Chaud-Froid,  using  the  same  quantities, 
hut  with  the  following  modifications:  — 

Substitute  fish  veloute  for  ordinary  veloute,  and  white  fish 
jelly  for  poultry  jelly. 

Chivry  Sauce. 

In  one-half  pint  of  boiling  poultry  stock  put  a  large  pinch 
of  chervil  pluches,  tarragon  and  parsley  leaves,  a  head  of 
young  pimpernel  and  a  good  pinch  of  chives.  Cover  up,  and 
for  ten  or  twelve  minutes  infuse;  then  add  the  liquid  (strained 
through  linen)  to  one  pint  of  veloute.  Boil,  reduce  by  a  quar- 
ter, and  complete  it  with  two  ounces  of  Green  Butter.  Chivry 
Sauce  may  be  served  with  boiled  or  poached  poultry. 

Cream    Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  Bechamel  Sauce,  and  add  one  gill  of  cream 
to  it.  Reduce  on  an  open  fire  until  the  sauce  has  become  very 
thick;  then  pass  through  a  sieve.  Bring  to  its  normal  degree 
of  consistency  by  gradually  adding,  away  from  the  fire,  one- 
quarter  pint  of  very  fresh  cream  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice.  Serve  with  boiled  fish,  poultry,  'eggs,  and  various  veg- 
etables. 

Shrimp  Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  fish  veloute  or,  failing  this,  Bechamel 
Sauce,  and  add  to  it  one-quarter  pint  of  cream  and  one-quarter 
pint  of  very  clear  fish  fumet.  Reduce  to  one  pint,  and  finish 
the  sauce,  away  from  the  fire,  with  two  ounces  of  Shrimp 
Butter  and  two  ounces  of  shelled  shrimps'  tails. 

Curry  Sauce. 

Slightly  brown  the  following  vegetables  in  butter:  —  Twelve 
ounces  of  minced  onions,  one-ounce  of  parsley  roots,  four 
ounces  of  minced  celery,  a  small  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bit  of  bay, 
and  a  little  mace.  Sprinkle  with  two  ounces  of  flour  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  curry  pepper.  Cook  the  flour  for  some  minutes 
without  letting  it  acquire  any  color,  and  dilute  with  one  and 


48  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

one-half  pints  of  white  stock.  Boil,  cook  gently  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Now  heat  the 
sauce,  remove  its  grease,  and  keep  it  in  the  bain-marie. 
Serve  with  fish,  shell-fish,  poultry  and  various  egg-prepara- 
tions. 

Sauce  Diplomate. 

Take  one  pint  of  Normande  Sauce,  and  finish  it  with  two 
ounces  of  lobster  butter  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  lobster 
meat,  and  truffles  cut  into  small,  regular  cubes. 

Herb   Sauce. 

Prepare  one  pint  of  white  wine  sauce.  Finish  it  away  from 
the  fire  with  three  ounces  of  shallot  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of 
parsley,  chervil,  tarragon  and  chives,  chopped  and  mixed. 
Serve  with  boiled  or  poached  fish. 

Gooseberry  Sauce. 

Prepare  one  pint  of  butter  sauce.  Meanwhile  put  one  pound 
of  green  gooseberries  into  a  small  copper  saucepan  containing 
boiling  water.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  then  drain  the  goose- 
berries, and  put  them  in  a  little  stewpan  with  one-half  pint 
of  white  wine  and  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  Cook 
gently  the  gooseberries,  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  and  add  the 
resulting  pulp  to  the  butter  sauce.  Excellent  with  grilled  mack- 
erel and  the  poached  fillets  of  that  fish. 

Hungarian  Sauce. 

Fry  gently  in  butter,  without  coloring,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  onions  seasoned  with  table-salt  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  paprika.  Moisten  with  a  gill  of  white  wine,  add  a  small 
faggot,  reduce  the  wine  by  two-thirds,  and  remove  the  herbs. 

Finish  with  one  pint  veloute,  according  to  the  use  for  which 
the  sauce  is  intended,  and  boil  moderately  for  five  minutes. 
Then  rub  the  sauce  through  a  sieve,  and  complete  it  with  two 
ounces  of  butter.  Remember  to  keep  the  sauce  a  delicate  pink 
shade. 

Oyster    Sauce. 

Take  one  pint  of  Normande  Sauce  and  complete  it  with  a 
gill  of  reduced  oyster  liquor,  strained  through  linen,  and  twelve 
poached  and  trimmed  oysters. 

Sauce   Albufera. 

Take  the  necessary  quantity  of  Supreme  Sauce,  and  add  to 
this  four  tablespoonfuls  of  dissolved,  pale  meat  glaze  per 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  49 

quart  of  sauce,  to  give  it  the  ivory-white  tint  which  character- 
izes it.     Serve  with  poultry  and  poached  sweet-bread. 

Sauce  Joinville. 

Prepare  a  pint  of  Normande  Sauce  and  complete  it  with  two 
ounces  of  shrimp  butter  and  two  ounces  of  crayfish  butter. 
If  this  sauce  is  to  accompany  a  fish  a  la  Joinville,  which  in- 
cludes a  special  garnish,  it  is  served  as  it  stands.  If  it  is 
served  with  a  large,  boiled,  ungarnished  fish,  an  ounce  of  black 
truffles  cut  Julienne-fashion  should  be  added.  Joinville  Sauce 
differs  from  similar  preparations  in  the  final  operation  where 
crayfish  and  shrimp  butter  are  combined. 

Mariniere  Sauce. 

Take  the  necessary  quantity  of  Bercy  Sauce  and  add,  per 
pint  of  sauce,  one  gill  of  mussel  liquor  and  a  liaison  composed 
of  the  yolks  of  three  eggs. 

Serve  with  small  poached  fish,  particularly  with  mussels. 

Mornay   Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  Bechamel  Sauce  with  one  gill  of  the  fumet 
of  that  fish.  Reduce  by  a  good  quarter,  and  add  two  ounces 
of  Gruyere  and  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan. 

Put  the  sauce  on  the  fire  again  for  a  few  minutes,  and  melt 
the  cheese  by  stirring  with  a  small  whisk.  Finish  the  sauce 
away  from  the  fire  with  two  ounces  of  butter  added  slowly. 

Mousseuse  Sauce. 

Scald  and  wipe  dry  a  small  vegetable-pan,  and  put  into  it 
one-half  pound  of  stiffly-wamVrf  butter,  properly  softened. 
Season  with  tablesalt  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  and  whisk 
while  gradually  adding  one-third  pint  of  cold  water.  Finish 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  very  firm,  whipped  cream.  This 
preparation  is  served  with  boiled  fish.  The  heat  of  the  fish 
alone  suffices  to  melt  it.  It  is  much  preferred  to  plain  melted 
butter. 

Mustard   Sauce 

Take  the  necessary  quantity  of  butter  sauce  and  complete 
it,  away  from  the  fire,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard  per 
pint  of  sauce.  It  is  served  with  small  grilled  fish,  especially 
fresh  herrings. 

Nantua  Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  Bechamel  Sauce,  add  one-half  pint  of  cream, 
and  reduce  by  a  third.  Rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  finish  with 
a  further  addition  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  three  ounces 


So  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

of  very  fine   crayfish   butter,   and  one  tablespoonful   of  small 
shelled  crayfishes'  tails. 

Noisette   Sauce. 

Prepare  a  Hollandaise  Sauce  and  add  two  ounces  of  hazel- 
nut  butter  at  the  last  moment. 

Serve  with  salmon,  trout,  and  boiled  fish  generally. 

Normande  Sauce. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  fish  veloute,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  each  of  mushroom  liquor,  oyster  liquor  and  twice  as 
much  sole  fumet,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  a  few  drops  of 
lemon- juice,  and  a  gill  of  cream.  Reduce  by  a  good  third  on 
an  open  fire,  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  rub  through  a  sieve, 
and  finish  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  good  cream. 

This  sauce  is  proper  for  fillet  of  sole  a  la  Normande,  and  is 
also  used  as  the  base  of  other  small  sauces. 

Oriental  Sauce. 

Take  one  pint  of  American  Sauce,  season  with  curry,  and 
reduce  to  a  third.  Then  add,  away  from  the  fire,  one  gill  of 
cream  per  pint  of  sauce. 

Serve  in  the  same  way  as  American  Sauce. 

Poulette   Sauce. 

Boil  for  a  few  minutes  one  pint  of  Sauce  Allemande,  and 
add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor.  Finish,  away  from 
the  fire,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice  and  one  teaspoon ful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Ravigotte  Sauce. 

Reduce  by  half,  a  gill  of  white  wine  with  half  as  much 
vinegar.  Add  one  pint  of  ordinary  veloute,  boil  gently  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  finish  with  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  shallot 
butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chervil,  tarragon,  and  chopped 
chives.  Usually  served  with  boiled  poultry. 

Soubise  Sauce. 

Stew  in  butter  two  pounds  of  finely-minced  onions.  This 
stewing  of  the  onions  in  butter  increases  their  flavor.  Now 
add  one-half  pint  of  thickened  Bechamel;  season  with  salt 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar.  Cook  gently  for  half  an 
hour,  rub  through  a  sieve,  and  complete  the  sauce  with  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  butter. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  51 

Soubise  Sauce  Tomatee. 

Prepare  a  soubise  as  described  above,  and  add  to  it  one-third 
of  its  volume  of  very  red  tomato  puree. 

Sauce  Supreme. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  one-half  pints  of  clear  poultry 
stock  and  one  gill  of  mushroom  cooking  liquor.  Reduce  to 
two-thirds ;  add  one  pint  of  "  poultry  veloute  " ;  reduce  again, 
stirring  with  a  spatula  the  while,  and  combine  half  pint  of  cream 
with  the  sauce,  this  last  being  added  by  degrees. 

When  the  sauce  has  reached  the  desired  consistence,  strain 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  another  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces 
of  best  butter.  Stir  with  a  spoon,  from  time  to  time. 

Venetian  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots,  one 
tablespoonful  of  chervil,  and  one  gill  of  white  wine  and  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  mixed  in  equal  quantities.  Reduce  the  vine- 
gar by  two-thirds;  add  one  pint  of  white  wine  sauce;  boil  for 
a  few  minutes;  rub  through  a  sieve,  and  finish  the  sauce  with 
sufficient  herb  juice  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chervil 
and  tarragon.  Served  with  various  fish. 

Villeroy  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  Allemande  Sauce  to  which 
has  been  added  two  tablespoonfuls  of  truffle  essence  and  ham 
essence. 

Reduce,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  sufficiently  stiff  to  coat 
immersed  solids  thickly. 

White  Wine   Sauce. 

May  be  made  by  three  methods. 

1.  Add  one-quarter  pint  of  fish  fumet  to  one  pint  of  thick- 
ened veloute,  and  reduce  by  half.     Finish  the  sauce,  away  from 
the  fire,  with  four  ounces  of  butter.     Thus  prepared  it  is  suit- 
able for  glazed  fish. 

2.  Almost  entirely  reduce  a  gill  of  fish  fumet.     To  this  re- 
duction add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,   mixing  them  well  in  it, 
and  follow  with  one  pound  of  butter,  added  by  degrees. 

3.  Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  into  a  small  stewpan  and  mix 
with  them,  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  fish-stock.     Put  the  stew- 
pan in  a  bain-marie  and  finish  the  sauce  with  one  pound  of  but- 
ter,   adding   from   time   to   time,    and   in   small   quantities   six 
tablespoonfuls  of  fish  fumet. 


52  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Apple  Sauce. 

Peel,  quarter,  core,  and  chip  two  pounds  of  medium-sized 
apples;  place  these  in  a  stewpan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
water.  Cook  gently  with  lid  on,  and  smooth  the  puree  with  a 
whisk  when  dishing  up. 

Serve  lukewarm  with  duck,  goose,  roast  hare,  etc. 

Bread   Sauce. 

Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  and  add  three  ounces  of  fresh,  white 
bread-crumbs,  a  little  salt,  a  small  onion  with  a  clove  stuck 
in  it,  and  one  ounce  of  butter.  Cook  gently  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  remove  the  onion,  smooth  the  sauce  with  a  whisk,  and 
finish  it  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

Serve  with  roast  fowl  and  roast  feathered  game. 

Celery  Sauce. 

Clean  six  stalks  of  celery  using  only  the  hearts,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan,  wholly  immerse  in  consomme,  add  a  faggot  and  one 
onion  with  a  clove  stuck  in  it,  and  cook  gently.  Drain  the 
celery,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve  and 
put  the  puree  in  stewpan.  Now  thin  the  puree  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  cream  sauce  and  a  little  reduced  celery  liquor. 
Heat  it  moderately,  and  if  it  has  to  wait,  put  it  in  a  bain- 
marie. 

Serve  with  boiled  or  braised  poultry. 

Cranberry  Sauce. 

Cook  a  pint  of  cranberries  and  a  quart  of  water  in  a  stew- 
pan, and  cover  the  stewpan.  When  the  berries  are  cooked 
strain  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  To  the  puree  thus  obtained 
add  the  necessary  quantity  of  their  cooking  liquor,  so  as  to 
make  a  somewhat  thick  sauce.  Sugar  according  to  taste. 

This  sauce  is  mostly  served  with  roast  turkey. 

Fennel   Sauce. 

Take  one  pint  of  butter  sauce  and  finish  it  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  fennel,  scald  for  a  few  seconds. 
Serve  principally  with  mackerel. 

Egg  Sauce  With  Melted  Butter. 

Dissolve  one-quarter  pound  of  butter,  and  add  to  it  the  neces- 
sary salt,  a  little  pepper,  half  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  three 
hard-boiled  eggs  (hot  and  cut  into  large  cubes)  ;  also  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  and  scalded  parsley. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  53 

Horse-Radish  Sauce. 

Rasp  five  ounces  of  horseradish  and  place  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  gill  of  white  consomme.  Boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes  and 
add  a  half  pint  of  butter  sauce  and  cream,  and  one-half  ounce 
of  breadcrumbs;  thicken  by  reducing  on  a  brisk  fire  and  rub 
through  sieve.  Then  thicken  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and 
complete  the  seasoning  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  mustard  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  vine- 
gar. 

Serve  with  braised  or  roast  beef. 

Parsley  Sauce. 

This  is  Butter  Sauce,  to  which  is  added  a  heaped  tablespoon- 
ful of  freshly-chopped  parsley  to  the  pint. 

Reform  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  small  stewpan  and  boil  one  pint  of  half-glaze 
sauce  and  one-half  pint  of  ordinary  Poivrade  sauce.  Complete 
with  a  garnish  composed  of  half  an  ounce  of  gherkins,  half  an 
ounce  of  the  hard-boiled  white  of  an  egg,  one  ounce  of  salted 
tongue,  one  ounce  of  truffles,  and  one  ounce  of  mushrooms. 
All  to  be  cut  Julienne-fashion  and  short. 

Served  with  mutton  cutlets  and  designated  a  la  Reforme. 

Genoa  Sauce. 

Pound  in  a  mortar,  and  make  into  a  smooth,  fine  paste,  one 
ounce  of  pistachios  and  one  ounce  of  fir-apple  kernels,  or,  if 
these  are  not  available,  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds;  add  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  cold  Bechamel.  Put  paste  into  a  bowl, 
add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  finish 
the  sauce  with  one  quart  of  oil,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and 
proceed  as  for  Mayonnaise. 

Complete  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  puree  of  herbs,  pre- 
pared with  equal  quantities  of  chervil,  parsley,  tarragon,  and 
fresh  pimpernel,  previously  blanched.  Cool  quickly,  expel  the 
water,  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Serve  with  cold  fish. 

Mayonnaise   Sauce. 

Put  in  a  bowl  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  after  having  re- 
moved the  cores.  Season  with  half  ounce  of  table  salt  and  a 
little  cayenne  pepper.  Gradually  pour  one-fifth  pint  of  vine- 
gar on  the  yolks  while  whisking  them  briskly.  When  the 
vinegar  is  absorbed  add  one  quart  of  oil,  very  slowly,  con- 
stantly stirring  the  sauce  meanwhile.  The  sauce  is  finished  by 


54  -STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  addition  of  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
boiling  water  —  the  purpose  of  the  latter  being  to  ensure  the 
coherence  of  the  sauce  and  to  prevent  its  turning. 

Mayonnaise  prepared  in  this  way  is  rather  liquid,  but  left 
to  rest  a  few  hours  will  thicken  considerably.  Unless  it  be  ex- 
posed to  too  low  a  temperature,  the  Mayonnaise,  prepared  as 
above,  never  turns,  and  may  be  kept  sweet  for  several  days. 
Keep  free  from  dust  by  covering. 

Cleared  Mayonnaise  Sauce. 

Take  the  necessary  quantity  of  Mayonnaise  and  gradually 
add  to  it,  per  one  and  one-half  pints  of  the  sauce,  one-half 
pint  of  cold  and  rather  firm  melting  aspic  jelly  —  Lenten  or 
ordinary,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  products  for  which 
the  sauce  is  intended. 

Whisked  Mayonnaise. 

Put  into  a  copper  saucepan  or  other  bowl  three-quarters  pint  of 
melted  jelly,  two-thirds  pint  of  Mayonnaise,  one  tablespoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  rasped  finely-chopped  horse-radish. 
Mix  up  the  whole,  place  the  utensil  on  ice,  and  whisk  gently 
until  the  contents  get  very  frothy.  Stop  whisking  as  soon  as 
the  sauce  begins  to  solidify,  for  it  must  remain  almost  fluid  so 
as  to  enable  it  to  mix  with  the  products  for  which  it  is  intended. 

Use  principally  for  vegetable  salads. 

Ravigote  Sauce,  or  Vinaigrette. 

Put  into  a  bowl  one  pint  of  oil,  one-third  pint  of  vinegar, 
a  little  salt  and  pepper,  two  ounces  of  small  capers,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fine  herbs,  comprising  finely  chopped  onion,  as 
much  parsley,  and  half  as  much  chervil,  tarragon,  and  chives. 
Mix  thoroughly.  The  Ravigote  accompanies  calf's  head  or 
foot,  sheep's  trotters,  etc. 

Remoulade  Sauce. 

To  one  pint  of  Mayonnaise  add  a  large  tablespoonful  each 
of  mustard,  gherkins,  chopped  and  pressed  capers,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  fine  herbs,  parsley,  chervil,  and  tarragon,  all  chopped 
and  mixed,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence. 

This  sauce  is  served  with  cold  meat,  poultry,  and  lobster. 

Cambridge    Sauce. 

Pound  together  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  washed 
and  dried  fillets  of  four  anchovies,  a  teaspoonful  of  capers,  a 
dessertspoonful  of  chervil,  tarragon,  and  chives,  mixed.  When 
the  whole  forms  a  fine  paste,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  55 

one-fifth  pint  of  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  proceed 
as  for  a  Mayonnaise.  Season  with  a  little  cayenne ;  rub  through 
sieve,  pressed  with  a  spoon,  and  put  the  sauce  in  a  bowl.  Stir 
awhile  with  a  whisk  to  smooth  it,  and  finish  with  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Suited  to  cold  meats  in  general. 

Cumberland   Sauce. 

Dissolve  four  tablespoonfuls  of  red-currant  jelly,  to  which 
are  added  one-fifth  pint  of  port  wine,  one  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  scalded  for  a  few  seconds  and  pressed,  one 
teaspoonful  of  small  pieces  of  orange  rind  and  as  much  lemon 
rind  (cut  finely,  Julienne  fashion,  scalded  for  two  minutes, 
well-drained,  and  cooled),  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  that  of 
half  a  lemon,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per, and  as  much  powdered  ginger.  Mix  the  whole  well. 

Serve  with  cold  venison. 

Gloucester  Sauce. 

Take  one  pint  of  very  thick  Mayonnaise  and  complete  it  with 
one-fifth  pint  of  sour  cream  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  com- 
bine with  the  Mayonnaise  by  degrees  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  fennel  and  as  much  Worcester  Sauce. 

Serve  with  all  cold  meats. 

Oxford  Sauce. 

Make  a  Cumberland  Sauce  as  previously  described  but  in- 
stead of  the  Julienne  of  orange  and  lemon  rinds  use  rasped  or 
finely-chopped  rinds,  and  about  two-thirds  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
each. 

Horse-Radish  Sauce. 

Dilute  one  tablesponful  of  mustard  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar  in  a  bowl,  add  one  pound  of  finely  rasped  horse- 
radish, two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  a  little  salt,  one  pint  of 
cream,  and  one  pound  of  breadcrumbs  steeped  in  milk  and 
pressed. 

Serve  very  cold  with  boiled  and  roast  beef. 

Bercy  Butter. 

Put  into  a  small  stewpan  a  gill  of  white  wine  and  one  ounce 
of  finely-chopped  shallots,  previously  blanched.  Reduce  the 
wine  by  one-half,  and  add  half  a  pound  of  butter,  softened 
into  a  cream;  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  ounces 
of  beef  marrow  cut  into  cubes,  poached  in  slightly  salted  water 


56  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  drained,  the  necessary  table-salt,  and  a  little  ground  pepper 
and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice. 

This  butter  must  not  be  completely  melted,  and  is  served  with 
grilled  beef. 

Ravigote  Butter. 

Put  into  a  small  saucepan  of  salted,  boiling  water,  six  ounces 
of  chervil,  parsley,  tarragon,  fresh  pimpernel,  and  chives,  in 
equal  quantities,  and  two  ounces  of  chopped  shallots.  Boil 
quickly  for  two  minutes,  drain,  cool  in  cold  water,  press  in  a 
towel  to  completely  remove  the  water,  and  pound  in  a  mortar. 
Now  add  one-half  pound  of  half-melted  butter,  mix  well  with 
the  puree  of  herbs,  and  pass  through  sieve. 

Chateaubriand  Butter. 

Reduce,  by  two-thirds,  four-fifths  of  a  pint  of  white  wine 
containing  four  chopped  shallots,  fragments  of  thyme  and  bay, 
and  four  ounces  of  mushroom -parings.  Add  four-fifths  pint 
of  veal  gravy,  reduce  the  whole  to  half,  rub  it  through  sieve, 
and  finish  it  away  from  the  fire  with  eight  ounces  of  Maitre 
d'Hotel  butter  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  tarragon. 

Colbert  Butter. 

Take  one  pound  of  Maitre  d'Hotel  butter,  add  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  dissolved,  pale  meat  glaze  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  tarragon. 

Serve  with  fish  prepared  a  la  Colbert. 

Green  Coloring  Butter. 

Peel,  wash  and  thoroughly  shake  free  from  water  two  pounds 
of  spinach.  Pound  it  raw  and  then  press  it  in  a  strong  towel, 
twisting  the  latter  so  as  to  extract  all  the  green  juice.  Pour 
this  into  a  saucepan,  let  it  coagulate  in  a  bain-marie,  and  pour 
it  on  to  a  serviette  stretched  over  a  bowl  in  order  to  drain 
away  the  water.  Collect  the  coloring  substance  on  the  ser- 
viette, using  a  palette-knife  for  the  purpose,  and  put  into  a 
mortar;  mix  with  half  its  weight  of  butter,  strain  through  a 
sieve,  and  put  aside  to  cool.  This  green  butter  is  always  pre- 
ferable to  the  liquid  green  found  on  the  market. 

Various  Cullises. 

Finely  pound  shrimp  and  crayfish  shells,  and  combine  with 
these  the  available  creamy  parts  and  spawn  of  the  common 
and  spiny  lobsters;  add  a  gill  of  rich  cream  per  pound  of  the 
above  remains,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  This  cullis 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  57 

is  prepared  just  in  time  for  dishing  up,  and  serves  as  a  re- 
fining principle  in  certain  fish  sauces. 

Shrimp  Butter. 

Finely  pound  any  available  shrimp  remains,  add  to  these  their 
weight  of  butter,  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  Place  in  a  bowl 
and  put  aside  In  the  cool. 

Shallot   Butter. 

Put  eight  ounces  of  roughly  minced  shallots  in  the  corner 
of  a  clean  towel,  and  wash  them  quickly  in  boiling  water. 
Cool  and  press  them  heavily.  Then  pound  them  finely  with 
their  own  weight  of  fresh  butter  and  strain  through  sieve. 

This  butter  accentuates  the  savor  of  certain  sauces,  such  as 
Bercy,  Ravigote,  etc. 

Crayfish   Butter. 

Pound  very  finely,  the  remains  and  shells  of  crayfish  cooked 
in  Mirepoix.  Add  their  weight  of  butter,  and  strain  through  a 
fine  sieve,  to  remove  any  shell  particles. 

Tarragon  Butter. 

Blanch  and  cool  eight  ounces  of  fresh  tarragon,  drain,  press 
in  a  towel,  pound  in  a  mortar,  and  add  to  them  one  pound  of 
butter.  Strain  through  sieve,  and  put  aside  in  the  cool  if  not 
to  be  used  immediately. 

Lobster  Butter. 

Reduce  to  a  paste  in  the  mortar  the  spawn,  shell,  and  creamy 
parts  of  lobster.  Add  their  equal  in  weight  of  butter  and 
strain  through  sieve. 

Butter  a  la  Maitre  d*H6teL 

First  manie  and  then  soften  into  a  cream  one-half  pound  of 
butter.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  Serve  with  grills 
in  general. 

Manied   Butter. 

Mix,  until  perfectly  combined,  four  ounces  of  butter  and 
three  ounces  of  sifted  flour.  This  butter  is  made  immediately 
before  the  time  of  dishing  up,  and  is  used  for  quick  liaisons 
like  Matelotes,  etc. 

The  sauce  to  which  manied  butter  has  been  added  should 
not  boil  if  this  can  be  avoided,  as  it  thereby  acquires  a  very 
disagreeable  taste  of  raw  flour. 


58  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Melted  Butter. 

This,  used  principally  as  a  fish  sauce,  should  consist  of  but- 
ter, only  just  melted,  and  combined  with  a  little  table-salt  and 
a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  It  should  therefore  be  prepared 
only  at  the  last  minute;  for,  should  it  wait  and  be  allowed  to 
clarify,  besides  losing  its  flavor  it  will  be  found  to  disagree 
with  certain  people. 

Butter  a  la  Meuniere. 

Put  into  a  frying-pan  the  necessary  quantity  of  butter,  and 
cook  gently  until  it  has  acquired  a  golden  tint  and  exudes  a 
slight  smell  of  nut.  Add  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  and  pour 
on  the  fish  under  treatment,  which  should  have  been  previously 
sprinkled  with  concassed  parsley. 

This  butter  is  proper  to  fish  &  la  Meuniere,  and  is  always 
served  on  the  fish. 

Montpellier  Butter. 

Blanch  equal  quantities  of  watercress  leaves,  parsley,  chervil, 
chives,  and  tarragon  (six  ounces  in  all)  one  and  one-half 
ounces  of  chopped  shallots,  and  one-half  ounce  of  spinach 
leaves.  Drain,  cool,  press  in  a  towel  to  expel  water,  and 
pound  in  a  mortar  with  one  tablespoonful  of  pressed  capers, 
four  ounces  of  gherkins,  a  garlic  clove,  and  the  fillets  of  four 
anchovies  well  washed. 

Mix  this  paste  with  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  butter;  then 
add  the  yolks  of  three  boiled  'eggs  and  two  raw  eggs,  and 
finally  pour  in  by  degrees,  two-fifths  pint  of  oil.  Strain 
through  a  fine  sieve,  put  the  butter  into  a  bowl,  and  stir  it  well 
with  a  wooden  spoon  so  as  to  make  it  smooth.  Season  with 
table  salt  and  a  little  cayenne. 

Use  this  butter  to  deck  large  fish,  such  as  salmon,  and  trout; 
it  is  also  used  for  smaller  pieces  and  slices  of  fish. 

Black  Butter. 

Put  into  a  frying  pan  the  necessary  amount  of  butter,  and 
cook  it  until  it  has  a  brown  color  and  begins  to  smoke.  At 
this  moment  add  a  large  pinch  of  concassed  parsley  leaves  and 
spread  it  immediately  over  the  object  to  be  treated. 

Hazel-Nut  Butter. 

Put  eight  ounces  of  shelled  hazel-nuts,  for  a  moment,  in 
the  front  of  the  oven,  in  order  to  slightly  grill  their  skins  and 
make  them  easily  removable.  Now  crush  the  nuts  in  a  mor- 
tar until  they  form  a  paste,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  cold  water 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  59 

with  a  view  to  preventing  their  producing  any  oil.     Add  their 
equivalent  in  weight  of  butter  and  rub  through  sieve. 

Pistachio  Butter. 

Put  into  boiling  water  half  pound  of  pistachios,  and  keep 
them  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  peel  may  be  easily  re- 
moved. Drain,  cool  in  cold  water,  clean  the  pistachios,  and 
finely  pound  while  moistening  them  with  water.  Add  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  pass  through  sieve. 

Printanier    Butter. 

These  butters  are  made  from  all  early-season  vegetables, 
such  as  carrots,  French-beans,  peas  and  asparagus  heads. 

When  dealing  with  green  vegetables  cook  quickly  in  boiling 
salted  water,  drain,  dry,  pound  with  their  weight  of  butter, 
and  rub  through  sieve. 

With  carrots.  Mince  and  cook  with  consomme,  sugar  and 
butter  until  the  diluent  is  quite  reduced.  After  cooking  they 
are  pounded,  with  their  own  weight  of  butter  and  rubbed 
through  sieve. 

Hot  Tartar  Sauce. 

Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  in  a  small  stewpan, 
four  of  broth  or  milk,  boil  a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  tartar  sauce  in  it,  stir  it  very  quickly  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  make  it  quite  hot,  but  not  boiling;  put  it  on  a 
dish,  and  serve  where  described. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Sauce. 

Put  eight  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  four 
of  white  stock  or  milk;  boil  it  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  two 
ounces  of  Maitre  d'Hotel  butter;  stir  it  quickly  over  the  fire 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  but  do  not  let  the  sauce  boil  after 
the  butter  is  in;  this  sauce  should  only  be  made  at  the  time  of 
serving. 

Vegetable  Sauce. 

Take  equal  parts  of  carrot,  turnips,  mushrooms,  sausages, 
and  boiled  shelled  chestnuts.  Cut  into  small  pieces  and  place 
in  a  stewpan  or  earthenware  cooking  pot.  Add  just  sufficient 
clear  stock  to  cover,  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender, 
when  a  spoonful  of  sherry  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt  should 
be  added. 

This  mixture  is  largely  used  in  Spain  as  an  addition  to 
chicken  sweetbread,  or  indeed  almost  any  kind  of  meat. 


60  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Eschalot  Sauce. 

Chop  fine  about  a  good  tablespoonful  of  shallot,  place  it  in 
the  corner  of  a  napkin,  and  pour  water  over;  press  until  dry, 
and  put  in  a  small  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
one  clove,  a  little  mace;  boil  two  minutes,  add  ten  tablespoon- 
fuls of  demi-glaze,  boil  a  little  longer,  add  a  little  sugar,  and 
serve. 

Piquant  or  Sharp  Sauce. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  or  shallots,  cleaned 
as  above,  into  a  stewpan;  put  also  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vine- 
gar, and  a  bay-leaf,  and  boil;  then  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce,  half  a  one  of  chopped  parsley,  ditto  of  green 
gherkins;  boil  five  minutes,  skim,  add  a  little  sugar,  taste  if 
well  seasoned,  take  out  bay-leaf  and  serve. 

Tarragon  Sauce. 

Put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  and  four  of  broth, 
into  a  stewpan;  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  have  ready  picked  twenty  leaves  of  fresh  tarragon,  put 
in  to  simmer  two  minutes,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  poultry, 
but  especially  spring  chickens. 

Brown  Cucumber  Sauce. 

Peel  a  small  fresh  cucumber,  cut  it  in  neat  pieces,  put  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  little  sugar,  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  set 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  it  now  and  then,  add  twelve  tablespoon- 
fuls of  brown  sauce,  and  eight  of  broth;  let  it  simmer  till  ten- 
der, skim  the  butter  off,  remove  the  cucumber  into  another  stew- 
pan, pass  the  sauce,  reduce  it  a  little,  taste  it,  pour  over,  and 
serve. 

Mince  Herb  Sauce. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  onions  in  a  stew- 
pan, add  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  place  it  on  the  fire,  stir  a  few 
minutes,  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  and  four  of 
broth  or  water;  boil,  skim;  if  too  thick,  and  the  scum  should 
not  rise,  add  half  a  gill  of  broth  or  water ;  boil,  and  reduce  to  a 
proper  thickness,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
if  at  hand,  one  of  mushrooms,  and  season  with  a  little  cayenne; 
the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon;  serve.  I  often  introduce  a 
little  garlic  in  this. 

Italian  Herb  Sauce. 

Proceed  in  the  same  way  as  the  above,  only  add  a  little 
chopped  thyme,  and  a  small  glass  of  sherry. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  61 

Sauce  Robert. 

Peel  and  cut  up  two  good-sized  onions,  put  them  in  stewpan 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  till  they  are  a  nice  yellow  color,  then 
add  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  and  two  of  water  or 
broth;  skim,  boil  quickly;  when  of  a  proper  thickness  add  a 
good  tablespoonful  of  French  mustard;  season  rather  high,  if 
no  French  mustard,  use  English,  but  French  is  preferable  as  it 
adds  to  the  flavor. 

Ravigote  Sauce. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  one  middle-sized  onion  sliced,  with  a  little 
carrot,  a  little  thyme,  bay  leaf,  one  clove,  a  little  mace,  a  little 
scraped  horse-radish,  a  little  butter,  fry  a  few  minutes,  then 
add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown 
sauce,  four  of  broth ;  when  boiling,  skim,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
currant  jelly;  when  melted,  pass  all  through  a  sieve,  and  serve 
with  any  kind  of  meat  or  poultry;  with  hare  or  venison  it  is 
excellent. 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Dean  and  cut  twelve  small  mushrooms  in  slices,  place  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter,  salt,  pepper,  the  juice  of  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon,  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  ten  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze;  boil  till  they  are  tender, 
and  serve.  A  little  mushroom  catsup  may  be  introduced. 

Orange  Sauce  for  Game. 

Peel  half  an  orange,  removing  all  the  pith;  cut  it  into  slices, 
and  then  in  fillets;  put  them  in  a  gill  of  water  to  boil  for  two 
minutes;  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  throwing  the  water  away; 
place  in  the  stewpan  two  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze  or  ten  of 
broth;  and,  when  boiling,  add  the  orange,  a  little  sugar,  sim- 
mer ten  minutes,  skim,  and  serve.  The  juice  of  half  an  orange 
is  an  improvement.  This  is  served  with  ducklings  and  water- 
fowl or  any  roast  game;  those  that  like  may  add  cayenne  and 
mustard. 

Garlic  Sauce. 

Though  many  dislike  the  flavor  of  this  root,  yet  those  that 
like  it  ought  not  to  be  deprived  of  it.  Put  in  a  stewpan  ten 
tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  a  little  tomato  sauce,  if  handy; 
boil  it  a  few  minutes,  scrape  half  a  clove  of  garlic,  put  it  in 
with  a  little  sugar,  and  serve. 

Mint  Sauce  for  Lamb. 
Take  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  leaves  of  green  mint, 


62  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

three  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar,  and  put  into  a  basin  with 
half  a  pint  of  brown  vinegar;  stir  it  well  up,  add  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  serve. 

Liaison  of  Eggs. 

Break  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin,  with  which  mix 
six  spoonfuls  of  milk,  or  eight  of  cream;  pass  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  use  when  directed. 

Anchovy  Butter  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  eight  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  or  three 
of  broth;  when  boiling,  add  one  ounce  of  anchovy  butter;  stir 
continually  till  melted;  serve  where  directed. 

Soyer*s   Sauce. 

Put  six  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze  into  a  stewpan;  when  hot, 
add  four  spoonfuls  of  Soyer's  Gentleman's  Sauce;  let  boil,  and 
serve  with  either  chop,  steak,  cutlet,  poultry,  or  game. 

Papillotte  Sauce. 

Scrape  half  an  ounce  of  fat  bacon,  put  it  in  a  pan  with  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  and  boil; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  mushrooms  chopped,  one  ditto  of 
parsley,  a  little  nutmeg,  a  little  pepper  and  sugar,  a  quarter  of 
a  clove  of  scraped  garlic;  reduce  till  rather  thickish;  put  on 
dish  till  cold,  and  use  it  for  anything  you  may  put  up  en 
Papillotte. 

Tomato  Sauce. 

If  fresh,  put  six  in  stewpan;  having  removed  the  stalk,  and 
squeezed  them  in  the  hand  to  remove  pips,  etc.,  add  half  an 
onion,  sliced,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay  leaf,  half  an  ounce  of 
celery,  one  ounce  of  ham  or  bacon,  same  of  butter,  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  same  of  salt,  a  salt  spoonful  of  pepper;  set  on 
fire  to  stew  gently;  when  all  tender,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth,  boil  five  minutes,  add  a 
little  cayenne,  taste  if  highly  seasoned,  pass  it  through  sieve, 
put  it  back  in  stewpan,  until  it  adheres  rather  thick  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  and  use  it  for  any  kind  of  meat  or  poultry. 
If  fresh  tomatoes  are  not  available  use  canned  tomatoes,  but 
always  remember  that  fresh  tomatoes  are  to  be  preferred. 

A  Very  Good  and  Useful  White  Sauce. 

Put  a  quart  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan  of  the  necessary 
capacity  on  a  fire;  stir  continually  until  reduced  to  one-third; 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  63 

put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  basin,  stir  them  well  up,  add  your 
sauce  gradually,  keep  stirring,  put  back  in  stewpan,  set  it  to 
boil  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling 
milk,  which  will  bring  it  to  its  proper  thickness;  that  is,  when 
it  adheres  transparently  to  the  back  of  a  spoon;  pass  through 
a  sieve  into  a  bowl,  stir  now  and  then  till  cold.  If  not  im- 
mediately required,  and  I  have  any  stock  left,  I  use  half  of  it 
with  half  of  milk.  I  also  try  this  way,  which  is  very  con- 
venient: when  the  yolks  are  in,  and  well  boiled,  I  put  it  in  a 
large  gallipot,  and  when  cold,  cover  with  pieces  of  paper;  it 
will  keep  good  in  winter  for  two  or  three  weeks,  and  for  quite 
a  week  in  summer;  when  I  want  to  use  a  little  of  it,  I  only 
take  a  spoonful  or  two  and  warm  it  on  the  fire,  and  add  enough 
milk  or  white  broth  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  thickness,  and  use 
where  required.  This  sauce  is  very  smooth,  and  never  turns 
greasy;  it  lies  beautifully  on  fowl  or  any  white  made  dish;  the 
addition  of  a  drop  of  cream  gives  it  a  very  fine  white  appear- 
ance. 

Onion  Puree  Sauce. 

Peel  and  cut  six  onions  in  slices;  put  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of 
sugar,  a  half  one  of  pepper ;  place  on  a  slow  fire  to  simmer  till 
in  a  pulp,  stirring  them  now  and  then  to  prevent  them  get- 
ting brown,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  pint  of 
milk,  and  boil  till  a  proper  thickness,  which  should  be  a  little 
thicker  than  melted  butter;  pass  through  a  sieve,  warm  again, 
and  serve  with  mutton  cutlets,  chops,  rabbits,  or  fowl;  by  not 
passing  it,  it  will  do  for  roast  mutton  and  boiled  rabbit  as 
onion  sauce. 

Puree  of  Cauliflower  Sauce. 

Boil  a  cauliflower  well  in  three  pints  of  water,  in  which  you 
have  previously  put  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
salt;  when  done,  chop  it  up,  having  prepared  and  slowly  cooked 
in  a  stewpan  an  onion  sliced,  a  little  celery,  half  a  turnip,  one 
ounce  of  ham,  two  of  butter,  a  little  bay-leaf,  mace,  add  then 
the  cauliflower,  stir  round,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  moisten 
as  above  for  onions,  pass,  and  finish  the  same  way. 
Jerusalem  Artichoke  Sauce. 

Peel  twelve,  and  well  wash;  boil  till  tender,  and  proceed  as 
above. 

Bourgeoise    Sauce. 

Mince  five  or  six  shallots  and  some  parsley ;  place  them  in  an 


64  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

enameled  saucepan  with  a  little  broth  or  water,  a  teaspoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  some  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it  boil  until  the 
shallots  are  cooked. 

This  sauce  can  be  used  with  cold  meat,  whether  roast  or 
boiled. 

Black  Butter. 

This  sauce  is  usually  served  as  an  addition  to  boiled  fish, 
and  is  particularly  excellent  with  skate.  It  is  also  used  with 
fried  eggs. 

Place  some  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  let  it  cook  just  to  the 
point  of  darkening,  but  be  very  careful  not  to  burn  it.  Throw 
in  some  small  sprigs  of  parsley  and  let  them  fry.  Then  pour 
it  over  the  fish.  At  once  place  a  little  vinegar  in  the  frying- 
pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  hot  pour  it  also  over  the  fish  and 
serve  at  once. 

Dutch  Sauce. 

'.Set  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  pan  over  the  fire  until  they 
are  of  the  consistency  of  a  custard,  and  then  blend  carefully 
with  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
that  this  does  not  boil,  or  it  will  be  utterly  spoilt.  Add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  lemon-juice  and  a  little  chopped  parsley,  pep- 
per, and  salt  and  just  a  suspicion  of  nutmeg  before  serving. 

This  sauce  is  suitable  for  fish  or  cutlets,  but  it  is  too  rich  to 
suit  every  palate. 

Cameline   Sauce. 

Toast  lightly  some  slices  of  bread  and  let  them  simmer  over 
the  fire  in  an  enameled  saucepan  with  as  much  red  wine  and 
vinegar  in  equal  parts  as  they  will  absorb.  Season  with  mixed 
spices  and  turn  out  the  whole  to  cool  upon  a  plate,  after  which 
strain  through  a  cloth. 

This  sauce,  if  placed  in  a  covered  vessel,  will  keep  good  for 
a  week,  and  may  be  used  as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  joint. 

Cherry   Sauce. 

Stone  one  pound  of  ripe  cherries,  break  the  stones  and  let 
the  kernels  simmer  with  just  enough  water  to  cover  them  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Now  strain  out  the  kernels,  and  add  to  the 
water  the  cherries,  a  glass  of  claret,  four  cloves,  a  small  slice 
of  stale  bread,  and  sufficient  sugar  to  make  the  whole  sweet. 
Stir  in  a  pint  of  water  and  cook  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Now 
press  the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  let  it  boil  again  until 
moderately  thick. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  65 

This  should  be  served  very  hot  with  either  roast  pork  or 
game. 

Wine  Sauce. 

Stir  into  half  a  pint  of  red  wine,  mixed  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
the  minced  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  cinnamon.  Place  over 
a  good  fire  and  stir  until  the  sauce  begins  to  thicken.  Then 
take  off  the  fire  and  serve. 


66  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


FISH  AND  FISH  SAUCES. 

Grilled  Fish. 

This  method  is  best  suited  to  small  fish  of  medium  size. 
All  the  white  fish  should  be  rolled  in  flour  and  oil  or  clarified 
butter.  Placed  on  a  grid  under  a  very  bright  fire,  taking  care 
that  the  grid  is  very  hot  before  placing  fish  thereon.  If  you 
omit  this  the  fish  will  stick  to  the  grid. 

Salmon,  trout,  red-mullet,  herring,  mackerel  need  not  be 
floured  but  must  be  rolled  in  oil  or  clarified  butter  in  order  to 
give  fish  a  light  brown  color  and  secure  the  fine  flavor. 

This  is  the  only  way  recommended  for  grilling  except  by 
cooking  by  the  paper  bag  process  which  I  introduced  and  which 
is  equivalent  to  the  best  grilling  and  without  all  sorts  of  ap- 
pliances. Maitre  d'Hotel,  anchovy  sauces,  Ravigote,  deviled 
sauce  are  the  best  sauces  for  grilled  fish. 

Fish  Frying  a  la  Franchise. 

Is  performed  by  rolling  the  fish  (after  cleaning)  in  salted 
milk  and  then  in  flour.  It  is  then  plunged  into  boiling  fat  and 
cooked  until  a  light  brown  color.  It  is  then  allowed  to  drain 
and  is  ready  to  serve. 

Fish   Frying   a   TAnglaise. 

After  cleaning  the  fish  it  is  rolled  in  flour  and  then  im- 
mersed in  the  liquor  formed  of  well-whisked  eggs.  It  is  next 
rolled  in  bread-crumbs  and  patted  with  a  palette  knife  to  en- 
sure both  the  cohesion  of  the  whole  coating  and  a  good  shape 
to  the  fish. 

When  cooked  the  fish  is  served  either  on  napkins,  a  drainer, 
or  special  dish-papers,  and  garnished  with  sprigs  of  fried  parsley 
and  slices  or  quarters  of  lemon. 

Fish  Cooked  on  a  Spit  and  Called  a  la  Brioche. 

This  is  suitable  for  large  fish,  such  as  a  twelve  pound  sal- 
mon or  cod. 

Trim  and  clean  your  fish  in  the  usual  way.  Next  chop 
finely  one  shallot  and  one  onion  and  stew  together  in  butter 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  taking  care  that  they  do  not  color. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  67 

Take  from  off  the  fire.  Now  prepare  a  mixture  comprising 
one  quarter  pound  of  bread  crumbs,  the  contents  of  two  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  anchovy  sauce  (or,  preferably  half  dozen 
cleaned  and  filleted  anchovies),  one  tablespoonful  of  capers,  a 
few  mushrooms  sliced  and  cooked,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  pinch  of  thyme  and  bay-leaves  passed  through  a 
sieve,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 
Form  into  a  compact  mass. 

Sprinkle  the  interior  of  fish  with  flour,  after  which  stuff 
with  the  above  mixture.  Cut  six  very  thin  slices  of  fat  ham 
or  bacon  and  wrap  about  the  fish  to  prevent  the  stuffing  from 
falling  out;  tying  round  with  thin  string.  Now  take  two  or 
three  very  large  sheets  of  grease-proof  paper,  well  buttered, 
and  roll  these  round  your  fish  in  a  treble  thickness  and  tied 
with  kitchen  string. 

The  fish  can  now  be  placed  on  a  cradle  spit  before  the  fire 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  one  hour,  basting  occasionally. 

The  best  sauce  is  one  of  plain  melted  butter  and  should  be 
served  with  the  fish  together  with  plain  baked  potatoes.  Care 
must  be  taken  in  removing  paper  and  string  from  the  fish 
when  cooked,  otherwise  it  may  fall  to  pieces. 

Fish  cooked  in  this  way  was  rightly  described  by  my  grand- 
father, Alexis  Soyer,  as  a  dish  for  a  millionaire,  although  it  is 
not  costly. 

Cooking  a  la  Meuniere 

is  a  style  of  cooking  usually  applied  to  fish,  but  is  most  suited 
to  small  fish  rather  than  large.  Fillets  of  sole,  whiting,  mack- 
erel, turbot,  cod,  trout  and  small  salmon  are  cooked  very  nicely 
by  this  method.  Large  fish  may  be  treated  in  this  way  but 
they  require  constant  basting. 

Example. —  Take  six  small  trout,  or  fillets  of  sole,  well  dry 
and  roll  in  flour.  Take  a  frying-pan  and  place  therein  a  lump 
of  butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg.  Place  on  the  fire  and,  when 
melted  and  very  hot,  put  in  the  fillets  and  cook  for  one  minute 
on  each  side,  shaking  the  pan  constantly  to  prevent  sticking. 
Take  out  fish  and  place  on  a  very  hot  dish.  Into  the  butter 
put  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of 
capers,  one  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  sauce  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Shake  well  together  while  over  the  fire  and  when  quite 
hot  add  one  teaspoonful  of  French  vinegar.  Bring  to  boil 
quickly,  then  pour  over  the  fish  and  serve  at  once,  very  hot, 
with  plain  boiled  potatoes  and  a  cucumber  salad  if  in  season. 


68  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


This  is  a  species  of  perch,  and  is  like  a  trout  in  shape,  ex- 
cept that  its  head  is  larger.  Its  flavor  is  finest  just  previous  to 
spawning;  it  is  never  caught  in  rivers,  but  in  bays  at  the 
mouth  of  freshwater  streams,  and,  when  in  season,  is  exceed- 
ingly good  and  very  wholesome;  it  should  be  cooked  in  every 
way  like  salmon. 

Brills 

are  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  turbots,  but,  being  smaller, 
do  not  require  so  long  boiling.  But,  in  boiling  any  description 
of  fish,  never  take  it  up  until  it  will  leave  the  bone  with 
facility,  which  try  by  placing  the  point  of  a  knife  between  the 
flesh  and  the  bone;  if  done,  the  knife  will  part  them  easily. 

Carp  became  naturalized  in  this  country  in  1514,  since  which 
time  the  breed  has  considerably  increased;  they  might  be  made 
of  more  value  if  proper  attention  were  paid  to  them.  Choose 
them  of  a  middling  size,  with  a  soft  roe,  if  possible;  the  scales 
of  a  yellowish  color  near  the  belly;  the  eyes  bright;  the  gills 
very  red,  and  hard  to  pull  out;  should  a  hard-roed  one  be  pre- 
ferred, do  not  choose  it  too  full.  In  cleaning,  take  off  the 
scales  as  in  the  last,  then  make  a  small  incision  in  the  belly, 
close  to  the  bladder;  pull  out  the  gills,  and  the  interior  will 
come  with  them;  should  any,  however,  remain,  take  it  out  of 
the  incision  without  breaking  the  gall  or  disturbing  the  roe; 
lay  it  in  spring  water  half  an  hour  to  disgorge,  then  dry  it  with 
a  cloth.  The  large  sea  carp,  some  of  which  weigh  from  thirty 
to  fifty  pounds,  are  not  worth  cooking. 

Carp,  Sauce  Matelote. 

Put  your  carp  in  a  small  oval  fish-kettle,  with  wine  and 
vegetables  as  in  next  recipe,  to  which  add  also  a  pint  of  water 
and  a  little  salt,  with  a  few  cloves  and  peppercorns;  put  the 
lid  upon  the  fish-kettle,  and  stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire  to 
stew  about  an  hour,  according  to  the  size;  when  done,  drain 
well,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  sauce  over  with 
a  matelote  sauce,  made  as  directed,  on  page  99,  or  caper  sauce, 
as  for  skate;  small  carp  are  very  good  flavored  bread-crumbed 
and  fried. 

Baked  Carp. 

Procure  a  good-sized  carp,  stuff  it,  then  put  it  into  a  baking- 
dish,  with  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  one  head  of 
celery,  and  a  good  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf; 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  69 

moisten  with  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
salt,  pepper  and  oil,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  about  two 
hours  to  bake;  try  if  done  with  a  knife,  which  is  the  case  if  the 
flesh  leaves  the  bone  easily;  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin; then  have  ready  the  following  sauce:  mince  a  large 
Spanish  onion  with  two  common  ones,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  three  spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  saute  rather  a  yel- 
low color,  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  and  one  spoonful  of 
flour,  mix  all  well  together,  add  a  pint  of  broth  (reserved  from 
some  soup)  or  water,  with  half  an  ounce  of  glaze,  or  half  a 
gill  of  brown  gravy,  or  a  few  drops  of  coloring;  boil  it  up, 
drain  the  stock  the  carp  was  cooked  in  from  the  vegetables, 
which  also  add  to  the  sauce;  boil  well  at  the  corner  of  the 
stove,  skim,  and  when  rather  thick  add  a  teaspoonful  of  Harvey 
sauce,  one  of  essence  of  anchovies,  twelve  pickled  mushrooms, 
and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  pour  all  the  liquor  drained  from 
the  fish  out  of  your  dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 
Stewed  Carp. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  carp  or  other  white  fish  into  strips,  and 
place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  cupful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  a 
sliced  carrot  and  a  minced  onion.  Add  half  a  pint  of  clear 
stock,  a  large  wineglassful  of  claret,  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  a 
clove,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Simmer  the  whole  for  an 
hour,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  capers  and  turn  out  the 
stewed  fish  carefully  over  some  slices  of  hot  toast  in  a  deep 
dish. 

Boiled  Crimped  Cod. 

Place  from  two  to  three  pounds  of  crimped  cod  carefully 
wiped  in  a  fish  kettle  with  sufficient  warm  water  to  just  cover 
it.  Add  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine  vinegar,  a  sliced  onion, 
a  few  peppercorns,  one  clove,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Let 
this  boil  up  quickly  and  then  simmer  for  about  five  minutes, 
or  until  the  fish  is  done. 

After  draining,  the  fish  should  be  dished  up  on  a  serviette 
and  may  be  served  with  any  sauce  that  is  preferred. 

Bacalao. 

Well  soak  one  pound  of  salt  cod,  then  boil  it  until  half 
cooked,  and  break  into  coarse  flakes.  Now  prepare  half  a 
pint  of  tomato  sauce,  made  of  stewed  tomatoes  mixed  with  a 
finely-minced  onion  fried  in  a  little  olive  oil,  and  a  pinch  of 
cinnamon,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Mix  this  sauce  with 
the  cod,  place  the  whole  in  an  earthenware  dish,  cover  with 
slices  of  bread  and  butter,  and  bake  until  well  done. 


70  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Crabs  and  Tomatoes. 

Take  one  pound  of  finely  chopped  crab  meat  and  mix  it 
with  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs, 
some  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt,  the  thinly-pared  rind  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  large  glass  of  sherry.  Stir  the  mixture 
thoroughly,  make  it  very  hot  in  the  oven,  and  serve  with  fried 
potatoes. 

Crab  au  Gratin. 

Take  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  the  meat  of  crabs,  mince 
finely,  adding  pepper,  salt,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese 
moistened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry.  Stir  these  into  half 
a  pint  of  white  stock,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Next  place 
slices  of  toast  in  a  baking  dish,  pour  the  mixture  over  them, 
and  cover  with  some  grated  cheese.  Brown  in  a  very  hot  oven 
and  serve  at  once. 

This  is  colloquially  known  in  France  as  "  Crab  in  the  style  of 
St.  Lawrence." 

Fried  Shrimps. 

Shell  one  and  a  half  dozen  good-sized  shrimps,  chop  them 
coarsely  and  fry  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  an  ounce  of 
minced  ham.  Add  at  once  a  cupful  of  boiling  white  stock  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  flavoring  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a  little 
minced  parsley. 

Pour  the  whole  over  some  squares  of  hot  toast  on  a  dish 
and  serve  at  once. 

Eels,  Fried. 

Cut  your  eels  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  dip  the  pieces 
into  flour,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  throw  them  into 
some  bread-crumbs;  fry  in  hot  lard  as  directed  for  fried  soles. 

Stewed   Eels,   Sauce   Matelote. 

Procure  as  large  eels  as  possible,  which  cut  into  pieces  three 
inches  long,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  onion,  a 
bouquet  of  two  bay  leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley,  six 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  two  of  water; 
place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  let  simmer  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  according  to  the  size  of  the  eels;  when 
done,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  dress  them  in  pyramid  upon  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  with  a  matelote  sauce  over,  made  as  directed 
on  page  99,  but  using  the  stock  your  eels  have  been  cooked  in 
to  make  the  sauce,  having  previously  well  boiled  it  to  extract  all 
the  fat. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  71 

Eels  a  la  Tartare. 

Fry  as  directed  above,  and  serve  on  some  tartare  sauce; 
or  partly  stew  first,  and,  when  cold,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and 
broil  gently. 

Spitchcocked  Eels 

in  some  parts  of  England,  are  cooked  with  the  skins  on.  They 
should  be  properly  cleaned,  and  split  down  the  back,  and  bone 
taken  out,  and  cut  into  pieces  of  about  four  inches  long;  egg 
the  inside,  and  throw  over  some  bread-crumbs,  in  which  have 
been  mixed  some  chopped  parsley,  a  little  dried  thyme,  and 
some  cayenne;  place  them  in  the  oven,  and  whilst  cooking  baste 
them  with  butter  in  which  some  essence  of  anchovies  has  been 
mixed.  The  time  they  take  cooking  depends  on  the  size,  but 
may  be  known  by  the  skin  turning  up. 

Conger  Eel 

is  little  appreciated  in  this  country,  although  amongst  the 
working-class  of  our  neighbors,  more  particularly  the  French, 
it  is  an  article  of  great  consumption.  If  alive,  its  head  should 
be  cut  off,  and  it  should  bleed  as  much  as  possible;  but  if  dead, 
the  pieces  should  be  put  into  lukewarm  water  to  disgorge 
previous  to  being  cooked.  The  young  fry  are  exceedingly 
good,  and  may  be  dressed  like  fresh-water  eels.  The  large 
ones  may  be  made  into  soup,  and  can  also  be  cooked  like 
sturgeon. 

Eels   on  the   Spit. 

Take  a  very  large  eel,  cut  it  into  short  pieces,  and  lard 
them  on  the  back  with  thin  strips  of  bacon.  Place  the  pieces 
of  eel  for  three  hours  in  pickle  made  of  oil,  sliced  onion,  sprigs 
of  parsley,  salt,  and  bay  leaves.  On  taking  them  out  place  the 
pieces  on  a  long  wooden  skewer,  separating  them  by  thin 
slices  of  bread.  Fasten  the  skewer  to  a  spit  and  cook  before 
the  fire,  basting  from  time  to  time  with  melted  butter. 

With  this  dish  should  be  served  a  sauce  made  in  the  follow- 
ing manner: — Mix  together  in  a  small  enameled  saucepan 
some  vinegar,  shallots,  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaves,  and  a  pinch 
of  pepper.  Let  them  soak  for  a  short  time,  and  then  add 
some  strong  beef  stock  thickened  with  a  little  flour.  Mix  well 
and  let  it  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Pass  the  sauce 
through  a  fine  strainer  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Flounders,  Water  Souchet. 
Procure  four  or  six  Thames  flounders,  trim  and  cut  in  halves ; 


72  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

put  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  scraped 
horse-radish,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  sugar  and  few  sprigs  of  fresh 
parsley;  place  over  the  fire,  boil  a  minute,  then  add  the  floun- 
ders, stew  ten  minutes,  take  them  out  and  place  in  a  dish  with- 
out a  napkin,  reduce  the  liquor  they  were  stewed  in  a  little, 
pour  over  and  serve. 

To  fry  flounders,  trim  them,  and  proceed  precisely  as  di- 
rected for  fried  soles ;  three  minutes  are  sufficient. 

Gurnets. 

Are  best  stuffed  and  baked.  Stuff  them  as  directed  for 
haddocks,  turn  them  round  in  the  same  manner,  lay  slices  of 
bacon  over,  cut  very  thin,  and  bake  half  an  hour  or  more  (ac- 
cording to  their  size)  in  a  hot  oven;  when  done,  dress  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  onions  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  one  of  vinegar,  place  over  the  fire  a  couple  of  min- 
utes, add  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
Harvey  sauce,  one  of  catsup,  and  two  of  water,  reduce  until 
rather  thick,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  cut  the  fillets  of  a 
good  anchovy  into  strips,  put  in  the  sauce,  which  pour  round 
the  fish,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Gurnet. 

You  may  boil  it  either  with  or  without  the  stuffing,  in  very 
salt  water;  it  will  require  rather  more  than  half  an  hour; 
serve  with  anchovy  sauce  separate.  The  remains  are  very 
good  to  re-warm. 

Haddock  and   Asparagus. 

Cut  a  large  haddock  into  moderately  thick  slices  and  dip 
each  into  egg  beaten  up  with  grated  nutmeg;  then  cover  with 
breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  butter  till  a  light  brown.  Remove 
the  tips  from  about  fifty  branches  of  asparagus,  and  boil  the 
rest  in  salted  water.  Place  the  boiled  asparagus  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  couple  of  rusks,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  half  a  pint  of  clear  stock.  Then  add  the  slices  of  fish  just 
fried,  and  the  asparagus  tips,  and  let  the  whole  stew  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  The  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little 
lemon  juice  are  often  added  to  this  dish. 

A  cheaper  version  may  be  made  by  using  cabbage  instead  of 
asparagus. 

Dublin  Bay  Haddock. 

This  is  a  fish  which  I  can  highly  recommend,  both  for  its 
firmness  and  lightness;  it  is  excellent  plain  boiled,  and  served 
with  a  cream  sauce,  or  any  other  fish  sauce.  But  the  better 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  73 

plan  is  to  cut  four  or  five  incisions  upon  each  side  of  the  fish, 
an  inch  deep,  then  put  it  into  a  deep  dish,  and  cover  well  with 
salt,  let  it  remain  about  two  hours,  then  put  into  boiling  water, 
to  simmer  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  if  a  fish  of  five  or  six 
pounds  in  weight.  Serve  on  a  napkin  garnished  with  plain 
boiled  parsnips  and  parsley,  with  egg  sauce  in  a  boat.  The 
common  haddocks  may  be  dressed  precisely  the  same. 

Baked  Haddock. 

Fill  the  interior  of  the  fish  with  veal  stuffing,  sew  it  up  with 
packthread,  and  truss  it  with  the  tail  in  its  mouth,  rub  a  piece 
of  butter  over  the  back,  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  it  over,  set 
it  on  a  baking-dish,  which  put  in  a  warmish  oven  to  bake;  if 
a  Dublin  Bay  haddock,  it  would  take  from  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  to  an  hour,  but  a  common  haddock  would  require 
but  half  an  hour.  The  better  plan  is  to  run  the  point  of  a 
knife  down  to  the  backbone,  from  which,  if  the  flesh  parts 
easily,  it  is  done;  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and 
serve  with  a  Beyrout  sauce,  or  any  other. 

Halibut. 

This  fish  is  rather  coarse,  but  very  surfeiting.  It  is  best  very 
fresh,  and  should  be  very  thick  and  not  in  spawn.  It  may  be 
•either  baked,  fried,  or  sauted  in  oil,  in  which  case  the  fillets 
should  not  be  thicker  than  one  inch. 

Herrings  Broiled,  Sauce  Dijon. 

The  delicacy  of  these  fish  prevent  their  being  dressed  in 
any  other  way  than  boiled  or  broiled;  they  certainly  can  be 
bread-crumbed  and  fried,  but  I  prefer  them  dressed  in  the 
following  way: 

Wipe  them  well  with  a  cloth,  and  cut  three  incisions  slant- 
wise upon  each  side,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  broil  slowly  over 
a  moderate  fire;  when  done,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  dress 
them  upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  the  fol- 
lowing sauce  in  a  boat: — Put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  of  French  mustard,  or  one  of 
English,  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt;  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  serve. 

Herrings,   Sauce   Dijon.     (Another  Method.) 
Procure  six  fresh  herrings,  trim  and  score,  dust  with  salt 
and  pepper,  roll  in  flour  and  grill  in  a  very  hot  oven.    When 
ready,   place   on   a   hot   well-buttered   dish    and   serve   with    a 
sauce  prepared  as   follows: — 


74  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  small  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  a  touch  of  cayenne,  to- 
gether with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Place  on  fire  and  stir 
well,  adding  meanwhile  one  good  teaspoonful  of  French  mus- 
tard, the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  teaspoonful  of  cream.  (If 
no  French  mustard  substitute  with  the  same  quantity  of  dis- 
solved English  mustard.)  When  very  hot  serve  either  by 
pouring  over  the  fish  or  separately  in  a  sauce-boat,  together 
with  plain  baked  potatoes.  A  cheap  dish  but  exquisite  enough 
for  a  gourmet. 

John  Dories,   Boulogne  Fashion. 

John  Dories,  though  not  very  handsome,  are  very  delicate 
eating;  choose  them  from  four  to  six  pounds  in  weight,  the 
thicker  the  better,  and  boil  as  directed  for  turbot;  one  of  the 
above  size  would  require  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  if 
any  remain,  dress  like  turbot,  or  with  caper  sauce,  etc. 

Mackerel 

are  generally  served  plain  boiled;  put  them  in  a  kettle  con- 
taining boiling  water,  well  salted,  let  simmer  nearly  half  an 
hour,  take  them  up,  drain  and  dish  them  upon  a  napkin;  serve 
melted  butter  in  a  boat,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  fennel,  boiling  it  a  few  minutes. 

Mackerel  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Split  the  mackerel  open  at  the  back,  making  it  quite  flat, 
season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  butter  it  all  over,  lay 
it  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  turning  it  when  half 
done,  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  place  it  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin;  then  put  six  ounces  of  fresh  butter  in 
a  stewpan,  which  place  over  a  sharp  fire  until  the  butter  be- 
comes black,  but  not  burnt,  when  throw  in  about  fifty  leaves 
of  chopped  parsley,  which  fry  crisp,  and  pour  over  the  fish; 
put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  common  vinegar  into  the  stewpan. 
which  boil  half  a  minute,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  pour 
this  also  over  the  fish,  which  put  into  the  oven  five  minutes, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

To   Stew  Mackerel. 

Take  off  the  heads,  the  fins,  and  tails,  and,  having  opened 
the  fish,  and  taken  out  all  the  hard  roes,  dry  them  with  a 
cloth,  and  dredge  them  lightly  with  flour;  place  three  or  four 
of  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  to  each  fish;  put  into  a  small  bowl  a  teacupful  of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  75 

water,  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  onions,  the  same  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  and  a  small  teacup- 
ful  of  ale  or  porter  (if  not  bitter).  Add  a  tablespoonful  of 
grated  bread-crust,  not  burnt,  but  a  light  brown;  pour  all  these 
ingredients  over  the  fish,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for  twenty 
minutes;  have  ready  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  and 
when  the  fish  is  sufficiently  done,  take  some  of  the  gravy 
and  mix  gradually  with  the  eggs,  and  pouring  them  on  the 
fish,  shake  the  stewpan  a  little  over  the  fire  to  thicken  the 
whole,  but  not  to  curdle  the  eggs;  the  soft  roes  added  are  an 
improvement;  have  ready  more  grated  crust,  and  having 
placed  the  fish  whole  in  the  dish,  shake  a  little  of  the  grated 
crust  over  the  whole,  so  as  to  make  it  of  a  handsome  brown. 
The  receipt  requires  to  be  carefully  followed.  If  the  gravy 
is  too  thick,  more  water  may  be  added;  also  a  glass  of  sherry, 
if  liked. 

Baked  Mackerel. 

Place  two  fresh  mackerel  in  an  enameled  stewpan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cider,  a  minced  onion,  and  a  little  nutmeg, 
parsley,  pepper,  and  salt.  Cover  closely  and  cook  gently  for 
half  an  hour.  Then  add  a  cupful  of  white  stock,  preferably 
made  of  veal  thickened  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  little  flour 
and  butter,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Make 
hot  again,  then  take  out  the  fish  carefully  and  place  in  a  bak- 
ing dish.  Strain  the  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  fish,  sprinkle  well 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  bake  until  lightly  browned. 

This  should  be  served  in  the  dish  in  which  it  has  been 
baked. 

Soyer  Pike  Quenelles  or  Souffles. 

This  method  of  employing  the  fish  called  pike  or  jack  is 
unique.  My  grandfather  was  the  inventor  of  this  method, 
which  is  specially  good  for  people  suffering  from  dyspepsia, 
or  delicate  digestions. 

Method. —  Half  a  pound  of  pike  flesh  free  of  bone  and  skin. 
Place  in  a  mortar  with  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  salt,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne,  half  a 
small  nutmeg,  grated,  one  ounce  of  butter.  Pound  together 
for  half  an  hour.  Now  introduce  half  a  pound  of  panades. 
Pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  or  very  fine  wire  sieve.  Place  all 
in  a  clear  mortar  and  pound  for  five  minutes. 

Previous  to  this,  prepare  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  beef 


76  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

suet  chopped  fine  without  adding  flour,  and  melt  it  in  a  double 
saucepan  or  bain  marie,  by  quietly  simmering  (not  boiling), 
taking  care  that  no  water  touches  it.  Strain  through  muslin 
into  a  large  bowl;  when  nearly  cold  whisk  continuously  until 
it  is  foamy  like  a  beaten  egg.  Introduce  this  in  three  portions, 
one  at  a  time,  into  the  mortar  mentioned  above.  Do  this 
quickly,  each  time  breaking  in  the  whole  of  a  raw  egg,  until 
the  whole  is  perfectly  smooth. 

As  a  means  for  securing  a  diversity  and  improvement 
a  little  chopped  parsley,  truffles,  or  mushrooms,  according  to 
taste  can  be  introduced  at  this  stage. 

Sprinkle  a  board  heavily  with  flour  and  pour  contents  of 
the  mortar  on  to  this.  Now  roll  flour  and  mixture  into  the 
size  and  shape  of  small  sausages. 

Have  ready  a  large  stewpan  with  one  gallon  of  boiling 
water,  into  which  a  good  handful  of  salt  has  been  thrown, 
and  drop  into  this  the  quenelles,  a  dozen  at  a  time.  The 
quenelles  will  at  first  sink  to  the  bottom;  when  they  rise  leave 
them  one  minute  without  boiling.  Remove  from  the  water 
with  a  fish-slice,  strain  on  a  napkin,  and  place  on  a  dish.  In 
this  way  they  will  keep  for  two  or  three  days. 

METHOD  OF  SERVING  THE  ABOVE 

Vol  au  Vent  Soyer.  Have  one  pint  of  brown  sauce  in  a 
stewpan  large  enough  to  hold  three  quarts,  add  a  few  sliced 
mushrooms,  a  few  slices  of  braised  sweetbread  or  a  few 
shrimps,  or  crayfish,  or  lobster,  together  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  Madeira  or  sherry.  If  the  sauce  is  too  thin  thicken  it  with 
a  little  arrowroot,  so  as  to  obtain  a  glossy  sauce.  Season  to 
taste. 

Put  half  a  dozen  quenelles  into  the  sauce  and  leave  at  the 
side  of  the  stove  to  keep  warm,  but  not  to  boil.  Have  your 
Vol  au  Vent  or  crouttes  on  a  very  hot  entree-dish  and  one 
minute  only  before  serving  put  the  sauce  containing  the  quen- 
elles on  a  full  fire  with  the  cover  on,  when  the  quenelles  will 
swell  in  diameter  to  the  size  of  a  golf-ball.  Pour  at  once 
in  the  croutte  on  dish,  as  the  quality  and  success  depend  on 
quick  serving.  See  that  hot  plates  are  on  the  table  waiting 
for  the  dish  to  appear.  This  is  most  important. 

When  using  white  sauce  proceed  in  the  same  way  as 
above.  Dilute  white  sauce  with  boiling  milk  or  white  fish 
stock.  If  no  fish  stock,  other  white  stock  will  do. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  77 

The  above  entails  a  lot  of  work,  but  it  is  well  worth  doing, 
and  having  been  once  done  comes  easily  afterwards.  In 
Lent  and  other  times  of  fasting,  by  omitting  stock,  etc.,  and 
using  only  fish,  this  is  very  nourishing  and  good  and  ac- 
ceptable to  a  rigid  Catholic. 

The  recipe  given  is  for  pike  quenelles  only,  but  any  kind 
of  fish  can  be  used  and  is  much  superior  to  any  other  known 
method. 

Red  Mullet  en  Papillote. 

Take  a  Soyer  paper-bag,  about  ten  inches  by  ten  inches  in 
size,  and  grease  it  well  inside,  top  and  bottom. 

Obtain  three  red  mullet,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
place  a  little  duxelle  on  both  sides  of  the  fishes.  Place  the 
fish  in  the  bag,  side  by  side,  throw  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
tomato  sauce,  a  few  mushrooms  (if  obtainable)  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Close  and  seal  the  bag,  insert  on 
grid  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate heat  (350°  Fahr.). 

Cooked  in  this  way  and  served  with  boiled  potatoes  these 
are  luscious. 

Red  Mullet  a  la  Voisin. 

Trim  and  score  two  red  mullet,  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Butter  a  dish  and  place  the  fish 
therein. 

Have  ready  a  Portugaise  made  as  follows :— Take  half  a 
shallot  and  fry  in  butter,  long  enough  to  warm  through  but 
not  to  color.  Add  to  it  four  small  tomatoes  from  which  skin 
and  pips  have  been  removed  and  allow  to  simmer  gently  for 
about  ten  minutes.  Put  this  mixture  on  top  of  the  fish,  sur- 
mounted by  a  few  slices  of  mushroom,  if  procurable. 

Now  grease  a  large  piece  of  paper  and  cover  over  all.  Put 
in  oven  for  twenty  minutes  (about  350°  Fahr.),  remove  the 
paper,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  chopped  parsley  and  serve  with  plain  baked  potato. 

Red  Mullets. 

Procure  two  red  mullets,  which  place  upon  a  strong  dish, 
not  too  large,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  onions,  parsley,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  salad-oil  over,  and  put  them  into 
a  warm  oven  for  half  an  hour;  then  put  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salad- 
oil,  stir  over  a  moderate  fire  until  getting  rather  yellowish, 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce 


78  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

or  melted  butter,  with  a  little  chopped  parsley;  reduce  over 
a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  becoming  rather  thick; 
when  the  mullets  are  done,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Red  Mullets  Saute  in  Butter. 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  pan;  when  melted,  put  in  one 
or  two  small  mullets,  and  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  ditto  of  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire  and  turn  carefully;  when  done,  dish  and  serve 
plain,  or  with  any  of  the  sauces  named  in  the  former  recipe. 

Perch 

do  not  grow  to  a  very  large  size,  four  pounds  being  con- 
sidered a  large  one.  When  fresh,  are  reddish  at  the  eyes 
and  gills.  These  fish,  having  a  great  objection  to  part  with 
their  scales,  should  be  scraped  immediately  they  are  dead, 
forming  the  fish  into  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  and  scraping 
with  an  oyster-knife;  open  the  belly,  take  out  the  interior,  pull 
away  the  gills,  and  wash  well.  When  large,  they  are  fre- 
quently boiled  with  the  scales  on,  which  are  taken  off  after- 
wards much  easier. 

Pike. 

A  middling-sized  one  weighing  about  five  pounds,  would 
be  best;  when  fresh,  the  eyes  must  be  very  transparent,  the 
scales  bluish,  and  not  dry  upon  the  back,  or  it  would  not  clean 
well.  The  dressing  is  generally  the  making  of  the  fish,  as 
regards  the  approbation  bestowed  upon  it.  To  clean  them, 
have  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  put  the  point  carefully  under  the 
scales  (without  piercing  the  skin)  at  the  tail  of  the  fish,  pass 
the  knife  gently  up  the  back  to  the  head,  dividing  the  scales 
from  the  skin  carefully;  you  may  then  take  off  the  whole  of 
the  scales  in  one  piece  (should  this  process  appear  too  difficult, 
they  may  be  scraped). 

Clean  as  directed  above,  stuff  the  interior  as  directed  for 
haddocks,  only  adding  some  fillets  of  anchovies  and  chopped 
lemon-peel  with  it;  curl  round  and  put  in  a  baking-dish,  spread 
a  little  butter  all  over,  put  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  about 
half  done  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs upon  it;  a  middling-sized  pike  will  take  about  an  hour; 
but  that  according  to  the  size  and  the  heat  of  the  oven;  when 
done,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  sauce  round 
as  directed  for  baked  haddock. 

Pike,  Sauce  Matelote. 
Cook  a  pike  exactly  as  in  the  last,  dress  it  upon  a  dish 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  79 

with'out  a  napkin,  and  sauce  with  a  matelote  sauce  over,  made 
as  directed  on  page  99. 

This  fish  may  also  be  served  with  caper  sauce,  as  directed 
for  the  skate;  the  smaller  ones  are  the  best;  the  remains  of 
a  pike  placed  in  the  oven  the  next  day,  with  a  cover  over  it 
and  a  little  more  sauce  added,  are  very  nice. 

Pike  with  Cream. 

Cut  three  pounds  of  pike  into  slices,  and  place  these  in  a 
baking  dish,  together  with  five  ounces  of  butter,  a  pint  of  sour 
cream,  two  onions  cut  into  thick  slices,  two  or  three  bay 
leaves,  and  a  little  salt.  Place  in  a  quick  oven  and  bake  for 
twenty  minutes,  basting  with  the  mixture,  and  after  each  bast- 
ing sprinkle  with  grated  bread-crumbs.  Immediately  before 
serving  remove  the  slices  of  onion  and  the  bay  leaves,  and 
pour  over  the  fish  a  little  very  hot  stock  and  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  juice. 

Any   other   fresh  fish   may  be   prepared  in  the   same  way. 

Boiled  Salmon 

is  only  good  by  putting  salmon  in  boiling  water  with  suffi- 
cient salt,  i.e.,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
Bring  to  boil  and  let  simmer  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter. 
This  for  a  fish  twelve  pounds  in  weight. 

Another  method  is  to  cook  in  a  Soyer  paper-bag  with  one 
quart  of  cold  water  and  three  ounces  of  salt  in  oven  for  one 
hour  with  moderate  heat  —  300°  Fahr. 

Hollandaise  and  white  sauce,  also  shrimp   sauce  or  lobster 
sauce  are  the  best  for  this  kind  of  salmon. 
Broiled  Salmon. 

The  fish  to  be  broiled  should  be  cut  in  slices  of  about  one 
to  one  and  a  half  inches  in  thickness.  Sprinkle  with  salt 
and  roll  in  clarified  butter  or  oil,  grill  over  a  brisk  fire  for 
about  twenty-five  minutes. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  or  anchovy  butter  makes  excellent  sauces 
for  broiled  salmon. 

Kedgeree  of  Salmon. 

This  is  composed  of  one  pound  of  boiled  salmon,  cut  into 
small  pieces.  Remove  the  skin  and  bones;  three  or  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  into  small  pieces;  one  pound  of  well-boiled 
pilaff  rice;  and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  flavored 
with  a  small  amount  of  curry. 

Mix  together  and  fill  into  a  well-buttered  mold  which 
should  then  be  stood  in  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water.  After 


8o  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

covering  the  top  of  mold  with  a  piece  of  paper,  place  the 
stewpan  with  its  contents  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. It  is  then  ready  to  serve  by  turning  out  of  mold  on 
to  a  hot  dish. 

Salmon  Cutlets  or  Cotellettes  de  Saumon. 

Make  ready  some  forcemeat  for  salmon  of  a  quantity  suffi- 
cient for  the  number  of  cutlets  to  be  made  and  rub  through 
a  coarse  sieve. 

Procure  some  molds  shaped  like  cutlets,  well  butter  the 
sides  and  bottom  and  fill  with  a  layer  half  an  inch  thick  of 
forcemeat. 

Now  fill  the  molds  to  within  a  little  of  their  brims,  with  a 
cold  Salpicon  of  mushrooms  and  truffles,  thickened  by  means 
of  sauce  and  cover  all  with  a  further  layer  of  forcemeat. 

Place  the  molds  in  a  hot  oven  for  six  minutes  in  order 
to  poach  the  cutlets.  Then  turn  out  the  molds,  and  sprinkle 
the  cutlets  with  a  mixture  of  egg  and  bread-crumbs  which 
may  then  be  fried  in  clarified  butter. 

When  cooked,  arrange  the  cutlets  round  a  dish,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve.  Shrimp  sauce,  or  puree  of  green 
peas  or  celery  are  excellent  with  this  dish. 

Coulibiac  de  Saumon. 

Procure  two  pounds  of  brioche  paste,  unsweetened.  Take 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  small  salmon  collops  and  stiffen  in 
butter.  Also  prepare  two  or  three  ounces  of  mushrooms,  to- 
gether with  an  onion  chopped  small  (both  to  be  fried  in  but- 
ter) ;  half  a  pound  of  semolina  or  rice  cooked  in  consomme, 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  small;  one  pound  of  vesiga 
chopped  up  and  cooked  in  consomme.  To  cook  the  vesiga 
take  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  dried  vesiga,  soak  in  cold  water 
for  four  hours,  after  which  cook  for  three  and  a  half  hours 
in  white  consomme.  Roll  out  the  brioche  paste  into  strips 
twelve  inches  long,  eight  inches  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  On  these  spread,  successively,  layers  of  semolina  (or 
rice),  collops  of  salmon,  chopped  vesiga,  eggs,  mushrooms  and 
onion,  and  lastly  a  layer  of  semolina  (or  rice).  Moisten  the 
edges  of  the  paste  and  bring  the  two  ends  together  with  the 
above  layers  of  material  within.  Then  pinch  the  remaining 
edges  together  and  turn  over  the  join  just  made.  Over  all  put 
another  strip  of  paste  and  set  the  paste  on  a  baking-tin  to 
rise  for  about  forty-five  minutes. 

Now  spread  a  thin  coating  of  melted  butter  over  the  top, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  81 

sprinkle  with  raspings  and  make  two  holes  in  the  top  of  the 
paste  to  allow  the  vapors  to  escape.  (This  can  be  done  by 
curling  round  the  finger  two  thin  pieces  of  cardboard  or  stiff 
paper  and  inserting  same  in  the  paste,  like  small  chimneys.) 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour. 

Stewed  Salmon. 

Take  three  pounds  of  fresh  salmon,  and  after  carefully 
scaling  and  washing,  lard  the  fish  finely  and  place  it  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  clear  stock,  two  carrots,  and  two 
onions  minced,  a  little  thyme,  three  bay  leaves,  a  pinch  of 
grated  nutmeg,  a  few  peppercorns  and  salt  to  taste.  Simmer 
very  gently  for  about  two  hours  and  then  remove  the  fish. 
Strain  the  sauce  —  carefully  removing  any  fat  —  and  reduce 
it  to  a  glaze,  which  should  be  poured  over  the  fish. 

The  salmon  is  usually  served  upon  a  puree  of  green  peas, 
asparagus,  or  any  other  vegetable  that  is  preferred. 

Salmon   Croquettes. 

Tinned  fish  may  be  used  for  this  dish,  though  of  course 
fresh  salmon  is  better. 

Heat  half  a  pint  of  good  white  stock  and  stir  into  it  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  the  juice  of  an 
onion,  a  little  parsley,  pepper  and  salt.  Remove  the  bones 
and  skin  from  the  salmon,  chop  finely,  and  stir  sufficient  into 
the  stock  to  make  a  moderately  stiff  paste.  When  the  mix- 
ture is  cool,  make  it  into  croquettes  which  should  be  dipped 
in  egg  and  bread-crumbs  and  fried  until  a  golden  brown  color. 
Drain  all  fat  carefully  from  them  and  serve  with  a  border  of 
parsley.  Tartare  sauce  is  often  served  with  this  dish. 
Baked  Shad. 

Split  open  the  fish  and  stuff  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  its 
roe,  some  mushrooms,  bread-crumbs,  butter,  parsley,  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  chopped  and  thoroughly  mixed  together.  Bind  or 
sew  up  the  fish  and  bake  it  in  an  earthenware  dish  well  but- 
tered for  half  an  hour,  basting  with  white  stock  to  which 
has  been  added  lemon  juice,  sherry,  and  onion. 
Coulibiac  of  Salmon. 

Have  ready  two  pounds  of  ordinary  brioche  paste.  Stiffen 
in  butter  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  small  salmon  collops,  and 
prepare  three  ounces  of  mushrooms  and  one  chopped  onion 
(both  of  which  should  be  fried  in  butter),  half  pound  of 
cooked  semolina,  two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped,  and  one  pound 
of  vesiga  roughly  chopped  and  cooked  in  consomme. 


82  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

For  this  weight  of  cooked  vesiga  about  two  and  a  half 
ounces  of  dried  vesiga  will  be  needed,  which  should  be  soaked 
in  cold  water  for  four  hours,  and  then  cooked  for  three  and 
half  hours  in  white  consomme  or  water.  Roll  the  brioche 
paste  into  rectangles  twelve  inches  long  and  eight  inches  wide, 
and  spread  on  in  successive  layers  the  semolina,  the  collops 
of  salmon,  the  chopped  vesiga,  the  eggs,  the  mushrooms,  and 
the  onion,  and  finish  with  a  layer  of  semolina.  Moisten  the 
edges  of  the  paste  and  draw  the  longest  ends  of  it  towards 
each  other  over  the  layers  of  garnish,  and  join  so  as  to  en- 
close all. 

Place  the  coulibiac  thus  formed  on  a  baking-tray,  taking 
care  that  the  joined  parts  of  the  paste  are  underneath. 

Set  the  paste  to  rise  for  forty-five  minutes,  sprinkle  some 
melted  butter  with  the  coulibiac,  sprinkle  with  fine  raspings, 
•make  a  slit  in  the  top  for  the  escape  of  vapor,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  one  hour.  Fill  the  coulibiac  with  freshly 
melted  butter  when  withdrawing  it  from  the  oven. 

Darne  de  Saumon  a  Chambord. 

Take  a  piece  or  "  darne "  of  salmon  cut  from  the  middle 
of  the  fish,  of  a  size  sufficient  for  the  number  of  people  it  is 
intended  for. 

Moisten  in  the  proportion  of  two-thirds  of  good  red  wine 
and  one-third  of  fish  stock,  of  a  quantity  sufficient  to  cover 
no  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  depth  of  the  darne.  Bring 
to  the  boil,  then  set  to  braise  gently,  and  glaze  the  darne  at 
the  last  moment.  Garnish  with  quenelles  of  truffled  force- 
meat for  fish,  molded  with  a  spoon;  truffles  fashioned  like 
olives;  pieces  of  milt  dipped  in  Villeroy  sauce,  treated 
ct  I'Anglaise  and  fried  when  about  to  dish  up:  small  gudgeon 
or  smelts  similarly  to  the  milt,  and  trussed  crayfish  cooked  in 
court-bouillon. 

The  sauce  is  a  Genevoise  made  from  the  reduced  cooking 
liquor  of  the  darne. 

Dish  up  by  surrounding  the  darne  with  the  garnishes,  ar- 
ranging them  tastefully  and  pierce  with  two  hatelets  each 
garnished  with  a  small  truffle,  an  ornamental  quenelle  and  a 
crayfish. 

The  sauce  to  be  served  separately. 

Salmon  a  la  Daumont 
Poach  the  darne  in  salt  water. 
Dish  up  by  surrounding  the  darne  with  medium-seized  mush- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  83 

rooms  stewed  in  butter  and  garnished  with  shrimps  and  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  Nantua  sauce;  a  small  round  quenelles 
of  mousseline  forcemeat  for  fish,  decorated  with  truffles,  and 
some  slices  of  milt  treated  a  I'Anglaise,  and  fried  when  about 
to  dish  up.  Serve  Nantua  sauce  separately. 

Salmon  Slices  a  Lucullus. 

Skin  one  side  of  the  slice,  lard  it  with  truffles,  and  braise 
it  in  Chablis. 

Garnish  with  small  shrimp  or  salmon  patties,  small  mous- 
selines  of  oysters,  poached  in  dariole-molds. 

The  sauce  should  consist  of  the  braising  liquor  of  the  darne 
finished  by  means  of  ordinary  and  shrimp  butter  in  equal  quan- 
tities. iTo  be  served  separately. 

Salmon  Slices  a  Nesselrode. 

Remove  all  bones.  Stuff  with  raw  lobster  forcemeat  stif- 
fened by  means  of  a  little  whiting  forcemeat.  Line  a  well- 
buttered,  round,  raised-pie  mold  with  a  thin  layer  of  raised- 
pie  paste  (this  is  made*  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
flour,  three  ounces  of  lard,  one  egg,  and  a  little  lukewarm 
water),  prepared  in  advance  and  made  rather  stiff.  Garnish 
the  inside  of  the  pie  with  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  place  the 
fish  upright  in  it.  Cover  the  pie  with  a  layer  of  the  paste, 
joining  the  edges  with  those  of  the  lining,  make  a  slit  in  the 
top  for  vapor  to  escape,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When  the 
pie  is  almost  baked,  pierce  it  with  a  needle;  if  withdrawn 
without  any  of  the  stuffing  adhering  to  it,  the  pie  will  be 
ready  to  be  taken  out  of  the  oven.  Now  turn  it  upside  down 
in  order  to  drain  away  the  liquid  fats,  but  do  not  let  it  drop 
from  the  mold.  Then  put  it  on  a  dish  and  remove  the  mold. 
Break  the  crust  at  the  dining-table. 

Serve  an  American  sauce,  which  should  be  prepared  from 
the  remains  of  the  lobsters  used  in  making  the  mousse,  finished 
with  cream,  and  garnished  with  fine  oysters,  poached  when 
about  to  dish  up. 

Salmon  Slice  a  Royale. 

Braise  the  fish  in  Chablis. 

Garnish  with  small  quenelles  of  forcemeat  for  fish,  small 
mushrooms,  slices  of  truffle,  and  little  balls  of  potato,  raised 
by  a  large  round  spoon  cutter  and  cooked  a  I'Anglaise. 

'Serve   Normande   sauce   separtely. 

Mousseline  Alexandra. 

Make  a   forcemeat  of  salmon,  mold  the  quenelles  and  place 


84  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

them  separately  in  buttered  saucepan.  Put  a  small  thin  slice 
of  salmon  on  each,  and  poach  them  in  a  very  moderate  oven, 
keeping  the  lid  on  the  pan. 

Drain  on  a  napkin,  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  and  put  a  slice 
of  truffle  upon  each  slice  of  salmon,  and  coat  with  Mornay 
sauce. 

Garnish  with  small  asparagus-heads  just  before  dishing  up. 

Cold  Salmon. 

Salmon  which  is  intended  to  be  served  cold,  should  either 
be  cooked  whole  or  in  large  pieces,  in  plain  salted  water,  and 
cooled  in  the  same  water.  Salmon  cooked  whole  has  a  better 
flavor  and  not  so  dry  as  when  cut  in  pieces,  though  the  latter 
way  tends  to  better  appearance. 

In  dishing  cold  salmon  remove  the  skin  so  that  the  fish 
may  be  easily  decorated,  though  gourmets  will  always  prefer 
salmon  served  in  its  natural  state. 

To  decorate,  use  pieces  of  cucumber,  anchovy  fillets,  capers, 
slices  of  tomato  and  curled-leaf  parsley. 

Darne  de  Saumon  a  la  Royale. 

Drain  and  dry  the  salmon,  remove  the  skin  from  one  side, 
and  coat  the  bared  fillets  with  a  layer  of  a  preparation  of 
mousse  de  saumon,  putting  more  over  the  middle  than  the 
sides.  Coat  the  layer  of  mousse  with  mayonnaise  sauce  thick- 
ened with  fish  jelly  and  leave  to  set. 

Upon  the  dish  which  is  to  be  sent  to  the  table  put  some  clear 
fish  jelly  to  set;  then  place  the  salmon  on  this  jelly  and  sur- 
round it  with  a  border  of  Montpellier  butter,  using  a  piping- 
bag.  Decorate  the  center  with  truffles,  and  encircle  it  with  the 
royale  crowns  made  from  anchovy  fillets. 

Saumon  Froid  en  Bellevue. 

Skin  the  salmon,  set  the  piece  upright  upon  the  belly  side, 
and  decorate  the  fillets  with  pieces  of  truffles,  poached  white 
of  egg,  chervil  leaves,  and  tarragon. 

Coat  the  garnish  with  a  little  melted  fish  aspic  so  as  to 
fix  it.  Then  sprinkle  the  piece  several  times  with  melted  aspic 
jelly,  so  as  to  cover  it  with  a  transparent  veil.  Place  the  fish 
prepared  in  a  glass  dish  shaped  to  the  fish  and  pour  over 
enough  clear  melted  jelly  to  fill  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Salmon  Froid  a  la  Norvegienne. 

Skin  and  decorate  the  salmon  or  darne  and  glaze  it  with 
aspic  jelly. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  85 

Let  a  coating  of  jelly  set  upon  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 
Upon  this  jelly  place  a  cushion  of  carved  rice  the  same  shape 
as  the  fish.  Set  the  fish  decorated  and  glazed  upon  this  cush- 
ion, then  place  on  a  row  of  fine  prawns  cleared  of  their  ab- 
dominal shell. 

Surround  with  a  garnish  of  small  cucumber  slices  garnished 
dome-fashion  with  a  puree  of  smoked  salmon;  hard-boiled 
eggs  glazed  with  aspic,  small  tomatoes  or  halved  ones  peeled, 
stuck  with  a  bit  of  parsley  stalk,  and  small  barquettes  of 
cooked  and  pickled  beetroot,  garnished  with  shrimps'  tails  co- 
hered with  mayonnaise. 

Serve  mayonnaise  sauce  separately. 

Medallion  de  Saumon. 

Cut  some  small  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  from  a  fillet  of 
salmon.  Arrange  them  on  a  buttered  tray;  poach  and  dry 
in  a  moderate  oven,  then  cool  them.  Trim  them  neatly  with 
an  even  cutter  either  round  or  oval.  Coat  them,  according 
to  their  purpose,  either  with  mayonnaise  sauce  thickened  with 
jelly,  or  a  white  pink  or  green  chaudfroid  sauce.  Decorate 
it  according  to  fancy  and  glaze  with  cold  melted  aspic  jelly. 

Serve  with  a  cold  sauce. 

Salmon  Mayonnaise. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  salad-bowl  with  moderately  sea- 
soned lettuce.  Cover  with  cold,  cooked  and  flaked  salmon, 
thoroughly  freed  from  all  skin  and  bones. 

Coat  with  mayonnaise  sauce  and  decorate  with  anchovy 
fillets,  capers,  stoned  olives,  small  slices  or  quarters  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  and  small  hearts  of  lettuce. 

Salade  de  Saumon. 

This  is  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  the  above.  The  deco- 
rating garnish  is  placed  with  the  salmon  and  the  whole  is 
seasoned  in  precisely  the  same  way  as  an  ordinary  salad,  add- 
ing two  tablespoonfuls  of  mayonnaise  in  mixing  up. 

Skate. 

Procure  two  or  three  slices,  tie  them  with  string  to  keep 
the  shape  in  boiling,  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
in  which  you  have  put  a  good  handful  of  salt;  boil  gently 
about  twenty  minutes  (have  ready  also  a  piece  of  the  liver, 
which  boil  with  them)  ;  when  done,  drain  well,  and  put  them 
upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin;  put  three  parts  of  a  pint  of 
melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when 
quite  hot  add  a  wineglassful  of  capers,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


86  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Skate  au  Beurre  Noir. 

Boil  a  piece  of  skate  as  directed  in  the  last;  when  done, 
drain  it  well,  put  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  proceed 
exactly  as  directed  for  mackerel. 

Skate  may  also  be  served  upon  a  napkin,  with  a  boat  of 
well-seasoned  melted  butter,  to  which  you  have  added  a  spoon- 
ful of  Harvey  sauce  and  one  of  anchovy. 

To  Fry  Smelts. 

Dry  them  in  a  cloth  and  dip  them  in  flour;  then  have  half 
an  ounce  of  butter  or  clear  fat  melted  in  a  bowl,  into  which 
break  the  yolk  of  two  eggs,  with  which  rub  the  smelts  over 
with  a  brush,  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  very  hot  lard, 
dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with 
shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

Stuffed   Smelts. 

Make  a  forcemeat  of  minced  oysters,  mushrooms,  bread- 
crumbs and  butter,  with  herbs  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  with 
this  stuff  a  dozen  and  a  half  large  smelts  from  which  the 
bones  have  previously  been  removed.  Lay  them  in  a  baking 
dish  and  pour  over  them  half  a  pint  of  good  white  stock  or 
milk  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
little  minced  onion.  Bake  for  half  an  hour  and  garnish  with 
parsley  before  serving. 

*  Soles,  Fried. 

Have  about  four  pounds  of  lard  or  clean  fat  in  a  small 
fish-kettle,  which  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  cut  off  the  fins 
of  the  sole,  and  dip  it  into  flour,  shake  part  of  the  flour  off, 
have  an  egg  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  with  which  brush  the 
fish  all  over,  and  cover  it  with  bread-crumbs;  ascertain  if  the 
lard  is  hot,  by  throwing  in  a  few  bread-crumbs;  it  will  hiss 
if  sufficiently  hot,  put  in  the  fish,  which  will  require  nearly  ten 
minutes'  cooking,  and  ought  to  be  perfectly  crisp,  drain  it  on 
a  cloth,  dish  upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve 
shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

The  above  quantity  of  lard  or  fat,  if  carefully  used  and  not 
burnt,  would  do  for  several  occasions,  by  straining  it  off  each 
time  after  using.  All  kinds  of  fish,  such  as  eels,  smelts,  whit- 
ings, flounders,  perch,  gudgeons,  etc.,  are  fried  precisely  in  the 
same  manner. 

*  The  American  Flounder  or  Fluke  is  the  same  as  the  English  Sole. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  87 

Soles,  Saute  in  Oil. 

Trim  the  fish  well,  dip  it  into  a  couple  of  eggs,  well  beaten, 
put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil  in  a  saucepan,  place  it  over 
the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  put  in  your  sole,  let  it  remain  five 
minutes,  turn  over,  and1  saute  upon  the  other  side;  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  will  cook  it,  according  to  the  size;  serve  upon 
a  napkin  without  sauce;  they  are  excellent  cold. 

Sole  a  la  Meuniere. 

Cut  the  fins  off  a  sole,  and  make  four  incisions  across  it 
upon  each  side  with  a  knife,  then  rub  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt  and  chopped  onions  well  into  it,  dip  in  flour,  and  broil  it 
over  a  slow  fire;  also  have  ready  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
mixed  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  cayenne  which 
rub  over  the  sole,  previously  laid  in  a  hot  dish,  without  a 
napkin,  turn  the  fish  over  once  or  twice,  put  it  in  the  oven  a 
minute,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Soles  Aux  Fines  Herbes. 

Put  a  spoonful  of  chopped  shallots  into  a  saucepan,  with 
a  glass  of  sherry  and  an  ounce  of  butter,  place  the  sole  in, 
pour  nearly  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  over  it,  or  four 
spoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  or  water,  upon  which  sprinkle  some 
chopped  parsley,  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour, 
take  the  sole  out  of  the  pan,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin, reduce  the  sauce  that  is  in  the  pan  over  a  sharp  fire, 
add  a  little  Harvey  sauce  and  essence  of  anchovy,  pour  over 
•the  sole,  and  serve. 

Soles  may  also  be  plain  boiled,  using  the  same  precautions 
as  directed  for  turbot,  and  serve  without  a  napkin,  and  a  cream 
sauce  poured  over;  or  it  may  be  served  upon  a  napkin  gar- 
nished with  parsley,  and  a  little  shrimp  sauce,  or  plain  melted 
butter,  in  a  boat. 

Plain  Soles. 

Soles  may  be  served  whole  or  filleted,  and  a  large  number 
of  recipes  given  for  the  whole  fish  may  be  adapted  to  its 
fillets. 

As  a  rule,  the  fillets  are  more  frequently  found  upon  the 
menu,  as  they  dish  more  elegantly,  and  are  more  easily  served 
than  the  whole  fish. 

Sole  Arlesienne. 

Trim  the  sole,  put  it  in  a  deep  earthenware  dish,  the  bottom 
of  which  should  be  well-buttered,  pour  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
fumet  over  it  and  poach  gently. 


88  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Send  it  to  the  table  with  a  plate  containing  separate  heaps 
of  one  finely-chopped  onion,  a  little  powdered  thyme  and  two 
finely-crushed  biscottes. 

Place  the  dish  on  a  chafer,  and  taking  off  the  sole,  raise 
the  fillets  therefrom,  and  place  them  between  two  hot  plates. 
Now  add  to  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  sole  the  chopped  onion, 
which  leave  to  cook  for  a  few  moments  the  powdered  thyme 
and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  biscotte  raspings  to  allow  of 
thickening  the  whole.  At  the  last  moment  add  six  raw  oys- 
ters and  one  ounce  of  butter  divided  into  small  pieces. 

As  soon  as  the  oysters  are  stiff  return  the  fillets  of  sole  to 
the  dish,  sprinkle  with  the  sauce,  and  then  serve  them  very 
hot. 

REMARK:  —  The  sole  is  always  laid  on  the  dish  with  its 
opened  side  undermost. 

Sole  Mornay. 

Lay  the  sole  on  a  buttered  dish;  sprinkle  a  little  fish  fumet 
over  it,  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  divided  into  small 
pieces.  Poach  gently.  Coat  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with 
Mornay  sauce;  drain  the  fish,  lay  it  on  the  prepared  dish; 
cover  it  with  the  same  sauce;  sprinkle  with  grated  Gruyere 
and  Parmesan  and  put  in  a  very  hot  oven  and  gratin. 

Sole  Provengaux. 

Poach  the  sole  in  fish  fumet  and  butter,  in  the  same  way 
as  the  preceding  recipe;  drain  it,  and  place  on  a  dish,  cover 
with  Chablis  sauce,  sprinkle  liberally  with  grated  cheese  and 
gratin  quickly. 

Sole  Colbert. 

On  the  upper  side  of  the  fish  separate  the  fillets  from  the 
spine,  and  break  the  latter  in  several  pieces.  Dip  the  sole  in 
milk,  roll  it  in  flour;  treat  it  a  I'Anglaise,  and  roll  the  separ- 
ated fillets  back  a  little,  so  that  they  may  be  quite  free  from 
bones. 

Fry;  drain  on  a  piece  of  linen,  remove  the  bones,  and  fill 
the  resulting  space  with  butter  a  la  Maitre  d'HoteL 

Serve   the  sole  on  a  folded  serviette  very  hot. 

Sole  a  la  Daumont. 

Bone  the  sole.  Garnish  the  inside  with  whiting  forcemeat 
finished  with  shrimp  butter  and  re-arrange  the  fillets  to  give 
a  natural  and  untouched  appearance  to  the  fish. 

Poach  on  a  buttered  dish  with  one-sixth  pint  of  white 
wine,  the  same  quantity  of  the  cooking-liquor  of  mushrooms 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  89 

and  one  ounce  of  butter  divided  into  small  lumps.  Drain 
and  dish  the  sole,  and  cover  it  with  vin  blanc  sauce.  Place 
around  it  four  mushrooms  stewed  in  butter  and  garnished 
with  shrimps  in  Nantua  sauce;  six  small  round  quenelles  of 
whiting  forcemeat  with  cream,  decked  with  truffles. 

Sole  Duglere. 

Put  the  sole  in  a  buttered  dish  with  one  and  a  half  ounces 
of  chopped  onion,  half  a  pound  of  peeled  tomatoes  (pips  must 
be  removed),  a  little  roughly  chopped  parsley,  a  pinch  of 
salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine. 

Set  to  poach  gently  and  dish  the  sole.  Reduce  the  cooking 
liquor;  thicken  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Bechamel  sauce; 
complete  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon 
juice,  and  cover  the  fish  with  this  sauce. 

Sole  Grillee. 

Season  the  sole;  sprinkle  on  some  oil,  and  grill  the  fish 
gently.  Serve  it,  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon,  on  a  very 
hot  dish. 

Sole  Grille  a  1'Americaine. 

This  sole  may  be  either  grilled  or  poached,  almost  dry,  in 
butter  and  lemon  juice.  It  may  also  be  prepared  in  fillets. 
Serve  it  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  surround  it  at  the  last  mo- 
ment with  twelve  oysters  poached  in  a  little  boiling  Harvey 
sauce. 

Cover    the    sole    immediately    with    very    hot    fried    bread- 
crumbs and  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley. 
Sole  Fermiere. 

Place  the  sole  on  a  buttered  dish  with  a  few  herbs.  Add  a 
gill  of  good  red  wine  and  poach  gently  with  the  lid  on.  Dish 
up;  strain  the  cooking  liquor,  and  reduce  it  to  half;  thicken  it 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  and  finish  the  sauce 
with  one  ounce  of  butter. 

Surround  the  sole  with  a  border  of  mushrooms  sliced  raw 
and  tossed  in  butter.  Pour  the  prepared  sauce  over  the  sole 
and  set  to  glaze  quickly. 

Sole  Hollandaise. 

Break  the  spine  of  the  sole  by  folding  it  over  in  several 
places.  Place  the  fish  in  a  deep  dish;  cover  it  with  slightly 
salted  water;  set  to  boil  and  then  poach  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes  with  the  lid  on.  Drain  and  dish  on  a  napkin  with 
green  parsley  all  round.  Serve  at  the  same  time  some  plainly 
boiled  potatoes,  and  some  melted  butter. 


90  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Sole  Florentine. 

Poach  the  sole  in  a  fish  fumet  and  butter.  Spread  a  layer 
of  shredded  spinach,  stewed  in  butter,  on  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  place  the  sole  thereon;  cover  it  with  Mornay  sauce; 
sprinkle  with  a  little  grated  cheese,  and  set  to  glaze  quickly 
in  the  oven,  or  at  a  salamander. 

Sole  au  Gratin. 

Partly  separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  on  the  upper  side 
of  the  fish.  Season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  butter. 
Place  the  sole  on  a  well-buttered  gratin  dish,  on  the  bottom 
of  which  a  pinch  of  parsley  has  been  sprinkled,  together  with 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Duxelle  sauce;  not  too  thick. 

Place  six  cooked  mushrooms  on  the  sole  and  surround  it 
with  one  or  two  raw  mushrooms  cut  into  thin  slices.  Add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine;  cover  the  sole  with  Duxelle 
sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese,  sprinkle  with 
fine  raspings  followed  my  melted  butter,  and  set  to  gratin. 

When  ready,  sprinkle  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  a 
pinch  of  chopped  parsley  upon  it  and  serve  at  once. 

Sole  Sur  Le  Plat. 

Separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  on  the  upper  side,  and 
slip  a  piece  of  butter  under  each  fillet. 

Place  the  sole  on  a  well-buttered  dish,  moisten  with  one 
gill  of  the  cooking-liquor  of  fish,  adding  a  few  drops  of  lemon 
juice.  Cook  in  the  oven  until  the  liquor  has  acquired  by  re- 
duction the  consistency  of  a  thick  sauce  which  covers  the  sole 
in  a  glossy  coat. 

Sole   Ambassadeur. 

Poach  the  sole  in  white  wine  and  one  ounce  of  butter  cut 
into  small  pieces.  Drain  the  sole  and  dish  it,  surrounding  it 
with  quenelles  of  whiting  forcemeat,  poached  oysters,  six 
small  cooked  and  white  mushrooms,  four  small  truffles  turned 
to  the  shape  of  olives. 

Cover  the  sole  and  garnish  with  a  Normande  sauce,  finished 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  cream. 

Sole  Portugaise. 

Poach  the  sole  in  lemon  juice  and  the  cooking-liquor  of 
fish.  Drain,  dish  and  surround  with  a  garnish  of  two  medium- 
sized  skinned  tomatoes,  minced,  cooked  in  butter,  combined 
with  minced  and  cooked  mushrooms,  and  a  large  pinch  of 
chopped  shallots. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  91 

Coat  the  sole  with  white  wine  sauce.  Set  to  glaze,  sprinkle 
the  garnish  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  when  taking  the 
sole  from  the  oven,  and  serve. 

Fish  on  the  Plate. 

Place  in  a  shallow  earthenware  cooking  vessel  a  little  but- 
ter, some  parsley,  shallots  and  mushrooms,  all  finely  minced, 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Upon  this  place  a  sole  previously 
cleaned  and  skinned,  and  cover  it  with  more  butter  and  season- 
ing. Add  a  glass  of  white  wine  or  a  dessertspoonful  of  brandy 
and  a  little  good  white  stock.  Place  the  cover  on  the  cook- 
ing vessel  and,  if  practicable,  adopt  the  French  method  of 
piling  glowing  coal  on  the  top  of  the  vessel  in  order  that  the 
fish  may  be  be  equally  heated  from  all  sides.  When  suffi- 
ciently cooked  most  of  the  sauce  will  be  absorbed  by  the  fish. 

In  France  this  dish  is  often  served  in  the  vessel  in  which 
it  has  been  cooked;  but  in  any  case  it  should  be  brought  to 
the  table  as  hot  as  possible. 

Economical  Mode  of  Cooking  Sturgeon. 
Take  a  piece  of  sturgeon  about  two  pounds  in  weight  and 
place  it  beneath  a  piece  of  meat  which  is  to  be  baked  on  a 
stand  in  a  dish;  with  the  sturgeon  put  a  little  water,  salt, 
pepper,  etc.,  and  a  little  chopped  shallot  may  be  used;  you 
can  also  put  potatoes  round  it.  Peas,  if  in  season,  are  a  good 
accompaniment,  with  melted  butter. 

To  Roast  Sturgeon. 

Take  the  tail  part,  skin  and  bone  it;  fill  the  part  where  the 
bone  comes  from  with  some  stuffing,  as  for  a  fillet  of  veal; 
put  butter  and  paper  round  it,  and  tie  it  up  like  a  fillet  of  veal; 
roast,  and  serve  it  with  melted  butter  and  gravy. 

They  may  be  cooked  precisely  as  veal,  in  large  or  small 
pieces. 

Stewed  Tench, 

Put  two  onions,  a  carrot,  and  turnip,  cut  in  slices,  into 
a  stewpan,  or  very  small  fish-kettle,  with  a  good  bouquet  of 
parsley,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  one  bay-leaf,  six  cloves,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  two  glasses  of 
sherry;  lay  your  tench  over  (it  will  require  four  for  a  dish, 
and  they  may  be  either  cooked  whole,  or  each  one  cut  into 
two  or  three  pieces),  add  a  pint  of  water,  cover  down  close, 
and  stew  rather  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  about  half  an 
hour;  take  them  out,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  dress  upon  a  dish 


92  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a  sauce  over,  made  as  directed 
for  sauce  matelote,  cream  sauce,  or  Bey  rout. 

Tench  with  Anchovy  Butter. 

Cook  the  tench  as  in  the  last,  but  they  may  be  plain  boiled 
in  salt  and  water;  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  then  put 
six  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  one  of  milk; 
place  it  upon  the  fire,  and,  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling, 
add  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter;  shake  it  round  over  the  fire, 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  when  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Salmon  Trout. 

In  its  many  preparations  salmon-trout  may  be  replaced  by 
salmon,  and  all  recipes  relating  to  the  former  may  be  adapted 
to  the  latter.  As  its  size  is  less  than  the  salmon's,  it  is  very 
rarely  cut  into  slices,  being  usually  served  whole. 

Truite  a  la  Cambaceres. 

Select  a  trout;  clean  it  and  remove  its  gills  without  opening 
it  in  the  region  of  the  belly.  Skin  it  on  one  side,  starting 
at  a  distance  of  one  inch  from  the  head  and  finishing  with 
two  and  a  half  inches  from  the  tail.  Place  on  cut  truffles 
and  the  red  part  only  of  carrots,  cut  into  rods  and  previously 
cooked. 

Spread  a  napkin,  lay  the  trout,  belly  under,  upon  it,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  separate  the  two  fillets  from  the  bones,  be- 
ginning at  the  head  and  proceeding  straight  down  to  the  tail. 

The  spine  being  thus  liberated,  sever  it  at  both  ends,  and 
withdraw  it,  together  with  all  the  adhering  ventral  bones. 
The  intestines  are  then  removed  and  the  inside  of  the  fish  is 
well  cleaned,  the  fillets  are  seasoned  on  their  insides,  and  the 
trout  is  stuffed  with  a  mousseline  forcemeat  of  lobster.  The 
two  fillets  are  then  drawn  together  and  covered  with  thin  slices 
of  bacon  and  laid  on  the  drainer  of  the  fish-kettle  and  braised 
in  Chablis. 

When  the  fish  is  done,  remove  the  slices  of  bacon,  glaze, 
and  dish  it  up.  Surround  it  with  alternate  heaps  of  mush- 
rooms tossed  in  butter  and  shrimps. 

Serve  separately  a  Bechamel  sauce,  combined  with  the  brais- 
ing-liquor  of  the  trout,  strained  and  reduced  and  finished  with 
anchovy  butter. 

Preparation  de  la  Mousse  de  Tomates. 

This  mousse  is  really  a  bavarois  without  sugar.  Cook  two 
pounds  of  tomato  (cleared  of  skin  and  seeds  and  roughly 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  93 

chopped)  in  two  ounces  of  butter.  When  the  pulp  is  well 
mixed  with  the  butter  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
Bechamel  thickened  with  ten  leaves  of  gelatine  per  quart  of 
the  sauce. 

Rub  through  sieve;  and  add  to  the  preparation  when  cold, 
half  of  its  volume  of  whipped  cream.  It  is  better  not  to  whip 
the  cream  well,  say,  not  more  than  half.  Season  to  taste  with 
lemon-juice,  and  if  necessary  a  little  salt  and  cayenne. 

Crevettes  Marie. 

Prepare  a  trout  mousse,  mold  it  in  egg-molds,  and  garnish 
the  center  with  trimmed  prawns'  tails.  Let  the  mousses  set; 
then  turn  them  out  of  the  molds  and  lay  in  a  deep  entree-dish. 
Between  each  place  a  few  prawns,  the  tails  of  which  should 
be  shelled.  Cover  the  whole,  slowly,  with  some  good  half- 
melted  jelly,  add  a  few  sprigs  of  chervil,  and  fill  up  the  dish 
with  jelly,  so  as  to  completely  cover  the  mousses. 

Trout 

have  different  names  in  various  parts  of  Great  Britain,  but 
there  is  the  common  trout,  the  white  trout,  and  the  sea  trout; 
the  white  trout  never  grows  very  large,  but  the  sea  trout  does, 
and  is  of  a  very  fine  flavor. 

RIVER  TROUT,  when  fresh,  have  the  most  beautiful  skin 
imaginable,  the  golden  and  sometimes  silvery  tint  of  which 
makes  me  term  it  the  sister  fish  of  the  red  (sea)  mullet. 
Should  the  gills  be  pink  instead  of  red,  and  the  skin  dry 
(which  is  frequently  the  case  on  the  second  day),  they  may 
still  be  eatable,  but  their  succulence  goes  with  their  beauty. 
Clean  them  as  directed  for  salmon. 

Trout  a  la  Twickenham. 

When  you  have  cleaned  your  trout,  put  them  into  a  kettle 
of  boiling  water  to  which  you  have  added  a  good  handful 
of  salt,  and  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar;  boil  gently  about  twenty 
minutes,  or  according  to  their  size,  dress  upon  a  napkin,  and 
serve  melted  butter,  into  which  you  have  put  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  gherkins,  two  sprigs  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper,  in  a  boat. 

The  remains  of  trout,  salmon,  or  mackerel,  are  excellent 
pickled :  —  Put  three  onions  in  slices  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  one  turnip,  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  and 
bayleaf,  pass  them  five  minutes  over  the  fire,  add  a  pint  of 
water,  and  a  pint  of  vinegar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one 
of  pepper,  boil  until  the  onions  are  tender,  then  strain  it  through 


94  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

a  sieve  over  the  fish;  it  will  keep  some  time  if  required,  and 
then  do  to  pickle  more  fish  by  boiling  over  again. 

Trout  a  la  Burton. 

Boil  the  trout  as  in  the  last;  then  put  half  a  pint  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  place 
it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  add  a 
liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
cream  (dress  the  fish  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin),  put  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
into  the  sauce;  shake  round  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil;  sauce  over  the  fish,  sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  and 
serve. 

Stuffed  Trout. 

Place  in  an  enameled  saucepan  a  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar, 
a  quart  of  water,  one  onion,  parsnip  and  carrot  sliced,  a  heart 
of  celery  with  a  little  thyme,  parsley,  and  salt,  two  ounces 
of  butter  and  two  or  three  bay  leaves.  Reduce  these  ingre- 
dients to  a  strong  broth  by  cooking  rapidly  over  a  quick  fire, 
and  then  strain  and  put  aside  to  cool.  Now  make  a  forcemeat 
of  six  small  mushrooms,  two  ounces  of  fresh  truffles,  a  little 
minced  herbs,  and  sufficient  breadcrumb  and  butter,  and  with 
these  stuff  a  large  trout  previously  well  scaled  and  washed. 
Tie  it  up  and  simmer  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  the 
broth.  Then  remove  it,  wipe  off  any  moisture,  dip  first  in 
beaten  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  thoroughly. 
Freshly-made  tomato  sauce  is  a  good  adjunct  to  this  dish. 

Almost  any  other  fresh  fish  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Tunny. 

They  are  exceedingly  good  salted,  or  pickled  like  salmon, 
which  it  resembles  in  flavor  when  thus  prepared;  when  raw, 
its  flesh  is  very  red,  but  turns  pale  in  boiling.  The  best  way 
to  cook  it  when  fresh  is  to  cut  it  in  slices,  and  proceed  as  with 
salmon. 

Turbot. 

To  cook  it,  cut  an  incision  in  the  back,  rub  it  well  with  a 
good  handful  of  salt,  and  then  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  set 
it  in  a  turbot  kettle,  well  covered  with  cold  water,  in  which 
you  have  put  a  good  handful  of  salt;  place  it  over  the  fire, 
and  as  soon  as  boiling,  put  it  at  the  side  (where  it  must  not 
be  allowed  to  more  than  simmer  very  slowly,  or  the  fish  would 
have  a  very  unsightly  appearance).  A  turbot  of  ten  pounds 
weight  will  take  about  an  hour  to  cook  after  it  has  boiled 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  95 

(but,  to  be  certain,  ascertain  whether  the  flesh  will  leave 
the  bone  easily)  ;  take  it  out  of  the  water,  let  it  remain  a 
minute  upon  the  drainer,  and  serve  upon  a  napkin,  with  a  few 
sprigs  of  fresh  parsley  round,  and  lobster  sauce,  or  shrimp 
sauce,  in  a  boat. 

Turbot,  a  la  Frangaise. 

Boil  your  turbot  as  in  the  last,  but  dress  it  upon  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  sauce  over  with  a  thick  caper  sauce  (having 
made  a  border  of  small  new  potatoes),  sprinkle  a  few  capers 
over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Turbot  a  la  Creme 

is  made  from  the  remains  of  a  turbot  left  from  a  previous 
dinner;  pick  all  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  which  warm  in  salt 
and  water,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce:  —  Put  one 
ounce  of  flour  into  a  stewpan,  to  which  add  by  degrees  a  quart 
of  milk,  mixing  it  very  smoothly;  then  add  two  peeled  shallots, 
a  bouquet  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme  tied 
together,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
quarter  ditto  of  pepper;  place  it  over  the  fire,  stirring  until 
it  forms  a  thickish  sauce;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  stir  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  pass  it  through  a 
sieve;  lay  a  little  of  it  upon  the  bottom  of  a  convenient-sized 
dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  fish,  season  lightly  with  a  little  white 
pepper  and  salt,  then  another  layer  of  sauce,  proceeding  thus 
until  the  fish  is  all  used,  finishing  with  sauce;  sprinkle  a  few 
breadcrumbs  over,  and  put  it  into  a  warm  oven  half  an  hour, 
brown  with  the  salamander,  and  serve  upon  the  dish  it  is  baked 
on.  Any  remains  of  boiled  fish  may  be  dressed  the  same  way. 

Stewed  Turbot. 

Place  three  or  four  pounds  of  turbot  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  a  glass  of  marsala  or  port  wine,  and  a  small 
bunch  of  herbs.  To  this  add  a  small  tumblerful  of  water,  or 
fish  stock  if  procurable.  Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  place 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  the  whole  and  cook  very  slowly 
in  the  oven  or  on  the  hob.  When  the  fish  is  quite  tender  take 
it  out  and  keep  hot. 

Now  slice  about  a  dozen  button  mushrooms  and  add  them  to 
the  fish  liquor.  Simmer  till  the  mushrooms  are  done,  then  re- 
move the  herbs,  skim  carefully,  and  add  one  gill  of  cream  and 
about  the  same  quantity  of  Neapolitan  sauce.  Heat  up  again 
and  pour  it  over  the  fish  before  serving. 


9<5  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Stewed  macaroni,  with  which  a  little  Parmesan  cheese  has 
been  mixed,  is  usually  served  with  this  dish. 

To  make  the  Neapolitan  sauce  chop  up  any  odds  and  ends 
of  fish  trimmings  and  bones  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  minced  bacon,  and  some  slices 
of  carrots  and  onions.  Stir  until  well  browned  and  then  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  When  this  also  is  browned,  add  half 
a  pint  of  good  stock,  a  glass  of  Madeira  or  sherry  and  a  little 
tomato  sauce.  After  simmering  for  another  five  minutes  pass 
the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  boil  up  again  in  a  fresh  sauce- 
pan. 

Whitebait. 

Although  always  ready  and  willing  to  partake  of  a  dish  of 
this  sweet  little  fish  when  dining-out  or  lunching  at  some  fa- 
vorite restaurant,  the  average  housewife  rarely,  if  ever,  essays 
to  cook  the  dish  at  home,  being  under  the  impression  that  it  is 
beyond  her  powers.  I  hope  to  prove  that  this  idea  is  erroneous 
and  can  promise  that  if  my  instructions  are  faithfully  carried 
out,  the  simplicity  of  the  operations  and  excellent  results  will 
make  such  an  appeal  that  whitebait  will,  in  future,  often  figure 
on  the  menus  of  quite  ordinary  homes. 

PROCEDURE. —  Take  a  pint  of  whitebait  and  place  in  a  large 
bowl  of  cold  water,  to  which  ice  has  been  added.  (It  is  a  good 
plan  to  stand  the  bowl  on  ice  if  that  can  be  managed.) 

Now  place  two  clean  cloths  on  a  table,  side  by  side.  On  one 
of  these  place  a  heap  (about  three  pounds)  of  best  white  flour. 
Have  your  frying  fat  (lard  is  the  best)  smoking  hot  on  the 
fire. 

Now  take  a  handful  of  the  whitebait,  shake  it  free  of  water, 
and  sprinkle  the  fish  on  top  of  the  flour  heap. 

Put  your  frying-basket  on  the  empty  cloth.  Now  take  up, 
by  its  four  corners,  the  cloth  with  the  flour  and  fish  and  tip 
out  its  contents  into  the  frying-basket,  placing  the  emptied 
cloth  back  in  position  on  the  table.  Now  shake  the  basket 
gently  until,  the  flour  having  fallen  to  the  cloth  beneath,  only 
the  fish  are  left. 

Immerse  the  basket  with  fish  in  the  boiling  fat  and  cook  for 
two  minutes,  giving  the  basket  an  occasional  shake.  At  the 
end  of  this  time,  lift  basket,  allow  fat  to  drain  for  a  moment 
and  then  tip  out  fish  on  to  a  large  flat  dish  (very  hot)  upon 
which  a  sheet  of  white  paper  has  been  previously  placed.  Re- 
peat these  operations  (always  standing  the  empty  frying- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  97 

basket  on  that  cloth  which  has  no  flour  upon  it)  until  all  the 
whitebait  has  been  cooked. 

When  it  is  time  to  serve,  replace  all  the  whitebait  in  the 
frying-basket  and  plunge  into  the  boiling  fat  for  a  further  two 
minutes.  Drain  free  of  fat,  and  tip  out  whitebait  on  to  a  hot 
dish,  previously  covered  with  a  clean  white  napkin.  Garnish 
with  quarters  of  lemon  and  fried  parsley  sprigs  and  serve 
smoking  hot,  together  with  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  and 
butter. 

Deviled  Whitebait 

is  prepared  exactly  as  above  with  the  addition  of  a  seasoning 
of  cayenne  pepper  and  salt. 

Whitebait     (Another  Method.) 

Put  them  in  a  cloth,  which  shake  gently  so  as  to  dry  them; 
then  place  them  in  some  very  fine  bread-crumbs  and  flour 
mixed;  toss  them  lightly  with  the  hands,  take  them  out  im- 
mediately, and  put  them  in  a  wire  basket,  and  fry  them  in  hot 
lard;  one  minute  will  cook  them;  turn  them  out  on  a  cloth, 
sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and  serve  very  hot.  Should  you 
not  have  a  wire  basket,  sprinkle  them  into  the  pan,  and  as 
soon  as  they  rise  take  them  out. 

Fried  Whiting. 

The  whiting  is  generally  skinned,  and  the  tail  turned  round 
and  fixed  into  the  mouth;  dip  it  first  into  flour,  then  egg  over 
and  dip  it  into  breadcrumbs,  fry  as  directed  for  the  sole;  for 
whiting  aux  fines  herbes,  proceed  as  directed  for  sole  aux 
fines  herbes.  I  prefer  the  whiting  fried  with  their  skins  on, 
merely  dipping  them  in  flour. 

Whiting  au  Gratin. 

Put  a  good  spoonful  of  chopped  onions  upon  a  strong  earthen 
dish,  with  a  glass  of  wine,  season  the  whiting  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  put  it  in  the  dish,  sprinkle  some  chopped  pars- 
ley and  chopped  mushrooms  over,  and  pour  over  half  a  pint  of 
anchovy  sauce,  over  which  sprinkle  some  brown  breadcrumbs, 
grated  from  the  crust  of  bread,  place  it  in  a  warm  oven  for 
half  an  hour;  it  requires  to  be  nicely  browned;  serve  upon  the 
dish  you  have  cooked  it  in. 

Broiled  Fish. 

Clean  carefully  and  split  open  any  large  fish  and  place  it 
in  a  deep  dish,  covering  with  a  marinade  of  vinegar,  oil,  minced 
onion,  pepper,  salt  and  herbs.  Let  it  stand  for  at  least  an  hour 


98  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

in  a  cold  place,   turning  the   fish  over  several  times.    When 
ready  to  cook  drain  the  fish  carefully,  dip  it  first  into  bread- 
crumbs, and  broil  carefully  until  well  browned. 
Tartare  sauce  goes  well  with  this  dish. 

Fish  Chartreuse. 

Take  any  remains  of  cold  fish,  break  it  into  flakes,  and 
moisten  with  cream,  seasoning  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 
Have  ready  some  mashed  potatoes  and  sufficient  hard-boiled 
eggs.  Now  take  a  well-buttered  mold  and  fill  it  alternately 
with  layers  of  mashed  potato,  flaked  fish,  and  hard-boiled  egg 
cut  into  thick  slices.  Let  it  steam  from  twenty  to  thirty  min- 
utes, according  to  the  size  of  the  mold  and  serve  very  hot. 

Fish  Stew. 

Place  in  a  casserole,  or  shallow  earthenware  cooking  vessel, 
a  sole,  fillets  of  turbot,  brill,  or  almost  any  other  white  fish, 
and  add  twenty  shelled  mussels  with  a  little  of  their  liquor, 
and  a  few  heads  of  small  button  mushrooms.  When  almost 
cooked  drain  off  the  sauce,  arrange  the  mussels  and  mushrooms 
round  the  fish,  strain  the  sauce  and  thicken  it  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg.  If  there  is  not  sufficient  sauce  add  a  little  strong 
clear  stock  thickened  with  butter  and  flour.  Replace  the  cover 
on  the  vessel,  let  it  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes  longer,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Another  method  is  to  strain  off  the  sauce  entirely  and  re- 
place it  with  a  brown  sauce  made  by  adding  clear  stock  butter 
to  a  little  melted  butter  thickened  with  flour. 

Fish  Salad. 

This  is  a  capital  recipe  for  utilizing  odds  and  ends  of  fish. 

Flake  two  cupfuls  of  any  kind  of  cold  boiled  fish  and  add 
half  a  pound  of  picked  and  chopped  shrimps.  Stir  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  capers,  a  little  pepper,  celery  seed,  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  A  little  cayenne  or  a  minced  green 
chili  may  be  added  if  pungency  it  not  disliked.  Next,  mix 
with  these  just  enough  mayonnaise  dressing  to  make  the  whole 
slightly  moist,  and  serve  with  lettuce  leaves.  Hard-boiled  eggs 
in  slices,  beetroot  cut  in  patterns,  and  scraps  of  aspic  jelly 
may  be  used  as  a  garnish. 

Fish  Klosh. 

Mince  an  ounce  of  ham  or  bacon  with  a  shallot  or  small 
onion  and  fry  in  an  ounce  of  butter  until  just  cooked.  Next 
stir  in  an  ounce  of  flour,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
let  the  whole  boil  gently  for  five  minutes. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  99 

Mix  this  with  one  egg  and  half  a  pound  of  any  cold  fish 
finely  flaked,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Spread  the 
mixture  on  a  plate  and  put  it  aside.  When  quite  cold  mold 
the  mixture  into  small  balls  and  poach  them  for  five  or  six 
minutes  in  boiling  water  or  fish  stock. 

Serve  with  anchovy  sauce  poured  over  them. 

Fish  Matelote. 

Slice  two  pounds  of  any  kind  of  fresh  white  fish  —  it  is  bet- 
ter to  have  several  kinds  mixed  —  and  place  in  a  frying  pan 
with  twenty  very  small  white  onions  and  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter. Fry  until  the  whole  is  a  golden  brown.  Next  place  in  a 
saucepan,  or  better  still,  in  an  earthenware  cooking  pot,  with 
six  sliced  mushrooms,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  sprinkling 
of  pepper  and  salt,  the  juice  of  half  a  small  lemon,  and  a  bunch 
of  herbs.  Add  half  a  pint  each  of  clear  stock  and  red  wine, 
and  simmer  the  whole  for  half  an  hour.  Add  more  seasoning 
if  required,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

This  somewhat  resembles  the  famous  Bouillabaisse  of  South- 
ern France. 

Fried  Frogs'  Legs. 

The  thighs  of  the  edible  frog,  which  is  a  large  variety  found 
in  certain  parts  of  England  as  well  as  on  the  Continent,  are 
regarded  as  a  great  delicacy  both  in  France  and  America,  and 
bear  a  certain  resemblance  to  a  very  young  chicken.  The 
ordinary  frog  is  just  as  good,  but  owing  to  its  small  size  the 
amount  of  flesh  on  the  legs  is  insignificant. 

The  frog's  legs  must  be  carefully  skinned,  immersed  in  milk 
for  a  few  minutes,  next  sprinkled  with  pepper  and  salt,  rolled 
in  flour,  and  then  fried  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  fat. 

As  they  are  apt  to  have  a  slightly  fishy  taste,  a  little  onion 
or  minced  garlic  is  usually  cooked  with  them. 

Snails  in  Shells. 

Although  snails  are  not  commonly  eaten  in  England,  yet  the 
large  Roman  variety  properly  prepared  is  by  no  means  to  be 
despised,  and  is  a  very  popular  dish  in  many  districts  of  France 
and  other  parts  of  the  Continent.  The  ordinary  garden  snail 
will  serve  the  purpose,  but  the  Roman  variety  is  much  larger 
and  is  supposed  to  possess  a  better  flavor. 

Throw  the  snails  into  boiling  water  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  twenty  minutes,  and  then  remove  them  from  their  shells 
and  let  them  boil  for  another  ten  minutes  in  well-salted  water, 
stirring  them  about  briskly  in  order  to  clean  them.  At  the 


ioo  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

same  time  the  shells  must  be  thoroughly  cleaned  with  hot  water. 
Now  mince  finely  a  few  button  mushrooms,  some  parsley,  shal- 
lots, and  a  little  garlic  —  or  onion,  if  it  is  preferred  —  and 
work  into  a  paste  with  fresh  butter  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 
Put  a  little  of  this  mixture  into  the  shell,  then  replace  the 
snail  and  fill  the  mouth  of  the  shell  with  more  of  the  paste. 
Lay  them  one  by  one  upon  a  cooking  plate,  into  which  a  little 
white  wine  has  been  poured,  being  careful  that  the  mouth  of 
each  shell  is  upwards.  Turn  another  plate  over  the  whole 
and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  very  hot. 

Another  method  is  to  stew  the  cleaned  snails  —  without  their 
shells  —  in  equal  parts  of  strong  stock  and  white  wine  with  a 
few  mushrooms  and  a  little  parsley.  Immediately  before  serv- 
ing, the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs  should  be  well  stirred  in. 

French  Anglers'  Way  of  Stewing  Fish. 

Take  about  four  pounds  or  less  of  all  kinds  of  fish,  that  is, 
carp,  pike,  trout,  tench,  eels,  etc.,  or  any  one  of  them,  cut 
them  into  medium-sized  pieces,  no  matter  the  size  of  the 
fish  —  let  the  pieces  be  of  equal  size;  put  them  in  a  black  pot 
or  stewpan,  season  over  with  nearly  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
half  one  of  pepper,  half  one  of  sugar,  four  good-sized  onions, 
sliced  thin,  add  a  half-bottle  of  common  French  wine,  or  four 
glasses  of  port  or  sherry,  half  a  pint  of  water;  set  it  on  the  fire 
to  stew,  gently  tossing  it  now  and  then;  when  tender,  which 
you  may  easily  ascertain  by  feeling  with  your  finger  the  dif- 
ferent pieces,  mix  a  spoonful  of  flour  with  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, which  put  bit  by  bit  in  the  pan,  move  it  round  by  shaking 
the  pan,  not  with  any  spoon;  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  and 
serve,  dishing  the  fish  in  pyramid,  sauce  over;  if  the  sauce  is 
too  thin,  reduce  it  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon; 
taste;  if  it  is  highly  seasoned,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme  or  bay- 
leaf  may  be  added.  Some  of  the  fish  may  be  done  sooner  than 
the  others;  if  so,  take  them  out  first,  and  keep  warm  until  all 
are  done.  The  motive  of  mixing  fish,  is  that  it  is  supposed  the 
flavor  of  all  together  is  finer  than  one  alone.  Conger  eel  is 
also  done  in  this  way. 

Melted  Butter. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  butter,  not  too  hard,  also 
a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  both  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  without  putting  it  on  the  fire;  when  forming  a  smooth 
paste,  add  to  it  a  little  more  than  half  a  pint  of  water;  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  not  too  full,  the.  sixth  part  that  of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  101 

pepper;  set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  round  continually  until  on  the 
point  of  boiling;  take  it  off,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  brown  vine- 
gar, then  add  one  ounce  more  of  fresh  butter,  which  stir  in 
your  sauce  till  melted,  then  use  where  required;  a  little  nut- 
meg grated  may  be  introduced;  it  ought,  when  done,  to  adhere 
lightly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  but  transparent,  not  pasty; 
it  may  also,  if  required,  be  passed  through  a  sieve.  If  wanted 
plainer,  the  last  butter  may  be  omitted. 

Anchovy  Sauce. 

Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as  in  the  last,  but 
omit  the  salt,  and  add  three  good  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of 
anchovies. 

Fennel  Sauce. 

This  is  a  sauce  principally  used  for  boiled  mackerel.  Make 
the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as  in  the  last,  to  which  add 
a  good  tablespoonful  of  chopped  fennel;  it  is  usually  served 
in  a  boat. 

Egg  Sauce. 

is  generally  served  with  salt  fish  or  haddock.  Boil  six  eggs 
ten  minutes,  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  them  in  pieces  about 
the  size  of  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  parts  of 
a  pint  of  melted  butter,  add  an  ounce  more  fresh  butter,  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt;  keep  the  stewpan  moving  round  over  the 
fire  until  the  whole  is  very  hot,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 

Shrimp  Sauce. 

Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as  before,  to  which 
add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of  shrimps  but  omitting 
the  salt;  add  half  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 
If  no  essence  of  shrimps,  some  anchovy  sauce  may  be  served 
with  shrimps  in  it  as  a  substitute. 

SHRIMP  SAUCE  is  also  very  good  as  follows:  —  Pound  half 
a  pint  of  shrimps,  skins  and  all,  in  a  mortar,  and  boil  them  ten 
minutes  in  half  a  pint  of  water;  pass  the  liquor  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  a  stewpan,  and  add  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of 
two  walnuts,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  good  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  stir  it  round  over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of 
boiling;  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  water;  season  with  a 
little  cayenne  and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies;  serve 
very  hot;  a  few  picked  shrimps  might  also  be  served  in  it. 

Lobster  Sauce. 
Put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  cut 


102  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

up  a  small-sized  lobster  into  dice,  make  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  lobster  butter  with  the  spawn,  as  directed;  when  the  melted 
butter  is  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  the  lobster  butter,  stir 
the  sauce  round  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  season 
with  a  little  essence  of  anchovies,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper;  pass  it 
through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  and  add  the  flesh  of 
the  lobster;  when  hot,  it  is  ready  to  serve  where  required. 
This  sauce  must  be  quite  red;  if  no  red  spawn  in  the  lobster, 
use  live  spawn. 

New  and  Economical  Lobster  Sauce. 

Should  you  require  to  use  the  solid  flesh  of  a  lobster  for 
salad,  or  any  other  purpose,  pound  the  soft  part  and  shell 
together  (in  a  mortar)  very  fine,  which  put  into  a  stewpan, 
covered  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water;  place  it  over  the  fire  to 
simmer  for  ten  minutes;  then  pass  the  liquor  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  a  bowl;  put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan, 
into  which  rub  (cold)  a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  the 
liquor  from  the  lobster,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  the 
point  of  boiling;  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  and  add  a  piece 
of  anchovy  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut;  or,  if  any  red  spawn 
in  the  lobster,  mix  it  with  butter,  as  in  the  last,  and  add  it, 
with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  just  before  serving.  An  an- 
chovy pounded  with  the  lobster  shells  would  be  an  improve- 
ment, and  part  of  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  might  be  served  in 
the  sauce. 

Lobster  Sauce  a  la  Creme. 

Cut  a  small  lobster  into  slices  the  size  of  half-crown  pieces, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan;  pound  the  soft  and  white  parts  with 
an  ounce  of  butter,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  pour  ten  spoon- 
fuls of  melted  butter,  and  two  of  cream,  over  the  slices  in  the 
stewpan,  add  half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a 
quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a  little  cayenne;  warm  gently, 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  the  butter  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream;  shake  round  over  the  fire  until 
quite  hot,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Oyster  Sauce. 

Mix  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces 
of  flour,  then  blanch  and  beard  three  dozen  oysters,  put  the 
oysters  into  another  stewpan,  add  beards  and  liquor  to  the  flour 
and  butter  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  two  cloves,  half  a  blade 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  103 

of  mace,  and  six  peppercorns;  place  it  over  the  fire,  keep  stir- 
ring, and  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  es- 
sence of  anchovies,  and  one  of  Harvey  sauce;  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  over  the  oysters;  make  the  whole  very  hot  without 
boiling,  and  serve.  A  less  quantity  may  be  made,  using  less 
proportions. 

Another  Method. 

Put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  liquor 
and  beards  of  three  dozen  oysters  (as  above),  six  peppercorns, 
two  cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace;  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then 
add  a  spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  a  little  cayenne  and  salt 
if  required;  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  over  the  oysters,  as 
in  the  last. 

A  Plainer  Method. 

Blanch  three  dozen  of  oysters,  which  again  put  into  the 
stewpan,  with  their  liquor  (after  having  detached  the  beards)  ; 
add  six  peppercorns  and  half  a  blade  of  mace;  place  them 
over  the  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  simmer,  add  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  have  mixed  suffi- 
cient flour  to  form  a  paste,  breaking  it  in  four  or  five  pieces; 
shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the 
point  of  boiling,  and  becoming  thick,  add  half  a  gill  of  milk, 
or  more  if  required;  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies;  serve  very  hot. 

Mussel  Sauce. 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  oyster  sauce,  using  only  the 
liquor  of  the  mussels  (not  the  beards)  instead  of  the  oysters, 
and  serving  the  mussels  in  the  sauce;  about  four  dozen  would 
be  sufficient. 

Cream  Sauce. 

Put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  with 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little 
white  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  hard  fresh  butter, 
place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  commence  stirring 
with  a  wooden  spoon  (taking  it  from  the  fire  now  and  then 
when  getting  too  hot),  until  the  butter  has  gradually  melted 
and  thickened  with  the  eggs — (great  care  must  be  exercised, 
for  if  it  should  become  too  hot,  the  eggs  would  curdle,  and 
render  the  sauce  useless)  ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  melted  but- 
ter; stir  altogether  over  the  fire,  without  permitting  it  to  boil; 
pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan;  when  wanted, 


104  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

stir  it  over  the  fire  until  hot.    This  sauce  may  be  served  with 
any  description  of  boiled  fish. 

Matelote  Sauce. 

For  about  a  pound  slice  of  salmon  make  the  following 
quantity  of  sauce:  —  Peel  thirty  button  onions,  and  put  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  in  a  quart-size  stewpan,  place  it  over 
a  sharp  fire,  and  when  melted  and  getting  brown,  add  a  piece 
of  butter  (the  size  of  two  walnuts)  and  the  onions,  toss  them 
over  now  and  then  until  rather  brown,  then  add  a  glass  of 
sherry;  let  it  boil,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  and 
a  gill  of  broth;  simmer  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  until  the 
onions  are  quite  tender;  skim  it  well,  and  add  a  few  mush- 
rooms, if  at  hand;  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  and  sauce 
over  any  kind  of  fish  where  described.  The  addition  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies  is  an  improvement.  Use 
where  directed. 

Matelote  Sauce  Simplified. 

Proceed  as  above  respecting  the  onions,  only  add  a  fourth 
more  butter,  and  fry  them  a  little  browner;  then  add  a  glass 
of  sherry,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour,  which  stir  round 
gently  with  a  small  wooden  spoon,  add  to  it  about  a  pint  of 
water,  stir  now  and  then  till  boiling,  add  three  saltspoonfuls 
of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  pepper,  and  a  bouquet  garni;  sim- 
mer and  skim,  add  a  few  drops  of  coloring  to  give  it  a  nice 
brown  color  ;•  when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of 
anchovy  essence;  it  ought  to  adhere  lightly  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  but  not  be  too  thick;  sauce  over  or  under,  as  directed; 
small  pieces  of  glaze,  if  at  hand,  put  into  it  is  an  improve- 
ment, as  is  also  using  broth  instead  of  water ;  oysters  and  mush- 
rooms may  be  introduced,  also  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  This 
sauce  must  be  very  savory. 

Lobster  Butter. 

Procure  half  a  lobster,  quite  full  of  spawn,  which  take  out 
and  pound  well  in  a  mortar;  then  add  six  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  mix  well  together,  then  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve, 
and  put  it  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted.  The  flesh  can  be  used 
for  any  other  dish. 

Anchovy  Butter. 

Take  the  bones  from  six  anchovies,  wash  the  fillets  and  dry 
them  upon  a  cloth,  pound  them  well  in  a  mortar;  add  six 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mix  well  together,  and  proceed  as  in 
the  last. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  105 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  upon  a  plate  with 
one  good  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  that  quantity 
of  white  pepper;  mix  all  well  together,  and  put  in  a  cool  place 
till  required. 

Ravigote  Butter. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  instead  of  parsley,  use  one  spoon- 
ful of  chopped  tarragon,  and  one  of  chervil,  and  add  half  a 
spoonful  of  Chili  vinegar. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

FISH 

No  feature  of  the  daily  menu  is  so  dainty  and  delicious  as 
fish.  Properly  cooked  it  is  at  once  a  delight  to  the  gourmet 
and  a  light,  nourishing  article  of  diet  to  the  invalid. 

But  nothing  is  so  difficult  to  cook  well  —  by  the  ordinary 
methods  —  as  fish.  Its  delicate,  elusive  flavors  are  so  easily 
lost  and  its  light  "  flakiness  "  so  easily  destroyed. 

With  the  paper-bag  all  this  is  avoided.  The  delicate  fla- 
vors cannot  but  be  retained  by  a  method  which  allows  nothing 
to  escape,  and  the  fish  will  be  found  far  superior  in  taste, 
appearance,  and  digestibility.  Here,  too,  as  with  other  ar- 
ticles, there  is  a  saving  of  time,  and  the  various  seasonings 
can  be  used  more  economically  and  to  better  advantage. 

Cod  Bourgeoise. 

Take  two  slices  of  cod,  lay  them  in  a  well-buttered  bag, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  two  mushrooms  and  two 
sliced  tomatoes  on  the  top  of  the  fish,  add  a  chopped  shallot, 
dot  over  with  butter,  squeeze  over  with  lemon  juice,  seal  up, 
and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  300°  Fahr. 

Stewed  Eels. 

Cut  up  two  eels  in  pieces  two  inches  long.  Add  salt  and 
pepper,  chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  a  little  sweet 
herbs  (according  to  taste).  Add  a  small  chopped  onion.  Mix 
this  well  together.  Put  in  the  paper  bag  with  two  spoonfuls 
of  milk,  water,  or  stock  (one  of  either  according  to  taste). 

Seal  up  the  bag  and  put  on  the  grid.  Leave  twenty  minutes 
in  a  moderate  'oven  (300°  Fahr.).  Butter  added  to  the  above 


106  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

in  the   paper   bag  will   make  the   dish   richer.    After   twenty 
minutes,  serve  in  the  paper  bag,  or  dish  in  the  ordinary  way. 

Fish  Croquettes. 

Mix  one  pound  of  cooked  fish  of  any  variety  with  two  large 
tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Form  into  croquettes, 
roll  them  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs  in  the  usual  way,  place  them 
in  a  well-dressed  paper  bag,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  a 
very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Salmon  Croquettes. 

are  made  in  the  same  way,  but  should  be  served  with  tartare 
sauce. 

Smoked  Haddock. 

Trim  a  smoked  haddock  weighing  about  two  pounds,  sea- 
son with  cayenne  pepper  to  taste,  but  do  not  use  any  salt. 
Pour  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  over  the  fish,  and  cover 
it  with  a  little  white  sauce.  Sprinkle  with  Parmesan  cheese, 
a  few  breadcrumbs,  and  enough  oiled  butter  to  moisten.  Place 
the  whole  in  a  well-buttered  paper  bag,  seal  up,  and  cook  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Stuffed  Fresh  Haddock. 

Chop  a  cooked  onion  and  mix  it  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
breadcrumbs.  Add  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt,  and  pepper  to 
taste,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  one  egg.  When  thoroughly 
mixed  stuff  the  fish  with  the  mixture,  butter  a  paper  bag,  roll 
the  fish  in  flour,  place  in  the  bag,  dot  over  with  small  pieces 
of  butter,  seal  up,  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  300°  Fahr. 

Haddock  a  la  Royale. 

Take  from  four  to  six  fillets  of  fresh  haddock.  Spread  them 
with  butter.  Dip  in  seasoned  flour,  and  then  in  grated  cheese. 
Put  into  a  well-greased  bag,  and  add  to  them  rather  better 
than  a  gill  of  milk.  Cook  gently  for  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes  (300°  Fahr.),  according  to  thickness  of  fillets.  Dish 
up  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Haddock  a  la  Princesse. 

Take  two  filleted  haddocks.  Rub  them  over  gently  with 
butter  with  a  silver  fish  knife.  Dip  them  in  flour  and  then 
squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over  each,  and  dust  lightly  with 
pepper  and  salt. 

Place  them  carefully  in  a  well-greased  bag.    Add  to  them 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  107 

half  a  wineglassful  each  of  sherry,  and  Worcester  sauce  and 
water.  Fold  and  seal  in  a  bag,  and  cook  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  (300°  Fahr.)  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  fillets.  Dish  up  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  cooked  over  them, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Hake. 

Slice  three  pounds  of  fish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add 
a  small  chopped  onion  and  a  few  sweet  herbs.  Mix  one  ounce 
of  butter  or  dripping  with  a  large  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add 
three  parts  of  a  glass  of  milk  and  stir  to  a  smooth  paste.  Place 
all  these  ingredients  with  the  fish  in  a  well-buttered  paper  bag 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  (300°  Fahr.).  Any  sauce  can 
be  added  as  flavoring  if  desired, 

Hake  or  Cod  a  la  Valeska. 

Take  a  cutlet  of  either;  spread  each  side  well  with  butter, 
dip  into  seasoned  flour,  then  sprinkle  very  thickly  with  finely 
grated  cheese.  A  mixture  of  Parmesan  and  Gruyere  is  the 
best,  but  any  kind,  even  Dutch,  will  do;  grease  a  bag  well 
with  butter.  Put  in  the  fish  and  add  to  it  a  gill  of  either 
good  fish  stock  or  flavored  milk  (i.e.,  milk  in  which  a  slice 
each  of  onion,  turnip  and  carrot  and  a  bit  of  celery  have  sim- 
mered for  fifteen  minutes),  and  cook  for  from  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  cutlet,  in  a  mod- 
erately hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.).  Turn  out  gently  on  to  a  hot 
dish.  Pour  the  sauce  over,  sprinkle  picked  shrimps  on  top  and 
serve.  The  shrimps  should  be  made  hot,  not  cooked,  in  a  little 
roll  of  well-greased  Soyer  paper  separately. 

Halibut  a  la  Minute. 

Season  a  slice  of  halibut  about  an  inch  in  thickness  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  roll  in  flour.  Slice  two  tomatoes,  lay  them 
on  the  fish,  squeeze  lemon  juice  over,  dot  with  small  pieces  of 
butter,  and  place  in  a  thoroughly  buttered  paper  bag.  Seal 
up  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350° 
Fahr.). 

Herrings  a  la  Rnsse. 

Take  four  very  fresh  soft-roed  herrings.  Get  the  fishmonger 
to  bone  them  for  you.  In  the  center  of  each  place  a  big  tea- 
spoonful  of  French  mustard  and  a  bit  of  butter.  Dust  lightly 
with  black  pepper,  and  place  in  a  well-buttered  bag.  Add  to 
them  half  a  wineglassful  of  hock  or  sherry  and  half  a  wine- 


io8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

glassful  of  either  shallot  or  tarragon  vinegar  as  preferred. 
Cook  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  fish,  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Dish  up  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  with  a  beetroot  salad.  This 
is  a  most  appetizing  way  of  cooking  herrings,  but  it  must  be 
done  in  the  Soyer  bag  if  it  is  to  be  done  to  perfection. 

For  the  dressing  for  the  sliced  beetroot  allow  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar  to  one  of  oil,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste. 

Fresh  Herring. 

Slit  the  fish  on  each  side  in  a  horizontal  direction.  Place 
on  it  a  little  mace,  bay  leaves,  parsley,  a  small  piece  of  onion, 
and  some  salt  and  pepper.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
Place  in  the  paper-bag,  seal  up,  put  on  the  grid  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  minutes  (300°  Fahr,.). 

Kippers  and  Bloaters. 

can  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  with  or  without  butter.  If 
boiling  is  preferred,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  water.  To  grill 
fish  of  this  kind,  add  butter  or  dripping  only. 

Lobster  a  I'Americaine. 

Cut  a  good-sized  lobster  crossways  into  seven  slices.  Re- 
move the  soft  part  of  the  flesh,  put  it  into  a  bowl,  and  mix  with 
it  three  large  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  Madeira,  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  tarragon.  Sea- 
son with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Add  an  ounce  of 
oiled  butter  and  stir  well.  Mix  with  the  sliced  lobster,  place  in 
an  oiled  paper-bag  and  cook  for  twelve  minutes  in  a  very  hot 
oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Red  or  Gray  Mullet. 

Take  the  fish  with  a  half  tomato  cut  up,  one  mushroom,  salt, 
pepper,  a  little  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour 
(this  can  be  omitted  if  desired),  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
little  butter.  Place  in  the  paper  bag,  seal  up,  and  allow  tiventy 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Mackerel  a  la  Napolitaine. 

Take  two  very  fresh  filleted  mackerel,  place  a  line  of  fresh 
tarragon  leaves  on  each  fillet.  Dust  with  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Butter  a  bag  thickly,  put  in  the  fillets  of  mackerel,  and 
then  on  top  of  each  pour  gently  a  large  tablespoonful  of  tomato 
catsup  (the  American  variety  gives  the  best  results  as  it  is 
far  more  delicately  flavored  than  the  English  sort).  Close  the 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  109 

bag  and  cook  for  from  eighteen  to  twenty  to  twenty-five  min- 
utes in  300°  Fahr.,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  fish. 
Turn  out  carefully,  pour  the  sauce  over  them  and  send  to 
table  at  once. 

If  preferred,  the  quantity  of  sauce  may  be  increased,  but  the 
above  is  quite  sufficient  for  the  cooking  process.  Herrings, 
it  may  be  noted,  are  equally  good  this  way.  In  this  case  a  very 
little  minced  chives  may  be  added  to  the  tarragon. 

Plaice  a  la  Meuniere. 

Filleted  or  whole  fish  can  be  used  for  this  dish.  Chop  a 
small  shallot,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  paste  or  sauce,  a 
squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Place  in  a  thor- 
oughly buttered  bag,  dredge  with  flour,  pour  a  tablespoonful 
of  oiled  butter  on  top  of  the  fish,  seal  up  and  cook.  For  two 
pounds  of  whole  fish,  thirty  minutes,  and  eight  minutes  for  the 
same  weight  filleted  (heat  350°  Fahr.). 

Sole   Bourguigone. 

Thoroughly  butter  a  bag,  place  inside  a  well-trimmed  sole, 
add  three  small  peeled,  uncut  onions,  a  bouquet  garni,  and  a 
glass  of  claret.  Mix  a  large  teaspoonful  of  flour  with  an 
ounce  of  butter,  place  this  mixture  on  the  sole,  seal  up  the  bag, 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Lemon  Soles  a  la  Comtesse. 

Grease  a  bag  thickly.  Take  six  or  eight  fillets  of  lemon 
soles.  Dust  them  lightly  with  salt  and  white  pepper  and 
squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over  each  fillet.  Put  them  in  the 
bag  and  add  to  them  an  ounce  of  finely  minced  mushrooms, 
half  a  heaped  large  teaspoonful  of  finely  minced  shallot  or 
chives,  a  heaped  large  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley  and  a 
heaped  dessertspoonful  of  freshly  fried  breadcrumbs,  all  mixed 
together.  Add  also  half  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  mixed  with 
the  same  amount  of  either  good  fish  or  ordinary  stock.  Close 
the  bag  and  cook  in  a  moderately  hot  o*ven  for  eighteen  to 
twenty  minutes  (300°  Fahr.).  Pour  the  liquor  and  herbs, 
etc.,  over  the  fish  and  send  to  table  at  once.  To  make  the  fish 
stock  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  from  the  fish  in  a  clean 
small  stewpan  with  a  gill  of  water  and  a  bit  of  turnip,  carrot, 
onion  and  celery,  all  first  well  washed  and  sliced,  and  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  off  and  use. 


no  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Sole,    Filleted   Plaice,   Brill  or   Cod. 

Any  of  these  can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way,  and  should 
be  allowed  the  same  time  as  turbot. 

Sprats. 

Clean  and  dry  one  pound  of  sprats,  and  roll  them  in  flour. 
Melt  one  ounce  of  butter,  season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper, 
add  a  finely  chopped  shallot,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 
Sprinkle  this  mixture  over  the  sprats  and  place  them  in  a  well- 
buttered  bag.  Seal  up  and  cook  for  five  minutes  in  a  very  hot 
oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Smelts  Milanaise. 

Trim  a  dozen  smelts,  roll  them  in  flour.  Put  one  ounce  of 
butter  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  let  it  melt,  roll  the  fish  in  this 
butter,  sprinkle  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  a  little  grated 
Parmesan,  and  place  them  side  by  side  in  a  well-buttered  paper- 
bag.  Cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  pour  a  little  tomato 
sauce  between  each  smelt.  Seal  up  and  cook  for  eight  minutes 
in  a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Serve  with  slices  of  lemon. 

Salmon 

can  be  cooked  with  any  kind  of  seasoning  to  taste.  A  whole 
slice  will  take  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven;  a  seven  pound 
sliced  salmon  ^viU  take  forty-five  minutes.  Mushroom,  tomato, 
salt  and  pepper,  lemon  juice,  can  be  added  as  desired,  and 
cooked  in  the  paper-bag  with  the  fish. 

For  grilling  or  baking,  dredge  with  a  little  flour  and  a  little 
butter,  and  put  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Scallops. 

Wash  and  trim  half-a-dozen  scallops,  chop  finely,  and  re- 
place in  the  deep  shell.  Mince  four  mushrooms,  add  a  chopped 
shallot,  a  little  parsley,  one  chopped  tomato,  one  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  season  to  taste,  and  mix  with  lemon  juice.  Cover  the 
scallops  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  with  grated  Parmesan,  a  few 
breadcrumbs,  and  dot  over  with  small  pieces  of  butter.  Place 
in  a  bag,  seal,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven 
(350°  Fahr.). 

Turbot. 

The  whole  fish  (or  part)  can  be  done  in  the  same  way. 
A  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half  will  take  twenty  minutes  to  cook. 
A  turbot  of  seven  pounds  will  take  forty-five  minutes.  It  can 
be  cooked  with  or  without  garnish,  with  butter  or  quite  plain. 
Season  your  fish  with  salt  and  pepper  and  the  juice  of  one 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  ill 

lemon;  but  this  can  be  omitted  if  desired.     Place  in  the  paper 

bag,  seal  up,  place  on  grid,  and  put  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Whiting  a  la  Normande. 

Place  two  skinned  whiting  in  a  buttered  bag.  Place  half-a- 
dozen  bearded  oysters  between  them,  and  add  half-a-dozen 
sliced  mushrooms.  Mix  two  ounces  of  butter  with  a  large  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  add  a  few  shelled  shrimps  and  a  little  an- 
chovy paste.  Place  on  the  whiting.  Pour  in  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  white  wine.  Seal  up  in  bag  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes 
(350°  Fahr.).  After  placing  the  whiting  on  a  dish,  squeeze  a 
little  lemon  juice  over  them. 

NOTE.  —  Clean  the  mushrooms  first  with  a  bit  of  flannel  and 
a  little  salt. 

Whiting  Fines  Herbes. 

Take  two  whiting  (four  pound  size),  get  the  fishmonger  to 
bone  them.  Fill  the  cavity  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed 
finely  minced  chives  or  shallot  and  parsley,  season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  a  tiny  squeeze  of  lemon  juice. 

Put  into  a  well-greased  bag,  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in 
300°  Fahr. 

Then   dish  up   a  very  hot  dish,   pour  the  liquor  from  the 
fish  into  the  center  of  each,  and  serve  at  once.     Haddock  and 
fresh  herrings  are  also  excellent  when  cooked  in  this  way. 
Trout  a  la  Soyer. 

Take  a  nice  trout  from  half  a  pound  to  two  pounds  in  weight. 
Clean  and  trim  well.  Then  cut  on  each  side  about  eight  or 
ten  incisions.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  according  to 
taste.  Take  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  an- 
chovy paste  or  sauce.  Rub  half  a  shallot  on  a  cold  plate  and 
throw  the  shallot  away.  Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  with  the 
butter  on  the  plate  you  have  rubbed  with  shallot.  Add  a  large 
teaspoonful  of  capers  (if  at  hand).  Place  your  trout  in  a  well- 
buttered  paper-bag  with  all  the  ingredients.  Have  ready  half 
a  cucumber  blanched  in  boiling  water  for  six  minutes  and  cut 
up  in  small  dice.  Also  two  medium-sized  carrots  cooked  in 
boiling  water,  salt,  and  a  little  sugar,  cut  small.  Slice  two 
large  gherkins  and  twelve  small  new  cooked  potatoes.  Place 
all  the  above  around  the  raw  fish  in  the  paper-bag,  adding  the 
juice  of  one  lemon.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
over  the  vegetables,  etc.  Seal  bag  and  place  carefully  on  grid. 
Allow  for  one  trout,  half  a  pound,  twenty  minutes;  one  pound 
twenty-five  minutes;  one  and  a  half  pounds,  thirty-five  min- 
utes; two  pounds  forty  minutes  —  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 


H2  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Any  fish  can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way  by  shortening  or 
adding  to  the  garnishing  of  the  above  recipe.  Fresh  mush- 
rooms are  always  very  welcome  in  cooking  trout,  salmon,  tur- 
bot,  whiting,  halibut,  eels,  or  any  other  kind  of  fish.  This  is  a 
matter  to  be  left  to  the  taste  of  the  cook.  But  NEVER  omit  to 
MIX  up  the  flour  with  the  cold  fresh  butter,  to  be  laid  well  on 
the  top  of  the  fish.  If  you  desire  a  sauce,  put  half  a  glass  of 
claret  with  your  fish  in  the  paper  bag. 

Light  White  Fish. 

Take  any  kind  of  light  white  fish.  Roll  in  flour,  then  in  a 
little  milk,  afterwards  in  breadcrumbs.  Grease  your  paper-bag 
with  butter,  olive  oil,  or  dripping.  Put  the  fish  in  the  bag  and 
seal  up.  Place  the  bag  on  the  grid  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350° 
Fahr.),  and  allow  twenty  minutes  or  so,  according  to  size. 
Season  to  taste  before  serving. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  113 


POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

Stuffed  Chicken. 

Wash  and  dry  thoroughly  six  or  seven  ounces  of  rice  and 
fry  it  in  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  until  lightly  browned. 
Then  cover  with  a  little  stock  and  cook  till  quite  tender.  If 
necessary  add  more  stock  from  time  to  time,  but  when  cooked 
the  rice  should  be  nearly  dry. 

Fry  two  chopped  onions  in  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  butter, 
add  the  cooked  rice,  two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  dice,  and 
season  to  taste.  Mix  well  and  stuff  a  boned  chicken  with  this 
preparation. 

Braise  the  fowl  gently,  and  when  done  serve  with  a  good 
White  sauce  poured  over  it. 

Chicken  Liver  and  Ham. 

Take  equal  portions  of  chicken  liver,  chicken  gizzard,  and 
ham  —  each  sliced  very  fine  —  chopped  onion,  potatoes,  and  as- 
paragus tips.  Stew  the  meat  for  half  an  hour  in  as  little 
water  as  possible,  and  then  add  the  vegetables  and  cook  until 
well  done.  If  necessary  a  little  more  water  may  be  added  dur- 
ing the  cooking.  Season  to  taste  and  serve  very  hot. 

Stewed  Chicken. 

Stuff  a  chicken  with  a  mixture  of  breadcrumbs,  a  finely 
minced  onion,  some  grated  lemon  peel,  parsley,  thyme,  well 
incorporated  with  a  whipped  egg  and  a  little  butter.  Place  a 
piece  of  fat  over  the  breast  of  the  bird  and  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter.  Leave  it  uncovered  for  five 
minutes,  then  cover  and  cook  thoroughly  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Now  add  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  place  the  stewpan  over 
a  hotter  part  of  the  fire  and  baste  thoroughly  before  serving. 

Baked  Turkey. 

Slice  two  sausages  and  place  in  a  frying-pan  with  eight 
stoned  French  plums,  four  pears  peeled,  cored  and  sliced,  and 
half  a  pint  of  boiled  chestnuts.  Fry  in  a  little  butter  for  about 
two  minutes.  Mix  the  whole  with  the  liver  of  the  turkey, 


114  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

finely  chopped,  and  one  glass  of  Marsala  or  sherry,  and  make 
into  forcemeat,  with  which  stuff  the  turkey.  Now  place  the 
bird  in  a  baking  dish  with  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  two  or  three 
sprigs  of  rosemary,  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven, 
basting  from  time  to  time. 

Larks  in  Onions. 

Bone  a  dozen  larks,  and  stuff  with  minced  fowl's  liver  and 
herbs.  Lay  them  upon  slices  of  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  cover 
with  stock,  and  simmer  carefully  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Partly  boil  six  Spanish  onions,  and  when  cool  divide  each  into 
halves  and  remove  sufficient  of  the  inside  to  make  room  for  the 
lark.  Line  the  onion  with  a  little  forcemeat,  place  the  lark 
upon  it,  and  cover  with  more  forcemeat.  This  should  be  so 
arranged  that  the  head  of  the  bird  protrudes  through  the  force- 
meat. Cover  each  onion  with  a  slice  of  lard,  wrap  in  a  piece 
of  white  paper,  and  bake  in  the  oven  sufficiently  long  to  cook 
the  forcemeat.  Use  great  care  in  removing  the  paper  and 
draining  off  the  fat  before  placing  on  the  dish. 

Duck  Pie. 

Slice  thinly  the  meat  from  two  roast  ducks  and  steep  for  one 
hour  in  a  mixture  of  tarragon  vinegar,  olive  oil,  onion  juice, 
and  pepper.  Now  line  a  dish  with  puff  paste  and  bake  just 
enough  to  color  it.  Carefully  drain  the  slices  of  duck  and 
place  them  in  alternate  layers  with  sausage  meat  in  the  dish. 
Cover  with  the  paste,  brush  over  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  and 
bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Rabbit  Pie. 

Mince  together  half  a  pound  of  veal  suet,  one  pound  of  fresh 
pork,  an  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  two  cloves,  a  little  pepper,  salt  and 
parsley.  After  lining  a  dish  with  the  forcemeat  place  in  it  a 
rabbit  cut  into  joints,  together  with  six  oysters,  six  mushrooms, 
and  three  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs.  Pour  a  glass  of  Chablis 
over  the  whole.  Spread  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat  well  sprinkled 
with  breadcrumbs.  Cover  closely  and  bake  thoroughly. 
Rabbit  Cake. 

Mince  the  meat  of  a  boiled  rabbit  and  mix  with  it  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  minced  beef  tongue  and  chopped  onion,  a  cupful 
of  mashed  potato,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Add  a  cupful  of 
white  stock,  mix  thoroughly,  and  form  the  whole  into  a  mold  on 
the  dish.  Cover  with  breadcrumbs  and  bits  of  butter.  Bake 
till  well  browned.  Mushroom  or  tomato  sauce  should  be  served 
with  the  dish. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  115 

Stewed  Venison. 

Take  about  four  pounds  of  haunch  of  venison,  and  brown  it 
thoroughly  in  butter.  Place  it  in  an  earthenware  cooking  pot 
or  stewpan  with  a  cupful  of  clear  stock  and  claret,  a  spoonful 
of  sugar,  a  little  cinnamon,  some  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 
After  cooking  for  an  hour,  add  two  dozen  well-soaked  French 
plums.  Closely  cover  and  cook  for  two  hours  more;  then  take 
out  the  meat,  arrange  the  plums  around  it  on  the  dish,  strain 
the  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  meat  and  serve. 
Partridges  with  Cabbage. 

Cover  a  dish  with  slices  of  parboiled  cabbage,  and  on  each 
slice  place  a  partridge  stuffed  with  sausage  meat.  Add  a  cup- 
ful of  strong  stock,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  two  hours. 
The  whole  should  be  served  on  a  dish  with  partridges  placed 
on  the  cabbage,  and  the  gravy  poured  over  the  whole. 

Jacobin  Pottage. 

Mince  any  odds  and  ends  of  cold  fowl  or  turkey  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Line  the  bot- 
tom of  a  dish  with  slices  of  toast,  and  pour  a  cupful  of  strong 
stock  over  them.  Then  add  the  chopped  meat  and  cover  with 
a  layer  of  breadcrumbs.  After  baking  for  an  hour  squeeze  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  over  the  dish  and  serve. 

Stewed  Chicken  and  Rice. 

Stuff  a  fat  fowl  with  a  mixture  of  breadcrumbs,  onion,  and 
the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
salt  pork,  and  wrap  thoroughly  in  oiled  paper.  Place  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  an  onion,  some  parsley,  and  a  clove,  and  add  sufficient 
white  stock  to  nearly  cover  the  bird.  Cover  closely  and  cook 
for  an  hour.  After  removing  the  chicken  add  a  cupful  of  hot 
cream,  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pep- 
per, mix  thoroughly  and  pour  it  over  the  chicken,  which  should 
be  served  with  boiled  rice. 

Chicken  Cream. 

Thoroughly  pound  the  meat  of  a  boiled  fowl,  add  sufficient 
milk  to  make  into  a  thick  paste,  pass  through  a  sieve,  and  add 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Stir  thoroughly  over  the  fire  till 
done,  and  then  pour  out  upon  a  dish,  arranging  six  poached 
eggs  on  the  top  of  the  mixture,  and  garnishing  with  sprigs  of 
parsley. 

Poultry   Cassolette. 

To  use  up  odds  and  ends  of  cooked  poultry.     Take  equal 


ii6  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

portions  of  well-boiled  haricot  beans  and  minced  chicken, 
turkey,  or  duck.  Mix  thoroughly  and  fry  with  two  slices  of 
bacon,  two  sliced  tomatoes,  a  minced  onion,  and  herbs  to  taste. 
Add  sufficient  good  stock  to  form  a  moderately  thick  paste. 
Pour  the  whole  into  a  dish  and  bake  until  well  browned. 
Fried  Chicken. 

Cut  up  a  fowl  and  steep  for  three  hours  in  a  mixture  of 
lemon  juice,  olive  oil,  and  seasoning.  Drain  each  piece,  dip 
first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  brown. 

This  should  be  served  with  a  sauce  made  by  cooking  a  cup- 
ful of  new  milk  with  the  same  quantity  of  white  stock,  a  dozen 
mushrooms,  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Add  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  juice  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  before  pouring  the 
sauce  round  the  bird. 

Chicken  Cannelons. 

Mince  a  cupful  of  cooked  fowl  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  the  same  quantity  of  butter,  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg, 
two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  The 
whole  should  form  a  thick  paste.  Now  roll  some  puff  paste 
very  thin,  cut  it  into  squares,  fill  each  with  the  mixture,  and 
fold  over.  Fry  or  bake  until  lightly  browned.  This  should 
be  served  piled  upon  a  dish  and  surrounded  with  parsley. 

Chicken  with  Cheese. 

Place  in  an  earthenware  cooking  vessel  or  enameled  sauce- 
pan a  young  chicken  with  some  butter,  half  a  glass  of  white 
wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  clear  stock.  Add  a  bouquet 
garni  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  one 
hour.  Now  take  out  the  fowl  and  herbs  and  thicken  the  sauce 
with  a  little  flour  and  butter.  Next  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce 
into  the  dish  upon  which  the  bird  is  to  be  served,  and  sprinkle 
over  it  a  good  spoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  On  this 
place  the  chicken.  Pour  over  it  the  rest  of  the  sauce,  sprinkle 
well  with  grated  cheese,  and  place  in  the  oven  until  the  whole 
of  the  sauce  is  absorbed  and  the  fowl  is  nicely  browned. 
Chicken  with  Tomatoes. 

Roast  on  the  spit  a  fowl  stuffed  with  equal  parts  of  fat  and 
lean  ham  minced.  Baste  with  oil  mixed  with  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  some  salt.  When  the  fowl  is  placed  on  the  dish 
pour  over  it  a  puree  of  tomatoes  with  which  has  been  blended 
a  cup  of  Malaga  wine  or  port. 

Stewed  Fowl. 

Place  a  fowl  in  a  stewpan,  with  enough  salt  water  to  nearly 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  117 

cover  it.  Add  a  slice  of  rather  fat  ham,  and  a  very  little 
garlic,  some  powdered  pimento,  and  a  little  saffron.  Cook 
till  the  fowl  is  tender,  then  take  it  out,  reduce  the  liquor  to  a 
sauce,  thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  and  serve  with  the  fowl. 

Capon  with  Apples. 

Take  a  large  Soyer  paper-bag,  well  buttered  inside  through- 
out and  place  therein  a  moderate-sized  capon  over  which  spread 
slices  of  bacon,  lemon,  onions  and  carrots.  Sprinkle  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  mixed  spices  and  a  few  cloves;  seal  up  the  bag 
and  insert  in  a  very  hot  oven.  In  the  meantime  cut  into  small 
pieces  ten  or  twelve  apples  and  stew  them  with  the  juice  of 
two  oranges,  a  little  finely  minced  orange  peel  and  plenty  of 
sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  water.  Turn  out  upon  a  dish, 
remove  the  bag  from  the  capon,  place  the  bird  upon  the  com- 
pote, pouring  the  gravy  over  it  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Stewed  Woodcock. 

Stuff  the  bird  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  bacon,  parsley  and 
shallots  finely  minced,  incorporated  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Truss  the  bird  as  for  roast- 
ing, and  place  in  a  small  stewpan  —  preferably  of  earthenware 
—  on  a  thick  slice  of  bacon.  Cover  and  cook  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  and  then  add  a  small  glass  of  Sauterne  or  other 
white  wine.  When  done  add  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  to  the 
sauce  and  serve  with  the  bird. 

Steamed  Chicken. 

Take  an  old  hen,  and  truss  in  the  usual  fashion,  taking  care 
that  the  legs  and  wings  are  tied  very  closely  to  the  body.  Rub 
both  inside  and  outside  of  the  bird  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  with  which  have  been  blended  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  half  as  much  white  pepper. 

Now  take  a  large  cupful  of  cooked  rice  and  season  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  curry  powder  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Place 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  this  rice  inside  the  fowl,  together  with 
the  giblets,  which  have  been  previously  stewed  for  an  hour. 
The  bird  must  be  placed  inside  a  dish  just  large  enough  to  hold 
it  closely,  and  the  remainder  of  the  rice  laid  around  it.  Put  the 
dish  in  a  steamer  and  cook  for  four  hours. 
Chicken  Rissoles. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  using  no  sugar,  but  mixing 
with  it  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  the  juice  of  half  an 
onion,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt.  With  this 
blend  thoroughly  half  a  pound  of  the  finely  minced  white  meat 


ii8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

of  a  cold  chicken,  either  roast  or  boiled.  Form  the  mixture 
into  moderate-sized  balls  or  large  spoonfuls,  and  poach  in  a 
little  clear  stock.  When  cooked,  arrange  them  in  a  pile  on  a 
dish,  sprinkle  thickly  with  grated  cheese,  and  place  in  a  fairly 
brisk  oven  until  they  are  nicely  browned.  Tomato  sauce  is 
usually^  served  with  them. 

Partridge  au  Choux. 

Tie  up  a  good  partridge  with  slices  of  fat  bacon.  Cut  two 
small  white  cabbages  in  four  pieces,  and  blanch,  after  which 
throw  cold  water  over  them  and  drain.  Lay  some  thin  pieces 
of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  also  one  carrot,  one  onion 
(previously  blanched)  and  a  bouquet  garni. 

Place  the  partridge  in  the  center,  surrounded  by  the  cab- 
bage, season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  gravy  to  half  the 
height  of  the  .contents.  Cover  lightly,  and  let  all  stew  gently 
until  the  partridge  is  tender. 

The  bird  should  be  cut  up  and  arranged  in  the  middle  of  the 
dish,  surrounded  by  the  cabbage  and  bacon,  etc.  Pour  a  little 
of  the  gravy  over  the  whole. 

Fried  Chicken. 

Cut  a  good-sized  fowl  into  joints  and  boil  in  a  pint  of  white 
stock  until  about  half-done.  Remove  the  fowl  and  drain.  Now 
reduce  the  stock  by  further  boiling,  take  it  from  the  fire,  stir 
in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon,  and 
strain.  Dip  each  piece  of  fowl  first  into  this  sauce  then  into  a 
mixture  of  crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  and  fry  in  deep  fat  till 
well  browned. 

The  remainder  of  the  sauce  should  be  served  hot  with  the 
fried  fowl. 

Stewed  Chicken. 

Take  the  remains  of  cooked  chicken,  cut  into  coarse  dice  — 
there  should  be  about  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  —  a  slice  of 
bread  toasted  cut  into  dice,  two  large  potatoes  coarsely  chopped, 
a  tablespoonful  of  raisins,  two  tomatoes  cut  into  small  pieces, 
and  one  green  chili  finely  shredded.  Mix  all  together  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  Sauterne,  add  salt,  and  place  in  a  stewing 
jar,  adding  as  much  water  as  may  be  needed  to  barely  cover 
the  whole.  On  the  top  of  all  place  an  ounce  of  lard  cut  into 
small  pieces. 

Tie  a  cloth  over  the  lid  of  the  jar  in  order  to  cover  closely, 
and  let  the  whole  stew  very  gently  for  about  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  119 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

POULTRY 
Roast  Chicken. 

Cover  the  breast  of  the  fowl  or  chicken  with  butter  or  drip- 
ping, or  better  still,  tie  a  piece  of  fat  bacon  over  it.  Place  in 
bag,  and  set  on  grid  .in  a  hot  oven. 

Allow  twenty-five  minutes  for  a  small  spring  chicken;  thirty- 
five  minutes  for  a  large  fowl;  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes  (ac- 
cording to  size)  for  stuffed  poultry  or  game  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Boiled  Fowl. 

Place  the  fowl  (or  other  poultry)  ready  trussed,  in  a  paper 
bag.  Put  a  little  bacon  or  fat  ham  on  the  breast.  Place  in 
bag  one  small  chopped  carrot,  one  onion,  one  clove,  a  little 
sweet  herb,  celery  (if  desired),  salt  and  pepper,  according  to 
taste.  Add  one  and  a  quarter  tumblers  of  water.  Seal  up  bag. 
Tie  a  piece  of  string  round  the  neck  of  the  bag  to  prevent  the 
water  running  out.  Allow  forty-five  to  sixty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Boiled  Turkey. 

Same  as  above.  Allow  one  hour  and  forty-five  minutes.  If 
stuffed,  allow  two  hours  and  thirty  minutes. 

Tough  Old  Fowl. 

This  can  be  sent  tender  to  the  table  if  treated  as  follows:  — 
Clean,  truss  and  stuff  according  to  taste.  Put  five  spoonfuls 
of  dripping  or  butter  upon  the  breast.  Place  in  the  paper-bag. 
Allow  one  hour  and  forty-five  minutes  to  two  hours  and  a  half, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  bird  in  question,  in  a  moderate 
oven  (300°  Fahr.).  The  old  rooster  will  appear  on  the  table 
like  a  spring  chicken,  more  serviceable  than  has  ever  been 
known  in  the  history  of  cooking. 

Fowl. 

Savory  crumbs.  Wash  the  fowl  out  well  inside  with  plenty 
of  cold  water.  Dry  well,  put  the  liver  and  a  small  shallot  in- 
side the  bird.  Have  ready  a  large  tablespoonful  of  white  bread- 
crumbs. Add  to  them  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a  big 
walnut,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  teaspoonful  of  finely  minced 
chives,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  well  washed  and  minced  tarragon. 


120  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Mix  all  together  and  put  into  the  bag  with  the  bird.  Cook 
gently  for  sixty-five  minutes  in  300°  Fahr.  Open  bag.  Slip 
bird  and  crumbs  out  gently  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  send  to  table 
with  new  potatoes  and  salad. 

Turkey  or  Goose. 

Allow  one  and  a  quarter  hours  in  moderate  oven;  if  stuffed, 
allow  one  hour  and  forty-five  minutes  to  two  hours,  according 
to  size. 

Pigeon. 

Requires  very  delicate  cooking.  My  method  cooks  a  pigeon 
to  perfection,  whether  it  is  stuffed  or  not.  To  roast  allow 
fifteen  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven;  if  stuffed,  allow  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes  (350°  Fahr.). 

Roast  Quail. 

Truss  and  lard  the  quail  in  the  usual  way.  Place  in  bag. 
Seal  up  and  put  on  grid.  Allow  eight  minutes  in  a  very  hot 
oven  (350°  Fahr.).  It  must  be  cooked  quickly.  If  no  lard 
or  fat  is  used,  a  little  melted  butter  will  do  just  as  well. 

Chicken  Bruxelloise. 

Cut  a  chicken  into  small  pieces,  add  a  finely-chopped  leek, 
a  chopped  onion,  a  large  tablespoonful  of  flour,  seasoned  to 
taste,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  small  bouquet  garni.  Mix  well 
and  place  in  the  bag.  Cook  for  forty-five  minutes  in  300° 
Fahr. 

Aylesbury  Duckling  with  Turnips. 

Thoroughly  butter  a  paper-bag,  place  the  duckling  inside, 
cut  a  few  slices  of  carrot  and  turnip  into  fancy  shapes,  cut 
up  a  few  blanched  spring  onions  and  add  with  a  bouquet  garni. 
Pour  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  and  a  wineglass- 
ful  of  Madeira.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  according  to 
taste.  Cook  for  forty-five  to  fifty-five  minutes,  according  to 
size  of  bird,  in  300°  Fahr. 

Poulet  a  la  Reine. 

Take  a  fowl,  trussed  as  if  for  boiling,  and  rub  it  well  over 
with  a  split  onion.  Place  it  in  a  well-greased  bag,  and  add  to 
it  a  gill  of  good  stock.  Add  also  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bay 
leaf,  a  sprig  of  sweet  herbs,  and,  if  obtainable,  two  or  three 
spring  onions,  all  tied  together.  Take  four  ounces  of  well- 
cooked  rice  and  add  it  to  the  fowl.  Place  the  bag  on  the  grid ; 
simmer  very  slowly  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.),  until 
the  fowl  is  cooked.  Then  dish  up  the  fowl  on  a  hot  dish;  re- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  121 

move  the  herbs,  etc.,  and  empty  the  rice  into  a  fresh  bag. 
Add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  stock,  two-penny-worth  of  cream, 
a  little  grated  lemon  peel,  a  dust  of  nutmeg,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste;  mix  thoroughly.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg;  make  hot  again  on  the  grid  and  serve  at  once. 

Turkey  poult  and  a  fillet  of  veal  are  both  excellent  if  cooked 
after  this  recipe. 

Poulet  a  I'Americaine. 

Joint  a  spring  chicken  neatly  (first  singeing  it  carefully), 
then  dust  each  joint  lightly  with  black  pepper  and  place  in  a 
marinade  for  an  hour,  turning  it  frequently.  Have  ready  a 
light  frying  batter,  wipe  the  joints  on  a  clean  meat  clpth,  then 
dip  each  into  the  batter.  Grease  a  bag  very  thickly  and  put 
into  it  the  chicken,  place  it  on  the  grid  in  the  oven  and  cook 
for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  300°  Fahr.  Then  take 
it  out  of  the  bag,  drain  it  carefully,  dust  lightly  with  salt  and 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper  and  serve  it  quickly  and  hot.  A 
lentil  salad  should  accompany  chicken  cooked  after  this  fash- 
ion. 

Poulet  a  la  Marseilles. 

Bone  a  large  fowl  (or  the  poulterer  will  do  this  for  you) 
and  cut  it  into  ten  or  twelve  neat  fillets;  reserve  the  giblets, 
back,  liver,  bones,  etc.  Place  an  ounce  of  either  fresh  butter 
or  clarified  beef  dripping  in  a  clean  enameled  iron  stewpan; 
as  soon  as  it  oils  add  the  giblets,  etc.,  together  with  a  small 
onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  and  notched,  in  order  to  allow  the 
juice  to  escape,  a  dozen  peppercorns,  a  bay  leaf,  a  tiny  bit  of 
mace,  a  carrot  peeled  and  sliced,  a  turnip  peeled  and  cut  into 
neat  pieces,  a  bit  of  celery,  or  else  a  good  pinch  of  celery- 
salt,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Fry  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes, 
and  then  add  half  a  pint  or  more  of  well-flavored  stock;  bring 
gently  to  the  boil;  next  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire 
and  simmer  very  gently,  taking  care  that  the  stock  does  not  re- 
duce. Have  ready  a  turnip  and  a  carrot  cut  into  tiny  stars; 
tie  all  these  up  in  a  bit  of  muslin  and  set  them  to  cook  in  the 
stock.  When  the  latter  is  thoroughly  strong  and  all  the  good- 
ness has  been  extracted  from  the  giblets,  etc.,  strain  off  the 
stock  into  a  well-greased  bag,  add  to  it  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste  and  the  fillets  of  fowl,  and  let  the  contents  of  the  bag 
simmer  slowly  until  the  fillets  are  thoroughly  cooked,  say  about 
forty-five  minutes,  in  300°  Fahr. 

Then  dish  up  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  vegetable 


122  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

stars;  thicken  the  liquor  in  which  the  fillets  were  cooked  with 
an  ounce  of  brown  roux,  or,  failing  this,  with  half  an  ounce  of 
flour  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter  kneaded  together;  add  to  it 
four  ounces  of  previously  cooked  mushrooms,  make  very  hot, 
and  pour  over  and  around  the  fillets  of  fowl;  garnish  the  outer 
edge  with  a  border  of  crisply-fried  croutons,  and  serve  as  quickly 
as  possible.  A  wineglassful  of  sherry  or  Marsala  is  an  im- 
provement to  this  sauce. 

Poulet  Aux  Olives. 

Take  a  chicken  trussed  as  if  for  boiling;  dust  it  lightly  with 
spiced  pepper,  and  reserve  on  a  plate  till  needed;  place  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  or  half  a  gill  of  oil,  whichever  is  most 
convenient,  in  a  large  bag,  add  a  tiny  bit  of  garlic,  notched  in 
order  to  allow  the  juice  to  escape,  a  large  tablespoonful  of 
breadcrumbs,  and  the  chicken;  place  the  bag  on  the  grid  in 
the  oven  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Then  remove  the  bird  to 
a  hot  dish,  having  drained  it  carefully  as  directed.  Pour  off 
all  the  grease  from  the  remaining  breadcrumbs  and  remove  the 
garlic.  Put  the  residue  of  the  gravy  in  a  clean  bag  with  an 
ounce  of  glaze,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  heaped  tea- 
spoonful  of  red  currant  jelly  and  a  large  spoonful  of  good 
stock  or  gravy.  Fold  and  make  very  hot,  then  open  the  bag 
and  add  a  dozen  olives  farcies. 

Make  hot  on  the  grid  for  five  minutes.  Pour  over  the 
chicken  and  garnish  with  straw  potatoes,  or,  if  liked,  spinach. 
If  the  basting  and  draining  are  carefully  attended  to,  this  dish 
is  bound  to  be  a  success;  but  if  the  slightest  portion  of  grease 
is  allowed  to  remain  behind,  the  flavor  will  be  spoilt. 

Pheasant 

is  excellent  treated  in  this  way,  and  so,  too,  is  black  game, 
ptarmigan,  or  partridge. 

Widgeon  and  teal  may  be  cooked  in  this  fashion,  but  plain 
olives  should  be  used  in  place  of  the  olives  farcies  alluded  to 
here. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  123 


VEGETABLES. 

To  Boil  Vegetables. 

Always  clean  thoroughly  before  cooking  and  use  outside 
leaves  in  stock  pot.  All  fresh  vegetables  should  be  plunged 
into  boiling  salted  water,  the  proportions  being  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt  to  one  gallon  of  water. 

Dried  vegetables  should  be  placed  in  lukewarm  water. 

A  piece  of  sugar  put  into  the  water  in  which  green  vege- 
tables are  cooked,  allows  steam  to  escape  easily. 

Never  allow  vegetables  to  stay  in  the  water  in  which  they 
are  boiled,  but  drain  them  at  once  and  thoroughly. 

Green  vegetables  take  on  an  average  about  twenty  minutes 
to  cook,  though  ten  minutes  is  often  long  enough  for  young 
peas,  while  cabbages  sometimes  take  nearly  an  hour. 

Scolloped  Artichokes. 

Boil  the  artichokes  until  they  are  quite  soft,  and  mash  until 
they  are  free  from  lumps;  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  mix  to 
a  creamy  consistency  with  some  thick  white  sauce  (made  with 
milk).  Butter  a  small  fireproof  dish;  scatter  some  fine  dry 
breadcrumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  over  it,  fill  up 
with  the  mashed  artichokes,  and  cover  thickly  with  more  of  the 
crumbs;  pour  oiled  butter  over  the  top,  and  bake  until  evenly 
browned  in  a  quick  oven. 

Artichoke  Chips. 

Take  four  or  five  artichokes;  wash,  peel  and  cut  them  into 
dice.  Throw  them  into  cold  water  for  a  minute  or  two,  then 
dry  thoroughly.  Have  ready  in  a  frying-pan  sufficient  boiling 
fat  to  cover  the  artichokes.  Put  them  in,  and  fry  a  golden 
brown.  Drain  them  well  in  front  of  the  fire,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  serve. 

Artichoke   Fritters. 

Use  cold  cooked  artichokes,  cut  in  thick  slices.  Dip  in  bat- 
ter, and  fry  a  golden  brown. 


124  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Stuffed   Artichokes. 

Take  the  cooked  artichoke  bottoms  and  fill  them  with  mashed 
potato,  flavored  with  cheese.  Brown  in  the  oven,  and  serve 
with  cheese  sauce. 

Bouchees  d'Artichauts. 

Prepare  green  artichokes  by  cutting  off  the  leaves  close 
down  to  the  fond,  and  trim  off  any  that  may  adhere,  cut  off 
the  stalk  as  closely  as  possible.  Plunge  the  artichoke  bottoms 
into  boiling  salted  water,  and  leave  them  for  five  minutes,  then 
take  them  out  and  remove  the  choke  or  fibrous  part  in  the  cen- 
ter. Place  in  boiling  water  and  boil  them  until  tender.  When 
cooked  take  them  out,  drain  them,  and  put  them  through  a 
sieve,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  moistening  the  whole  with 
enough  white  sauce  to  make  a  puree.  Have  ready  some  pastry 
patty  cases,  ready  cooked,  fill  each  with  the  mixture  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Eggs  and  Artichokes. 

Boil  eight  Jerusalem  artichokes  and  cut  them  in  slices,  place 
them  in  a  fireproof  dish.  Hard  boil  four  eggs.  When  cold, 
shell  them  and  chop  them  up,  place  the  eggs  on  the  top  of  the 
sliced  artichokes,  and  pour  over  the  whole  a  good  white  sauce 
flavored  with  Parmesan  cheese.  Dust  over  with  breadcrumbs, 
and  make  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven. 

Cream  of  Artichokes  (Hot  or  Cold.) 

Boil  one  pound  of  Jerusalem  artichokes  until  quite  tender, 
then  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Make  a  custard  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  pepper  and  salt. 
Whisk  up  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  stir  this  into  the  custard, 
mix  it  with  the  artichoke,  and  place  all  in  a  buttered  mold, 
and  steam  for  an  hour.  Serve  hot  with  tomato  or  curry  sauce, 
or  set  the  mold  on  ice,  and  when  quite  cold  turn  out  on  to  a 
dish,  and  serve  with  iced  mayonnaise  or  hollandaise  sauce. 

Scooped  Jerusalem  Artichokes. 

Scoop  with  a  round  cutter  twenty-four  pieces  of  artichoke, 
of  the  size  of  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  wash,  and  put  them  in 
a  small  stewpan  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  sugar;  place  on  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  six  of  white  broth  or 
milk,  let  them  simmer  till  tender,  skim,  mix  a  yolk  of  an  egg 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  pour  in  stewpan,  and  move 
it  round  very  quick,  and  serve;  it  must  not  be  too  thick,  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  125 

the  artichokes  must  be  well  done;  they  must  not  be  in  puree; 
they  are  good  with  or  served  under  any  white  meat. 

Artichokes  with  Cheese. 

Wash  and  peel  the  artichokes,  and  place  them  in  cold  salted 
water,  then  put  them  in  a  pan  full  of  boiling  salted  water. 
Boil  for  twenty  minutes.  (If  the  artichokes  are  old  they 
should  be  put  into  cold  water,  which  must  be  brought  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  so  until  they  are  cooked.)  Take  the  artichokes 
out  and  drain  them,  cut  into  pieces,  then  place  them  in  a  fire- 
proof dish,  covering  them  with  a  good  white  sauce.  Sprinkle 
with  grated  cheese.  Place  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  about 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  until  of  a  golden  brown. 

Boiled  Asparagus. 

Cut  the  stalks  of  a  bundle  of  fresh  asparagus  evenly,  and 
tie  them  up  into  a  bunch,  put  them  upright  into  a  pan  just 
large  enough  to  hold  them  comfortably  and  with  boiling  water 
to  within  about  three  inches  of  the  tops.  Keep  them  on  the 
fire  for  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  then  lift  them  out,  drain 
well,  remove  the  string  and  dish  up  on  a  napkin  or  square  of 
toast.  Treated  in  this  way,  the  heads  are  not  apt  to  come  off, 
and  the  stalks,  instead  of  being  tough,  are  quite  tender. 

Asparagus   with   Nut   Gravy. 

•Cut  the  young,  green,  small  asparagus  diagonally  into  equal 
lengths  (like  French  beans),  and  cook  lightly  in  fat;  when 
slightly  crisped,  season  with  white  pepper,  salt,  minced  parsley 
and  chervil  and  add  a  little  stock;  simmer  gently  till  cooked. 
Now  add  a  spoonful  or  so  of  nutril,  and  serve.  The  great 
secret  of  this  dish  is  only  to  put  in  enough  stock  in  the  first 
instance  to  cook  the  asparagus,  for  it  should  all  be  absorbed 
by  the  time  you  add  the  nutril. 

Vol  Au  Vent  of  Asparagus  and  Eggs. 

Cut  up  two  dozen  or  so  heads  of  cooked  asparagus  into 
small  pieces,  and  mix  in  a  stewpan  with  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  two  raw  eggs.  Flavor  with  pepper  and  salt  and  stir  freely. 
Add  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  continue  stir- 
ring for  two  minutes.  Serve  in  a  vol  au  vent  case  of  pastry. 
Mushrooms,  tomatoes,  or  green  peas  may  be  served  in  the 
same  way. 

Asparagus   Stew. 

Cut  the  tender  part  of  asparagus  into  small  pieces  and  cook 
in  salted  water.  Now  mince  finely  some  parsley,  spring  onions, 


126  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  lettuce  leaves.  Place  these  in  a  stewpan  with  butter,  a 
little  water.  Simmer  gently  until  cooked,  add  the  asparagus 
and  serve  at  once. 

Asparagus  and  Cheese. 

Take  the  tender  parts  of  asparagus  and  boil  them  in  salted 
water.  Now  take  a  shallow  baking  dish  and  spread  upon  it  a 
layer  of  grated  cheese  and  butter.  Upon  this  spread  a  layer 
of  the  cooked  asparagus  and  so  on  alternately,  having  a  layer 
of  cheese  and  butter  on  the  top.  Place  in  the  oven  and  bake 
until  browned. 

Croustades  of  Broad  Bean. 

Shell  the  beans  and  drop  into  boiling  salted  water.  Boil 
gently  from  fifteen  minutes  to  half  an  hour.  When  tender 
pour  the  water  away,  and  shake  them  in  the  saucepan  over 
the  fire  with  a  little  butter,  or  cream,  pepper  and  salt;  serve 
about  six  beans  in  a  case  of  fried  bread,  and  pour  a  little 
parsley  sauce  over. 

Beans  and  Wine. 

Soak  half  a  pound  of  dried  beans  overnight;  the  red  are 
the  best  but  haricot  beans  will  do.  After  draining,  place  them 
in  an  enameled  saucepan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  minced 
onion,  one  clove,  a  bouquet  garni,  and  just  enough  clear  stock 
to  cover.  Simmer  slowly  until  the  beans  are  tender  but  dry. 
After  removing  the  bunch  of  herbs  add  half  a  teacupful  of 
Burgundy  or  claret,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  make  very  hot,  and 
serve  at  once. 

French  Beans  with  Cheese  Sauce. 

Cook  the  beans  in  the  usual  way,  by  throwing  them  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  in  which  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  has  been 
placed.  If  young,  cook  them  whole,  only  removing  the  spines 
and  pointed  end,  or  if  stock  is  used,  place  them  in  a  pan  which 
has  been  buttered,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  just  cover  them  with 
stock.  When  tender  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  make  a  white 
sauce,  with  one-half  ounce  of  butter  and  one-half  ounce  of 
flour,  mixed  with  one-half  pint  of  the  stock  in  which  the  beans 
have  been  cooked,  add  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  stir  well, 
adding  one  well  beaten  egg  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
grated  cheese.  Do  not  let  the  sauce  boil  after  the  egg  has 
been  added  or  it  will  curdle.  Pour  round  the  beans  and  serve. 

French  beans  can  also  be  served  with  Bechamel  sauce  or 
quite  plainly  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter  melted  and  run 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  127 

over  them,  with  a  shake  of  pepper  and  salt,  or  again  with  a 
plain  melted  butter  sauce. 

Boiled  Cabbage. 

Cut  a  good  head  of  cabbage  into  very  thin  shreds  and  boil 
rapidly  in  plenty  of  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Now 
pour  off  the  water,  add  sufficient  milk  to  just  cover  the  cab- 
bage, a  sprinkling  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  simmer  until  the  cabbage  is  thoroughly  tender,  by  which 
time  the  milk  should  be  practically  all  boiled  away  or  ab- 
sorbed by  the  cabbage.  Stir  in  a  little  butter  just  before  serv- 
ing. 

Cabbage  and  Egg. 

Remove  the  outer  leaves  and  stalk  of  a  tender  cabbage  and 
shred  the  remainder  as  finely  as  possible.  Melt  an  ounce  of 
butter  in  a  frying  pan,  adding  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
boiling  water,  and  then  put  in  the  shredded  cabbage.  Season 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  cook  gently  until  the  cabbage  is  quite 
tender. 

Next  add  a  well-beaten  egg  and  cook  slowly  for  three  or  four 
minutes,  continually  stirring  the  mixture.  Now  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  sour  cream,  make  thoroughly  hot  and  serve  quickly. 

Curried  Cabbage. 

Take  all  the  outer  leaves  off  a  young  cabbage,  and  boil  the 
rest  until  half  cooked.  Drain  it  and  chop  it  finely,  place  it 
in  a  pan  with  some  curry  sauce,  and  simmer  it  gently  for  one 
hour.  Serve  in  a  border  of  boiled  rice.  The  outer  leaves  of 
the  cabbage  may  be  saved  for  the  stock  pot. 

Cabbage  with  Cheese  Sauce. 

Boil  a  cabbage,  cut  it  in  eight  pieces,  then  place  it  in  one 
pint  of  cheese  sauce,  and  make  it  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve 
with  the  sauce  poured  over  it. 

Cabbage  a  la  Creme. 

Drain  a  boiled  cabbage,  cut  it  up  small,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  a  season- 
ing of  pepper  and  salt;  stir  all  together  over  the  fire,  till 
thoroughly  hot,  then  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with 
fried  croutons. 

Stewed  Cabbage. 

Wash  a  large  cabbage  thoroughly,  blanch  in  boiling  water, 
and  then  place  it  in  a  large  saucepan  containing  boiling  water, 
to  which  about  half  an  ounce  of  salt  and  a  small  piece  of  com- 


128  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

mon  soda  have  been  added,  and  let  boil  (leaving  off  the  lid 
of  the  pan)  until  the  cabbage  is  tender,  but  not  enough  to 
break.  Take  it  out  of  the  pan  and  plunge  it  into  a  basin  of 
cold  salted  water  and  leave  it  until  it  is  quite  cold,  and  then 
drain  it  on  a  clean  cloth.  Fry  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion 
for  five  minutes,  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove,  and 
place  the  cabbage  (cut  into  quarters)  in  it;  pour  in  sufficient 
stock  (or  milk  and  water  will  do)  to  cover  it,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 
Take  out  the  cabbage  and  put  it  into  a  colander,  and  stand  the 
latter  on  a  plate  in  the  oven.  Thicken  the  sauce,  strain  it, 
and  add  a  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  put  the  cab- 
bage on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  garnish  it  with 
small  triangular  pieces  of  fried  bread. 

Baked  Cabbage. 

Boil  a  large  cabbage  until  tender  and  then  chop  it  coarsely. 
Rub  a  fireproof  baking  dish  with  a  little  butter  and  place  in  it 
a  layer  of  the  cabbage.  Over  this  pour  a  little  white  sauce, 
sprinkle  freely  with  grated  cheese,  and  season  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Repeat  this  process  till  the  dish  is  full,  covering  the  top 
with  a  thin  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  upon  which  should  be  placed 
a  few  tiny  bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half 
an  hour. 

Remains  of  cold  cabbage  and  other  vegetables  can  be  used 
up  in  this  way,  a  very  savory  dish  being  prepared  of  mixed 
cooked  vegetables. 

Cabbage  with  Cream. 

Chop  a  small  cold  boiled  cabbage  and  let  it  drain  well.  Now 
mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream  or  good  milk,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Warm  in 
a  saucepan,  stirring  frequently,  and  then  add  two  whisked 
eggs.  Place  the  whole  in  a  buttered  stewpan  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  very  hot  and  lightly  browned. 

Stewed  Cabbage. 

Remove  the  outer  leaves  and  scoop  out  the  heart  of  a  large 
parboiled  cabbage.  Stuff  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  minced 
odds  and  ends  of  meat  or  fish,  a  little  bacon,  breadcrumbs,  or 
cold  boiled  rice,  bound  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  sea- 
soned with  onion,  herbs,  etc.,  to  taste.  Tie  up  the  cabbage 
neatly,  place  it  in  an  earthenware  cooking  pot  or  enameled 
stewpan,  and  simmer  in  water,  or  better  still,  in  good  stock 
for  an  hour.  Carefully  remove  the  string  from  the  cabbage 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  129 

before  serving  and  pour  over  it  the  strained  stock.  If  the  cab- 
bage has  been  cooked  in  water,  any  good  sauce  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  stock. 

Fried  potatoes  or  potato  croquettes  can  be  served  with  this 
dish. 

Sauerkraut. 

A  dish  dear  to  the  heart  of  our  German  cousins,  and  one 
which  involves  very  little  trouble  in  preparation,  and  is  more- 
over, very  wholesome. 

Take  three  large  cabbages,  shred  thoroughly  and  place  in  a 
wooden  tub  with  a  cupful  of  water,  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Thoroughly  mix  and  cover 
closely,  placing  a  weight  upon  the  cover.  Keep  thus  for  about 
three  weeks  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  during  which  a  slight 
fermentation  will  take  place. 

At  the  end  of  this  time  it  should  be  cooked  gently  for  sev- 
eral hours,  and  may  be  served  with  slices  of  boiled  bacon  or 
sausages. 

Red  Cabbage  and  Apples. 

Place  in.  an  enameled  saucepan  a  red  cabbage  with  just 
enough  water  to  cover  it.  Add  four  or  five  peeled  and  cored 
apples,  a  little  butter,  two  cloves  and  pepper  and  salt.  Now 
cook  slowly  for  at  least  three  hours.  Just  before  serving  stir 
into  the  sauce  a  spoonful  of  vinegar. 

Carrots  a  la  Flamande. 

Take  about  twelve  young  carrots,  blanch  and  rub  off  skins. 
Now  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar,  some  finely  minced  parsley,  a  season- 
ing of  pepper  and  salt,  and  sufficient  water  to  cover  well; 
allow  to  simmer  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  when  they 
should  be  quite  tender,  shaking  them  once  or  twice  in  the 
process.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  yolk 
of  one  egg,  beaten  up  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  new 
milk  and  serve  very  hot. 

Glazed  Carrots. 

Blanch  some  small  young  carrots,  as  uniform  in  size  as  pos- 
sible, and  dry  them  well;  put  them  into  a  pan  with  just  enough 
stock  to  cover,  and  a  lump  of  loaf  sugar;  boil  quickly  till  the 
stock  is  reduced  to  a  glaze,  then  add  to  this  one  and  a  half 
ounces  of  butter,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  stir  them  in 
this  till  the  liquid  is  all  absorbed,  and  the  carrots  are  quite 
glazed  with  the  butter.  Serve  hot. 


130  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Stewed  Carrots. 

Take  a  bunch  of  young  carrots,  and  after  scraping  thor- 
oughly cut  into  neat  pieces  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  in  salted 
water.  After  draining,  place  the  carrots  in  a  stewpan  with 
an  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  couple  of  pinches 
of  castor  sugar,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Sprinkle  over 
them  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour  and  fry  gently  for  a  few  min- 
utes, frequently  shaking  the  stewpan.  Now  add  half  a  pint 
of  white  stock  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  and 
skimming  frequently. 

As  soon  as  the  carrots  are  quite  tender  stir  in  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a  tablespoonful  of  good  cream.  Keep 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  whole  is  blended,  but  not  to 
boil;  then  serve  on  a  hot  dish.  A  few  triangles  of  fried  bread 
should  be  arranged  round  the  carrots  and  the  whole  sprinkled 
with  a  little  chopped  parsley. 

Carrots  and  Peas,  a  la  Creme. 

Scrape  and  wash  some  young  carrots,  blanch  and  drain  them 
on  a  cloth.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  small  stewpan,  and 
when  it  has  melted  add  the  carrots,  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  allow  to  simmer  for  six 
minutes,  then  cover  with  thick  white  sauce,  and  let  them  cook 
slowly  until  they  are  quite  tender.  Just  before  taking  the 
stewpan  from  the  fire,  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice  to  the 
sauce,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese;  place  the  carrots  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  scatter  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley  over  them. 

To  Cook  Cauliflower. 

Let  the  cauliflower  be  thoroughly  washed,  and  then  soaked 
in  water  to  which  salt  and  vinegar  have  been  added,  to  free  it 
from  any  insects  which  may  not  have  been  discovered.  Blanch 
and  then  place  it  in  a  basin  of  cold  water;  when  it  has  cooled, 
drain  and  plunge  it  (with  the  flower  downwards)  into  a  sauce- 
pan containing  fresh  boiling  salted  water,  to  which  a  pinch  of 
borax  and  three  or  four  lumps  of  sugar  have  been  added; 
keep  the  water  boiling  steadily  while  the  cauliflower  is  cook- 
ing, but  do  not  put  on  the  cover  of  the  pan,  and  remove  the 
scum  from  time  to  time,  to  prevent  it  adhering  to  the  cauli- 
flower. When  cooked,  place  it  carefully  on  a  clean  cloth  in  a 
colander,  cover  the  sides  of  the  cloth  over  the  top,  and  leave 
the  cauliflower  near  the  fire  to  drain;  after  which  serve. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  131 

Curried  Cauliflower. 

Boil  two  cauliflowers  carefully  without  breaking  the  heads. 
Take  the  flower  part  and  arrange  neatly  in  a  deep  dish.  Fry 
one  medium-sized  onion  (cut  in  slices)  in  clarified  fat  until 
brown,  mix  in  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour  and  three-quarters 
of  a  dessertspoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  three  parts  of  a  tum- 
blerful of  weak  stock;  boil  for  ten  minutes,  strain,  and  pour 
over  the  cauliflowers. 

Cauliflower  Croutons. 

Make  the  required  number  of  bread  croutons  and  fry.  Take 
one  spray  of  cooked  cauliflower  for  each  crouton  and  place  it 
in  the  hollow  in  the  center.  Pour  a  cheese  sauce  over  very 
neatly  and  serve  very  hot. 

Aigrettes  of  Cauliflower. 

Boil  a  cauliflower  in  plently  of  salted  water  to  which  a  little 
vinegar  and  a  pinch  of  sugar  have  been  added;  drain  it  well, 
and  when  cold  divide  it  into  sprigs.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  containing  half  a  pint  of  water;  as  soon  as  it 
boils,  stir  in  a  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  continue  stirring  un- 
til a  stiff  paste  is  formed,  which  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan 
without  sticking  to  them,  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  stove, 
and  when  the  paste  has  cooled  a  little  stir  in  two  whole  eggs 
(beaten),  and  three  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  and  spread  the 
paste  on  a  plate  to  cool.  Take  one  sprig  of  cauliflower  at  a 
time  and  envelop  it  in  the  paste,  place  in  a  frying  basket,  and 
drop  it  into  some  hot  fat  which  is  not  actually  boiling,  and  fry 
until  the  aigrettes  are  just  brown,  taking  care  not  to  put  too 
many  into  the  basket  at  once.  Serve  them  piled  upon  a  dish 
with  a  little  grated  cheese  sprinkled  over  them.  Many  cooked 
vegetables  can  be  served  in  this  way  such  as  artichokes,  sea- 
kale,  celery,  and  beetroots. 

Cauliflower  with  Onion  Sauce. 

Boil  the  cauliflower  and  place  in  a  fireproof  dish.  Cover 
with  onion  sauce,  sprinkle  with  brown  crumbs  and  make  very 
hot  in  the  oven.  Serve  very  hot. 

Cauliflower  Fritters. 

Break  a  cooked  cauliflower  up  into  neat  pieces,  dip  these 
in  frying  batter  till  well  covered,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Drain 
them  well,  sprinkle  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  coralline 
pepper.  Serve  at  once  on  a  napkin.  This  is  an  excellent  way 
of  using  up  cold  cauliflower. 


132  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cauliflower  Au  Gratin. 

Boil  the  cauliflower,  place  it  in  a  fireproof  dish,  pour  over  it 
an  ample  quantity  of  cheese  sauce,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese, 
and  brown  crumbs  and  bake  until  slightly  brown  on  the  top. 

Cauliflower  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

Clean  and  soak  the  cauliflower  in  salt  and  cold  water  for 
one  hour,  then  plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  returning  it  again 
to  cold  water.  After  this,  put  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water 
slightly  salted  (half  an  ounce  of  salt  to  one  gallon  of  water) 
and  boil  it  until  tender,  say  for  about  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes.  In  the  meantime,  make  half  a  pint  of  tomato  puree, 
and  when  the  cauliflower  is  cooked,  place  it  on  a  dish,  pour 
the  puree  over  it,  sift  some  finely  grated  brown  crumbs  over  it, 
and  serve. 

Cauliflower  Fritters. 

Take  a  large  parboiled  cauliflower,  and  after  draining 
divide  carefully  into  branches.  Dip  each  into  a  batter  made 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  milk,  the 
whipped  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  an  ounce  of  butter,  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.  Fry  each  branch  carefully  in  boiling  fat,  and 
drain  before  serving. 

Fried  Celery. 

Remove  the  leaves  from  three  sticks  of  celery  and  cut  them 
into  equal  lengths.  Place  these  in  a  stewpan  with  two  or  three 
slices  of  ham  and  the  same  quantity  of  bacon,  half  a  pint  of 
stock,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Simmer  gently  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  or  a  little  longer  if  the  celery  is  large.  When 
cool,  take  out  the  pieces  of  celery,  dip  them  first  in  beaten 
eggs,  and  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  butter.  Tomato 
sauce  should  be  served  with  the  dish. 

Stuffed  Cucumbers. 

Peel  and  split  lengthwise  some  thick  cucumbers,  carefully 
scoop  out  the  seeds,  and  stuff  with  a  mixture  made  of  chopped 
chicken  or  lamb,  cold  boiled  rice,  and  herbs,  moistened  with 
white  stock.  Bring  the  halves  together  and  place  in  an  earth- 
enware cooking  pot  or  enameled  stewpan,  add  a  cupful  of 
milk  or  white  stock,  and  stew  very  gently  until  quite  tender. 
Remove  the  cucumbers,  thicken  the  sauce  with  a  little  flour 
and  butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Strain 
carefully,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  capers  and  some  chopped 
parsley,  and  pour  it  over  the  cucumbers  before  serving. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  133. 

White  Cucumber  Sauce. 

Peel  two  cucumbers,  divide  each  lengthwise  into  four,  re- 
move the  pips,  and  cut  into  pieces  one  inch  long;  add,  in  stew- 
pan,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  let  stew  on  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
add  a  gill  of  white  sauce,  six  spoonfuls  of  milk,  broth,  or 
water,  simmer  gently  and  skim;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  liaison, 
and  serve  where  directed.  Remember,  however,  that  these 
garnitures  ought  to  be  served  under  the  meat  and  over  poultry. 

White  Cucumber  Puree. 

Peel  two  small  or  one  large  cucumber;  cut  in  slices,  put  in 
the  stewpan  with  the  same  vegetables,  etc.,  as  for  cauliflower; 
when  tender,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  three  gills  of  milk  or 
broth,  boil,  finishing  as  the  cauliflower. 

To  Cook  Corn. 

Open  a  small  can  of  corn  and  strain  off  the  liquid;  then 
simmer  the  corn  until  tender,  but  not  "  pulpy  "  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 
About  ten  minutes  will  suffice  for  the  cooking. 

Curried  Corn. 

Prepare  the  corn  as  before  and  heat  in  a  good  curry  sauce. 
Pile  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  and  surround  with  boiled  rice, 
garnished  with  strained  yolk  of  egg. 

Corn  and  Omelette. 

Prepare  the  omelette  as'  usual  and  have  ready  some  corn 
heated  in  white  sauce.  Just  before  serving  the  omelette  spread 
the  inner  portion  with  the  hot  corn. 

Corn  Rissoles. 

Take  the  cooked  corn  and  beat  it  in  white,  cheese,  or  to- 
mato sauce,  and  then  leave  until  cold.  Form  into  rissoles,  egg 
and  crumb  and  fry.  Serve  very  hot,  garnished  with  fried 
parsley. 

Corn  Au  Gratin. 

Cook  the  corn  as  before,  and  have  ready  some  white  sauce. 
Heat  a  fireproof  dish,  butter  it,  and  sprinkle  with  some  fine 
brown  crumbs.  Heat  the  corn  in  the  sauce  and  place  it  in  the 
dish,  cover  with  cheese  and  crumbs,  and  bake  for  twenty  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven. 

Corn  with  Buttered  Eggs. 
Have  ready  the  buttered  egg,  and  pile  it  in  the  center  of  a 


134  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

hot  fireproof  dish,  surround  with  the  cooked  corn  and  garnish 
with  small  circles  of  fried  bread. 

Egg  and  Corn  Toast. 

Prepare  the  egg  and  corn,  stir  them  together,  and  serve  very 
hot  on  buttered  toast. 

Corn   Fritters. 

Take  half  a  can  of  corn,  two  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  seasoning 
to  taste.  Drain  the  corn  into  a  bowl;  stir  in  the  flour  care- 
fully, add  the  parsley,  season,  and  lastly,  well  beat  the  eggs 
and  stir  those  in.  Have  ready  some  boiling  fat  in  a  frying- 
pan,  into  which  the  batter  should  be  dropped  in  dessertspoon- 
fuls. Drain  on  kitchen  paper,  and  serve  at  once  on  a  hot 
dish. 

Haricot  Beans. 

Haricot  beans  must  be  soaked  for  quite  twelve  hours  in 
cold  water,  then  put  into  a  pan  with  cold  water  slightly  salted 
(half  an  ounce  of  salt  to  one  gallon  of  water),  brought  slowly 
to  the  boil,  then  drawn  to  side  of  fire,  and  simmered  for  about 
two  hours. 

Haricot  Beans  with  Tomato  Puree. 

Cook  the  beans  as  above,  and  serve,  covered  with  some  to- 
mato puree. 

Haricot  Beans  a  la  Milanaise. 

Cook  the  beans  as  usual  and  serve  with  a  covering  of  sauce 
a  la  Milanaise,  which  should  be  made  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  —  Blanch  four  onions,  then  dry  and  cut  them  up,  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pinch  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  a  small  spoonful  of  salt.  Boil  a  tablespoonful  of  rice, 
and  when  cooked  add  it  to  the  onion;  moisten  with  one-half 
pint  of  milk  or  water,  cook  slowly,  stirring  occasionally;  when 
the  onions  are  soft  add  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-grated 
cheese.  Mix  well,  and  pass  through  a  sieve,  add  to  this  one- 
half  pint  of  white  sauce,  mix  thoroughly,  repeat,  and  pour 
over  the  beans. 

Lentils. 

Soak  the  lentils  for  at  least  twelve  hours  in  cold  water. 
Then  drain  and  place  them  in  a  pan  with  cold  salted  water 
(one  gallon  of  water  to  one-half  ounce  of  salt),  bring  them  to 
the  boil  and  then  simmer  until  the  lentils  are  quite  soft,  say 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  135 

for  about  one  hour.  After  having  been  cooked  like  this  they 
can  be  served  as  advised  for  haricot  beans  or  plain,  save  for 
the  addition  of  a  pat  of  butter  melting  among  them,  a  sprinkling 
of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  soupcon  of  pepper  and  salt. 

Lentil  Fritters. 

Take  four  ounces  of  cooked  lentils,  two  ounces  of  bread- 
crumbs, one  braised  onion,  one  egg,  celery  salt,  and  pepper. 
Mix  well.  Take  up  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  fry 
a  golden  brown. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. 

Skin  the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  the  stalks;  place  them  on  a 
greased  tin,  sprinkle  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt  and  cook  in 
the  oven  or  before  the  fire.  Pour  off  the  liquor  from  the 
mushrooms,  make  some  toast  and  spread  with  butter,  and  then 
pour  the  mushroom  liquor  over.  Place  the  mushrooms  on  the 
toast  and  serve  very  hot. 

Mushrooms  on  Toast  with  Devonshire  Cream. 

Make  a  number  of  croutons  of  lightly  fried  bread  and  choose 
a  like  number  of  mushrooms  the  same  size  as  the  croutons. 
Peel  the  mushrooms,  rinse  them  in  warm  water  to  remove  any 
grit,  and  remove  the  stalks.  Place  them  on  a  greased  baking 
sheet,  stalk  side  uppermost.  Put  some  small  pieces  of  butter 
on  each  mushroom,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Cover  with 
buttered  paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  from  ten  to 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  a  mushroom  on  each  crouton,  and  on 
each  mushroom  place  a  spoonful  of  clotted  Devonshire  cream. 

Blanched  Mushrooms. 

Get  a  punnet  of  fresh  mushrooms,  remove  the  stalks  (re- 
serving them  for  chopping),  wash  the  heads  in  a  bowl  of  clean 
water,  and  drain  in  a  sieve;  put  into  a  stewpan  two  wine- 
glasses of  cold  water,  and  a  little  salt;  peel  each  head  neatly, 
and  put  them  into  the  stewpan  immediately,  or  they  will  turn 
black;  set  your  stewpan  on  a  brisk  fire,  let  them  boil  quickly 
five  minutes,  put  them  into  a  bowl  ready  for  use;  chop  the 
stalks,  and  peel  very  fine,  put  them  into  stewpan  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  liquor  the  mushrooms  have  been  boiled 
in;  let  them  simmer  three  minutes,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and 
use  where  indicated.  Peeling  mushrooms  is  an  art  that  prac- 
tice alone  can  attain;  if  they  are  very  fresh  and  white,  wash 
them  quickly  and  wipe  them  on  a  cloth;  throw  them  into  the 
liquid  above-mentioned. 


136  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

White  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Use  small  white  ones;  cut  the  dark  part  out  and  remove  the 
stalk,  wash  in  several  waters,  put  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little 
butter,  salt,  pepper,  juice  of  lemon,  saute  it  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  a  gill  of  white  sauce,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  milk, 
or  water;  boil,  and  serve  under  any  white  meat. 

Mushroom  Croutes. 

Cut  some  rounds  of  bread  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick  and  scoop  them  out  rather  thinner  in  the  center,  fry  un- 
til a  golden  brown,  drain,  and  keep  hot.  Place  the  required 
number  of  mushrooms  on  a  greased  baking-tin  with  a  piece  of 
butter  in  each,  and  place  in  the  oven  to  cook.  In  the  mean- 
time, mince  one  or  two  mushrooms  and  place  them  in  a  pan 
with  a  small  quantity  of  good  brown  sauce.  When  cooked 
place  a  spoonful  on  each  croute,  and  a  whole  mushroom  on  the 
top  of  each.  Serve  very  hot. 

Mushrooms  Au  Gratin. 

Peel  the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  their  stalks,  and  place  the 
heads  in  a  buttered  fireproof  dish.  Peel  the  stalks  and  wash 
them,  add  the  peeling,  dry  them  and  cut  them  up.  Make  a 
sauce  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  when  melted  add  half  an 
ounce  of  flour,  stirring  into  it  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Stir  well, 
bring  to  the  boil,  and  then  throw  in  the  chopped  stalks,  a 
dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
chopped  onion,  a  dusting  of  pepper  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Simmer  the  sauce  until  it  thickens,  strain  and  add  some 
browning.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  mushrooms,  sprinkle  some 
browned  breadcrumbs  over  the  whole,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  ten  minutes. 

Mushrooms  and  Tomatoes,  Baked. 

Put  the  required  number  of  small  tomatoes  on  a  baking-tin, 
greased  with  butter  or  dripping.  Sprinkle  over  them  a  little 
pepper  and  salt  and  cover  them  with  greased  paper.  Place  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  about  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Serve  between  rows  of  baked  mushrooms. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. 

Peel  and  rinse  the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  the  ends  of  the 
stalks.  Stew  them  gently  in  water,  stock,  or  milk  until  quite 
tender,  adding  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Then  thicken  the 
gravy  with  a  little  flour  and  let  it  cook  well,  stirring  carefully. 
Before  serving,  stir  in  a  little  cream  or  butter  and  send  to 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  137 

table  on  buttered  toast;  or  as  a  surround  to  a  dish  of  rice 
boiled  in  vegetable  stock. 

Baked  Mushrooms. 

Peel  the  mushrooms,  rinse  them  to  remove  any  grit,  and  cut 
off  the  ends  of  the  stalks.  Put  them  on  a  greased  baking- 
tin  with  the  stalk  side  upwards,  and  with  little  bits  of  butter 
on  each  mushroom,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Cover  them 
with  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  ten  to 
twenty  minutes,  until  tender.  Serve  on  buttered  toast  on  a 
hot  dish,  with  the  gravy  poured  over  them. 

Stuffed  Mushrooms. 

Take  about  a  dozen  good-size  cup  mushrooms  and  after  peel- 
ing and  removing  the  stalks  let  them  soak  for  an  hour  in 
salted  water.  In  the  meantime  mince  two  ounces  of  cooked 
tongue  or  ham  and  two  shallots.  Fry  the  shallots  in  some 
butter  till  a  golden  color.  Add  the  meat  and  a  small  French 
roll  previously  soaked  in  milk  and  thoroughly  mashed.  Mix 
the  whole  thoroughly,  adding  a  little  chopped  parsley,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  pepper  and  salt,  and  bind  with  the  yolks  of  two 
or  three  eggs. 

With  this  mixture  fill  the  hollows  of  the  mushrooms  and 
place  them  on  a  greased  plate  or  baking-tin.  Cover  with  a 
sheet  of  oiled  paper  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  ten 
minutes. 

Now  let  them  get  cold.  Dip  each  stuffed  mushroom  in  or- 
dinary frying  batter  and  fry  in  oil  or  good  dripping  until  a 
golden  color. 

The  fat  must  be  carefully  drained  from  them  before  serving. 

Mushrooms  and  Eggs. 

Cook  slowly  one  pound  of  sliced  mushrooms  until  tender  in 
just  sufficient  white  stock  to  cover  them,  adding  a  little  butter, 
onion,  herbs,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Press  the  whole  through 
a  sieve  and  pile  upon  a  plate,  covering  carefully  with  poached 
eggs.  Sprinkle  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt  before  serving. 

Stuffed  Vegetable  Marrow. 

Take  a  large  but  young  vegetable  marrow,  split  lengthwise, 
scoop  out  the  seeds  and  rub  in  some  salt.  -Take  half  a  pound 
of  savory  rice,  season  this  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped 
parsley.  Mix  all  well  together  and  lay  inside  the  marrow, 
tying  the  two  sides  together  with  broad  tape.  Boil  very 
slowly  for  about  an  hour  or  more,  according  to  size,  in  just 


138  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

enough  water  to  prevent  burning.     Serve  covered  with  white 
sauce,  or  with  tomato  or  curry  sauce. 

Fried  Vegetable  Marrow. 

Stew  a  vegetable  marrow  in  weak  stock,  then  stamp  into 
neat  rounds;  drain  dry,  dip  them  into  beaten  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  a  golden  brown. 

Vegetable  Marrow  Au  Gratin. 

Take  the  remains  of  a  vegetable  marrow  which  has  been 
boiled,  cut  it  into  rather  thin  slices  and  lay  in  a  shallow  fire- 
proof dish,  add  a  little  butter  or  dripping,  and  season  well; 
cover  with  raspings  and  a  little  grated  cheese,  and  brown  well 
before  quick  fire. 

Vegetable  Marrow  Fritters. 

Use  cold  cooked  vegetable  marrow  cut  in  squares,  dip  in 
batter  and  fry  a  golden  brown. 

A  Useful  Hint  About  Onions. 

Many  people  refrain  from  eating  onions  on  account  of  their 
disagreeable  effect.  If  the  following  is  tried,  it  will  be  found, 
probably,  that  they  may  be  eaten  with  impunity.  Before 
using  onions  for  any  purpose,  either  for  cooking  or  for  salads, 
peel  them  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water  (in  which  a 
piece  of  soda  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut  has  been  dissolved),  for 
about  ten  minutes.  Then  take  them  out  and  wash  in  fresh 
water.  The  soda  will  have  withdrawn  all  that  makes  them 
objectionable,  without  impairing  their  flavor. 

To  Fry  Onions. 

Put  as  many  peeled  onions  as  are  required  into  a  sauce- 
pan containing  cold  salted  water;  let  the  water  boil  up  and 
continue  boiling  for  seven  minutes,  then  drain  the  onions  and 
put  them  aside  util  they  are  cool.  Slice  them  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  separate  them  into  rings,  and  roll  them  up  in  a 
floured  cloth  until  it  is  time  to  fry  them.  Have  ready  a 
saucepan  containing  plenty  of  boiling  fat,  place  the  onion  rings 
—  not  too  many  at  a  time  —  in  a  wire  frying-basket,  and  cook 
them  until  they  are  crisp  and  of  a  golden  brown;  drain  on 
paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Onions  Stuffed. 

Peel  twelve  large  onions,  cut  a  piece  off  at  the  top  and 
bottom  to  give  them  a  flat  appearance,  blanch  and  lay  them 
on  a  cloth  to  dry;  take  the  middle  out  of  each  onion,  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  139 

fill  with  veal  forcemeat  (with  a  little  chopped  shallot  parsley, 
and  mushroom,  mixed  in  it),  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
well  buttered;  cover  with  white  broth,  and  allow  to  simmer 
over  a  slow  fire  until  covered  with  a  glaze,  and  tender;  turn 
them  over,  and  serve  where  required. 

Onions  Puree  with  Poached  Eggs. 

Fry  some  onions  in  thin  slices  and  chop  them  fine;  drain 
well,  and  simmer  them  in  stock  until  they  can  be  sieved. 
When  quite  smooth,  replace  in  the  pan,  and  add  a  little  nutril, 
and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  The  puree 
should  be  quite  thick.  Serve  very  hot,  with  poached  eggs 
on  the  top,  and  garnish  with  fried  croutons. 

Spanish  Onions  Au  Gratin. 

Boil  one  pound  of  Spanish  onions,  throwing  away  the  water 
after  it  first  comes  to  the  boil,  and  adding  fresh.  Well  butter 
a  fireproof  dish,  and  arrange  the  boiled  onions  in  it.  Fill  up 
the  crevices,  and  cover  the  top  with  browned  breadcrumbs 
and  grated  cheese,  moisten  with  little  milk,  season  well,  and 
over  all  place  a  layer  of  breadcrumbs  with  little  dabs  of  but- 
ter. Bake  until  a  nice  color. 

Spanish  Onions  en  Surprise. 

Put  some  Spanish  onions,  which  have  been  peeled  and 
washed,  into  a  saucepan  containing  plenty  of  cold  salted  water; 
when  the  water  boils  up  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove, 
and  let  them  cook  gently  until  they  are  parboiled.  Drain 
the  onions  and  carefully  remove  the  middles:  place  some 
savory  rice  in  each,  pressing  it  well  into  the  onion,  put  them 
on  a  baking-tin  which  has  been  rubbed  with  some  good  butter 
or  beef  dripping,  and  surround  them  with  small  pieces  of  fat, 
cover  the  onions  with  greased  paper,  and  let  them  cook  slowly 
in  a  moderately-heated  oven  for  four  hours,  basting  them  fre- 
quently. Serve  with  thick  tomato  sauce. 

Stuffed  Onions. 

Remove  the  centers  from  six  large  parboiled  onions  and 
mince  these  with  six  mushrooms,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sausage 
meat,  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  capers, 
two  pickled  gherkins,  and  a  little  herbs,  pepper,  and  salt  to 
taste.  Stir  in  about  half  a  cupful  of  stewed  tomatoes,  fill  the 
onions  carefully  with  the  mixture  and  bake  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Any  white  savory  sauce  may  be  served  with  this  dish. 


140  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

To  Mash  Potatoes. 

To  six  good-sized  cooked  potatoes  allow  one  ounce  of  butter, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  milk  and  cream  mixed,  or  all 
milk.  Salt  and  white  pepper.  Put  the  potatoes  through  a 
masher,  melt  the  butter  in  the  milk  and  cream,  and  beat 
thoroughly  well  together  and  make  hot. 

New  Potatoes. 

Place  the  potatoes  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  leave  them 
for  a  few  minutes;  then  rub  or  scrape  off  the  skin.  Place  in 
cold  water  in  a  saucepan  with  some  salt  and  sprig  of  mint, 
and  boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  drain  and  dry.  Put  into  the 
dish  with  a  tiny  piece  of  butter  on  each  potato. 

Curried  Potatoes. 

Slice  some  hot  boiled  potatoes,  and  pour  over  them  a  curry 
sauce. 

Little  Potato  Pies. 

Mash  some  potato  with  plenty  of  egg  sauce,  flavor  with 
salt  and  pepper,  add  either  grated  cheese,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  tomato  puree  or  the  same  quantity  of  onion  puree.  Place 
in  little  fireproof  china  pans  and  bake  until  top  is  lightly 
browned. 

Stuffed  Potatoes. 

Bake  the  required  number  of  large  potatoes,  all  of  a  size 
and  shape.  Cut  off  a  slice  lengthwise  and  scoop  out  most 
of  the  interior.  Mash  this  removed  portion  with  plenty  of 
egg  sauce  and  season  with  salt  and  'pepper.  Pipe  the  edges 
of  the  potato  cases  with  mashed  potato  and  make  thoroughly 
hot. 

Souffle  Potatoes. 

Wash  some  large  potatoes,  and  bake  them  without  removing 
the  skins  until  they  are  thoroughly  cooked.  Cut  a  small  piece 
off  the  top  of  each,  and  with  the  handle  of  a  teaspoon  scoop 
out  the  inside;  mash  this  carefully  with  a  fork,  or  pass  it 
through  a  potato  masher;  add  a  little  milk,  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  beat  the  potato  until  it  is 
light  and  creamy.  Fill  the  skins  with  the  mixture.  When 
ready  put  the  potatoes  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  place  in  a  quick 
oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

A  Savory  Potato  Dish. 

Rub  a  fireproof  china  dish  with  onion,  then  butter  it,  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  141 

sift  breadcrumbs  lightly  over.  Slice  some  cold  boiled  potatoes 
into  this,  place  a  few  bits  of  butter  over,  a  seasoning  of  white 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  few  white  breadcrumbs.  Repeat  this 
until  the  dish  is  full,  then  cover  with  fine  breadcrumbs  to 
which  has  been  added  one-fourth  of  the  quantity  of  grated 
cheese.  Bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve 
with  finely-chopped  capers  scattered  over. 

Potato  and  Tomato  Savory. 

Take  some  cold  cooked  potatoes  and  cut  in  slices;  peel  the 
same  quantity  of  tomatoes;  remove  the  hard  center.  Arrange 
in  alternate  layers  in  a  stewpan  in  which  three  ounces  of  but- 
ter has  been  melted,  and  sprinkle  with  pepper,  salt,  and  pars- 
ley. Cook  gently  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then. 
When  thoroughly  hot,  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Potatoes  and  Eggs  Au  Gratin. 

Take  six  or  seven  baked  or  boiled  potatoes  and  cut  them 
in  slices,  and  slice  two  hard-boiled  eggs.  Place  them  in  layers 
in  a  baking  dish,  sprinkle  each  layer  with  grated  cheese.  Pour 
over  four  ounces  of  melted  butter  or  white  sauce,  and  put  into 
a  slow  oven  until  hot.  Brown  on  the  top. 

Potato  Pyramids. 

Take  about  six  cooked  potatoes,  mashed  with  just  sufficient 
milk  to  enable  the  potato  to  be  formed  into  small  pyramids; 
neatly  arrange  these  on  a  fireproof  dish,  score  the  outside  of 
the  cones,  sprinkle  with  white  pepper  and  salt,  and  then  with 
grated  cheese.  Pour  over  all  some  melted  butter  and  cook  in 
a  slow  oven  until  quite  hot.  Serve  at  once  in  the  same  dish 
with  onion  puree  poured  round. 

Potato  Balls  with  Cheese  Flavoring. 

Take  some  cooked  potatoes,  crumble  and  flavor  with  grated 
cheese,  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  sufficient  milk  to  make  the 
mixture  moist  and  smooth;  form  into  balls,  fry  and  serve 
powdered  with  grated  cheese.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Potato  and  Rice  Cakes. 

Take  any  remains  of  mashed  potatoes  and  add  half  the 
quantity  of  boiled  rice,  mix  them  all  together  with  a  little 
butter,  season  well  with  pepper,  salt  and  cayenne.  Roll  out 
on  a  floured  board  to  about  an  inch  and  a  half  thickness,  cut 
into  rounds  or  squares  with  a  cutter.  Brush  over  with  beaten 
egg,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


142  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Potato  Mold. 

Mash  one  pound  of  well-boiled  potatoes  with  the  same  quan- 
tity of  boiled  mashed  carrots;  pass  through  a  fine  wire  sieve, 
mix  all  well  together  with  warm  milk,  and  an  ounce  of  butter; 
place  in  a  buttered  mold,  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  min- 
utes; turn  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  brown  in  the  oven.  Serve 
with  curry,  tomato  or  chutney  sauce. 

Potato  Cromeskies,  with  Mushroom. 

Have  ready  some  mushrooms  stewed  in  white  sauce  (the 
mushrooms  cut  into  small  pieces).  Make  some  smoothed 
mashed  potato  and  add  to  it  a  beaten  yolk  of  egg.  Form  balls 
of  the  potato.  Hollow  out  a  place  in  each,  fill  with  the  mush- 
room mixtures.  Cover  with  more  potato;  egg,  crumb,  fry,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Potato  and  Cabbage  Cakes. 

Take  some  cold  potato  and  cabbage,  about  equal  quantities 
of  both,  mash  smoothly  together,  adding  beaten  egg,  white 
sauce,  or  melted  butter  to  moisten.  Flavor  plentifully  with 
pepper,  add  a  little  salt.  Form  into  round  cakes,  flour  and 
bake  or  fry. 

Rechauffe  of  New  Potatoes. 

Put  into  a  pan  from  half  an  ounce  to  one  ounce  of  butter, 
add  a  good  dessertspoonful  of  chives,  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
dust  of  nutmeg  to  taste;  when  the  whole  is  smoothly  blended, 
pour  in  sufficient  cream  or  new  milk  and  stir  all  together  until 
it  boils  up,  then  add  as  many  cold  cooked  and  sliced  new  po- 
tatoes as  you  want,  and  allow  them  to  heat  thoroughly  in  the 
sauce  without  actually  boiling,  which  would  break  them;  serve 
them  with  a  dust  of  coralline  pepper. 

Cream  Potatoes. 

Having  washed  and  peeled  the  number  of  potatoes  required, 
cut  them  into  very  thin  slices,  and  as  much  the  same  size  as 
possible.  Place  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  then 
drain  them  and  dry  on  a  soft  clean  cloth.  Have  ready  a  fire- 
proof dish  with  a  closely-fitting  lid,  butter  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  it,  and  place  over  all,  after  filling  with  potato,  a  layer 
of  butter.  'Fix  the  lid  on  firmly,  and  place  the  dish  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  when  serve. 

Potato  Croquettes. 

Take  one  pound  of  cold  cooked  potato  and  mash  until  all 
the  lumps  have  disappeared,  add  a  pat  of  butter  and  enough 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  143 

milk  or  cream  to  make  the  potato  soft  and  of  the  right  con- 
sistency to  form  into  balls.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  very  small  quantity  of  chives  (if  liked),  mix  well 
and  form  into  balls.  Coat  them  with  eggs,  roll  them  in  finely- 
grated  breadcrumbs,  fry  a  golden  brown,  drain  and  serve. 

I  Potatoes  a  la  Lyonnaise. 

Select  some  waxy  potatoes  which  have  been  boiled  or 
steamed  and  allowed  to  become  cold;  cut  them  into  dice- 
shaped  pieces  and  flour  them.  Put  some  clarified  drippings 
(about  an  ounce  is  sufficient  for  half  a  dozen  medium-sized 
potatoes)  into  a  frying  pan,  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  onion 
(which  has  been  scalded  and  finely  chopped)  and  the  potatoes, 
and  fry  them  till  they  are  slightly  browned,  taking  care  to 
turn  them  constantly,  so  that  they  do  not  burn.  Then  pour 
into  the  pan  a  small  quantity  of  stock  or  milk,  and  when  it 
boils  add  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  serve  very  hot. 

Potatoes  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Boil  some  new  potatoes,  then  slice  them,  and  heat  them 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  some  minced  parsley,  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice,  and  a  half  teacupful  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Puffed  Potatoes. 

Peel  the  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  slices  about  one-eighth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  each  slice  into  half.  Soak  the 
potatoes  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour.  Dry  well  by  rolling 
them  up  in  a  cloth.  Put  plenty  of  clean  fat  into  a  stewpan 
and  as  soon  as  it  is  hot  (not  boiling)  put  in  the  potatoes  (in 
a  frying  basket).  Let  them  cook  slowly  until  they  are  tender, 
but  they  must  on  no  account  be  allowed  to  get  brown.  Put 
aside  on  paper  to  drain.  When  they  have  had  time  to  cool, 
prepare  a  bath  of  boiling  fat.  Place  some  of  the  potatoes 
(not  too  many  at  a  time)  in  a  frying  basket.  Immerse  them 
in  the  boiling  fat,  when  they  should  puff  up,  and  quickly  be- 
come a  golden  brown.  Remove  the  basket  directly  the  pota- 
toes are  ready.  When  all  are  done,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve  at  once.  The  secret  of  success  lies  in  the 
two  cookings,  and  the  potatoes  must  be  perfectly  dry  before 
cooking. 

Potato  Ribbons. 

Wash,  dry,  and  peel  some  large  potatoes.  Now  pare  them 
round  and  round  into  long  strips.  The  strips  should  not  be 


144  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

too  thin,  or  they  will  break.  Place  in  a  frying  basket  and 
drop  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  a  delicate  brown;  drain  and  sprin- 
kle with  salt,  cayenne,  and  white  pepper. 

Potatoes  and  Cheese. 

Beat  two  large  eggs  thoroughly,  add  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  and  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Next 
butter  a  lange  baking  dish  and  put  in  first  a  layer  of  slices 
of  cold  potatoes.  Sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt  and  add  carefully  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
eggs  and  milk.  Repeat  the  process  till  the  dish  is  full,  letting 
the  top  layer  be  one  of  grated  cheese.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  half  an  hour  and  serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is 
cooked. 

This  is  a  simple  and  economical  way  of  using  up  cold  pota- 
toes. It  makes  an  excellent  supper  dish. 

Boiled  Potatoes. 

Cook  the  potatoes  in  their  jackets  in  salted  water,  after 
which  peel  them,  cut  into  slices  and  place  on  a  dish.  Pour 
over  them  a  white  sauce  with  capers,  or  gherkins  cut  into 
pieces  about  the  size  of  capers. 

Potato  Puff  Balls. 

Take  a  cupful  of  crushed  bread  rusks  with  three  cupfuls 
of  mashed  potatoes  and  mix  with  two  well-beaten  eggs. 
Flavor  with  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
If  the  mixture  is  not  very  stiff  add  a  little  more  bread.  Make 
into  small  balls  and  throw  into  boiling  salted  water,  in  which 
let  them  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  by  which  time  they 
will  have  nearly  doubled  in  size. 

Tomato  sauce  may  be  served  with  these. 

Dutch  Fried  Potatoes. 

Put  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onion  into  a  frying  pan  with 
sufficient  butter,  and  let  it  brown.  Then  add  two  cupfuls  of 
sliced  raw  potatoes,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry 
till  they  are  lightly  browned.  Now  beat  up  an  egg,  pour  it 
over  the  potatoes,  and  serve  at  once. 

Potato  Mold. 

Boil  one  pound  of  good  floury  potatoes  and  rub  them  through 
a  hair  sieve  into  a  large  bowl.  While  still  hot  work  into  the 
potatoes  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  ounce  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  seasoning  with  a  little  pepper.  Next  melt 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  stir  well  into  the  potatoes, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  145 

afterwards  adding  the  whisked  whites  of  the  four  eggs.  Mix 
very  thoroughly  and  then  place  the  whole  in  a  buttered  pud- 
ding mold  which  must  be  not  quite  filled.  Tie  a  sheet  of 
paper  over  the  mold  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

Potato  Puree. 

Although  every  English-woman  knows  how  to  prepare 
mashed  potatoes  it  cannot  be  denied  that  French  women  turn 
out  a  superior  article;  and  it  may,  therefore,  be  of  interest  to 
describe  the  French  mode  of  preparing  this  dish. 

Peel  eight  fairly  large  potatoes  and  cut  into  quarters.  Then 
wash  them  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  cold  water 
to  just  cover.  Sprinkle  with  a  little  salt  and  boil  for  half  an 
hour.  After  draining  rub  the  potatoes  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quarter  of  strong  stock  —  a 
little  meat  extract  will  do  —  a  suspicion  of  grated  nutmeg, 
a  little  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  an  ounce  of  butter.  Stir 
this  briskly  over  the  fire,  for  the  lightness  of  the  puree  will  de- 
pend mainly  upon  the  vigor  with  which  the  stirring  is  done. 

When  ready  pile  up  the  puree  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  it  at 
once;  or  the  surface  may  be  smoothed  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife  and  brushed  with  beaten  egg,  after  which  the  dish  is 
baked  for  about  fifteen  minutes  till  the  surface  is  nicely 
browned. 

Potato  Pie. 

Mix  together  four  boiled  potatoes  sliced,  a  tablespoonful  of 
minced  onion,  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  half  a  cupful  of  new  milk.  Stir  thor- 
oughly and  place  in  a  dish.  Over  this  spread  a  layer  of  bread- 
crumbs mixed  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Bake  the  whole  thor- 
oughly. 

Pilgrim  Potatoes. 

Mix  together  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  a  cupful  of 
milk,  a  beaten  egg,  and  a  little  parsley.  To  this  add  four 
sliced  onions  previously  fried  in  butter.  After  stirring  thor- 
oughly, slice  six  large  boiled  potatoes  into  the  mixture,  and 
add  just  enough  milk  to  cover  the  whole.  Sprinkle  freely 
with  breadcrumbs,  a  little  nutmeg,  and  some  chopped  parsley, 
and  bake  until  well  browned. 

Green  Peas  Stewed. 

Put  a  pint  of  young  peas,  boiled  very  green,  into  a  stewpan, 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  two  ounces  of  but- 


146  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ter,  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  and  two  button  onions,  with  pars- 
ley, tied  together;  boil  ten  minutes;  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  liaison,  stir  in  quickly,  and  serve. 

Green  Peas  with  Bacon. 

Put  a  pint  of  well-boiled  peas  into  a  stewpan,  with  five 
spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  two  of  brown  gravy,  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  two  button  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  let  it 
boil  about  ten  minutes;  have  ready  braised  about  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  cut  it  in  dice  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  square,  add  it  to  the  peas,  take  out  the  onions  and  pars- 
ley, season  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar;  mix  well  together,  stew  twenty  minutes,  and  serve. 

Puree  of  Green  Peas. 

A  good  way  to  use  rather  hard  peas.  Boil  the  peas  with 
mint,  salt,  and  sugar,  and  when  quite  done,  rub  through  a 
sieve,  or,  if  too  hard,  pound  in  a  mortar,  mix  with  three  ounces 
of  butter  (to  one  pint  of  peas),  add  white  pepper,  and  add  a 
little  sap  green  if  a  bad  color.  Stir  in  a  stewpan  over  a  clear 
hot  fire  and  serve  in  the  center  of  a  dish  of  nut  cutlets, 
semolina  cakes,  etc. 

Peas  a  la  Franchise  (Hot). 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  a  few  sprigs 
of  mint,  half  a  peeled  onion,  and  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk  or  cream.  Add  the  peas,  cover  the  saucepan,  and 
cook  gently  for  half  an  hour  or  rather  longer.  When  the 
peas  are  cooked,  remove  the  onion  and  mint,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  a  dust  of  white  sugar,  and  serve. 
Peas  and  Lettuce. 

Take  four  heads  of  lettuce  which  have  previously  been  par- 
boiled in  a  quart  of  any  kind  of  broth,  and  after  removing 
the  centers  fill  with  a  mixture  of  green  peas  and  a  little  flour 
and  minced  onion.  Tie  each  lettuce  carefully  and  simmer  for 
one  hour  in  half  a  pint  of  white  stock.  Remove  the  strings, 
arrange  the  lettuces  carefully  on  toast,  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  all. 

Seakale  with  White  Sauce. 

Tie  it  in  bundles,  and  put  into  boiling  salted  water  with 
a  little  butter.  Boil,  with  the  lid  off  the  saucepan,  until  the 
seakale  is  tender.  Drain  and  serve  on  toast.  White  sauce 
should  be  poured  over  it.  Seakale  is  sometimes  boiled  in  milk, 
which  should  afterwards  be  used  for  the  sauce. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  147 

Fried   Seakale. 

Boil  the  seakale,  cut  it  into  pieces  of  a  convenient  size,  dip 
into  flour,  then  pass  it  through  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry 
until  of  a  golden  brown. 

Sorrel  Sauce  or  Puree. 

Wash  well  four  handfuls  of  sorrel,  put  it  nearly  dry  into 
a  middle-sized  stewpan,  with  a  little  butter;  let  it  melt,  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  one  of 
pepper,  moisten  to  a  thick  puree,  with  milk,  or  broth,  or  cream ; 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it  back  in  a  stewpan,  warm  again, 
add  two  whole  eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  well,  and 
serve  where  directed. 

Spinach  Patties  (Hot). 

Take  one  pound  of  spinach  leaves  pick  and  wash  them  well, 
and  after  blanching,  drain  them  and  place  them  in  cold  water, 
remove,  press,  and  strain  to  get  rid  of  as  much  moisture  as 
possible.  Chop  them  up,  place  in  a  double  pan  and  cook  by 
hot  air,  or  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
flour,  and  after  stirring  this  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  add 
the  spinach.  Stir  for  five  minutes,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  milk  and  stir  this  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  then 
add  half  a  pint  of  milk,  stirring  steadily  until  the  liquor  is 
almost  dried  up.  Remove  from  the  pan  and  pass  through  a 
sieve,  then  return  to  the  fire  and  add  a  small  pat  of  butter 
and  keep  very  hot.  Have  ready  the  required  number  of  pastry- 
patties.  Quickly  make  some  buttered  egg,  place  some  of  the 
spinach  in  each  case,  with  a  spoonful  of  buttered  egg  on  the 
top,  and  serve  at  once  very  hot. 

Spinach  and  Eggs. 

Cook  two  pounds  of  spinach  by  the  hot  air  process,  or  boil 
it;  when  it  is  well  drained,  pass  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve. 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is 
melted  stir  in  the  spinach.  Season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 
Pile  in  a  hot  dish  and  decorate  with  sieved  yolk  of  egg,  quar- 
ters of  hard-boiled  egg,  or  arrange  in  a  flat  bed,  and  lay 
neatly  poached  eggs  on  the  top,  or  arrange  as  a  border  with 
scrambled  eggs  in  the  center. 

Spinach  with  Cream. 
Wash  the   spinach   in   six   or   seven   waters,   to   remove  all 


148  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

grit,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  a  very  little  water 
and  salt;  when  done,  strain  very  dry  and  chop  it  up  very  fine. 
Warm  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  the  spinach  in, 
stir  until  the  moisture  quite  evaporates,  then  add  a  very  little 
salt,  a  tiny  pinch  of  sugar  (a  very  little  nutmeg,  if  liked), 
a  pinch  of  flour,  and  one  large  tablespoonful  of  cream,  and 
let  the  whole  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Then  put 
through  a  sieve  and  keep  hot.  In  the  meantime,  fry  in  fat 
some  bread  cut  into  fingers,  about  two  inches  long  and  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  wide,  and  plant  them  in  little  rows  all  over  the 
spinach  when  dished. 

Spinach  cooked  thus  is  delicious,  and  a  very  different  mat- 
ter from  the  stringy  green  mass  generally  served. 

Spinach  Pudding. 

Boil  two  pounds  of  spinach  in  the  usual  way,  and  after 
draining  and  cooling,  chop  and  place  it  in  an  enameled  sauce- 
pan with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  stock, 
and  half  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  —  made  by  simmering  to- 
gether white  stock,  cream  and  herbs  —  and  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer for  about  five  minutes.  After  cooling  mix  thoroughly 
with  half  a  pound  of  forcemeat  —  preferably  made  of  veal  — 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Fill  a 
mold  with  the  mixture  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Before 
serving  turn  out  the  pudding  on  a  dish  and  garnish  with  pieces 
of  turnip,  carrot,  and  potato  cut  into  shapes. 

Spinach  Fritters. 

Cook  some  spinach  in  the  usual  way,  pass  through  a  sieve 
and  place  in  an  earthenware  cooking  vessel  with  butter,  salt, 
spices,  a  little  sugar,  and  the  zest  of  lemon.  Mix  the  whole 
thoroughly  over  a  gentle  fire  and  then  add  a  glass  of  milk. 
Cook-  until  it  thickens,  then  stir  in  two  beaten  eggs.  The 
mixture  is  then  made  into  fritters  and  fried. 

*  Spinach  Puree. 

Endive  is  often  used  in  France,  and  called  chicoree.  This 
puree  may  be  made  like  the  cauliflower,  or  only  plainly 
chopped,  put  into  a  pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  gill  of 
white  sauce,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  sugar. 

Tomatoes  Stuffed  with  Rice. 

Scald  the  tomatoes  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute  or  two, 
and  then  carefully  remove  the  skins.  Cut  a  small  piece  off 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  149 

the  top  of  each  and  remove  a  little  of  the  pulp.  Put  a  spoon- 
ful of  tomato  rice  into  the  tomatoes,  and  scatter  the  top  thickly 
with  fine  crumbs,  seasoned  with  celery  salt  and  cayenne. 
Spread  a  baking-tin  with  dripping;  place  the  tomatoes  in  it, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  half  an  hour. 

Tomatoes  Au  Gratin  with  Eggs. 

Butter  a  fireproof  dish  and  put  in  a  layer  of  browned  bread- 
crumbs, moisten  with  a  little  stock  and  season  well,  then  add 
a  layer  of  sliced  tomatoes  and  repeat  until  the  dish  is  full, 
having  a  layer  of  dry  breadcrumbs  on  top;  put  little  dabs  of 
butter  on  it  to  help  it  to  brown  nicely,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 
When  nearly  done,  break  carefully  four  eggs,  one  on  each 
corner  of  the  dish,  and  replace  in  the  oven  until  the  eggs  are 
set,  and  serve. 

Tomato  Rice. 

Wash  two  ounces  of  rice  thoroughly  and  cook  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk  until  quite  soft,  then  flavor  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Take  one  pound  of  tomato  puree,  add  the  rice,  and  beat  to- 
gether until  smooth.  Stir  in  one  ounce  of  butter.  Serve  very 
hot,  with  or  without  grated  cheese. 

Tomato  Puree. 

Take  six  small  tomatoes.  Cut  them  into  slices  and  place 
in  an  enameled  saucepan,  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  tiny  pinch 
of  cayenne.  Pour  over  one  pint  of  stock.  Boil  until  quite 
soft,  and  then  pass  through  a  sieve;  add  one  ounce  of  anchovy 
essence,  tlv'cken  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  half  an  ounce 
of  flour  previously  mixed  together  in  another  pan  v/ith  some 
of  the  tomato  mixture.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sauce 
thickens,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Jellied  Tomatoes. 

Whip  half  a  pint  of  cream  until  stiff,  season  it  with  celery, 
salt  and  pepper.  Add  three  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  and 
whisk  in  by  degrees  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cool  but  liquid  aspic 
jelly  which  has  been  flavored  with  tarragon  vinegar.  Continue 
to  whisk  until  the  mixture  begins  to  stiffen.  Previously  peel 
and  halve  some  small  round  tomatoes,  and  remove  the  seeds 
from  the  halves  when  cut  open,  and  drain  for  a  little.  Place 
each  piece  of  tomato,  when  filled,  on  a  cheese  biscuit,  and  orna- 
ment it  round  the  edge  with  a  piping  of  cheese  cream.  Garnish 
the  dish  with  cress,  and  put  a  tiny  bunch  into  the  middle  of  the 
cream  with  which  the  tomatoes  are  filled. 


150  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Tomato  Pie. 

Slice  a  good-sized  onion  thinly,  blanch  it,  and  fry  in  fat 
till  lightly  browned.  Take  one  pound  of  ripe  tomatoes,  skin 
and  cut  in  slices.  Place  a  layer  of  onions  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pie  dish  with  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  then 
a  layer  of  tomatoes,  with  white  breadcrumbs  scattered  over 
and  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  almost 
full.  Have  ready  some  well-mashed  potatoes,  and  spread 
thickly  over,  so  as  to  form  a  crust;  score  them  with  a  fork 
and  bake  until  brown. 

Turnips  a  la  Poulette. 

Peel  about  one  pound  of  young  turnips,  wash  them  well, 
trim  into  olive  or  pear  shapes;  put  them  on  fire  in  cold  salted 
water,  and  bring  them  sharply  to  the  boil;  then  drain,  rinse  in 
cold  water,  and  dry  them  in  a  clean  napkin.  Have  ready 
some  veloute  sauce  (i.e.,  melted  butter,  made  with  one  ounce 
of  butter,  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  flour,  and  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  pint  of  vegetable  stock  instead  of  water),  drop 
the  turnips  into  this,  and  cook  them  till  ready,  very  gently 
for  about  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes,  according  to  size. 
When  ready  lift  them  out,  and  keep  hot.  Add  a  spoonful  of 
castor  sugar  to  the  liquor,  boil  up  sharply,  and  just  before 
serving  stir  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little  piece  of  butter 
cut  up  small;  do  not  let  the  sauce  re-boil  after  adding  these; 
season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  pour  the  sauce  on  to  the 
turnips,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Glazed  Turnips. 

Peel  about  one  pound  of  young  turnips,  wash  them  well, 
cut  into  quarters,  and  put  them  on  in  salted  water;  bring  this 
sharply  to  the  boil,  then  place  them  in  a  well-buttered  small 
frying  or  saucepan,  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  castor  sugar, 
and  directly  the  turnips  begin  to  color  pour  a  little  stock  in, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  more  sugar  if 
liked;  let  them  stew  slowly  till  quite  tender,  and  serve  them 
with  the  sauce  poured  over  them. 

Vegetable  Curry. 

Do  not  attempt  to  make  a  curry  in  a  hurry.  Two  hours 
is  the  least  in  which  you  can  make  a  vegetable  curry  worthy 
of  the  name,  and  it  is  far  wiser  to  allow  three  or  four  hours. 

Do  not  ask  your  cook  to  make  a  curry  on  a  day  when  she 
is  busy  with  other  matters,  for  it  will  take  an  hour  or  more 
of  undivided  attention,  throughout  the  time  of  cooking. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  151 

There  is,  however,  no  reason  that  curry  should  not  be  made 
the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  for  it  improves  by  keeping  and  by 
being  re-heated. 


SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

VEGETABLES. 

If  there  is  one  article  of  our  diet  which  more  than  any 
other  benefits  by  cooking  in  paper  bags  it  is  the  vegetables. 

Hitherto  the  vegetables  of  the  ordinary  cook  have  been  a 
byword  for  all  that  is  tasteless  and  unappetizing,  and  thus  they 
have  been  robbed  of  the  popularity  to  which  their  food-value 
entitles  them.  Vegetarian  and  meat-eater  alike  know  and  re- 
gret that  by  ordinary  methods  of  cooking  much  that  is  best 
in  vegetables,  both  for  the  palate  and  the  health,  are  boiled 
out  into  the  water  and  thrown  away. 

Medical  men  tell  us  how  valuable  are  the  salts  and  other 
constituents  of  vegetables  thus  wasted.  Little  medicine  would 
be  needed  if  we  included  in  our  diet  these  juices,  which  form 
the  choice  flavor  of  the  vegetables.  Up  to  the  present  we 
have  thrown  nature's  physic  to  the  dogs  —  or,  at  any  rate, 
down  the  kitchen  sink. 

But  with  the  vegetables  cooked  in  bags  nothing  is  lost.  All 
the  food-value  and  all  the  flavor  are  retained.  The  cooking 
is  easier,  without  smell,  and  the  result  will  be  to  place  vegeta- 
bles in  that  honored  place  which  they  should  occupy  on  every 
well-served  table.  This  is  a  matter  which  the  ordinary  house- 
holder and  the  "  Food  Reformer "  alike  have  at  heart. 

Asparagus. 

Trim  and  clean  the  asparagus  in  the  usual  way.  Tie  up, 
and  put  in  the  paper  bag.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  tumbler  of 
water,  a  little  salt,  and  place  on  the  grid.  Allow  thirty-five 
to  forty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Lima  Beans. 

Take  a  quart  of  lima  beans,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  four 
ounces  of  diced  ham,  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  a  good  teaspoon- 
ful  of  flour,  and  a  few  sweet  herbs  to  taste.  Put  in  a  bag 
with  half-a-pint  of  water  and  cook  for  sixty  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Vegetable  Marrow. 
Peel  and  halve  lengthways  two  or  three  vegetable  marrows, 


152  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

remove  the  seeds,  blanch  for  three  minutes  and  drain  well. 
Chop  up  some  cold  meat  or  poultry  left  from  a  previous  meal, 
season  to  taste,  add  a  small  chopped  shallot  or  onion,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  a  little  Worcester  sauce,  two  small  halved 
tomatoes,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  mushrooms  peeled  and 
chopped.  Blend  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  stock  or  gravy, 
mix  well,  stuff  the  marrow  with  the  mixture,  place  in  a  well- 
buttered  paper-bag,  and  bake  for  thirty-five  to  fifty  minutes 
in  300°  Fahr. 

Mushrooms. 

Peel  the  mushrooms  and  wash  them  well.  Then  cook  in 
the  same  way  as  tomatoes,  and  allow  the  same  time. 

Peas,  Plainly  Boiled. 

Put  a  pint  of  freshly-shelled  peas,  a  sprig  of  mint,  and  half 
a  pint  of  water  into  a  paper-bag,  seal  up,  and  cook  for  thirty-five 
to  forty-five  minutes  in  300°  Fahr. 

Peas. 

Put  a  pint  of  freshly-shelled  green  peas  in  a  bowl,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
a  little  salt,  a  chopped  lettuce,  a  small  bouquet  garni  and  half 
a  pint  of  water.  Mix  together,  place  in  a  bag  and  cook  for 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

New   Potatoes. 

Peel,  halve  and  put  sufficient  in  paper-bag  for  three  persons 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Add  one  leaf  of  mint, 
and  a  little  salt.  Seal  up  bag.  Place  gently  on  the  grid. 
Allow  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 
All  potatoes  should  be  cut  in  two. 

Baked  Potatoes. 

Thoroughly  wash  twelve  good-sized  potatoes.  Make  a  few 
small  slits  in  them  but  do  not  peel.  Place  in  a  paper-bag  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  water.  Cook  for  thirty-five  to  fifty  min- 
utes, according  to  size,  in  350°  Fahr. 

Pommes  Chateau. 

Peel  and  blanch  two  dozen  small  potatoes  and  drain  well. 
Put  them  in  a  bag  and  add  two  ounces  of  butter.  Seal  up 
and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes  (350° 
Fahr.).  Place  on  a  very  hot  dish,  season  to  taste  and  serve. 

Pommes   Paysanne. 
Cut  half  a  dozen  good-sized  peeled  potatoes  into  large  dice; 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  153 

blanch  for  a  minute  or  so.  Place  in  a  paper-bag  and  add  a 
chopped  onion,  four  ounces  of  ham  finely  diced,  and  two  ounces 
of  butter.  Seal  up  and  bake  for  thirty  minutes  in  300°  Fahr. 

Pommes  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Cut  up  six  cold  boiled  potatoes,  place  in  a  well-buttered  bag, 
add  half  a  glass  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  an  ounce  of  butter, 
a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  grated  nutmeg.  Cook  for  fifteen 
minutes  in  300°  Fahr. 

Spinach. 

Pick  over  and  thoroughly  wash  two  pounds  of  spinach ;  leave 
the  vegetable  as  wet  as  you  can,  and  put  in  a  bag.  Add  a 
little  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Seal  bag,  and  cook  for  thirty- 
five  minutes  in  300°  Fahr.  Then  stand  the  grid  bearing  the 
bag  on  a  large  plate,  and  prick  the  bottom  of  the  bag  in  such 
a  way  as  to  allow  all  the  water  to  run  out.  Dish  up,  add  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  and  serve. 

Tomatoes. 

Place  six  tomatoes  in  boiling  water  for  twenty-five  seconds, 
then  take  them  out,  and  you  will  find  they  will  peel  easily. 
Butter  your  paper-bag.  Place  salt,  pepper,  a  suspicion  of 
sugar,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  the  bag,  and  put  on  grid. 
Allow  twelve  minutes  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 


154  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


ENTREES. 

Amourettes  (Beef). 

Cut  up  two  pounds  of  beef  marrow  and  mix  it  with  a  cup- 
ful of  tomato  sauce  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  To  this 
add  half  a  pound  of  sliced  cooked  truffles  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  minced  ham.  Line  a  mold  with  breadcrumbs  mixed 
with  butter  and  herbs  and  fill  with  meat.  Let  it  steam  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  serve  with  stewed  mushrooms. 

Beef  Scallop. 

Place  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  into  a  stewpan 
with  one  ounce  of  beef  dripping  and  fry  it  until  it  is  brown; 
then  stir  in  the  flour,  and  when  this  is  smoothly  mixed  add 
half  a  pint  of  vegetable  stock.  Let  the  sauce  boil  up,  season 
it  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  one  dessertspoonful  of  to- 
mato catsup,  and  after  it  has  simmered  for  ten  minutes  strain 
it  into  a  bowl.  Butter  a  pie  dish  and  put  a  layer  of  cold  beef 
in  it  which  has  been  cut  into  rather  thin  slices;  pour  a  little 
of  the  sauce  over  it,  sprinkle  with  some  chopped  parsley  and 
a  little  chopped  onion  which  was  strained  from  the  sauce,  and 
then  add  more  meat  and  sauce  alternately  until  the  dish  is 
full.  Cover  the  top  thickly  with  fine  dry  breadcrumbs,  pour 
a  little  warm  dripping  over  the  bread,  and  cook  the  meat  in 
a  moderately  hot  oven  for  at  least  an  hour.  If  the  bread  is 
getting  brown  too  quickly  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  greased 
paper. 

Beef  Cake. 

Cut  one  pound  of  beefsteak  into  small  slices,  which  should 
be  as  nearly  square  as  possible;  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  roll  them  up  tightly.  Cut  a  carrot 
and  onion,  and  a  piece  of  turnip  into  slices,  and  put  them 
into  a  jar  with  a  small  slice  of  bacon,  and  place  the  rolls  of 
meat  on  them.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  browning  and  the  sauce 
to  a  pint  r>f  hot  water,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper; 
fill  up  the  jar  with  the  liquor,  cover  it  closely  and  put  it  into 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  155 

a  moderately  hot  oven  for  two  hours.  Then  take  out  the  meat 
and  vegetables,  cut  some  of  the  carrot  into  fancy  shapes,  and 
place  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  some  slices  of 
hard-boiled  egg,  sprinkle  with  some  chopped  parsley  and  put 
in  the  meat.  Let  the  liquor  in  which  the  beef  was  cooked 
boil  up,  free  it  from  grease,  and  add  some  leaf  gelatine  (which 
has  been  softened  in  cold  water)  in  the  proportion  of  half  an 
ounce  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  the  liquor.  Stir  it  for  a 
few  minutes  and  then  strain  over  the  meat.  When  the  con- 
tents of  the  dish  are  quite  firm,  turn  out  the  beef  cake  and 
garnish  it  with  parsley. 

Beef  Gateau. 

Put  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  dripping  into  a  frying  pan 
with  a  small  slice  of  fat  bacon,  one  small  onion  (sliced)  and 
one  pound  of  tender  beefsteak  which  has  been  cut  up,  and  fry 
until  the  meat  is  nicely  browned;  then  put  it  aside  to  cool 
while  the  sauce  is  made.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the 
pan  in  which  the  meat  was  fried,  stirring  it  well  into  the  fat; 
then  pour  in  gradually,  stirring  all  the  time,  half  a  pint  of  hot 
water;  when  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick,  add  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  tomato  or  Yorkshire  relish,  or  some  store  sauce  to  it, 
and  a  little  browning;  season  it  with  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and 
let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  During  this  time  pass  the  beef 
through  a  meat  chopper,  then  strain  the  sauce  into  the 
minced  meat;  mix  it  well  and  add  a  well-beaten  egg.  Take 
a  plain  tin  mold,  rub  it  over  on  the  inside  with  clarified 
dripping,  and  when  the  mince  is  cold  fill  the  mold  with  it; 
cover  with  greased  paper,  put  a  plate  on  the  top,  and  place  the 
mold  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour  (if  the  oven  is  only 
moderately  hot,  allow  rather  longer).  Turn  the  meat  out  of 
the  mold,  and  pour  some  brown  sauce  or  clear  gravy  round 
the  dish. 

Grenadin  of  Beef. 

Cut  some  tender  rump  steak  into  medium-sized  rounds  which 
should  be  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  fry  them  in  small 
quantity  of  hot  beef  dripping  over  a  very  quick  fire  for  from 
six  to  ten  minutes,  turning  themonly  once  while  they  are 
cooking.  Cut  some  small  thin^dH^f  bacon,  and  roll  it  up; 
run  a  skewer  through  the^Jittflflron^md  cook  in  a  hot  oven. 
Serve  the  grenadines  round  a  pile  t>f  haricot  beans  with  a  roll 
of  bacon  between  each.  Prepare  the  haricot  beans  as  fol- 
lows:—  Put  a  teacupful  of  large  haricot  beans,  which  have 


156  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

been  soaked  for  at  least  twelve  hours,  into  a  saucepan  contain- 
ing plenty  of  cold  water;  when  the  water  boils  add  an  onion, 
a  few  pieces  of  celery  and  two  cloves  tied  together  in  a  piece 
of  muslin;  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  and  let  the 
beans  simmer  gently  for  about  three  and  a  half  hours,  adding 
more  water  from  time  to  time  if  necessary;  it  is  advisable 
not  to  add  any  salt  until  the  beans  are  cooked  as  they  are 
less  liable  to  burst.  When  the  beans  are  done,  drain  them 
on  a  cloth  and  after  arranging  them  on  a  dish,  cover  them 
with  parsley  sauce. 

Beef  Mold. 

Put  four  ounces  of  breadcrumbs  into  a  saucepan,  and  pour 
in  sufficient  hot  beef  gravy  to  moisten  them;  let  the  mixture 
boil  up,  and  when  a  thick  paste  is  formed  remove  the  pan 
from  the  stove,  and  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  then  half  a 
pound  of  finely-minced  beef,  and  the  liver,  which  has  been 
cooked  with  a  few  slices  of  onions  in  clarified  bacon  fat  and 
then  rubbed  through  a  wire  sieve.  Season  the  ingredients 
with  salt,  black  pepper,  and  a  little  cayenne,  then  stir 
in  one  tablespoonful  of  tomato  sauce  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs,  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth.  Butter  a  plain  tin  mold,  fill 
it  with  the  prepared  meat,  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  over 
the  top,  and  steam  it  steadily  for  an  hour;  then  turn  it  on  to 
a  hot  dish,  cover  the  top  with  grated  horse-radish,  and  sur- 
round with  savory  brown  sauce. 

Beef  Olives. 

Beat  one  pound  of  lean  steak  with  a  rolling-pin  for  a  few 
minutes  and  then  cut  it  into  slices  as  nearly  the  same  size 
as  possible,  but  they  must  not  be  thick;  flatten  them  out  with 
a  wet  knife,  and  spread  each  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat. 
Then  roll  them  up  and  secure  them  with  crochet  cotton;  flour 
the  little  rolls  and  fry  them  in  clarified  dripping  until  they  are 
nicely  browned,  and  then  stew  them  very  gently  for  from  one 
and  a  half  to  two  hours  in  some  flavored  brown  sauce,  which 
has  been  thickened  with  equal  proportions  of  flour  and  corn- 
flour. For  the  forcemeat  mix  three  ounces  of  breadcrumbs 
with  the  chopped  parsley,  onion,  herbs,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
bacon.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
moisten  the  dry  ingredients  with  sufficient  beaten  egg  to  make 
it  into  a  fairly  soft  paste.  The  olives  can  be  made  with 
cooked  meat  if  more  convenient. 

Beef  Suzette. 

Cut  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  fillet  of  beef   (or  tender 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  157 

rump  steak)  into  moderately  thick  slices,  and  then  into  neat 
square  pieces  (not  too  large),  and  place  the  meat  in  a  pie- 
dish  containing  salad-oil,  vinegar,  a  dust  of  black  pepper,  a 
few  pieces  of  bruised  parsley  and  some  lemon  thyme.  After 
it  has  been  in  the  pickle  for  about  two  hours,  take  out  the 
meat,  wipe  it  and  cook  it  quickly  over  a  fierce  fire  in  a  frying- 
pan,  which  contains  a  small  quantity  of  hot  dripping.  Scatter 
a  little  chopped  parsley  (or  horse-radish)  over  the  fillets  and 
place  them  so  that  they  just  overlap  in  some  fried  potatoes 
or  French  beans,  which  have  been  prepared  according  to  the 
direction  given  below,  and  neatly  arranged  in  a  line  down  the 
middle  of  a  hot  dish.  Remove  the  strings  from  the  beans, 
cut  them  into  thin  strips  and  wash  them  well  in  cold  water, 
then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  containing  plenty  of  boiling 
water,  to  which  add  a  small  piece  of  soda  and  some  salt  (al- 
low a  large  teaspoonful  to  a  quart  of  water),  and  let  them  boil 
quickly  for  about  half  an  hour.  'When  done  drain  the  beans 
on  a  colander  and  then  turn  them  on  to  a  cloth  for  a  few 
minutes.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan;  when  it  is 
melted,  add  the  beans  and  season  them  with  a  pinch  of  salt, 
pepper,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  and  let  them  simmer  for  five  min- 
utes; add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  after  letting 
them  cook  very  gently  for  five  minutes  longer,  serve  them  as 
directed. 

Beef  Timbole. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  clarified  beef 
dripping;  when  it  is  hot  add  one  slice  of  fat  bacon,  one  onion 
(sliced),  and  about  one  pound  of  beefsteak  cut  into  two  pieces, 
and  fry  the  meat  quickly  until  it  is  evenly  browned,  then  re- 
move it  from  the  pan  and  let  it  get  cool.  Put  the  flour  into 
the  pan  in  which  the  steak  was  fried  and  mix  it  smoothly 
with  the  fat,  then  pour  in,  gradually  stirring  all  the  time,  the 
hot  water,  and  when  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick  add  a  little 
browning  and  tomato  catsup;  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Pass  the  steak  through  a 
meat  chopper,  then  strain  the  sauce  into  the  minced  meat 
and  add  a  well-beaten  egg.  Rub  some  plain  dariole  molds 
with  dripping,  fill  them  with  the  mince  and  place  them  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven;  put  a  piece  of  greased  paper  over  the 
darioles  and  cook  the  mince  for  about  half  an  hour.  When 
firm,  turn  it  out  of  the  molds  and  pour  some  gherkin  sauce 
round  the  dish.  Add  the  pickled  gherkins,  finely  minced,  to 


158  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  sauce,  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes  and  it  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

Bistecchi  (Beef). 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  fillet  of  beef  or  rump-steak,  and 
after  removing  the  skin  and  most  of  the  fat  cut  it  into  four 
equal  parts  and  sprinkle  well  with  pepper  and  salt  on  a  dish. 
Pour  over  them  a  tablespoonful  of  white  wine  vinegar  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil.  Let  them  remain  in  this 
for  about  an  hour,  frequently  turning  them  over,  and  then 
grill  for  ten  minutes  or  fry  in  oil.  If  the  fillets  are  very  thick 
they  may  take  a  little  longer  to  cook. 

Casserole  of  Rice  with  Collops  (Beef). 

Cut  one  pound  of  lean  steak  into  small  square  pieces,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  containing  an  ounce  of  melted  clari- 
fied dripping,  one  onion  cut  in  half,  one  carrot  (sliced)  and  a 
few  pieces  of  celery.  Fry  the  meat  until  it  is  evenly  browned, 
turning  it  frequently  to  prevent  it  from  burning.  Then  take 
out  the  beef,  stir  two  ounces  of  flour  into  the  pan,  mixing  it 
smoothly  with  the  fat,  and  pour  in  by  degrees  a  pint  of  hot 
water;  stir  quickly  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  sauce  has 
boiled  and  thickened.  Season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  very 
little  grated  nutmeg,  and  add  sufficient  browning  to  make  it  a 
rich  brown;  put  in  the  fried  meat  and  let  it  stew  very  gently 
for  two  hours.  When  done,  place  the  collops  in  a  casserole 
of  rice,  prepared  according  to  the  directions  given  below,  strain 
the  sauce  over  them,  and  garnish  with  little  three-cornered 
sippets  of  fried  bread.  For  the  casserole,  boil  the  rice  until  it 
is  quite  tender  in  a  pint  of  water,  with  a  thick  slice  of  onion 
stuck  with  cloves,  and  sufficient  salt  and  pepper  to  season  it. 
When  the  rice  is  done,  all  the  liquid  should  be  absorbed,  and 
if  it  is  allowed  to  cook  too  quickly,  rather  more  water  must  be 
added.  Take  the  onion  out  of  the  rice  and  when  it  has  cooled 
press  it  into  a  plain  border  mold  which  has  been  well  but- 
tered, or  a  pie  dish  will  answer  the  purpose.  As  soon  as  the 
rice  is  quite  cold  turn  it  out  of  the  mold;  if  a  dish  has  been 
used  carefully  remove  the  middle  of  the  rice  to  within  about 
half  an  inch  of  the  sides  and  bottom.  Then  brush  the  cas- 
serole over  with  clarified  butter,  scatter  some  browned  bread- 
crumbs over  it  and  put  it  into  a  quick  oven  until  it  becomes 
a  golden  color,  and  fill  it  at  once  with  the  collops. 

Cold  Pie  (Beef). 
Pass  a  large  slice  of  bacon  twice  through  a  meat  chopper 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  159 

and  mix  it  with  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
half  a  teaspoonful  finely  minced  onion,  salt,  some  freshly- 
ground  black  pepper,  and  a  dust  of  curry  powder.  Cut  some 
beefsteak  into  rather  thin  slices  which  should  be  as  nearly  as 
possible  two  and  a  half  inches  square;  spread  a  small  quantity 
of  the  bacon  mixture  on  the  pieces  of  meat,  and  roll  them  up. 
Rub  a  stewpan  over  with  fresh  beef  dripping,  and  pack  the 
beef  rolls  tightly  into  it;  place  a  piece  of  greased  paper  over 
the  meat,  then  cover  the  pan  and  fry  it  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  and  let  it  cook  very  gently 
on  a  moderately  hot  stove  for  an  hour.  During  the  time  the 
meat  is  cooking  prepare  some  vegetable  stock  thus: — Cut  a 
small  onion,  two  young  carrots  and  a  piece  of  turnip  into 
slices  and  put  them  into  a  small  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  water, 
add  a  blade  of  mace,  twelve  whole  peppers,  a  clove  and  salt  to 
taste.  When  the  stock  has  simmered  for  an  hour  add  suffi- 
cient coloring  to  make  it  a  clear  brown,  a  large  teaspoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  and  five  leaves  of  French  gelatine,  and  strain 
in  a  bowl.  Place  the  rolls  of  beef  in  the  pie-dish  and  let  them 
get  cool;  cut  one  and  a  half  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices  and 
put  them  among  the  beef,  stand  an  egg-cup  in  the  middle  of 
the  dish  and  pour  in  as  much  of  the  stock  (which  should  be 
cool)  as  the  dish  will  contain  without  letting  it  touch  the  paste. 
Cover  the  meat  with  a  paste  of  medium  thickness,  put  an  orna- 
mental rose  in  the  middle,  and  bake  the  pie  in  a  quick  oven. 
When  it  has  cooled  a  little,  carefully  remove  the  rose  from 
the  top  of  the  pie  and  pour  in  a  little  more  of  the  stock;  then 
replace  the  rose  and  leave  the  pie  untouched  until  the  follow- 
ing day. 

Dresden  Patties  (Beef). 

Mince  some  cooked  beef  finely,  taking  care  to  remove  all 
the  fat  and  gristle;  and  a  small  quantity  of  cooked  bacon,  also 
minced,  and  a  dust  of  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  some  clarified 
dripping  evenly  over  a  small  stewpan,  put  in  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  minced  onion  and  let  it  fry  for  a  few  minutes  until  it 
shows  signs  of  becoming  brown,  then  add  the  minced  meat  and 
stir  it  constantly  for  eight  minutes.  Pour  in  sufficient  nicely- 
flavored,  thick,  brown  sauce  to  moisten  the  mince,  draw  the 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  and  let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread  from  a  "  tin  "  loaf 
of  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  stamp  them  out  into  medium- 
size  rounds  with  a  cutter,  mark  the  bread  in  the  middle  but 


160  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

without  cutting  it  through;  dip  the  rounds  of  bread  quickly 
into  milk,  then  brush  them  over  with  some  beaten  egg,  and 
after  covering  them  thickly  with  fine  dry  breadcrumbs,  fry 
them  at  once  in  plenty  of  boiling  fat.  Take  care  the  bread 
does  not  become  more  than  a  golden  brown,  and  after  draining 
it  on  paper,  remove  the  portion  from  each  round  which  was 
marked  with  the  small  cutter,  and  fill  up  the  little  cases  thus 
formed  with  the  prepared  mince.  Have  ready  a  little  pow- 
dered parsley,  scatter  this  over  the  surface  of  the  mince  and 
serve  the  patties  at  once. 

Fillet  of  Beef  with  Shrimps. 

Cut  one  pound  of  fillet  of  beef  into  neat  square  pieces  of 
medium  thickness,  brush  them  over  with  oiled  butter,  sprinkle 
them  with  black  pepper  and  a  little  cayenne,  and  grill  them 
over  a  clear  fire.  Boil  some  rice  in  some  weak  stock  until 
it  is  quite  tender  and  the  liquid  has  been  absorbed;  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  piece  of  butter  to  it,  and  mold  it  on 
a  hot  dish  into  a  smooth  border,  and  dish  up  the  fillets  on  it. 
Make  half  a  pint  of  thick  brown  sauce,  flavor  it  with  a  little 
tomato  catsup,  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice  and  a  few  drops 
of  carmine  to  it,  and  pour  half  of  it  into  a  small  saucepan ;  then 
stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  pickled  shrimps.  As  soon  as 
they  are  thoroughly  hot,  place  about  a  teaspoonful  of  the 
sauce  and  shrimps  in  the  middle  of  each  fillet  and  scatter  a 
little  chopped  parsley  over  the  top.  Fill  up  the  middle  of  the 
rice  border  with  fried  potatoes,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  round  the  dish. 

Hashed  Beef. 

Chop  two  pounds  of  underdone  beef  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  suet  and  two  onions,  flavoring  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
parsley.  Mix  well  with  half  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  and 
moisten  with  a  cupful  of  stock.  Place  the  whole  in  a  dish  or 
mold  and  cover  with  breadcrumbs  moistened  with  a  spoonful 
of  lemon  juice.  Bake  until  well  browned,  and  serve  with 
mashed  potatoes. 

Hashed  Beef.     (Another  Method.) 

Chop  together  two  pounds  of  lean  beef  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  suet,  and  add  two  minced  onions  and  a  sprinkling  of 
pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley.  Thoroughly  mix  with  these 
half  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  and  a  cupful  of  clear  stock. 
Pour  the  whole  into  a  mold  or  bowl  and  sprinkle  thickly  with 
crumbs,  pouring  over  them  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Let 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  161 

the  whole  bake  until  thoroughly  done,  and  then  turn  it  out  on 
a  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes. 

Minced  Cutlet  (Beef). 

Pass  half  a  pound  of  cold  roast  beef  through  a  meat  chopper, 
then  add  the  breadcrumbs  which  have  been  moistened  with 
some  highly  seasoned  boiling  stock,  and  then  beaten  to  a 
paste  —  some  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
Moisten  the  mince  with  the  thick  brown  sauce  and  half  a 
well-beaten  egg  and  spread  it  on  a  dish  to  get  cold.  Take  a 
small  portion  of  the  mince  at  a  time  and  form  it  into  the 
shape  of  cutlets  on  a  floured  board.  When  all  are  ready  dip 
the  cutlets  into  beaten  egg  and  then  cover  them  with  dry 
breadcrumbs  which  have  been  well  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  mixed  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  finely- 
minced  onion.  Let  the  cutlets  stand  for  ten  minutes  then  egg 
and  crumb  them  again  and  after  being  put  aside  for  another 
ten  minutes  fry  them  in  a  bath  of  boiling  fat. 

Marinated  Beef. 

Sprinkle  well  a  fillet  of  beef  with  salt  and  let  it  stand  for 
four  hours.  Now  make  a  pickle  of  vinegar,  red  wine,  and 
water  in  equal  parts,  some  small  onions  stuck  with  cloves, 
slices  of  lemon,  a  few  bay  leaves,  two  or  three  pieces  of  ginger, 
and  branches  of  thyme,  marjoram,  and  any  other  herbs  that 
are  liked.  Some  people  add  a  little  gin,  but  this  is  not  neces- 
sary. Boil  this  pickle  and  pour  it  over  the  fillet  of  beef,  which 
must  be  left  in  it  for  three  days.  Each  day  the  pickle  is 
again  boiled  up  and  poured  over  the  fillet. 

On  the  fourth  day  remove  the  fillet  and  lard  it  with  an- 
chovies cut  into  thin  strips,  and  then  place  it  in  a  stewpan  or 
earthenware  cooking  pot  upon  a  layer  of  slices  of  fat  bacon. 
Cover  with  more  slices  of  fat  bacon,  moisten  with  a  little  of 
the  pickle,  and  then  place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  the 
whole.  While  cooking  add  from  time  to  time  a  very  little  of 
the  pickle.  When  the  fillet  is  done  make  a  sauce  by  mixing 
two  spoonfuls  of  flour  with  a  little  boiled  milk,  adding  some 
butter,  minced  anchovies,  and  a  little  of  the  pickle.  Cook  this 
over  the  fire,  strain,  add  some  capers,  and  pour  it ,  over  the 
fillet. 

Pickled  Steak  (Beef). 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  rump-steak,  place  in  a  deep  dish 
and  cover  with  two  sliced  onions,  twenty-four  white  pepper- 
corns, six  cloves,  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 


162  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

thyme  and  marjoram  mixed,  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  and 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Let  the 
steak  steep  in  this  marinade  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours, 
turning  frequently. 

When  ready  to  cook  drain  the  steak,  wipe  it  well  and  grill 
quickly  over  a  clear  fire  until  nearly  done.  Strain  the  mari- 
nade into  a  stewpan,  boil  it  up,  add  salt  to  taste,  put  in  the 
steak,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  about  twenty  minutes. 

Rolled  Beef. 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  tender  steak  (cut  in  one  piece), 
flatten  it  out  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  trim  off  the  fat;  flour  the 
meat,  and  spread  it  with  a  forcemeat  made  as  follows: — Mix 
six  ounces  of  fine  breadcrumbs  with  two  ounces  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  a  teaspoonful  of  dried  mixed  herbs,  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  minced  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion  and  the 
same  quantity  of  fat  bacon  finely-minced,  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt  and  a  dust  of 
cayenne;  moisten  the  dry  ingredients  with  sufficient  beaten  egg 
(or  milk  will  do)  to  make  a  fairly  stiff  paste.  Roll  up  the  meat, 
tie  it  with  narrow  tape  at  each  end  and  in  the  middle,  and  put 
it  on  to  a  baking  tin;  pour  a  little  melted  dripping  over  it, 
and  place  some  unmelted  dripping  round  the  meat,  and  bake 
it  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  it  is  nicely  browned;  the 
meat  must  be  basted  frequently,  and  if  it  is  inclined  to  brown 
too  quickly,  place  a  piece  of  greased  paper  over  it.  When 
done  remove  the  tapes  and  pour  some  brown  sauce  which  has 
been  thickened  with  flour,  over  the  meat,  and  also  round  the 
dish. 

Rolled  Beef  in  Jelly. 

Cut  some  fairly  thin  slices  from  a  piece  of  cold  roast  beef, 
spread  them  with  a  layer  of  potted  ham  (or  cold  boiled  bacon), 
and  roll  them  up  and  tie  with  thin  white  twine.  Rub  a  stew- 
pan  over  with  some  fresh  beef  drippings,  and  put  in  a  small 
onion  (sliced),  a  few  thin  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip,  and 
the  little  rolls  of  beef,  cover  with  greased  paper  and  fry  for 
six  minutes.  Then  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  stock  (not 
enough  to  cover  the  meat)  and  let  the  meat  cook  very  gently 
for  an  hour.  On  taking  it  out  of  the  stewpan,  place  it  on 
soft  paper,  and  when  it  is  cold  remove  the  twine.  Put  a  small 
onion  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  two  cloves,  a 
few  thin  strips  of  lemon-peel  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
and  let  the  water  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Add  a  large 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  163 

teaspoonful  of  strong  colored  gravy,  one  tablespoonful  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar  and  stir  in  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
French  gelatine,  and  when  the  latter  has  melted,  strain  through 
muslin  into  a  bowl.  Pour  a  small  quantity  of  the  jelly  into 
a  plain  round  mold,  and  when  it  is  firm  arrange  some  little 
pieces  of  pickled  cauliflower,  slices  of  pickled  gherkins  and 
strips  of  French  beans  (which  have  been  dipped  into  liquid 
jelly),  on  it,  and  as  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  set  fill  up  the 
mold  with  the  rolled  beef,  and  when  the  remainder  of  the 
jelly  shows  signs  of  setting,  pour  it  over  the  meat.  The  fol- 
lowing day  turn  the  jelly  on  to  a  dish  covered  with  a  paper 
d'oyley,  and  garnish  it  with  pieces  of  fresh  parsley. 

Sauerbraten   (Beef). 

Place  a  piece  of  lean  beef  in  vinegar  and  let  it  soak  for 
two  days.  After  draining,  lard  freely  with  fat  bacon,  dust 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  mixed  spices,  and  brown  thoroughly 
in  a  frying-pan  with  melted  butter.  Next  place  the  meat  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  sliced  carrots,  an 
onion,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  any  herbs  that  are  preferred. 
Cover  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  three  hours.  After  taking 
out  the  meat  skim  the  gravy,  thicken  with  flour,  add  a  little 
vinegar,  and  pour  over  the  meat. 

This  dish  is  usually  eaten  with  sauerkraut. 

Spiced  Pressed  Beef. 

Take  the  bones  from  four  to  five  pounds  of  salt  brisket  of 
beef,  wash  the  meat  and  spread  it  out  on  a  board  and  scatter 
some  spices  and  herbs  (which  should  be  mixed  together)  over 
the  inside.  Roll  up  the  meat,  tie  it  in  the  middle  and  at  each 
end  with  narrow  white  tape  and  wrap  it  in  a  pudding  cloth, 
which  must  also  be  tied  securely.  Put  the  meat  into  a  large 
saucepan  of  warm  water;  let  it  boil  up,  remove  the  scum  and 
add  two  onions,  one  carrot  and  a  small  turnip.  Cover  the 
saucepan  and  let  the  meat  simmer  very  gently  for  four  hours. 
At  the  end  of  the  time  take  out  the  beef  and  after  tighten- 
ing the  cloth  place  it  between  two  flat  dishes  with  weights 
on  the  top  and  leave  it  until  the  following  day.  Remove  the 
cloth,  wipe  and  trim  the  meat  and  proceed  to  glaze  it,  and  as 
soon  as  one  coat  has  set  brush  the  meat  over  again  with  more 
glaze,  and  so  on  until  it  is  thick  enough  to  look  well;  great 
care  must  be  taken  to  get  a  perfectly  even  surface.  To  make 
the  glaze,  dissolve  eight  sheets  of  French  gelatine  in  about 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  then  add  sufficient  Paris- 


164  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ian  essence  and  carmine  (only  a  few  drops  of  the  latter)   to 
make  it  a  rich  reddish  brown. 

Steak  and  Kidney  Pudding. 

Cut  some  beefsteak  into  moderately  thin  slices,  and  cut 
half  as  many  slices  of  bacon  the  same  size  as  the  beef,  only 
very  much  thinner,  and  slice  as  many  kidneys  as  are  required. 
Spread  out  the  slices  of  beef  with  a  knife,  sprinkle  them  with 
a  little  salt  and  some  black  pepper,  and  a  very  little  chopped 
onion  and  parsley;  place  a  slice  of  bacon  on  some  of  the 
pieces  of  meat,  and  a  slice  of  kidney  on  the  others,  and  roll 
them  up  tightly  and  dust  them  with  flour.  Line  a  buttered 
bowl  with  suet  paste,  pack  the  little  rolls  of  meat  into  the 
bowl  and  pour  over  them  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water;  cover 
the  pudding  securely  with  paste,  pressing  the  edges,  which 
should  be  moistened,  well  together.  Tie  the  bowl  in  a  floured 
cloth,  and  boil  the  pudding  steadily  for  four  hours.  For  the 
crust,  shred  or  grate  six  ounces  of  Hugon's  suet  and  mix  it 
well  with  a  pound  of  flour;  when  it  is  entirely  free  from 
lumps,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  and  add  sufficient  cold  water  to  make  a  fairly 
soft  paste.  Roll  it  out  to  about  a  third  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness and  use. 

Steak  and  Kidney  Pie. 

Cut  up  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  steak  into  small,  almost 
square  pieces,  which  should  not  be  too  thick,  season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley  and  onion,  and 
roll  them  up;  then  dust  lightly  with  the  flour.  Cut  half  a 
pound  of  ox  kidney  into  thin  slices,  fry  these  lightly  and 
quickly  in  a  small  quantity  of  boiling  dripping,  and  put  them 
aside  to  cool.  Chop  the  bacon  coarsely  and  then  proceed  to 
fill  the  pie-dish;  butter  the  latter  and  place  a  layer  of  meat 
rolls  in  it;  then  cover  them  with  some  slices  of  fried  kidney, 
and  sprinkle  over  some  of  the  chopped  bacon.  Then  put  more 
meat  rolls  and  kidney  and  bacon  and  pour  in  sufficient  stock, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  to  nearly  fill  the  dish;  cover 
it,  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours.  When 
the  meat  has  cooled,  add  a  little  more  stock,  if  necessary,  and 
put  on  a  dripping-paste;  brush  it  over  with  some  beaten  yolk 
of  egg,  and  bake  in  a  well-heated  oven  until  the  crust  is  evenly 
browned. 

Steak  and  Tomato  Pudding. 

Mix  some  fine  salt  with  a  dust  of  cayenne,  some  black  pepper 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  165 

and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Cut  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
lean  steak  into  moderately  small  thin  slices;  dust  them  with 
some  prepared  salt,  and  roll  them  up.  Shred  six  ounces  of 
refined  beef  suet  with  a  sharp  knife  and  put  it  into  a  bowl 
with  one  pound  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder;  rub  the  suet  into  sufficient  cold  water  to 
mix  it  to  a  smooth  and  fairly  soft  paste.  Turn  the  paste  on 
to  a  floured  board,  and  roll  it  out  to  about  one-third  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  then  line  a  pudding  dish  (which  has  previously 
been  buttered)  with  it.  Remove  the  skin  from  some  firm 
tomatoes,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  take  out  the  seeds. 
Place  a  layer  of  meat  rolls  in  the  bowl,  cover  them  with  some 
pieces  of  tomato,  then  scatter  a  little  bacon  and  onion  over 
them  and  continue  in  the  same  way  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Pour  in  rather  less  than  half  a  pint  of  stock  (or  water)  and 
cover  in  the  pudding  with  a  layer  of  the  paste  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick;  trim  it  neatly  and  moisten  the  edge  and  press 
it  well  against  the  under  paste  so  that  it  may  adhere.  Dip 
a  pudding  cloth  into  boiling  water,  wring  it  and  flour  it,  then 
tie  it  securely  over  the  dish.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  contain- 
ing boiling  water;  put  in  the  pudding,  and  let  it  cook  steadily 
for  four  hours,  taking  care  that  the  water  does  not  boil  over 
the  top  of  the  dish. 

Stewed  Roast  Beef. 

Roast  a  piece  of  lean  beef  before  an  open  fire  until  it  is 
half  done,  basting  from  time  to  time  with  butter.  Now  take 
the  juice  of  twelve  moderate-sized  onions,  add  sufficient  bread- 
crumb to  absorb  it,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  butter.  Mix 
thoroughly  into  a  smooth  paste  and  season  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Now  place  the  mixture  in  a  stewpan  and  stir  in  suffi- 
cient strong  stock  to  make  a  thick  sauce.  When  this  has 
simmered  five  minutes  place  in  it  the  piece  of  beef  cut  into 
slices.  Cover  and  simmer  until  thoroughly  done. 

The  sauce  should  be  strained,  thickened  with  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  poured  over  the  slices  of  beef  arranged  in 
a  pile  on  the  dish. 

Stewed  Roast  Beef.    (Another  Method.) 

Cut  some  cold  roast  beef  into  small  square  dice  and  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Stir 
constantly  over  the  fire  till  the  meai'.is  lightly  browned,  then 
add  half  a  cupful  of  stock,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  good  tomato 
catsup,  a  sliced  onion,  a  minced  green  chili,  and  a  pinch  of 


166  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

pepper.     Mix  well,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  very  gently  for 
twenty  minutes. 

The  stew  should  be  served  with  a  border  of  boiled  rice. 

Stewed  Kidneys. 

Place  as  many  kidneys  as  are  required  for  a  dish  in  boiling 
water  for  a  few  minutes,  then  remove  the  skin,  cut  them  in 
two  and  take  out  the  core.  Wipe  them,  flour  them  lightly  and 
fry  them  quickly  in  a  small  quantity  of  hot  dripping  for 
six  minutes;  then  put  aside  while  the  sauce  is  made.  Add 
sufficient  clarified  dripping  to  that  in  which  the  kidneys  were 
cooked  to  make  up  one  and  a  half  ounces  and  fry  one  ounce 
of  chopped  onion  in  it  until  it  is  a  light  brown;  then  stir 
in  one  ounce  of  flour  and  one  ounce  of  cornflour,  and  pour 
in  gradually,  stirring  all  the  time,  one  pint  of  stock  (or 
water)  ;  when  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick,  season  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  and  add  one  dessertspoonful 
of  tomato  sauce,  one  teaspoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  suffi- 
cient browning  to  make  it  a  rich  brown.  Strain  the  sauce 
into  a  gourmet  boila  (or  a  stewpan  will  do),  put  the  kidneys 
into  it  and  place  the  vessel  containing  them  in  a  stewpan  of 
boiling  water,  cover  the  pan  and  let  them  cook  (preferably 
in  the  oven)  for  two  hours,  taking  care  to  replenish  the  water 
when  necessary.  Dish  up  the  kidneys  inside  a  wall  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 

Spanish  Onions  with  Kidneys. 

Put  some  Spanish  onions  which  have  been  peeled  and 
washed,  into  a  saucepan  containing  plenty  of  cold  salted  water; 
when  the  water  boils  up,  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the 
stove,  and  let  them  cook  gently  until  they  are  parboiled. 
Drain  the  onions  and  carefully  remove  the  middles;  place  half 
a  sheep's  kidney  in  each,  pressing  it  well  into  the  onion, 
put  them  on  a  baking-tin  which  has  been  rubbed  with  some 
good  beef  dripping;  cover  the  onions  with  greased  paper,  and 
let  them  cook  slowly  in  a  moderately-heated  oven  for  four 
hours,  basting  them  frequently.  Serve  with  thick  sauce,  which 
should  be  very  savory,  poured  over  the  onions. 

Zrazi  (Beef). 

Cut  some  very  thin  slices  of  lean  beef,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  beat  thoroughly  in  order  to  make  them  tender.  Now  make 
a  forcemeat  of  minced  rind  of  lemon,  and  bound  with  three 
eggs.  If  too  stiff  a  little  warm  milk  can  be  added.  Spread 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  167 

this  mixture  on  the  slices  of  beef,  then  roll  them  up  and  tie 
with  thread.  Next  place  them  in  an  'earthenware  cooking 
vessel  or  stewpan  with  just  enough  stock  to  nearly  cover 
them.  Add  a  glass  of  red  wine  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  vine- 
gar, one  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  little 
piece  of  ginger,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  two  or  three  bay 
leaves.  Cover  the  vessel  and  cook  thoroughly.  When  done 
strain  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  rolls  of  beef  after  first 
removing  the  threads. 

Casserole  of  Fowl. 

Remove  the  skin  from  a  fowl  and  cut  it  into  joints  and 
neat  pieces,  dividing  the  legs  and  breakfng  the  back  into  two 
pieces.  Put  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  clarified  dripping  into 
a  stewpan  and  when  it  is  hot  add  one  onion  (sliced),  one 
slice  of  bacon  and  the  pieces  of  fowl,  and  let  the  latter  cook 
over  a  gentle  heat  until  they  are  white;  turn  them  frequently, 
and  remove  from  the  pan  directly  they  are  done,  taking  care 
they  do  not  become  brown.  Then  stir  the  flour  into  the  fat  in 
the  pan  and  when  it  is  well  mixed  add  the  stock  (or  water) 
by  degrees,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick;  sea- 
son it  well  and  add  the  spices  and  a  few  thin  strips  of  lemon 
peel,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Color 
the  sauce  a  light  brown,  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  and 
strain  it  into  an  earthen  casserole;  put  in  the  fried  fowl,  and 
after  covering  it  with  a  piece  of  greased  paper,  put  on  the  lid 
and  place  the  casserole  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  two 
hours;  a  little  chopped  parsley  should  be  scattered  over  the  sur- 
face when  the  paper  is  removed,  just  before  the  casserole  is 
sent  to  the  table.  If  the  liver  of  the  bird  is  not  objected  to, 
it  should  be  fried  with  the  fowl  and  then  cut  into  small  pieces 
and  put  into  the  casserole. 

Baked   Ham. 

Soak  a  ham  weighing  six  pounds  for  twelve  hours,  or  if 
thoroughly  matured  for  twice  as  long,  changing  the  water 
twice;  then  scrub  it  in  warm  water,  dry  it  well,  cover  it  en- 
tirely with  a  thick  paste  made  with  flour  and  water  and 
wrap  the  ham  up  in  a  piece  of  white  paper  which  has  been 
well  greased,  securing  it  with  white  tape  or  string.  Put  it 
into  a  moderately  hot  oven  and  let  it  cook  for  five  hours. 
When  done  remove  the  paper  and  paste  and  then  pull  off  the 
skin;  trim  the  ham,  brush  it  over,  glaze  and  scatter  it  thickly 
with  brown  crumbs. 


168  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Jugged  Hare. 

Skin  a  hare,  wash  it  thoroughly  and  dry  it,  then  cut  it  up 
into  small  pieces  of  convenient  size.  Put  two  ounces  of  drip- 
ping into  a  stewpan  and  when  it  is  melted  add  the  hare,  two 
ounces  of  fat  bacon  (cut  into  small  dice-shaped  pieces),  and 
one  medium-sized  onion  (sliced),  fry  the  meat  (turning  it 
frequently  until  it  is  evenly  browned)  ;  then  drain  it  on  paper, 
and  put  it  into  a  jar  or  gourmet  boila.  Stir  the  flour  and  corn- 
flour into  the  pan  in  which  the  hare  was  fried,  mixing  the 
flour  smoothly  with  the  fat,  and  adding  a  little  more  if  neces- 
sary; cook  the  flour  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  by  degrees 
one  pint  of  stock  (made  from  the  neck  and  trimmings  of  the 
hare)  ;  let  it  boil  up  and  thicken  and  season  with  salt,  spice, 
and  pepper,  add  the  celery  seed,  thyme,  and  parsley,  the  lemon 
juice  and  sufficient  browning  to  make  the  sauce  a  rich  brown; 
let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes  and  strain  it  over  the  meat. 
Put  the  cover  on  the  jar  and  make  it  air-tight  by  sealing  the 
edges  with  a  soft  dough  made  with  flour  and  water.  Place 
the  jar  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  in  a  pan  containing  boiling 
water,  and  let  the  contents  cook  for  three  hours.  Arrange 
the  meat  neatly  on  a  hot  dish  and  strain  the  sauce  over  it, 
and  garnish  with  small  fried  balls  of  herb  forcemeat,  and 
serve  with  red-currant  jelly.  A  glass  of  port,  sherry,  or  claret, 
added  to  the  sauce  just  before  straining,  will  greatly  improve 
the  flavor. 

Braised  Leg  of  Lamb. 

Melt  two  ounces  of  dripping  in  a  large  stewpan,  and  put 
in  a  small  leg  of  lamb  and  fry  it  for  ten  minutes,  letting  it 
brown  lightly  on  both  sides.  Then  pour  in  sufficient  water 
to  partly  cover  the  meat,  and  add  two  onions,  a  turnip,  and 
two  carrots  (cut  into  slices),  a  sprig  of  mint,  a  small  bunch 
of  parsley  and  a  little  muslin  bag  containing  twelve  pepper- 
corns, a  blade  of  mace,  and  two  cloves.  Place  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper  over  the  meat,  then  cover  the  pan  and  let  it 
simmer  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  three  hours.  The  meat 
should  be  basted  from  time  to  time  and  turned  after  it  has 
been  cooking  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When  it  is  done,  re- 
move it  from  the  pan  and  keep  it  hot  while  the  sauce  is  made. 
Pour  off  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible  from  the  liquor  in 
which  the  lamb  was  cooked,  then  thicken  it  with  cornflour, 
which  has  been  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water; 
season  it  with  salt  and  a  little  pepper  if  necessary,  and  color 
the  sauce  a  rich  brown  with  Parisian  essence.  Strain  it 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  169 

through  a  pointed  strainer  over  the  meat,  and  garnish  the  dish 
either  with  peas  which  have  been  cooked  separately  or  with 
the  vegetables  with  which  it  was  braised. 

Stewed  Neck  of  Lamb. 

Take  two  to  three  pounds  of  the  neck  of  lamb,  which  may 
either  be  cut  up  or  jointed  and  left  whole.  After  washing 
it  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  some  cold  vegetable  stock  (water 
in  which  a  large  onion,  a  carrot,  and  a  turnip  have  been  boiled 
with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  few  sweet  herbs).  When  it 
boils  up  skim  the  stock,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  as  long 
as  the  scum  rises  remove  it;  then  draw  the  pan  to  the  side 
of  the  stove  where  the  meat  can  only  simmer,  and  leave  for 
half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  the  time  add  the  peas,  or  if  these 
are  not  procurable  some  very  young  carrots  and  turnips  may 
be  used  instead;  cover  the  pan  and  let  the  meat  simmer  for 
another  half  hour.  Mix  the  flour  until  it  is  quite  smooth 
with  a  little  milk,  pour  this  into  the  stewpan  and  stir  the  sauce 
quickly  until  it  thickens,  then  season  it  with  black  pepper  and 
salt  and  add  the  mint  and  the  parsley  and  let  the  contents  of 
the  pan  continue  to  cook  gently  for  half  an  hour  longer. 
Place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish  and  surround  it  with  peas  (or 
other  vegetables)  and  the  sauce.  Mutton  may  be  substitued 
for  lamb. 

Lamb  Chops  a  la  Maintenon. 

Cover  'each  chop  thickly  with  a  mixture  of  minced  ham, 
marjoram,  and  breadcrumbs,  blended  with  butter,  onion  juice, 
and  parsley.  Wrap  each  chop  in  a  well-buttered  Soyer  paper- 
bag  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Stewed  Lamb's  Heart  (Mutton). 

Wash  and  slice  three  lamb's  hearts,  being  careful  to  cut 
across  the  grain  of  the  flesh.  Brown  these  well  in  a  stew- 
pan with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Then  add  sufficient 
hot  water  to  almost  cover  the  meat.  Season  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  a  couple  of  bay  leaves,  and  two  or  three 
slices  of  lemon.  Cover  and  simmer  gently  for  one  hour,  fre- 
quently stirring,  and  if  necessary,  adding  a  little  more  water. 
When  quite  done  remove  the  meat  to  a  hot  dish,  thicken  the 
gravy  with  a  little  flour,  and  pour  it  over. 

This  dish  should  be  eaten  as  hot  as  possible,  as  the  meat 
is  less  palatable  when  cold. 

Bredee  (Mutton). 

Cut  two  pounds  of  lean  neck  of  mutton  into  small  pieces. 


170  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Chop  up  two  medium-sized  onions  and  fry  them  in  an  ounce 
and  a  half  of  butter  or  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Now  add 
the  meat  and  fry  quickly  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  contin- 
ually. Add  two  pounds  of  sliced  tomatoes,  a  small  piece  of 
red  chili  finely  minced,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  water  to  not  quite  cover  the 
mixture.  Cover  the  pot  closely  and  cook  gently  for  about 
two  hours.  Just  before  serving  add  a  little  sugar  to  the  stew. 

Broiled  Mutton  Chop. 

Cut  a  chop  from  a  tenderloin  of  mutton,  trim  off  a  little 
of  the  fat  and  scatter  a  little  salt  and  black  pepper  over  the 
meat,  then  dip  it  into  some  warm  butter  (just  sufficient  to  coat 
the  meat)  and  put  it  aside  for  about  an  hour  before  it  is  to  be 
cooked.  Then  put  it  on  a  hot  gridiron  which  has  been  rubbed 
over  with  dripping  and  broil  it  over  a  clear  brisk  fire  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  allowing  more  or  less  time  according  to  the 
thickness  of  the  meat,  and  whether  it  is  to  be  well  done  or 
not.  For  the  first  few  minutes  the  gridiron  should  be  placed 
very  near  the  fire  to  close  the  pores  of  the  meat,  then  it  should 
be  slightly  raised  and  the  chop  allowed  to  cook  until  it  is 
done.  It  should  only  be  turned  once  and  this  after  the  ex- 
piration of  half  the  time  that  is  to  be  allowed  for  cooking; 
a  broiled  chop  should  be  served  directly  it  is  taken  from  the 
gridiron,  and  it  should  be  garnished  with  fried  potatoes  and 
slices  of  fried  tomato. 

Deviled  Chops  (Mutton). 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick  brown  sauce  with  one  des- 
sertspoonful of  chutney,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
one  saltspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Place  some  neatly  trimmed 
shoulder  of  mutton  chops  in  a  dish,  and  cover  them  with  the 
mixture  and  leave  them  for  ten  minutes;  then  take  them  up, 
flour  them  well,  so  that  the  mixture  may  adhere,  and  dip 
them  into  a  beaten  egg  and  cover  them  thickly  with  fine  dry 
breadcrumbs  (or  omit  the  eggs  and  crumbs  if  preferred)  and 
fry  them  at  once  in  plenty  of  boiling  fat.  Put  a  little  frill 
on  each  chop,  and  arrange  them  down  the  middle  of  a  hot 
dish  and  surround  with  artichokes  prepared  thus:  Peel  and 
trim  some  artichokes,  and  cut  them  into  rather  thin  slices,  and 
fry  them  in  boiling  fat  until  they  are  brown  and  crisp. 

Dolmas  (Mutton). 

Mince  finely  any  odds  and  ends  of  cold  mutton,  and  mix 
it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  boiled  rice,  adding  the  yolk  of  an 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  171 

egg  and  sufficient  milk  to  form  a  thick  paste.  Season  to  taste 
and  fill  a  number  of  lettuce  leaves  with  the  mixture,  rolling 
each  carefully.  After  simmering  in  a  little  stock  or  water  for 
half  an  hour,  drain  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  and  pour  over 
them  a  sauce  made  of  yolk  of  egg  beaten  in  milk,  with  a  little 
parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

Frickadels  (Mutton). 

Soak  two  thick  slices  of  stale  bread  in  milk,  squeeze  out  any 
superfluous  milk,  and  beat  the  bread  well  with  a  fork.  Rub 
two  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve  and  mix  the  soaked  bread 
and  tomato  pulp  with  half  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  raw 
mutton  and  a  very  small  minced  onion.  Add  pepper,  salt,  and 
nutmeg  to  taste,  and  stir  in  one  lightly  beaten  egg.  Shape  this 
mixture  into  small  rissoles,  coat  them  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  well  browned. 

Have  ready  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  curry  sauce,  into 
this  put  the  rissoles,  and  stew  very  gently  for  about  half  an 
hour. 

Frickadel  of  Mutton. 

Mince  two  pounds  of  lean  mutton  with  two  ounces  of  lean 
bacon  which  have  been  soaked  in  boiling  milk,  one  onion, 
one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  sufficient  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg  to  season  the  meat.  Moisten  it  with  the 
eggs  and  roll  it  up  neatly  into  the  shape  of  a  large  sausage. 
Tie  the  meat  in  a  piece  of  buttered  muslin,  and  stew  it  gently 
in  the  brown  sauce  for  two  hours,  but  allow  an  extra  half 
hour  if  fresh  meat  is  used.  When  done  remove  the  muslin 
from  the  meat  and  strain  the  sauce  over  it. 

Grilled  Fillets  (Mutton). 

Cut  some  thick  slices  from  the  leg  of  mutton,  trim  them  into 
squares  and  after  brushing  them  over  with  warm  dripping 
and  seasoning  them  with  a  little  black  pepper,  grill  them  over 
a  clear  fire.  Serve  the  fillets  with  as  little  delay  as  possible 
on  a  bank  of  cabbage  prepared  as  spinach  and  surround  with 
sauce.  The  trimmings  for  the  fillets  can  be  utilized  for  a  break- 
fast dish,  thus :  —  Fry  the  scraps  with  the  fillets,  then  pass 
them  through  a  mincing  machine  with  a  slice  of  cooked  bacon; 
flour  the  mince  lightly  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  in  which  a 
small  piece  of  butter  has  been  melted  and  stir  until  it  is 
thoroughly  hot.  Then  add  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  Worcester 
sauce,  and  sufficient  stock  is  added,  and  then  spread  it  on 


172  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

squares  of  hot  buttered  or  fried  toast  and  scatter  some  hot 
brown  crumbs  over  the  top. 

Hot   Pot   (Mutton). 

Remove  the  fat  from  eight  mutton  chops  and  chop  the  bones 
so  that  they  are  quite  short.  Put  a  layer  of  parboiled  potatoes 
which  have  been  cut  into  slices,  at  the  bottom  of  an  earthen- 
ware dish,  scatter  a  little  minced  onion  and  some  chopped  pars- 
ley over  the  potatoes,  then  put  in  four  of  the  chops,  season 
them  well  with  salt,  black  pepper,  and  a  little  curry  powder, 
and  cover  them  with  some  thin  slices  of  mutton  kidney.  On 
the  latter  place  another  layer  of  potatoes,  and  proceed  as  before, 
finishing  with  potatoes  on  the  top;  pour  in  sufficient  stock  to 
about  three-parts  fill  the  dish,  and  set  it  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  in  a  tin  containing  hot  water;  cover  the  dish  closely 
and  let  the  hot-pot  cook  for  fully  two  hours.  On  removing  it 
from  the  oven  add  a  little  more  stock,  which  should  be  boil- 
ing; a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  catsup,  mixed  with  the  stock,  will 
greatly  improve  the  flavor.  The  hot-pot  should  be  served  in 
the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Irish  Stew. 

Cut  up  about  two  pounds  of  neck  of  mutton  (either  the 
middle  or  scrag  end)  and  trim  off  the  superfluous  fat.  Coat 
a  stewpan  with  some  clarified  dripping  and  put  in  the  onions, 
cut  into  rather  thick  slices,  and  the  meat,  and  fry  without 
browning  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  remove  the  meat  and 
stir  in  the  flour,  and  when  mixed  with  the  fat  in  the  pan  add 
about  a  pint  of  warm  water ;  replace  the  meat,  cover  the  stew- 
pan  and  put  it  into  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Cut  up  some  pota- 
toes (about  two  pounds)  into  quarters,  and  two  carrots,  two 
turnips  and  a  stick  of  celery  into  rather  large  dice-shaped 
pieces,  and  after  the  stew  has  cooked  for  an  hour  put  in  the 
vegetables  and  let  it  simmer  for  another  hour,  or  rather  longer, 
according  to  the  temperature  of  the  oven.  Dish  up  the  meat 
in  a  circle  with  the  carrot  and  turnip  in  the  middle,  and  put 
the  potatoes  round  the  dish;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
minced  parsley  to  the  sauce,  let  it  boil  up,  and  pour  it  over  the 
meat  and  vegetables. 

Mutton  Collops. 

Cut  some  rounds  about  the  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece 
from  the  slices  of  mutton,  fry  them  in  hot  drippings  with  a  few 
slices  of  onion  until  they  are  evenly  browned  on  both  sides, 
and  then  stew  the  meat  in  thick  brown  sauce  for  two  hours, 


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STANDARD  COOKERY.  173 

and  serve  the  collops  surrounded  by  a  border  of  mashed  tur- 
nips. 

Mutton  Chops. 

Divide  two  pounds  of  best  end  of  the  neck  of  mutton  into 
chops,  trim  off  all  the  fat,  chop  the  bones  so  that  they  are  all 
the  same  length  and  scrape  them  until  they  are  quite  bare 
up  to  where  the  meat  begins.  Flour  the  chops  and  dip  them 
into  beaten  egg,  then  cover  thickly  with  fine  dry  breadcrumbs, 
which  have  been  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and 
press  them  lightly  between  the  hands  and  let  them  stand  for 
about  twenty  minutes  before  they  are  fried.  Dish  up  the 
chops  on  a  low  wall  of  mashed  potatoes,  fill  the  center  with 
macaroni  and  celery  prepared  according  to  the  directions  given 
below  and  pour  some  brown  gravy  round  the  dish.  Boil  a 
small  quantity  of  large  pipe  macaroni  and  a  stick  or  two  of 
celery  until  they  are  tender,  then  cut  them  up  into  small  pieces 
and  mix  them  with  some  thick  white  sauce  which  has  been 
flavored  with  a  little  grated  cheese.  A  small  cauliflower,  di- 
vided into  little  branches  can  be  substituted  for  the  macaroni. 

Mutton  Chops  with  Mashed  Potato. 

Trim  all  the  fat  from  some  neck  of  mutton  chops,  and 
scrape  the  bone.  Melt  an  ounce  of  beef  dripping  in  a  stewpan, 
then  put  in  one  large  or  two  small  onions  cut  into  rather  thick 
slices,  the  carrot  and  half  a  medium-sized  turnip  (also  sliced) 
and  a  few  pieces  of  parsley.  Arrange  the  chops  on  the  veg- 
etables, put  a  piece  of  greased  paper  over  them,  and  fry  them 
gently  for  ten  minutes;  then  pour  in  (under  the  paper)  about 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  stock  (or  water)  and  let  the  chops 
simmer  for  forty  minutes.  Take  them  from  the  stewpan,  and 
press  them  between  two  flat  dishes,  or  baking  sheets,  with  a 
weight  on  top  until  they  are  cold,  then  dip  them  into  beaten 
egg,  and  cover  them  thickly  with  fine,  dry,  breadcrumbs,  and 
after  leaving  them  for  about  half  an  hour  fry  the  chops  in 
plenty  of  boiling  fat  until  they  are  a  delicate  golden  brown. 
Mash  some  potatoes,  mix  it  with  a  little  milk,  season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  beat  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it  is 
light  and  creamy;  then  arrange  it  in  the  form  of  a  low  bank, 
about  two  inches  in  width  and  three  inches  in  height  straight 
down  the  middle  of  a  hot  dish,  smoothing  it  with  a  knife  so 
that  it  is  perfectly  compact  and  even,  make  eight  little  slits 
(or  divisions)  in  the  surface  of  the  potato  (or  as  many  divi- 
sions as  there  are  chops)  ;  take  up  one  chop  at  a  time  by 


174  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  bone  and  press  it  lightly  into  one  of  the  divisions  of  the 
potatoes  so  that  it  stands  firmly  but  in  a  slightly  slanting  posi- 
tion; when  all  the  chops  are  arranged  in  the  same  way,  put 
a  little  frill  on  the  end  of  the  bones  and  pour  some  thick  brown 
sauce  round  the  dish.  The  above  is  an  excellent  method  of 
ensuring  chops  being  tender. 

Triple  Chops  (Mutton). 

Take  three  mutton  chops,  place  the  best  one  in  the  middle 
and  tie  in  a  bundle.  Then  place  them  upon  the  grill  over  a 
good  fire  and  turn  the  bundle  frequently  so  that  all  the  gravy 
may  soak  into  the  middle  chop.  When  the  two  outside  ones 
are  over-cooked  throw  them  aside  and  serve  the  middle  one. 

The  outside  chops  can  be  used  in  the  stock  pot  as  well  as 
in  other  ways. 

Mutton  Steak  Pudding. 

Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and  season  them  well  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Line  a  small  pudding- 
dish  with  a  light  suet  crust,  and  fill  it  as  follows : —  Put  in 
a  layer  of  raw  potatoes  cut  into  rather  thick  slices,  then  a 
layer  of  meat  and  over  the  latter  sprinkle  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  finely-minced  onion,  a  few  pieces  of  celery  and  salt, 
black  pepper  and  a  dust  of  cayenne.  When  the  dish  is  full 
pour  in  some  weak  stock  before  covering  in  the  pudding;  tie 
the  dish  in  a  cloth  which  has  been  dipped  into  hot  water,  and 
then  dredged  with  a  little  flour,  and  let  the  pudding  boil  stead- 
ily for  three  hours. 

Scalloped  Mutton. 

Put  half  an  ounce  of  dripping  into  a  stewpan  with  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  chopped  onion,  and  fry  until  the  onion  is  a  light 
brown,  then  stir  in  half  an  ounce  of  cornflour,  mix  well  and 
moisten  with  half  a  pint,  or  rather  more,  of  vegetable  stock 
made  with  Edwards'  Desiccated  Soup;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper;  let  the  sauce  boil  up  and  then  simmer  for  ten  minutes 
and  pass  it  through  a  gravy  strainer.  Cut  some  slices  from  a 
cold  leg  of  mutton  and  trim  off  the  skin  and  fat.  Butter  a 
pie-dish  and  place  a  layer  of  the  meat  in  it,  cover  it  with  sauce 
and  sprinkle  with  a  little  chopped  parsley,  then  put  more  meat 
and  sauce  alternately  until  the  dish  is  full.  Cover  the  top 
thickly  with  dry  breadcrumbs,  which  have  been  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  place  a  few  little  pieces  of  butter  or  dripping  on 
the  crumbs,  and  put  the  dish  into  a  moderately  hot  oven  until 
the  bread  is  nicely  browned. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  175 

Stuffed  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Get  the  butcher  to  remove  the  blade  bone  from  a  small  shoul- 
der of  mutton  (the  bone  will  make  excellent  soup)  ;  wipe  the 
meat  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  borax  and  water,  and  then 
fill  the  place  from  which  the  bone  was  removed  with  a  force- 
meat made  according  to  the  following  directions:  Shape  the 
meat  and  tie  it  up  securely  with  narrow  tape,  and  roast  (or 
bake)  it  in  the  usual  way.  Send  to  table  with  brown  gravy 
poured  round  the  dish.  For  the  forcemeat,  to  every  half-pint 
of  fresh  white  breadcrumbs,  which  have  been  passed  through 
a  sieve,  add  two  ounces  of  very  finely-chopped  suet  (weighing 
it  after  it  has  been  chopped),  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
a  teaspoonful  of  finely-powdered  mixed  herbs,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  grated  lemon-peel,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  lean  bacon,  or  ham,  which  has  been  passed 
through  a  meat  chopper.  Season  with  salt,  black  pepper, 
cayenne  and  a  little  powdered  mace,  and  moisten  the  force- 
meat with  one  well-beaten  egg  and  a  little  milk;  mix  it  thor- 
oughly and  use  at  once,  so  that  it  may  not  become  dry. 

Pigeon  Pie. 

Cut  two  pigeons  into  pieces  of  convenient  size  and  fry  them 
in  two  ounces  of  clarified  dripping.  Take  them  out  of  the  pan 
and  put  them  aside  to  cool.  Fry  a  small  onion  (sliced)  until 
lightly  browned  in  the  dripping  used  to  cook  the  birds.  Then 
stir  in  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley  (tied 
together),  one  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  season  with 
pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Let  the  sauce  boil  up,  and  then  sim- 
mer for  fifteen  minutes,  color  it  with  browning,  and  strain  it 
into  a  bowl.  Cut  one  pound  of  rump-steak  into  small  pieces 
which  should  be  almost  square,  dust  them  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  roll  them  up.  Place  the  rolls  of  meat  in  a  pie-dish,  together 
with  the  pieces  of  pigeon.  Sprinkle  over  them  some  chopped 
parsley  and  a  little  lean  minced  bacon,  fill  up  the  dish  with 
the  prepared  sauce,  cover  it  closely  and  put  it  into  a  moderately 
hot  oven  for  one  hour.  Let  the  meat  get  cold,  add  some  pieces 
of  hard-boiled  egg,  and  cover  it  with  pastry,  leaving  a  small 
aperture  in  the  middle  of  the  crust,  to  be  filled  in  with  an  orna- 
mental rose  of  pastry  (the  latter  should  be  baked  separately) 
after  the  pie  is  finished.  Brush  the  crust  over  with  beaten  egg, 
and  bake  the  pie  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Salmi  of  Pigeons. 
Put  half  an  ounce  of  dripping  and  half  an  ounce  of  bacon 


176  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

fat  into  a  stewpan  with  one  onion  (cut  into  slices),  two  toma- 
toes (also  sliced),  and  a  little  parsley;  fry  the  vegetables  until 
the  onion  is  lightly  browned,  then  stir  in  one  ounce  of  flour 
and  half  an  ounce  of  cornflour,  and  when  smoothly  mixed  with 
the  dripping,  pour  in  gradually  the  stock;  let  the  sauce  boil  up, 
then  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  where  it  can  only 
simmer  gently,  and  leave  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Season 
it  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vine- 
gar and  sufficient  Parisian  essence  to  make  it  a  rich  brown. 
Roast  the  pigeons  and  while  they  are  still  hot  cut  them  up  and 
remove  the  skin;  put  them  into  a  clean  stewpan  and  strain 
the  sauce  over  them.  Cover  the  pan  and  place  it  in  a  larger 
pan  of  hot  water  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  an  hour.  Ar- 
range the  salmi  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  it  with  kite- 
shaped  sippets. 

Stewed  Pigeons. 

Put  one  ounce  of  beef  dripping  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small 
onion  (cut  into  slices),  two  tomatoes  (also  sliced),  and  a  little 
parsley;  fry  the  vegetables  until  the  onion  is  lightly  browned, 
then  stir  in  one  ounce  of  flour  and  half  an  ounce  of  cornflour, 
and  when  smoothly  mixed  with  the  dripping  pour  in  gradually 
the  stock;  let  the  sauce  boil  up,  then  draw  the  pan  to  the  side 
of  the  stove  where  it  can  only  simmer  gently,  and  leave  it  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  sufficient  browning  to  make 
it  a  rich  brown.  Roast  three  or  four  pigeons,  and  while  they 
are  still  hot  cut  them  up  and  remove  the  skin,  put  them  into 
a  clean  stewpan  and  strain  the  sauce  over  them.  Cover  the 
pan  and  place  it  in  a  larger  pan  of  hot  water  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  for  an  hour.  Arrange  the  stew  neatly  on  a  hot  dish 
and  garnish  it  with  kite-shaped  sippets. 

Brawn  (Pork). 

Wash  half  a  pig's  head  thoroughly  and  remove  the  brains, 
pieces  of  bone  and  veins,  then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  enough 
cold  salted  water  to  cover  it.  Let  the  water  boil,  skim  it  well, 
and  then  keep  it  simmering  for  two  hours;  by  this  time  the 
bones  should  be  removed  without  difficulty.  Cut  the  meat  up 
quickly  with  a  sharp  knife  into  small  square  pieces;  season  it 
liberally  with  salt,  black  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
cloves,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  then  pack  it  tightly 
into  a  mold  (or  round  cake  tin)  of  suitable  size,  put  a  plate 
(or  a  saucer)  on  the  meat  and  on  the  top  a  heavy  weight  to 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  177 

press  the  meat  firmly,  and  leave  in  a  cool  place  until  the  fol- 
lowing day.  When  the  brawn  is  required,  dip  the  mold  (or 
tin)  into  warm  water  and  turn  the  contents  on  to  a  dish. 
Serve,  garnished  with  parsley. 

Kluskis  (Pork). 

Mince  one  pound  of  fresh  lean  pork  and  mix  it  with  half  its 
weight  of  breadcrumbs  soaked  in  wine.  Flavor  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  the  minced  rind  of  a  lemon.  Make  this  mixture 
into  little  flat  cakes,  cover  with  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  butter 
or  lard. 

Any  odds  and  ends  of  lean  meat  can  be  treated  in  this  way, 
but  pork  gives  the  best  result. 

Lomo  (Pork). 

Cut  thick  slices   of  pork,  not  too   fat,   and  let  them   soak 
for   twenty-four  hours    in    a   mixture  of   lemon   juice,   garlic, 
pimento,    and   just    a    suspicion    of   cayenne.    Wipe    carefully 
and  grill  the  slices  of  meat  over  a  clear  fire. 
Pork  Chops. 

Cut  as  many  chops  as  are  required  from  a  piece  of  the  neck 
of  pork,  trim  them  neatly,  brush  them  over  with  warm  drip- 
ping, and  cook  them  in  a  hot  frying-pan,  which  has  been 
rubbed  over  with  dripping,  for  twelve  minutes.  Remove  them 
from  the  pan,  and  press  them  between  two  dishes  for  a  few 
minutes  until  they  are  cool.  Then  flour  the  chops,  dip  them 
into  beaten  egg  and  cover  them  thickly  with  fine  dry  bread- 
crumbs, which  have  been  seasoned  with  salt,  black  pepper,  and 
a  dust  of  curry  powder,  and  mixed  with  some  finely-chopped 
parsley  and  onion.  Leave  the  chops  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes for  the  crumbs  to  harden,  and  then  fry  them  in  the  usual 
way  until  they  are  nicely  browned.  Dish  them  up  with  fried 
apples  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and  surround  with  thick 
brown  sauce.  The  apples  should  be  prepared  thus:  Peel  some 
apples,  which  are  not  very  sour,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  par- 
boil them,  then  drain  them  thoroughly  on  a  cloth  and  fry  them 
quickly  over  a  clear  fire  in  a  small  quantity  of  boiling  dripping 
until  they  are  brown. 

Poerkoell  (Pork  and  Veal). 

Cut  a  pound  of  lean  pork  and  two  pounds  of  shin  of  veal 
into  small  squares  and  fry  in  butter  seasoned  with  onion, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  mixed  herbs.  Place  the  whole  in  an 
earthenware  cooking-pot  or  enameled  saucepan,  cover  with 
three  cupfuls  of  clear  stock,  and  stew  for  an  hour. 


178  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

This  should  be  served  with  a  border  of  any  vegetables  in 
season,  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  dishes  in  Hungary. 

Curried  Rabbit. 

Cut  one  rabbit  which  has  been  prepared  for  cooking  into  neat 
pieces,  dip  them  into  melted  dripping,  and  cover  them  thickly 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  which  has  been  mixed 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Put  three  ounces  of  clarified 
dripping  into  a  stewpan  with  one  large  and  two  small  onions 
finely  minced,  and  fry  for  three  minutes;  then  add  the  pieces 
of  meat  and  let  them  fry  quickly  for  fifteen  minutes,  turning 
them  now  and  then.  Peel  an  apple  and  chop  it  into  very  small 
pieces ;  add  it  to  the  curry,  also  one  teaspoonful  of  sweet  chutney 
and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt;  then  pour  in  the  stock  (or  water) 
which  has  been  flavored  with  vegetables;  stir  the  curry,  cover 
the  pan  and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours.  When 
ready,  take  the  stewpan  from  the  oven,  arrange  the  meat  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  stir  the  milk  into  the  sauce;  let  it  simmer  for  a 
minute  or  two,  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  and  strain  it 
over  the  meat.  Serve  with  boiled  rice  on  a  separate  dish. 

Fricassee  of  Rabbit. 

Cut  a  young  rabbit  into  joints  and  neat  pieces;  wash  the 
meat  well  and  dry  it.  Put  the  butter  (two  ounces,  or  clarified 
dripping)  into  a  stewpan  with  an  onion  (sliced),  two  or  three 
sticks  of  celery  (cut  into  small  pieces),  and  one  slice  of  fat 
bacon.  As  soon  as  the  butter  (or  dripping)  has  melted,  put  in 
the  pieces  of  rabbit,  and  let  them  fry  gently  for  twenty  minutes, 
turn  constantly  and  take  care  that  it  does  not  acquire  any  color. 
At  the  end  of  the  time  named,  put  the  rabbit  on  a  plate  and 
keep  it  hot  on  the  rack.  Stir  the  flour  into  the  pan  containing 
the  vegetables,  mixing  it  well  with  the  fat ;  then  add  by  degrees 
half  a  pint  of  hot  boiling  milk.  Continue  to  stir  the  sauce 
until  it  is  smooth  and  thick,  then  draw  the  pan  aside  where  it 
can  simmer.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  mace  and 
a  few  thin  strips  of  lemon-peel.  Place  the  pieces  of  rabbit  in 
it,  cover  the  pan  closely  and  let  it  cook  gently  for  not  less 
than  an  hour.  Dish  it  up  on  a  hot  dish;  let  the  sauce  boil  and 
after  removing  the  pan  from  the  stove  add  a  few  drops  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  and  pass  it  through  a  gravy  strainer  over  the 
meat.  Garnish  the  dish  with  little  three-cornered  sippets  of 
fried  bread  and  rolls  of  crisply-fried  bacon. 

Olla  Podrida  (Rabbit). 
Partly  boil  and  cut  up  a  rabbit  and  place  it  in  an  earthen- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  179 

ware  pot  with  two  cups  of  stock,  a  dozen  oysters,  a  little 
mace,  pepper,  salt,  and  herbs.  Cook  until  tender,  which  will 
take  about  an  hour.  Remove  the  meat,  and  after  straining  the 
gravy  add  a  minced  anchovy,  a  tablespoonful  of  port  or  sherry. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  rabbit  and  serve  with  mixed  cooked 
vegetables  arranged  round  the  dish. 

Grilled  Sweetbreads. 

Cook  two  large  sweetbreads  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  cupful 
of  clear  soup.  When  cold  dip  them  in  thick  cream,  roll  in 
breadcrumbs  and  wrap  each  in  a  very  thin  slice  of  ham.  Next 
tie  each  sweetbread  in  oiled  paper  and  broil  cautiously,  being 
careful  that  the  paper  does  not  catch  fire.  After  removing  the 
paper,  serve  the  sweetbreads  with  spinach. 

Hashed  Tongue. 

Slice  the  remains  of  a  boiled  ox  tongue  —  a  canned  one  will 
answer  the  purpose  —  and  steep  for  an  hour  in  a  mixture  of 
lemon  juice  and  oil.  Now  drain  and  place  in  a  buttered  fry- 
ing-pan with  a  few  sliced  button  mushrooms,  a  little  minced 
onion  and  parsley,  and  a  sprinkling  of  pepper  and  salt.  Add  a 
tablespoonful  of  sherry  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and 
cook  slowly  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  taking  care  that  the  meat 
does  not  burn. 

Just  before  serving  add  a  little  hot  stock  and  a  spoonful  of 
tomato  sauce. 

Meat  Macedoine. 

Line  a  fancy  mold  with  aspic  jelly,  and  fill  the  center  with 
a  mixture  of  cooked  and  sliced  tongue,  liver  sausage,  sweet- 
bread, mushrooms  and  truffles.  Add  more  liquid  jelly,  and 
when  cold  turn  out  on  a  dish. 

Almost  any  kinds  of  cold  meat  may  be  used  up  in  this  way, 
the  greater  the  variety  the  better.  The  pieces  should  be  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  have  a  pretty  appearance  when  turned  out  of 
the  mold. 

Baked  Veal. 

Cut  the  meat  from  a  shoulder  of  veal,  divide  into  small  cubes 
and  parboil.  Let  the  bones  and  trimmings  simmer  separately 
in  a  quart  of  water  for  two  hours  to  make  gravy.  The  meat 
is  now  placed  in  a  pie  dish,  sprinkled  with  a  little  salt,  half  a 
grated  nutmeg,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  just  a  suspicion 
of  cayenne  pepper.  A  tablespoonful  of  butter,  with  which  has 
been  incorporated  the  same  quantity  of  flour,  should  be  divided 


i8o  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

into  little  pieces  and  scattered  over  the  meat,  then  the  gravy 
from  the  bones  is  strained  and  poured  over  it,  and  the  whole 
baked  in  a  hot  oven  until  well  browned. 

China  Stew  (Veal  or  Mutton). 

Cut  one  pound  of  cooked  veal  (or  mutton)  into  small  dice- 
shaped  pieces,  and  remove  all  fat  and  gristle.  Fry  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  minced  onion  in  a  stewpan  containing  one  ounce  of 
melted  butter  or  clarified  dripping  (the  onion  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  brown)  then  add  the  meat;  sprinkle  over  it  the  curry 
powder,  and  stir  it  gently  for  six  minutes.  Pour  in  the  thick 
white  sauce,  made  with  equal  quantities  of  white  stock  and 
milk,  or  milk  only  can  be  used,  cover  the  pan,  place  it  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  and  let  the  meat  stew  gently  for  one  and 
a  half  hours.  Boil  the  peas  with  a  few  leaves  of  mint,  and 
when  they  are  just  tender,  drain  them  well,  add  them  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  very  finely-shred  lettuce  to  the  meat  and  let 
it  continue  to  cook  for  another  half  hour.  Arrange  some 
carefully  boiled  rice  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  stewed  meat  and 
peas  into  the  middle  and  scatter  some  chopped  parsley  over  the 
top. 

Coulibac  (Forcemeat). 

Make  a  light  paste,  roll  very  thin,  and  cut  it  square.  Spread 
this  thickly  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  minced  veal,  mushrooms, 
eggs,  rice,  herbs,  and  butter,  moistened  with  stock.  Roll  up  the 
whole,  sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs  and  bake  for  one  hour. 

Forcemeat  Puddings. 

Butter  well  some  small  molds  and  line  them  with  a  force- 
meat made  of  minced  veal  or  chicken.  Fill  the  center  with 
minced  duck  or  game,  and  cover  with  more  of  the  first  force- 
meat. Smooth  the  top  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  poach 
carefully  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes.  Take  them  out  and 
let  them  cool  a  little,  then  remove  the  puddings  from  the  molds. 
Dip  each  first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry 
them  in  butter  or  good  fat  until  they  are  a  golden  color. 
Goulasch  (Veal). 

Cut  freshly-boiled  veal  into  rather  small  pieces  and  fry  in 
butter,  seasoning  with  minced  onion,  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt. 
Add  one  pint  of  strong  brown  stock,  and  serve  with  small  pota- 
toes and  onions  fried  in  butter  till  thoroughly  browned.  The 
vegetables  should  be  arranged  round  the  meat  in  the  dish. 
Kahab  (Veal). 

Cut  one  pound  of  lean  veal  into  thick  slices  about  two  inches 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  181 

square  and  place  them  in  an  ordinary  cooking-pot  with  two 
ounces  of  butter.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  caraway 
seeds,  a  very  small  sliced  onion,  half  a  lemon  thinly  sliced,  and 
sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt.  Fry  the  whole  gently  for  ten 
minutes.  Now  add  half  a  pint  of  sour  cream,  place  the  cook- 
ing-pot in  the  oven  and  let  the  whole  bake  gently  till  the  meat 
is  tender.  This  will  probably  take  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

The  dish  should  be  served  garnished  with  tufts  of  parsley 
and  slices  of  lemon. 

Liver  Dumplings. 

Strictly  speaking  this  should  be  made  of  goose  liver;  but 
calves'  liver  makes  an  excellent  substitute. 

Mix  together  four  beaten  eggs  and  one  ounce  of  melted  but- 
ter, and  flavor  with  parsley,  salt,  and  mixed  spice.  Stir  this 
over  the  fire  until  it  has  thickened  slightly,  and  add  a  cupful 
of  chopped  boiled  liver  and  a  good  handful  of  breadcrumbs 
moistened  with  milk.  Make  the  whole  into  balls  and  let  them 
simmer  in  any  good  broth  for  half  an  hour.  If  preferred,  the 
mixture  may  simply  be  baked  in  a  dish  instead  of  being  made 
into  dumplings,  and  will  be  found  equally  palatable. 

Fried  Liver. 

Cut  one  pound  of  calves'  liver  (which  has  been  previously 
washed  and  dried)  into  rather  thick  slices,  flour  them,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  them  into  a  frying-pan  (or  shal- 
low stew-pan  will  answer  the  purpose)  containing  three  ounces 
of  hot  beef  dripping  and  let  it  cook  gently,  turning  it  constantly 
until  it  is  done.  Place  the  liver  on  a  hot  dish  with  some  fried 
tomatoes,  arid  pour  some  thick  brown  sauce  round  the  dish, 
which  should  be  made  as  follows :  —  Stir  a  large  tablespoonf ul 
of  flour  quickly  into  the  dripping  which  is  left  in  the  pan  and 
when  it  is  smoothly  mixed  add  gradually  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  brown  stock  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  tomato  catsup ;  let 
the  sauce  boil  up,  season  it  with  pepper,  cayenne  and  salt  and 
strain  it  into  the  dish. 

Kromeskies  (Veal  or  Mutton). 

Mince  some  cooked  veal  (or  mutton)  very  finely,  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  mace,  and  add  a  small  quantity 
of  grated  lemon-peel.  Put  the  mince  into  a  small  stewpan  and 
add  sufficient  white  sauce  to  moisten  slightly,  and  when  it  is 
thoroughly  heated  stir  in  some  raw  beaten  egg  (half  an  egg 
is  enough  for  half  a  pound  of  meat),  and  spread  it  out  on  a 
dish.  As  soon  as  the  mince  is  cold,  form  it  into  little  cork- 


182  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

shaped  rissoles  and  envelop  each  in  a  very  thin  slice  (cut  so 
that  it  just  covers  the  rissole)  of  partially  cooked  fat  bacon. 
Flour  the  little  rolls  lightly,  dip  them  into  a  thick  batter  and 
fry  them  in  deep,  boiling  fat.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  covered  wth 
a  paper  d'oyley,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Minuten  Fleisch  (Veal). 

Cut  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  lean  veal  into  very  thin  slices, 
then  cut  each  of  these  into  small  squares  and  sprinkle  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Put  them  into  a  pan  with  about  half  a  tum- 
blerful of  claret  and  leave  until  thoroughly  steeped.  Next  take 
out  the  pieces  of  veal,  dip  each  into  flour,  and  place  in  a  but- 
tered baking  dish,  sprinkling  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  clear  stock  and 
bake  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender.  This  will  take  about  forty 
minutes. 

Serve  the  veal  with  the  sauce  poured  around  it. 
Mock  Rabbit  (Veal  and  Beef). 

Mince  one  pound  each  of  lean  veal  and  raw  beef  and  mix 
it  with  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs,  four  beaten  eggs,  a  spoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  a  little  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  herbs. 
After  thoroughly  blending,  shape  the  whole  in  the  form  of  a 
loaf  and  cover  with  a  mixture  of  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Line 
a  pan  with  thin  slices  of  pork,  place  the  mock  rabbit  upon  it, 
and  bake  in  the  oven  for  forty  minutes,  basting  frequently. 

This  may  be  eaten  either  hot  or  cold,  and  is  a  favorite  sup- 
per dish  in  Germany. 

Punski   (Veal). 

Fry  a  fillet  of  veal  with  a  sliced  onion.  When  cold  chop  it 
finely  and  mix  with  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
some  parsley,  adding  sufficient  stock  to  well  moisten  it.  Make 
some  pates  of  puff  paste  and  fill  with  the  meat.  Brush  with 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  bake  until  brown. 

Savory  Veal  Chops  with  Spaghetti. 

Trim  as  many  cutlets  as  are  required  for  a  dish,  removing 
nearly  all  the  fat  and  scraping  the  bones  so  that  they  are  en- 
tirely free  from  skin.  Season  some  fine  dry  breadcrumbs  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  mix  them  with  some  finely- 
minced  parsley,  the  powdered  herbs  and  a  small  quantity  of 
chopped  onion.  Flour  the  chops  and  dip  them  into  some 
beaten  egg,  then  cover  them  thickly  with  the  prepared  bread- 
crumbs; put  them  aside  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  and  fry  them 
in  plenty  of  boiling  fat.  Cook  some  spaghetti  (very  fine 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  183 

macaroni)  in  plenty  of  boiling  water,  which  has  been  slightly 
salted,  until  it  is  tender;  drain  it  thoroughly,  then  return  it  to 
the  hot  pan  and  stir  into  it  a  piece  of  butter  and  some  tomato 
catsup.  When  it  is  hot  arrange  it  in  a  mold  in  the  middle  of  a 
dish ;  place  the  chops  round  it  and  pour  some  clear  brown  sauce 
into  the  dish. 

Veal  Cream. 

Mince  and  pound  thoroughly  a  pound  of  lean  veal,  add  an 
equal  quantity  of  breadcrumbs,  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  two,  and  sufficient  milk  to  make  the  whole 
into  a  moderately  thick  paste.  Add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  pour 
the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mold.  Let  it  steam  for  one 
hour. 

Cottage  Pie  (Mince). 

Rub  a  pie-dish  over  lightly  with  a  layer  of  beef  dripping, 
then  put  in  sufficient  of  the  mince  to  come  within  an  inch  of 
the  top  of  the  dish.  Have  ready  the  mashed  potato  which 
should  be  moistened  with  milk  and  well  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  spread  it  evenly  over  the  meat,  and  let 
it  be  thick  enough  to  form  a  covering  the  shape  of  a  pastry 
pie-crust.  Smooth  the  potato  with  a  wet  knife,  then  mark 
it  in  lines  with  a  fork,  and  place  little  pieces  of  dripping  at 
intervals  all  over  the  potato.  Bake  the  pie  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  an  hour,  and  place  it  on  the  hottest  shelf  for  the  last  fifteen 
minutes  or  so,  so  that  it  may  be  well  browned. 

Roman  Pie. 

Cut  up  about  a  pound  of  cooked  meat  into  small  pieces, 
removing  all  the  fat;  chop  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon  rather 
coarsely  and  cut  three  ounces  of  macaroni  into  moderately 
thick  rings.  Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
small  onion,  a  few  strips  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  blade  of  mace; 
when  the  milk  boils  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  and 
let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Cook  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  one  ounce  of  flour  together  for  a  few  minutes  with- 
out letting  them  become  brown,  then  add  the  milk,  stirring  it 
quickly  until  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick;  season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  strain  it  into  a  bowl  and  add  the  meat, 
bacon  and  macaroni.  Butter  a  plain  tin  mold  of  a  suitable 
size,  scatter  it  thickly  with  finely  broken  vermicelli  and  line  it 
with  some  light  paste  of  medium  thickness;  fill  it  with  the  ^pre- 
pared meat,  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  paste,  and  bake  the  pie  in 
a  well-heated  oven  until  the  paste  is  thoroughly  cooked.  When 


184  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

it  is  done,  turn  it  from  the  mold  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  sur- 
round with  tomato  sauce.  'If  beef  is  used,  brown  stock  must 
replace  the  milk. 

Savory  Pasties. 

Coarsely  mince  equal  quantities  of  cooked  meat  and  ham, 
using  a  sharp  knife  for  the  purpose,  and  season  with  celery, 
salt  and  pepper.  Have  ready  some  thick  white  (or  brown) 
sauce,  which  has  been  delicately  flavored  and  mix  sufficient 
of  it  with  the  mince  to  moisten  it.  Roll  out  some  paste 
to  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  it  into 
rounds  of  about  the  size  of  a  claret  glass ;  spread  half  the  rounds 
with  the  mince,  scatter  a  little  parsley  and  some  finely-chopped 
onion  over  the  meat,  and  cover  it  with  the  remaining  rounds  of 
paste;  wet  the  edges  and  pinch  them  together,  brush  the  top  of 
the  pasties  over  with  beaten  egg  (or  milk)  and  bake  them  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Deviled  Meat. 

Prepare  a  mixture  as  follows:  —  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
thick  brown  gravy  sauce  into  a  bowl,  add  a  dessertspoonful  of 
chutney  paste,  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  a  teaspoonful 
of  Worcester  sauce,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mus- 
tard, six  drops  of  lemon  juice  (or  vinegar),  and  a  dust  of  curry 
powder.  Cut  some  slices  of  any  kind  of  cooked  meat,  and 
spread  them  evenly  with  the  mixture,  and  put  them  into  a  cool 
place  until  the  sauce  has  set;  then  lightly  flour  the  prepared 
meat  and  dip  it  into  beaten  egg,  and  cover  it  thickly  with  bread- 
crumbs and  after  letting  it  stand  for  a  short  time,  fry  it  in 
clarified  dripping,  cook  them  in  quick  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 
In  either  case  the  slices  of  meat  should  be  served  with  fried 
potatoes  in  the  middle  of  the  dish. 

Mince  with  Vegetable  Marrow. 

Remove  the  skin  from  a  small  vegetable  marrow  and  cut 
it  into  rounds  of  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness;  place 
the  pieces  of  marrow  in  a  colander  and  put  the  latter  into  a 
stewpan  of  boiling  salted  water,  and  cook  the  marrow  until 
it  is  just  tender,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  become  soft  enough  to 
break.  Drain  the  vegetable  carefully  on  a  hot  cloth,  remove 
the  seeds  and  the  stringy  portion  but  do  not  make  a  hole  right 
through  the  rounds ;  then  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  fill  them  neatly 
with  the  mince,  scatter  a  little  minced  parsley  over  it  and  pour 
some  sauce  round  the  dish. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  185 

Meat  Dumplings. 

Meat  dumplings  may  be  made  in  two  forms,  one  being  made 
of  the  thinnest  dough,  and  the  other  from  a  light  spongy  dough, 
such  as  is  used  for  an  old-fashioned  English  rump-steak  pud- 
ding. 

Any  kind  of  raw  or  cooked  meat  or  fish  can  be  used.  All 
bone,  gristle,  and  skin  must  be  removed,  and  the  meat  either 
minced  or  cut  into  long  shreds.  It  is  then  mixed  with  minced 
or  sliced  onion,  green  chili,  celery,  or  any  other  green  veg- 
etables that  are  available  and  well  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and,  if  liked,  Worcestershire  sauce. 

When  thin  dough  is  used  a  tablespoonful  of  this  mixture 
is 'Wrapped  in  a  piece  of  dough  and  steamed  for  about  an  hour. 
If  the  dumpling  is  boiled  it  is  much  more  likely  to  break  down. 

When  the  other  kind  of  dough  is  used  the  flour  should  be 
leavened  with  yeast  or  mixed  with  baking  powder,  and  should 
be  rolled  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  This,  when  steamed, 
will  expand  to  double  thickness. 

Cassoulic. 

Chop  up  any  cold  meat  and  mix  it  with  minced  bacon  and 
onion.  Add  half  as  much  boiled  haricot  beans,  which  should 
be  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  sufficient  stock  to  moisten  the 
whole.  Flavor  with  pepper,  salt,  parsley,  thyme,  marjoram,  and 
a  little  nutmeg,  and  place  in  a  dish,  covering  the  whole  thickly 
with  breadcrumbs.  'Bake  for  half  an  hour  and  serve  with 
tomato  sauce. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

ENTREES. 

Every  kind  of  entree  and  small  dish  of  that  nature  can  be 
easily  cooked  by  Soyer's  paper-bag  system,  thereby  retaining 
the  dainty  flavors  and  seasonings  which  should  be  a  feature  of 
such  dishes.  Among  the  entrees  that  follow  will  be  found 
many  stews,  for  which  the  gentle  and  thorough  cooking 
achieved  by  this  system  is  eminently  adapted. 

Mutton  Chops. 

Trim  and  roll  in  a  little  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  Put  in  a 
small  paper  bag,  seal  up,  and  place  on  grid.  Allow  six  min- 
utes in  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 


i86  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Mutton  Chop. 

Treat  in  the  same  way  as  above.  Allow  twelve  minutes  in 
a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

>  Veal  Chop. 

Same  as  above.  Allow  ten  to  twenty-five  minutes  in  very 
hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).,  according  to  thickness  of  chop. 

Sausages. 

Same  as  above.    Allow  twenty  minutes  in  very  hot  oven. 

Fillet  of  Beef. 

Take  a  slice  one  and  a  half  inches  thick  and  well  trimmed. 
Cut  in  two  or  three  pieces  horizontally.  Trim  a  little,  by 
paring  off  the  corners,  to  make  each  piece  round.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  as  desired.  Butter  the  paper  bag  well, 
also  the  fillet  of  beef.  Add  garnishing  —  as,  for  example,  from 
four  ounces  to  eight  ounces  of  either  mushrooms,  tomatoes, 
artichoke  bottoms,  olives,  a  little  anchovy,  cooked  and  sieved 
spinach,  or  any  other  kind  fancy  may  suggest.  Place  round 
the  fillet;  add  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  any  kind  of  sauce 
(this  is  purely  a  matter  of  taste).  Put  on  grid.  Allow  ten  to 
fifteen  minutes  in  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

A  large  fillet  of  beef  or  steak,  plain  or  garnished,  can  be 
cooked  in  a  buttered  or  greased  paper  bag,  but  will  require 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  very  hot  oven,  according  to  size. 
It  will  turn  out  well  grilled,  with  all  the  beautiful  gravy  re- 
tained. 

Escalop  of  Sweetbreads. 

Trim  sweetbread  and  cut  into  four  pieces.  Trim  four  large 
mushrooms  and  tomatoes.  Roll  the  sweetbread  in  flour,  and 
put  it  between  the  mushrooms  and  tomatoes.  Well  butter  your 
paper  bag,  and  arrange  the  above  nicely  in  the  middle.  Place 
one  teaspoonful  of  breadcrumbs  on  top.  Cover  with  a  slice  of 
fat  bacon  or  ham,  cut  very  thin.  Flavor  with  sweet  herbs  as 
desired.  Seal  bag,  and  put  on  grid  in  hot  oven.  Allow  twenty 
to  twenty-five  minutes  (350°  Fahr.). 

Sweetbread  (Fancy  Method). 

Half  a  small  onion,  one  slice  of  carrot,  a  little  ham  (fat 
and  lean),  and  a  little  of  the  trimming,  all  cut  into  small  dice. 
A  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  thyme,  parsley  and  bay 
leaves.  Put  these  on  the  bottom  of  the  paper-bag,  which  should 
be  well  buttered.  Lard  your  sweetbread  (if  desired).  Round 
it  put  three  or  four  mushrooms,  two  or  three  tomatoes  (skinned 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  187 

and  all  pips  removed).  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  stock  Madeira, 
or  sherry,  according  to  taste.  Seal  bag.  Put  on  grid.  Allow 
twenty-five  minutes  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

If  color  and  thick  sauce  are  desired,  mix  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  arrowroot  with  the  vegetable,  and  a  little  burnt- 
sugar  coloring.  When  you  open  the  bag,  remove  the  sweet- 
bread gently.  Place  on  dish.  Remove  tomatoes,  mushrooms, 
etc.,  and  place  round  it.  'Put  the  whole  of  the  contents  of  the 
bag  (juice  included)  in  a  strainer  and  press  with  a  wooden 
spoon  into  a  clean,  hot  bowl  standing  in  boiling  water,  then 
pour  the  gravy  thus  obtained  over  the  sweetbread. 

Sweetbreads  Au  Naturel. 

Take  four  lambs'  sweetbreads.  Blanch  them  in  boiling  water. 
Take  off  the  skins.  Grease  a  bag  thickly.  Dust  each  sweet- 
bread with  salt  and  pepper  very  lightly,  and  pour  over  each 
sweetbread  a  tablespoonful  of  cream.  Slip  the  sweetbreads 
into  the  greased  bag,  cook  in  an  only  moderately  hot  oven  (300° 
Fahr.)  slowly  for  forty  minutes.  Open  bag.  Slip  out  gently 
on  to  hot  dish.  Surround  with  border  of  green  peas  and  serve. 

Sweetbreads. 

Blanch  a  very  fresh  sweetbread  by  putting  in  a  stewpan  in 
cold  water.  Let  it  come  slowly  to  the  boil,  but  not  quite  to 
boil.  Take  the  sweetbread  from  the  stewpan  and  place  at 
once  in  cold  water.  Turn  a  plate  upside  down,  put  the  sweet- 
bread on  top,  then  put  another  plate,  the  right  way  up,  on  the 
top  of  the  sweetbread  to  obtain  pressure.  Place  a  weight  on 
top,  and  leave  it  for  thirty  minutes  or  so.  Then  trim  your 
sweetbread  by  removing  the  external  skin,  etc.  Lard  it  if  de- 
sired, but  this  is  not  absolutely  necessary. 

Put  a  very  thin  slice  of  larding  bacon  on  both  sides  of  the 
sweetbread.  Season  to  taste.  Then  take  a  paper  bag  and 
butter  it  at  the  bottom;  place  inside  it  the  sweetbread  with  a 
little  of  the  trimmings  from  the  sweetbread  round  it.  Seal  bag 
and  put  on  grid.  Allow  twenty  minutes  in  hot  oven  (350° 
Fahr.). 

If  a  thick  sauce  is  desired,  roll  the  sweetbread  well  in  flour 
before  cooking.  For  invalids  who  do  not  wish  any  grease, 
put  the  juice  in  an  odd  dish  and  dust  a  little  pepper  on  top. 
This  will  absorb  all  the  fat,  leaving  the  rich  gravy. 

Curry  of  Beef,  Veal  or  Poultry. 

Cut  up  the  meat  in  small  pieces,  add  two  very  finely-chopped 
peeled  onions,  one  teaspoonful  of  Madras  curry  paste,  one 


i88  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

peeled  and  chopped  apple,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little 
lemon  juice,  a  little  bouquet  of  herbs  tied  up.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  half  a  tumblerful  of  boiling  milk,  and  a 
banana  and  tomato  if  liked.  Mix  together.  Place  in  the  paper 
bag  and  then  on  grid  at  once.  Allow  forty-five  minutes  in  a 
hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Rice  to  be  boiled  and  served  sep- 
arately. 

Entree  of  Chicken. 

Cut  up  a  chicken  in  pieces,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  tomato  or  mushroom  (if  desired), 
or  a  little  tomato  catsup.  Add  a  small  chopped  onion,  accord- 
ing to  taste,  and  a  little  bunch  of  bay  leaf,  parsley,  and  thyme. 
Place  all  in  the  middle  of  the  bag.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  water,  stock,  or  wine,  according  to  taste.  A  little  chopped 
ham  or  bacon  (if  desired)  will  add  to  the  flavor.  Seal  bag 
up  and  place  on  grid,  and  allow  forty-five  minutes  in  hot  oven 
(350°  Fahr.). 

Any  other  poultry  treated  in  the  same  way  will  give  the 
same  satisfactory  result.  The  seasoning  and  garnish  can  be 
left  to  the  taste  of  the  cook.  The  viands  will  not  spoil  if 
left  a  little  longer  than  forty-five  minutes. 

Veal  and  Ham  Pie. 

Make  a  paste  in  the  ordinary  way.  Prepare  the  meat  as 
usual,  and  put  in  the  middle  of  the  paste,  which  should  be 
rolled  to  the  thickness  of  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  Moisten 
the  four  corners  and  fold  to  cover  the  meat.  Place  in  the 
paper  bag,  seal  up,  put  on  grid  in  a  moderate  oven  (300° 
Fahr.). 

For  one  pound  pie  allow  forty-five  minutes;  three  pounds, 
one  hour;  six  pounds,  one  and  a  half  hours;  ten  pounds,  two 
hours. 

Hare   or    Rabbit    (Roasted). 

Stuff  and  truss  a  hare  or  rabbit  in  the  ordinary  way.  Well 
sprinkle  with  flour,  and  rub  with  cream,  butter,  or  dripping. 
Place  in  a  paper  bag  with  seasoning  (according  to  taste)  in 
the  usual  way.  Put  on  grid  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Allow 
forty-five  minutes. 

Stewed  Rabbit 

Treat  in  the  same  way  as  the  hare.  It  can  be  made  most 
tender  and  palatable  with  only  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  flour, 
and  one  chopped  onion,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  a 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  189 

little  dripping.  Place  in  a  paper  bag.  Allow  forty  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Stewed  Hare. 

Cut  up  the  hare  in  pieces,  place  on  dish,  add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Add  an  apple  and  a  little  fat  bacon  or  ham  if  de- 
sired. As  a  substitute,  two  ounces  of  butter  or  a  tablespoonful 
of  lard  will  be  equally  satisfactory.  One  large  finely-chopped 
onion,  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  (to  taste),  a  large  tablespoonful 
of  flour.  Mix  together.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  tumbler  of  water, 
stock,  or  wine,  mix  with  the  other  ingredients,  place  all  to- 
gether in  a  paper  bag,  and  lay  on  the  grid.  Allow  forty-five 
minutes  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Irish  Stew. 

Cut  up  two  or  three  pounds  of  mutton  in  the  ordinary  way. 
Leave  very  little  fat.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Add  six 
large  onions,  peeled  and  finely  chopped,  and  two  pounds  of 
peeled  and  thinly-sliced  medium-sized  potatoes,  and  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs.  Place  above  in  a  bag,  and  add  half  a  tumbler 
of  cold  water.  Place  on  grid  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Allow 
forty  minutes. 

Sheep's  Kidneys 

or  any  other  kidney  grill.  Skin  the  kidney,  split  and  place 
on  skewer  in  the  usual  way.  Season  to  taste,  and  add  a  little 
butter  on  top.  Place  in  a  well-buttered  paper  bag  and  seal. 
Place  on  grid  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Allow  five 
minutes. 

Stewed  Kidney 

of  any  kind  except  beef.  Clean  and  cut  up  in  several  pieces, 
not  too  thin.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  For  six  kidneys 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  or  half  a  teaspoonful  of  arrow- 
root. Add  a  little  chopped  tomato  and  a  few  slices  of  mush- 
room. Add  any  kind  of  sauce,  also  one  teaspoonful  of  sherry 
or  Madeira  (if  desired),  one  shallot,  not  cut,  or  a  small  piece 
of  onion,  not  cut,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Mix  all  care- 
fully on  a  plate.  Butter  or  grease  the  paper  bag,  seal  up. 
Place  on  grid  in  very  hot  oven.  Allow  five  minutes.  The 
oven  must  be  very  hot  (375°  Fahr.).  Remove  onion  or  shallot 
before  serving  in  a  very  hot  dish. 

Beef,  Veal,  Pork,  or  Mutton, 

or  any  other  meat  can  be  treated  by  the  same  method.  Cut 
up  the  meat  in  slices.  Chop  finely  a  small  onion  or  shallot. 


190  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Add  any  kind  of  tomato  sauce  or  catsup,  also  a  few  herbs  (tied 
together),  according  to  taste.  Add  fresh  tomatoes  or  mush- 
room (according  to  taste),  salt  and  pepper.  Place  a  little  but- 
ter with  the  above  in  the  paper  bag  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour.  Mix  together,  and  when  bag  is  sealed  up  place  on  grid 
in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.)  for  forty  minutes,  when  it  will  be 
ready,  and  can  be  served  in  paper  bag  or  dished  up  in  the  or- 
dinary way. 

Curried  Venison. 

Cut  up  three  pounds  of  lean  venison  (mutton  or  beef  can  be 
used  instead).  Peel  and  chop  three  tomatoes,  and  add  one 
large  tablespoonful  of  flour,  three  finely-chopped  onions,  a 
large  teaspoonful  of  Madras  curry  paste,  a  teaspoonful  of 
Demerara  sugar,  a  chopped  apple,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  well- 
washed  rice,  and  a  pint  of  milk.  Place  in  a  paper  bag,  seal  up, 
and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  (350°  Fahr.),  for  forty-five 
minutes. 

Fillet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Mirande. 

Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  rump  steak,  and  cut  it  into  neat 
slices  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  and  two  and  a  half 
inches  long  and  broad.  Dust  each  of  these  lightly  with  black 
pepper;  melt  an  ounce  of  butter  and  skim  it  free  from  froth; 
add  to  it  as  much  finely  minced  garlic  as  will  go  on  the  point 
of  a  very  small  knife.  Lay  the  fillets  in  this,  and  let  them 
steep  for  an  hour,  turning  frequently  (the  dish  must  stand 
in  a  warm  place  or  the  butter  will  set).  Then  take  out,  put 
in  a  well-buttered  bag  and  place  on  the  grid  in  the  oven,  leav- 
ing it  to  cook  for  half  an  hour  (300°  Fahr.).  Meanwhile, 
knead  an  ounce  of  flour  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  add  to  it  by 
degrees  half  a  pint  of  strong,  well-flavored  stock,  place  in  a 
clean  saucepan,  and  stir  all  one  way  until  it  is  the  consistency 
of  cream;  then  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  previously  cooked 
mushrooms,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  freed  from  pips,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  China  soy,  and  a  couple  of  drops  of  anchovy  es- 
sence. Make  very  hot.  Pile  up  the  mushrooms  in  the  center 
of  a  hot  entree  dish,  arrange  the  fillets  round  and  garnish 
with  a  wall  of  mashed  potatoes.  Serve  at  once. 

Veal  cutlet  is  aljo  excellent  cooked  after  this  recipe,  and  so, 
too,  is  mutton  steak. 

Croustades  de  Faisan  a  la  Royale. 

Take  the  remains  of  a  cold  roast  pheasant;  free  it  from 
skin  and  bone,  and  cut  it  into  neat,  small  squares.  Have  ready 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  191 

a  little  well-flavored  brown  sauce  —  sauce  Madere  is  excellent 
for  this  purpose  —  add  the  pieces  of  pheasant  to  it,  and  make 
very  hot  in  a  well-greased  bag.  Have  ready  also  half  a  dozen 
freshly  fried  croustades,  and  note  that  they  should  be  very  hot, 
too.  Fill  each  with  the  above  mixture,  garnish  with  stoned 
olives  which  have  been  heated  in  a  little  sherry,  and  serve  at 
once. 

The  remains  of  a  cold  partridge  are  excellent  heated  in 
this  fashion;  so,  too,  is  duck,  but  in  this  latter  case  a  sauce 
piquante  should  be  used  in  place  of  brown  or  sauce  Madere, 
as  otherwise  the  croustade  would  be  too  rich  for  most  people's 
liking.  If  a  bag  is  used  for  this  rechauffe  it  is  impossible  to 
tell  the  difference  from  freshly  cooked  game. 

Cotelettes  a  la  Paysanne. 

Take  from  four  to  eight  chops,  mutton  or  lamb.  Trim 
them  of  all  superfluous  fat.  Scrape  the  bones  neatly.  Dust 
them  with  a  little  minced  shallot  and  spiced  seasoning,  i.e., 
pepper,  salt  and  a  tiny  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  a  little  celery 
salt  mixed.  Grease  a  bag  thickly.  Put  in  the  chops.  Add  to 
them  half  a  pint  of  half-cooked  peas,  an  ounce  of  bacon  (flank 
will  do),  cut  small,  a  pound  of  new  potatoes,  and  half  a  pint 
of  stock  or  water.  Note. —  If  four  chops  only  are  used  a 
gill  of  stock  will  be  sufficient.  Fold  over  the  bag.  Put  on 
the  grid  and  cook  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  an  hour.  Open 
bag.  Empty  out  into  a  very  hot  dish.  Arrange  the  peas  and 
potatoes  into  a  border  with  a  heated  fork.  Stir  up  the  gravy, 
and  send  to  table.  Note  that  the  potatoes  must  be  also  par- 
boiled before  being  put  into  the  bag.  For  lamb  chops  thirty 
minutes  in  350°  Fahr.,  is  sufficient  time  to  allow. 

Chops  a  1'Espagnol. 

Take  four  or  six  chops.  Trim  as  directed  in  the  fore- 
going recipe.  Dust  them  with  pepper  and  salt.  Have  ready  a 
greased  bag  and  six  ounces  of  freshly-boiled  rice.  Mix  with 
the  rice  the  contents  of  a  small  bottle  of  tomato  catsup. 
Place  the  rice  in  the  bag.  Then  put  in  the  chops  on  top  of 
the  rice.  Fold,  clip,  put  on  the  grid,  and  cook  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.).  Take  out,  dish 
up,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  If  liked,  the  rice  can  be 
cooked  with  the  chops;  in  this  case  it  must  first  be  soaked 
all  night  and  then  allowed  an  hour  and  a  quarter's  slow  cook- 
ing. Note. —  Arrange  the  rice  as  a  border  and  serve  chipped 
potatoes  separately. 


192  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cotelettes  a  la  St.  Cecile. 

Take  four  lamb  chops,  from  half  a  pint  to  a  pint  of  par- 
boiled peas,  and  a  pound  of  parboiled  new  potatoes.  Grease 
two  bags  thickly.  Put  the  peas  and  potatoes,  together  with 
one  and  a  half  ounces  of  butter,  in  one  bag.  Place  on  grid  and 
put  into  a  moderately  hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.).  Let  them  cook 
for  twenty  minutes  before  putting  in  the  bag  with  the  chops. 
Meanwhile,  trim  the  chops  very  neatly.  Free  them  from  su- 
perfluous fat.  Flatten  them  well  with  the  chop  bat,  and 
spread  them  on  both  sides  with  a  layer  of  foiegras.  Have 
ready  some  freshly-fried  breadcrumbs.  Sprinkle  these  lightly 
on  each  side  of  the  chops.  Take  care  not  to  overdo  this.  Place 
in  a  Soyer  D  size  bag.  Fold,  clip,  place  on  grid  in  the  oven. 
Cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Dish  up  the  peas  and  potatoes  as  a 
border.  Put  the  chops  in  the  middle.  Pour  their  own  gravy 
over  them  and  serve  at  once. 

Cotellettes  Aux  Navettes. 

Take  half  a  bunch  ef  young  French  turnips,  peel  and  trim 
them  all  as  nearly  as  possible  to  one  size.  Dust  them  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  preserve.  Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  mutton 
chops.  Trim  as  above  directed.  Dust  well  with  celery  salt 
and  a  very  little  white  pepper,  and  some  salted  flour.  Grease 
a  bag  well.  Put  in  half  the  turnips,  then  the  chops,  then  the 
rest  of  the  turnips.  Add  half  a  pint  of  chicken  stock.  Fold 
the  bag,  clip;  place  on  the  grid  and  cook  slowly  for  an  hour 
and  a  half  (300°  Fahr.).  Dish  up  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  tur- 
nips as  a  border.  Pour  the  sauce  —  which  will  be  of  a  delicate 
creamy  consistency  and  taste  —  over,  and  serve  with  asparagus, 
handed  separately. 

This  dish  should  be  selected  when  there  has  been  roast  fowl 
the  day  beforehand,  as  the  stock  can  be  made  from  the  cooked 
carcase  of  the  fowl,  as  follows:  —  Break  up  the  carcase  into 
small  pieces.  Add  any  pieces  of  skin  remaining,  an  onion 
stuck  with  a  clove,  a  tiny  bit  of  mace,  and  a  gooU-sized  sprig 
of  well-washed  parsley.  Add  rather  more  than  half  a  pint  of 
water.  Bring  to  the  boil,  then  simmer  very  slowly,  and  do 
not  let  it  boil  away  or  reduce  at  all  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Strain  off.  Add  salt  to  taste,  and  use  as  directed  in  the 
above  recipe. 

Chops  in  a  Hurry. 

Take  four  chops.  Trim  them  well.  Dust  them  lightly  with 
salt  and  pepper.  If  no  cooked  peas  are  to  hand,  take  a  bottle 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  193 

(not  can)  of  peas,  free  them  from  the  preserving  liquor,  and 
wash  well  in  cold  water.  Take  half  a  bottle  of  tomato  catsup. 
Pour  it  into  a  well-greased  bag.  Add  the  peas,  and  cook  for 
•fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Meanwhile  take 
another  greased  bag.  Put  into  it  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  a 
few  chicken  livers,  and  the  chops.  Fold,  and  cook  all  together 
for  twenty  minutes.  Dish  up  the  chops  on  a  very  hot  dish. 
Arrange  the  chicken  livers  on  top  of  the  chops;  put  the 
peas  and  tomato  round  as  a  border,  and  send  to  table  at  once. 
Note. —  The  bacon,  which  is  only  used  as  a  flavoring  agent, 
must  not  be  sent  to  table. 

Chops  a  I'lndienne. 

For  those  who  like  hot  things  the  following  may  be  recom- 
mended:—  Take  a  teaspoonful  of  salted  flour,  mix  with  it  thor- 
oughly a  heaped  large  teaspoonful  of  good  curry  powder  — 
two  if  liked.  Grease  a  bag  very  thoroughly.  Have  ready 
from  four  to  six  chops  trimmed  as  directed  before.  Dust 
these  with  the  flour.  Put  them  into  the  bag,  and  add  to  them 
a  heaped  dessertspoonful  of.  finely-chopped  spring  onions  and 
half  a  pint  of  chicken  or  other  well-flavored  stock.  Fold  and 
cook  gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  (300°  Fahr.).  Dish 
up  on  hot  dish.  Stir  the  sauce  round  well  and  serve.  If  liked, 
the  flour  and  curry  powder  can  be  mixed  with  the  cold  stock 
instead  of  being  dusted  on  to  the  chops.  Water  will  do  when 
stock  is  not  to  hand,  but  in  this  case  add  a  little  more  salt. 

Chops  for  the  Nursery. 

Every  mother  is  aware  of  the  nourishing  properties  of 
barley,  but  not  every  child  can  be  got  to  take  the  barley  in  the 
shape  of  porridge.  The  appended  recipe  solves  the  difficulty 
by  giving  the  barley  at  dinner  instead  of  at  breakfast  time. 
Soak  four  ounces  of  thoroughly  washed  pearl  barley  for  twenty- 
four  hours.  Have  ready  a  well-greased  bag,  six  small  peeled 
whole  onions  (select  those  about  the  size  of  a  small  Tangerine) 
and  the  requisite  number  of  chops.  Free  the  chops  from  all 
but  the  smallest  quantity  of  fat,  dust  them  with  salt,  place 
them  in  the  bag.  Add  to  them  the  onions  and  the  barley,  salt 
to  taste,  and  if  any  of  the  water  in  which  the  latter  was 
soaked  remains,  add  this  also.  If  not,  add  half  a  pint  of 
chicken  stock  prepared  as  before  indicated.  Fold  and  clip  the 
bag.  Place  on  grid,  and  cook  gently  in  an  only  moderately 
hot  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half  (300°  Fahr.).  Empty  out 
on  to  a  dish  and  serve.  Veal  can  also  be  cooked  in  this  way, 


194  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  for  invalids  the  dish  can  be  most  highly  recommended, 
as  it  contains  nothing  to  upset  even  the  most  delicate  diges- 
tion. 

Economical  Stew. 

Grease  the  bag  well.  Wash  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  fresh 
pieces  of  mutton  well.  Dust  them  thickly  with  salted  barley 
flour  and  slightly  with  pepper.  Peel  and  slice  one  pound  of 
onions  and  two  pounds  of  potatoes  thinly.  Wash  them  well. 
Put  them  wet  into  the  bag  with  the  meat  in  layers.  Then  add 
about  half  a  pint  of  water.  Put  the  bag  on  the  grid.  Cook 
slowly  for  two  hours  (275°  Fahr.).  Dish  up  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  stir  round  well. 

Chicken,  Game,  Etc.,  on  Spatchcock. 

Split  the  chicken  down  the  middle.  Well  open.  Pass  two 
skewers  longways  to  prevent  the  chicken  from  curling.  Take 
and  break  one  very  fresh  egg.  Beat  well.  Add  to  it  a  little 
salt  and  black  pepper,  one  ounce  of  melted  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  Worcester  or  other  sauce,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
mixed  mustard.  Mix  together.  With  a  brush  glaze  the  whole 
chicken  with  the  mixture.  Then  place  the  breadcrumbs  all 
round.  Butter  the  bag  well  all  over  the  inside.  Place  chicken 
in  it.  Seal  up,  and  place  on  the  grid.  Be  very  careful  not  to 
tear  the  bag  with  the  skewers.  Allow  thirty-five  to  forty  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Salmi  de  Caneton. 

Take  a  cold  roast  duck  and  joint  it  neatly.  Place  the  car- 
case, giblets,  bones,  etc.,  in  a  clean,  enameled  iron  stewpan; 
add  to  them  a  couple  of  sage  leaves  or  a  little  powdered  sage, 
a  large  onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  a  pinch  of  powdered  sweet 
herbs,  and  half  a  pint  of  stock.  Bring  to  the  boil,  skim  care- 
fully, and  then  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  sim- 
mer very  slowly  until  the  goodness  is  fairly  extracted.  Then 
strain  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  clean  saucepan,  place  on  the 
fire,  and  reduce  about  one-third.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
the  peel  from  half  a  dozen  French  olives,  and  half  a  glass  of 
port. 

Meanwhile  grease  a  bag  thickly,  place  in  it  the  joints  of  the 
duck,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  in  350°  Fahr. 

Remove  the  bag  from  the  oven  and  pour  the  gravy  in. 
Close  the  bag  and  make  it  very  hot  for  ten  minutes. 

Then  dish  up  on  a  hot  salmi  dish  and  serve,  garnished  with 
fried  croutons  and  accompanied  by  chipped  or  straw  potatoes. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  195 

Blackcock,  ptarmigan,  or,  indeed,  any  kind  of  game  may  also 
be  rechauffed  after  this  recipe. 

COLD  MEAT  COOKERY. 

Cannelon  a  la  Royale. 

Take  a  pound  of  cold  roast  veal,  free  it  from  skin  and  fat, 
etc.,  and  pass  it  through  a  meat  chopper  twice.  Add  to  it 
six  ounces  of  cooked  ham,  fat  and  lean  together,  also  minced. 
Mix;  then  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  teaspoonful  of 
minced  parsley,  a  teaspoon  half  full  of  minced  shallot,  a  little 
grated  lemon  peel,  and  a  dust  of  nutmeg.  Mix  again.  Add 
the  well-beaten  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs;  shape  into  a 
roll,  wrap  up  in  a  piece  of  clean  well-greased  Soyer  paper, 
place  in  bag,  and  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  300°  Fahr, 
Take  out  of  bag  very  carefully,  unroll,  dish  upon  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  with  Portugaise  sauce. 

For  the  sauce,  rub  a  pound  of  ripe  tomatoes  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Place  the  pulp  thus  obtained  in  a  clean  enameled  iron 
saucepan.  Add  to  it  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  teaspoonful 
of  sifted  sugar,  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  or  else  as  much  chopped  garlic  as  will  go  on  the 
point  of  a  very  small  knife.  Make  very  hot  and  allow  it  to  re- 
duce —  j>e.,  boil  away  a  little  —  then  use.  Half  a  wineglassful 
of  cooking  port  is  an  immense  improvement  to  the  above  sauce ; 
so,  too,  is  a  bit  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  walnut. 

Roulade  de  Boeuf  a  la  Napolitaine. 

Take  a  pound  of  cold  roast  beef,  free  it  from  skin  and  fat, 
etc.,  and  pass  it  through  the  meat  chopper.  Add  to  it  six 
ounces  of  finely-minced  (cooked)  ham  or  bacon,  fat  and  lean 
together.  Season  highly  with  pepper  and  salt.  Add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-minced  olives,  a  few  drops  of  tabasco,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  minced  parsley,  a  little  grated  lemon  peel  and  a 
dust  of  nutmeg.  Mix  all  together;  then  add  to  it  four  ounces 
of  previously  cooked  macaroni  which  has  been  cut  into  one 
inch  lengths  and  tossed  in  a  little  butter.  Mix  again.  Add 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  finally  the  whites 
whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Mix  thoroughly;  roll  up  in  a  piece 
of  clean  well-greased  paper,  place  in  the  bag,  fold  and  clip, 
put  on  the  grid,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.) 
for  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  with  the  same  sauce  as  in  the 
foregoing  recipe. 


196  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Mouton  Grille  a  1'Indienne. 

Underdone  mutton,  for  which  no  other  use  can  be  found, 
may  be  turned  into  a  very  nice  grill  as  follows :  —  Cut  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  slices  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  and  cut  into 
rounds  or  squares.  Melt  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a 
large  walnut  on  a  plate  in  the  oven.  Add  to  it  a  teaspoonful 
of  Harvey's  sauce,  and  salt  to  taste.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
leave  the  slices  of  mutton  in  the  mixture  for  at  least  an  hour 
before  they  are  required.  Have  ready  a  number  of  fried 
croutons,  allowing  one  to  each  piece  of  mutton;  place  the  lat- 
ter on  these,  put  them  in  a  well-greased  paper  bag.  Put  bag 
on  grid,  cook  for  eight  minutes  and  serve  at  once,  accompanied 
by  Portugaise  sauce —  handed  separately  —  and  mashed  po- 
tatoes. Instructions  for  Portugaise  sauce  is  given  in  the  first 
recipe. 

Beef  and  veal,  but  more  especially  the  former,  are  also  ex- 
cellent, treated  after  the  foregoing  fashion.  Horse-radish 
sauce  should  be  served  with  these  in  place  of  sauce  Portu- 
gaise. 

Cold  Fish. 

Take  off  all  flesh  from  the  fish  bones.  Mash  up  a  few  po- 
tatoes. Season  to  taste.  Grease  paper  bag.  Place  mashed 
potatoes  at  the  bottom,  flat.  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  on 
the  top  of  the  fish,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper, 
a  little  chopped  parsley  (if  desired),  anchovy  or  other  sauce. 
Mix  together.  Place  the  mixture  on  top  of  the  potato  and  put 
in  the  bag.  Seal  up,  and  place  on  the  grid.  Allow  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Cold  Meat  or  Poultry. 

can  be  done  the  same  way,  but  omit  milk,  and  substitute  the 
same  quantity  of  water  or  stock,  and  add  an  onion  or  shallot 
(not  cut  up). 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  197 


EGGS. 

Various  Dishes  Composed  of  Eggs. 

Dishes  composed  of  eggs  bulk  very  largely  in  English  menus 
for  breakfast  and  luncheons,  but  there  is  no  reason  why  they 
should  not  figure  on  dinner  menus,  especially  during  the  season 
of  Lent,  when  the  choice  of  viands  is  somewhat  limited. 

Many  of  the  dishes  given  in  this  section  may,  quite  ad- 
vantageously, be  served  as  entrees,  and  will  be  found  to  be 
agreeable  variants  to  the  usual  Lenten  fish  diet. 

Just  a  word  as  to  the  making  of  omelettes.  In  households 
where  those  are  esteemed  and  not  merely  partaken  of  at  long 
intervals,  it  will  repay  the  cook  to  keep  one  pan  especially  for 
omelettes,  thus  ensuring  perfect  cleanliness  —  an  absolutely  es- 
sential condition  of  things  where  omelettes  are  concerned. 

OMELETTES. 
French  Omelette. 

Break  two  eggs  into  a  bowl,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  minced 
parsley,  and  chives,  etc.,  and  beat  together  for  about  one 
minute.  Melt  one  ounce  of  butter  in  an  omelette  pan  and 
when  this  smokes  pour  in  the  eggs,  and  do  not  touch  them  for 
a  few  seconds,  till  the  liquid  has  set  a  little  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pan ;  tilt  the  pan  a  trifle  to  one  side,  and  if  there  is  a  small 
puff  of  steam,  lift  the  edge  up  carefully  with  a  knife,  to  allow 
as  much  liquid  as  possible  to  run  underneath;  repeat  this  till 
there  is  no  more  egg  liquid  left,  and  the  top  is  just  set;  insert 
a  knife  under  the  omelette,  fold  it  over,  and  slip  it  at  once  on 
to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  immediately.  It  can  be  varied  to  any 
extent  by,  just  before  folding  it  over,  dropping  in  any  kind  of 
vegetable  mixture,  such  as  mushrooms,  chopped  up  and  pre- 
viously lightly  fried  in  a  little  butter. 

This  is  a  French  omelette,  which  should  be  moist  and 
flaky.  For  an  omelette  souffle,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  sep- 
arately to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  them  last  of  all  before  cook- 
ing. 


198  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Omelette  Jambon. 

To  prepare  this  omelette  separate  the  whites  and  yolk  of  as 
many  eggs  as  are  needed  and  add  to  each  half  its  volume  of 
milk  thickened  with  rice  flour  or  corn  starch.  Flavor  with 
pepper  and  salt  and,  if  liked,  a  few  drops  of  Worcestershire 
sauce. 

Have  ready  a  mixture  composed  of  equal  parts  of  chopped 
boiled  ham  or  roast  pork,  minced  cooked  green  peas,  chopped 
onion  or  shallot,  sliced  tomatoes,  and  sliced  boiled  mushrooms. 
Season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  separately  and  thor- 
oughly, then  mix  them  quickly  with  the  other  ingredients,  and 
place  the  whole  in  a  deep  dish.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the 
outside  is  browned,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Gravy  sauce 
should  accompany  this  dish  if  liked. 

Breadcrumbs  Omelette. 

Whip  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  with  a  cupful  of  cream,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cornflour,  and  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs.  Now  stir 
in  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  a  little  minced  onion, 
parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  and  cook  in  a  butter  pan  until  the 
omelette  is  well  browned. 

It  should  be  then  be  simply  folded  and  served  with  a  puree 
of  asparagus  tips,  spinach,  or  any  other  vegetable  that  is  pre- 
ferred. 

Another  method  is  to  make  the  omelettes  in  the  usual  way 
without  breadcrumbs,  and  before  folding  place  in  the  center 
some  bread  cut  into  small  dice  and  fried  in  butter. 

Cheese  Omelette. 

Add  a  heaped-up  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese  to  the  or- 
dinary omelette  mixture,  sprinkling  some  over  it  just  before 
serving. 

French  Bean  Omelette. 

Heat  some  cooked  French  beans  in  butter,  and  place  them 
between  a  plain  omelette. 

Green  Pea  Omelette. 

Place  between  an  omelette  a  few  green  peas,  made  very  hot 
and  tossed  in  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Potato  Omelette. 

To  four  eggs  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  very  smoothly 
mashed  potato;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream,  a  small  piece  of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  199 

butter,  pepper  and  salt,  whip  all  together,  and  then  fry  as  be- 
fore. 

Spanish  Omelette. 

Fry  in  olive  oil  or  butter  a  sliced  lamb's  kidney,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  ham,  four  fresh  mushrooms  finely  minced,  and 
one  green  chili,  an  onion,  some  parsley  and  a  bay  leaf,  all 
chopped  as  finely  as  possible.  Now  add  three  skinned  and 
sliced  tomatoes  and  a  cupful  of  clear  stock;  simmer  this  gently 
for  half  an  hour,  when  it  will  be  ready. 

Now  whip  separately  the  whites  and  yolks  of  six  eggs  and 
stir  them  together  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  previously 
mixed  with  the  same  quantity  of  milk  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt.  Pour  into  a  buttered  pan  and  cook  lightly.  Before  fold- 
ing the  omelette  pour  upon  it  the  sauce  described  above. 

Tomato  Omelette. 

Make  an  ordinary  omelette,  and  before  serving  pour  this 
mixture  into  it :  —  Take  two  or  three  tomatoes  and  cut  them 
into  pieces;  slice  an  onion  very  thin,  melt  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan  and  place  the  onion  in  it.  Cook  them, 
but  do  not  allow  to  color;  add  pepper,  salt,  and  the  pieces  of 
tomato.  Stir  all  together  for  ten  minutes,  take  out  the  mix- 
ture, pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  return  to  the  pan;  thoroughly 
reheat,  and  serve. 

Poached   Eggs. 

Fry  an  onion  with  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  a  bay  leaf  — 
and  half  a  clove  of  garlic  if  liked  —  in  one  ounce  of  butter. 
Add  half  a  pint  of  clear  stock  and  the  same  quantity  of  red 
wine  or  cider,  and  cook  gently  until  the  sauce  is  well  blended. 
Now  poach  six  eggs  in  vinegar  and  water,  and  after  draining 
carefully  place  them  upon  pieces  of  toast  which  have  been 
plunged  for  a  moment  into  hot  water.  Strain  the  sauce,  add 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  pour  it  around  the  eggs.  A  bor- 
der of  parsley  adds  to  the  appearance  of  this  dish. 

Eggs  Poached  in  Rice  Cases. 

Boil  some  rice  in  water  until  it  is  thoroughly  cooked,  then 
drain  it  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg. Spread  the  rice  evenly  on  a  flat  dish  so  that  it  is  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  when  it  is  cold  cut  it  out  into  as  many 
rounds  as  are  required  with  a  medium-sized  cutter;  press  the 
top  of  each  with  the  bowl  of  a  dessertspoon  so  as  to  make 
slightly  hollow.  Brush  the  rice  over  with  beaten  egg,  then 
cover  it  with  dry  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  the  rounds  quickly  in 


200  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

a  bath  of  boiling  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Poach  one  egg 
for  each  round  of  rice,  poaching  in  water  to  which  has  been 
added  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  when  ready  trim  the 
eggs  neatly  and  dish  them  up  on  the  rounds  of  fried  rice,  and, 
if  practicable,  surround  them  with  hot  tomato  sauce. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Curried  Onions. 

Blanch  and  slice  one  onion,  and  fry  in  fat  until  it  is  a 
golden  color,  mix  with  it  a  little  good  curry  sauce.  Poach 
two  or  more  eggs  carefully,  and  put  them  on  neat  squares  or 
rounds  of  buttered  toast.  Pour  the  curried  onions  round,  and 
serve. 

Poached  Eggs  and  Calves'  Liver. 

Take  one  pound  of  cooked  calves'  liver,  mince  thoroughly 
with  sufficient  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  mix  with  just  enough 
strong  stock  to  well  moisten  the  whole  and  pass  it  through  a 
sieve.  Now  arrange  the  puree  on  a  very  hot  dish,  place  six 
poached  eggs  upon  it,  and  pour  around  a  little  thick  stock 
flavored  with  tarragon  vinegar  and  capers. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Reine. 

Poach  as  many  fresh  eggs  as  are  required  in  water,  to  which 
is  added  a  spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Drain  them  on  a  cloth, 
and  dish  up  on  rounds  of  fried  bread.  Pour  some  thick  brown 
curry  sauce  over  the  eggs,  scatter  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley 
over  each,  and  serve  at  once. 

Poached  Eggs. 

In  an  earthenware  cooking  vessel  melt  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  with  one  small  onion  minced  very  fine,  and  a  sprinkling 
of  pepper  and  salt.  Parsley  or  other  herbs  may  be  substituted 
for  the  onion.  One  by  one  drop  six  eggs  into  the  melted  but- 
ter and  as  soon  as  they  are  browned  a  little  on  the  under 
side  turn  them  carefully  and  brown  on  the  other  side. 

The  eggs  should  be  served  at  once  in  the  vessel  in  which 
they  have  been  cooked. 

Buttered  Eggs. 

Melt  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  break  two 
eggs  into  the  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  till 
the  eggs  thicken.  Serve  on  toast.  This  dish  is  much  im- 
proved by  having  a  few  cooked  peas  warmed  in  the  egg,  or 
pieces  of  cooked  asparagus  or  French  beans. 

Buttered  Eggs  and  Mushrooms. 
Make  some  buttered  eggs  in  the  above  manner,  but  before 


8.s 


L  I 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  201 

cooking  them  add  some  cooked  minced  mushrooms,  peeled  and 
sprinkled  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  on  rounds  of  buttered 
toast. 

Fricassee  of  Eggs. 

Take  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  them  in  half  and  remove 
the  yolks,  and  pound  these  together  with  a  tiny  taste  of  shallot, 
chopped  parsley,  seasoning  and  butter.  Fill  the  whites  with 
the  mixture  and  keep  them  hot.  Make  some  nice  white  sauce, 
pour  over  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

Curried  Eggs. 

Boil  two  eggs  hard,  and  cut  in  fairly  thick  slices.  Place 
each  one  on  a  crouton  of  fried  bread,  and  pour  a  nice  curry 
sauce  over;  or  cut  the  eggs  into  quarters,  and  surround  with  a 
border  of  rice,  and  pour  a  good  curry  sauce  over  the  eggs. 

Eggs  a  la  Lucerne. 

Fry  one  small  sliced  onion  and  put  it  through  a  sieve,  mix 
with  it  one  dessertspoonful  of  flour  which  has  been  mixed 
smooth  in  rather  less  than  half  a  pint  of  milk;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  about  seven  minutes. 
Beat  well  two  fresh  eggs,  stir  these  into  the  milk  and  onion, 
have  ready  some  hot  buttered  toast,  and  after  stirring  the  eggs 
for  five  minutes  pour  over  the  toast,  and'  send  at  once  to  table. 

Savory  Eggs. 

Parboil,  slice  and  fry  one  large  onion  nearly  brown,  add 
half  a  pint  of  milk  and  three  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices. 
Stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Beat  well  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  (dried  and 
chopped),  one  ounce  of  grated  cheese,  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 
Add  and  stir  this  over  a  slow  fire  for  seven  or  eight  minutes. 
Give  one  squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Savory  Eggs. 

Boil  three  eggs  until  they  are  hard,  then  take  off  their  shells 
and  leave  them  until  they  are  cold;  then  cut  them  in  half  and 
remove  the  yolks  and  pound  these  till  quite  smooth,  mixing 
with  them  a  little  chopped  parsley,  tomato  puree,  salt  and  pep- 
per. Slice  a  small  piece  off  the  tops  of  the  whites,  so  that 
they  will  stand  upright,  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  putting 
a  sprig  of  parsley  into  the  center  of  each,  and  serve  them  on  a 
bed  of  small  salad. 

Egg  Cutlets. 

Boil  two  or  three  eggs  quite  hard,  shell,  and  cut  into  rather 


202  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

thick  slices.  Dip  each  slice  into  beaten  egg,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  minced  parsley.  Fry  a  light  brown,  and 
take  them  out  of  the  pan  the  minute  they  are  done.  Drain, 
and  arrange  round  a  pyramid  of  savory  rice,  and  pour  tomato 
sauce  round. 

Baked  Eggs. 

Slice  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  place  a  layer  of  them  in  a  well- 
buttered  baking-dish,  and  sprinkle  thinly  with  grated  cheese. 
Then  place  another  layer  of  egg,  and  so  on,  until  all  are  used. 
Pour  half  a  pint  of  strong  white  stock  over  the  eggs  and 
cover  thickly  with  a  mixture  of  breadcrumbs  and  grated 
cheese.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  ten  minutes  and  serve  in 
the  same  dish. 

Baked  Eggs.     (Another  Method.) 

Place  six  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  in  a  buttered  dish  and 
pour  over  them  a  sauce  made  by  stirring  over  a  fire  the 
following  ingredients :  —  A  tablespoonful  of  grated  ham,  an 
ounce  of  grated  cheese,  the  same  quantity  of  butter,  half  a 
cupful  of  stewed  tomatoes,  a  cupful  of  white  stock  flavored 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  nutmeg,  parsley,  pepper, 
and  salt.  This  should  be  cooked  twenty  minutes  and  strained 
before  adding  to  the  eggs.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  fairly  thick 
layer  of  bread  crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Baked  Eggs.     (Another  Method.) 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  dish  with  some  thin 
slices  of  Gruyere  cheese,  and  break  over  it  eight  new-laid  eggs, 
taking  care  not  to  break  the  yolks.  Season  with  a  little  pep- 
per, salt,  and  nutmeg.  Now  pour  a  gill  of  good  thick  cream 
over  the  eggs  and  sprinkle  with  about  two  ounces  of  grated 
Gruyere  cheese.  Set  the  dish  in  an  oven  and  bake  for  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  If  the  surface  is  not  sufficiently  browned 
a  hot  salamander  can  be  passed  over  it. 

Strips  of  thin  dry  toast  should  be  passed  round  with  this 
dish. 

Baked  Eggs  in  Cases. 

Take  some  china  or  paper  ramakin  cases,  butter  them  well 
inside,  chop  very  finely  a  little  parsley  and  a  small  piece  of 
onion.  Mix  this  with  some  fine  breadcrumbs.  Sprinkle  some 
of  this  mixture  in  the  cases.  Put  the  cases  on  a  hot  baking- 
sheet,  break  an  egg  on  each,  and  cover  with  the  rest  of  the 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  203 

mixture;  put  into  a  hot  oven,  and  when  set,  but  not  hard,  dish 
at  once. 

Baked  Eggs  and  Tomatoes. 

Fry  two  teaspoonfuls  of  minced  onion  in  a  little  clarified  drip- 
ping until  it  is  a  pale  golden  color;  then  add  the  tomatoes 
which  have  been  previously  scalded  and  skinned  and  cut  into 
small  pieces,  season  with  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  the 
contents  of  the  pan  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Put 
the  breadcrumbs  into  a  bowl,  and  when  the  tomatoes  are  ready 
turn  out  on  to  the  crumbs  and  beat  all  together.  Whisk  the 
eggs  thoroughly  (whites  and  yolks  together),  with  a  patent 
egg-beater,  and  mix  them  with  the  tomatoes;  scatter  some 
browned  crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for 
about  ten  minutes. 

Creamed  Eggs. 

Butter  some  little  fireproof  china  saucepans,  and  break  neatly 
into  each  a  fresh  egg.  Pour  over  each  a  spoonful  of  cream, 
season  with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Put  into  the  oven  until 
set,  and  serve  at  once. 

Egg  Sandwiches. 

For  these,  pound  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  a  small 
piece  of  butter  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  and  of 
tomato  puree,  until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed.  Melt  a  lump 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  mixture  and  stir  until  it  is 
quite  hot.  Then  spread  between  fingers  of  hot  buttered  toast. 
Garnish  the  top  of  each  sandwich  with  the  whites  of  the  'eggs 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Eggs  Au  Gratin. 

Boil  three  or  four  eggs  quite  hard.  When  cool  cut  into 
rather  thick  slices.  Lay  in  a  well-buttered  fireproof  dish. 
Sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  fine  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pep- 
per. Pour  over  some  white  sauce.  Sprinkle  with  brown 
crumbs,  make  thoroughly  hot  and  brown  with  a  salamander. 

Eggs  and  Cheese. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  large  plate  with  equal  parts  of  bread- 
crumbs, grated  cheese  and  butter,  and  mix  with  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  and  any  spices  that  are  liked.  Spread  this  thickly 
over  the  bottom  of  the  plate  and  place  in  an  oven  until  brown. 
Take  out  and  at  once  break  into  the  plate  as  many  eggs  as 
will  cover  it.  Sprinkle  these  thickly  with  grated  cheese  and 
place  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set.  If  the  cheese  is 


204  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

not  sufficiently  browned  the  use  of  a  salamander  will  put  this 
right. 

Stewed  Eggs  and  Cheese. 

Allow  one  egg  for  each  person  and  take  half  the  weight  in 
butter  and  one-third  of  the  weight  in  grated  cheese.  Thor- 
oughly beat  the  eggs  and  then  mix  well  with  the  cheese  and 
butter,  flavoring  with  pepper  and  salt.  Cook  in  an  earthen- 
ware pot  or  an  enameled  saucepan  until  the  mixture  is  quite 
thick,  and  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish  before  serving.  A  little 
chopped  parsley  may  be  added  to  this  dish. 

Broiled  Eggs. 

Place  the  flesh  of  two  tomatoes,  without  the  skins  and  seeds, 
in  a  frying-pan  with  some  boiling  oil.  Add  a  little  salt  and 
some  minced  fresh  pimento,  with  herbs,  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Break  over  this  two  eggs  and  mix  the  whole  briskly  over  a  fire 
until  the  eggs  are  set. 

Eggs  and  Rice  Cutlets  with  Macaroni. 

Grate  the  whites  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  and  pound  them 
in  a  mortar  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  half  an  ounce  of 
butter;  add  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  boiled  rice,  moisten  the 
paste  with  a  little  cream,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  black 
pepper.  Divide  the  mixture  and  shape  it  on  a  floured  board 
into  the  form  of  cutlets.  Dip  them  into  some  beaten  egg,  and 
cover  them  thickly  with  fine  breadcrumbs;  leave  them  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  fry  the  cutlets  in  plenty  of  boil- 
ing fat.  Boil  some  straight  pipe  macaroni  until  it  is  tender, 
and  cut  it  up  into  small  pieces  about  half  an  inch  in  length; 
then  reheat  it  in  a  small  quantity  of  parsley  sauce.  Arrange 
the  macaroni  in  a  hot  dish,  and  put  the  cutlets  round  it. 

Eggs  Sur  La  Plat. 

Melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelette-pan;  the  moment 
the  butter  is  melted,  slip  in  'three  eggs  carefully,  avoiding 
breaking  the  yolks.  Have  three  pieces  of  crisp  toast  on  a 
hot  dish,  cover  each  piece  lightly  with  anchovy  paste;  directly 
the  eggs  are  set,  place  them  carefully  on  the  toast,  one  egg 
on  each  piece,  and  pour  the  hot  butter  from  the  pan  over 
them;  dust  with  a  shake  of  cayenne,  and  sprinkle  a  little  finely- 
chopped  parsley  over  the  center  of  each  egg. 

Egg  Kromeskies. 

Poach  as  many  eggs  as  are  required  in  water  to  which  a 
small  quantity  of  vinegar  has  been  added;  cook  them  until 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  205 

they  are  well  set,  and  then  put  them  into  cold  water.  When 
cold  drain  the  eggs  on  a  clean  cloth;  sprinkle  some  salt  and 
pepper  over  them;  dip  them  into  batter,  and  fry  quickly  in 
plenty  of  boiling  fat,  so  that  the  batter  has  only  time  to  be- 
come a  pale  golden  brown. 

Eggs  a  la  Reine. 

Remove  the  shells  from  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  them  in 
half  lengthways,  and  remove  the  yolks.  Put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  rice  cooked  in  stock  into  a  bowl,  season  it  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  a  dust  of  curry  powder,  and  add  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  after  breaking  them  up  with  a  fork,  and  beat  the 
mixture  for  a  few  minutes,  moisten  it  slightly  with  cream 
or  milk,  and  then  fill  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  it;  dip  them 
into  some  beaten  egg,  and  then  cover  them  thickly  with  fine 
crumbs,  and  put  them  aside  for  a  "quarter  of  an  hour.  Fry 
the  stuffed  eggs  in  plenty  of  boiling  fat,  and  serve  them  on 
thick  slices  of  tomato  which  have  been  cooked  in  clarified 
dripping,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Stuffed  Eggs  a  la  Diable. 

Hard  boil  the  eggs,  shell,  place  for  a  few  minutes  in  cold 
water.  Cut  a  little  piece  from  the  pointed  end  and  halve 
each  egg  with  a  sharp  knife.  Remove  the  yolk;  pound  this 
with  butter,  salt  and  a  seasoning  of  curry  powder  until  a  soft 
smooth  paste  is  formed.  Refill  the  eggs  with  this  mixture 
and  serve  each  on  a  little  round  of  lightly  fried  bread.  Scat- 
ter a  little  coralline  pepper  on  each  egg,  and  garnish  with 
parsley  or  cress.  This  may  be  served  cold.  If  a  hot  dish 
is  needed,  prepare  the  eggs  as  before,  place  in  a  fireproof 
entree  dish,  pour  a  curry  sauce  or  white  sauce  over,  and  make 
quite  hot. 

Birds'  Nests. 

Take  the  required  number  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  cover  them 
with  smoothly-mashed  potato,  in  which  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
curry  powder  has  been  mixed;  roll  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  a  golden  brown.  Cut  in  half  and  serve  each  half  on  a 
round  of  fried  toast. 

Egg  and  Sausage  Salad. 

Hard  boil  three  eggs  and  cut  them  into  slices,  and  cut  some 
Bologna  sausage  into  as  many  slices  as  you  have  pieces  of  egg. 
Place  a  slice  of  egg  on  each  piece  of  sausage,  and  arrange 
them  on  some  finely-shredded  lettuce  which  has  been  dressed 
with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 


206  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Eggs  in  Ramakin  Cases. 

Remove  the  pointed  end  from  four  hard-boiled  eggs  and  cut 
a  slice  from  the  other  end  so  that  the  eggs  may  stand  evenly. 
Take  out  the  yolks  by  making  a  small  hole  at  the  pointed  end, 
either  with  an  apple-corer  or  a  skewer,  but  be  careful  not  to 
break  the  white  of  the  eggs.  Put  the  yolks  into  a  bowl  and 
break  them  up  with  butter,  using  a  small  wooden  spoon  for 
the  purpose,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  potted  meat,  one 
teaspoonful  of  parsley,  one  dessertspoonful  of  tomato  catsup, 
and  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  curry  powder,  and  rub  the  mixture 
through  a  pointed  metal  gravy  strainer  with  a  teaspoon  on  to 
a  soup  plate.  Take  up  a  small  quantity  at  a  time  in  the  spoon 
and  with  the  aid  of  a  finely-pointed  skewer  fill  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  with  the  prepared  yolks  letting  the  filling  stand  well 
above  the  white.  Place  each  egg  as  it  is  filled  in  a  china  ram- 
akin  case,  and  when  all  are  ready  decorate  them  with  small 
heart-shaped  pieces  of  cucumber,  which  should  be  brushed 
over  on  one  side  with  warm  butter  to  make  them  adhere,  or, 
if  preferred,  the  eggs  may  be  served  plain. 

Egg  and  Cauliflower  Croustades. 

Cut  some  rounds  from  slices  of  bread  (about  half  an  inch 
thick)  with  a  large  cutter,  and  with  a  small  cutter  remove  a 
little  piece  from  the  middle  of  each;  dip  the  pieces  of  bread 
quickly  into  milk,  and  then  into  beaten  egg,  cover  them  with 
fine  crumbs  and  fry  them  in  boiling  fat.  Prepare  some  but- 
tered eggs  in  the  usual  way,  and  while  the  mixture  is  soft 
and  creamy  add  some  small  pieces  of  cooked  cauliflower  to  it; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dust  of  curry  powder,  and  if 
liked,  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  cheese  and  stir  until  the  egg 
begins  to  set,  then  pile  up  the  mixture  on  the  croustades  (or 
bread  cases),  scatter  a  few  browned  breadcrumbs  over  the 
top,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Eggs  in  Batter. 

Take  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  peel  carefully  and  dip  them  in 
batter.  Fry  until  brown,  then  dip  and  fry  again,  and  continue 
the  process  till  the  eggs  are  twice  their  usual  size.  They  may 
then  be  placed  upon  a  puree  of  spinach  or  other  green  veg- 
etable, or  they  may  be  served  with  tomato  sauce. 
Eggs  and  Chestnuts. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  two  sliced  sausages,  one  large  sliced 
boiled  carrot,  a  dozen  roast  chestnuts  —  without  their  shells  — 
a  spoonful  of  butter,  and  a  small  teacupful  of  any  white  stock. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  207 

Cook  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while,  and 
then  add  a  spoonful  of  sherry  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Pour  this  mixture  over  ten  fried  eggs  on  a  dish. 

Fried  Eggs. 

Fry  four  new-laid  eggs  in  olive  oil,  and  after  removing 
them  to  a  hot  dish,  mix  with  the  oil  in  the  cooking-pan  six 
mushrooms,  half  a  green  chili  finely  minced,  and  half  a  cup- 
ful of  clear  stock.  Cook  carefully  till  the  mushrooms  are  done 
and  pour  it  around  the  eggs  before  serving. 

Piedmontese  Eggs. 

Remove  the  bones  and  skin  from  four,  anchovies,  mince 
finely,  and  warm  them  until  thoroughly  dissolved  in  half  a 
pint  of  stock;  but  do  not  allow  the  stock  to  become  too  hot. 
Whip  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  stir  in  the  beaten  whites  of 
two  with  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt.  Add  to  the  stock  and  stir 
the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  smooth,  and  then 
pour  it  into  a  well-buttered  dish  previously  lined  with  slices 
of  toast.  Cover  the  surface  rather  thickly  with  grated  cheese, 
and  bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Carmelite  Eggs. 

Make  a  vegetable  puree  by  boiling  spinach,  asparagus  tips  — 
or  any  other  vegetable  —  with  herbs  and  seasoning,  and  mix- 
ing it  with  a  cupful  of  cream  previous  to  pressing  through  a 
sieve.  Pour  the  puree  into  a  well-buttered  baking  dish,  smooth 
the  surface  and  break  over  it  very  carefully  from  four  to  six 
new-laid  eggs.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  eggs  are 
set. 

Bercy  Eggs. 

Put  half  of  the  butter  to  be  used  in  a  dish;  let  it  melt,  break 
the  eggs,  taking  care  not  to  burst  the  yolks;  baste  the  latter 
with  the  rest  of  the  butter,  and  season.  Cook  until  the  whites 
are  quite  done  and  the  yolks  are  glossy.  Garnish  with  a  small, 
grilled  sausage,  placed  between  the  yolks,  and  surround  with 
a  thread  of  tomato  sauce. 

Eggs  with  Brown  Butter. 

may  be  prepared  by  either  of  these  methods:  — 

(1)  Cook  the  eggs  in  a  dish  as  above  and  then  cover  them 
with  one-quarter  ounce  of  brown  butter  and  a  few  drops  of 
vinegar,  which  should  be  added  after  the  butter. 

(2)  Put  one-half   ounce   of   butter   into   a   small    omelette- 
pan,   and   cook   until   almost  black.    Break  the   eggs   into   it, 


2o8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

season,  cook,  tilt  them  gently  on  to  a  dish,  and  besprinkle 
with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  with  which  the  omelette-pan  has 
been  rinsed. 

Deviled  Eggs. 

Cook  the  eggs  in  the  omelette-pan;  turn  them  with  care, 
after  the  manner  of  pancakes.  Slide  them  gently  into  a  dish, 
and  besprinkle  them  with  brown  butter  and  a  few  drops  of 
vinegar  with  which  the  omelette-pan  has  been  rinsed. 

Eggs  a  la  Florence. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  dish  with  spinach  leaves  stewed  in 
butter;  sprinkle  thereon  two  pinches  of  grated  cheese;  break 
the  eggs  upon  this  garnish,  and  cover  them  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Mornay  sauce.  Place  in  a  fierce  oven,  so  that 
the  cooking  and  glazing  of  the  eggs  may  be  effected  simul- 
taneously. 

Eggs  Au  Gratin. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  very  hot  Mornay  sauce  into  a  dish. 
Break  the  eggs  into  it,  cover  with  Mornay  sauce,  sprinkle 
with  grated  cheese  mixed  with  fine  raspings,  and  cook  in  a 
fierce  oven. 

Jockey  Club  Eggs. 

Cook  the  eggs  in  an  omelette-pan;  tilt  them  gently  on  to  a 
dish,  and  trim  them  with  a  round  fancy-cutter.  Place  each 
egg  upon  a  round,  thin  piece  of  toast,  and  then  cover  with  foie- 
gras  puree.  Arrange  in  the  form  of  a  crown,  on  a  dish,  and 
pour  into  the  middle  a  garnish  of  calves'  kidneys  cut  into  dice 
and  sauted,  and  truffles  similarly  cut. 

Mirabeau  Eggs. 

For  ordinary  butter  substitute  anchovy  butter.  Break  the 
eggs  and  cook  them.  Surround  each  yolk  with  anchovy  fillets, 
and  garnish  each  with  a  spray  of  parboiled  tarragon  leaves. 
Place  a  large  olive  stuffed  with  tarragon  butter  on  either  side 
the  yolks. 

Pacha  Eggs. 

Garnish  a  dish  with  a  large  tablespoonful  of  minced  onions 
cooked  in  butter  and  unbrowned.  Break  the  eggs  over  the 
garnish,  sprinkle  with  a  small  tablespoonful  of  dry,  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  and  cook  in  a  fierce  oven  so  that  slight 
gratin  may  form  as  soon  as  the  eggs  are  done. 

Parmentier  Eggs. 
Bake  some  potatoes  in  the  oven.     Open  them,  from  above, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  209 

with  an  oval  fancy  cutter;  remove  the  pulp  from  the  in- 
side, rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  make  a  smooth  puree  of  it. 
Half-fill  the  potato-shells  with  this  puree,  break  an  egg  into 
each,  besprinkle  with  cream,  and  cook  in  the  oven.  Replace 
the  part  of  the  baked  shell  removed  in  the  first  instance,  and 
serve  on  a  napkin. 

Eggs  a  la  Portugaise. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  fondue  into  a  dish.  Break 
the  eggs  upon  this,  season,  and  cook.  Between  the  eggs  and 
at  each  end  of  the  dish  put  a  little  heap  of  tomato  fondue, 
and  on  each  heap  drop  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley. 

Eggs  a  la  Reine. 

Cook  the  eggs  in  an  omelette-pan,  and  trim  with  a  round 
fancy  cutter.  Put  each  egg  upon  a  small  disc  of  Duchesse 
potatoes,  of  the  same  size  as  the  egg,  previously  browned  in 
the  oven.  Arrange  the  eggs  in  a  circle  round  the  dish;  in  the 
middle  put  a  chicken  mincemeat,  and  surround  with  a  border  of 
Supreme  sauce. 

Poached  Eggs. 

Use  perfectly  fresh  eggs,  for  it  is  quite  impossible  to  ob- 
tain an  even  poaching  without. 

Have  ready  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  salted  water  (one- 
third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  per  quart  of  water),  slightly  acidu- 
lated with  vinegar.  Break  the  eggs  over  that  part  of  the 
water  which  is  actually  boiling. 

Do  not  put  more  than  six  eggs  at  a  time  into  the  same  sauce- 
pan, then  the  poaching  will  be  effected  more  equally. 

As  soon  as  the  eggs  are  in  the  water,  let  the  latter  simmer. 
The  egg  is  poached  when  the  white  has  enveloped  the  yolk, 
and  when  it  may  be  touched  without  breaking.  The  usual 
time  allowed  for  poaching  is  three  minutes. 

Withdraw  the  eggs  by  means  of  a  slice;  dip  them  into  cold 
water,  trim  their  whites,  and  put  them  back  into  moderately 
warm  water  until  ready  to  serve. 

The  Cooking  of  Soft-Boiled  Eggs. 

These  ought  to  be  very  fresh,  as  in  the  case  of  poached 
eggs.  Keep  the  water  boiling;  plunge  the  eggs  therein  as  di- 
rected; leave  them  to  cook  for  six  minutes  from  the  time  the 
water  has  regained  the  boiling-point;  drain,  steep  for  a  mo- 
ment in  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  shell  the  eggs  carefully. 
Keep  them  in  a  moderately-salted  hot  water  until  ready  to 
serve. 


2io  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Poached  Eggs  Argenteuil. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  some  tartlet  crusts  with  cooked  as- 
paragus cut  into  pieces,  and  six  green  asparagus-heads,  about 
one  and  one-half  inches  in  length,  arranged  starwise.  Place 
an  egg,  coated  with  cream  sauce  mixed  with  half  its  volume 
of  asparagus  puree,  upon  each  tartlet. 

Poached  Eggs  a  1'Aurore. 

Coat  the  eggs  with  Aurora  sauce,  and  dish  them  on  rounds 
of  toast. 

Poached  Eggs  en  Berceau. 

Bake  some  potatoes  in  the  oven.  Cut  each  in  half, 
lengthwise,  with  the  point  of  a  small  knife,  and  remove  the 
pulp.  Coat  the  interiors  with  a  chicken  mincemeat  mixed  with 
cream,  and  place  an  egg  coated  with  Aurora  sauce  in  each. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Bohemienne. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  some  tartlet  crusts  with  a  salpicon  of 
foie-gras  and  truffles  cohered  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
following  sauce :  —  For  six  eggs,  dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of 
whitemeat  glaze;  add  thereto  half  a  teaspoonful  of  truffle  es- 
sence, and  finish  with  a  lump  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a 
pigeon's  egg.  Take  enough  of  this  sauce  to  effect  the  co- 
hering of  the  salpicon;  coat  the  eggs  with  Hungarian  sauce, 
and  place  one  upon  each  garnished  tartlet. 

Poached  Eggs  Boiel-Dieu. 

Garnish  the  tartlets  with  a  white  chicken-meat,  foie-gras, 
and  truffle  salpicon  cohered  with  poultry  veloute.  Coat  the 
eggs  with  a  reduced  and  thickened  poultry  gravy. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Bruxelloise. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  braised  endives,  thickened 
with  cream.  Place  an  egg,  coated  with  cream  sauce,  upon 
each;  sprinkle  with  bread  raspings  and  set  to  glaze  in  a  fierce 
oven. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Clamart. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  green  peas,  cooked  and 
mixed  with  finely-shredded  lettuce  which  should  have  cooked 
with  them.  Place  an  egg,  coated  with  cream  sauce  which  has 
been  finished  with  fresh  pea  puree  upon  each. 

Poached  Eggs  Colbert. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetable. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  211 

Place  a  plainly-poached  egg  upon  each,  and  send  Colbert  but- 
ter, separately,  to  the  table  with  the  tartlets. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Comtesse. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  white  asparagus  puree. 
Place  an  egg  coated  with  sauce  upon  each,  and  sprinkle  with 
chopped  truffles. 

Poached  Eggs  Grand  Due. 

Place  the  eggs  on  fried  rusks,  with  a  nice  slice  of  truffle  on 
each;  arrange  them  in  a  circle  round  the  dish,  coat  with 
Mornay  sauce,  and  set  to  glaze  in  a  fierce  oven.  On  with- 
drawing the  dish  from  the  oven,  put  in  the  center  a  garnish 
composed  of  asparagus  heads  and  a  small  faggot  of  the  latter, 
very  green  and  cooked. 

Poached  Eggs  Maintenon. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  a  Soubise  a  la  Bechamel, 
slightly  thickened  by  reduction.  Coat  the  eggs  with  Mornay 
sauce,  besprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  and  place  them  in  the 
crusts. 

Set  the  glaze  in  a  fierce  oven,  and,  on  withdrawing  the  dish 
from  the  oven,  surround  the  crusts  with  brown  sauce. 

Poached  Eggs  Massena. 

Heat  six  medium-sized  artichoke  bottoms.  Slightly  hollow 
them,  if  necessary,  and  garnish  each  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
Bearnaise  sauce.  Place  an  egg,  coated  with  Portugaise  sauce, 
upon  each  artichoke  bottom;  then  place  a  slice-  of  poached 
marrow  and  ox-tongue  upon  each  egg,  and  a  little  chopped 
parsley  upon  each  slice  of  marrow. 

Poached  Eggs  Mornay. 

Coat  the  eggs  with  Mornay  sauce,  and  besprinkle  with  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  mixed  with  fine  raspings.  With  a  slice, 
carefully  transfer  the  eggs  to  pieces  of  toast  fried  in  butter. 
Arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  each  egg  with  a  few 
drops  of  melted  butter,  and  set  to  glaze  quickly  in  a  fierce  oven. 

Poached  Eggs  d'Orsay. 

Place  the  eggs  upon  the  toast  fried  in  butter.  Arrange  them 
in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  coat  them  with  Colbert  sauce. 

Poached  Eggs  Rossini 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts,  each  with  a  slice  of  foie-gras 

seasoned,  sprinkled  with  flour,  and  fried  in  butter.     Place  an 

egg,  coated  with  thickened  veal  gravy  with  Madeira,  on  each 


212  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

tartlet,  and  complete  by  means  of  a  large  slice  of  very  black 
truffle  or  ox  tongue  on  each  egg. 

Poached  Eggs  Sevigne. 

Prepare  some  thin  rusks;  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  and 
stuff  them  with  a  mince  of  braised  lettuce.  Place  an  egg  on 
each  stuffed  rusk;  coat  with  veloute  mixed  with  brown  sauce; 
arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  complete  by  means  of  a 
ring  of  very  black  truffle  and  foie-gras  on  each  egg. 

Poached  Eggs  Victoria. 

Garnish  some  tartlet  crusts  with  a  salpicon  made  from  three 
ounces  of  spiny-lobster  meat  and  one  ounce  of  truffles,  mixed 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce.  Place  an  egg,  coated 
with  white  sauce,  on  each  tartlet.  Dish,  and  set  to  glaze  in  a 
fierce  oven. 

Hard-B oiled  Eggs  Chimay. 

Cut  the  eggs,  lengthwise,  in  two.  Remove  the  yolks,  pound 
them  into  a  paste,  by  pressing  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  add 
thereto  an  equal  quantity  of  dry  Duxelle.  Fill  the  empty 
whites  with  the  preparation;  place  them  on  a  buttered  gratin- 
dish;  cover  with  Mornay  sauce;  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese; 
pour  a  few  drops  of  melted  butter  upon  the  sauce,  and  set  to 
color  brown  in  a  fierce  oven. 

Hard-Boiled  Eggs  in  Croquettes. 

Cut  the  eggs  into  small  dice  (white  and  yolks).  For  every 
four  eggs  add  four  ounces  of  cooked  mushrooms  and  one 
ounce  of  truffles,  cut  into  dice. 

Thicken  the  whole  with  one-quarter  pint  of  reduced  white 
sauce,  and  spread  on  a  dish  to  cool. 

When  cold,  divide  the  preparation  into  portions  weighing 
about  one  and  a  half  ounces;  roll  these  portions  into  balls  on  a 
floured  mixing-board,  and  then  shape  them  like  eggs.  Dip 
them  into  a  froth  of  well-beaten  eggs  and  then  roll  them  in 
fresh  breadcrumbs,  and  finish  off  the  shape.  Put  them  into 
hot  fat  for  four  minutes  before  dishing  up;  drain,  salt  mod- 
erately, place  on  a  napkin,  with  a  center  garnish  of  very  green, 
fresh  parsley,  and  send  tomato  sauce  to  the  table  with  them. 

Hard-Boiled  Eggs  in  Rissoles. 

Make  a  preparation  of  eggs  as  for  croquettes,  using  a  little 
more  sauce.  Roll  some  puff-paste  trimmings  to  a  thickness  of 
one-quarter  inch,  and  stamp  it  with  a  round  indented  cutter 
two  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  213 

Place  a  small  tablespoonful  of  the  preparation  in  the  middle 
of  each  piece  of  paste;  moisten  slightly  all  round,  and  make 
the  rissoles  by  folding  the  outside  edges  of  the  paste  over  one 
another  to  look  like  a  closed  purse,  taking  care  to  press  them 
thus  together  so  as  to  join  them,  thus  completely  enclosing  the 
preparation.  Egg  and  breadcrumb  them,  put  them  into  hot 
fat  four  minutes  before  serving,  and  dish  up  on  a  napkin,  with 
a  center  garnish  of  parsley. 

Eggs  a  la  Tripe. 

For  six  eggs,  finely  mince  two  onions,  and  fry  them  in  but- 
ter, without  letting  them  take  any  color.  Add  one  pint  of 
Bechamel  sauce,  and  set  to  cook  gently  for  ten  minutes.  A 
few  minutes  before  serving  add  the  eggs,  cut  into  large  slices, 
to  the  sauce.  Next  add  three  spoonfuls  of  cream  and  well 
season  as  to  taste. 

Dish  up  in  a  timbale. 

Eggs  a  la  Tripe.     (Another  Method.) 

For  six  eggs  chop  up  one  large  onion  and  fry  in  butter,  but 
not  to  take  color.  Sprinkle  them  with  one-half  ounce  of  flour, 
moisten  with  one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper. 

Set  to  cook,  gently,  for  fifteen  minutes;  pass  through  a  fine 
sieve,  transfer  to  a  saucepan,  and  heat  it  well.  Dish  up  the 
eggs,  quartered,  in  a  timbale,  and  cover  with  the  preparation 
of  onions,  very  hot. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte. 

To  poach  eggs  en  cocotte  use  the  bain-marie. 

Cocottes  for  eggs,  which  may  be  replaced  by  little  china  or 
plaited  cases,  are  a  kind  of  small  saucepan  in  earthenware,  in 
porcelain,  or  in  silver,  provided  with  a  handle.  The  time 
generally  allowed  for  the  cooking  or  poaching  of  eggs  in  this 
way  is  ten  minutes,  but  this  is  subject  to  variations  either  way. 

Having  garnished  the  cocottes  and  broken  the  eggs  into 
them,  as  directed  in  the  recipes  which  follow,  set  them  in  a 
flat  pan  and  pour  in  enough  boiling  water  to  reach  within  one- 
half  inch  of  the  brims  of  the  cocottes.  Place  in  the  oven  and 
cover,  just  leaving  sufficient  opening  for  the  steam  to  escape. 

The  eggs  are  done  when  the  whites  are  almost  set  and  the 
yolks  are  glossy.  Dish  them  on  a  napkin  or  on  a  fancy  dish- 
paper. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  with  Cream. 

Heat  the  cocottes  beforehand;  pour  a  tablespoonful  of  cream 


214  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

into  each,  followed  by  an  egg,  broken;  season,  and  add  two 
little  lumps  of  butter,  the  size  of  one  hazel  nut.  Place  the 
cocottes  in  a  'bain-marie,  and  poach  as  before. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  a  la  Jeanne. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  the  cocottes  with  a  thickness  of  one- 
third  inch  of  chicken  forcemeat  with  cream,  mixed  with  a 
fourth  of  its  volume  of  foie-gras.  Break  the  egg  over  the 
middle,  season,  and  poach  in  the  usual  way.  When  about  to 
serve,  surround  the  eggs  with  a  line  of  thin  white  sauce. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  with  Gravy. 

Break  the  eggs  into  buttered  cocottes.  Season,  poach,  and, 
when  about  to  serve,  surround  the  yolks  with  a  thin  but  good 
gravy. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  a  la  Lorraine. 

Put  a  teaspoonful  of  pork,  cut  into  dice  and  fried,  into  each 
cocotte,  also  two  slices  of  Gruyere  or  Parmesan  cheese  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  boiling  cream.  Break  the  eggs,  season, 
and  poach  in  the  usual  way. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  Roulotte. 

Garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  cocottes  with  cooked 
spinach,  chopped  and  pressed,  lettuce  leaves,  which  should  be 
stewed  in  butter.  Break  the  eggs,  season,  poach  in  the  usual 
way,  and,  when  about  to  send  the  eggs  to  the  table,  drop  a 
touch  of  chopped  parsley  on  each  yolk. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  with  Morels. 

Garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  cocottes  with  minced 
morels  fried  in  butter  and  thickened  with  a  little  reduced 
brown  sauce.  Break  the  eggs,  season,  poach,  and  surround  the 
yolks  with  a  thread  of  the  same  sauce  when  dishing  up. 

Eggs  en  Cocotte  a  la  Soubise. 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  the  cocottes  with  a  coating  of  thick 
Soubise  puree.  Break  the  eggs,  season,  and  poach.  When 
dishing  up,  surround  the  yolks  with  a  thread  of  good  gravy. 

Neapolitan  Molded  Eggs. 

Make  a  mixture  consisting  of  scrambled  eggs  and  Par- 
mesan cheese,  keeping  it  very  soft;  add  per  four  scrambled 
eggs,  two  small  raw  eggs.  Fill  some  little,  well-buttered 
brioche-molds  with  this  preparation,  and  poach  in  the  bain- 
marie.  As  soon  as  contents  are  properly  set,  turn  out  the 
molds  on  to  a  buttered  gratin  dish,  besprinkle  with  grated  Par- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  215 

mesan  cheese,  and  coat  the  eggs  with  reduced  and  buttered 
brown  sauce  with  tomato. 

Molded  Eggs  Palermitaine. 

Butter  some  shaped  or  plain  molds ;  garnish  the  bottoms  with 
a  slice  of  ox  tongue,  and  besprinkle  the  sides  with  chopped 
parsley.  Put  the  molds  in  ice  for  a  while,  to  set  the  tongue 
in  the  butter.  Break  an  egg  into  each  mold,  season,  and  poach 
in  the  bain-marie.  Turn  out  the  molds  on  tartlet  crusts,  gar- 
nish with  macaroni  and  cream. 

Princess  Eggs. 

Butter  some  narrow  and  deep  dariole-molds ;  garnish  their 
bottoms  with  a  slice  of  truffle,  and  their  sides  with  a  very  thin 
coating  of  chicken  forcemeat. 

Make  a  preparation  of  scrambled  eggs,  asparagus-heads,  and 
truffles  cut  into  dice,  keeping  them  very  soft,  and  add  thereto 
raw  beaten  eggs  in  the  proportion  of  one  raw  egg  to  every 
four  scrambled. 

Fill  the  molds  nearly  full  with  this  preparation;  cover  the 
eggs  with  a  coating  of  forcemeat,  and  poach  in  a  bain-marie 
for  fifteen  minutes  slowly. 

Turn  out  the  molds  on  a  dish,  and  surround  them  with  a 
thread  of  clear  poultry  brown  sauce. 

Eggs  Printanier. 

Butter  some  hexagonal  molds,  and  garnish  them,  Chartreuse 
fashion,  with  cut-up,  cooked  vegetables,  varying  the  shades. 
Break  an  egg  into  each  mold;  season,  and  poach  in  a  bain- 
marie.  Turn  out  the  molds  upon  little  round  pieces  of  toast; 
arrange  these  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  pour  in  their  midst 
a  cream  sauce  finished  by  means  of  a  Printanier  butter  with 
herbs,  in  the  proportion  of  one  ounce  of  butter  to  one-quarter 
pint  of  sauce. 

Scrambled  Eggs. 

This  dish  is  the  finest  of  all  egg  preparations,  provided  the 
eggs  be  kept  soft  and  creamy. 

They  are  mostly  served  in  silver  timbales,  but  may  also 
be  dished  in  special  little  croustades,  or  in  tartlet  crusts,  with 
small  pieces  of  toast  shaped  like  crescents,  lozenges,  rings, 
palmettes,  etc.  Cook  the  eggs  in  the  usual  way,  in  a  utensil 
in  direct  contact  with  the  fire;  but  in  order  that  the  process 
of  cooking  may  be  progressive  and  gradual,  see  that  the  heat 
is  only  moderate. 


216  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Method  of  Scrambling  Eggs. 

For  six  eggs,  slightly  heat  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan. Add  the  six  eggs,  beaten  moderately,  together  with  a 
large  pinch  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  cream;  place  the  pan  on  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  constantly 
with  a  wooden  spoon  or  whisk,  taking  care  to  avoid  anything 
in  the  way  of  sudden,  fierce  heat,  which  would  cause  lumps 
to  form  in  the  mass  —  which  should  be  guarded  against. 

When  the  eggs  have  acquired  the  proper  consistence,  and 
are  still  smooth  and  creamy,  take  the  saucepan  off  the  fire, 
and  finish  by  means  of  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  cream.  Only  whisk  the  eggs  to  be 
scrambled  when  absolutely  necessary. 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Mushrooms. 

Add  to  the  scrambled  eggs  six  ounces  of  cooked  mushrooms 
cut  into  dice,  or  raw  mushrooms,  minced  and  sauted  in  butter, 
for  every  four  eggs. 

Dish  in  a  timbale;  put  a  fine,  cooked,  and  grooved  mush- 
room in  middle,  and  surround  with  a  crown  of  mushroom 
buttons. 

Eggs  Scrambled  Chasseur. 

Dish  the  scrambled  eggs  in  a  timbale.  Hollow  out  the  mid- 
dle, and  place  a  garnish  of  one  fine  chicken's  liver.  sauted_Qzr 
every  four  eggs.  Sprinkle  a  pinch  of  parsle^or  tarragon  on 
the  garnish,  and  surround  with  a  thread  of  brown  sauce. 

Eggs  Scrambled  Chatillon. 

Dish  the  eggs  in  a  timbale,  well  buttered  and  bread- 
crumbed,  and  place  a  garnish  of  mushrooms  in  the  center. 
The  mushrooms  should  be  minced  raw,  and  then  sauted  in  but- 
ter. Sprinkle  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  on  the  garnish,  and 
surround  with  a  thread  of  melted  meat-glaze.  Border  the 
whole,  close  to  the  sides  of  the  timbale,  with  small  crescents 
of  croutons. 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Shrimps. 

Dish  the  scrambled  eggs  in  a  silver  dish.  Place  a  little 
heap  of  shrimps'  tails  bound  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls 
of  shrimp  sauce  in  the  middle,  and  surround  with  a  thread 
of  the  same  sauce. 

Eggs  Scrambled  Fines  Herbes. 

Add  to  the  scrambled  eggs  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, chervil  and  tarragon  leaves  in  equal  quantities. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  217 

Eggs  Scrambled  with  Cheese. 

Break  the  eggs,  beat  them,  season  and  add  thereto  for  every 
two  eggs,  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan.  Cook  the  eggs 
in  the  usual  way  on  a  very  moderate  fire,  to  keep  them  creamy. 

Scrambled  Eggs  Georgette. 

Bake  six  potatoes  in  the  oven.  Open  them  by  means  of  an 
incision  on  their  tops;  withdraw  the  pulp  from  the  interior 
with  the  handle  of  a  spoon,  and  keep  the  remaining  shells  hot. 
Prepare  the  scrambled  eggs  in  the  usual  way,  and  finish 
them  away  from  the  fire  with  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  cray- 
fish butter,  and  eight  or  ten  shelled  crayfish  tails,  or  lobster 
or  oyster  previously  poached.  Garnish  the  potato  shells  with 
the  preparation  and  dish  up  on  a  napkin. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Morels. 

Add  to  the  scrambled  eggs  some  minced  morels,  sauted  in 
butter  and  seasoned.  Dish  in  timbales  in  the  usual  way. 

Eggs  Scrambled  Orloff. 

Break  six  eggs,  beat  them,  and  add  a  little  fresh,  thick 
cream.  Cook  them  in  the  usual  way,  and  add  a  few  crayfishes' 
tails  for  every  four  eggs.  Dish  in  little  porcelain  cases,  place 
a  fine  slice  of  truffle  in  each  of  the  cases,  and  arrange  these 
on  a  napkin  and  dish  up  in  usual  way. 

Scrambled  Eggs  a  la  Piemontaise. 

Add  to  the  scrambled  eggs,  per  every  three  of  the  latter, 
one-half  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  raw  grated  truffles.  Dish  in  a  timbale,  and  garnish  with 
a  fine  crown  of  sliced  truffles. 

Scrambled  Eggs  a  la  Portugaise. 

Dish  the  eggs  in  a  timbale,  and  place  in  the  middle,  some 
fine,  concassed  tomatoes  seasoned  and  sauted  in  butter. 
Sprinkle  a  pinch  of  concassed  parsley  on  the  tomatoes,  and 
surround  with  a  thread  of  brown  sauce. 

Scrambled  Eggs  Rachel. 

Add  some  truffles,  cut  into  dice,  and  some  asparagus  cut 
up,  to  the  scrambled  eggs.  Dish  up  with  a  little  faggot  of 
asparagus-heads  in  the  middle,  and  a  thread  of  brown  sauce. 

Scrambled  Eggs  Margot. 

Prepare  the  scrambled  'eggs  in  the  usual  way,  and  finish 
them  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  almond  butter.  Place 
this  in  small  tartlet  crusts,  baked  without  coloration,  and  sur- 


218  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

round  the  tartlets  with  a  thread  of  Bechamel  sauce,  finished 
with  pistachio. 

Scrambled  Eggs  Rothschild. 

Finely  pound  the  remains  of  six  crayfish,  the  tails  of  which 
have  been  put  aside,  and  add  gradually,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  thick  cream.  Rub  through  sieve. 

Add  this  crayfish  cream  to  the  six  beaten  eggs;  season, 
and  cook  on  a  moderate  fire  with  the  object  of  obtaining  a 
smooth,  soft,  and  creamy  preparation.  Serve  in  a  timbale  and 
garnish,  with  a  small  faggot  of  asparagus-heads  placed  in  the 
middle  of  the  eggs,  with  crayfish  tails  arranged  in  a  circle 
round  the  asparagus,  and  with  large  slices  of  truffles  arranged 
in  a  crown. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Truffles. 

To  the  eggs  add  one  tablespoonful  of  truffles,  cooked  in 
Madeira  and  cut  into  dice.  Place  these  in  a  dish  and  garnish 
with  a  crown  of  sliced  truffles. 

Fried  Eggs. 

To  cook  these  eggs  properly,  only  one  should  be  dealt  with 
at  a  time. 

Heat  some  oil  in  an  omelette-pan  until  it  begins  to  smoke 
slightly;  break  the  egg  on  a  plate;  season  it  and  let  it  slide 
into  the  pan.  Then,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  quickly  cover  up 
the  yolk  with  the  solidified  portions  of  the  white,  in  order  to 
keep  the  former  soft. 

Drain  the  egg  on  a  piece  of  stretched  linen,  and  proceed 
in  the  same  way  with  the  other  eggs  until  the  required  quan- 
tity has  been  treated. 

Fried  Eggs  a  la  Bordelaise. 

Prepare  as  many  halved  tomatoes  as  there  are  eggs,  adding 
a  pinch  of  chopped  shallots  to  each  halved  tomato.  When 
cooked,  garnish  with  cepes,  finely  minced  and  sauted;  place 
a  fried  egg  on  each  garnished  half  tomato,  and  arrange  in 
a  circle  on  a  dish,  with  fried  parsley  in  the  middle. 

Fried  Eggs  a  la  Portugaise. 

Place  each  of  the  cooked  eggs  upon  a  half  tomato  d,  la 
Portugaise,  i.e.,  stuffed  with  rice  after  having  been  previously 
half-baked  in  the  oven.  Arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and 
garnish  the  center  with  concassed  tomatoes  and  sauted  in  but- 
ter. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  219 

Fried  Eggs  a  la  Provengale. 

Put  each  fried  egg  on  a  half  tomato  and  seasoned,  rolled 
in  flour,  and  fried  in  oil. 

Set  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  with  fried  parsley  in  the  center. 

Place  the  eggs,  fried  in  oil,  on  little  dish  of  spinach.  The 
preparation  of  spinach  should  have  anchovy  fillets  cut  into 
dice,  added  to  it,  and  a  few  chopped  olives. 

Fried  Eggs  a  la  Romaine. 

Place  the  eggs,  fried  in  oil,  on  a  little  dish  of  spinach.  The 
preparation  of  spinach  should  have  anchovy  fillets,  cut  into 
dice,  added  to  it,  and  a  few  chopped  olives. 

Omelettes. 

An  omelette  is  in  reality  scrambled  eggs  enclosed  in  a  coat 
composed  of  coagulated  egg,  the  seasoning  of  which  comprises 
a  small  pinch  of  table-salt  and  a  little  pepper,  and  which  re- 
quires one-half  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  cream 
for  its  preparation. 

To  Prepare. 

Heat  the  omelette-pan  until  nearly  a  brown  color.  This 
will  not  only  lend  an  exquisite  taste  to  the  omelette  but  will 
be  found  to  ensure  the  perfect  setting  of  the  eggs. 

Pour  in  the  beaten  and  seasoned  eggs,  and  stir  briskly  with 
a  fork,  in  order  to  heat  the  whole  mass  evenly.  If  the  omelette 
is  to  be  garnished  inside,  this  ought  to  be  done  at  the  present 
stage,  and  then  the  omelette  should  be  speedily  rolled  up  and 
transferred  to  a  dish,  to  be  finished  in  accordance  with  the 
nature  of  its  designation. 

Omelette  Charles  V. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  one  tablespoonful  of  mushrooms, 
minced  and  sauted  in  butter.  Roll  it  up,  and  transfer  it  to  a 
dish. 

Omelette  a  la  Bruxelloise. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  braised  endives 
shredded  and  thickened  with  cream.  Surround  with  a  thread 
of  white  sauce. 

Omelette  with  Cepes. 

Finely  mince  two  ounces  of  cepes;  toss  them  in  butter  in 
an  omlette-pan  until  they  have  acquired  a  brown  color;  add 
thereto  a  pinch  of  chopped  shallots,  and  toss  them  again  for  a 
moment. 


220  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Pour  the  'eggs  into  the  omelette-pan;  make  the  omelette; 
dish  up,  surround  with  a  thread  of  brown  sauce. 

Omelette  with  Mushrooms. 

Mince  two  ounces  of  raw  mushrooms;  toss  them  in  butter 
in  an  omelette-pan;  add  the  eggs  thereto,  and  make  the 
omelette.  Transfer  it  to  a  dish,  lay  three  little  cooked  and 
grooved  mushrooms  upon  it,  and  surround  with  a  thread  of 
meat  juice. 

Omelette  a  la  Choisy. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  one  tablespoonful  of  braised  lettuce 
shredded  and  mixed  with  Bechamel  sauce. 

Omelette  Princesse. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  cooked 
peas,  bound  with  butter.  Roll  and  dish  the  omelette,  making 
an  opening  lengthwise  in  the  center,  and  fill  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  fresh  peas. 

Omelette  with  Spinach. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  spinach  with 
cream,  and  surround  with  a  thread  of  white  sauce. 

Omelette  Fermiere. 

To  the  beaten  and  seasoned  eggs  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
very  lean,  cooked  ham  cut  into  dice.  Pour  the  eggs  into  the 
omelette-pan,  and  cook  them  quickly,  taking  care  to  keep 
them  very  soft.  Let  the  outside  harden  slightly;  tilt  into  the 
dish  after  the  manner  of  a  pancake,  and  besprinkle  the  surface 
with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley. 

Omelette  Aux  Fines  Herbes. 

Add    to    four    eggs    one    tablespoonful    of    parsley,    finely 
chopped. 
Make  the  omelette  in  the  usual  way. 

Omelette  with  Chicken's  Liver. 

Stuff  the  omelette  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chicken's  liver 
which  cut  into  dice  or  sliced,  seasoned  and  quickly  sauted  in 
butter,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  brown  sauce.  Dish  the 
omelette,  make  an  opening  lengthwise  in  the  center,  and  place 
therein  one  tablespoonful  of  chicken's  liver,  and  a  soupcon  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  surround  it  with  brown  sauce. 

Omelette  with  Artichoke  Bottoms. 
Finely  mince   four  small  cooked  artichoke  bottoms,  season 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  221 

them,  and  slightly  color  them  in  butter.     Add  the  beaten  and 
seasoned  eggs,  and  make  the  omelette  in  the  usual  way. 

Omelette  a  la  Lyonnaise. 

Take  an  onion  and  cook  it  with  butter  in  an  omelette-pan, 
but  not  to  color.  Add  the  eggs  with  which  a  pinch  of  chopped 
parsley  has  been  mixed,  and  make  the  omelette  in  the  usual 
way. 

Omelette  Mousseuse. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  a  small  pinch 
of  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  thick  cream.  Add 
thereto  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  four  whites, 
whisked  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  pour  this  preparation  into  a  wide 
omelette-pan  containing  two  ounces  of  very  hot  butter.  Saute 
the  omelette,  tossing  it  very  quickly  and  taking  care  to  turn 
the  outside  edges  of  the  preparation  constantly  towards  the 
center;  when  the  whole  mass  seems  uniformly  set,  roll  the 
omelette  up  quickly,  and  serve  at  once. 

Omelette  Parmentier. 

Add  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  to  four  eggs,  and  when  about 
to  pour  the  latter  into  the  omelette-pan,  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  potato  cut  into  dice,  seasoned,  sauted  in  butter  beforehand, 
and  very  hot.  Make  the  omelette  in  the  usual  way. 

Omelette  a  la  Paysanne. 

Fry  with  butter,  in  the  omelette-pan,  two  ounces  of  breast 
of  bacon  cut  into  dice.  Add  to  the  eggs  one  tablespoonful  of 
finely-sliced  potatoes  sauted  in  butter,  one-half  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  pinch  of  crushed  chervil. 

Pour  the  whole  over  the  bacon-dice;  cook  the  eggs  quickly, 
keeping  them  soft;  turn  the  omelette  after  the  manner  of  a 
pancake,  tilt  it  immediately  on  to  a  dish  and  serve  quickly. 

Omelette  with  Asparagus-Tops. 

Add  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  blanched  asparagus- 
tops,  stewed  in  butter,  to  the  omelette.  Dish  up  the  omelette, 
with  the  middle  open,  and  a  nice  little  faggot  of  asparagus- 
tops  in  the  interspace.  Serve  at  once. 

Omelette  a  la  Provengale. 

Rub  the  bottom  of  the  omelette-pan  lightly  with  shallots  or 
onions;  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  or  clarified  butter  into 
the  utensil,  and  heat  until  it  smokes. 

Throw  into  the  oil  a  fine,  peeled,  pressed,  and  pipped  tomato, 


222  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

cut  into  dice  and  besprinkled  with  a  pinch  of  concassed  pars- 
ley. Cook  quickly,  tossing  the  white,  and  add  it  to  the  beaten 
and  seasoned  eggs.  Make  the  omelette  in  the  usual  way. 

Omelette  with  Kidneys. 

Add  to  the  omelette  a  tablespoonful  of  calves'  or  sheep's 
kidney,  cut  into  dice,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  sauted 
quickly  in  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  brown  sauce.  Hav- 
ing dished  the  omelette  divide  down  the  middle,  lay  some  kid- 
ney-dice therein  and  surround  with  a  thread  of  good  sauce. 

Omelette  a  la  Rossini. 

Add  to  the  eggs  one  dessertspoonful  of  cooked  foie-gras  and 
as  much  truffle,  cut  into  small  dice.  Having  dished  the 
omelette,  place  in  the  middle  thereof  a  small  piece  of  heated 
foie-gras  and  six  slices  of  truffle  on  either  side  of  the  latter. 
Surround  it  with  a  thread  of  brown  sauce  flavored  with  truffle 
essence. 

Omelette  with  Truffles. 

Add  to  the  omelette  one  tablespoonful  of  truffles,  cut  into 
dice.  Make  the  omelette,  dish  it,  and  lay  a  row  of  fine  slices 
of  truffles  upon  it.  Surround  it  with  a  thread  of  brown  sauce. 

Cold  Eggs  a  1'Andalouse. 

Cover  six  cold,  well-dried  poached  eggs  with  a  tomato  puree 
mixed  with  a  third  of  its  volume  of  Soubise  puree  and  half 
pint  of  melted  aspic  jelly  per  pint  of  sauce.  Cut  some  pi- 
mentos, marinaded  in  oil,  into  very  thin  strips,  and  lay  these 
upon  each  egg. 

Garnish  as  many  oiled,  oval  tartlet  molds  as  there  are  eggs 
with  tomato  puree  thickened  with  jelly,  and  let  the  garnish  set 
on  ice.  Turn  out  the  molds,  and  put  an  egg  upon  each  of  the 
tomato  tartlets;  arrange  on  a  dish  surrounded  with  a  chain  of 
puff-paste  croutons  and  garnish  the  center  with  chopped  aspic 
jelly. 

Cold  Eggs  Argenteuil. 

Coat  some  six  well-dried,  soft-boiled  eggs,  slightly  cut  at 
their  base  to  make  them  stand,  with  a  chaud-froid  sauce  com- 
bined with  a  good  third  of  its  volume  of  asparagus-tops  puree. 
Sprinkle  with  cold,  melted  jelly,  until  a  glossy  coating  is  ob- 
tained. Brown  sauce  or  white  sauce  or  mayonnaise  can  be 
adopted  instead  of  the  jelly,  if  preferred. 

Eggs. 
Garnish  the   center  of  a  dish  with   a   salad  of  asparagus- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  223 

tops;  surround  this  with  fine  slices  of  cold  potato,  cut  up  with 
a  fancy-cutter  about  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  arrange  the 
eggs  all  round. 

Cold  Eggs  Capucin. 

Carefully  dry  six  cold,  poached  eggs,  and  half-coat  them 
lengthwise  with  a  white  chaud-froid  sauce;  complete  the  coat- 
ing on  the  other  side  with  a  smooth  puree  of  tomatoes  thick- 
ened with  jelly.  Leave  these  two  coats  to  set,  placing  the  eggs 
in  a  cool  place  or  on  ice  for  that  purpose. 

Garnish  the  center  of  a  round  dish  with  a  small  pyramid  of 
cold  salad  of  lobster,  and  place  the  eggs  round  the  latter. 

Cold  Eggs  Careme. 

Cook  six  eggs  on  a  china  dish,  leave  them  to  cool,  and  trim 
with  an  even  fancy-cutter,  round  in  shape.  Place  each  egg 
on  a  tartlet  crust,  garnished  with  dice  of  cooked  salmon, 
mixed  with  mayonnaise. 

Surround  with  a  caviare,  and  lay  a  thin  slice  of  truffle  on 
each  egg. 

Cold  Eggs   Colbert. 

Garnish  some  small  molds  in  any  design  according  to  taste. 
Put  a  small,  cold,  poached  egg  into  each  mold,  fill  up  with 
melted,  white  jelly,  and  leave  to  set.  Garnish  the  center  of 
a  dish  with  a  vegetable  salad;  arrange  the  eggs  taken  from 
their  molds  around  this,  and  surround  with  a  little  chopped 
jelly  and  quarters  of  yolk  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Cold  Eggs. 

Let  a  thin  coat  of  jelly  set  upon  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
some  small,  oval  molds.  Garnish  the  latter  to  any  fancy  de- 
sign; now  insert  a  very  small,  cold,  poached  egg  into  each 
mold,  and  fill  up  with  a  melted  jelly. 

Garnish  the  center  of  a  dish  with  a  vegetable  salad,  encircled 
by  sliced,  cold  potatoes,  place  the  eggs,  removed  from  their 
molds,  all  round.  Border  with  jelly. 

Cold  Eggs,  Frou-Frou. 

Poach  six  eggs  of  equal  size,  cover  them  with  a  white  chaud- 
froid  sauce  or  mayonnaise  combined  with  about  a  third  of  its 
volume  of  a  puree  of  hard-boiled  egg-yolks. 

Garnish  the  top  of  each  egg  with  a  slice  of  truffle,  and  sur- 
round the  base  of  the  eggs  with  a  narrow  ribbon  of  ox  tongue 
cut  very  thin.  Glaze  with  jelly,  and  leave  to  set  on  ice. 

Prepare   a   salad  of  green  vegetables    (peas,   French  beans 


224  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

cut  into  dice  or  lozenges,  asparagus-tops)  and  thicken  with  a 
very  little  mayonnaise  mixed  with  melted  jelly.  For  dishing 
up  place  the  salad  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  and  surround  the 
base  with  a  line  of  chopped  jelly. 

Cold  Eggs  a  la  Neva. 

Cut  off  the  ends  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs.  Surround  the 
tops  and  the  bases  with  little  anchovy  fillets,  and  place  a  little 
caviare  half-way  along  each  egg.  Eggs  prepared  in  this  way 
resemble  little  barrels  of  the  anchovy  fillets  representing  the 
iron  hoops,  and  the  bits  of  caviare  the  bungs.  By  means  of  a 
scraper  empty  the  eggs  with  care;  garnish  them  with  truffle 
mayonnaise. 

Place  each  egg  in  an  artichoke-bottom,  garnished  with  finely- 
chopped  jelly,  and  arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  with  chopped 
jelly. 

Cold  Eggs  a  la  Reine. 

Prepare  six  soft-boiled  eggs  to  cool.  Make  as  many  crou- 
stades  of  potatoes  as  there  are  eggs.  Garnish  the  bottom  and 
the  sides  of  these  croustades  with  a  fine  mince  of  chicken- 
meat,  thickened  with  mayonnaise,  and  season  moderately. 
Place  a  shelled  soft-boiled  egg  in  each  croustade;  coat  thinly 
with  mayonnaise  slightly  thickened  by  means  of  one  sheet  of 
gelatine;  lay  a  piece  of  truffle  on  each  egg,  and  when  the  sauce 
has  set,  glaze  with  jelly,  using  a  fine  brush  for  the  purpose. 
Dish  up  on  a  napkin  decorated  to  taste. 

Cold  Eggs  Deutschland. 

Season  some  cooked  young  shoots  of  hops  with  salt  and 
pepper;  add  thereto  some  chopped  parsley,  and  chervil,  and  a 
puree  of  plainly-cooked  tomatoes  mixed  with  jelly.  Mold  in 
oiled  tartlet  molds,  and  serve  on  glass  dish  with  a  salad  of 
hop  shoots  garnished  with  chopped  aspic  jelly. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  225 


JOINTS. 

Hints  About  Roasting  Meat, 

It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  during  the  hot  weather  meat 
can  only  be  kept  for  a  short  time,  and  freshly-killed  meat  re- 
quires longer  to  roast  than  meat  which  is  well  hung.  The 
usual  time  allowed  for  a  joint  of  mutton  and  beef,  when  meat 
is  preferred  somewhat  underdone,  is  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for 
each  pound  of  meat  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  besides,  in  a 
good  steady  oven.  But  when  meat  is  liked  well  done  and  also 
in  the  case  of  a  solid  piece  of  meat  which  has  been  freed  from 
bone,  such  as  a  rolled  rib  of  beef,  or  the  top-side  of  the  round, 
twenty  minutes  to  every  pound  of  weight  will  not  be  too  much 
time  to  allow.  When  the  meat  is  cooked  in  the  oven  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  put  a  salt  jar  containing  boiling  water  into  the 
oven  when  the  meat  is  put  in;  the  steam  which  is  given  off  will 
prevent  the  meat  from  becoming  too  dry  and  the  objectionable 
odor  of  burnt  fat,  which  too  often  pervades  the  house,  will  be 
prevented.  If  the  water  is  not  exhausted  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  before  the  joint  is  ready,  it  should  be  taken  out  of 
the  oven  so  that  the  meat  is  nicely  browned. 

To  Roast  a  Fowl. 

Choose  a  nice  fresh  fowl  and  wipe  it  well  all  over  with  a 
cloth  wrung  out  of  borax  and  water;  dry  it  thoroughly  and 
rub  it  over  with  dripping  and  place  a  small  piece  the  size  of  a 
walnut  inside  the  bird  and  also  a  small  onion,  with  two  cloves 
stuck  in  it,  which  will  improve  the  flavor.  Place  the  fowl  in  a 
baking-tin  and  surround  it  with  plenty  of  dripping  and  put  it 
into  a  well-heated  oven  and  baste  it  with  plenty  of  dripping, 
and  do  this  frequently  during  the  process  of  cooking,  as  it 
cannot  be  kept  too  moist.  The  bird,  if  very  young,  should  take 
about  forty  minutes  to  cook,  but  an  hour,  or  even  longer, 
should  be  allowed  for  a  fair-sized  bird.  About  ten  minutes 
before  taking  the  bird  from  the  oven  it  should  be  lightly 
dredged  with  flour,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  basted  with  melted 
butter  or  dripping  to  produce  the  brown  blistered  appearance 
which  is  usually  seen  on  a  fowl  prepared  in  this  way.  Melted 


226  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

butter  is  preferred  to  dripping  in  that  it  froths  in  a  way  in 
which  dripping  does  not  and  consequently  produces  a  better 
result.  Should  the  heat  of  the  oven  be  really  hot  at  first,  the 
temperature  may  be  slightly  reduced  after  a  little  and  kept  at 
a  steady  heat  until  the  bird  is  done. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef. 

Procure  from  your  butcher  about  five  pounds  of  silverside 
of  beef  which  has  been  in  brine  for  about  twelve  days.  Wash 
the  meat,  trim  off  any  superfluous  fat,  and  rub  it  over  on  the 
inside  with  a  seasoning  composed  of  half  an  ounce  of  black 
pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  half  an  ounce  of  ground 
cloves,  unless  the  flavor  of  spices  is  objected  to,  when  they 
should  be  omitted.  Then  roll  up  the  meat  and  tie  it  into  shape, 
and  wrap  it  in  a  cloth.  Put  the  meat  into  a  saucepan  with 
plenty  of  tepid  water;  when  it  boils  remove  the  scum,  and  add 
carrots,  turnip,  onion,  and  celery  seed  and  twelve  whole  pep- 
pers tied  together  in  muslin.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  the 
meat  simmer  very  slowly  for  five  hours.  If  it  is  to  be  served 
cold,  leave  it  in  the  saucepan  until  the  liquor  in  which  it  is 
cooked  is  cold,  then  take  it  up,  tighten  the  cloth,  and  place  it 
between  two  baking-sheets  with  weights  on  the  top,  and  let  it 
remain  all  night.  The  following  morning  remove  the  cloth, 
wipe  the  meat  thoroughly,  trim  and  coat  it  with  glaze,  brush- 
ing it  over  several  times.  For  the  glaze,  soak  an  ounce  of 
gelatine  in  a  gill  of  cold  water,  then  let  it  dissolve  in  a  small 
saucepan  with  a  gill  of  boiling  water  and  add  sufficient  Parisian 
essence  to  make  the  mixture  a  rich  but  not  too  dark  brown. 
Pour  the  glaze  into  a  bowl,  and  use  it  before  it  gets  cold. 

Savory  Round  of  Beef. 

Three  or  four  pounds  of  the  top-side  of  the  round  of  beef 
should  be  rolled  into  a  compact  little  round  by  the  butcher; 
after  washing  and  drying  it,  proceed  to  insert  little  pieces  of 
bacon  all  over  it  at  intervals  in  the  following  manner:  —  Cut 
some  fat  bacon  into  strips  measuring  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  width  and  four  inches  in  length;  pierce  a  hole  in  the 
lean  portion  of  the  beef  with  a  sharply-pointed  wooden  skewer 
and  fill  this  hole  with  a  strip  of  bacon;  make  another  hole  two 
or  three  inches  away  and  fill  this  in  the  same  way  and  so  on 
until  about  eight  strips  of  bacon  have  been  used.  Season  the 
meat  with  salt  and  pepper  and  roast  it  in  a  well-heated  oven 
in  the  usual  manner,  basting  it  frequently  until  it  is  done. 
This  joint  is  equally  nice  hot  or  cold. 


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STANDARD  COOKERY.  227 

Stuffed  Loin  of  Lamb. 

Have  the  bones  removed  from  a  loin  of  lamb  (about  three 
to  four  pounds  in  weight)  ;  wash  the  meat  and  dry  it  well,  and 
flour  and  salt.  Make  a  forcemeat  according  to  the  recipe 
given  below,  and  spread  it  evenly  over  the  meat,  then  roll  it 
up  tightly,  tie  it  with  narrow  tape  at  each  end,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle, and  roast  it,  basting  it  frequently,  until  it  is  thoroughly 
cooked.  The  appearance  of  the  meat  will  be  much  improved 
if  it  is  glazed  after  it  has  been  allowed  to  get  cold.  For  the 
forcemeat  take  the  contents  of  a  small  can  of  button  mush- 
rooms, drain  them  from  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  pre- 
served, and  chop  them  up  into  small  pieces;  pour  half  the 
mushroom  liquor  into  a  bowl  containing  the  breadcrumbs,  add 
the  chopped  mushrooms,  veal  (or  beef)  suet,  three  ounces  of 
bacon,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  mint,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  a  quarter  of  a  grated  lemon  and  an  onion, 
season  well  with  celery  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  grated 
nutmeg;  moisten  the  mixture  with  the  egg  and  a  little  milk,  if 
necessary,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  is  an  excellent  cold 
dish,  but  it  may  be  served  hot,  surrounded  by  clear  gravy. 

Baked  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Boil  two  or  three  cloves  of  garlic  in  three  different  waters 
in  order  to  remove  the  pungent  flavor,  and  then  mince  them 
finely  with  half  a  dozen  boned  anchovies.  Take  a  small  leg 
of  mutton,  cut  numerous  slits  across  the  skin  and  well  rub  the 
garlic  and  anchovy  mixture  into  these  slits.  Cover  the  leg  of 
mutton  as  thickly  as  possible  with  breadcrumbs  and  put  it  into 
a  baking-pan  with  half  a  pint  of  clear  stock.  Let  it  bake  from 
an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  according  to  size,  basting  it 
from  time  to  time  with  the  sauce. 

The  joint  should  be  served  on  a  dish  surrounded  with  a 
border  of  mixed  vegetables  or  macaroni. 

Larded  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Carefully  raise  and  turn  back  the  skin  of  a  small  leg  of 
mutton,  being  careful  not  to  tear  it.  Then  lard  the  joint  all 
over  with  fine  strips  of  celery  previously  half  cooked  in  a  little 
stock,  strips  of  cucumbers,  a  few  branches  of  tarragon,  and 
some  strips  of  fat  bacon.  Cover  the  whole  rather  thickly  with 
a  mixture  of  minced  anchovies  and  minced  herbs,  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Now  replace  the  skin  and  carefully  sew  it  to  the 
joint  so  as  to  cover  over  the  larded  surface.  Roast  the  whole 
on  a  spit  before  an  open  fire  and  serve  with  its  gravy. 


228  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Baked  Fillet  of  Veal. 

Line  a  baking-dish  with  strips  of  bacon  and  cover  with  a 
layer  of  carrots,  onions,  and  turnips  sliced,  an  ounce  of  minced 
ham,  and  a  little  parsley,  and  two  or  three  cloves.  Sprinkle 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  clear 
stock.  Place  upon  these  a  fillet  of  veal  four  inches  thick,  cut 
so  as  to  just  fit  the  dish.  Cover  closely  and  bake  until  tender, 
basting  it  frequently.  The  gravy,  strained  and  thickened  with 
flour,  should  be  served  in  the  same  dish  with  tomatoes  and 
fried  potatoes. 

Rolled  Veal. 

Put  a  pint  of  white  stock  (or  water)  into  a  saucepan  with 
an  onion  in  which  two  cloves  have  been  stuck,  a  blade  of  mace, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour. 
Melt  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  stir  in  gradually  two 
large  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  it  is  well  mixed  add 
the  stock  by  degrees;  let  it  boil  up  and  simmer  for  five  min- 
utes, then  pour  in  sufficient  milk  to  make  the  sauce  white  and 
slightly  thinner;  strain  it  and  put  it  aside  until  it  is  required. 
Spread  about  two  pounds  of  fillet  of  veal  out  on  a  board,  and 
cover  it  with  a  layer  of  sausage-meat,  then  roll  it  up,  secure 
it  with  tape  and  fry  it  for  ten  minutes  in  a  small  quantity  of 
clarified  dripping  without  letting  it  acquire  any  color.  Then 
place  it  in  a  stewpan,  cover  it  with  the  prepared  sauce  and  let 
it  cook  gently  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  three  hours.  Re- 
move the  tape  when  the  meat  is  ready,  and  place  it  on  a  hot 
dish;  add  a  dessertspoonful  of  parsley  to  the  sauce  and  pour 
it  over  the  veal. 

Stuffed  Breast  of  Veal. 

Remove  the  bones  from  a  breast  of  veal  and  spread  the 
meat  on  a  board;  flatten  it  out  with  a  rolling-pin  and  cover 
it  with  a  thick  layer  of  sausage  meat,  mixed  with  some  bread- 
crumbs, herbs  and  sufficient  beaten  egg  to  bind  it.  Then  roll 
up  the  meat,  tie  it  with  white  string  or  narrow  tape  and  bake 
it  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  it  frequently.  Remove  the 
string  from  the  veal,  dish  it  up  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with 
lemon  cut  into  fancy  shapes,  and  surround  it  with  some  thick 
brown  sauce.  The  meat  is  equally  nice  cold. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

ROAST. 

Sirloin,  Ribs,  or  Round  of  Beef. 
Well  grease  with  dripping  (but  this  is  not  absolutely  neces- 


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STANDARD  COOKERY.  229 

sary).  Put  the  joint  in  a  bag.  Do  not  season  the  joint  be- 
fore cooking.  Put  the  joint  on  a  grid  in  a  moderate  oven 
(300°  Fahr.). 

For  a  three-pound  joint  allow  forty-five  minutes;  seven 
pound,  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes;  fourteen  pound,  two 
hours  and  fifteen  minutes;  twenty  pound,  three  hours. 

Veal,  Mutton  or  Pork 

can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way  as  beef.  If  a  thick  gravy  is 
required  roll  the  joint  in  flour  before  placing  it  in  the  paper 
bag.  Allow  the  same  time  as  for  beef. 

Venison. 

Trim  the  joint  of  all  skin  and  nerves.  Roll  in  flour,  cover 
the  joint  with  fat  ham,  bacon,  or  dripping.  Well  season,  ac- 
cording to  taste;  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine  (if  desired). 
Seal  joint  in  bag;  allow  plenty  of  space  in  the  oven.  Allow 
for  joint  of  three  pounds,  one  and  a  quarter  hours;  seven 
pounds,  two  and  a  half  hours;  fourteen  or  fifteen  pounds,  four 
hours.  This  must  be  cooked  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Venison  Sauce. 

The  natural  juice  from  the  cooking  is  strained  into  a  stew- 
pan.  Take  off  all  fatty  matter.  It  can  be  thickened  with  a 
little  flour,  cornflour,  or  arrowroot,  by  mixing  a  teaspoonful 
of  either  with  one  glass  of  port  wine,  sherry,  Madeira,  stock, 
or  water.  Mix  up  with  the  juice.  Bring  to  the  boil,  add 
lemon  juice  or  any  condiment,  according  to  taste. 


230  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


SWEETS  AND  PASTRY. 

PASTRY. 

Pastry  is  one  of  the  most  important  branches  of  culinary 
science,  and  possibly  one  of  the  oldest,  for  at  a  very  early 
period  the  Orientals  understood  the  art  of  utilizing  flour  for 
this  purpose.  In  its  primitive  form  pastry  was  simply  a  mix- 
ture of  flour,  oil  and  honey;  and  it  appears  to  have  been  con- 
fined to  these  substances  for  centuries,  even  among  the  south- 
ern nations  of  the  European  continent.  At  the  commencement 
of  the  middle  ages  a  change  began  to  take  place;  butter  fre- 
quently replaced  the  oil,  salt  was  used  as  a  flavoring  ingredient, 
and  the  qualities  of  richness  and  lightness  which  are  imparted 
by  eggs  had  been  discovered.  The  next  step  was  to  use  paste 
as  an  enclosure  for  meat,  and  when  this  advance  was  made, 
its  use  in  combination  with  fruit,  cream,  etc.,  followed  as  a 
matter  of  course.  The  art  advanced  step  by  step  until  the 
middle  of  the  nineteeth  century,  the  dinner  tables  of  the  in- 
tervening period  having  afforded  considerable  scope  for  the 
display  of  constructive  and  decorative  skill.  Since  the  dinner 
a  la  Russe  banished  almost  everything  of  an  edible  nature  from 
the  table,  any  talent  in  this  direction  has  been  chiefly  expended 
on  small  pastries,  which,  if  less  imposing  in  structure  than  those 
of  past  ages,  afford  a  wide  field  for  ingenuity,  taste  and  manipu- 
lative skill. 

The  recipes  on  the  following  pages  comprise  what  may  be 
termed  standard  pastes,  and  also  their  many  variations.  Nu- 
merous illustrations  are  given  of  the  methods  in  which  the 
respective  preparations  may  be  utilized  for  pies,  tarts,  tartlets, 
etc.,  with  directions  for  compounding  the  mixtures  employed 
for  filling  such  pastry. 

Pastry  Making. 

The  quality  especially  to  be  desired  in  pastry  is  lightness, 
and  this  depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  amount  of  cold  air 
in  the  pastry  when  expansion  takes  place  in  the  oven.  The 
best  pastry  is  therefore  that  which  contains  the  greatest  quan- 
tity of  the  coldest  air  prior  to  baking.  The  repeated  foldings 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  231 

and  rollings  to  which  puff  paste  is  subjected  have  this  in- 
crease of  air  in  view;  while  in  short  crust  the  expansion  is 
aided  by  adding  baking-powder,  or  other  acid,  and  alkaline 
substances,  which,  when  moistened,  combine  to  form  a  con- 
stituent identical  in  its  composition  and  effect  with  that  of  the 
atmospheric  air  to  which  puff  entirely  owes  its  lightness.  The 
difference  between  puff,  or  flaky,  and  short  crust  is  that  in  the 
former  there  are  thin  layers  of  air  and  pastry  alternating,  and 
in  the  latter  the  air  fills  small  cavities  all  over  the  paste. 

Puff  Paste 

usually  consists  of  flour  and  butter  in  equal  proportions,  but 
in  short  crust  the  proportions  of  fat  and  flour  vary,  and  may 
be  one-fourth  for  an  economical  paste,  or  three-fourths  for  a 
rich  short  crust.  For  ordinary  purposes  one-half  pound  of 
butter  or  fat  to  each  pound  of  flour,  will,  with  the  addition  of 
a  good  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  make  a  sufficiently  rich 
crust.  Fine  starchy  flour  makes  the  lightest  pastry,  the  larger 
proportion  of  gluten  in  household  flour  —  although  exceedingly 
valuable  from  a  dietetic  point  of  view  —  tends  to  make  pastry 
tough.  Flour  should  always  be  stored  in  a  cool,  perfectly  dry 
place.  By  sifting  it  before  use,  air  is  introduced,  and  if  there 
are  any  lumps  these  may  be  rubbed  out,  with  the  result  that 
the  pastry  will  be  lighter.  When  baking-powder  is  used  it 
should  be  sieved  with  the  flour,  as  this  ensures  its  even  distri- 
bution. 

The  amount  of  liquid  required  to  moisten  a  given  quantity 
of  flour  varies  within  narrow  limits,  but  it  may  be  approxi- 
mately stated  as  being  one-half  to  that  of  the  flour.  As  a  rule 
one  pound  of  flour  will  need  about  one-half  pint  of  water, 
but  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  addition  of  eggs,  or  when 
the  fat  has  been  reduced  to  a  semi-liquid  condition  by  undue 
friction,  or  prolonged  contact  with  hot  hands.  The  consistency 
of  the  butter  determines  the  amount  of  water  to  be  added  to 
puff  paste;  when  the  butter  is  soft  the  paste  must  be  equally 
so,  otherwise  it  is  impossible  to  keep  the  layers  separate,  and 
thus  the  paste  is  deprived  of  some  of  its  flakiness.  Rich  short 
crust  is  lighter  and  more  crumbly  when  made  very  stiff,  but 
unless  plain  short  crust  is  sufficiently  moistened  it  is  hard  and 
tough.  Lemon  juice,  like  other  acids,  tends  to  make  pastry 
lighter. 

Butter  and  Fat 
The   butter   used    for   making   pastry   should   be    good   and 


232  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

sweet,  for  nothing  imparts  its  own  unpleasant  flavor  to  every- 
thing it  comes  in  contact  with  more  decidedly  than  inferior 
butter.  Salt  butter  is  not  objectionable,  if  before  being  used 
it  is  well  washed,  and  afterwards  squeezed  in  a  floured  cloth 
to  free  it  from  moisture.  Rancid  butter  may  have  some  of  its 
disagreeable  flavor  removed  by  kneading  it  first  in  new  milk 
and  afterwards  in  water.  For  ordinary  pastry  clarified  fat 
may  be  recommended  in  preference  to  lard  or  dripping,  for  it 
is  entirely  free  from  the  fatty  taste  which  characterizes  the 
purest  home-made  lard,  while  that  bought  ready  prepared  is 
frequently  adulterated,  and  moreover,  has  occasionally  a  strong, 
unpleasant  taste.  The  objectionable  characteristic  flavor  of 
dripping  may  be  in  some  measure  removed  by  creaming  it, 
that  is  beating  it  with  a  knife  On  a  plate,  and  raising  it  well 
with  every  movement  of  the  hand,  so  as  to  subject  every  part 
to  the  purifying  influence  of  the  atmosphere. 

Manipulation. 

The  fat  should  be  lightly,  but  very  thoroughly,  rubbed  in 
with  the  tips  of  the  fingers,  never  with  the  palms  of  the  hands. 
The  water  should  be  added  gradually  but  quickly,  to  prevent 
hard  lumps  being  formed,  and  to  keep  the  consistence  of  the 
whole  mass  uniform.  A  knife  should  always  be  used  for 
mixing,  it  being  so  much  cooler  than  the  hand.  Some  little 
practice  is  necessary  to  acquire  the  light,  firm,  even  pressure 
and  dexterous  movements  upon  which  success  so  largely  de- 
pends. Paste  should  never  be  rolled  backwards  and  forwards, 
but  in  short  forward  rolls,  lifting  the  rolling-pin  between  the 
rolls.  Puff  paste  should  never  be  rolled  off  the  edges,  as  this 
may  force  out  some  of  the  air;  it  is  better  to  thin  the  edges 
by  a  little  pressure,  or  an  inward  roll. 

Puff  Paste 

is  allowed  to  stand  between  the  turns  in  order  that  the  butter 
may  harden,  and  thus  keep  the  layers  of  paste  and  butter 
separate.  Paste  to  which  baking-powder  has  been  added 
should  be  put  into  the  oven  as  speedily  as  possible,  otherwise 
some  of  the  effect  of  the  baking-powder  is  wasted,  its  action 
beginning  immediately  the  paste  is  moistened. 

Baking. 

All  kinds  of  pastry  should  be  baked  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven,  for  a  high  temperature  is  necessary  to  expand  the  air 
or  gas,  and  thus  make  the  pastry  light,  and  also  to  burst  the 
grains  of  the  flour,  thereby  enabling  these  to  absorb  the  fat 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  233 

immediately  it  melts.  Unless  the  heat  is  sufficiently  great  to 
act  upon  the  flour  in  this  manner,  the  melted  fat  runs  out  and 
leaves  the  paste  less  rich,  and  also,  probably,  both  heavy  and 
tough.  An  oven  with  a  good  bottom  heat  is  desirable  for 
baking  tarts  and  tartlets;  when  heated  from  above  it  is  ad- 
visable to  bake,  or  partially  bake,  the  tarts  before  filling  them. 

PASTE,  CRUST,  ETC. 
Batter  for  Frying. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  butter 
(melted),  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  four 
whites  of  eggs,  two  good  pinches  of  salt,  one-eighth  of  a  pint 
of  warm  water  (about). 

METHOD. —  Sieve  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  add  the  salt,  yolks 
of  egg,  butter  and  cream,  and  stir  until  smooth,  adding  the 
water  gradually.  Beat  well,  put  aside  for  at  least  half  an 
hour,  then  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  previously  stiffly  whipped, 
and  use  as  required. 

Batter  for  Frying. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  or  oiled  butter,  four  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  eggs,  two  good  pinches  of  salt,  one-half  a  pint  of 
warm  water  (about). 

METHOD. —  Sieve  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  add  the  salt  and  salad 
oil,  stir  gently,  adding  the  water  gradually  until  the  batter  is 
sufficiently  liquid  to  offer  little  resistance  to  the  spoon,  then 
beat  well  for  ten  minutes.  Put  aside  for  about  half  an  hour, 
add  warm  water  until  the  batter  has  the  consistency  of  good 
single  cream,  then  stir  in  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs, 
and  use  as  required. 

Brioche  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of  butter, 
one  ounce  of  yeast,  four  large  or  six  small  eggs,  one-half  of  a 
gill  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  yeast  with  a  little  tepid  water,  stir  in 
sufficient  flour  to  form  a  stiff  batter,  and  let  it  stand  for  one 
hour  in  a  warm  place.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a 
bowl,  add  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  the  beaten  egg.  Warm  the 
milk,  melt  the  butter,  add  gradually  to  the  yeast,  etc.,  then 
mix  together  the  contents  of  the  two  bowls,  and  knead  well 
for  at  least  fifteen  minutes.  Cover,  let  it  remain  in  a  mod- 
erately cool  place  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  shape  or  mold  as 
desired,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 


234  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Choux  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  fine  flour,  eight  ounces  of 
butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  four  large  or  six  small  eggs,  one 
pint  of  water,  salt,  vanilla  essence  or  other  flavoring. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  water,  butter,  sugar,  and  two  good 
pinches  of  salt  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  add  the  flour, 
previously  well  dried  and  sieved,  and  stir  and  cook  gently  for 
at  least  ten  minutes.  Let  it  cool  a  little,  then  beat  in  the  eggs 
one  at  a  time,  add  a  few  drops  of  the' flavoring  ingredient  and 
use  as  required. 

Dripping  Crust.     (For  Plain  Pies  and  Puddings.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of  clari- 
fied dripping,  one  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  With  a  knife  mix  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste, 
adding  the  water  gradually.  Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  two- 
sixths  of  the  dripping  over  it  in  small  pieces,  and  fold  over. 
Repeat  this  process  twice,  using  two-sixths  of  fat  each  time, 
and  use  as  required. 

Flaky  Paste.     (For  Pies,  Tarts  and  Tartlets.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty-four  ounces  of  flour,  eighteen 
ounces  of  butter  (or  butter  and  lard  mixed),  one-half  pint  of 
water  (about). 

METHOD. —  Sieve  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  and  rub  in  lightly 
two-sixths  of  the  butter.  Add  the  water  and  mix  into  a 
smooth  paste,  more  or  less  moist,  according  to  the  consistency 
of  the  butter,  with  which  it  must  agree  in  this  respect;  roll  it 
out  into  a  long,  narrow  strip.  Divide  the  remainder  of  the 
butter  into  three  equal  portions;  put  one  portion  on  the  paste 
in  small  pieces,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  fold  it  evenly  in 
three,  turn  it  round  so  as  to  have  the  folded  edges  to  the 
right  and  left  when  rolling,  press  the  edges  lightly  with  the 
rolling-pin,  to  prevent  the  air  escaping,  and  roll  out  as  before. 
Repeat  this  process  with  the  other  portions  of  butter.  The 
pastry  may  be  used  at  once,  but  it  will  be  lighter  if  allowed 
to  stand  for  one  hour  in  a  cool  place  before  being  used.  In 
making-up,  handle  as  lightly,  and  roll  as  evenly,  as  possible. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven,  and  avoid  opening  the  oven  door  until  the 
pastry  has  risen  and  become  partially  baked. 

Flead  Crust. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two   pounds   of   flour,   one   pound   of  flead 
(the  leaf  or  pork  from  which  lard  is  made),  two  teaspoonfuls 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  235 

of  baking-powder,  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  pint 
of  cold  water. 

METHOD. —  Remove  any  skin  there  may  be,  and  slice  the 
flead  into  thin  flakes,  and  mix  it  with  the  flour  on  the  paste- 
board. Roll  it  lightly  with  the  rolling-pin.  Place  in  a  bowl, 
add  the  baking-powder,  salt,  and  sufficient  cold  water  to  form 
a  fairly  stiff  paste.  Roll  out,  and  use  for  meat-pies,  etc. 

French  Crust  or  Pate  Brisee. 

INGREDIENTS. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of  but- 
ter, four  eggs,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  pint  of  water 
(about). 

METHOD. —  Sieve  the  flour,  add  the  salt,  rub  the  butter 
lightly  in,  and  mix  into  a  smooth  paste  with  the  eggs  and 
water,  adding  the  latter  gradually,  as  the  paste  must  be  very 
firm. 

French  Puff  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  good  butter,  two  pounds  of 
flour,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  about 
one-half  a  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Remove  as  much  moisture  as  possible  from  the 
butter  by  squeezing  it  well  in  a  dry  cloth.  Put  four  ounces 
aside,  form  the  remainder  into  a  ball,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 
Sieve  the  flour,  rub  in  the  four  ounces  of  butter,  add  the  salt, 
and  moisten  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  water,  adding  the 
latter  gradually,  until  the  right  consistency  is  obtained. 
Knead  quickly  and  lightly  until  smooth,  then  roll  out  to  the 
thickness  of  about  one-half  an  inch.  Enfold  the  ball  of  butter 
in  the  paste,  press  lightly  with  the  rolling-pin  until  the  butter 
is  flattened,  and  afterwards  roll  out  as  thinly  as  possible  with- 
out allowing  the  butter  to  break  through.  Fold  the  paste  in 
three,  roll  out  thinly  as  before,  again  fold  in  three,  and  put  it 
aside.  Except  in  very  hot  weather,  the  paste  will  become  suffi- 
ciently cool  and  firm  in  about  twenty  minutes,  when  it  should 
be  rolled  out  twice,  and  again  put  aside  in  a  cold  place  for 
about  twenty  minutes  before  receiving  its  fifth  and  sixth  turns. 
After  the  sixth  turn  the  paste  is  ready  for  use,  and  may  be 
converted  into  tartlets,  patties,  vol-au-vent,  etc.,  particulars  of 
which  will  be  found  under  respective  headings. 

Genoese  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six    ounces    of   fine    flour,    eight    ounces   of 
castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  ten  eggs. 
METHOD. —  Dry  and  sieve  the  flour,  separate  the  whites  of 


236  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  to  the  latter  add  the  sugar,  work 
vigorously  until  it  has  a  thick  creamy  appearance,  then  stir 
in  the  butter  (melted).  Whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir 
in  the  flour,  then  mix  lightly,  but  thoroughly,  with  the  con- 
tents of  the  other  bowl.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  papered 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Genoese  Pastry. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  ounces  of  fine  flour,  six  ounces  of  but- 
ter, eight  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  eight  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  add  the  sugar,  place 
the  bowl  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  whisk  until 
lukewarm.  Now  remove  the  bowl  and  continue  the  whisking 
until  the  mixture  becomes  thick  and  creamy,  then  add  the  but- 
ter (melted)  and  stir  in  the  previously  sifted  flour,  as  lightly 
as  possible.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered  papered  tin,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Neapolitan  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty  ounces  of  flour,  sixteen  ounces  of 
castor  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  butter,  twelve  ounces  of  sweet 
almonds,  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds,  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs, 
the  finely-grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Blanch  and  pound  the  almonds  to  a  smooth 
paste,  moistening  from  time  to  time  with  a  little  cold  water  to 
prevent  them  oiling.  Add  the  flour,  sugar,  butter,  lemon  rind, 
and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Work 
into  a  smooth  paste,  put  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  about  one 
and  a  half  hours,  then  roll  out  rather  thinly,  and  cut  into 
squares  or  rounds.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Pancake  Batter. 
See  Batter  for  Frying. 
See  Yorkshire  Pudding. 

Paste  for  Raised  Pies. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of  lard, 
one-half  a  pint  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  flour  and  salt  into  a  warm  bowl,  and  let 
it  stand  near  the  fire  until  it  feels  dry  and  warm.  Boil  the 
lard  and  water  for  five  minutes,  then  pour  the  mixture  into  the 
center  of  the  flour,  and  mix  well  with  a  spoon  until  cool  enough 
to  knead  with  the  hands.  Knead  well,  keeping  it  warm  during 
the  process,  let  it  remain  near  the  fire  for  about  one  hour, 
then  re-knead  and  use  at  once. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  237 

Throughout  the  processes  of  mixing,  kneading  and  molding, 
the  paste  must  be  kept  warm,  otherwise  molding  will  be  ex- 
tremely difficult.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  paste  be  too  warm, 
it  will  be  so  soft  and  pliable  that  it  cannot  retain  its  shape,  or 
support  its  own  weight.  Fine  flour  is  not  to  be  recommended 
for  this  purpose,  for  it  is  deficient  in  gluten,  a  sticky  tenacious 
substance  which  greatly  increases  the  adhesive  properties  of 
the  paste,  and  so  makes  it  easier  to  mold. 

Paste,  Transparent. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour  (dry  and  sifted),  six- 
eighths  of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Wash  the  butter  in  two  or  three  waters,  and  af- 
terwards remove  as  much  moisture  as  possible  by  means  of  a 
dry  cloth.  Melt  the  butter  over  a  gentle  fire,  let  it  remain  until 
nearly  cold,  then  stir  in  the  flour  and  egg.  Knead  lightly  until 
smooth,  roll  out  very  thinly,  and  use  for  tartlets,  etc. 

Paste,  to  Keep. 

Paste  not,  intended  for  immediate  use  should  be  enfolded  in 
grease-proof  or  slightly-buttered  paper,  and  kept  in  a  cool 
place. 

Potato  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  dry  floury  potato,  two  pounds 
of  flour,  four  ounces  each  of  lard  and  dripping,  two  eggs,  a 
little  warm  milk,  two  good  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  two 
good  pinches  of  salt. 

METHOD. —  Bake  enough  potatoes  (in  their  skins),  to  yield 
two  pounds  of  potato,  which  mash  smoothly  or  pass  through  a 
sieve.  Rub  the  lard  and  dripping  lightly  into  the  flour,  add 
the  potato,  baking-powder  and  salt,  and  stir  in  the  egg  and 
enough  milk  to  form  a  smooth  paste.  Roll  out  to  about  one 
inch  in  thickness,  cut  into  rounds  or  squares,  place  in  a  greased 
tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  turning  two  or  three  times 
during  the  process,  that  both  sides  may  be  equally  browned. 
Split,  butter  liberally  and  serve  at  once. 

Potato  Paste,  German  (To  Serve  with  Game  or  Poultry). 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  pounds  of  hot  potatoes,  four  ounces  of 
butter,  four  eggs,  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  eggs  and  bread- 
crumbs, frying  fat. 

METHOD. —  Pass  the  hot  potato  quickly  through  a  sieve  or 
mash  them  smoothly.  Stir  in  the  butter  and  eggs,  spread 
smoothly  on  a  dish,  making  the  layers  about  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and,  when  cold,  cut  it  into  rounds  or 


238  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

squares.  Coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs  mixed 
more  or  less  liberally  with  cheese,  according  to  taste,  and  fry 
in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  as  an  accompaniment 
to  game  or  poultry. 

Puff  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds  of  butter, 
two  teaspoon fuls  of  lemon  juice,  about  two-sixths  of  a  pint 
of  cold  water. 

METHOD. —  Wash  and  squeeze  the  butter  in  cold  water,  dry 
well  in  a  floured  cloth,  shape  into  a  square  about  the  size  of 
a  slice  of  sandwich  bread,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  while  the 
paste  is  being  prepared.  Sift  the  flour  on  to  a  marble  slab, 
or  board,  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  put  in  the  lemon  juice, 
and  add  water  gradually  until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed.  The 
condition  of  the  butter  determines  the  consistency;  when  soft, 
the  paste  must  be  equally  so.  Knead  the  paste  until  smooth, 
then  roll  it  out  into  a  strip  a  little  wider  than  the  butter,  and 
rather  more  than  twice  its  length.  Place  the  butter  on  one- 
half  of  the  paste,  fold  the  other  half  over,  enclosing  the  butter 
entirely,  and  press  the  edges  together  with  the  rolling-pin. 
Let  it  remain  in  a  cool  place  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  then 
roll  out  to  about  three  times  the  original  length,  but  keeping 
the  width  the  same,  and  fold  exactly  in  three.  Turn  the  paste 
round  so  that  the  folded  edges  are  on  the  right  and  left,  roll 
and  fold  again,  and  put  aside  for  fifteen  minutes.  Repeat  this 
until  the  paste  has  been  rolled  out  six  times.  The  rolling 
should  be  done  as  evenly  as  possible,  and  the  paste  kept  in  a 
long  narrow  shape  which,  when  folded,  forms  a  square.  Each 
time  the  paste  is  rolled  out  it  may  be  well  sprinkled  with  flour, 
but  it  must  be  evenly  distributed  with  a  paste-brush,  and  all 
the  loose  flour  carefully  brushed  off  before  beginning  to  roll. 
When  the  paste  has  had  its  sixth  roll  it  is  ready  for  use;  it 
should  be  baked  in  a  hot  oven,  and  until  the  paste  has  risen 
and  become  partially  baked,  the  oven  door  should  not  be 
opened,  because  a  current  of  cold  air  may  cause  the  flakes  to 
collapse  on  one  side. 

Rough  Puff  Paste,  or  Half-Puff  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of 
butter  (or  equal  quantities  of  butter  and  lard),  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  salt,  about  one-half  a  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. — Sift  the  flour  on  to  a  pasteboard,  divide  the 
butter  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  and  mix 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  239 

them  lightly  with  the  flour.  Make  a  well  in  the  center,  put 
in  the  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  mix 
lightly,  keeping  the  piece  of  butter  intact,  and  add  water 
gradually  until  a  moderately  stiff  paste  is  formed.  Roll  into 
a  long  strip,  fold  it  equally  in  three,  turn  it  round  so  as  to 
have  the  folded  edges  to  the  right  and  left,  and  roll  out  as 
before.  Repeat  until  the  paste  has  been  rolled  out  four  times, 
then  use;  or,  if  convenient,  let  it  remain  for  one  hour  in  a 
cool  place  before  being  used. 

Rich  Short  Crust. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  six-eighths  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  castor 
sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

METHOD. —  Run  the  butter  lightly  into  the  flour,  add  the 
baking-powder,  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  a  little  water  if  nec- 
essary, but  this  paste  must  be  rather  stiff,  and  when  the  but- 
ter is  soft,  or  the  paste  is  being  mixed  in  a  warm  place,  only 
a  few  drops  of  water  may  be  required.  Roll  out  thinly  and 
use  at  once.  The  crust  for  fruit  tarts  should  be  lightly 
brushed  over  with  cold  water,  and  dredged  with  castor  sugar 
before  being  baked. 

Short  Crust. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter, 
four  ounces  of  lard,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, two  good  pinches  of  salt,  about  two-eighths  of  a 
pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Rub  the  butter  and  lard  lightly  into  the  flour, 
add  the  baking-powder,  salt,  yolk  of  egg,  and  as  much  water 
as  is  necessary  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  out  to  the  required 
thickness  and  use  at  once. 

Short  Crust.  Plain. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  lard,  clari- 
fied fat  or  dripping,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 
(heaped),  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Pass  the  flour,  salt,  and  baking-powder  through 
a  sieve  into  a  large  bowl,  then  rub  in  the  fat,  add  the  water 
and  work  into  a  smooth  paste  with  a  knife.  Roll  out  to  de- 
sired shape  and  thickness,  and  use  at  once.  When  required 
for  fruit  tarts,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  should  be  added 
to  the  above  ingredients. 

Suet  Crust,  Rich. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  bread 


240  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

crumbs,  twelve  ounces  of  suet,  two  heaped  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  about  two- 
sixths  of  a  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Free  the  suet  from  skin,  shred  and  chop  it  finely. 
Mix  well  together  the  flour,  bread-crumbs,  suet,  salt  and  bak- 
ing-powder, and  add  water  to  form  a  paste  soft  enough  to 
roll  out  easily,  but  not  sufficiently  moist  to  stick  to  the  board 
and  rolling-pin.  This  paste  makes  an  exceedingly  light  and 
easily-digested  pudding,  but  in  consequence  of  its  extreme 
lightness  it  is  liable  to  break  if  turned  out  of  the  bowl. 

Suet  Crust. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty- four  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces 
of  suet,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  two-sixths  of  a  pint  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Chop  the  suet  finely  with  a  little  of  the  flour, 
mix  it  with  the  other  dry  ingredients,  and  add  water  to  form 
a  moderately  stiff  paste.  Roll  out  and  use  at  once.  This 
paste  is  equally  suitable  for  meat  pudding,  fruit  pudding,  jam 
roly-poly,  or  plain  suet  pudding. 

Suet  Crust  for  Meat  Pies. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty-four  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces 
of  suet,  two  heaped  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one-half 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two-sixths  of  a  pint  of  cold  water. 

METHOD. —  Free  the  suet  from  skin,  shred  it  into  fine  flakes, 
but  do  not  chop  it.  Add  the  flour  to  the  suet,  and  mix  both 
well  together  in  a  bowl,  then  add  the  salt,  baking-powder,  and 
as  much  water  as  is  necessary  to  mix  the  whole  into  a  fairly 
stiff  paste.  Knead  lightly,  then  roll  out,  and  use  for  any  kind 
of  pie  intended  to  be  eaten  hot. 

Sweet  Paste  for  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  fine  flour,  sixteen  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  ten  ounces  of  butter,  six  eggs,  the  finely- 
grated  rind  of  lemon. 

METHOD. — Sift  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  make  a  hole  in  the 
center,  put  in  the  sugar,  butter  and  eggs,  and  mix  the  whole 
into  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  and  use  as  required. 

Tarts,  Tartlets,  Etc. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  eight  ounces  of  ground  almonds, 
eight  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  three-fourths  of  an  ounce  of 
cornflour,  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  whole  eggs,  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  raspberry  or  strawberry  jam,  nutmeg. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  241 

METHOD.— Beat  the  eggs,  add  them  gradually  to  the  corn- 
flour and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth.  Add  the  sugar,  almonds, 
butter  (melted)  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Line  nine  or  ten 
patty  pans  with  paste,  spread  about  one  teaspoonful  of  jam  on 
the  bottom  of  each  one,  and  fill  with  the  mixture.  Bake  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Alma  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of 
castor  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  currants, 
four  ounces  of  sultanas,  eight  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons. 

METHOD. —  Clean  and  pick  the  currants  and  sultanas. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  white, 
then  beat  in  the  eggs,  and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Have 
ready  a  well-buttered  mold  or  bowl,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
steam  for  two  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Almond  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  penny  rolls,  four  ounces  of  ground  al- 
monds, two  ounces  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  two 
pints  of  milk,  six  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  two 
good  pinches  of  cinnamon. 

METHOD. —  Butter  a  pie-dish  and  line  the  bottom  with  thin, 
buttered  slices  of  roll.  Mix  the  almonds,  lemon  rind  and  cin- 
namon together  and  put  one-half  into  the  pie-dish.  Cover  with 
thin  slices  of  roll,  then  add  the  rest  of  the  almond  mixture, 
and  again  cover  with  slices  of  roll.  Boil  the  milk,  and  add  to 
it  the  sugar ;  beat  the  eggs  well,  then  pour  on  to  them  the  hot, 
NOT  BOILING,  milk,  and  stir  well.  Now  add  the  milk,  etc., 
to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  in  the  pie-dish,  but  in  tablespoon- 
fuls,  to  avoid  floating  the  slices  of  roll.  Cover  the  pudding 
and  let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour,  then  bake  it  gently  for  about 
an  hour. 

Almond  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  ground  almonds,  six  ounces 
of  butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  cake  crumbs 
(stale  sponge  cakes  serve),  two  pints  of  milk,  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  eight  eggs,  puff  paste. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the 
eggs,  beating  each  one  in  separately,  the  cakecrumbs,  lemon 
rind  and  juice  and  almonds.  Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients,  stirring  all  the  time,  return  to  the 
saucepan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens. 


242  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Have  ready  a  pie-dish  with  the  edges  lined  with  paste,  pour 
in  the  mixture,  and  bake  gently  until  brown  and  set.  Serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Apple  Amber  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  large  apples,  six  ounces  of  brown 
sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  six  eggs,  two  lemons,  cherries, 
strips  of  angelica,  short  paste,  or  puff  paste  trimmings,  castor 
sugar. 

METHOD. —  Line  the  edge  of  a  pie-dish  with  thin  strips  of 
paste  about  three  inches  wide,  and  decorate  the  edge  with 
overlapping  leaves  or  small  rounds  of  pastry,  which  must  be 
securely  fixed  by  means  of  white  of  egg.  Peel  and  slice  the 
apples,  stew  them  gently  with  the  butter,  sugar,  and  lemon  rind 
until  tender,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  add  the  yolks 
of  eggs.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  pie-dish,  bake  gently  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  pile  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs  on 
the  top.  Dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  decorate  with 
cherries  and  angelica,  and  replace  in  the  oven  until  the  whites 
of  eggs  harden  and  acquire  a  little  color.  Serve  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Apples,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  apples,  two  whites  of  eggs,  castor 
sugar,  jam  or  jelly. 

METHOD. —  Pare  and  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole; 
roll  up  an  apple-paring  tightly,  and  place  it  in  the  center  of 
each  apple.  Brush  over  with  whites  of  eggs,  and  put  aside 
until  it  dries;  then  re-coat,  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar,  put  the 
apples  into  a  pie-dish,  cover  with  a  greased  paper  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven  until  tender.  Be  careful  not  to  over-cook  or 
they  may  break.  When  done,  remove  the  apple-paring  and 
fill  the  cavity  with  blackberry  or  black  currant  jelly,  black- 
berry or  raspberry  jam,  or  whatever  may  be  preferred;  a  small 
piece  of  butter  and  some  brown  sugar  is  liked  by  many. 

Apple  Charlotte. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  pounds  of  good  cooking  apples,  eight 
ounces  of  brown  sugar,  or  to  taste,  two  ounces  of  butter,  the 
rind  of  two  lemons.  For  lining  the  mold:  thin  slices  of  bread, 
oiled  butter. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and 
cook  until  tender.  When  the  apples  are  reduced  to  a  soft 
smooth  pulp,  add  the  butter  and  lemon  rind,  and  sweeten  to 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  243 

taste.  Meanwhile  take  a  plain  souffle  mold,  and  cover  the 
bottom  with  a  round  of  bread,  previously  cut  in  quarters  and 
dipped  into  the  melted  butter.  If  a  pretty  dish  is  desired,  the 
sides  of  the  mold  should  be  lined  with  rounds  of  bread,  of 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  diameter,  arranged  over-lapping  each 
other;  but  as  three  or  four  tiers  may  be  required  this  method 
occupies  considerable  time.  It  may  be  more  quickly  lined  with 
long  narrow  strips  the  size  of  Savoy  biscuits,  these  may  also 
overlap  each  other,  or  they  may  be  laid  flat  against  the  tin. 
Each  piece  of  bread  must  be  dipped  into  the  oiled  butter  be- 
fore being  used.  When  the  mold  is  ready  put  in  the  apple 
pulp,  cover  the  top  with  a  round  of  bread,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  over  for  about  thirty  minutes. 

Apple  Charlotte.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  apples,  six  ounces  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  six  ounces  of  white  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces 
of  brown  sugar,  one  lemon  (rind  only),  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  browned  breadcrumbs. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices. 
Grease  a  pie-dish,  and  coat  it  thickly  with  browned  bread- 
crumbs; mix  together  the  suet  and  breadcrumbs,  and  grate 
the  lemon  rind.  Fill  the  pie-dish  with  alternate  layers  of 
apple  and  mixed  suet  and  crumbs,  letting  the  bottom  and  top 
layers  be  rather  thick  ones  of  breadcrumbs;  the  lemon  rind 
should  be  mixed  with  the  sugar  and  sprinkled  on  each  layer  of 
apple.  Cover  with  a  double  layer  of  greased  paper,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  one  and  a  quarter  hours.  When 
ready,  loosen  the  edges  with  a  knife,  and  invert  on  to  a  hot 
dish. 

Apple  Cheesecakes. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pounds  of  apples,  six  ounces  of  sugar, 
three  ounces  of  butter,  six  eggs,  two  lemons,  paste. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  sim- 
mer gently  until  tender,  and  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve. 
Return  the  apple-pulp  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  lemon  juice, 
and  the  rind  finely  grated,  re-heat,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  six  eggs 
and  the  whites  of  two  and  cook  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
Have  ready  the  patty-pans  lined  with  paste  and  partially  baked, 
fill  with  the  apple  preparation,  cover  lightly  with  stiffly- 
whipped  sweetened  whites  of  eggs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 


244  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Apple  Dumplings,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  short  paste  (See  Pastry)  ten 
or  twelve  apples,  according  to  size,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cur- 
rants, a  little  moist  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Peel  and  core  the  apples  and  fill  the  center  with 
currants.  Roll  out  the  paste  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  rounds 
nearly  large  enough  to  cover  the  apples.  Place  one  in  the 
center  of  each  round,  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste  and  press 
gently  to  the  top  of  the  apple.  Put  them  join  downwards  on  a 
baking-sheet,  and  bake  them  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven.  When  nearly  done,  brush  lightly  over 
with  water,  sprinkle  over  with  moist  sugar,  and  return  to  the 
oven  to  finish  baking.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Apple  Dumplings,  Boiled. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  and  a  half  pounds  of  suet  paste,  twelve 
apples,  twelve  cloves,  moist  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Pare  and  core  the  apples,  fill  the  cavities  with 
sugar,  and  add  a  clove.  Roll  the  paste  and  cut  rounds  large 
enough  to  rather  more  than  three-quarters  cover  the  apples. 
Place  one  on  each  round  of  paste,  slightly  wet  the  edges,  and 
press  them  gently  to  the  top  of  the  apples  where  they  must  be 
completely  joined.  Tie  each  dumpling  in  the  corner  of  a  well- 
floured  pudding  cloth,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil 
gently  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes. 

Apple  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  sour  cooking  apples,  one  pint  of 
breadcrumbs,  four  or  six  tablespoonfuls  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  two  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  slices,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar  and  four  or  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  water,  cook  until  tender,  then  stir  in  the  butter  and  well- 
beaten  egg.  Coat  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  well-buttered  pie- 
dish  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  put  a  few  pieces  of  butter  on 
the  top,  and  bake  gently  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
keeping  the  dish  covered  with  greased  paper  to  prevent  the 
surface  from  becoming  too  brown. 

Apple  Pudding,  Boiled. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty-four  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces 
of  suet,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  four  pounds  of 
apples,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  twelve  cloves,  if 
liked. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  rather  thick 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  245 

slices.  Make  the  paste  as  directed  in  recipe.  Cut  off  rather 
more  than  a  quarter  of  the  paste  for  the  lid,  roll  out  the  re- 
mainder, and  with  it  line  the  bowl,  previously  well  greased. 
Put  in  half  the  fruit,  then  the  sugar,  intersperse  the  cloves, 
cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  fruit  and  add  one  gill  cold 
water.  Roll  out  the  rest  of  the  pastry  to  the  size  of  the  top 
of  the  bowl,  moisten  the  edges  slightly,  and  join  them  care- 
fully to  the  edges  of  the  pastry  lining  the  bowl.  If  the  pud- 
ding is  to  be  boiled,  cover  the  top  with  a  well-floured  cloth; 
if  steamed,  two  folds  of  greased  paper  may  be  used.  Cook 
from  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours. 

Apples  and  Rice. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  or  ten  apples,  two  and  a  half  pints  of 
milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  lemon  rind  and  other  flavor- 
ing, two  good  pinches  of  salt,  raspberry  jam,  or  sugar  and 
butter. 

METHOD. —  Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  the 
salt,  lemon  rind  and  milk,  simmer  until  the  greater  part  of  the 
milk  is  absorbed  and  the  rice  becomes  tender,  then  stir  in  the 
butter  and  sugar,  and  remove  the  lemon  rind.  Peel  and  core 
the  apples,  place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  fill  the  cavities  with  rasp- 
berry jam  or  a  little  butter  and  sugar.  Fill  the  spaces  between 
the  apples  with  rice,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  the  apples 
are  tender,  but  not  broken. 

Apples  and  Sago. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  or  twelve  cooking  apples,  two  pints  of 
water,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  fine  sago,  the  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  few  drops  of 
carmine  or  cochineal. 

METHOD. — Peel  and  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole. 
Boil  the  water,  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  stir  and  cook  until  clear. 
Now  add  the  apples,  sugar,  lemon  rind  and  juice,  and  simmer 
very  gently  until  the  apples  are  tender;  then  remove  them, 
place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  add  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  to  the 
syrup,  and  pour  it  over  the  apples. 

Apples  with  Custard  Sauce. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  apples,  raspberry  jam.  For  the  cus- 
tard, one  pint  of  milk,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  whites  of  eggs, 
two  dessertspoonfuls  of  sugar. 

METHOD. — Pare  and  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole; 
roll  up  an  apple  paring  tightly,  and  place  it  in  the  center  of 


246  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

each  apple.  Put  them  in  a  deep  baking-dish,  barely  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  cold  water,  place  on  the  top  an 
inverted  dish  or  pie-dish  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and  bake  gently 
until  tender.  Lift  carefully  on  to  a  hot  dish,  remove  the  apple- 
parings,  fill  the  cavity  with  jam,  and  pour  the  custard  round. 
(See  custard  sauce.) 

Apple  Snow. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  sour  cooking  apples,  eight  ounces  of 
sugar,  or  to  taste,  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  four  whites  of  eggs, 
the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  vanilla  pod,  one  pint  of  milk, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

METHOD. —  Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  lemon  rind,  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a 
little  water.  Cook  until  tender,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve, 
let  the  puree  cool,  then  stir  in  the  cream.  Simmer  the  milk 
and  vanilla  pod  together  until  sufficiently  flavored,  then  remove 
the  pod  (dry  it  and  place  in  castor  sugar  for  future  use),  add 
sugar  to  taste,  stir  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
cook  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken,  stirring  mean- 
while. Now  put  the  apple  puree  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  pour 
the  custard  on  the  top,  and  cover  with  the  stiffly-whisked  whites 
of  eggs.  Dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  the  surface  hardens  and  acquires  a  little 
color.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Buttered  Apples. 

Peel  and  core  some  large  apples,  but  do  not  cut  them  up. 
Now  cut  some  round  slices  of  stale  bread  just  large  enough 
for  an  apple  to  stand  upon  each.  Butter  an  earthenware  cook- 
ing-pot, place  bread  and  apples  therein  with  a  little  piece  of 
fresh  butter  on  the  top  of  each.  Cover  the  vessel  and  place 
over  a  gentle  fire.  A  better  result  will  be  obtained  if  the 
Continental  method  is  adopted  of  heaping  hot  coals  on  the  top 
of  the  cooking  vessel. 

From  time  to  time  the  apples  must  be  examined  and  the 
hollows  refilled  with  sugar  and  butter.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  fire  does  not  get  sufficiently  hot  to  burn  the 
bread.  When  almost  done  the  hollows  in  the  apples  should  be 
filled  with  jam. 

Flaming  Apples. 

Peel  some  small  apples  and  arrange  on  the  bottom  of  a 
stewpan.  Just  cover  them  with  water  and  add  the  grated 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  247 

rind  of  an  orange  or  a  lemon,  a  little  cinnamon  and  plenty 
of  sugar.  Boil  gently  till  the  apples  are  cooked,  but  be  care- 
ful that  they  do  not  break.  Now  take  them  cautiously  one 
by  one  and  arrange  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid  on  a  dish.  Keep 
very  hot  while  you  reduce  the  water  in  which  they  have  been 
boiled  to  a  thick  syrup.  Pour  this  over  the  apples  and  powder 
well  with  sifted  sugar.  Now  sprinkle  freely  with  rum  and  set 
on  fire  just  before  serving. 

Apple  Miroton. 

Mix  together  half  a  pound  each  of  apricot  marmalade  and 
of  apple  marmalade,  and  pile  in  a  mound  in  the  middle  of  a 
fireproof  plate.  Next  core  and  peel  twelve  large  apples  and 
slice  them  evenly.  Place  them  in  a  dish  with  a  large  glass  of 
brandy,  to  which  has  been  added  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon.  After  soaking  for  three  or  four  hours 
take  out  the  slices  of  apple  and  arrange  them  carefully  over 
it.  About  half  an  hour  before  the  dish  is  required  place  it  in 
the  oven  and  bake  till  the  apples  are  thoroughly  cooked. 

Apple  Pie. 

Stew  one  pound  of  pared  and  cored  apples  in  a  syrup  made 
by  dissolving  half  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water.  Be 
very  careful  that  they  do  not  break.  Now  line  a  dish  with 
puff  paste  and  arrange  the  apples  inside,  filling  the  center  of 
each  with  orange  marmalade.  Sprinkle  with  a  little  chopped 
citron  peel  and  then  pour  over  them  the  syrup  in  which  they 
have  been  cooked,  previously  reduced  by  boiling  down  with  a 
little  essence  of  vanilla.  Now  lay  strips  of  puff  paste  over 
the  apples,  bake  till  the  paste  is  done,  and  serve  cold  with 
whipped  cream. 

Apple  Tart. 

Make  a  dough  of  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  butter, 
two  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  spoonful  of  sifted  sugar. 
Add  one  ounce  of  yeast  and  let  it  rise.  When  sufficiently  risen 
roll  the  dough  out  thin  and  place  it  on  a  buttered  plate,  spread- 
ing over  it  a  little  melted  butter,  and  sprinkling  freely  with 
powdered  sugar  and  grated  cinnamon.  Peel,  core  and  slice 
twenty  apples,  lay  them  closely  over  the  dough  and  bake  in 
a  brisk  oven.  It  will  take  about  an  hour.  Other  fruit,  such 
as  plums  and  apricots,  can  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

Apple  Tart.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  pounds  of   apples,    four   tablespoonfuls 


248  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

of  moist  sugar,  eight  cloves  or  one-half  teaspoonful  of  grated 
lemon  rind,  short  paste. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices. 
Roll  the  paste  into  an  oval  form  a  little  larger  than  the  top 
of  the  pie-dish,  invert  the  dish  in  the  center  of  the  paste,  and 
cut  round,  leaving  a  quarter  of  an  inch  margin  on  all  sides. 
Line  the  edge  of  the  pie-dish  with  the  trimmings,  put  in  half 
the  apples,  add  the  sugar,  and  flavoring  ingredients,  then  the 
remainder  of  the  fruit.  Moisten  the  paste,  lining  the  edge  of 
the  dish  with  water,  put  on  the  cover,  press  the  edges  together 
and  notch  them  at  intervals  of  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch. 
Bake  in  a  brisk  oven  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes,  and  when 
the  paste  has  risen  and  set,  brush  it  over  lightly  with  cold 
water,  and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar.  This  must  be  done 
quickly,  and  the  tart  immediately  replaced  in  the  oven.  If 
the  tart  is  to  be  eaten  cold,  directly  it  leaves  the  oven  the 
crust  should  be  raised  gently  with  a  knife,  to  allow  some  of  the 
steam  to  escape,  otherwise  it  may  lose  some  of  its  crispness. 

Apple  Tart,  Creamed. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  crust,  four  pounds  of  apples,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  two  pints 
of  custard. 

METHOD. — Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  butter,  and  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  cook  very  gently  until  tender. 
Pass  the  apples  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  more  sugar,  if  neces- 
sary, and  put  the  puree  into  a  pie-dish  lined  with  pastry. 

Bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  paste  has  risen  and  set,  then 
add  the  prepared  custard,  and  bake  more  slowly  until  the 
pastry  is  sufficiently  cooked  and  the  custard  firm.  Serve  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Apple  Timbale. 

Take  a  bowl  or  deep  dish,  line  with  good  puff  paste,  and  bake 
till  done.  Next  cook  some  apples  in  a  syrup  flavored  with 
vanilla  and  reduce  until  of  a  somewhat  thick  consistency.  Pour 
this  into  the  dish,  and  when  quite  stiff  turn  out  carefully  and 
serve  cold  with  custard  sauce. 

Arrowroot  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
arrowroot,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  six  eggs,  two 
pinches  of  salt. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  249 

boil  the  remainder  and  add  it  to  the  arrowroot,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Return  to  the  saucepan  and  boil  gently  until  it  thick- 
ens, then  cool  slightly.  Add  the  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  pre- 
viously well  beaten,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  two  or 
three  minutes.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  lightly  add 
them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  well-buttered 
pie-dish,  and  bake  slowly  for  about  half  an  hour. 

Arrowroot  Pudding,  Steamed. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  two  pints  of  milk,  the  grated  rind 
of  one  lemon,  four  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  of  the 
milk,  boil  the  remainder  and  pour  it  over  the  arrowroot,  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  stir  and  cook  over 
the  fire  until  thick,  then  cool  slightly,  and  add  the  sugar,  lemon 
rind  and  eggs,  previously  well  beaten.  Pour  into  a  buttered 
mold,  and  steam  gently  from  one  and  a  quarter  to  one  and  a 
half  hours.  Serve  with  custard,  wine,  or  any  other  suitable 
sauce. 

Austrian  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pint  of  raspberries,  moist  sugar,  eight 
ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces 
of  ground  almonds,  four  ounces  of  glace  cherries,  eight  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  one  ounce  butter. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  raspberries  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
moist  sugar  into  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  containing  boil- 
ing water  and  half  cook  them.  Meanwhile  work  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  and  the  castor  sugar  together  in  a  bowl  until  thick 
and  creamy,  then  add  the  cakecrumbs,  ground  almonds,  cream, 
oiled  butter,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs. 
When  the  raspberries  are  ready,  place  them  with  their  juice  in 
a  buttered  fireproof  china  souffle  dish,  cover  with  the  prepara- 
tion, decorate  with  the  halved  glace  cherries,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  one-half  hour.  Serve  hot.  Rasp- 
berries preserved  in  bottles  may  be  used  when  fresh  ones  are 
not  obtainable. 

Baba  with  Rum  Syrup. 

INGREDIENTS — One  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour,  one  ounce  of 
yeast,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  butter, 
three  ounces  of  currants  cleansed  and  picked,  one-third  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  two  good  pinches  of  salt.  For  the  syrup,  one 


250  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  a  half  pints  of  water,   four  ounces   of  loaf  sugar,   four 
tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  jam,   two  wineglassfuls  of  rum. 

METHOD. —  Dry  the  flour  thoroughly,  sift  eight  ounces  of 
it  into  a  warm,  dry  bowl,  add  the  salt,  and  make  a  hole  in  the 
center.  Mix  the  yeast  smoothly  with  a  little  warm  milk,  add 
it  to  the  flour,  knead  the  preparation  into  a  smooth  dough, 
then  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  rise  in  a  warm  place.  Sift 
the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  large  bowl,  make  a  hole  in 
the  center,  and  put  in  the  salt,  sugar,  warmed  butter,  eggs,  and 
the  remainder  of  the  milk,  beat  with  the  hand  for  fifteen  min- 
utes and  cover  with  a  cloth.  When  the  dough  has  risen  to 
twice  its  original  size,  mix  the  contents  of  the  bowl  together, 
add  the  currants  and  knead  lightly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Have 
ready  one  large  or  eight  small  well-buttered  molds  with  straight 
sides,  sprinkle  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  few  currants,  half 
fill  with  dough,  stand  near  the  fire  until  it  rises  nearly  to  the 
top  of  the  mold,  then  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  When 
done,  turn  on  to  a  sieve,  and  baste  well  with  rum  syrup,  then 
place  in  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  serve  hot.  To 
make  the  syrup;  boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  con- 
siderably reduced,  then  add  the  jam,  boil  for  ten  minutes, 
strain,  return  to  the  stewpan,  put  in  the  rum,  bring  to  boil- 
ing point,  and  use  as  directed. 

Babas  with  Kirsch. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  fine  flour,  one  and  a  half 
ounces  of  yeast,  sixteen  to  eighteen  ounces  of  butter,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  currants,  cleaned,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sul- 
tanas, cleaned,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  ten  eggs, 
the  grated  rind  of  the  lemon,  salt.  For  the  syrup:  one  and  a 
half  pints  of  water,  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  kirschwasser  to 
flavor. 

METHOD. — Dry  and  sift  the  flour  into  a  large  bowl,  make  a 
hole  in  the  center,  and  add  the  yeast  mixed  smoothly  with  a 
little  tepid  water.  Let  it  stand  for  about  half  an  hour,  then 
add  the  well-creamed  butter,  currants,  sultanas,  sugar,  lemon 
rind,  two  good  pinches  of  salt,  and  the  eggs.  Beat  the  mix- 
ture until  smooth,  then  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  stand 
until  it  rises  to  nearly  twice  its  original  size.  Have  ready 
some  buttered  timbale  molds,  half  fill  them  with  the  prepara- 
tion, let  them  stand  until  it  rises  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  molds, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Meanwhile  boil  the  sugar 
and  water  until  the  syrup  is  formed,  flavor  with  kirschwasser, 
pour  it  over  the  babas,  or  dip  them  in  it  and  serve. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  251 

Bachelor's   Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  raisins, 
stoned,  four  ounces  of  sultanas,  cleaned  and  picked,  two  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one-half  pint  of  milk. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  milk 
and  the  egg  (previously  beaten),  and  stir  well.  Put  into  a 
well-greased  pie-dish,  and  bake  gently  for  about  one  and  a 
quarter  hours.  When  ready,  turn  out  of  the  dish,  dredge  well 
with  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Baroness  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  and  a  half  pounds  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of 
raisins  (stoned)  one  pint  of  milk,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt. 

METHOD. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the 
milk  and  stir  well.  Put  into  a  well-greased  bowl,  and  boil  or 
steam  for  about  three  hours.  Serve  with  any  suitable  sweet 
sauce,  or  with  a  little  sugar. 

Batter  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  four  eggs,  eight  heaped 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  salt,  dripping. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  flour  and  two  good  pinches  of  salt  into 
a  bowl,  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  break  in  the  eggs,  stir, 
gradually  mixing  in  the  flour  from  the  sides,  and  add  milk 
by  degrees  until  a  thick,  smooth  batter  is  formed.  Now  beat 
well  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk, 
cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  one  hour.  When  ready  to 
use,  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  dripping  into  a  pie-dish,  and 
while  it  is  heating  give  the  batter  another  good  beating.  Pour 
into  the  dish,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  thirty-five 
minutes.  Serve  with  sugar,  butter  and  sugar,  jam  or  stewed 
fruit. 

Berlin  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter, 
four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  almonds,  eight 
eggs,  one  pint  of  milk  (rather  less),  salt. 

METHOD. —  Blanch,  peel  and  shred  the  almonds  finely,  then 
dry  them  in  a  cool  oven.  Dry  and  sieve  the  flour,  add  to  it 
about  half  the  milk,  and  stir  vigorously  until  a  smooth  batter 
is  formed.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  milk  and  the  butter 
into  a  stewpan,  when  boiling  add  the  sugar,  batter,  and  a  good 
pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens.  Now  let 


252  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

it  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  each  yolk  of  egg  separately,  stir 
in  the  almonds,  and  lastly  add  the  stiffly-whipped  whites  of 
eggs  Turn  the  preparation  into  one  large  or  eight  small  well- 
buttered  molds,  and  steam  a  large  pudding  from  one  and  a  half 
to  two  hours,  and  small  ones  for  about  forty  minutes.  Serve 
with  custard  sauce  or  other  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Black-Cap  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  sugar, 
two  ounces  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked,  one  pint  of  milk, 
two  eggs,  two  good  pinches  of  salt. 

METHOD. — Put  the  flour  and  salt  into  a  basin,  make  a  hole 
in  the  center  of  the  flour,  break  in  the  eggs,  add  the  milk  a 
little  at  a  time,  and  stir,  gradually  working  in  the  flour  from 
the  sides.  When  about  half  the  milk  has  been  used,  give  the 
batter  a  good  beating,  then  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  the  sugar 
and  currants.  The  pudding  may  be  cooked  at  once,  but  it 
will  be  lighter  if  allowed  to  first  stand  one  hour.  Cover  with 
a  greased  paper,  steam  for  one  and  a  half  hours,  and  serve 
with  melted  butter. 

Black-Currant  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  crust,  two  pounds  of  black-currants, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  one-half  of  a  pint  of  cream, 
castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Cook  the  black-currants  with  the  sugar,  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  water,  in  a  jar  on  the  stove  or  in  a  slow  oven. 
Line  twelve  patty-pans  with  the  paste,  fill  them  with  rice 
placed  in  buttered  papers,  and  bake  until  crisp  in  a  brisk  oven. 
When  cold,  fill  them  with  the  prepared  cold  fruit  and  syrup, 
cover  with  stiffly-whipped,  sweetened  cream,  and  serve  cold. 

Cherry  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  short  paste,  two  pounds  of 
cooking  cherries,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  four 
large  or  six  small  eggs,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Remove  the  stalks  from  the  cherries,  put  them 
into  a  small  stew  jar  with  the  moist  sugar,  stand  the  jar  in 
a  saucepan,  surround  it  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the 
cherries  are  tender.  Meanwhile  line  ten  or  twelve  patty-pans 
with  the  paste,  fill  them  with  rice,  placing  a  buttered  paper  be- 
tween it  and  the  paste,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  When  the 
cherries  are  sufficiently  cooked,  strain  off  the  syrup  into  a  small 
stewpan,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  previously  beaten,  and  stir 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  custard  thickens.  Fill  the 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  253 

patty-cases  with  cherries,  cover  with  a  layer  of  custard,  on 
the  top  spread  a  little  stiffly  whipped  white  of  egg,  and  sprinkle 
with  castor  sugar.  Replace  in  the  oven  until  the  white  of 
egg  hardens,  and  acquires  a  little  color,  then  serve  hot  or  cold. 

Brandy  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  wineglassfuls  of  brandy,  one  pint  of 
cream,  one  pint  of  milk,  eight  eggs,  two  stale  French  rolls, 
four  ounces  of  macaroons  or  ratafias,  eight  ounces  of  sugar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind,  grated  nutmeg,  glace 
cherries. 

METHOD. —  Decorate  a  well-buttered  mold  with  halved  cher- 
ries, and  afterwards  line  it  with  thin  slices  of  roll.  About  half 
fill  the  mold  with  alternate  layers  of  macaroons  and  sliced 
roll,  adding  a  few  cherries,  the  brandy,  and  a  little  sugar. 
Mix  the  'eggs,  cream,  and  milk,  add  the  sugar,  lemon  rind, 
and  a  little  nutmeg,  and  pour  the  whole  into  the  mold.  Let 
it  stand  for  one  hour,  then  steam  it  gently  for  one  and  a  half 
hours,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Bread  and  Butter  Puddings,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Ten  or  twelve  thin  slices  of  bread  and  but- 
ter, two  pints  of  milk,  four  eggs,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  sugar, 
sultanas,  currants  or  candied  lemon,  if  liked. 

METHOD. —  Cut  off  the  crust  and  divide  each  slice  of  bread 
into  four  squares,  arrange  them  in  layers  in  a  well-buttered 
pie-dish,  and  sprinkle  each  layer  with  sultanas  or  whatever  is 
being  used.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  stir  until  dissolved, 
then  mix  in  the  milk  and  pour  gently  over  the  bread,  which 
should  only  half  fill  the  dish.  Let  it  stand  at  least  one  hour 
for  the  bread  to  soak,  then  bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven 
for  one  hour. 

Bread  Cutlets. 

Take  some  thick  slices  of  stale  bread,  soak  them  in  custard 
till  they  are  just  moistened,  and  then  dip  in  breadcrumbs  and 
fry  in  butter.  These  are  eaten  with  baked  apples,  each  apple 
having  a  little  currant  jam  laid  on  it.  The  dish  is  usually  ac- 
companied by  a  sauce  made  by  boiling  together  cider,  sugar, 
and  cinnamon. 

Brown  Bread  Pudding. 

Melt  in  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  with  eight 
ounces  of  brown  breadcrumbs.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  stir 
in  half  a  pint  of  claret  and  let  the  whole  get  cold.  Now  add 


254  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

twelve  beaten  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  a  teaspoonful 
of  ground  cinnamon,  the  grated  almonds,  and  a  few  cardamom 
seeds.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  turn  into  a  bowl,  cover,  and 
boil  for  two  hours  and  a  half. 

Bread  and  Butter  Puddings,  Steamed. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Ten  or  twelve  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  one 
and  a  half  pints  of  milk,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  sugar,  four 
eggs,  sultanas,  raisins,  currants,  or  candied  peel,  if  liked. 

METHOD. —  Butter  a  pudding  bowl,  sprinkle  it  with  currants, 
or  chopped  peel,  or  arrange  raisins  or  sultanas  in  some  simple 
design  on  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  bowl.  Cut  each  slice 
of  bread  into  four  pieces,  place  them  in  layers,  each  layer  be- 
ing sprinkled  with  fruit  and  a  little  finely-chopped  candied 
peel.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  milk  and  sugar,  stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  then  pour  slowly  over  the  bread,  etc.  Let  it  stand 
at  least  one  hour,  if  convenient  for  two  hours,  before  being 
cooked.  Cover  the  top  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  slowly 
for  about  one  hour.  Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce  or  fruit  syrup. 

Cabinet  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Stale  sponge  cakes  or  Savoy  biscuits,  one  and 
a  half  pints  of  milk,  eight  yolks  and  four  whites  of  eggs,  twelve 
or  sixteen  ratafia  biscuits,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar, 
a  few  drops  of  vanilla,  a  few  cherries,  and  a  little  angelica 
to  ornament  the  mold. 

METHOD. —  Butter  a  mold  with  plain  straight  sides,  ornament 
the  bottom  with  strips  of  angelica  and  cherries  cut  in  halves, 
and  line  the  sides  with  narrow  strips  of  sponge  cake  or  savoy 
biscuits.  Break  the  trimmings  of  the  cake  or  six  or  eight 
biscuits  into  small  pieces,  put  them,  together  with  the  ratafias, 
into  the  mold.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  sugar,  flavor- 
ing and  milk,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  pour  the 
custard  slowly  into  the  mold.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper, 
and  steam  gently  for  nearly  one  hour. 

Cabinet  Pudding,  Plain. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Ten  or  twelve  thin  slices  of  bread,  two  pints 
of  milk,  four  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  raisins,  a  few  drops  of  almond  essence,  or  other  fla- 
voring. 

METHOD. —  Cut  the  raisins  in  halves  and  remove  the  stones. 
Cut  the  crusts  off  the  bread,  divide  each  slice  into  strips  one 
inch  wide,  taper  one  end  and  trim  to  a  uniform  length.  Have 
ready  a  well-buttered  bowl,  decorate  with  raisins,  and  line  with 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  255 

strips  of  bread.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  sugar,  milk 
and  flavoring,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Cut  all 
the  bread-trimming  into  dice,  put  them  into  the  prepared  bowl, 
pour  on  the  custard,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam 
gently  for  one  hour. 

Canadian  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  meal,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  eight  eggs,  the  thin  rind  of 
two  small  lemons,  two  quarts  of  milk,  raisins  stoned  and  halved. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  meal  with  a  little  cold  milk,  infuse  the 
lemon  rind  in  the  remainder  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain 
the  boiling  milk  over  the  meal.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add 
the  sugar,  and  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes.  When  cool,  add 
the  well-beaten  eggs,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  mold  or 
bowl  previously  well-buttered  and  decorated  with  raisins. 
Steam  for  two  and  a  half  hours,  then  serve  with  a  suitable 
sauce. 

Caramel  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  For  the  caramel :  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  For  the  custard:  one  pint 
of  milk,  eight  yolks  and  four  whites  of  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  or  other  flavoring. 

METHOD. — Boil  the  loaf  sugar  and  cold  water  together  until 
the  liquid  acquires  a  light  brown  color,  then  pour  it  into  a  char- 
lotte or  plain  timbale  mold,  and  turn  the  mold  slowly  round 
and  round  until  every  part  of  it  is  coated  with  the  caramel. 
Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  sugar,  flavoring  and  milk,  and 
stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Strain  the  custard  into  the 
mold,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  steam  very  slowly  for  about 
forty  minutes,  then  turn  out  carefully.  No  other  sauce  is 
needed  than  the  caramel,  which  runs  off  when  the  pudding  is 
inverted.  This  pudding  is  equally  nice  cold;  when  intended 
to  be  served  thus,  it  may  be  allowed  to  cool  before  being  turned 
out  of  the  mold,  and  so  lessen  the  probability  of  its  breaking. 
If  preferred  six  dariole  molds  may  be  used  instead  of  one  large 
mold. 

Caramel  Rice  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  For  the  caramel :  eight  ounces  of  loaf  sugar, 
one-half  pint  of  water.  For  the  pudding:  six  ounces  of  rice, 
two  pints  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  four 
eggs,  vanilla  essence. 

METHOD. — Prepare  the  caramel  and  line  the  mold  as  directed 


256  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

in  the  preceding  recipe.  Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until 
tender,  cool  slightly,  then  stir  in  the  well-beaten  eggs,  sugar, 
and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence.  Turn  into  the  prepared 
mold,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  steam  for  nearly  one 
hour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold.  If  preferred  the  rice  may  be 
steamed  in  dariole  molds. 

Cassell  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  eggs  and  their  weight  in  butter,  castor 
sugar  and  flour,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  finely-grated  lemon  rind, 
jam. 

METHOD. — Whisk  the  eggs  well,  stir  in  the  sugar  and  flour, 
and  add  the  butter  slightly  warmed.  Have  ready  some  well- 
buttered  cups,  cover  the  bottom  of  each  one  with  jam,  and  fill 
it  three-quarters  full  with  the  mixture.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  •  twenty-five  minutes,  and  serve  with  boiled  custard 
(see  recipes  for  same.) 

Chestnut  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  ounces  of  chestnuts  (weighed  after 
the  skins  are  removed),  two  ounces  of  chocolate,  four  ounces 
of  cakecrumbs,  four  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter, 
two  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  eight  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  of  essence  of  vanilla. 

METHOD. —  Bake  or  roast  the  chestnuts,  remove  both  skins, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  very  small  quantity  of  water, 
cook  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Break  the 
chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  it  and  the  milk  into  a  stewpan, 
and  simmer  until  dissolved.  In  another  stewpan  melt  the  but- 
ter, stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  add 
the  milk,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  The  cakecrumbs  must  now  be 
added,  and  the  mixture  stirred  and  cooked  until  it  leaves  the 
sides  of  the  stewpan  clear.  Allow  it  to  cool  a  little,  then  beat 
in  the  yolks  of  the  'eggs,  and  add  the  chestnut  puree  and  the 
vanilla  essence.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture,  pour  into  a  well-buttered 
mold,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  either  steam  for  one  and 
a  half  hours  or  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  one  hour. 
Serve  with  vanilla  or  custard  sauce. 

Chestnut  Amber. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pint  of  chestnuts,  one  pint  of  milk,  four 
ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  two  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  four  eggs,  two  lemons,  vanilla  essence,  puff  paste. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  257 

METHOD. —  Bake  or  roast  the  chestnuts  for  about  twenty 
minutes  and  remove  the  skins.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
just*  sufficient  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  simmer 
gently  until  tender,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Simmer  the 
thinly-cut  rind  of  the  lemon  and  the  milk  for  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes  and  strain  it  over  the  breadcrumbs.  Cream  the  butter 
and  sugar  together,  until  thick  and  smooth,  add  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  the  juice  of  the  lemon,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  es- 
sence and  stir  in  the  chestnuts,  breadcrumbs  and  milk.  Have 
the  pie-dish  ready  lined  with  paste,  as  directed  for  Apple 
Amber,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  mixture  is 
firm  and  brown,  and  the  paste  sufficiently  cooked.  Whip  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  sweeten  with  a  little  sugar,  pile  lightly 
on  the  top  of  the  pudding,  and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar. 
Return  to  the  oven  until  the  meringue  is  set  and  acquires  a  little 
color. 

Chestnut  Pudding. 

Parboil  and  peel  a  quart  of  chestnuts  and  then  let  them  cook 
very  gently  for  an  hour  with  a  cupful  of  milk.  Next  rub  the 
whole  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add  a  cupful  of  sifted  sugar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little 
powdered  mace.  Now  stir  in  the  whisked  yolks  of  five  eggs, 
after  which  beat  the  whites  to  a  very  stiff  froth  and  add  to  the 
other  materials.  When  thoroughly  blended  place  the  whole  in 
a  dish  and  bake  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

It  may  be  eaten  either  hot  or  cold  and  is  generally  served 
with  jam  or  whipped  cream. 

Chocolate  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  chocolate,  four  ounces  of 
cakecrumbs,  four  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter,  two 
ounces  of  castor  sugar,  eight  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

METHOD. —  Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  it  with 
the  milk  into  a  stewpan,  simmer  until  dissolved  and  cool.  In 
another  stewpan  melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  a  little 
without  browning,  then  put  in  the  milk  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Now  add  the  cakecrumbs,  and  cook  gently  until  the  mixture 
becomes  thick  and  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clear.  Let 
it  cool  a  little,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  add  the 
vanilla  essence.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them 


258  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

lightly  into  the  mixture,  pour  into  a  well-buttered  plain  mold, 
cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  steam  for  one  and  a  half  hours, 
or  bake  for  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  custard, 
chocolate,  or  vanilla  sauce. 

Chocolate  Pudding.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Seven  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces  of 
chocolate,  three  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  three  ounces  of  butter, 
four  eggs,  one-half  pint  of  milk  (about),  vanilla  essence. 

METHOD. — Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  the  milk,  and  simmer  until  dissolved.  Cream 
the  butter  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  bread- 
crumbs, milk,  chocolate,  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence, 
and  mix  well  together.  Whisk  the  whites  stiffly,  add  them 
lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  well-buttered 
mold,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  from  one  and  a 
quarter  to  one  and  a  half  hours.  Or,  put  the  mixture  into 
six  well-buttered,  large-sized  dariole  molds,  and  steam  about 
twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  with  custard  or  vanilla  sauce. 

Chocolate  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  four  ounces  of  grated  chocolate, 
eight  ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  six  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four 
ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  cornflour,  four  eggs,  chocolate 
icing. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  well 
together,  add  the  cakecrumbs,  chocolate,  cornflour,  and  the 
butter  (melted).  Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiffly,  and  stir 
them  in  as  lightly  as  possible.  Have  ready  twelve  patty-pans 
lined  with  short  paste,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes. 
When  cold  cover  the  surface  of  each  tartlet  with  chocolate 
icing,  allow  it  to  harden,  then  serve. 

Christmas  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  beef  suet,  four  ounces  of  flour, 
one  pound  of  raisins,  one-half  pound  of  mixed  peel,  one  grated 
nutmeg,  one  ounce  of  mixed  spice,  one  ounce  of  ground  cin- 
namon, two  gills  of  milk,  two  wineglassfuls  of  rum  or  brandy, 
one  pound  of  breadcrumbs,  one  pound  of  sultanas,  one-half 
pound  of  currants,  two  lemons,  four  ounces  of  desiccated  cocoa- 
nut  or  shredded  almonds,  two  pinches  of  salt,  eight  eggs. 

METHOD. — Skin  the  suet  and  chop  it  finely.  Clean  the  fruit, 
stone  the  raisins,  finely  shred  the  mixed  peel;  peel  and  chop 
the  lemon  rind.  Put  all  the  dry  ingredients  in  a  bowl  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  259 

mix  well.  Add  the  milk,  stir  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  add 
the  rum  or  brandy,  and  the  strained  juice  of  the  lemon.  Work 
the  whole  thoroughly  for  some  minutes,  so  that  the  ingredients 
are  well  blended.  Put  the  mixture  in  a  well-buttered  pudding 
bowl  or  pudding  cloth;  if  the  latter  is  used  it  should  be  but- 
tered or  floured.  Boil  for  about  four  hours,  or  steam  for  at 
least  five  hours. 

Plum  Pudding,  Christmas.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  moist  sugar,  sixteen 
ounces  of  finely-chopped  suet,  sixteen  ounces  of  sultanas, 
cleaned,  sixteen  ounces  of  raisins,  halved  and  stoned,  sixteen 
ounces  of  currants,  washed  and  dried,  eight  ounces  of  shredded 
mixed  candied  peel,  eight  ounces  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of 
breadcrumbs,  four  ounces  of  almonds,  blanched  and  shredded, 
the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  eight  eggs,  two  saltspoonfuls 
of  nutmeg  grated,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  pint  of  milk, 
two  wineglassfuls  of  Brandy. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  stir  in  the 
well-beaten  eggs,  milk  and  brandy,  turn  the  mixture  into  two 
well-buttered  bowls,  steam  from  five  to  six  hours. 

Corn  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  tablespoon  fuls  of  Indian  meal,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-grated  lemon  rind,  six  eggs,  two  pints  of  milk. 

METHOD. — Mix  the  meal  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  up  the 
remainder,  add  the  meal,  sugar,  and  lemon  rind,  stir  and  cook 
gently  for  a  few  minutes.  When  cool,  add  the  well-beaten 
eggs,  half  fill  well-buttered  cups  with  the  mixture,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Cornflour  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
cornflour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  four  eggs,  two 
pinches  of  salt,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
boil  the  remainder,  and  add  to  it  the  cornflour,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  and  boil  gently  until  it  thick- 
ens, then  cool  slightly.  Add  the  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  salt  and 
lemon  rind,  and  stir  for  two  or  three  minutes  by  the  side 
of  the  fire.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  lightly  add  them 
to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and 
bake  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 


260  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cranberry  Pudding. 
(See  apple  pudding,  and  damson  pudding.) 

Cream  Buns. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Choux  paste,  one  pint  of  cream,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Shape  the  paste  as  directed  in  the  receipe  for 
Coffee  Eclairs,  and  bake  them  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 
When  cool,  make  an  incision  on  one  side,  scoop  out  the  soft 
interior,  and  fill  them  with  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream. 
Dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Croquets  of  Rice. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  Carolina  rice,  four  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter,  lemon  rind,  about  three 
pints  of  milk,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  whole  eggs,  breadcrumbs, 
frying-fat,  salt. 

METHOD. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  two  pints  of  milk,  two  good  pinches  of  salt,  a  little  thin 
lemon  rind  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  tender,  adding  more 
milk  as  required.  When  done,  take  out  the  lemon  rind,  add 
the  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  until  suffi- 
ciently cooked,  then  spread  the  mixture  on  a  plate.  When 
ready,  form  into  pear  or  cork  shapes,  coat  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  well, 
dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  with  a  fruit  syrup  or 
suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Currant  Pudding,  Boiled. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  currants,  cleaned,  one  pound 
of  suet  finely  chopped,  two  pounds  of  flour,  milk,  lemon,  but- 
ter, sugar. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  and  add  suffi- 
cient milk  to  form  a  stiff  batter.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
floured  cloth,  boil  gently  for  two  and  a  half  hours,  and  serve 
with  a  cut  lemon,  fresh  butter  and  sugar.  For  directions  for 
making  a  pudding  of  fresh  fruit,  see  apple  pudding,  boiled, 
and  damson  pudding. 

Custard  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pint  of  milk,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of 
loaf  or  castor  sugar,  four  eggs. 

METHOD. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  sugar  and  milk, 
and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Strain  into  a  buttered 
pie-dish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  set  (about  thirty  min- 
utes.) When  the  oven  is  too  hot  the  dish  should  be  placed 
in  a  tin  of  water,  to  prevent  the  custard  baking  too  quickly. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  261 

Custard  Pudding  Baked.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  butter,  four  eggs, 
lemon  rind,  bay  leaves  or  laurel  leaves  for  flavoring,  two 
pinches  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

METHOD. —  Simmer  the  milk  with  the  flavoring  ingredient 
for  about  twenty  minutes,  then  remove  the  lemon  rind,  or  what- 
ever has  been  used,  and  put  in  the  butter  and  sugar.  Mix  the 
flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk  or  water,  pour  it  into  the 
stewpan,  stir  until  it  boils,  cook  for  five  minutes,  then  cool  a 
little.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
pour  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  about 
forty  minutes,  or  until  set. 

Custard  Pudding,  Steamed. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pint  of  milk,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of 
castor  sugar,  six  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla  or 
other  flavoring. 

METHOD. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  milk  and  vanilla 
essence,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  pour  the  mixture 
into  a  buttered  bowl,  and  steam  VERY  GENTLY  for  half  an  hour. 
Serve  with  wine  sauce.  A  very  nice  pudding  may  be  made  with 
the  same  quantity  of  milk,  half  the  quantity  of  sugar,  and  two 
eggs,  but  it  must  be  served  in  the  bowl. 

Custard  Pie. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  quarts  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
.sugar  (or  to  taste)  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  cornflour,  six 
eggs,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  or  other  flavoring,  salt,  paste. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
simmer  the  remainder  with  the  lemon  rind  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  then  remove  the  lemon  rind  and  add  the  milk  to  the 
cornflour,  stirring  all  the  time.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  stir 
and  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes,  add  the  sugar  and  two 
pinches  of  salt,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool  slightly.  Mean- 
while beat  the  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients. 
Line  two  deep  dishes  or  twelve  deep  patty-pans  with  paste,  pour 
in  the  custard,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  the 
paste  is  sufficiently  cooked  and  the  custard  set.  If  the  oven  has 
not  a  good  bottom  heat  the  paste  should  be  partially  baked 
before  putting  in  the  custard. 

Damson  Tart. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  three  pints  of  damsons,  four 
heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar,  or  to  taste. 


262  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

METHOD. —  Prepare  the  crust  as  directed  for  apple  tart.  In 
the  center  of  the  pie-dish  place  an  inverted  cup  or  a  ventilat- 
ing cup  and  funnel  to  retain  the  juice,  half  fill  the  dish  with 
fruit,  add  the  sugar,  then  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  fruit. 
Cover  with  paste,  brush  lightly  over  with  cold  water,  sprinkle 
liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Eclairs. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Choux  paste,  chocolate  or  coffee  icing,  cream, 
custard  or  jam. 

METHOD. — Put  the  choux  paste  into  a  forcing-bag,  and  press 
it  out  on  to  a  buttered  baking-sheet  in  the  form  of  small  savoy 
biscuits.  Or  if  a  bag  and  pipe  are  not  available,  roll  it  on  a 
floured  board  to  the  same  shape.  Bake  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  let  them  cool  on  a  sieve,  then 
make  an  incision  on  the  side  of  them  and  scoop  out  the  soft 
interior.  Fill  the  cavities  with  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream, 
confectioners'  custard  or  jam,  and  coat  them  with  chocolate  or 
coffee  icing. 

Filbert  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Paste,  six  ounces  of  filberts,  two  ounces  of 
ground  almonds,  six  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  one  ounce  of  corn- 
flour, eight  yolks  of  eggs,  one  gill  of  cream  or  milk. 

METHOD. —  Blanch  and  peel  the  nuts  and  chop  them  finely. 
Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  the  milk,  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  it  thickens.  Cream  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar 
together  until  thick  and  smooth,  add  the  prepared  nuts  and  al- 
monds, then  stir  in  the  cornflour  and  milk.  Put  the  mixture 
into  twelve  patty-pans  lined  with  paste,  fix  two  thin  strips  of 
paste  across  each  tartlet,  brush  over  with  milk,  and  dredge  with 
castor  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Flan  of  Apples. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  or  eight  apples,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
moist  sugar,  four  tablespoonfuls,  of  sherry,  eight  cloves,  four 
whites  of  eggs,  castor  sugar,  one  pound  of  short  crust. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core,  and  cut  each  apple  into  eight  sections, 
place  them  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  cloves  and  sherry,  cover 
closely,  stand  the  stewpan  in  a  tin  containing  boiling  water, 
and  cook  until  tender,  but  not  sufficiently  so  as  to  break  easily. 
Meanwhile  line  a  six-inch  diameter  flan  or  paste-ring  with  paste 
rolled  out  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  fill  it  with 
rice,  placed  on  an  interlining  of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  263 

quick  oven.  When  done,  remove  the  rice  and  paper,  fill  with 
the  apples,  arranged  in  a  pyramid,  strain  the  juice  (if  any) 
over  them,  and  sprinkle  well  with  sugar.  Whip  the  whites  of 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  spread  it  lightly  over  the  apples,  dredge 
well  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  cool  oven  until  lightly- 
browned.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

There  are  two  ways  of  making  a  flan  without  the  aid  of  a 
ring.  The  first  is  by  means  of  a  round  cake-tin.  The  tin  is 
placed  in  the  center  of  the  rolled-out  paste,  which  is  cut  round, 
leaving  a  margin  of  about  one  inch,  to  be  afterwards  raised  and 
molded  to  the  shape  of  the  tin.  Before  removing  the  tin,  a 
narrow-folded  band  of  greased  paper  must  be  pinned  lightly 
round  this  raised  border.  In  the  second  method,  the  bottom 
is  cut  out  to  the  required  size,  and  a  narrow  strip  of  paste 
fastened  to  the  edge  of  it  by  means  of  white  of  egg.  A  band 
of  paper  must  support  the  border;  and  in  both  cases  the  inside 
should  be  filled  with  rice  before  baking. 

Flan  of  Pineapple. 

INGREDIENTS. —  A  preserved  pineapple,  castor  sugar,  four 
eggs,  one  pound  of  short  crust. 

METHOD. —  Prepare  and  bake  the  flan  as  for  Apple  Flan. 
Cut  the  pineapple  into  dice  and  remove  all  the  specks.  Strain 
the  syrup,  place  half  a  pint  of  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  sugar,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and  simmer  for  three 
or  four  minutes.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  add  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  and  cook  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they 
thicken,  stirring  meanwhile.  Now  place  the  pineapple  in  the 
prepared  flan,  cover  with  the  custard,  and  spread  the  stiffly- 
whipped  whites  of  eggs  on  the  top.  Bake  in  a  moderately  cool 
oven  until  the  meringue  hardens,  and  browns  slightly.  Serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Flan  of  Strawberries. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  strawberries,  castor  sugar, 
four  whites  of  eggs,  one  pound  of  short  crust. 

METHOD. —  Make  the  flan  as  directed;  when  about  three- 
quarters  baked  remove  the  rice,  and  fill  with  strawberries  from 
which  the  stalks  have  been  removed.  Pile  the  fruit  high  in 
the  center,  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  cover  with 
stiffly-whisked  white  of  egg.  Cover  the  surface  lightly  with 
castor  sugar,  replace  in  the  oven,  and  bake  slowly  for  about 
fifteen  minutes.  When  the  meringue  is  set,  cover  with  paper 


264  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

to  prevent  it  browning  too  much  before  the  strawberries  are 
sufficiently  cooked.     Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Fluted  Rolls. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Puff  paste,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Roll  out  the  puff  paste,  dredge  it  well  with 
castor  sugar,  and  fold  as  usual.  Repeat  this  twice,  then  roll 
it  out  to  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  stamp 
out  some  rounds  with  a  fluted  two-inch  cutter.  Roll  them  up, 
brush  lightly  over  with  water,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 

Frangipane. 

Whisk  half  a  dozen  eggs  until  they  are  very  light,  and  add 
carefully  a  pint  of  milk  and  two  spoonfuls  of  flour.  Place  in  a 
double  saucepan  —  or  in  a  large  bowl  immersed  in  a  saucepan 
of  water  —  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  stir  till  the 
custard  becomes  moderately  thick,  adding  gradually  two  ounces 
of  butter,  two  ounces  of  crushed  macaroon  biscuits,  the  grated 
rind  of  a  small  lemon,  and  a  wineglassful  of  rum.  When 
nearly  done  stir  in  a  spoonful  of  essence  of  vanilla. 

This  is  served  cold  in  custard  cups,  and  is  sometimes  made 
into  little  tarts  with  puff  paste. 

Frangipan  Tart. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  crust,  eight  eggs,  three  ounces  of 
butter,  three  ounces  of  sugar,  one-half  ounce  of  flour,  one 
pint  of  milk,  two  bay-leaves,  four  or  six  fine  strips  of  lemon 
rind,  nutmeg. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  milk,  simmer  the  re- 
mainder with  the  bay-leaves,  lemon  rind,  and  two  pinches  of 
nutmeg,  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  it  on  the  blended 
flour  and  milk,  stirring  meanwhile.  Return  to  the  stewpan, 
add  the  butter,  sugar,  and  slightly-beaten  eggs,  and  stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil.  Line  a  tart-tin  with  the  paste,  pour  in  the  preparation 
when  cool,  and  bake  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Serve  cold. 

Fruit  or  Jam  Turnovers. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  crust  or  puff  paste,  stewed  fruit  or 
jam,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  rounds 
about  four  inches  in  diameter.  Place  a  little  fruit  or  jam  in 
the  center  of  each  round,  moisten  the  edges  with  water,  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  265 

fold  the  paste  over  on  three  sides  in  the  form  of  a  triangle. 
Seal  the  join  carefully,  turn  them  over,  brush  lightly  with  cold 
water,  and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Geneva  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  pounds  of  sour  cooking  apples,  six 
ounces  of  rice,  two  ounces  of  butter,  sugar,  about  three  pints  of 
milk,  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  place  it  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  pints  of  milk,  and  two  good  pinches  of  salt,  cook  un- 
til tender,  adding  more  milk  as  required,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
While  the  rice  is  cooking,  pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  place 
them  with  the  butter,  cinnamon,  and  two  good  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  in  a  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  half  full  of  boil- 
ing water,  cook  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Butter  a  fireproof  china  souffle  dish,  arrange  the  rice  and  apple 
puree  in  alternate  layers,  letting  rice  form  the  bottom  and  top 
layers,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  thirty-five  to  forty 
minutes. 

Gingerbread  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  flour,  one-half  pound  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  one  pound  of  treacle,  two  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  ginger,  one-half 
pint  of  milk,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  flour,  suet,  ginger,  baking-powder,  and  a 
good  pinch  of  salt  well  together.  Add  the  milk,  treacle  and 
well-beaten  egg,  mix  thoroughly,  then  turn  into  a  well-greased 
mold  or  bowl,  and  steam  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours. 
Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Golden  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  eight  ounces 
of  finely-chopped  suet,  eight  ounces  of  marmalade,  four  ounces 
of  sugar,  four  eggs,  milk,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  sugar,  and  two  good 
pinches  of  salt  well  together.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the 
marmalade  and  milk,  stir  into  the  dry  ingredients,  and  when 
well  mixed  turn  into  a  greased  mold  or  bowl.  Cover  with  a 
greased  paper,  steam  from  two  to  two  and  a  quarter  hours, 
and  serve  with  cornflour,  marmalade  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Gooseberry  Pudding,  Baked. 
INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pints  of  gooseberries,  one  pint  of  bread- 


266  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

crumbs,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  or  to  taste,  three  ounces  of  but- 
ter, six  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Cut  off  the  tops  and  tails  of  the  gooseberries, 
cook  them  until  tender  in  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  containing 
boiling  water,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  to  the  goose- 
berry puree  the  breadcrumbs,  butter,  sugar,  and  the  eggs  well 
beaten.  Have  ready  a  pie-dish  with  the  edge  lined  with  paste, 
pour  in  the  preparation,  bake  for  about  forty  minutes,  or  until 
set,  then  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Gooseberry  Tart. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pints  of  gooseberries,  one-half  pound 
of  short  crust,  one-half  pound  of  moist  sugar. 

METHOD. —  With  a  pair  of  scissors  cut  off  the  tops  and  tails 
of  the  gooseberries ;  put  them  into  a  deep  pie-dish,  pile  the  fruit 
high  in  the  center,  and  put  in  the  sugar;  line  the  edge  of  the 
dish  with  short  crust,  put  on  the  cover,  and  ornament  the  edges 
of  the  tart;  bake  in  a  good  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  and  before  serving  dredge  with  castor  sugar. 

Granville  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  six  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four 
ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked, 
two  ounces  of  ground  rice,  two  ounces  of  finely-shredded  can- 
died peel,  six  ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  two  ounces  of  desiccated 
cocoanut,  four  whites  of  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
lemon  essence,  transparent  icing. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick 
and  smooth,  add  the  currants,  ground  rice,  peel,  cakecrumbs, 
cream,  eight  or  ten  drops  of  lemon  essence,  and  lastly,  the 
stiffly-whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Line  eighteen  small  oval  tart- 
let molds  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  and  bake 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
cool,  mask  the  tartlets  with  icing,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
desiccated  cocoanut. 

Italian  Pudding. 

Crush  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  any  sweet  biscuits  with  six 
macaroons,  and  mince  finely  two  ounces  of  candied  peel,  an 
ounce  of  sultanas,  and  one  ounce  of  pistachio  nuts  or  almonds. 
Bind  thoroughly  with  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  and  the  whites  of 
three,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  small  glass  of  rum. 
When  thoroughly  mixed  place  the  whole  in  a  buttered  mold 
and  cook  in  a  bain-marie  for  about  an  hour. 

With  this  should  be  served  a  sauce  made  in  the  following 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  267 

manner :  —  Mix  in  an  enameled  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  sugar, 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  rum,  a  little  grated  lemon  peel,  and  a 
few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla.  When  thoroughly  hot  set  it 
on  fire,  and  about  five  seconds  afterwards  extinguish  by  putting 
the  lid  on  the  saucepan.  Then  add  the  juice  of  one  orange 
and  pass  the  whole  through  a  strainer. 

Jam  Profiterolles. 

Heat  without  boiling  half  a  pint  of  milk,  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter and  an  ounce  of  sugar.  When  thoroughly  blended  stir  in  a 
spoonful  of  orange-flower  water  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  a 
moderately  stiff  paste.  Next  add  three  beaten  eggs,  then  form 
the  paste  into  balls  as  large  as  a  small  orange,  and  bake  them 
in  a  cool  oven.  When  crisp  take  them  out,  and  after  cooling 
split  each  ball  and  fill  the  interior  with  jam  or  whipped  cream. 

Kleiner. 

Beat  two  whole  eggs  with  the  yolks  of  six  others  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar.  When  thoroughly  blended 
stir  in  an  ounce  of  melted  butter  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  and  then  work  in  nearly  one  pound  of  flour.  If  the 
eggs  happen  to  be  very  small  it  will  not  be  practical  to  use  so 
much  flour.  Thoroughly  knead  and  then  roll  out  very  thin, 
sprinkling  a  little  more  flour  as  you  roll  the  paste.  Cut  into  ob- 
long pieces  from  three  to  four  inches  in  length,  make  a  slit 
in  the  middle  of  each  and  twist  one  end  through  it.  Throw 
into  boiling  fat  and  cook  until  they  are  a  golden  brown. 

Lemon  Cheesecakes. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  one- 
half  pound  of  butter,  twelve  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  four 
lemons  and  the  juice  of  six,  finely-shredded  candied  peel. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  sugar,  butter,  lemon  rind  and  strained 
lemon  juice  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  them  to  the  contents  of 
the  stewpan,  and  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  the  mixture  thick- 
ens. Let  it  remain  in  a  cool  dry  place  until  required.  Line 
the  patty-pans  with  paste,  three-quarters  fill  them  with  the 
preparation,  add  a  few  strips  of  candied  peel,  and  bake  for 
about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Lemon  Pudding,  Baked. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  lemons,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  six  sponge  cakes,  six  eggs,  one  pint  of 
milk,  paste. 


268  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  milk,  butter,  sugar  and  grated  lemon  rind 
into  a  stewpan,  boil  up,  let  it  infuse  for  about  fifteen  minutes, 
then  pour  over  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stirring  mean- 
while. Add  the  crumbled  sponge  cakes  and  lemon  juice,  mix 
well  together,  and  pour  into  a  pie-dish,  the  edges  of  which 
must  be  previously  lined  and  decorated  with  the  paste.  (See 
Apple  Amber.)  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  thirty  to  thirty- 
five  minutes,  or  until  the  mixture  is  set,  then  cover  with  the 
stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  dredge  liberally  with  castor 
sugar.  Replace  in  the  oven  until  the  meringue  hardens  and 
acquires  a  little  color. 

Lemon  Pudding,  Boiled. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces 
of  flour,  eight  ounces  of  finely-chopped  suet,  eight  ounces  of 
sugar,  four  lemons,  four  eggs,  milk. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  flour,  suet,  and  sugar  to- 
gether, add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  the  lemon  juice,  and 
the  finely-grated  rinds,  add  milk  gradually  until  a  stiff  yet 
thoroughly  moistened  mixture  is  formed.  Turn  into  a  but- 
tered bowl  and  steam  for  about  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours. 
Serve  with  cornflour  or  sweet  melted-butter  sauce. 

Lemon  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  eight  ounces  of  butter,  eight 
ounces  of  castor  sugar,  six  yolks  of  eggs,  two  lemons. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  beat 
each  yolk  of  egg  in  separately,  and  add  the  juice  of  the  lemon 
and  the  rind  finely  grated.  Let  the  mixture  stand  in  a  cool, 
dry  place  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  then  bake  in  patty- 
pans, previously  lined  with  the  short  paste. 

Lemon  Tartlets.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  eight  lemons,  eight  ounces  of 
loaf  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  blanched  finely-shredded  almonds. 

METHOD. —  Pare  the  lemons  thickly,  boil  the  fruit  in  two  or 
three  waters  until  tender,  then  pound  or  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  sugar,  almonds  and 
lemon  juice,  and  boil  until  a  thick  syrup  is  obtained.  Line  ten 
or  twelve  patty-pans  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  preparation, 
and  bake  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Macaroni  or  Spaghetti  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  ounces  of  macaroni  or  spaghetti,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  two  pints  of  milk,  four 
eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  or  other  flavoring,  salt. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  269 

METHOD. —  Break  the  macaroni  or  spaghetti  into  half-inch 
lengths,  put  them  with  two  pinches  of  salt  into  the  milk  when 
boiling,  and  simmer  until  tender.  Add  the  sugar,  butter, 
lemon  rind  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stir  in  the 
mixture  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil.  Lastly,  add  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs,  then 
turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  slowly 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 

Madeira  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  bread  in  small  dice,  four 
ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  two  wine- 
glassfuls  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  grated 
lemon  rind. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  bread,  sugar  and  lemon  rind  together  in 
a  bowl.  Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  on  the  beaten  eggs,  stirring 
meanwhile,  add  the  sherry,  and  pour  over  the  dice  of  bread, 
etc.  Let  it  soak  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  pour  into  a 
buttered  mold,  and  steam  gently  for  two  hours.  Serve  with 
custard,  or  wine  sauce,  or  jam  syrup. 

Maids  of  Honor. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Puff  paste,  eight  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  four 
ounces  of  Jordan  almonds,  one  ounce  of  fine  flour,  four  yolks  of 
eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
orange-flower  water. 

METHOD. —  Blanch  and  dry  the  almonds,  and  pound  them  in 
a  mortar  with  the  sugar  until  fine.  Add  the  yolks  of  eggs  one 
at  a  time,  and  mix  in  the  flour,  cream  and  orange-flower  water. 
Line  eight  or  nine  small  tartlet  molds  with  paste,  fill  them  with 
the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mid-Lent   Fritters. 

Boil  three  cupfuls  of  milk  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a 
little  sugar,  and  then  blend  it  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and 
sufficient  semolina  to  make  the  whole  into  a  tolerably  firm 
paste.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  any  other  flavoring 
essence  that  is  preferred.  Form  the  paste  into  rings,  dust  with 
flour,  and  fry  in  lard.  They  should  be  sprinkled  with  sugar 
before  serving,  and  are  usually  eaten  with  gooseberry  jam. 

Mincemeat. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  finely-chopped  suet,  two 
pounds  of  currants,  washed  and  picked,  two  pounds  of  raisins, 
stoned  and  quartered,  two  pounds  of  chopped  apples,  two 


270  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

pounds  of  castor  sugar,  one  pound  of  sultanas,  one-half  pound 
of  shredded  mixed  candied  peel,  four  lemons,  one  gill  of  brandy, 
one  saltspoonful  each  of  nutmeg,  mace  and  cinnamon. 

METHOD. —  Pare  the  lemons  thinly,  simmer  the  rinds  in  a 
little  water  until  perfectly  tender,  then  pound  them  or  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether, press  into  a  jar,  cover  closely,  and  keep  in  a  cool  dry 
place  for  at  least  one  month  before  using. 

Mincemeat.     (Another   Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  finely-chopped  apples,  two 
pounds  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked,  one  and  a  half  pounds 
of  finely-chopped  suet,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  raisins,  stoned 
and  quartered,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  castor  sugar,  one-half 
pound  of  finely-shredded  mixed  candied  peel,  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  four  lemons,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  ground 
cloves,  mace  and  nutmeg,  mixed  in  equal  proportions,  one-half 
pint  of  brandy. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  these  ingredients  well  together,  press 
them  into  a  jar,  cover  closely  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  place  un- 
til required.  It  should  be  kept  for  one  month  at  least  before 
being  used. 

Mincemeat.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  chopped  apples,  one  and  a 
half  pounds  of  currants,  washed  and  picked,  one  pound  of 
raisins,  stoned  and  quartered,  one  pound  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
one  pound  of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  chopped  candied 
peel,  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  two  saltspoonfuls 
of  grated  nutmeg. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  these  ingredients  well  together,  and  keep 
in  closely-covered  jars  in  a  cool  dry  place,  until  required. 

Mincemeat,  Lemon. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  large  lemons,  twelve  large  apples,  one 
pound  of  suet,  two  pounds  of  currants,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
four  ounces  of  candied  lemon  peel,  two  ounces  of  citron,  mixed 
spice  to  taste. 

METHOD. —  Pare  the  lemons,  squeeze  them,  and  boil  the  peel 
until  it  is  tender  enough  to  mash.  Add  to  the  mashed  lemon 
peel  the  apples,  which  should  be  pared,  cored  and  minced,  the 
chopped  suet,  currants,  sugar,  sliced  peel  and  spice.  Strain 
the  lemon  juice  into  these  ingredients,  stir  the  mixture  well, 
and  put  it  in  a  jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid.  Stir  occasionally, 
and  in  a.  week  or  ten  days  the  mincemeat  will  be  ready  for 
use, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  271 

Mince  Pies. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Puff  paste,  mincemeat. 

METHOD. —  When  the  paste  has  had  the  necessary  number 
of  turns,  roll  it  out  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
and  line  some  large-sized  patty-pans  with  it.  Fill  with  mince- 
meat, cover  with  paste,  brush  over  lightly  with  cold  water,  and 
dredge  with  castor  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes,  and  serve  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Nouille  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  nouille  paste,  sixteen  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  finely- 
shredded  mixed  candied  peel,  twelve  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vanilla  essence. 

METHOD. —  Roll  the  nouille  paste  out  thinly,  cut  it  into  fine 
strips,  put  them  into  rapidly  boiling  salted  water,  to  which  the 
butter  has  been  added,  cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  drain  well. 
Meanwhile  cream  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  together 
until  thick  and  smooth,  add  the  peel,  vanilla  essence,  the 
nouilles  when  sufficiently  cool,  and  lastly,  the  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  eggs.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mold,  cover  with  a 
buttered  paper,  and  steam  from  one  and  a  quarter  to  one  and 
three-quarter  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Oatmeal  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  oatmeal,  two  des- 
sertspoonfuls of  flour,  two  and  a  half  pints  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
salt. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  oatmeal  and  flour  smoothly  with  a  little 
cold  milk,  boil  up  the  remainder,  and  add  the  blended  oatmeal 
and  flour.  Stir  and  boil  gently  for  five  minutes,  add  salt  to 
taste,  and  when  cool,  put  in  the  egg.  Turn  the  whole  into 
a  buttered  pie-dish,  bake  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve 
with  cream  and  sugar,  or  golden  syrup. 

Open  Tart  of  Strawberry  or  Any  Other  Kind  of  Preserve. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Trimmings  of  puff  paste,  any  kind  of  jam. 

METHOD. —  Butter  a  tart-pan  of  the  usual  shape,  roll  out  the 
paste  to  the  thickness  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  and  line  the 
pan  with  it,  prick  a  few  holes  at  the  bottom  with  a  fork  to 
prevent  the  paste  rising  and  blistering,  and  bake  the  tart  in  a 
brisk  oven  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Let  the  paste  cool  a 
little;  then  fill  it  with  preserve,  place  on  it  a  few  stars  or 
leaves,  which  -have  been  previously  cut  out  of  paste  and  baked, 


272  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  the  tart  is  ready  for  table.  By  making  the  tart  in  this 
manner,  both  the  flavor  and  the  color  of  the  jam  are  pre- 
served, which  would  be  spoiled,  were  it  baked  in  the  oven  on 
the  paste,  and  less  jam  is  required. 

Orange  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  good  oranges,  six  ounces  of  butter,  six 
ounces  of  sugar,  six  yolks  of  eggs,  two  whites  of  eggs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  and  short  paste. 

METHOD. —  Remove  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  as  thinly  as  pos- 
sible, and  chop  them  finely.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well 
together,  beat  each  yolk  in  separately,  add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  orange  juice,  the  orange  rind  and  vanilla  essence.  Whisk 
the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  add  it  lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  in- 
gredients and  pour  the  mixture  into  the  tartlet  molds,  pre- 
viously lined  with  paste.  Bake  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  three-quarters  baked,  dredge 
them  well  with  castor  sugar. 

Orange  Tartlets.     (Another  Method.) 

INGREDIENTS. —  The  finely-grated  rind  of  four  oranges,  the 
juice  of  two  oranges,  six  ounces  of  butter,  six  ounces  of  castor 
sugar,  three  ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  four  eggs,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  cornflour,  short  paste. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  beat 
each  yolk  in  separately,  add  the  grated  orange  peel,  cornflour 
and  orange  juice  previously  mixed  smoothly  together,  the  cake- 
crumbs,  and  lastly,  the  stiffly-whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  ten  or  twelve  tartlet-tins  previously  lined 
with  paste,  and  bake  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven.  When  cold,  mask  with  the  icing  prepared  as  below. 

Parisian  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  six  ounces  of  butter,  six  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  two  ounces  of 
cornflour,  two  ounces  of  ground  almonds,  four  small  eggs,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice, 
one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together  until 
thick  and  smooth,  add  the  eggs  separately  and  beat  well.  Mix 
the  cream  and  cornflour  smoothly  together,  stir  the  ingredients 
into  the  mixture,  add  the  ground  almonds,  cakecrumbs,  cinna- 
mon and  lemon  juice,  and  mix  well  together.  Line  twelve 
tartlet-molds  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  preparation  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  273 

When    about    three-quarters    baked,  dredge    them    well    with 
castor  sugar. 

Pastry  Sandwiches. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Pastry  trimmings,  jam,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Knead  the  trimmings  lightly  into  a  smooth  round 
ball  and  roll  out  very  thinly,  keeping  the  shape  as  square  as 
possible.  Spread  jam  evenly  over  one-half,  fold  the  other 
half  over,  wet  the  edges,  and  press  them  lightly  together. 
Brush  over  with  water,  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and 
with  the  back  of  knife  blade  mark  the  paste  across  in  lines 
about  one  inch  apart.  Bake  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  when  cold  cut  the  paste  into  strips.  If 
preferred,  currants,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  sugar  and 
shredded  candied  peel,  may  be  used  instead  of  jam. 

Compote  of  Pears. 

Cut  a  French  roll  into  thin  slices,  toast  or  bake  until  a 
golden  brown  and  perfectly  dry,  after  which  crush  the  slices 
to  a  coarse  powder.  Place  in  an  earthenware  cooking  pot  or 
an  enameled  sauce-pan  with  three  pints  of  water,  two  crushed 
cloves,  and  eight  large  pears  previously  peeled,  cored,  and 
sliced.  Cover  and  let  the  whole  cook  gently  for  an  hour,  after 
which  press  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  back  into  the  cooking- 
vessel  with  a  glass  of  Sauterne  or  other  white  wine,  the  juice 
of  one  lemon,  and  two  ounces  of  sugar.  Stir  well  and  let  it 
simmer  for  another  twenty  minutes,  after  which  pour  into  a 
large  bowl  or  glass  dish  and  place  upon  the  ice. 

This  is  usually  eaten  very  cold  and  with  sponge  cakes  and 
cream. 

Pfeffernusse. 

Mix  together  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  half  a  spoonful  of  ground  cloves,  one  grated  nut- 
meg, about  three  ounces  of  citron  very  finely  minced,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Now  blend  thoroughly  with 
one  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  work  in  four  whipped  eggs  and 
one  pound  of  castor  sugar.  Make  this  into  small  balls  and 
place  them  in  a  buttered  baking-dish  not  too  close  together, 
as  they  should  swell  considerably  in  the  cooking.  Bake  them 
carefully  in  a  slow  oven. 

Picatostes. 

Cut  some  slices  of  stale  bread  into  strips  about  the  thickness 
of  a  finger.  Soak  in  water,  and  after  draining  for  a  moment 


274  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

place  in  a  cooking  pot,  cover,  and  heat  until  the  slices  swell  up. 
Then  fry  them  in  oil  or  other  'fat.  These  are  usually  eaten  with 
butter. 

Cossack  Plum  Pudding. 

One  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  stoned 
raisins,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fat  of  salt  pork  (well 
washed  and  cut  into  small  dices  or  chopped),  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar  or  treacle,  add  one-half  pint  of  water,  mix  all 
together,  put  into  a  cloth  tied  tightly.  Boil  for  four  hours  and 
serve.  If  time  will  not  admit,  boil  only  for  two  hours.  How 
to  spoil  the  above.  Add  anything  to  it. 
Plum  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. — Twelve  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  ounces  of 
breadcrumbs,  twelve  ounces  of  finely-chopped  suet,  twelve 
ounces  of  moist  sugar,  twelve  ounces  of  raisins,  halved  and 
stoned,  twelve  ounces  of  currants,  washed  and  dried,  two 
heaped  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  two  saltspoonfuls  of 
salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  ground  mace,  one  saltspoonful  of 
grated  nutmeg,  about  one  pint  of  milk. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  add 
sufficient  milk  into  a  very  stiff  batter,  and  turn  into  a  well- 
greased  bowl.  Boil  for  six  hours,  or  steam  for  at  least  seven 
hours. 

Pound  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  finely-chopped  suet,  two 
pounds  of  currants,  cleaned,  two  pounds  of  raisins,  stoned,  one 
pound  of  breadcrumbs,  one  pound  of  flour,  four  ounces  of 
shredded  mixed  peel,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  ginger,  one 
grated  nutmeg,  one  pint  of  milk,  eight  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  add  a 
little  more  milk  if  necessary.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mold 
and  boil  for  three  and  a  half  to  four  hours. 

Polish  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Puff  paste  trimmings,  raspberry  and  apricot 
jam,  chopped  pistachios,  grated  cocoanut. 

METHOD. —  Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  cut  it  into  two  and  a 
half  inch  squares,  moisten  each  corner,  fold  them  over  to  meet 
in  the  center,  and  cover  the  joint  with  a  small  round  of  paste. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 
When  cold  place  a  little  jam  at  each  corner,  and  sprinkle 
cocoanut  on  the  raspberry  jam,  and  a  little  finely-grated  pis- 
tachio nut  on  the  apricot  jam. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  275 

Prune  Tarts. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  and  a  half  pounds  of  prunes,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cranberry  juice,  sugar  to  taste,  short  paste. 

METHOD. —  Scald  the  prunes,  remove  the  stones,  and  take 
out  the  kernels;  put  the  fruit  and  kernels  into  the  cranberry 
juice,  and  add  the  sugar;  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  when  cold 
make  the  tarts.  Any  stone  fruit  can  be  cooked  in  the  same 
way. 

Pumpkin  Pie. 

INGREDIENTS. —  To  every  quart  of  pumpkin,  strained,  allow  six 
eggs,  one-quarter  pound  of  butter,  one-half  pint  of  sweet  milk, 
one-half  pound  of  white  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  French 
brandy,  one  gill  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  paste. 

METHOD. —  Cut  the  pumpkin  into  large  pieces;  peel  these, 
and  put  them  into  cold  water  over  a  very  slow  fire;  simmer, 
without  boiling,  until  every  piece  is  tender,  then  strain  through 
a  colander,  and  afterwards  through  coarse  muslin.  To  every 
quart  of  the  pumpkin  add  the  ingredients  given  above,  the  eggs 
previously  beaten  till  thick  and  light,  and  the  butter  and  sugar 
stirred  to  a  cream.  When  well  mixed,  bake  in  a  pie-dish  lined 
and  covered  with  paste. 

Puff  Paste  Rings  with  Jam. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Puff  paste  trimmings,  jam,  white  of  egg, 
castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Roll  the  paste  out  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  stamp  out  an  equal  number  of  rounds  two  and 
a  half  and  one  and  three-quarter  inches  in  diameter.  Brush 
the  larger  rounds  over  with  white  of  egg;  stamp  out  the  cen- 
ter of  the  smaller  rounds,  thus  forming  them  into  rings,  one 
of  which  must  be  pressed  lightly  on  the  top  of  each  round  of 
paste.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  when  cold  fill 
with  jam. 

Queen's  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  finely-chopped  suet,  four 
ounces  of  castor  sugar,  twelve  bananas  sliced,  six  eggs,  two 
breakfast-cupfuls  of  wholemeal,  two  breakfast-cupfuls  of  boil- 
ing milk. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  suet,  sugar,  bananas  and  meal  together, 
add  the  milk,  and  cover  closely.  Let  the  preparation  stand  for 
at  least  one  hour,  then  add  the  eggs  and  a  little  more  milk  if 
at  all  stiff,  and  beat  well.  Turn  into  a  buttered  bowl,  steam 
gently  for  about  one  hour,  and  serve  with  wine  sauce. 


276  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Raspberry  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  two  pints  of  raspberries,  one 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  one-half  pint  of  water,  one  glass  of 
brandy  (optional),  desiccated  cocoanut. 

METHOD. —  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  reduced 
to  a  syrup,  add  the  raspberries,  and  cook  gently  for  a  few 
minutes.  Drain,  replace  the  syrup  in  the  stewpan,  boil  rapidly 
until  considerably  reduced,  then  let  it  cool,  and  add  the  brandy. 
Line  ten  or  twelve  patty-pans  with  paste,  fill  them  with  rice, 
placed  in  buttered  papers,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
until  crisp.  When  cool,  fill  them  with  the  prepared  fruit,  add 
an  equal  portion  of  syrup  to  each  tartlet  with  cocoanut,  and 
serve  cold. 

Red  Currant  and  Raspberry  Tart. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pints  of  red  currants,  one  pint  of  rasp- 
berries, four  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  short  crust. 

METHOD. —  Strip  the  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  half  of 
them  into  a  pie-dish  with  an  inverted  cup  in  the  midst,  add  the 
sugar  and  raspberries,  then  the  remainder  of  the  currants, 
piling  them  rather  high  in  the  center.  Cover  with  paste,  brush 
lightly  over  with  water,  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar  and  bake 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  moderate  oven. 

Rice  Fritters. 

Take  a  pint  of  milk,  five  ounces  of  rice  flour,  an  ounce  of 
crushed  macaroons,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  the 
grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  make  into  a  batter.  Stir  well 
over  the  fire,  add  three  beaten  eggs,  and  let  the  whole  cool. 
When  nearly  cold  form  the,  batter  into  balls,  roll  them  in 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  till  a  golden  brown.  Sprinkle  thickly 
with  powdered  sugar  before  serving. 

Roly-Poly  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of 
finely-chopped  suet,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  two  salt- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  four  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  jam. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  flour,  suet,  baking-powder  and  salt  into 
a  stiff  paste  with  a  little  cold  water.  Roll  it  into  a  long  piece 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  spread  on  the  jam  to  within 
one  inch  of  the  edge,  and  moisten  the  sides  and  far  end  with 
water.  Roll  up  lightly,  seal  the  edges,  wrap  the  pudding  in 
a  scalded  pudding-cloth,  and  secure  the  ends  with  string.  Boil 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  or  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for 
half  that  length  of  time. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  277 

St.  Cloud  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Short  paste,  puff  paste  or  puff  paste  trim- 
mings, one  pound  of  greengage  jam,  castor  sugar,  vanilla 
sugar,  one  gill  of  cream,  glace  cherries,  angelica. 

METHOD. —  Line  the  patty-pans  with  short  paste,  brush  the 
edges  lightly  over  with  beaten  egg  or  water,  and  sprinkle  with 
castor  sugar.  Fill  them  with  jam,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Roll  the  puff  paste  out 
to  about  one  eighth  of  an  inch  or  less  in  thickness,  and  stamp 
out  some  rings  fully  half  an  inch  less  in  diameter  than  the 
tartlets.  Brush  them  over  with  milk,  turn  the  wet  side  on  to 
the  castor  sugar,  and  place  on  the  baking-sheet  sugar  side  up- 
wards. Bake  in  a  quick  oven;  when  cold,  place  the  rings  of 
paste  on  the  tartlets,  and  fill  the  center  with  cream,  stiffly- 
whipped  and  sweetened  with  vanilla  sugar.  Place  half  a  glace 
cherry  in  the  center  of  each,  and  insert  a  few  strips  or  leaves 
of  angelica  to  complete  the  decoration. 

St.  Denis  Tartlets. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Pastry,  four  ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  ground  almonds,  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cornflour,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  whites  of  eggs, 
vanilla  essence,  raspberry  jam. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick 
and  smooth,  beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  ground  almonds, 
cornflour,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence,  and  lastly,  the  stiffly- 
whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Line  twelve  tartlet  molds  with  paste, 
spread  a  small  teaspoonful  of  jam  at  the  bottom  of  each  one, 
fill  them  with  the  preparation,  and  fix  two  narrow  strips  of 
paste  across  the  top.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes. 

Savarin. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  yeast, 
four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  six  ounces  of  butter,  eight  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  little  milk,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Dry  and  sift  the  flour,  put  four  ounces  of  it  into 
a  warm  bowl,  add  two  pinches  of  salt,  and  make  a  hole  in  the 
center.  Mix  the  yeast  smoothly  with  a  little  tepid  milk,  add 
it  to  the  flour,  work  into  a  smooth  sponge  or  dough,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  warm  place  until  it  expands  to  twice  its  original 
size.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  large  bowl,  add 
the  sugar,  warmed  butter,  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  and  a  little 
tepid  milk  if  required.  Beat  well  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 


278  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

add  the  dough  when  sufficiently  risen,  work  in  the  cream,  and 
beat  all  well  together  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Have  ready  a 
well-buttered  border  mold,  sprinkle  the  inside  with  ground  rice 
and  fine  sugar  mixed  in  equal  quantities,  or  finely-shredded 
almonds,  or  cocoanut.  Half  fill  with  the  dough,  cover,  and 
let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  it  rises,  nearly  to  the  top  of 
the  mold,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Savarin  with  Pineapple. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Savarin  border,  prepared  as  directed,  pre- 
served pineapple,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade, 
glace  cherries.  For  the  syrup:  one  and  a  half  pints  of  water, 
six  ounces  of  loaf  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Prepare  a  border  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Boil  the  loaf  sugar  and  water  to  syrup,  add  to  it  the 
strained  apricot  marmalade,  simmer  until  sufficiently  thick, 
then  put  in  the  pineapple,  cut  into  dice,  and  allow  it  to  become 
thoroughly  hot.  When  ready,  place  the  savarin  on  a  hot 
dish,  baste  it  well  with  the  syrup,  then  pile  the  pineapple  in 
the  center,  garnish  with  cherries,  and  strain  over  the  remainder 
of  the  syrup.  Variety  may  be  obtained  by  using  apricots  or 
peaches  instead  of  the  pineapple. 

Savoy  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  ounces  of  stale  savoy  or  sponge  cake, 
four  ounces  of  butter  warmed,  about  four  ounces  of  shredded 
mixed  peel,  two  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  six  eggs,  about  one- 
half  pint  of  boiling  milk,  one  glass  of  sherry  or  Marsala. 

METHOD. —  Pass  the  cake  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  add  to  it 
all  the  ingredients  except  the  whites  of  eggs,  and  beat  well. 
Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  and  pour 
the  mixture  into  a  buttered  pie-dish.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  half  an  hour.  Or  bake  the  mixture  before  adding  the 
whites  of  eggs,  which  afterwards  pile  in  a  rocky  form,  dredge 
liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  until  set  and  very  lightly 
browned. 

Saxon  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  sponge  cakes,  twelve  macaroons, 
thirty-six  ratafias,  eight  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  one-half  pint 
of  cream,  two  glasses  of  sherry,  four  ounces  of  almonds,  a  few 
glace  cherries,  angelica,  vanilla  essence. 

METHOD. —  Blanch,  peel,  shred  and  bake  the  almonds  until 
nicely  browned.  Butter  a  plain  charlotte  mold,  decorate  the 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  279 

bottom  with  halves  of  cherries  and  strips  of  angelica,  and 
sprinkle  the  sides  thickly  with  the  prepared  almonds.  Fill  the 
mold  with  alternate  layers  of  slices  of  sponge  cake,  pieces  of 
macaroon  and  ratafias.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  milk, 
cream,  wine,  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla.  Pour  this  into  the 
mold,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  the  mixture  stand 
for  one  hour.  Then  steam  from  one  and  a  half  to  one  and 
three-quarters  hours,  and  serve  with  fruit  syrup,  German  or 
other  suitable  sauce.  This  pudding  is  exceedingly  nice  cold, 
with  whipped  cream  as  an  accompaniment. 
Semolina  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Three  pints  of  milk,  six  to  eight  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  semolina,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  four  eggs, 
bay-leaves  or  other  flavoring,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  milk,  with  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  the 
bay-leaves  into  a  stewpan;  when  boiling,  sprinkle  in  the 
semolina  and  cook  gently  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile. 
Cool  slightly,  remove  the  bay-leaves,  stir  in  the  sugar,  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  the  eggs. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  gently  from  twenty-five 
to  thirty  minutes. 

Snowdon  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet, 
eight  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  eight  ounces  of  castor  sugar, 
eight  ounces  of  raisins,  stoned  and  halved,  two  ounces  of  glace 
cherries,  halved,  two  ounces  of  ground  rice,  four  eggs,  one  gill 
of  milk,  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
apricot  marmalade  or  jam,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinna- 
mon, salt. 

METHOD. —  Decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  well-buttered 
mold  or  bowl  with  some  of  the  halved  cherries  and  raisins.  Put 
the  remainder  into  a  bowl,  add  the  suet,  breadcrumbs,  sugar, 
ground  rice,  lemon  rind,  cinnamon,  and  two  good  pinches  of 
salt.  Beat  the  eggs,  stir  in  the  milk  and  marmalade,  and  when 
well  mixed,  add  them  to  the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat  well. 
Pour  the  mixture  into  the  prepared  mold,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  from  one  and  a  quarter  to  one  and  a  half 
hours.  Serve  with  fruit  syrup  or  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Swiss  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  large  sour  baking  apples,  about  six- 
teen ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  brown  sugar,  butter,  twelve  cloves. 
METHOD. —  Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples.     Cover  the  bot- 


280  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

torn  of  a  buttered  pie-dish  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  layer  of 
apple,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  moisten  with  water,  and  add  two  or 
three  cloves  and  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter.  Repeat  until  all 
the  materials  are  used,  letting  the  breadcrumbs  form  the  top 
layer.  Pour  on  a  little  oiled  butter,  cover  with  a  greased  paper, 
and  bake  gently  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  As  soon 
as  the  apples  begin  to  fall  remove  the  paper  to  allow  the  sur- 
face to  brown. 

Tapioca  Pudding. 

Soak  a  cupful  of  tapioca  all  night  in  three  pints  of  cold 
water,  and  in  the  morning  cook  for  one  hour  in  a  double  sauce- 
pan, stirring  frequently.  When  done  add  half  a  teacupful  of 
sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  tumblerful  of  red  cur- 
rant or  any  other  fruit  jelly.  When  thoroughly  mixed  pour 
into  a  mold  and  let  it  get  cold. 

This  pudding  should  be  served  with  cream  and  castor  sugar. 

Tapioca  or  Sago  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
tapioca  or  sago,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  or  to  taste,  four 
eggs  (optional),  nutmeg,  salt. 

METHOD. —  Boil  the  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  tapioca  or  sago,  stir 
until  boiling,  and  simmer  gently  until  it  becomes  clear,  stirring 
occasionally.  Add  the  sugar  and  two  good  pinches  of  salt, 
and  when  a  little  cool,  add  the  eggs,  beaten.  Pour  into  a 
greased  pie-dish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  half  an 
hour. 

Cream  of  Tea. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  strong  infusion  of  China  tea,  add  five 
ounces  of  sugar,  and  mix  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs. 
Stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  being  careful  that  it  does  not 
boil,  and  then  strain  through  a  cloth.  Now  add  a  gill  and  a 
half  of  cream,  and  three  and  a  quarter  ounces  of  gelatine 
melted  in  a  little  hot  water.  Stir  thoroughly  and  then  beat  in 
sufficient  whipped  cream  to  make  one  pint.  Pour  the  whole 
into  a  mold  and  place  upon  ice  to  set. 

Timbales  of  Semolina. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  bottles  of  apricots,  or  an  equal  quantity 
of  freshly-cooked  fruit,  two  pints  of  water,  six  ounces  of 
semolina,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  six  whole  eggs,  angelica, 
glace  cherries,  almonds,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  Maras- 
chino, vanilla  pod. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  281 

METHOD. —  Simmer  the  vanilla  pod  in  the  milk  until  suffi- 
ciently flavored,  then  remove  it  (dry  it  and  keep  for  further 
use),  sprinkle  in  the  semolina  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stir- 
ring meanwhile.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  add  the  sugar,  and 
beat  in  separately  six  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs.  Continue 
the  beating  until  the  mixture  is  nearly  cold,  then  add  the 
cream  and  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  four  eggs.  Put  the  prep- 
aration into  well-buttered  timbale  or  dariole  molds,  and  steam 
for  half  an  hour.  Meanwhile  heat,  between  two  plates,  as 
many  halves  of  apricots  as  there  are  timbales.  Boil  the  apri- 
cot syrup  until  well  reduced,  and  flavor  it  with  a  little  Maras- 
chino, if  liked.  When  ready,  turn  out  the  timbales  on  to  a 
hot  dish,  place  an  apricot  on  the  top  of  each,  decorate  with 
shredded  almonds,  strips  qr  leaves  of  angelica,  and  halves  of 
cherries,  all  of  which  should  be  previously  prepared  and 
warmed.  Strain  over  the  syrup,  and  serve. 

Torrijas. 

Take  some  slices  of  bread  about  as  thick  as  one's  finger  and 
soak  them  first  in  a  glass  of  milk  sweetened  and  mixed  with 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  afterwards  in  port  or  any  other  sweet 
wine.  Drain  and  fry  in  butter.  Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar 
and  grated  cinnamon  and  serve  hot. 

Molasses  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  sixteen  ounces  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  four  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  molasses,  the  grated 
rind  of  two  lemons,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  salt. 

METHOD. — Mix  the  flour,  suet,  baking-powder,  and  a  good 
pinch  of  salt  together,  and  form  into  a  stiff  paste  with  cold 
water.  Divide  it  into  two  equal  portions;  with  one  line  the 
bowl,  from  the  other  portion  cut  off  sufficient  paste  to  form 
the  lid,  and  roll  the  remainder  out  thinly.  Put  a  layer  of 
molasses  in  the  bowl,  sprinkle  liberally  with  breadcrumbs,  and 
lightly  with  lemon  rind.  From  the  rolled-out  paste  cut  a  round 
sufficiently  large  to  rather  more  than  cover  the  molasses,  etc., 
in  the  bowl,  moisten  the  edges  of  it  with  water,  and  join  them 
carefully  to  the  paste  lining  of  the  bowl.  Now  add  another  layer 
of  molasses,  breadcrumbs  and  lemon  rind,  and  cover  with  pastry 
as  before.  Repeat  until  the  pudding  bowl  is  full,  then  cover 
with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  for  two  and  a  half  hours. 

Vermicelli   Pudding. 
INGREDIENTS. —  Four    ounces   of   vermicelli,    two    ounces   of 


282  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

sugar,  or  to  taste,  four  eggs,  two  pints  of  milk,  lemon  rind, 
bay-leaves  or  other  flavoring. 

METHOD. —  Boil  the  milk  and  flavoring  ingredients  together, 
add  the  vermicelli  broken  into  short  pieces,  and  simmer  until 
tender.  Now  take  out  the  bay-leaves,  or  whatever  has  been 
used,  add  the  sugar  and  eggs,  mix  all  lightly  together,  and 
pour  into  a  buttered  pie-dish.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  thirty  minutes,  then  serve. 

Vanilla  Pudding. 

Rub  half  a  dozen  sponge  cakes  through  a  sieve,  or  crush 
the  same  number  of  large  sweet  biscuits.  Pound  six  maca- 
roons, and  mix  the  whole  in  a  bowl  with  four  yolks  and  two 
whites  of  eggs  well  whisked.  Beat  up  the  whole  for  some 
time,  adding  a  gill  of  cream  and  a  little  essence  of  vanilla. 
Next  whisk  the  two  remaining  whites  of  eggs  to  a  froth  and 
stir  well  into  the  mixture  which  is  then  placed  in  a  buttered 
mold  lined  with  buttered  paper.  This  should  be  steamed  for 
about  an  hour,  or  the  mold  may  be  placed  in  a  vessel  half  full 
of  boiling  water,  covered  over  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper 
and  then  placed  in  a  brisk  oven  for  an  hour. 

This  pudding  is  eaten  with  fruit  syrup  or  any  other  sweet 
sauce. 

Victoria  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet, 
eight  ounces  of  'breadcrumbs,  six  ounces  of  flour,  eight  ounces 
of  apples,  eight  ounces  of  apricot  jam,  four  ounces  of  finely- 
shredded  mixed  peel,  six  ounces  of  dried  cherries  cut  in 
quarters,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  eight  eggs,  two  glasses  of 
brandy,  one  gill  of  cream. 

METHOD. —  Peel,  core  and  chop  the  apples  finely,  and  mix 
with  them  the  suet,  breadcrumbs,  flour,  peel,  cherries  and 
sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  jam,  cream  and  brandy; 
when  well  mixed,  stir  them  into  the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat 
well.  Pour  into  a  well-buttered  mold,  cover  with  the  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Serve 
with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Viennoise  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Ten  ounces  of  white  bread  cut  into  small 
dice,  six  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  six  ounces  of  sultanas  picked 
and  cleaned,  four  ounces  of  finely-shredded  candied  peel,  two 
ounces  of  almonds,  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  eight  yolks 
of  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  caramel. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  283 

METHOD. —  Blanch,  shred,  and  bake  the  almonds  until  well 
browned.  Heat  the  milk,  add  sufficient  caramel  or  burnt  sugar 
to  make  it  a  deep  nut-brown  color,  then  pour  it  on  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stirring  meanwhile.  Mix  the  bread  dice, 
sugar,  sultanas,  peel,  almonds,  and  lemon  rind  well  together, 
add  the  sherry  and  prepared  milk,  etc.,  cover,  and  let  it  stand 
for  one  hour.  When  ready,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-but- 
tered mold,  steam  for  about  two  hours,  and  serve  with  Ger- 
man custard,  arrowroot,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Welsh  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Sixteen  ounces  of  finely-chopped  suet,  six- 
teen ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  sixteen  ounces  of  sugar,  the  juice 
of  four  large  lemons,  and  the  finely-grated  rind  of  two  lemons, 
four  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  eggs, 
and  a  little  milk  if  the  mixture  appears  too  stiff.  Turn  into  a 
buttered  bowl,  steam  or  boil  from  three  and  a  half  to  four 
hours,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Wine  Pudding. 

Heat  a  quart  of  Sauterne  or  other  white  wine  to  boiling 
point  and  then  add  a  heaped  teaspoonful  of  cornflour,  the  juice 
and  grated  rinds  of  two  lemons  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Blend  thoroughly,  and  then  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  seven 
eggs.  Be  very  careful  that  the  mixture  does  not  boil  after 
adding  the  eggs  or  it  will  curdle.  Pour  out  into  a  bowl  and 
place  upon  ice  until  it  is  wanted. 

Yorkshire  Pudding. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pints  of  milk,  four  eggs,  eight  heaped 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  salt,  dripping. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  flour  and  two  good  pinches  of  salt  into 
a  bowl,  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  break  in  the  eggs,  stir, 
gradually  mixing  in  the  flour  from  the  sides,  and  add  milk  by 
degrees  until  a  thick  smooth  batter  is  formed.  Now  beat  well 
for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  cover, 
and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  one  hour.  When  ready  to  use, 
cover  the  bottom  of  a  pudding-tin  with  a  thin  layer  of  drip- 
ping taken  from  the  meat  tin,  and  while  the  tin  and  dripping 
are  getting  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven,  give  the  batter  another 
good  beating.  Bake  the  pudding  for  ten  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven  to  partially  cook  the  bottom,  or,  if  more  convenient,  place 
the  hottest  shelf  from  the  oven  on  the  meat  stand,  and  at  once 
put  the  pudding  in  front  of  the  fire,  and  cook  it  until  set  and 


284  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

well  browned.  "  Yorkshire  "  pudding  is  always  cooked  in  front 
of  the  fire ;  when  baked  in  the  oven,  the  term  "  batter  pudding  " 
is  applied  to  it  by  the  people  in  the  county  whence  it  derives  its 
name. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

SWEETS. 

Pastry,  cakes,  and  sweets  generally  are  wonderfully  im- 
proved by  being  cooked  in  paper  bags.  The  concentration  of 
heat  which  is  thus  gained  has  the  effect  of  making  puff  paste 
lighter  and  more  regular  in  texture,  and  all  cake  mixtures 
"  rise  "  in  a  manner  that  the  open  oven  cannot  produce. 

Then  again,  the  cooking  takes  much  less  time,  and  I  need 
not  point  out  the  value  of  this.  In  the  old  style  the  oven 
door  had  frequently  to  be  opened  to  watch  the  progress.  The 
pastry  was  thus  exposed  to  draughts  of  cool  air,  which  could 
not  but  produce  "  doughy,"  heavy  and  unsatisfactory  results. 

Puff  Paste. 

Take  one  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  but- 
ter. Mix  the  flour  with  water  and  salt  lightly  until  the  con- 
sistency of  butter.  Leave  this  dough  for  half  an  hour,  then 
flatten  with  your  hand  and  lay  your  butter  on  the  top  of  the 
paste.  Then,  fold  four-corner  way,  and  give  it  two  rolls,  as 
usual.  Leave  your  paste  in  a  cool  place  for  forty-five  minutes, 
and  then  roll  twice  more.  Leave  it  for  forty-five  minutes  and 
then  roll  twice  again.  Place  it  in  a  large  paper-bag  which 
will  not  touch  the  paste.  Put  on  grid  and  allow  twenty  min- 
utes in  hot  own.  (350°  Fahr.). 

Tart  in  a  Pie-Dish. 

Place  in  a  paper  bag  well  sealed.  Put  on  the  grid.  Allow 
thirty-five  to  forty-five  minutes  in  350°  Fahr.,  but  use  pre- 
viously cooked  fruit. 

Sausage  Rolls 

or  any  other  pastry,  can  be  cooked  by  the  same  method.  The 
fatty  matter  inside  the  pastry  (by  the  paper-bag  method)  helps 
by  the  even  heat  to  keep  the  paste  light  and,  consequently, 
perfect.  Allow  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes,  according  to 
size  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Apple  Dumpling. 

Make  in  the  usual  way.  Cook  in  the  paper  bag.  Allow 
twenty  minutes  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  285 

Bananas,  Apples,  or  Other  Cooking  Fruit. 

Put  fruit  in  the  paper  bag,  with  or  without  butter  or  jam. 
Flavor  to  taste.  Add  sugar  if  desired.  Bake  twenty  minutes 
in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Scone. 

Any  kind  of  scone  or  breakfast  rolls  should  be  placed  in 
large  loose  greased  bags  in  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Allow  ten 
to  fifteen  minutes,  according  to  size. 

Genoise  Paste. 

Take  six  ounces  of  flour  and  sift  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper, 
then  half  a  pound  of  sifted  castor  sugar,  five  ounces  of  but- 
ter, melted,  but  not  hot.  Break  six  eggs  in  a  bowl,  and  place 
the  bowl  in  some  boiling  water  in  a  separate  pan  placed  over 
gentle  heat.  Beat  the  eggs  and  butter  for  twenty  minutes  or 
so  with  a  whisk  to  a  nice  consistency.  Take  the  bowl  off  the 
fire,  and  beat  the  contents  a  little  again.  Add  flour  and  but- 
ter, mix  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  but  not  to  stir  it  up  to  a 
cream.  Flavor  according  to  taste.  Take  any  kind  of  mold 
or  tin  you  like,  well  butter  it,  and  dredge  with  castor  sugar. 
Three  parts  fill  it  with  the  paste  and  place  in  the  paper  bag. 
Allow  thirty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Any  Kind  of  Cake, 

plain,  madeira,  sultana,  raisin,  etc. —  can  be  cooked  in  the  loose 
paper  bag,  on  grid,  in  fairly  hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.).  Allow 
one  and  a  quarter  hours,  according  to  size. 

Petit   Nid. 

Peel  and  core  half  a  dozen  cooking  apples.  Empty  the  con- 
tents of  a  sixpenny  bottle  of  fruit  syrup  (for  preference  pine- 
apple) into  a  thickly-buttered  bag.  Add  the  apples,  seal  bag, 
and  place  on  grid,  simmer  very  gently  until  cooked,  but  take 
care  that  they  do  not  get  broken.  Line  a  paper  souffle  case 
with  puff  paste,  place  carefully  in  a  well-greased  bag,  put  the 
apples  in  this,  and  twist  long  strips  of  citron  and  angelica  round 
them.  Place  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  clean  bowl,  sift  in 
eight  ounces  of  sugar,  and  whip  to  a  cream.  Then  add  the 
well-whisked  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  season  to  taste  with 
grated  nutmeg.  Place  on  the  fire,  and  stir  gently  until  very 
hot,  then  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Stir  these  in  lightly,  then  pour  over  the  apples;  place  in  the 
bag,  put  it  in  the  oven  without  loss  of  time,  and  bake  to  a 
golden  hue.  Dust  thickly  with  sifted  sugar,  and  serve  either 


286  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

hot  or  cold.    Plenty  of  citron  or  angelica  must  be  used  to  give 
the  idea  of  a  nest. 

Pommes  a  la  Duchesse. 

Take  from  eight  to  ten  large  apples;  wash  and  dry  them. 
Then  core  with  a  proper  apple-corer.  Place  a  bit  of  cinna- 
mon stick  in  each  apple,  and  pour  over  them  a  tablespoonful  of 
rum.  Place  them  in  a  buttered  bag  and  bake  on  a  grid. 
When  quite  done  remove  the  cinnamon  and  fill  the  center  of 
each  apple  with  a  little  strawberry,  raspberry,  or  apricot  jam. 
Cover  the  whole  with  very  stiffly-whipped  cream.  Ornament 
with  chopped  pistachio  nuts  and  pine  kernels,  and  serve  at 
once,  or  leave  upon  ice  till  needed.  Sweet,  not  sour,  apples 
should  be  selected.  They  should  be  placed  on  a  clean  dish 
and  allowed  to  cool  before  the  jam  and  cream  are  added. 

Pudding  a  la  Munich. 

Take  some  slices  of  stale  French  bread,  and  toast  to  a 
light  crisp  brown;  then  spread  thickly  first  with  butter  and 
then  with  golden  syrup.  Place  a  layer  of  golden  syrup  in  a 
well-greased  paper  souffle  dish,  sprinkle  it  with  washed  and 
dried  chopped  currants,  chopped  sultanas,  a  little  chopped 
lemon  peel,  and  a  very  little  grated  nutmeg  or  allspice.  Put 
a  layer  of  the  toast,  then  currants,  sultanas,  peel,  and  spice, 
and  repeat  the  layers  until  the  dish  is  full.  Make  a  custard 
with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sifted  sugar.  Pour  over  the  whole,  and  leave 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Meanwhile,  whip  the  white  of  the  egg 
to  a  stiff  froth,  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice;  add  a  little 
sifted  sugar  and  pile  high  on  the  top  of  the  pudding.  Put  in 
a  well-buttered  bag,  bake  to  a  golden  "brown  for  thirty  minutes 
in  350°  Fahr.  and  serve.  The  meringue  mixture  may  be 
omitted,  and  the  custard  made  with  the  whole  egg.  In  that 
case  bake  the  pudding  for  thirty-five  minutes.  Dust  some  sifted 
sugar  over,  and  serve. 

Pudding  a  la  Mayence. 

Rub  one-half  pint  of  breadcrumbs  through  a  fine  wire  sieve, 
add  a  tumblerful  of  any  wine  and  water,  the  grated  rind  of  a 
small  lemon,  first  washed  and  dried,  three  heaped-up  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sifted  sugar,  and  one  ounce  of  butter.  Mix  all 
together,  and  then  pour  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  souffle 
dish.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  the  juice 
of  a  small  lemon  carefully  strained.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  sifted  sugar  to 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  287 

taste ;  color  to  a  pale  green  with  a  few  drops  of  spinach  green- 
ing, or  pale  pink  with  a  little  carmine  coloring  or  cochineal. 
Pile  up  on  top,  place  in  the  bag,  put  into  a  very  moderate  oven, 
and  bake  till  the  meringue  is  firmly  set. 

Pudding  a  la  Baronne. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  well-washed,  dried,  and  pickled  cur- 
rants, half  a  pound  of  sultana  raisins,  half  a  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs, an  ounce  of  chopped  citron,  and  four  heaped  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  golden  syrup.  Mix  all  well  together,  then  add  an 
ounce  of  self-raising  flour  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs  mixed  with  a  pint  of  milk.  Whisk  all  well  together,  and 
finally  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  whisked  to  a  firm  froth. 
Fill  with  this  a  well-greased  paper  souffle  dish,  place  carefully 
in  a  bag,  and  bake  in  an  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half  (300° 
Fahr.).  Turn  out  carefully  and  serve  with  a  little  heated 
golden  syrup  poured  over  and  around  it. 

Beignets  a  la  Portugaise. 

Wash  well  six  ounces  of  Carolina  rice  and  place  it  in  a 
clean  stewpan,  and  add  four  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  half  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  a  strip  of  lemon  peel, 
or  a  very  little  grated  rind  of  lemon.  Allow  the  butter  to 
melt,  shaking  the  pan  to  avoid  burning,  and  then  add  a  pint 
of  milk.  Cover  closely  and  bring  gently  to  the  boil.  Then 
draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  slowly  for 
rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  the  rice  should 
have  absorbed  all  the  milk  and  be  perfectly  tender.  With- 
draw the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool  a 
little.  Then  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and 
finally  the  whites  whisked  to  a  firm  froth  with  a  tiny  pinch 
of  salt  and  a  very  little  lemon  juice.  Mix  lightly  but  very 
thoroughly,  and  then  form  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  small 
tangerine.  Make  an  aperture  in  each  as  carefully  as  possible 
and  insert  a  small  spoonful  of  either  apricot  jam  or  marmalade 
in  the  middle;  close  up  neatly,  then  dip  in  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs. Have  ready  a  well-greased  bag,  put  the  beignets  in, 
and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  (350°  Fahr.).  Take  out  and 
serve  at  once. 

Pommes  a  la  Mascotte. 

Take  a  dozen  large  apples,  as  nearly  of  a  size  as  possible. 
Peel  very  thinly,  and  remove  the  cores  with  an  apple-corer. 
Roll  the  apples  in  well-beaten  egg  and  then  in  plenty  of  centri- 
fugal sugar.  (Add  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  to  the  beaten  egg.) 


288  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Arrange  the  apples  neatly  in  a  well-greased  paper  souffle  case, 
put  it  into  a  bag,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  (300°  Fahr.).  When  done,  fill  the  center  of  each 
with  some  sieved  apricot  jam.  Pour  a  little  apricot  sauce 
round  the  base  and  serve  at  once. 

For  the  sauce,  place  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sieved  apricot 
jam  in  a  small  clean  stewpan.  Make  very  hot,  then  stir  in  a 
little  well-whipped  cream,  and  use  as  directed. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  289 


SOUFFLES  AND  SOUFFLE  OMELETTES. 

General  Directions. 

Molds  or  tins  in  which  souffles  are  to  be  steamed  or  baked 
should,  after  being  well  coated  with  cool  clarified  butter,  have 
a  band  of  three  or  four  folds  of  buttered  paper  tied  round 
their  rim  to  support  the  souffle  when  it  rises  above  the  level 
of  the  tin.  All  these  preparations  should  be  made  before- 
hand, so  that  the  mixture  may  not  have  to  stand  and  possibly 
lose  some  of  its  lightness.  The  success  of  souffles  and  souffle- 
omelettes  depends  largely  upon  the  whites  of  the  eggs  being 
whisked  to  a  proper  degree  of  stiffness.  When  the  eggs  are 
fresh,  all  that  is  necessary  to  ensure  this  is  careful  separa- 
tion from  the  yolks,  the  addition  of  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  that 
the  air  whipped  in  is  as  cold  as  possible.  Another  important 
factor  is  the  cooking.  Souffles  are  lighter  when  steamed  than 
when  baked,  but  great  care  is  needed  to  keep  the  water  sur- 
rounding them  at  simmering  point  and  yet  prevent  it  actually 
boiling.  Souffles  should  be  served  as  soon  as  they  are  done, 
for  if  over-cooked  or  allowed  to  stand,  they  lose  some  of  their 
lightness.  They  should  be  baked  in  a  hot  oven,  and  served 
as  quickly  as  possible  in  the  dish  or  dishes  in  which  they  are 
cooked. 

Apricot  Souffle. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  fresh  or  canned  apricots,  eight  ounces 
of  Vienna  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  castor 
sugar,  one  pint  of  milk,  six  yolks  of  eggs,  eight  whites  of 
eggs. 

METHOD. —  Drain  the  apricots  well,  and  pass  them  through 
a  hair  sieve.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk 
(some  of  the  milk  may  be  replaced  by  apricot  syrup)  and  cook 
over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  no  longer  adheres  to  the  sides 
of  the  stewpan.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  apricot  pulp,  and  stir  in  as  lightly  as 
possible,  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Have  ready  a 
well-buttered  souffle  mold,  turn  in  the  mixture  and  steam 
slowly  from  forty  to  forty-five  minutes.  Unmold  and  serve 
with  a  suitable  sauce.  Send  to  table  as  quickly  as  possible. 


290  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Chocolate  Souffle. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Four  ounces  of  finely-grated  chocolate,  six 
ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
one  pint  of  milk,  six  yolks  of  eggs,  eight  whites  of  eggs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  custard,  or  other  suitable  sweet 
sauce. 

METHOD. —  Place  the  milk  and  chocolate  in  a  small  stewpan 
and  simmer  gently  until  dissolved.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in 
the  flour,  add  the  chocolate  mixture,  and  boil  well.  Let  it 
cool  a  little,  add  the  vanilla,  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eggs  one  at 
a  time,  give  the  whole  a  good  beating,  then  stir  in  as  lightly 
as  possible  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Turn  into  a 
well-buttered  mold,  and  steam  gently  from  forty-five  to  fifty 
minutes.  Serve  the  sauce  round  the  dish. 

Orange  Souffle. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  oranges,  six  ounces  of  cakecrumbs,  six 
ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  four  eggs,  one  and  a  half  pints  of  milk,  one 
small  glass  of  noyeau,  a  few  glace  cherries. 

METHOD. —  Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  crumbs,  and  let 
them  soak  while  the  other  ingredients  are  being  prepared. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  as  usual,  add  the  yolks  and  two 
whites  of  eggs,  and  beat  well.  Now*  add  the  rind  of  one 
orange,  grated  or  finely  chopped,  a  dessertspoonful  of  orange 
juice,  noyeau,  and  the  cakecrumbs.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  souffle  dish,  and  bake  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  min- 
utes in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Have  ready  the  remaining 
white  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth,  spread  it  lightly  over  the  surface 
of  the  souffle,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  garnish  with  the 
cherries.  Replace  in  the  oven  until  the  meringue  acquires  a 
little  color,  and  serve. 

Prune  Souffle 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  prunes,  eight  ounces  of  castor 
sugar,  two  ounces  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  ounce  of 
almonds  blanched  and  shredded,  two  lemons,  six  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Wash  the  prunes  and  soak  them  in  cold  water 
for  three  or  four  hours.  Then  place  them  in  a  jar  with  the 
lemon  rind  pared  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  a  little  cold  water, 
and  cook  until  tender.  When  cold,  remove  the  stones,  and  cut 
the  prunes  into  small  pieces.  Cream  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  half  of  the  prepared 
almonds,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  the  prunes,  and 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  291 

mix  well.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add 
half  of  it  lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  pour  the 
mixture  into  a  buttered  souffle  dish  or  pie-dish.  Bake  for 
about  fifteen  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  then  pile  the  re- 
mainder of  the  white  of  eggs  on  the  top,  dredge  with  castor 
sugar,  and  scatter  on  the  almonds.  Replace  in  the  oven,  bake 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  longer,  and  serve  hot. 

Raspberry  Souffle. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  ripe  raspberries,  four  ounces 
of  cakecrumbs  or  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar, 
four  ounces  of  rice  flour  or  cornflour,  one  ounce  of  butter,  one 
gill  of  cream,  eight  eggs. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  raspberries,  cream,  rice,  flour,  and  sugar 
into  a  bowl,  and  reduce  them  to  a  pulp  by  means  of  a  wooden 
spoon.  Beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  the  cakecrumbs, 
stir  in  lightly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mold.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Rice  and  Apple  Souffle. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  sour  cooking-apples,  four 
ounces  of  ground  rice,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  six  eggs,  one  and  a  half  pints  of  milk,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  or  to  taste,  the  rind  of  one  lemon, 
thinly  pared,  two  cloves,  one  inch  of  stick  cinnamon. 

METHOD. —  Cook  the  apples  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
water,  the  moist  sugar,  butter,  lemon  rind,  cloves,  and  cinna- 
mon in  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  when 
soft  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve.  Meanwhile  mix  the 
ground  rice  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  the  remainder, 
add  the  blended  rice  and  milk,  and  simmer  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Now  add  the  sugar,  let  the  mixture  cool  a  little, 
then  add  each  yolk  of  egg  separately,  give  the  whole  a  good 
beating,  and  lastly  stir  in  very  lightly  the  stiffly- whisked  whites 
of  eggs.  Fill  a  well-buttered  souffle  dish  with  alternate  layers 
of  rice  and  apple  puree,  piling  the  last  layer  of  rice  in  a  pyra- 
midal form.  Dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes. 

Apricot  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twenty  to  twenty-four  apricots  (preserved 
fruit  will  do),  castor  sugar,  ground  cinnamon,  frying  fat. 
For  the  yeast  batter:  sixteen  ounces  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of 


292  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

yeast,  three  ounces  of  oiled  butter,  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  two  pinches  of  salt. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  yeast  smoothly  with  a  little  tepid  milk, 
add  four  ounces  of  flour,  mix  into  a  light  dough,  and  let  it 
rise  in  a  warm  place.  When  it  has  risen  to  nearly  twice  its 
original  size  add  the  salt,  sugar,  warm  butter,  floiar,  and  as 
much  tepid  milk  as  is  needed  to  form  a  light  dough.  Let  it 
rise  again,  and  meanwhile  drain  the  apricots  from  the  syrup. 
Cover  the  halves  of  the  apricots  completely  with  a  thin  coating 
of  dough,  place  them  on  a  well-buttered  paper,  let  them  remain 
near  the  fire  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  fry  in  hot  fat  until 
nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar  and 
cinnamon,  then  serve. 

Banana  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Twelve  firm  bananas,  frying  batter,  castor 
sugar,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Cut  each  banana  lengthwise  and  across,  thus 
forming  four  portions.  Coat  them  completely  with  the  pre- 
pared batter,  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  and 
drain  well.  Sprinkle  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Beetroot  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  large  cooked  beetroots,  six  yolks  of  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  sugar  to  taste,  one  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  rind,  two  good  pinches  of  nutmeg,  frying  batter,  frying- 
fat. 

METHOD. —  Pass  the  beetroot  through  a  fine  sieve,  sprinkle 
in  the  flour,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon  rind,  and  nutmeg, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  ten  minutes, 
and  put  aside  until  cold.  Drop  the  mixture  in  dessertspoon- 
fuls into  the  batter,  drain  slightly,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp 
and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  dredged  with  cas- 
tor sugar.  Another  variety  of  fritters  is  prepared  with  cooked 
beetroots  thickly  sliced,  coated  with  sweet  or  savory  batter,  and 
fried  as  directed  above. 

Croquettes  of  Fruit. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One  and  a  half  pounds  of  cooking  cherries, 
damsons  or  plums,  three  pounds  of  savory  biscuits  or  Genoese 
cake  finely  crumbled,  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  finely-grated  lemon  rind,  two  good  pinches  of  cinnamon, 
eggs  and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Stone  the  fruit,  place  it  in  a  jar  with  the  sugar, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  293 

and  stew  gently  until  tender.  Strain  off  the  juice,  stir  in  the 
cakecrumbs,  lemon  rind  and  cinnamon,  add  juice  gradually 
until  the  right  consistency  is  obtained,  then  spread  on  a  dish 
to  cool.  Form  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  coat  carefully  with 
egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned 
(breadcrumbs  may  be  used  instead  of  cakecrumbs).  Serve 
garnished  with  strips  of  angelica. 

Cornflour  or  Cornmeal  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  cornflour  or 
cornmeal,  four  eggs  well-beaten,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  ingredients  smoothly  together,  drop  the 
batter,  a  tablespoonful  at  a  time,  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  until 
crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  with  jelly, 
jam,  or  compote  of  fruit. 

Custard  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  cornflour,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fine  flour,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar, 
four  yolks  of  eggs,  one  pint  of  milk,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt, 
vanilla  essence,  eggs  and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  flour  and  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  lit- 
tle milk,  boil  up  the  remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  flour, 
stirring  meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  simmer  gently 
for  four  minutes,  add  the  sugar  and  salt,  and  stir  in  the  yolks 
of  eggs.  Cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla  essence,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish  to  the  depth 
of  half  an  inch.  When  cold,  cut  into  small  rounds,  coat  them 
carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until 
lightly  browned.  Serve  with  wine  or  jam  sauce. 
Fried  Puffs. 

(See  Souffle  Fritters.) 

Indian  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  eight 
eggs,  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  jam  or  jelly,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Stir  into  the  flour  sufficient  boiling  water  (about 
one  gill)  to  form  a  stiff  smooth  paste.  Let  it  cool,  then  break 
in  the  eggs,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Fill  a  dessertspoonful  with 
the  mixture,  form  a  cavity,  fill  it  with  jam  or  jelly,  and  after- 
wards cover  completely  with  the  mixture.  Fry  in  hot  fat, 
drain  well,  and  serve  immediately. 

Rice  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  ounces  of   rice,  three  ounces   of   sugar, 


294  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

one  ounce  of  butter,   six  ounces  of  orange  marmalade,   four 
eggs,  -three  pints  of  milk,  frying-batter,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  the  whole  of 
it  is  absorbed,  add  the  sugar,  butter,  marmalade  and  eggs,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Spread  the  mixture  on 
a  dish  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  and  when  cold,  cut  it 
into  strips  or  squares.  Dip  these  in  batter,  fry  in  hot  fat  until 
crisp,  drain  well,  then  serve. 

Souffle  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Choux  paste,  frying-fat,  castor  sugar. 

METHOD. —  Prepare  the  paste  as  directed,  drop  teaspoonful 
of  it  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  rather  slowly  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned.  Drain  well,  dredge  with  castor  sugar  and  serve. 

Spanish  Fritters. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  yeast, 
two  eggs,  milk,  four  ounces  of  butter  warmed,  two  saltspoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  frying-fat. 

METHOD. —  Moisten  the  yeast  with  a  little  lukewarm  water, 
add  the  eggs,  and  stir  into  the  flour.  Sprinkle  in  the  salt,  mix 
and  beat  well,  adding  milk  gradually  until  a  very  light  dough 
is  formed,  then  cover  and  set  aside  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
for  two  or  three  hours.  When  ready,  work  in  the  butter, 
shape  the  dough  into  small  balls,  and  fry  in  hot  fat,  until  crisp 
and  lightly  browned.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  295 


JELLIES,  JAMS,   PRESERVES,   FRUIT, 
PICKLES. 

Preparation  of  Molds. 

Molds,  whether  intended  for  creams  or  jellies,  should  be 
thoroughly  clean,  and  when  possible  rinsed  with  cold  water 
before  being  used.  In  preparing  them  for  decorated  creams, 
they  are  usually  coated  with  a  thin  layer  of  jelly.  To  do  this 
quickly  and  satisfactorily  it  is  necessary  that  the  molds  should 
be  quite  dry,  perfectly  cold,  and  the  jelly  on  the  point  of  set- 
ting when  put  into  the  mold,  which  is  turned  over  and  over 
until  thinly,  but  completely  coated.  The  decoration  is  a  mat- 
ter of  taste;  it  may  consist  of  pistachio,  shredded  or  finely 
chopped,  almonds,  glace  cherries,  etc.,  and  may  afford  no  in- 
dication of  the  composition  of  the  cream.  But  just  as  fre- 
quently the  decoration  consists  of  fancifully  cut  pieces  of  the 
fruit,  which  reduced  to  a  puree  forms  the  basis  of  the  cream. 
This  branch  of  cookery  affords  almost  unlimited  scope  for 
display  of  artistic  taste.  Success  in  this  direction  depends 
largely  on  a  suitable  combination  of  contrasting  or  harmonising 
colors,  and  the  decoration  being  neat  and  uniformly  disposed. 
Each  section  of  the  mold  must  be  decorated  separately,  and 
the  decoration  fixed  firmly  by  means  of  a  little  cool  jelly, 
which  must  be  allowed  to  set  before  changing  the  position  of 
the  mold.  For  this  reason  the  process  is  a  slow  one  unless  the 
mold  meanwhile  rests  upon  and  is  surrounded  by  ice.  With- 
out this  aid  the  task  is  almost  an  impossible  one  in  hot  weather. 

Freezing  Mixture. 

The  materials  usually  employed  for  this  purpose  are  ice, 
and  coarse  salt,  or  freezing  salt,  the  correct  proportions  being 
one  pound  of  salt  to  seven  or  eight  pounds  of  ice.  More  salt 
than  this  is  often  added  with  a  view  to  making  the  mixture 
freeze  more  quickly,  which  it  does  for  a  short  time,  but  the 
large  proportion  of  salt  causes  the  ice  to  speedily  melt,  and  the 
freezing  operation  comes  to  a  standstill  unless  the  ice  is  fre- 
quently renewed.  The  ice  tub,  or  outer  compartment  of  the 
freezing  machine,  must  be  filled  with  alternate  layers  of  crushed 
ice  and  salt.  A  good  layer  of  ice  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub 


296  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

enables  the  freezing  pot  to  turn  more  easily  and  more  quickly 
than  if  it  were  placed  on  the  bare  wood. 

Varieties   of   Ices. 

Ices  may  be  broadly  divided  into  two  classes,  viz.,  cream  ices 
and  water  ices.  The  former  are  sometimes  composed  almost 
entirely  of  cream,  sweetened,  flavored  and  elaborated  in  a  num- 
ber of  ways,  but  more  frequently  the  so-called  "  cream  ice " 
consists  principally  of  custard,  more  or  less  rich  according  to 
respective  requirements,  with  the  addition  of  fruit  pulp, 
crystallized  fruit,  almonds,  chocolate,  coffee,  liquors,  and  other 
flavoring  ingredients.  Water  ices  are  usually  prepared  from 
the  juices  of  fresh  fruit  mixed  with  syrup,  fruit  syrup,  or  jam, 
sieved  and  diluted  with  water  or  syrup.  In  addition  to  these, 
there  are  the  demi-glace  or  half-frozen  compounds,  now 
largely  introduced  into  high-class  menus  under  the  names  of 
sorbet,  granite  or  granito,  arid  punch.  This  variety  is  always 
served  immediately  before  the  roast,  and  always  in  small  por- 
tions in  sorbet  cups  or  glass,  never  molded;  and  alcoholic 
liquors  are  more  or  less  used  in  their  preparation.  Parfaits, 
mousses,  and  souffles  differ  from  ordinary  ices,  inasmuch  as  the 
cream  preparation  is  at'  once  molded  and  placed  on  ice,  thus 
omitting  the  ordinary  preliminary  freezing  process.  In  these, 
as  in  dessert  ices,  new  combinations  and  molds  of  original 
design  for  their  use  are  being  constantly  introduced,  but  as 
the  principal  constituents  of  the  preparations  remain  unchanged, 
they  present  no  difficulty  to  those  who  understand  the  general 
principles  of  ice  making. 

JELLIES. 

Jellies  are  made  of  cooked  fruit  juice  and  sugar,  in  nearly 
all  cases  the  proportions  being  equal.  Where  failures  occur, 
it  is  generally  due  to  the  use  of  too  ripe  fruit. 

To  PREPARE  GLASSES  FOR  JELLY. —  Wash  glasses  and  place 
in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water;  place  on  range,  and  heat  water 
gradually  to  boiling-point.  Remove  glasses,  and  drain.  Place 
glasses  while  filling  on  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water. 

To  COVER  JELLY  GLASSES. —  Cut  Soyer  paper  bags  in  circular 
pieces  just  to  fit  in  top  of  glasses.  Dip  in  brandy,  and  cover 
jelly.  Put  on  tin  covers  or  circular  pieces  of  paper  cut  larger 
than  the  glasses,  and  fastened  securely  over  the  edge  with 
mucilage.  Some  prefer  to  cover  jelly  with  melted  paraffin, 
then  to  adjust  covers. 

To  MAKE  A  JELLY  BAG. —  Fold  two  opposite  corners  of  a 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  297 

piece  of  cotton  and  wool  flannel  three-fourths  of  a  yard  long. 
Sew  up  in  the  form  of  a  cornucopia,  rounding  at  the  end. 
Fell  the  seam  to  make  more  secure.  Bind  the  top  with  tape, 
and  furnish  with  two  or  three  strong  loops  by  which  it  may 
be  hung. 

Calves'  Feet  Jelly. 

Take  five  pounds  of  shin  of  beef,  and  soak  for  six  hours  in 
cold  water. 

Take  also  four  calves'  feet,  split  in  two,  and  blanch  for 
three  minutes  in  boiling  water.  Place  the  beef  and  calves' 
feet  in  a  stewpan,  cover  well  with  water  and  slowly  boil  for 
five  hours.  If  necessary  the  strength  of  the  jelly  may  be  in- 
creased by  the  addition  of  half  a  bullock's  foot,  blanched  as 
above,  but  usually  the  calves'  feet  alone  are  strong  enough. 
While  boiling  keep  skimming  and  see  that  the  pot  is  always 
kept  quite  full  with  boiling  water,  otherwise  it  is  impossible 
to  extract  all  the  nutriment  from  the  meat.  In  ordinary  house- 
holds this  is  rarely  understood  for  it  is  a  point  seldom  taught. 
When  quite  boiled,  strain  off  the  liquor  by  passing  through  a 
muslin  strainer  into  a  large  bowl.  Place  this  in  a  cool  place 
where  air  can  pass  all  round.  Next  day  skim  off  the  fat  which 
will  be  found  floating  above  the  jelly.  This  done,  a  piece  of 
paper  laid  on  top  of  the  jelly  will  absorb  any  fat  left  after 
skimming. 

The  jelly  is  now  ready  for  use  as  required.  If  a  sweet 
jelly  is  desired,  dissolve  one  pound  of  sugar,  and,  with  the 
juice  of  six  lemons,  add  to  the  stock  together  with  a  good- 
sized  glass  of  Madeira. 

Aspic  Jelly. 

Suitable  for  decoration  of  cold  entree,  etc.  Procure  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  gelatine  and  soak  in  cold  water  until  soft. 
Now  place  four  quarts  of  white  stock  in  a  six-quart  stewpan. 
To  this  add  one  or  two  chicken  carcases  cut  up  small  (this  is 
optional),  add  color  and  salt  to  taste.  When  the  stock  is  hot, 
add  to  it  the  swollen  gelatine  which  will  then  melt. 

Now  pass  two  pounds  of  gravy  beef  through  mincer;  put 
mince  into  a  bowl,  add  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and  squeeze 
into  the  meat  until  the  whole  is  compacted.  Put  this  into  the 
stewpan  with  the  stock,  stirring  it  in  well.  Now  add  a  little 
shredded  onion,  thyme  and  bay-leaves,  one  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
percorn, six  coriander  seeds,  and  a  morsel  of  celery,  and  bring 
to  a  boil. 


298  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Take  off  fire  and  allow  to  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Now 
cover  stewpan  and  leave  in  a  hot  place  for  twenty  minutes  to 
allow  the  mixture  quietly  to  settle.  Now  carefully  pour  off 
the  clear  liquid  through  a  very  clean  flannel  or  muslin  into  a 
bowl.  Next  morning  skim  off  fat  floating  at  the  top;  the  rest 
of  the  liquor  will  now  set  into  jelly,  and  may  be  used  as  re- 
quired. To  prevent  this  jelly  from  going  bad  it  should  be 
boiled  every  day,  the  surface  being  cleared  of  scum  and  froth 
by  passing  over  it  a  sheet  of  clean  paper. 

Madeira  is  added  as  required,  but  must  not  be  mixed  with 
jelly  stock,  otherwise  fermentation  will  be  set  up  and  the 
flavor  deteriorate. 

Apple  Jelly. 

Wipe  apples,  remove  stem  and  blossom  ends,  and  cut  in 
quarters.  Put  in  a  granite  or  porcelain-lined  preserving  ket- 
tle, and  add  cold  water  to  come  nearly  to  top  of  apples.  Cover, 
and  cook  slowly  until  apples  are  soft;  mash,  and  drain  through 
a  coarse  sieve.  Avoid  squezzing  apples,  which  makes  the  jelly 
cloudy.  Then  allow  juice  to  drip  through  a  double  thickness 
of  cheese-cloth  or  a  jelly  bag.  Boil  twenty  minutes,  add  an 
equal  quantity  of  heated  sugar;  boil  five  minutes,  skim,  and 
turn  into  glasses.  Put  in  a  sunny  window,  and  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours.  Cover,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 
Porter  apples  make  a  delicious  flavored  jelly.  If  apples  are 
pared,  a  much  lighter  jelly  may  be  made.  Gravenstein  apples 
make  a  very  spicy  jelly. 

To  HEAT  SUGAR. —  Put  in  a  granite  dish,  place  in  oven  leav- 
ing oven  door  ajar,  and  stir  occasionally. 

Quince  Jelly. 

Follow  recipe  for  apple  jelly,  using  quinces  in  place  of  apples, 
and  removing  seeds  from  fruit.  Quince  parings  are  often 
used  for  jelly,  the  better  part  of  the  fruit  being  used  for  bot- 
tling. 

Crab  Apple  Jelly. 

Follow  recipe  for  apple  jelly,  leaving  apples  whole  instead 
of  cutting  in  quarters. 

Currant  Jelly. 

Currants  are  in  the  best  condition  for  making  jelly  between 
June  28  and  July  3,  and  should  not  be  picked  in  dry  weather. 
Cherry  currants  make  the  best  jelly.  Equal  proportions  of 
red  and  white  currants  are  considered  desirable,  and  make  a 
lighter-colored  jelly. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  299 

Pick  over  currants,  but  do  not  remove  stems;  wash  and 
drain.  Mash  a  few  in  the  bottom  of  a  preserving  kettle,  using 
a  wooden  potato  masher;  so  continue  until  berries  are  used. 
Cook  slowly  until  currants  look  white.  Strain  through  a 
coarse  strainer,  then  allow  juice  to  drop  through  a  double 
thickness  of  cheese-cloth  or  a  jelly  bag.  Measure,  bring  to 
boiling-point,  and  boil  five  minutes;  add  an  equal  measure  of 
heated  sugar,  boil  three  minutes,  skim,  and  pour  into  glasses. 
Place  in  a  sunny  window,  and  let  stand  twenty-four  hours. 
Cover,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Currant  and  Raspberry  Jelly. 

Follow  recipe  for  currant  jelly,  using  equal  parts  of  currants 
and  raspberries. 

Blackberry   Jelly. 

Follow  recipe  for  currant  jelly,  using  blackberries  in  place 
of  currants. 

Raspberry  Jelly. 

Follow  recipe  for  currant  jelly,  using  raspberries  in  place 
of  currants.  Raspberry  jelly  is  the  most  critical  to  make,  and 
should  not  be  attempted  if  fruit  is  full  ripe,  or  if  it  has  been 
long  picked. 

Barberry  Jelly. 

Barberry  jelly  is  firmer  and  of  better  color  if  made  from 
fruit  picked  before  the  frost  comes,  while  some  of  the  berries 
are  still  green.  Make  same  as  currant  jelly,  allowing  one 
cup  water  to  one  peck  barberries. 

Grape  Jelly. 

Grapes  should  be  picked  over,  washed  and  stems  removed 
before  putting  into  a  preserving  kettle.  Heat  to  boiling-point, 
mash,  and  boil  thirty  minutes;  then  proceed  as  for  currant  jelly. 
Wild  grapes  make  the  best  jelly. 

Green  Grape  Jelly. 

Grapes  should  be  picked  when  just  beginning  to  turn.  Make 
same  as  grape  jelly. 

Jelly  for  Venison. 

One  peck  wild  grapes,  one  quart  vinegar,  a  quarter  cup  each 
of  whole  cloves  and  stick  cinnamon;  six  pounds  sugar. 

Put  first  four  ingredients  into  a  preserving  kettle,  heat 
slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  and  cook  until  grapes  are  soft. 
Strain  through  a  double  thickness  of  cheese-cloth  or  a  jelly 


300  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

bag,   and  boil  liquid  twenty  minutes;   then  add   sugar  heated, 
and  boil  five  minutes.     Turn  into  glasses. 

Damson  Jelly. 

Wipe  and  pick  over  damsons;  then  prick  several  times  with 
a  large  pin.  Make  same  as  currant  jelly,  using  three-fourths 
as  much  sugar  as  fruit  juice. 

JAMS. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries  are  the  fruits  most  often  em- 
ployed for  making  jams,  and  require  equal  weight  of  sugar 
and  fruit. 

Raspberry  Jam. 

Pick  over  raspberries.  Mash  a  few  in  the  bottom  of  a  pre- 
serving kettle,  using  a  wooden  potato  masher,  and  so  continue 
until  the  fruit  is  used.  Heat  slowly  to  boiling-point,  and 
add  gradually  an  equal  quantity  of  heated  sugar.  Cook  slowly 
forty-five  minutes.  Put  in  a  stone  jar  or  tumblers. 

Blackberry  Jam. 

Follow  recipe  for  raspberry  jam,  using  blackberries  in  place 
of  raspberries. 

Grape  Marmalade. 

Pick  over,  wash,  drain,  and  remove  stems  from  grapes. 
Separate  pulp  from  skins.  Put  pulp  in  preserving  kettle.  Heat 
to  boiling-point,  and  cook  slowly  until  seeds  separate  from 
pulp;  then  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Return  to  kettle  with 
skins,  add  an  equal  measure  of  sugar,  and  cook  slowly  thirty 
minutes,  occasionally  stirring  to  prevent  burning.  Put  in  a 
stone  jar  or  tumblers. 

Quince  Marmalade. 

Wipe  quinces,  remove  blossom  ends,  cut  in  quarters,  remove 
seeds;  then  cut  in  small  pieces.  Put  into  a  preserving  kettle, 
and  add  enough  water  to  nearly  cover.  Cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  burning. 

Orange  Marmalade. 

To  every  dozen  Seville  oranges  use  two  lemons.  Take 
a  cloth  and  rub  each  fruit  to  remove  all  dirt,  then  divide  into 
quarters.  Take  pulp  and  juice  (leaving  the  peel  quite  free) 
and  put  into  a  bowl.  In  doing  this  remove  all  pips.  Then 
cut  the  peel  very  finely  into  shreds  and  put  with  pulp  and  juice. 
After  all  are  cut,  weigh,  and  to  every  pound  of  shreds,  pulp 
and  juice  put  three  pints  of  cold  water.  Let  this  stand  for 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  301 

twenty-four  hours,  then  boil  it  till  shreds  of  peel  become  soft 
and  almost  transparent.  Generally  an  hour's  good  boiling  will 
be  sufficient.  Then  let  it  stand  another  twenty-four  hours, 
after  which  weigh  again,  and  to  every  pound  use  one  and  a 
quarter  pounds  of  sugar.  Then  boil  for  about  half  an  hour 
after  it  has  boiled  up,  stirring  to  prevent  burning.  It  is  better 
to  boil  quickly  as  color  and  -flavor  are  thereby  preserved.  If 
not  certain  as  to  the  marmalade  being  sufficiently  boiled,  take 
a  little  on  a  plate  and  set  to  cool.  If  it  jellies  then  it  is  done. 
Take  pan  from  the  stove  and  pour  marmalade  into  pots  and 
tie  down  securely. 

Orange  Marmalade.   (Another  Method.) 

Select  sour,  smooth-skinned  oranges,  usually  at  their  best  at 
end  of  January  and  during  February.  Weigh  oranges  and 
allow  three-fourths  their  weight  in  cut  sugar.  Remove  peel 
from  oranges  in  quarters.  Cook  peel  until  soft  in  enough  boil- 
ing water  to  cover;  drain,  remove  white  part  from  peel  by 
scraping  it  with  a  spoon.  Cut  this  yellow  rind  in  strips,  using 
a  sharp  knife.  This  is  more  quickly  accomplished  by  cutting 
through  two  or  three  pieces  at  a  time.  Divide  oranges  in  sec- 
tions, remove  seeds  and  tough  part  of  the  skin.  Put  into  a 
preserving  kettle  and  heat  to  boiling-point,  add  sugar  grad- 
ually, and  cook  slowly  one  hour;  add  rind,  and  cook  one  hour 
longer.  Turn  into  glasses. 

Orange  Marmalade.   (Another  Method.) 

Slice  nine  oranges  and  six  lemons  crosswise  with  a  sharp 
knife  as  thinly  as  possible,  remove  seeds,  and  put  in  a  preserv- 
ing kettle  with  four  quarts  water.  Cover,  and  let  stand  thirty- 
six  hours;  then  boil  for  two  hours,  add  eight  pounds  sugar, 
and  boil  one  hour  longer. 

Orange   and   Rhubarb    Marmalade. 

Remove  peel  in  quarters  from  eight  oranges  and  prepare  as 
for  orange  marmalade.  Divide  oranges  in  sections,  remove 
seeds  and  tough  part  of  skin.  Put  into  a  preserving  kettle, 
add  five  pounds  rhubarb,  skinned  and  cut  in  one-half  inch 
pieces.  Heat  to  boiling-point,  and  boil  one-half  hour;  then  add 
four  pounds  cut  sugar  and  cut  rind.  Cook  slowly  two  hours. 
Turn  into  glasses. 

Quince  Honey. 

Pare  and  grate  five  large  quinces.  To  one  pint  boiling 
water  add  five  pounds  sugar.  Stir  over  fire  until  sugar  is 


302  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

dissolved,  add  quinces  and  cook  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 
Turn  into  glasses.  When  cold  it  should  be  about  the  color 
and  consistency  of  honey. 

CANNING  AND  PRESERVING. 

Preserving  fruit  is  cooking  it  with  from  three-fourths  to 
its  whole  weight  of  sugar.  By  so  doing,  much  of  the  natural 
flavor  of  the  fruit  is  destroyed;  therefore  canning  is  usually 
preferred  to  preserving. 

Canning  fruit  is  preserving  sterilized  fruit  in  sterilized  air- 
tight jars,  the  sugar  being  added  to  give  sweetness.  Fruits 
may  be  canned  without  sugar  if  perfectly  sterilized,  that  is, 
freed  from  all  germ  life. 

Directions  for   Preserving. 

Fruit  for  preserving  should  be  fresh,  firm,  of  good  quality, 
and  not  over-ripe;  if  over-ripe,  some  of  the  spores  may  survive 
the  boiling,  then  fermentation  will  take  place  in  a  short  time. 

For  preserving  fruit,  allow  one-third  its  weight  in  sugar,  and 
two  and  one-half  to  three  cups  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar. 
Boil  sugar  and  water  ten  minutes  to  make  a  thin  syrup;  then, 
cook  a  small  quantity  of  the  fruit  at  a  time  in  the  syrup;  by 
so  doing,  fruit  may  be  kept  in  perfect  shape.  Hard  fruits, 
like  pineapple  and  quince,  are  cooked  in  boiling  water  until 
nearly  soft,  then  put  in  syrup  to  finish  cooking.  Sterilized 
jars  are  then  filled  with  fruit,  and  enough  syrup  added  to  over- 
flow jars.  If  there  is  not  sufficient  syrup,  add  boiling  water, 
as  jars  must  be  filled  to  overflow.  Introduce  a  spoon  between 
fruit  and  jar,  that  air  bubbles  may  rise  to  the  top  and  break; 
then  quickly  put  on  rubbers  and  screw  on  sterilized  covers. 
Let  stand  until  cold,  again  screw  covers,  being  sure  this  time 
that  jars  are  air-tight.  When  filling  jars,  place  them  on  a 
cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water. 

To   Sterilize  Jars. 

Wash  jars  and  fill  with  cold  water.  Set  in  a  kettle  on  a 
trivet  and  surround  with  cold  water.  Heat  gradually  to  boil- 
ing-point, remove  from  water,  empty,  and  fill  while  hot.  Put 
covers  in  hot  water,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  stand.  New  rub- 
bers should  be  used  each  season,  and  care  must  be  taken  that 
rims  of  covers  are  not  bent,  as  jars  cannot  then  be  hermet- 
ically sealed. 

Preserved  Peaches. 
Wipe  peaches  and  put  in  boiling  water,  allowing  them  to 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  303 

stand  just  long  enough  to  easily  loosen  skins.  Remove  skins 
and  cook  fruit  at  once,  that  it  may  not  discolor,  following  di- 
rections for  preserving.  Some  prefer  to  pare  peaches,  sprinkle 
with  sugar,  and  let  stand  over  night.  In  morning,  drain,  add 
water  to  fruit  syrup,  bring  to  boiling-point,  and  then  cook 
fruit.  Peaches  may  be  cut  in  halves,  or  smaller  pieces  if  de- 
sired. 

Preserved  Pears. 

Wipe  and  pare  fruit.  Cook  whole  with  stems  left  on,  or 
remove  stems,  cut  in  quarters  and  core.  Follow  directions 
for  preserving.  A  small  piece  of  ginger  root  or  a  few  slicings 
of  lemon  rind  may  be  cooked  with  syrup.  Bartlett  pears  are 
the  best  for  canning. 

Preserved  Pineapples. 

Remove  skin  and  eyes  from  pineapples;  then  cut  in  half- 
inch  slices  or  in  cubes,  at  the  same  time  discarding  the  core. 
Follow  directions  for  preserving.  Pineapples  may  be  shredded 
and  cooked  in  one-half  their  weight  of  sugar  without  water, 
and  then  put  in  jars.  When  put  up  in  this  way  they  are  usefiul 
for  the  makings  of  sherbets  and  fancy  desserts. 

Preserved  Quinces. 

Wipe,  quarter,  core  and  pare  quinces.  Follow  directions  for 
preserving.  Quinces  may  be  cooked  with  an  equal  weight  of 
sweet  apples  wiped,  quartered,  cored  and  pared;  in  this  case 
use  no  extra  sugar  for  apples. 

Preserved  Cherries. 

Use  large  white  or  red  cherries.  Wash,  remove  stems,  then 
follow  directions  for  preserving. 

Preserved  Huckleberries. 

Pick  over  and  wash  berries,  then  put  in  a  preserving  kettle 
with  a  small  quantity  of  water  to  prevent  berries  from  burning. 
Cook  until  soft,  stirring  occasionally,  and  put  in  jars.  No 
sugar  is  required,  but  a  sprinkling  of  salt  is  an  agreeable  ad- 
dition. 

Preserved  Rhubarb. 

Pare  rhubarb  and  cut  in  one  inch  pieces.  Pack  in  a  jar, 
put  under  cold  water  tap,  and  let  water  run  twenty  minutes, 
then  screw  on  cover.  Rhubarb  preserved  in  this  way  has  often 
been  known  to  keep  a  year. 

Preserved  Tomatoes. 
Wipe  tomatoes,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  let  stand  until 


304  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

skins  may  be  easily  removed.  Cut  in  pieces  and  cook  until 
thoroughly  scalded;  skim  often  during  cooking.  Fill  jars,  fol- 
lowing directions  given. 

Damson  Preserves. 

Wipe  damsons  with  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  wrung  out  of 
cold  water,  and  prick  each  fruit  five  or  six  times,  using  a  large 
needle;  then  weigh.  Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  three- fourths 
their  weight  in  sugar  with  water,  allowing  one  cup  to  each 
pound  of  sugar.  As  soon  as  syrup  reaches  boiling-point,  skim, 
and  add  plums,  a  few  at  a  time,  that  fruit  may  better  keep  in 
shape  during  cooking.  Cook  until  soft.  It  is  well  to  use  two 
kettles,  that  work  may  be  more  quickly  done,  and  syrup  need 
not  cook  too  long  a  time.  Put  into  glass  or  stone  jars. 

Strawberry  Preserves. 

Pick  over,  wash,  drain,  and  dry  strawberries;  then  weigh. 
Fill  glass  jars  with  berries.  Make  a  syrup  the  same  as  for 
damson  preserve,  cooking  the  syrup  fifteen  minutes.  Add 
syrup  so  as  to  overflow  jars;  let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  when 
fruit  will  have  shrunk,  and  more  fruit  must  be  added  to  fill 
jars.  Screw  on  covers,  put  on  a  trivet  in  a  kettle  of  cold 
water,  heat  water  to  boiling-point,  and  keep  just  below  boiling- 
point  one  hour. 

Raspberries  may  be  preserved  in  the  same  way. 

Raspberry  and  Currant  Preserve. 

Six  pounds  currants,  six  pounds  sugar,  eight  quarts  rasp- 
berries. 

Pick  over,  wash,  and  drain  currants.  Put  into  a  preserving 
kettle,  adding  a  few  at  a  time,  and  mash.  Cook  one  hour, 
strain  through  double  thickness  of  cheese-cloth.  Return  to 
kettle,  add  sugar,  heat  to  boiling-point,  and  cook  slowly  twenty 
minutes.  Add  one  quart  raspberries  when  syrup  again  reaches 
boiling-point,  skim  out  raspberries,  put  in  jar,  and  repeat  until 
raspberries  are  used.  Fill  jars  to  overflowing  with  syrup,  and 
screw  on  tops. 

Brandied  Peaches. 

One  peck  peaches,  half  their  weight  in  sugar,  one  quart  high- 
proof  alcohol  or  brandy. 

Remove    skins    from    peaches,    and   put   alternate    layers   of 
peaches  and  sugar   in  a  stone  jar;   then  add  alcohol.     Cover 
closely,  having  a  heavy  piece  of  cloth  under  cover  of  jar. 
Tutti  Frutti. 

Put  one  pint  brandy  into  a  stone  jar,  add  the  various  fruits 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  305 

as  they  come  into  market;  to  each  quart  of  fruit  add  the  same 
quantity  of  sugar,  and  stir  the  mixture  each  morning  until  all 
the  fruit  has  been  added.  Raspberries,  strawberries,  apricots, 
peaches,  cherries,  and  pineapples  are  the  best  to  use. 

Preserved  Red  Peppers. 

Wash  one  peck  red  peppers,  cut  a  slice  from  stem  end  of 
each,  and  remove  seeds;  then  cut  in  thin  strips  by  working 
around  and  around  the  peppers,  using  scissors  or  a  sharp  veg- 
etable knife.  Cover  with  boiling  water,  let  stand  two  minutes, 
drain,  and  plunge  into  ice-water.  Let  stand  ten  minutes,  again 
drain,  and  pack  solidly  into  pint  glass  jars.  Boil  one  quart 
vinegar  and  two  cups  sugar  fifteen  minutes.  Pour  this  over 
peppers,  so  as  to  overflow  jars,  cover,  and  keep  in  a  cold  place. 

Preserved  Melon  Rind. 

Pare  and  cut  in  strips  the  rind  of  ripe  melons.  Soak  in 
alum  water  to  cover,  allowing  two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered 
alum  to  each  quart  of  water.  Heat  gradually  to  boiling-point 
and  cook  slowly  ten  minutes.  Drain,  cover  with  ice-water, 
and  let  stand  two  hours;  drain  again,  and  dry  between  towels. 
Weigh,  allow  one  pound  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit,  and  one 
cup  of  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar.  Boil  sugar  and  water 
ten  minutes.  Add  melon  rind,  and  cook  until  tender.  Remove 
rind  to  a  stone  jar  and  cover  with  syrup.  Two  lemons  cut 
in  slices  may  be  cooked  for  ten  minutes  in  the  syrup  and  add  to 
the  flavor. 

Tomato  Preserve. 

Two  pounds  Yellow  Pear  tomatoes,  two  pounds  sugar,  four 
ounces  preserved  Canton  ginger,  four  lemons. 

Wipe  tomatoes,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  let  stand  until 
skins  may  be  easily  removed.  Add  sugar,  cover,  and  let  stand 
over  night.  In  the  morning  pour  off  syrup  and  boil  until  quite 
thick;  skim,  then  add  tomatoes,  ginger,  and  lemons  which  have 
been  sliced  and  the  seeds  removed.  Cook  until  tomatoes  have 
a  clarified  appearance. 

PICKLING. 

Pickling  is  preserving  in  any  salt  or  acid  liquor. 

Spiced    Currants. 

Fourteen  pounds  currants,  ten  pounds  brown  sugar,  six  ta- 
blespoonfuls  cinnamon,  six  tablespoonfuls  clove,  two  pints  vine- 
gar. 

Pick  over  currants,   wash,   drain,   and   remove   stems.     Put 


306  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

in  a  preserving  kettle,  add  sugar,  vinegar,  and  spices  tied  in  a 
piece  of  muslin.  Heat  to  boiling-point,  and  cook  slowly  one 
and  one-half  hours.  Store  in  a  stone  jar  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place.  Spiced  currants  are  a  delicious  accompaniment  to  cold 
meat. 

Sweet  Pickled  Peaches. 

One  peck  peaches,  four  pounds  brown  sugar;  two  pints  vine- 
gar, two  ounces  stick  cinnamon,  cloves. 

Boil  sugar,  vinegar  and  cinnamon  twenty  minutes.  Dip 
peaches  quickly  in  hot  water,  then  rub  off  the  fur  with  a  towel. 
Stick  each  peach  with  four  cloves.  Put  into  syrup  and  cook 
until  soft,  using  one-half  peaches  at  a  time. 

Sweet  Pickled  Pears. 

Follow  recipe  for  sweet  pickled  peaches,  using  pears  in  place 
of  peaches. 

Chili  Sauce. 

Twenty-four  medium-sized  ripe  tomatoes,  two  peppers, 
finely  chopped,  two  onions,  finely  chopped,  four  cupfuls  vinegar, 
six  tablespoonfuls  sugar;  two  tablespoonfuls  salt,  four  tea- 
spoonfuls  cloves,  four  teaspoonfuls  cinnamon,  four  teaspoon- 
fuls  allspice,  four  teaspoonfuls  grated  nutmeg. 

Peel  tomatoes  and  slice.  Put  in  a  preserving  kettle  with 
remaining  ingredients.  Heat  gradually  to  boiling-point,  and 
cook  slowly  two  and  one-half  hours. 

Ripe  Tomato  Pickle. 

Six  pints  tomatoes,  peeled  and  chopped,  two  cups  chopped 
celery,  eight  tablespoonfuls  chopped  red  peppers,  eight  table- 
spoonfuls  chopped  onion,  eight  tablespoonfuls  salt,  twelve  table- 
spoonfuls  sugar,  twelve  tablespoonfuls  mustard  seed,  one 
teaspoonful  clove,  one  teaspoon ful  cinnamon,  two  teaspoonfuls 
grated  nutmeg,  four  cups  vinegar. 

Mix  ingredients  in  order  given.  Put  in  .-a  stone  jar  and 
cover.  This  uncooked  mixture  must  stand  a  week  before  using, 
but  may  be  kept  a  year: 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  307 


CHEESE  DISHES. 

Welsh   Rarebit. 

Slice  down  some  good  rich  cheese  rather  thinly  into  a  very 
clean  stewpan  with  a  quarter  its  weight  of  butter,  and  two 
or  three  spoonfuls  of  porter,  good  ale,  or  new  milk,  as  you 
please,  and  according  to  the  quantity  of  the  cheese;  flavor  to 
taste  with  freshly-ground  black  pepper  and  dry  English  mus- 
tard. Stir  over  the  fire  until  all  is  thoroughly  melted  and  of  a 
thick  creamy  consistency;  pour  it  over  hot  buttered  toast,  which 
has  been  placed  in  a  hot  tin  or  a  fireproof  dish;  brown  the 
surface  in  the  oven  or  not,  as  you  like,  but  make  very  hot,  and 
serve  at  once. 

This  requires  careful  watching,  because  if  it  be  in  the  least 
overcooked  it  will  be  leathery.  It  should  be  served  directly  it 
is  ready. 

Baked  Cheese  Sandwiches. 

Cut  some  slices  of  good  rich  cheese,  about  a  third  of  an  inch 
thick,  season  lightly  with  freshly-ground  black  pepper  and  a 
drop  or  two  of  tarragon  vinegar;  then  place  them  between  two 
slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter;  trim  these  neatly  and  set 
them  in  the  oven,  serving  directly  the  bread  is  toasted. 

Parmesan  Puffs. 

Mix  four  and  a  half  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  four  ounces  of 
Parmesan  cheese,  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  two  eggs;  pound  these  all  thor- 
oughly in  a  mortar,  bind  them  with  a  well-beaten  egg,  shape 
into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  egg  and  breadcrumb  them 
and  fry  a  golden  brown  in  plenty  of  boiling  fat.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  at  once  very  hot,  garnished  with  parsley. 

Parmesan  Eggs. 

Take  a  flat  fireproof  dish  and  put  into  it  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  a  small  pat  of  butter,  some  spice,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
finely-grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Stir  over  the  stove.  Then 
break  into  it  five  or  six  eggs  and  sprinkle  the  whole  with  grated 
cheese.  Brown  and  serve. 

Cheese  Pie. 

Place  one  pint  of  milk  in  a  saucepan  and  let  it  become  hot, 
then  pour  it  on  to  one  tablespoonful  of  ground  rice,  previously 


308  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

mixed  with  a  little  cold  milk,  return  to  the  pan  and  stir  until 
the  mixture  thickens.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  add 
four  ounces  of  finely-grated  cheese,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  cayenne, 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Mix  all  well 
together,  and  then  add  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Butter 
a  pie-dish,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  it,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Sprinkle  grated  cheese  over  the  top 
before  serving. 

Cheese  Patties. 

Line  some  patty-pans  with  cheese  pastry,  and  fill  them  three 
parts  full  with  the  following  mixture:  Place  two  ounces  of 
finely-grated  breadcrumbs  in  a  bowl,  and  mix  into  them  one 
raw  egg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  milk;  then  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  finely-grated  cheese,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  the  same  of  pepper.  Mix  very  well.  Place  the  patties  in 
the  oven  and  bake  until  a  pale  brown.  The  mixture  will  swell 
slightly  in  baking.  Serve  very  hot. 

Cheese  Custard  Pudding. 

Put  two  ounces  of  finely-grated  cheese  into  a  bowl,  and  add 
to  it  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk. 
Trim  the  edge  of  a  pie-dish  with  cheese  pastry,  and  pour  in 
the  mixture.  Place  two  or  three  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

Cheese  Croutons. 

Take  six  rounds  of  bread,  three-quarters  inch  thick  and 
about  the  size  of  a  five-shilling  piece,  fry  them  a  golden  brown 
color,  sprinkle  thinly  over  them  a  dust  of  dry  mustard,  a  layer 
of  grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  them  in  a 
quick  oven  until  the  cheese  is  cooked,  then  place  a  spoonful  of 
hot  rice  on  each,  garnish  with  capers,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Cheese  Canapes. 

Grate  two  ounces  of  cheese  and  mix  it  smoothly  in  a  bowl 
with  a  dessertspoonful  of  mustard,  the  same  of  anchovy  sauce, 
a  shake  of  cayenne,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  dessertspoonful  of  an- 
chovy vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  yolks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs.  Mix  this  until  it  is  a  smooth  paste, 
then  spread  it  on  rounds  of  buttered  white  or  brown  bread. 
Chop  the  whites  of  the  eggs  finely,  or  press  them  through  a 
sieve  on  the  paste.  Serve  cold. 

Little    Cheese    Custards. 

Grate  finely  three  and  a  half  ounces  of  cheese  and  mix  it 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  309 

with  one  egg,  add  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  pour  the 
mixture  into  small  fireproof  dishes,  and  bake  from  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes.  Serve  very  hot. 

Cheese    and   Macaroni   Tartlets. 

Line  the  required  number  of  tartlet  pans  with  cheese  pastry 
(see  recipe).  tBoil  one  ounce  of  macaroni  in  just  as  much 
water  as  it  will  absorb.  When  soft,  cut  it  into  tiny  pieces, 
mix  with  one  ounce  of  finely-grated  cheese,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a 
pinch  of  cayenne,  and  bind  the  mixture  with  a  little  cream  or 
cheese  sauce.  Bake  for  ten  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Cheese  and  Egg  Toast. 

Boil  two  eggs  hard,  pound  them  in  the  mortar  with  enough 
cream  to  make  them  into  a  paste,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese.  Toast  a  round  of 
bread  from  a  tin  loaf,  cut  off  the  crust,  butter  it,  and  cut  into 
six  pieces,  spread  each  piece  thinly  with  anchovy  paste,  pile 
the  egg  mixture  on  the  top,  and  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and 
a  tiny  bit  of  butter  on  each  piece;  place  in  the  oven  to  get  hot, 
and  serve. 

Anchovy  Custards  on  Toast. 

Make  some  rounds  or  squares  of  buttered  toast,  and  keep 
them  hot.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  large  fil- 
bert into  a  small  enamel  saucepan;  when  melted,  pour  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
mix  well.  When  thick  and  creamy  pour  over  the  toast,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Cheese  Pastry  (Hot  or  Cold). 

Two  ounces  of  Parmesan  cheese,  a  saltspoonful  of  coralline 
pepper,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  butter,  the  yolk 
of  one  egg,  beaten  up  with  sufficient  water  to  mix  the  ingre- 
dients into  a  paste.  Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  and  other 
dry  ingredients,  add  the  mixed  egg  and  water.  Roll  out  once 
only. 

Cheese  Creams  in  Cases  (Hot  or  Cold). 

Take  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  flavor  with  white 
pepper  and  cayenne,  and  pound  with  cream  to  a  smooth  paste. 
If  required  hot,  place  a  spoonful  on  each  pastry  case,  make 
very  hot  and  sprinkle  with  coralline  pepper.  If  cold,  whip  the 
paste  and  garnish  with  yolk  of  egg  rubbed  through  a  sieve, 
one  portion  left  yellow,  the  other  colored  pink  with  carmine. 

Pastry  for  Cheese  Straws  and  Biscuits  (Hot  or  Cold). 

A  rich  and  short  pastry  is  required  for  these  savories.    Pro- 


310  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ceed  as  follows;  —  Three  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  three  ounces 
of  butter,  four  ounces  of  flour,  the  yolk  of  one  egg.  Salt  and 
cayenne.  Knead  well,  but  lightly,  and  roll  quickly  to  the  de- 
sired thickness.  For  biscuits  or  straws,  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  about  ten  minutes. 

Cheese   Straws   (Hot  or  Cold). 

Roll  out  the  pastry  and  cut  out  into  strips  about  three  to 
four  inches  long  by  one-third  of  an  inch  wide.  When  baked, 
pile  neatly  one  on  top  of  the  other,  or  twist  the  pastry  strips 
and  tie  into  little  bundles  with  a  twist  of  pastry,  and  bake. 

Cheese  Biscuits. 

Stamp  out  all  of  one  size,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold,  us- 
ing the  same  mixture  as  for  cheese  straws. 

Cheese  Tartlets. 

Prepare  eight  tiny  tartlet  cases  of  cheese  pastry.  Put  one 
ounce  of  butter,  and  one  dessertspoonful  of  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  bring  to  the  boil.  Stir  in  sufficient  very  fine  bread- 
crumbs to  make  a  stiff  mixture,  and  then  beat  in  the  yolk  of 
an  egg.  Add  pepper  and  salt,  cayenne,  and  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  finely  grated  cheese.  Stir  well  over  the  fire.  Fill  the 
tartlet  cases  with  this  mixture,  and  arrange  a  cross  of  filleted 
anchovy  cut  into  strips  on  each,  and  scatter  the  four  divisions 
thus  formed,  two  with  grated  egg  yolk,  and  two  with  coralline 
pepper.  Serve  very  hot.  Cases  of  fried  bread  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  pastry  cases. 

Cheese  Cream  Tartlets. 

Make  eight  tartlet  cases  of  cheese  pastry,  keep  hot.  Take 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-grated  cheese,  a  little  salt  and 
white  pepper,  and  mix  it  into  the  same  quantity  of  cream. 
Whip  all  well  together  and  fill  the  tartlet  cases,  arranging  the 
cream  in  a  pyramid.  Keep  back  a  little  of  the  cream  mixture, 
tint  it  pale  green  and  pipe  it  round  the  edge  of  the  tartlet  cases 
in  little  round  dots.  Serve  cold. 

Cheese  Puffets. 

Mix  together  three  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  one  egg,  one  teacupful  of  milk,  a  pinch  of  salt; 
place  in  ramakin  dishes,  and  bake  for  ten  minutes.     Serve  hot. 
Cheese  Zephyrs. 

Measure  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  dissolve  in  it  a  quarter 
ounce  of  gelatine  (four  sheets  of  white  leaf  gelatine)  ;  warm 
the  milk  and  when  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  strain  the  milk 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  311 

into  a  clean  pan,  add  two  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  and  stir 
over  a  fire  for  a  few  minutes;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Take  off  the  fire  and  when  a  little  cool,  add  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  whipped  cream.  Put  into  small  molds  and  let  it  set.  Turn 
out  and  garnish  the  top  of  each  mold  alternately,  with  coral- 
line pepper  and  sieved  yolk  of  egg.  This  must  be  served  cold. 

Savory  Cheese  Pancakes. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  bowl,  add  a  pinch 
of  salt  to  it  and  dust  of  cayenne;  whisk  two  eggs  and  pour 
them  gradually  into  the  flour,  mixing  it  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  then  add  by  degrees  half  a  pint  of  milk,  working  the 
batter  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth ;  cover  the  bowl  with  a  cloth 
and  let  the  batter  stand  for  an  hour.  Just  before  using  stir 
one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese  into  the  pan- 
cake mixture,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
Put  a  small  omelette-pan  on.  the  stove  (where  the  heat  is 
steady)  with  a  piece  of  dripping  in  it,  rather  larger  than  a  big 
walnut;  when  the  fat  is  boiling,  add  sufficient  of  the  batter  to 
evenly  cover  the  pan,  and  when  the  underside  is  lightly 
browned,  shake  the  pan  and  turn  the  pancake,  and  directly  it 
is  evenly  browned  on  the  other  side,  remove  it  from  the  pan, 
place  on  paper,  and  roll  it  up.  Serve  hot. 

Cheese  and  Macaroni  Balls. 

Boil  two  ounces  of  macaroni,  drain  and  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  grated  cheese,  the 
yolk  of  one  egg,  pepper  and  salt.  Cook  for  a  few  minutes. 
When  cold  form  into  balls,  roll  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs  and 
fry.  Serve  very  hot. 

Cheese  Fingers. 

Slice  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cheese  and  pound  in  a  mortar 
with  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  mustard 
and  curry  paste  mixed.  Serve  on  fingers  of  hot  buttered  toast. 

Cheese   Souffle. 

Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  as  soon  as  it 
has  melted  stir  in  half  an  ounce  of  sifted  flour.  Then  add  by 
degrees  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  and  stir  until  the 
mixture  thickens;  season  with'  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
cayenne,  and  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire.  When  the  mix- 
ture has  cooled  a  little,  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  then  stir  in  three  ounces  of  grated  cheese  and  very 
lightly  mix  in  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  whisked  to  a  stiff 


312  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

froth.     Pour  at  once  into  a  buttered  souffle  mold,  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven  for  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.     Serve  hot. 

Cheese   Custard. 

Take  six  ounces  of  cheese,  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
half  an  ounce  of  butter.  Beat  all  well  together,  and  bake  for 
about  half  an  hour  in  a  fireproof  dish,  in  not  too  hot  an  oven, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Cheese  Pudding. 

Beat  up  an  egg  with  a  teaspoonful  of  made  custard,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk  and  half  an  ounce  of  oiled  butter. 
To  this  add  half  a  pound  of  grated  cheese,  season  well  with 
salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Turn  the 
whole  into  a  buttered  dish  and  bake  gently  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

SAVORIES. 
Filleted  Deviled  Kipper  on  Toast. 

Fillet  the  kipper  in  the  usual  way.  Butter  some  toast. 
Place  fillet  on  top  and  cut  to  any  shape  you  may  fancy.  Put  a 
little  grated  cheese,  cayenne  pepper  or  black  pepper,  a  pinch 
of  breadcrumbs,  and  a  little  butter.  Put  in  the  paper  bag  and 
place  on  grid.  Allow  five  minutes  in  very  hot  overt  (350° 
Fahr.). 

Soft  Roe   a  la  Soyer. 

Place  half  the  roe  on  top  of  a  piece  of  buttered  toast,  put  a 
good  peeled  mushroom  on  top,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
and  a  little  piece  of  butter.  Place  the  other  half  of  the  roe  on 
top  of  the  mushroom,  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  a  pinch  of 
grated  cheese  (Parmesan  or  any  other  kind),  a  few  bread- 
crumbs and  another  piece  of  butter.  Place  in  paper  bag,  seal 
up,  and  place  on  grid.  Allow  ten  minutes  in  hot  oven  (320° 
Fahr.). 

Any  Savory  Made  With  Cheese  and  Cream. 
Put  a  little  flaked  cold  fish  with  a  sprinkling  of  Parmesan 
mixed  with   a  little  cream   on   a  slice  of  well-buttered  toast. 
Place  in  bag  and  cook  six  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven  (350° 
Fahr.). 

Savory  of  Lobster. 

Cut  a  small  lobster  from  head  to  tail.  Cut  flesh  into  small 
dice.  Put  in  small  stewpan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  white 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  313 

sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of  cream;  add  salt  and  cayenne  or 
other  pepper  to  taste,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan. 
Mix  up  well,  and  place  in  the  cavity  of  the  shells.  Put  a  little 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  on  top,  and  a  little  breadcrumbs  and 
butter.  Put  in  a  paper  bag.  Place  on  the  grid.  Allow  ten  min- 
utes in  hot  oven  (320°  Fahr.) 

Crab  and   Crayfish, 
can  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  with  a  like  excellent  result. 

Savory  Oysters. 

Take  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  one  teaspoonful  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  one  tablespoonful  of  cream,  the  liquor 
from  the  oysters,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Take  half  a  dozen 
deep  oyster  shells.  Put  a  little  of  the  above  mixture  at  the 
bottom;  then  put  the  raw  bearded  oyster  in  the  middle.  Add 
a  little  more  of  the  sauce  on  the  top,  with  a  little  breadcrumbs, 
and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Place  your  bag  on  the  grid.  Put 
your  oysters  carefully  inside.  Seal  up,  and  allow  eight  min- 
utes in  a  very  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.). 

Cheese   Biscuit. 

Take  four  ounces  of  flour,  three  ounces  of  butter,  one  yolk 
of  egg,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  a  pinch 
of  cayenne  pepper.  Mix  up  gently  and  form  a  paste.  Roll  to 
the  thickness  of  an  ordinary  biscuit,  and  cut  to  any  shape. 
Place  in  paper  bag,  arranged  so  as  not  to  touch  each  other. 
Allow  ten  to  twelve  minutes  in  hot  oven  (320°  Fahr.). 

This  biscuit  will  keep  for  months  in  a  dry  place,  and  with 
it  any  kind  of  savory  can  be  served. 


314  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


VEGETABLE  SALADS. 

Chapon. 

Cut  a  neat  square  of  crust  from  a  white  loaf,  sprinkle  it 
with  salt  and  rub  it  with  raw  onion  or  with  a  clove  of  garlic. 
Put  this  at  the  bottom  of  the  salad  bowl,  place  the  salad  on  it, 
and  mix  thoroughly.  Serve  immediately. 

French  Bean  Salad. 

Boil  the  beans  whole,  drain  and  dry  them  on  a  cloth;  when 
quite  cold  place  them  in  a  bowl  and  pour  over  them  some  salad 
oil,  shake  some  black  pepper  over  them  and  a  small  amount  of 
salt;  then  drop  over  them  a  few  drops  of  the  best  wine  vinegar, 
and  if  liked,  a  sprinkling  of  very  finely-minced  tarragon  and 
chives. 

Haricot  Bean  Salad. 

Soak  the  haricots  for  six  or  eight  hours  and  then  boil  them 
until  tender.  Leave  until  cold.  Pile  them  in  the  center  of  a 
salad  bowl  and  surround  with  shred  tomato  or  beetroot  and 
some  shred  celery.  Cover  with  whipped  cream,  flavored 
with  salt  and  pepper.  If  liked,  dip  the  haricot  in  oil  and 
vinegar  in  addition  to  the  cream.  Decorate  the  cream  with  a 
little  cayenne  pepper,  and  arrange  the  beetroot  so  that  it  makes 
a  red  border  to  the  white  pyramid  of  cream. 

Lettuce  Stalk   Salad. 

Take  the  stalks  from  lettuces  running  to  seed  and  tie  them 
in  bundles,  cutting  them  more  or  less  of  the  same  size.  Place 
in  a  saucepan  and  boil  until  tender,  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 
Take  out  and  drain  them,  and  allow  them  to  get  quite  cold. 
Then  cut  up  into  slices  of  the  same  size,  place  in  a  salad  bowl 
and  cover  with  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Apple  and  Celery  Salad. 

This  salad  consists  of  sliced  apple  and  shred  celery;  and  is 
dressed  with  mayonnaise  sauce  or  with  whipped  cream,  fla- 
vored with  salt  and  pepper. 

Nut  and  Celery  Salad. 

Crack  some  Brazil  nuts  and  cut  the  kernels  into  three  or 
four  pieces.  Take  an  equal  quantity  of  crisp  cleanly-washed 
and  shred  celery.  Mix  together  and  dress  with  mayonnaise 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  315 

sauce.     Pile  in  the  center  of  the  salad  bowl,  and  garnish  with 
sliced  tomato  or  beetroot. 

Walnut  and  Celery  Salad. 

This  salad  is  simply  two-thirds  of  celery  to  one-third  wal- 
nuts tossed  in  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Walnut   Salad. 

Stew  some  green  peas  with  butter  and  a  little  water  till  quite 
done,  and  then  let  them  get  cold.  Chop  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
walnuts,  after  removing  the  skins,  mix  them  well  with  the  peas 
and  cover  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Winter  Salad. 

Scald  and  then  boil  one  or  two  large  onions  till  soft.  When 
cold  slice  the  onion,  mix  with  shred  celery  and  sliced  beetroot. 
Dress  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Flemish  Salad. 

Chop  one  pickled  herring  after  removing  the  skin  and  bones, 
and  add  two  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut  into  small  dice,  a  small 
sour  apple  peeled,  cored,  and  chopped  up  small,  a  little  cooked 
cauliflower,  a  handful  of  heart  of  celery  finely  shredded,  and 
a  few  slices  of  pickled  beetroot  cut  into  thin  strips.  Season 
well  with  pepper  and  salt,  oil,  and  vinegar,  but  mix  carefully 
in  the  salad  bowl  in  order  that  it  may  not  have  a  messy  ap- 
pearance. 

Russian  Salad. 

Cut  up  some  beetroot  into  shapes,  add  to  this  a  little  chopped 
celery,  some  turnip,  carrot,  potato,  all  cooked  and  cut  into  dice; 
pour  some  mayonnaise  over  it  all,  mix  well,  and  garnish  with 
bunches  of  cress. 

Lettuce   and  Tomato    Salad. 

For  this  proceed  exactly  as  for  a  plain  lettuce  salad,  but  add 
a  ring  of  fresh  tomato,  peeled,  and  not  too  thinly  sliced. 

Potato    Salad. 

Take  sufficient  boiled  potatoes,  cut  them  in  slices  and  while 
still  hot  at  once  dress  them  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt, 
and  minced  parsley,  or  any  herbs  that  may  be  liked.  But- 
ter or  cream  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  oil,  and  some  people 
add  finely-sliced  gherkins  and  beetroot  with  capers  and  minced 
anchovies. 

This  salad  should  be  eaten  very  cold,  and  when  prepared  as 
above  is  better  than  if  made  of  cold  potatoes. 


3i6  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cabbage   and   Potato    Salad. 

Cut  in  thin  slices  equal  quantities  of  cold  boiled  potatoes, 
a  pickled  red  cabbage,  and  one-third  as  much  white  celery 
very  finely  shreded.  Mix  thoroughly  in  a  salad  bowl,  seasoning 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  over  the  whole  some  mayon- 
naise or  any  good  salad  dressing. 

Sardine  and  Onion  Salad. 

Peel  half  a  dozen  small  onions,  make  a  little  hole  in  the 
middle  of  each,  and  fill  it  with  butter.  Then  bake  in  a  cov- 
ered pan  for  an  hour.  Let  them  get  quite  cold  and  then  slice 
carefully,  adding  six  minced  sardines  —  which  must  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned  from  oil,  bones,  and  skin  —  and  six  hard-boiled 
eggs  cut  in  slices.  Sprinkle  freely  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  parsley,  and  add  a  dressing  composed  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  lemon  juice  and  olive  oil. 

This  salad  is  served  very  cold  with  slices  of  toast. 

Endive  Salad. 

Trim  and  cut  up  finely  a  good-sized  head  of  endive,  and 
add  a  dressing  made  of  two  parts  of  olive  oil  to  one  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  paste,  a  little  celery  seed, 
and  pepper  and  salt.  Place  in  the  salad  bowl  a  hard  crust  which 
has  been  well  rubbed  with  a  clove  of  garlic.  Add  the  salad 
with  its  dressing,  and  toss  the  whole  for  a  few  minutes,  after 
which  remove  the  crust.  This  gives  just  a  suspicion  of  garlic 
without  offending  the  taste. 

Carrot  Salad. 

Cut  up  eight  carrots  into  small  dice  —  cooked  ones  may  be 
used  if  preferred,  but  are  not  so  good  —  and  add  three  sliced 
raw  tomatoes,  a  handful  of  watercress  in  small  branches,  and 
one  minced  onion.  Mix  with  half  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  dress- 
ing and  place  on  a  bed  of  lettuce  leaves,  garnishing  with  capers. 
Hot  Cabbage  Salad. 

Cut  a  red  cabbage  in  very  fine  strips  and  mix  well  with 
melted  bacon  fat  or  goose  grease,  seasoning  with  pepper,  salt 
and  vinegar.  Place  in  earthenware  cooking  pot  and  keep  by 
the  fire  until  the  cabbage  is  thoroughly  soft.  Stir  in  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  just  before  serving. 

This  salad  is,  of  course,  eaten  hot,  as  it  would  not  be  very 
desirable  cold. 

Watercress  Salad. 

Wash  the  sprigs  of  young  watercress  very  thoroughly  and 
mix  with  a  dressing  made  in  the  following  way :  — 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  317 

Put  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  half  as  much  pepper  into  a 
cup  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
then  add  gradually  two  more  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  one 
of  vinegar,  with  a  little  onion  juice  if  liked. 

The  better  plan  is  only  to  rub  the  inside  of  the  salad  bowl 
with  an  onion  or  a  clove  of  garlic;  omitting  the  onion  juice. 

Artichoke  Salad. 

Boil  the  number  of  Japanese  artichokes  required  for  five 
minutes,  and  when  cold  place  in  a  salad  bowl  with  slices  of 
cold  boiled  beetroot  and  celery.  Cover  with  mayonnaise  sauce. 
Garnish  with  beetroot  and  celery. 

Vegetable  Marrow  Salad. 

Boil  or  steam  the  marrow,  drain,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
neat  pieces,  place  in  a  salad  bowl  with  a  dressing  of  oil  and 
vinegar. 

Shrimp  Salad. 

Cut  up  some  boiled  asparagus  tips  into  short  pieces,  and  add 
an  equal  quantity  of  boiled  shrimps  picked  and  cut  up,  unless 
they  happen  to  be  very  small  ones.  Add  some  capers,  a  little 
French  mustard,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  mayonnaise  dress- 
ing. 

This  should  be  served  upon  lettuce  leaves,  and  with  toast. 

Anchovy  Cheese  Creams. 

Make  round  biscuits  of  the  cheese  pastry,  and  arrange  on 
each  some  strips  of  anchovy  and  some  capers,  and  then  pile 
on  each  some  whipped  cream  flavored  with  essence  of  anchovy 
and  a  little  salt,  and  colored  a  pale  pink. 

Orange  Salad. 

Orange  salad  simply  consists  of  the  sections  of  oranges 
free  from  the  pith  and  skin,  string  and  pips,  arranged  in  a 
bowl,  and  dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

Orange  and  Cherry  Salad. 

This  salad  consists  of  glace  cherries  arranged  in  the  center 
of  the  bowl,  surrounded  by  sections  of  oranges,  and  dressed 
with  the  same  mixture. 


3i8          STANDARD  COOKERY. 


FRUITS:  FRESH,  PRESERVED. 

Fruits  are  usually  at  their  best  when  served  ripe  and  in  sea- 
son; a  few  cannot,  however,  be  eaten  in  their  raw  state,  while 
others  are  rendered  more  easy  of  digestion  by  cooking.  The 
methods  employed  are  stewing  and  baking.  Fruit  should  be 
cooked  in  earthen  or  granite  ware  utensils,  and  silver  or 
wooden  spoons  should  be  employed  for  stirring,  as  when  they 
are  exposed  to  air  and  brought  into  contact  with  an  iron  or 
tin  surface  a  poisonous  compound  may  be  formed. 

To   Prepare   Strawberries. 

1.  Pick   over    strawberries,    place    in    colander,    pour   over 
cold  water,  drain  thoroughly,  dry  lightly  in  a  cloth,  and  turn 
into  dish.     Serve  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream. 

2.  Pick  over  selected  strawberries,  place  in  colander,  pour 
over  cold  water,  and  drain  thoroughly.     Press  powdered  sugar 
into  cordial  glasses,  and  turn  out  on  to  fruit  plates.     Arrange 
twelve  berries  around  each  mold  of  sugar.     Berries  served  in 
this  way  should  not  be  dried. 

To  Prepare  Canteloupes. 

Canteloupes  and  muskmelons  should  be  very  ripe  and  thor- 
oughly chilled  before  being  prepared  for  serving.  Wipe 
melons  —  if  small,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise;  if  larger,  cut  in 
sections,  and  remove  seeds  and  stringy  portion.  If  one-half 
is  served  as  a  portion,  put  in  seed  cavity  one  tablespoonful  of 
crushed  ice.  Serve  with  powdered  sugar. 

To  Prepare  Grapes. 

Put  bunches  in  colander  and  pour  over  cold  water,  drain, 
chill,  and  arrange  on  serving  dish.  Imperfect  grapes,  as  well 
as  those  under-ripe  or  over-ripe,  should  be  removed  with  sharp- 
pointed  scissors.  Garnish  with  grape  leaves,  if  procurable. 

To   Prepare   Oranges. 

I.  Wipe  orange  and  cut  in  halves  crosswise  (not  through 
the  stalk  and  eye).  Place  one-half  on  a  fruit  plate,  having 
an  orange  spoon  or  teaspoon  on  plate  at  right  of  fruit.  Serve 
with  powdered  sugar. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  319 

2.  Peel  an  orange  and  remove  as  much  of  the  white  portion 
as  possible.     Remove  pulp  by  sections,  which  may  be  accom- 
plished by  using  a  sharp  knife  and  cutting  pulp  from  tough 
portion  first  on  one  side  of  section,  then  on  the  other.     Should 
there  be  any  white  portion  of  skin  remaining  on  pulp  it  should 
be  cut  off.    Arrange  sections  on  glass  dish  or  fruit  plate.    If 
the  orange  is  a  seeded  one,  remove  seeds. 

3.  Remove  peel  from  an  orange  in  such  a  way  that  there 
remains  a  one-half  inch  band  of  peel  equal  distance  from  stem 
and  blossom   end.     Cut  band,   separate  sections,   and   arrange 
around  a  mold  of  powdered  sugar. 

To  Prepare  Grape  Fruit. 

Wipe  grape  fruit  and  cut  in  halves  crosswise  as  directed  for 
oranges.  With  a  small,  sharp-pointed  knife  make  a  cut  separ- 
ating pulp  from  skin  around  entire  circumference;  then  make 
cuts  separating  pulp  from  tough  portion  in  one  piece,  which 
may  be  accomplished  by  one  cutting  with  scissors  at  stem  or 
blossom  end  close  to  skin.  Sprinkle  fruit  pulp  left  in  grape 
fruit  skin  generously  with  sugar.  Let  stand  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  very  cold.  Place  on  fruit  plate  and  garnish  with  a  candied 
cherry. 

Grape  Fruit. 

Prepare  grape  fruit  as  above,  add  to  each  portion  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sherry  wine,  and  let  stand  one  hour  in  ice  box 
or  cold  place. 

Grape  Fruit  With  Apricot  Brandy. 

Prepare  grape  fruit  for  serving  and  add  to  each  portion  one- 
half  tablespoonful  of  apricot  brandy. 

Grape  Fruit  With  Sloe   Gin. 

Prepare  grape  fruit  for  serving  and  add  to  each  portion  one- 
half  tablespoonful  of  sloe  gin. 

Fruit   Cocktail. 

Remove  pulp  from  grape  fruit,  and  mix  in  a  bowl  with 
shredded  pineapple,  bananas  cut  in  slices  and  then  quartered, 
and  strawberries  cut  in  halves,  using  half  as  much  pineapple 
and  banana  as  grape  fruit,  and  allowing  four  strawberries 
to  each  person.  Pour  over  a  dressing  made  of  one-third  cupful 
sherry  wine,  three  tablespoonfuls  apricot  brandy,  one-half 
cupful  sugar,  and  a  few  grains  salt.  Chill  thoroughly,  serve  in 
double  cocktail  glasses,  and  garnish  with  candied  cherries. 


320  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Baked  Apples. 

Procure  sour  apples,  wipe  and  core.  Score  right  round 
faintly  with  a  sharp  knife  and  put  in  a  baking-dish  filling 
cavities  from  whence  core  was  removed  with  sugar  and  one 
drop  of  lemon  juice.  Allow  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  and  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg  to  eight  apples.  If 
nutmeg  is  used,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  few  gratings 
from  rind  of  lemon  to  each  apple  is  an  improvement.  Slightly 
cover  bottom  of  dish  with  boiling  water,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
until  soft,  basting  often  with  syrup  in  dish.  Serve  hot  or  cold 
with  cream.  Many  prefer  to  pare  apples  before  baking.  When 
this  is  done,  core  before  paring,  that  fruit  may  keep  in  shape. 

Baked    Sweet   Apples. 

Wipe,  core,  and  score  eight  sweet  apples.  Put  in  a  baking- 
dish,  and  fill  cavities  with  sugar.  Add  two-thirds  cupful  boil- 
ing water.  Cover,  and  bake  three  hours  in  a  slow  oven,  add- 
ing more  water  if  necessary. 

Apple  Sauce. 

Wipe,  quarter,  core  and  pare  eight  sour  apples.  Make  a 
syrup  by  boiling  seven  minutes  one  cupful  sugar  and  one  cup- 
ful water  with  thin  shavings  from  rind  of  a  lemon.  Remove 
lemon,  add  enough  apples  to  cover  bottom  of  saucepan,  watch 
carefully  during  cooking,  and  remove  as  soon  as  soft.  Con- 
tinue until  all  are  cooked.  Strain  remaining  syrup  over 
apples. 

Spiced  Apple  Sauce. 

Wipe,  quarter,  core  and  pare  eight  sour  apples.  Put  in  a 
saucepan,  sprinkle  with  one  cupful  sugar,  add  eight  cloves, 
and  enough  water  to  prevent  apples  from  burning.  Cook  to 
a  mush,  stirring  occasionally. 

Apple  Ginger. 

Wipe,  quarter,  core,  pare  and  chop  two  and  a  half  pounds 
of  sour  apples.  Put  in  a  stewpan  and  add  one  and  a  half 
pounds  light  brown  sugar,  the  juice  and  rind  of  one  and  a 
half  lemons,  one-half  ounce  of  ginger  root,  a  few  grains  salt, 
and  enough  water  to  prevent  apples  from  burning.  Cover,  and 
cook  slowly  four  hours,  adding  water  as  necessary.  Apple 
ginger  may  be  kept  for  several  weeks. 

Baked   Bananas. 

Remove  skins  from  six  bananas  and  cut  in  halves  lengthwise. 
Put  in  a  shallow  granite  pan  or  on  an  old  platter.  Mix  two 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  321 

tablespoonfuls  melted  butter,  one-third  cupful  sugar,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice.  Baste  bananas  with  one-half  the 
mixture.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven,  basting  dur- 
ing baking  with  remaining  mixture. 

Baked  Bananas.  (Another  Method.) 

Arrange  bananas  in  a  shallow  pan,  cover,  and  bake  until 
skins  become  very  dark  in  color.  Remove  from  skins,  and 
serve  hot  sprinkled  with  sugar. 

Sauted  Bananas. 

Remove  skins  from  bananas,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise  and 
again  halved.  Dredge  with  flour,  and  saute  in  clarified  butter. 
Drain,  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Baked  Peaches. 

Peel,  cut  in  halves,  and  remove  stones  from  six  peaches. 
Place  in  a  shallow  granite  pan.  Fill  each  cavity  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  butter,  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice,  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Cook  twenty 
minutes,  and  serve  on  circular  pieces  of  buttered  dry  toast. 

Baked  Pears. 

Wipe,  quarter  and  core  six  pears.  Put  in  a  deep  pudding- 
dish,  sprinkle  with  sugar  or  a  little  molasses,  then  add  water  to 
prevent  pears  from  burning.  Cover,  and  cook  two  or  three 
hours  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Baked  Quinces. 

Wipe,  quarter,  core,  and  pare  eight  quinces.  Put  in  a  bak- 
ing-dish, sprinkle  with  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  add 
one  and  one-half  cupfuls  water,  cover,  and  cook  until  soft  in 
a  slow  oven.  Quinces  require  a  long  time  for  cooking. 

Cranberry  Sauce. 

Pick  over  and  wash  three  cupfuls  cranberries.  Put  in  a 
stewpan,  add  one  and  one-fourth  cupfuls  sugar  and  one  cup- 
ful boiling  water.  Cover,  and  boil  ten  minutes.  Care  must 
be  taken  that  they  do  not  boil  over.  Skim  and  cool. 

Cranberry  Jelly. 

Pick  over  and  wash  four  cupfuls  of  cranberries.  Put  in  a 
stewpan  with  one  cupful  boiling  water,  and  boil  twenty  min- 
utes. Rub  through  a  sieve,  add  two  cupfuls  sugar,  and  cook 
five  minutes.  Turn  into  a  mold  or  glasses. 

Stewed  Prunes. 
Wash  and  pick  over  prunes.    Put  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with 


322  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

cold  water,  and  soak  two  hours;  then  cook  in  same  water 
until  soft.  When  nearly  cooked,  add  sugar  or  molasses  to 
sweeten.  The  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  is  a 
great  improvement. 

Rhubarb  Sauce. 

Peel  and  cut  rhubarb  into  one  inch  pieces.  Put  in  a  sauce- 
pan, sprinkle  generously  with  sugar,  and  add  a  small  quantity 
of  water  to  prevent  rhubarb  from  burning.  Rhubarb  con- 
tains such  a  large  percentage  of  water  that  but  little  addi- 
tional water  is  needed.  Cook  until  soft.  If  rhubarb  is  cov- 
ered with  boiling  water,  allowed  to  stand  five  minutes,  then 
drained  and  cooked,  less  sugar  will  be  required.  Rhubarb  is 
sometimes  baked  in  an  earthen  pudding-dish.  If  baked  slowly 
for  a  long  time  it  has  a  rich  red  color. 

Pears,  Border  of. 

Take  four  pounds  of  small  stewing  pears,  one  pound  of  loaf 
sugar,  four  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  six 
sponge  cakes,  four  whole  eggs,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  the  grated 
rind  of  one  lemon,  two  inches  of  cinnamon,  two  gills  of  milk, 
carmine  or  cochineal. 

Peel  and  halve  and  core  the  pears,  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  syrup  made  with  the  loaf  sugar,  two  pints  of  water,  and 
a  few  drops  of  carmine,  and  cook  the  pears  gently  for  about 
one-half  an  hour,  or  until  tender.  Remove  the  pears,  reduce 
the  syrup  by  rapid  boiling,  and  re-heat  the  pears  in  it  before 
serving.  Meanwhile  beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  castor 
sugar,  lemon  rind,  milk,  and  a  few  drops  of  cochineal.  Slice 
the  sponge  cakes,  place  them  in  a  well-buttered  border  mold, 
pour  in  the  custard,  and  bake  for  about  forty  minutes  in  the 
oven,  in  a  tin  containing  boiling  water  to  half  the  depth  of 
the  mold.  When  ready,  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the 
pears  on  the  border,  strain  the  syrup  over  them,  and  serve. 

Fruit  Salad. 

Take  four  peeled  and  thinly-sliced  bananas,  half  a  pound 
of  well-washed  and  dried  black  grapes,  ditto  strawberries,  an 
apple,  two  large  oranges.  Pinch  each  grape  slightly.  Hull  the 
strawberries  and  peel  and  slice  the  apple  and  oranges  very 
thinly.  Mix  all  well  together  in  a  deep  bowl.  Add  to  them  the 
contents  of  a  small  bottle  of  raspberry  syrup  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  brandy.  Mix  well.  Leave  on  ice  till  needed.  Serve  with 
Devonshire  cream  or  brandy  butter,  handed  separately. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  323 


HORS-D'CEUVRES. 

To  Make  Clarified  Butter. 

Take  one  pound  of  butter  and  melt  it  in  a  stewpan  large 
enough  to  hold  twice  the  quantity.  Remove  the  scum  which 
rises,  and  when  the  butter  is  clear  strain  through  a  muslin. 
It  is  then  ready  for  frying  crotonnes  and  for  cooking  sauces, 
etc.  The  clarifying  has  the  effect  of  freeing  the  milk  from  the 
butter,  which  thus  prevents  the  burning  of  articles  cooked  in 
the  butter. 

VARIOUS    BUTTERS    FOR    HORS-D'CEUVRES, 

Butters  and  Creams. 

The  seasoning  of  butters  for  hors-d'oeuvres  when  preparing 
in  advance,  ought  to  be  placed  in  a  bowl,  and  put  somewhere 
in  the  cool,  covered  with  an  oiled  paper. 

Anchovy  Butter. 

Wash  twelve  or  fifteen  anchovies  in  cold  water,  and  dry  them 
thoroughly.  Remove  the  fillets  from  the  bones,  pound  them 
smoothly  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  rub  the  whole  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  put  aside. 

Caviare  Butter. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  pressed  caviare  with  three  ounces  of 
butter,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Shrimp  Butter. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  shrimps  with  three  ounces  of  butter; 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve  after  having  softened  the  preparation. 

Curry  Butter. 

Soften  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  bowl,  and  add  thereto 
sufficient  Madras  curry-paste  to  ensure  a  decided  taste.  The 
exact  quantity  of  curry  cannot  be  prescribed,  since  the  quality 
of  the  latter  entirely  governs  its  apportionment. 

Crayfish  Butter. 

Cook  the  crayfish  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mirepoix. 
Finely  pound  the  shells  after  having  removed  the  tails,  and 
add  thereto  three  ounces  of  butter  per  two  ounces ;  rub  through 
a  fine  sieve  and  add  a  little  cochineal. 

The  whole  crayfish  may  be  pounded,  but  the  tails  are  us- 


324  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ually  laid  aside  with  a  view  to  supplying  the  garnish  of  the 
toasts  for  which  the  butter  is  intended. 

Red-Herring  Butter. 

Take  the  fillets  of  three  red-herrings;  remove  the  skins,  and 
finely  pound  with  three  ounces  of  butter.  Rub  through  a  fine 
sieve. 

Lobster  Butter. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  lobster  trimmings  and  spawn,  if  any, 
and  a  little  of  the  coral  with  four  ounces  of  butter.  Rub 
through  a  fine  sieve.  (If  no  coral,  cochineal  will  do.) 

Horse-Radish   Butter. 

Grate  two  ounces  of  horse-radish  and  pound  with  three 
ounces  of  butter.  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Smoked  Salmon  Butter. 

Finely  pound  three  ounces  of  smoked  salmon  with  as  much! 
butter,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Paprika   Butter. 

Soften  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  bowl,  and  mix  therewith 
a  pinch  of  paprika  infused  in  a  few  drops  of  white  wine  or 
consomme,  to  strengthen  the  color  of  the  paprika. 

Pimento  Butter. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  preserved  or  freshly-cooked  capsicum, 
or  chili,  add  as  much  butter  thereto,  and  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve. 

Caviare  Cream. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  preserved  caviare  and  add  thereto, 
gradually,  one  tablespoonful  of  fresh  cream  and  two  ounces  of 
softened  butter.  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  finish  the  prep- 
aration by  an  addition  of  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whisked  cream, 
a  little  cayenne.  Be  careful  not  to  whip  cream  too  much. 

Lobster   Cream. 

Pound  three  ounces  of  lobster  trimmings,  spawn  and  coral, 
and  add  thereto  three  tablespocnfuls  of  fresh  cream  and  two 
ounces  of  softened  butter. 

Rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  complete  with  whisked  cream, 
as  above. 

Game  Cream. 

Pound  four  ounces  of  cold,  cooked  game  meat,  minus  skin 
and  bones,  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  cream  and  two 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  325 

ounces  of  softened  butter.     Rub  through  a  sieve  and  finish  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  whisked  cream. 

Smoked  Salmon  Cream. 

Finely  pound  three  ounces  of  smoked  salmon,  adding  grad- 
ually three  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  cream  and  two  ounces  of 
softened  butter.  Rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve, 
and  finish  with  an  addition  of  three  tablespoonfuls  of  whisked 
cream. 

Tunny  Cream. 

Finely  pound  four  ounces  of  tunny  in  oil,  and  finish  the 
cream  similarly  to  that  of  the  smoked  salmon.  Season  to  taste. 

Chicken  Cream. 

Finely  pound  three  ounces  of  cold  fowl  (white  parts  only) 
and  add  thereto  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  cream  and  one 
ounce  of  softened  butter.  Rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  and 
finish  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  whisked  cream. 

HORS-D'CEUVRES. 

Anchovy  Allumettes. 

Roll  some  puff  paste  trimmings  into  strips  three  inches  wide 
and  one-tenth  inch  thick.  Spread  thereon  a  thin  coating  of 
fish  stuffing,  finished  with  anchovy  butter,  and  cayenne  pepper; 
lay  the  anchovy  fillets,  prepared  beforehand,  lengthwise  on  this 
stuffing,  and  cut  into  pieces  about  one  inch  wide.  Place  the 
pieces  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  ten  min- 
utes. 

Anchovy  Fillets. 

Cut  each  halved  anchovy,  which  should  have  been  previously 
marinaded  in  oil,  into  two  or  three  little  fillets.  Place  them 
across  each  other  in  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish,  in  the  form  of  a  lat- 
tice; garnish  with  chopped  parsley  and  the  chopped  white  and 
yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  alternating  the  colors.  Put  a  few 
capers  on  the  fillets,  and  sprinkle  moderately  with  oil. 

Rolled  Anchovies. 

Turn  some  fine  olives  and  stuff  them  with  anchovy  butter, 
when  quite  cold,  encircle  them  with  a  ring  of  anchovy  fillet, 
kept  whole. 

Paupiettes  of  Anchovy. 

Prepare  some  thick  slices  of  blanched  cucumber,  about  the 
size  of  half-crowns,  and  hollow  their  centers  slightly.  Place 
rings  composed  of  the  fillets  of  anchovies  in  oil  upon  these 


326  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

slices,  and  fill  up  their  centers  with  cream  of  any  fish  or  shell- 
fish. 

Anchovy  With  Pimentos. 

Prepare  some  anchovy  fillets  in  oil,  and  place  them  across 
each  other  using  fillets  of  pimento  alternately  with  those  of  the 
anchovies.  Garnish  as  for  anchovy  fillets,  i.  e.,  with  the 
chopped  white  and  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  and  chopped 
parsley. 

Eel  With  White  Wine  and  Paprika. 

Divide  the  eel  into  lengths  of  three  and  a  half  inches ;  poach 
in  exactly  the  same  way  as  for  matelote,  but  with  white  wine 
and  paprika  seasoning.  Let  them  cool  in  thier  cooking-liquor, 
cut  the  pieces  lengthwise  into  large  fillets,  and  cover  them  with 
the  liquor  after  all  grease  has  been  removed. 

Eel  Au  Vert. 

Stew  in  butter  two  ounces  of  sorrel,  one-quarter  ounce  each 
of  parsley  and  chervil,  a  few  tarragon  leaves,  one-quarter  ounce 
of  savory,  a  sprig  of  green  thyme,  and  a  few  sage-leaves  all 
of  which  must  be  chopped.  Remove  the  skins  from  two 
pounds  of  small  eels,  remove  the  heads,  and  cut  into  pieces 
two  inches  long.  Put  these  pieces  with  the  herbs,  stiffen  them 
well,  and  add  one  pint  of  white  wine  and  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Set  to  cook  for  ten 
minutes,  thicken  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice,  and  leave  to  cool  in  a  bowl.  This  preparation 
of  eel  is  served  very  cold. 

Artichoke  Bottoms. 

Remove  the  leaves  and  the  hearts  of  some  little  artichokes; 
trim  their  remaining  bases,  and  plunge  each  as  soon  as  trimmed 
into  acidulated  water  lest  they  blacken.  Cook  them  as  Jeru- 
salem artichokes,  leave  them  to  cool  in  their  liquor. 

Drain  well,  dry  and  place  them  in  a  pan,  and  marinade  them 
for  twenty  minutes  in  oil  and  lemon  juice.  This  done,  garnish 
them  with  mayonnaise,  or  other  puree  macedoine,  or  a  vegetable 
salad,  etc.  Place  on  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish  with  a  garnish  of 
parsley. 

Smoked  Hamburg  Beef. 

Cut  it  into  very  thin  slices;  divide  these  up  and  roll  into  the 
shape  of  cones.    The  slices  may  also  be  served  flat 
Dish  up  at  the  last  moment. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  327 

Canapes  and  Toast. 

In  the  matter  of  hors-d'oeuvres,  the  two  above  names  have 
the  same  meaning.  The  preparation  consists  of  small  slices 
of  the  crumb  of  bread,  about  one-quarter  inch  thick,  slightly 
toasted  and  with  a  garnish  on  one  of  their  sides,  the  garnish 
being  a  matter  of  taste. 

But  the  best  garnish,  for  canapes  or  toast,  is  fresh  butter 
combined  with  a  fine  mince  of  white  roast  chicken-meat,  the 
meat  of  shell-fish  or  fish,  or  cheese,  etc. 

Whatever  be  the  garnish  it  is  always  best  to  put  plenty  of 
butter  on  the  pieces  of  toast  while  they  are  still  hot,  with  the 
view  of  keeping  them  soft. 

When  the  garnish  consists  of  a  puree,  i.  e.,  a  compound  but- 
ter, I  advise  the  use  of  a  piping-bag  fitted  with  a  grooved  pipe, 
for  laying  the  preparation  upon  the  toast. 

The  shapes  given  to  the  toast  may  be  as  fancy  dictates.  They 
should  never  exceed  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter. 

Caviare  Toast. 

Make  the  pieces  of  toast  round;  cover  with  caviare  butter, 
garnish  the  edges  with  a  thread  of  softened  butter  laid  on  by 
means  of  a  piping-bag  fitted  with  a  grooved  pipe.  Put  fresh 
caviare  in  the  center. 

Shrimp  Toast. 

Make  the  pieces  of  toast  round  or  square,  cover  with  shrimp 
butter,  and  garnish  by  means  of  a  border  composed  of  shelled 
shrimps'  tails  with  a  caper  or  gherkin  in  the  center. 
Christiana  Toast. 

Prepare  and  warm  some  slices  of  brown  bread,  equal  in 
thickness  to  the  toast.  Spread  horse-radish  butter  over  them 
and  cover  with  alternate  strips  of  smoked  salmon,  caviare,  and 
filleted  herrings,  marinaded.  Now  stamp  the  garnished  slices 
with  a  sharp  fancy-cutter,  according  to  fancy. 
Tongue  Toast. 

Prepare  some  slices  of  crumb  of  bread,  of  equal  thickness, 
and  toast  them.  Now  garnish  with  a  coating,  half  as  thick  as 
the  slices  themselves,  of  seasoned  butter.  Cover  the  butter 
with  thin  slices  of  very  red,  salted  tongue,  and  let  the  butter 
harden. 

Stamp  out  the  pieces  of  toast  with  a  star-shaped  cutter,  which 
should  be  dipped  occasionally  in  boiling  water  in  order  to  facil- 
itate the  operation.  Finally,  make  a  rosette  of  butter  in  the 
middle  of  each  piece. 


328  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Elena  Toast. 

Prepare  round  pieces  of  toast,  cover  with  mustard  butter, 
and  border  the  edges  with  a  line  of  finely-chopped  tongue. 
Garnish  the  middle  of  each  with  chopped  white  chicken-meat, 
and  in  the  center  drop  a  pinch  of  chopped  truffle  and  parsley. 

Various  Jannette. 

These  are  very  small  eclairs  of  pate  a  choux  without  sugar. 
When  quite  cold,  garnish  them  inside  with  a  puree,  either  of 
tongue,  fowl,  game,  or  foie-gras,  etc.,  then  coat  them  thinly 
with  a  chaud-froid  sauce  in  keeping  with  the  puree  forming 
the  inside  garnish. 

When  the  sauce  has  cooled,  glaze  it  by  means  of  a  brush, 
with  a  little  cold  melted  jelly,  to  make  it  glossy. 

Jannette  are  also  used  as  a  garnish  for  certain  cold  prep- 
arations, aspics,  etc.  They  must  be  eaten  the  day  they  are 
made. 

Blinis  of  Caviare. 

Caviare  is  the  richest  and  most  delicate  of  hors-d'oeuvre.  It 
is  served  very  simply,  either  in  a  silver  timbale  or  on  its 
original  receptacle,  surrounded  with  ice,  and  accompanied  by 
a  dish  of  Blinis,  the  preparation  of  which  is  as  follows:  — 

Make  a  thin  paste  with  one  ounce  of  yeast  and  one  pound 
of  sifted  flour  diluted  with  one  pint  of  lukewarm  milk.  Leave 
to  ferment  for  two  hours  in  a  lukewarm  atmosphere,  and 
then  add  one-half  pound  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pint  of  tepid  milk;  mix  the  whole  with- 
out letting  it  acquire  any  body,  and  finally  add  the  whites  of 
four  eggs,  whisked.  Allow  to  ferment  for  half  an  hour,  and, 
when  about  to  serve,  cook  the  Blinis  quickly,  after  the  manner 
of  pancakes,  in  special  little  omelette-pans.  Dish  up  very  hot 
on  a  napkin. 

If  unable  to  procure  fresh  caviare,  the  pressed  and  salted 
kind  may  be  used  for  hors-d'oeuvres.  Some  cooks  serve  finely- 
chopped  shallot  with  fresh  caviare;  a  worse  practice  could  not 
be  imagined.  Fresh  caviare  does  not  need  any  condiment. 

Celery  "  Bonne-Femme." 

Take  equal  quantities  of  very  tender  celery  sticks  and  peeled, 
quartered  and  cored  russet  apples.  Finely  mince  the  celery 
and  apples,  season  with  a  mustard-and-cream  sauce,  and  place 
on  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish. 

Celery  a  la  Grecque. 
Selected  a  few  hearts  of  celery  of  equal  size;  trim,  wash, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  329 

and  parboil  them  in  acidulated  v/ater,  as  directed  under  "ar- 
tichoke bottoms."  Prepare  the  cooking-liquor  from  the  same 
ingredients,  using  the  same  quantities  thereof,  and  cook  sim- 
ilarly. 

Serve  very  cold  on  a  crystal  hors-d'oeuvres  dish,  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  cooking-liquor. 

Celeriac. 

Quarter,  peel,  and  cut  the  vegetable  julienne  fashion.  Pre- 
pare the  seasoning  with  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar; 
add  the  julienne  of  celeriac  and  mix  thoroughly.  When  the 
roots  are  quite  soft,  a  seasoning  consisting  of  mustard-and- 
cream  sauce  is  excellent. 

Cherries  a  I'Allemande. 

Take  two  pounds  of  Morella  cherries,  put  them  in  a  bottle, 
as  in  the  case  of  cherry  brandy,  and  add  thereto  two  cloves,  a 
fragment  of  cinnamon,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  small  sprig 
of  tarragon.  Pour  over  the  cherries  one  quart  of  vinegar, 
boiled  with  one-half  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  cooled.  Cork 
the  bottle,  and  leave  the  fruit  to  macerate  for  a  fortnight. 

Brains  Nievise. 

Cook  well-cleansed  sheep's  or  lamb's  brains  in  court-bouil- 
lon, and  cool.  Divide  them  up  into  thin  and  regular  slices, 
and  place  them  on  a  fine  sieve,  combine  the  resulting  puree 
with  a  mustard-and-cream  sauce,  and  add  thereto  a  fine 
julienne  of  the  white  part  only  on  celery  well  dried. 

Cover  the  slices  of  brain  with  the  sauce. 

Cucumber  a  la  Nevegrode. 

Cut  the  cucumber  to  the  shape  of  small  cassolettes  or  bar- 
quettes,  blanch  and  marinade  them. 

Garnish  with  a  preparation  composed  of  a  puree  of  salmon 
mixed  with  fillets  of  herring  and  chopped,  hard-boiled  eggs  in 
equal  quantities. 

Sprinkle  a  little  grated  horse-radish  over  the  garnish. 

Stuffed  Cucumbers. 

Prepare  as  above,  in  the  shape  of  small  barquettes  or  cas- 
solettes. Cook  them,  at  the  same  time  keeping  them  firm ; 
marinade  them  for  twenty  minutes,  when  quite  cold,  in  oil  and 
vinegar,  and  garnish  by  means  of  a  piping-bag,  either  with  a 
thick  puree,  some  mincemeat  thickened  with  mayonnaise  or  a 
small  vegetable  macedoine,  etc. 


330  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cucumber  Salad. 

Carefully  peel  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  two,  length- 
wise, remove  seeds,  and  mince  finely.  Place  them  in  a  bowl, 
sprinkle  with  table-salt,  and  leave  them  to  exude  their  moisture 
for  twenty-five  minutes.  This  done,  drain  them,  press  them  in 
a  towel,  season  with  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar,  and  add  some 
chopped  chervil. 

Molded  Creams. 

Prepare  a  hors-d'ceuvre  cream  in  accordance  with  previous 
recipes.  Put  this  cream  into  very  small,  slightly  oiled,  and 
ornamented  molds,  and  leave  to  set  in  the  cool  or  on  ice. 
Empty  the  molds  at  the  moment  of  dishing  up,  either  directly 
upon  a  dish,  on  tartlets  garnished  with  a  puree  in  keeping  with 
the  cream,  or  on  toast.  With  these  molded  creams,  endless 
varieties  of  little  hors-d'ceuvres  may  be  prepared,  while  in  their 
preparation  the  molds  used  in  pastry  for  "  petits  fours "  may 
serve  a  useful  purpose.  One  sheet  of  melted  gelatine  is  an  im- 
provement. 

Duchesses. 

This  hors-d'ceuvre  is  almost  equivalent  to  the  Jannette  ex- 
cept that  the  shape  of  the  Duchesses  is  that  of  little  choux, 
about  the  size  of  a  pigeon's  egg,  and  that,  as  a  rule,  they  are 
merely  glazed  with  some  melted  jelly,  and  not  covered  with 
a  chaud-froid  sauce.  Sprinkle  them  with  chopped  pistachios, 
and  serve  very  cold  on  ornamented  fish-papers. 

Nantua  Duchesses. 

Stuff  the  little  choux,  referred  to  above,  with  crayfish  puree 
or  sardines  and  sprinkle  them,  again  and  again,  with  cold, 
melted  jelly  by  means  of  a  small  brioche,  in  order  to  cover 
them  with  a  transparent  film. 

Duchesses  Reine. 

Stuff  the  little  choux  with  a  puree  of  fowl  with  cream. 
Glaze  with  jelly,  as  above,  and  sprinkle  with  very  black,  finely- 
chopped  truffles. 

Duchesses  Sultane. 

Stuff  the  little  choux  with  a  puree  of  fowl,  completed  with 
pistachio  butter.  Glaze  with  jelly,  and  sprinkle  a  little  chopped 
pistachio  upon  each  little  choux. 

Caviare  Duchesses. 

Stuff  with  fresh  caviare  or  caviare  cream.  Serve  with  jelly 
iced  on  double  glass  dishes. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  331 

Smoked  Salmon  Duchesses. 

Stuff  the  little  choux  with  a  puree  of  smoked  salmon  and 
butter. 

Norwegian  Duchesses. 

Stuff  the  choux  with  a  puree  of  Kilkis  and  butter  and  serve 
with  jelly. 

Fennel   a   la   Greque. 
Prepare  as  for  artichokes  and  celery  a  la  Greque. 

Foie-Gras. 

If  in  the  form  of  a  sausage,  cut  it  into  thin  slices.  If  potted, 
shape  it  into  little  shells,  after  the  manner  in  which  butter  is 
sometimes  served,  only  a  little  smaller.  In  all  cases  serve 
it  iced,  and  as  soon  as  ready. 

Salad  of  Filleted  Salted  Herrings. 

Remove  the  fillets  whole;  take  off  the  skins;  set  to  soak  and 
then  trim.  Dish,  and  cover  them  with  the  following  sauce:  — 
Add  the  puree  of  eight  soft  roes,  moistened  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  to  four  tablespoonfuls  of  mayonnaise. 
Season  with  onion,  parsley,  chervil,  chives,  and  tarragon,  all 
finely  chopped;  flavor  with  cayenne. 

Fresh  Herrings  Marinaded  in  White  Wine. 

For  twelve  herrings,  put  one  pint  of  white  wine  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  a  gill  of  vinegar,  an  onion  cut  into  thin  slices,  half 
a  carrot  cut  into  grooved  roundels,  a  faggot,  the  necessary  salt, 
and  a  few  peppercorns.  Set  to  boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes. 

Place  the  cleaned  herrings  in  a  saucepan,  pour  the  boiling 
marinade  upon  them,  and  poach  for  fifteen  minutes. 

Serve  very  cold  with  the  marinade,  the  roundels  of  carrot, 
and  thin  strips  of  onion. 

Lucas  Herrings. 

Raise  the  fillets  from  fine  salted  herrings,  soak  in  cold  water, 
and  then  in  milk  for  an  hour. 

Prepare  a  sauce  as  follows:  Beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
in  a  bowl  with  salt  and  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  mus- 
tard; add  five  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  two  of  vinegar,  pro- 
ceeding as  in  the  case  of  mayonnaise,  and  complete  with  shal- 
lots and  one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  chervil  and  gherkins. 
Season  with  cayenne,  immerse  the  drained  and  dried  fillets  of 
herrings  in  this  sauce,  and  send  to  the  table  on  a  hors-d'oeuvre 
dish. 


332  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Herrings  a  la  Simone. 

Take  some  fine  salted  herrings'  fillets,  clean  and  cut  them  into 
dice.  Place  these  in  a  bowl,  and  add  thereto,  in  equal  quanti- 
ties, some  cold  boiled  potatoes  and  russet  apples  cut  into  dice, 
parsley,  chervil,  and  chopped  fennel  and  tarragon.  Season  with 
oil  and  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  make  the  preparation  into 
•shapes  resembling  herrings,  and  place  the  heads  and  tails, 
which  should  have  been  put  aside  for  the  purpose,  at  each  ex- 
tremity of  every  imitation  herring. 

Herrings  a  la  Russe. 

Cut  some  fine,  cleaned  fillets  of  salted  herrings  into  thin 
slices.  Dish  up,  and  alternate  the  rows  of  sliced  fillets  with 
rows  of  sliced,  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Season  with  oil  and  vine- 
gar, and  finish  up  with  chopped  chervil,  fennel,  tarragon,  and 
shallots. 

Herrings  Paysanne. 

These  hors-d'oeuvres  are  at  their  best  in  the  months  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  when  the  first  shoals  of  herrings  begin  to 
appear.  They  can  only  be  kept  a  few  days,  but  they  form  an 
excellent  dish,  and  their  flavor  is  exquisite.  Before  serving 
them,  it  is  only  needful  to  skin  them,  whereupon  they  may  be 
dished  up  with  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Send  a  bowl  of 
French  beans  to  the  table  with  them,  the  vegetables  having 
been  freshly  cooked,  kept  somewhat  firm,  buttered,  and  not 
cooled.  Some  cooks  serve  the  beans  cold,  in  the  form  of  a 
salad,  but  as  a  rule  they  are  preferred  hot  with  butter,  while 
the  herrings  should  be  very  cold. 

Oysters. 

The  best  oysters  to  be  had  are  those  of  Whitstable,  and  Col- 
chester. 

Oysters  are  the  dish  par  excellence:  and  they  are  so  easily 
digested  that  the  most  delicate  invalid  can  partake  of  them 
freely.  With  the  exception  of  caviare,  they  are  the  only  hors- 
d'oeuvres  which  should  ever  appear  on  the  menu  of  a  well- 
ordered  dinner. 

Oysters  ought  to  be  served  cold;  hence  the  prevailing  custom 
of  dishing  them  on  ice.  In  England  they  are  served  plain  on 
the  flat  half  of  the  shell.  Send  some  slices  of  brown  bread 
and  butter  and  lemon  to  the  table  with  the  oysters. 

Melon    with    Port,    Marsala,    or    Sherry,    Etc. 
Select  a  cantaloupe  melon  and  let  it  be  just  ripe.    Make  a 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  333 

round  incision  about  the  stalk,  three  inches  in  diameter;  with- 
draw the  plug  thus  cut,  and  through  the  resulting  hole  thor- 
oughly remove  all  the  pips  by  means  of  a  silver  spoon. 

Now  pour  one-half  pint  of  best  port,  marsala,  or  sherry  into 
the  melon,  replace  the  plug,  and  keep  the  melon  for  two  or 
three  hours  in  a  cooler  surrounded  by  broken  ice.  Do  not  cut 
the  melon  into  slices  when  serving  it.  It  should  be  taken  to 
the  table  whole,  and  then  the  piece  containing  the  stalk  is  with- 
drawn and  the  fruit  is  cut  into  shell-like  slices  with  a  silver 
spoon,  and  served  with  a  little  of  the  accompanying  wine  upon 
iced  plates. 

Smoked  Breast  of  Goose. 

Cut  it  into  the  thinnest  possible  slices,  and  garnish  with  very 
green  parsley. 

Plain   Olives. 

Olives  of  all  kinds  are  suitable  for  hors-d'ceuvres,  and  are 
served  plain.  They  are  excellent,  provided  they  be  fleshy, 
firm,  very  green,  and  moderately  salted. 

Stuffed    Olives. 

Select  large  Spanish  olives  and  stone  them,  either  by  cut- 
ting them  spirally,  or  by  means  of  a  special  machine.  In  the 
place  of  the  stone,  put  one  of  the  butters  or  creams  for  hors- 
d'ceuvres.  Before  serving  these  olives,  let  them  rest  awhile 
in  a  moderately  warm  atmosphere.  Stuffed  olives  are  generally 
kept  in  the  cool,  immersed  in  oil  with  which  they  become  thor- 
oughly saturated,  therefore  it  follows  that  the  moment  they 
come  into  contact  with  a  slightly  higher  temperature  they  will 
exude  that  oil  and  reach  the  table  swimming  in  oil,  and  not 
at  all  appetising.  Hence  the  warning  given  above. 

Hard-Boiled  Eggs  as  a  Basis  for  Hors-d'CEuvres. 

EGG  DISKS. —  Cut  the  eggs  laterally  into  roundels  a  third  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  discarding  the  two  end  pieces  of  each 
egg,  so  that  the  shapes  may  be  almost  uniform,  and  the  yolks 
appear  about  the  same  size  throughout.  In  the  center  of  each 
roundel  make  a  little  rosette  of  butter,  by  means  of  a  small, 
grooved  pipe,  use  different  butters,  such  as  the  shrimp,  mont- 
pellier,  cavaire,  and  other  kinds  in  order  to  vary  the  colors. 

HALVED,  STUFFED  EGGS. —  Take  some  very  small,  hard-boiled 
eggs,  cut  them  into  two,  lengthwise ;  remove  the  yolks,  and  trim 
the  oval  hollow  of  each  of  the  remaining  whites  to  the  shape 
of  an  oblong,  the  edges  of  which  may  then  be  indented. 


334  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Garnish,  with  a  puree  of  either  tunny,  salmon,  milt,  or  a  hash 
or  salpicon  of  lobster,  shrimp,  etc.,  thickened  by  means  of  a 
mayonnaise  with  jelly,  or  a  fine  macedoine  of  vegetables  with 
mayonnaise,  or  a  puree  composed  of  the  withdrawn  yolks  com- 
bined with  a  little  butter,  some  cold  Bechamel  sauce,  and 
herbs. 

QUARTERED,  STUFFED  EGGS. —  Proceed  as  above  and  stuff 
the  halved  white  with  a  buttered  puree,  or  a  puree  mixed  with 
jelly,  leave  the  stuffing  to  set,  and  then  cut  the  halves  in  two. 

SALAD  OF  EGGS. —  With  alternate  rows  of  sliced  eggs  and 
either  tomatoes,  potatoes,  cucumbers,  or  beetroot,  and  a  salad- 
seasoning  composed  of  oil  and  vinegar  or  cream,  a  dozen  dif- 
ferent salads  may  be  prepared,  each  of  which  constitutes  an 
excellent  hors-d'oeuvre. 

Lark  Pate. 

For  this  use  the  ready-made  pate,  which  is  obtained  either 
in  pots  or  crusts.  Thoroughly  set  it  by  means  of  ice;  turn  it 
out  of  its  receptacle,  cut  it  into  very  small  and  thin  slices, 
and  arrange  on  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish  with  a  little  broken  jelly 
in  the  middle. 

Red  Mullet  a  la  Greque. 

Select  small  fish  if  possible.  Place  them  in  an  oiled  pan,  and 
add  peeled  squeezed  tomatoes,  parsley-root,  fennel,  thyme,  bay, 
a  little  garlic,  peppercorns,  coriander,  and  saffron,  the  latter 
being  the  dominating  ingredient. 

Cover  with  white  wine;  salt  moderately,  set  to  boil,  and  then 
leave  to  poach  on  the  side  of  the  fire  for  twelve  or  eighteen 
minutes,  according  to  the  size  of  the  mullet. 

Leave  the  fish  to  cool  in  their  cooking-liquor,  and  serve  with 
a  little  of  the  latter  and  a  few  slices  of  peeled  lemon. 

Salami. 

Cut  these  into  very  thin  slices,  and  place  them,  one  on  top 
of  the  other,  on  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish,  in  the  form  of  a  crown, 
with  a  sprig  of  curled-leaf  parsley  in  the  middle.  They  may 
also  be  laid  flat  upon  a  litter  of  parsley. 

Aries,   Bologne   or   Large   Lyons   Sausages. 

Cut  these  up  and  arrange  like  the  Salami. 

Foie-Gras  Sausages. 

Cut  into  thin  roundels  and  dish  up  on  serviette  with  chopped 
aspic  jelly  as  a  center  garnish. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  33$ 

Smoked  Salmon. 

Cut  into  thin  slices ;  roll  these  into  cones,  and  arrange  in  the 
form  of  a  crown  with  curled-leaf  parsley  in  the  middle. 

Sprats. 

These  are  usually  smoked  sardines,  taking  care  to  select  the 
very  fleshy  ones. 

To  prepare  them,  suppress  the  heads  and  remove  or  leave 
on  the  skins,  according  to  taste.  Put  them  on  a  dish  with  some 
finely-chopped  shallots,  chopped  parsley,  and  oil  and  vinegar, 
using  a  very  little  of  each  ingredient.  Leave  to  marinade  for 
five  or  six  hours,  taking  care  to  turn  them  over  from  time  to 
time  so  as  to  be  thoroughly  saturated. 

Tartlets  and   Barquettes. 

SPECIAL  PASTE  FOR  TARTLETS  AND  BARQUETTES. —  Sift  one 
pound  of  flour  on  to  a  mixing-board ;  make  a  hole  in  the  center, 
into  which  put  one-eighth  ounce  of  salt,  one-half  pound  of 
cold,  melted  butter,  one  egg,  the  yolks  of  two,  and  a  few  drops 
of  water.  Mix  the  whole  into  a  paste,  handling  it  as  little  as 
possible;  roll  it  into  a  ball,  and  put  aside  in  the  cool  for  two 
hours. 

THE  PREPARATION  OF  TARTLET  AND  BARQUETTE-CRUSTS. — 
Roll  out  the  paste  to  the  thickness  of  one-eighth  inch,  and  stamp 
it  with  an  indented  fancy-cutter  into  pieces  of  the  same  size 
as  the  tartlet-molds  to  be  used,  which  in  this  case  are  the  same 
as  for  "  petits  fours,"  and,  therefore,  very  small. 

The  fancy-cutter  should  be  round  for  tartlets,  and  oval  for 
barquettes.  Lay  the  paste  in  the  molds,  prick  the  parts  lying 
on  the  bottom,  lest  they  should  blister,  garnish  the  insides  with 
pieces  of  kitchen  paper  to  protect  the  paste,  and  fill  them  with 
rice  or  flour.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven;  remove  the  rice  or 
flour,  the  sole  object  of  which  was  to  preserve  the  shape  of 
the  tartlets  or  barquettes;  turn  the  latter  out  of  their  molds, 
and  set  to  cool. 

EXAMPLE. —  Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  tartlet  or  barquette 
with  a  coating  of  pink,  shrimp,  crayfish,  or  lobster  mousse. 
Upon  this  lay  a  very  white  poached  oyster,  or  a  slice  of  hard- 
boiled  egg,  stamped  with  an  indented  fancy-cutter.  In  the  cen- 
ter of  the  yolk  put  a  little  lobster  coral,  and  coat  the  whole 
with  jelly  to  the  level  of  the  tartlet  edges. 

Tunny  in  Oil. 

These  may  be  purchased  ready  prepared  and  may  be  served 


336  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

as  it  stands.    It  is  very  greatly  used  as  a  garnish  for  hors- 
d'oeuvres. 

Tunny  With  Tomatoes. 

Lay  alternate  slices  of  tunny  and  tomato  upon  a  hors-d'oeuvre 
dish,  and  between  each  slice  lay  a  thin  round  of  onion.  Gar- 
nish the  edge  of  the  dish  with  a  border  composed  of  sliced  po- 
tato, and  sprinkle  with  an  ordinary  salad  seasoning. 

Tomatoes  a  L'Americaine. 

Select  firm,  medium-sized  tomatoes,  and  cut  them  into  thin 
slices.  Put  them  into  a  dish  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar,  and  leave  to  marinade  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  arrange  on  a  hors-d'oeuvre  dish,  garnishing  the  border 
with  thin  rings  of  onion. 

Tomatoes  Monegasque. 

Select  and  skin  some  small  tomatoes  the  size  of  walnuts,  and 
cut  a  slice  from  each  in  the  region  of  the  stalk.  Squeeze  out 
all  the  juice  and  seeds.  Prepare  a  mince  of  tunny  with  oil,  and 
add  for  every  two  ounces  of  the  fish,  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
finely-chopped  onion,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  cher- 
vil, tarragon,  and  hard-boiled  egg. 

Thicken  with  a  tablespoonful  of  thick  mayonnaise;  put  it 
into  a  bag  fitted  with  a  smooth,  medium-sized  pipe,  and  garnish 
the  tomatoes  with  the  preparation,  using  enough  of  the  latter 
to  form  a  dome  on  each  tomato. 

Quartered  Tomatoes. 

Use  medium-sized  tomatoes,  somewhat  firm  and  with  smooth 
skins.  Peel  and  empty  them,  and  then  fill  with  either  a  fish 
puree  cleared  with  jelly,  or  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetables 
thickened  by  means  of  a  mayonnaise  with  jelly.  Place  on  ice 
for  half  an  hour,  and  cut  the  tomatoes  into  regular  quarters. 

Marinaded  Trout. 

'Select  some  small  trout,  clean  and  dress  them,  and  poach 
in  a  white  wine  court-bouillon  to  which  vinegar  has  been 
added  in  the  proportion  of  one-third  of  its  volume. 

Leave  the  fish  to  cool  in  the  liquor,  and  dish  up  with  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  latter,  placing  some  thin,  grooved  slices  of 
lemon  upon  the  fish. 

Soyer's  Sauce  Ravigote  or  Mayonnaise  without  Eggs. 
Place  in  a  bowl  or  large  cup  one  mustard  spoonful  of  made 
mustard,   and  one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper;  mix 


(STANDARD  COOKERY.  337 

well  together  with  a  drop  or  two  of  salad  oil.  Now  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  beat  all  together  with  a  spoon. 
When  blended,  add  VERY  GRADUALLY  —  in  a  thin  stream  —  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  beating  the  mixture  vigorously  all 
the  time.  The  result  should  be  a  thick,  creamy  sauce  of  ex- 
cellent flavor  for  use  with  green  or  other  salads.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  whipped  cream,  added  to  and  well  whisked  with 
the  above,  imparts  a  delicious  softness,  but  is  not  a  necessary 
adjunct. 


338  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


BREAD,  ROLLS,  MUFFINS,  BUNS,  AND 
PASTES. 

Bread  Making. 

FERMENTED  BREAD  is'  made  by  mixing  to  a  dough,  flour, 
with  a  definite  quantity  of  water,  milk,  or  water  and  milk, 
salt,  and  a  ferment  such  as  yeast.  Sugar  is  usually  added  to 
hasten  fermentation.  The  dough  is  then  kneaded  that  the  in- 
gredients may  be  thoroughly  incorporated,  covered,  and  allowed 
to  rise  in  a  temperature  of  68°  F.,  until  the  dough  has  doubled 
its  bulk.  This  change  has  been  caused  by  action  of  the  fer- 
ment, which  attacks  some  of  the  starch  in  the  flour,  and 
changes  it  to  sugar,  and  sugar  in  turn  to  alcohol  and  carbon 
dioxide,  thus  lightening  the  whole  mass.  The  dough  is  then 
kneaded  a  second  time  to  break  bubbles  and  distribute  evenly 
the  carbon  dioxide.  It  is  shaped  in  loaves,  put  in  greased 
breadpans  (they  being  half  filled),  covered,  allowed  to  rise 
in  temperature  same  as  for  first  rising,  to  double  its  bulk. 
If  risen  too  long,  it  will  be  full  of  large  holes;  if  not  risen 
long  enough,  it  will  be  heavy  and  soggy. 

How  TO  SHAPE  LOAVES  AND  BISCUITS. —  To  shape  bread 
dough  in  loaves,  divide  dough  in  parts,  each  part  large  enough 
for  a  loaf,  knead  until  smooth,  and  if  possible  avoid  seams  in 
under  part  of  loaf.  If  baked  in  brick  pan,  place  two  loaves 
in  one  pan,  brushed  between  with  a  little  melted  butter.  If 
baked  in  long  shallow  pan,  when  well  kneaded,  roll  with  both 
hands  to  lengthen,  care  being  taken  that  it  is  smooth  and  of 
uniform  thickness.  Where  long  loaves  are  baked  on  sheets, 
shape  and  roll  loosely  in  a  towel  sprinkled  with  corn  meal  for 
last  rising. 

To  shape  bread  dough  in  biscuits,  pull  or  cut  off  as  many 
small  pieces  (having  them  of  uniform  size)  as  there  are  to  be 
biscuits.  Flour  palms  of  hands  slightly;  take  up  each  piece 
and  shape  separately,  lifting  with  thumb  and  first  two  fingers 
of  right  hand,  and  placing  in  palm  of  left  hand,  constantly 
moving  dough  round  and  round,  while  folding  towards  the 
center;  when  smooth,  turn  it  over  and  roll  between  palms  of 
hands.  Place  in  greased  pans  near  together,  brushed  between 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  339 

with  a  little  melted  butter,  which  will  cause  biscuits  to  sep- 
arate easily  after  baking.  For  finger  rolls,  shape  biscuits  and 
roll  with  one  hand  on  part  of  board  where  there  is  no  flour, 
until  of  desired  length,  care  being  taken  to  make  smooth,  of 
uniform  size,  and  round  at  ends. 

Bread  is  often  brushed  over  with  milk  before  baking. 

Where  bread  is  allowed  to  rise  over  night,  a  small  piece  of 
yeast  cake  must  be  used;  one-fourth  yeast  cake  to  one  pint  of 
liquid  is  sufficient,  one-third  yeast  cake  to  one  quart  of  liquid. 
Bread  mixed  and  baked  during  the  day  requires  a  larger 
quantity  of  yeast;  one  yeast  cake,  or  sometimes  even  more,  to 
one  pint  of  liquid.  Bread  dough  mixed  with  a  large  quantity 
of  yeast  should  be  watched  during  rising,  and  cut  down  as 
soon  as  mixture  doubles  its  bulk.  If  proper  care  is  taken,  the 
bread  will  be  found  most  satisfactory,  having  neither  "  yeasty  " 
nor  sour  taste. 

Baking   of   Bread. 

Bread  should  be  baked  in  a  hot  oven.  If  the  oven  be  too 
hot  the  crust  will  brown  quickly,  and  before  the  heat  has 
reached  the  center,  thus  preventing  further  rising;  the  loaf 
should  continue  rising  for  first  fifteen  minutes  of  baking,  when 
it  should  begin  to  brown,  and  continue  browning  for  the  next 
twenty  minutes.  The  last  fifteen  minutes  it  should  finish  bak- 
ing, when  the  heat  may  be  reduced.  When  bread  is  done,  it 
will  not  cling  to  sides  of  pan,  and  may  be  easily  removed. 
Biscuits  require  more  heat  than  loaf  bread,  should  continue  ris- 
ing the  first  five  minutes,  and  begin  to  brown  in  eight  minutes. 
Always  use  a  Soyer  Thermometer  for  testing  temperature  of 
oven. 

After  Baking. 

Remove  loaves  at  once  from  pans,  and  place  on  their  sides 
on  a  wire  bread  or  cake  cooler.  If  a  crisp  crust  is  desired  al- 
low bread  to  cool  without  covering;  if  soft  crust,  cover  with  a 
towel  during  cooling.  When  cool,  put  in  tin  box  or  stone  jar, 
and  cover  closely. 

Never  keep  bread  wrapped  in  a  cloth,  as  the  cloth  will  ab- 
sorb moisture,  and  transmit  an  unpleasant  taste  to  the  bread. 
Bread  tins  or  jars  should  be  washed  and  scalded  twice  a  week 
in  winter,  and  every  other  day  in  summer;  otherwise  bread  is 
apt  to  mould. 

UNFERMENTED  BREAD  is  raised  without  a  ferment,  the  car- 
bon dioxide  being  produced  by  the  use  of  soda  (alkaline  salt, 


340  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and  an  acid).  Soda,  employed  in  combination  with  cream  of 
tartar,  for  raising  mixtures,  in  proportion  of  one-third  soda  to 
two-thirds  cream  of  tartar,  was  formerly  used  to  a  great  ex- 
tent, but  has  been  generally  superseded  by  baking  powder. 

BAKING  POWDER  is  composed  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar 
in  definite,  correct  proportions,  mixed  with  small  quantity  of 
dry  material  (flour  or  corn-starch)  to  keep  action  from  taking 
place.  If  found  to  contain  alum  or  ammonia,  it  is  impure.  In 
using  baking  powder,  allow  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pow- 
der to  each  cup  of  flour,  when  eggs  are  not  used;  to  egg  mix- 
tures allow  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
When  a  recipe  calls  for  soda  and  cream  of  tartar,  in  substitut- 
ing baking  powder,  use  double  amount  of  cream  of  tartar  given. 

Soda  and  cream  of  tartar,  or  baking-powder  mixtures,  are 
made  light  by  liberation  of  gas  in  mixture;  the  gas  in  soda  is 
set  free  by  the  acid  in  cream  of  tartar;  in  order  to  accomplish 
this,  moisture  and  heat  are  both  required.  As  soon  as  moisture 
is  added  to  baking-powder  mixtures,  the  gas  will  begin  to  es- 
cape; hence  the  necessity  of  baking  as  soon  as  possible.  If 
baking  powder  only  is  used  for  raising,  put  mixture  to  be 
cooked  in  a  hot  oven. 

Fermented  and  unfermented  breads  are  raised  to  be  made 
light  and  porous,  that  they  may  be  easily  acted  upon  by  the 
digestive  ferments.  Some  mixtures  are  made  light  by  heat- 
ing sufficiently  to  enclose  a  large  amount  of  air,  and  when 
baked  in  a  hot  oven,  air  is  forced  to  expand. 

AERATED  BREAD  is  made  light  by  carbon  dioxide  forced  into 
dough  under  pressure.  The  carbon  dioxide  is  generated  from 
sulphuric  acid  and  lime.  Aerated  bread  is  of  close  texture, 
and  has  a  flavor  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  a  product  of  the  bak- 
er's skill,  but  has  found  little  favor  except  in  few  localities. 

Water  Bread. 

Two  cups  boiling  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one 
tablespoonful  of  lard,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one- 
quarter  cup  lukewarm  water,  six  cups  sifted  flour. 

Put  butter,  lard,  sugar,  and  salt  in  bread  raiser,  or  large 
bowl  without  a  lip;  pour  on  boiling  water;  when  lukewarm, 
add  dissolved  yeast  cake  and  five  cups  of  flour;  then  stir  until 
thoroughly  mixed,  using  a  wooden  spoon.  Add  remaining 
flour,  mix,  and  turn  on  a  floured  board,  leaving  a  clean  bowl; 
knead  until  mixture  is  smooth,  elastic  to  touch,  and  bubbles 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  341 

may  be  seen  under  the  surface.  Some  practice  is  required  to 
knead  quickly,  but  the  motion  once  acquired  will  never  be  for- 
gotten. Return  to  bowl,  cover  with  a  clean  cloth  kept  for  the 
purpose,  and  board  or  tin  cover;  let  rise  over  night  in  tempera- 
ture of  65°  F.  In  morning  cut  down;  this  is  accomplished 
by  cutting  through  and  turning  over  dough  several  times  with 
a  case  knife,  and  checks  fermentation  for  a  short  time;  dough 
may  be  raised  again,  and  re-cut  down  if  it  is  not  convenient  to 
shape  into  loaves  or  biscuits  after  first  cutting.  When  prop- 
erly cared  for,  bread  need  never  sour.  Toss  on  board  slightly 
floured,  knead,  shape  into  loaves  or  biscuits,  place  in  greased 
pans,  having  pans  nearly  half  full.  Cover,  let  rise  again  to 
double  its  bulk,  and  bake  in  hot  oven.  Cottolene,  coto  suet,  or 
beef  drippings  may  be  used  for  shortening,  one-third  less  be- 
ing required.  Bread  shortened  with  butter  has  a  good  flavor, 
but  is  not  as  white  as  when  lard  is  used. 

Milk   and   Water   Bread. 

One  cup  scalded  milk,  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lard,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  and  a  half 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  One  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter 
cup  lukewarm  water,  six  cups  sifted  flour,  or  one  cup  white 
flour  and  enough  entire  wheat  flour  to  knead. 

Prepare  and  bake  as  water  bread.  When  entire  wheat  flour 
is  used  add  three  tablespoonfuls  molasses.  Bread  may  be 
mixed,  raised,  and  baked  in  five  hours,  by  using  one  yeast  cake. 
Breac^'  made  in  this  way  has  proved  most  satisfactory.  It  is 
usually  mixed  in  the  morning,  and  the  cook  is  able  to  watch 
the  dough  while  rising  and  keep  it  at  uniform  temperature.  It 
is  often  desirable  to  place  bowl  containing  dough  in  pan  of 
water,  keeping  water  at  uniform  temperature  of  from  95°  to 
100°  F. 

Graham  Bread. 

Two  and  a  half  cups  of  hot  liquid  (water,  or  milk  and 
water),  half  cup  molasses,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
one-quarter  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm 
water,  three  cups  flour,  three  cups  Graham  flour. 

Prepare  and  bake  as  in  first  recipe.  The  bran  remaining 
in  sieve  after  sifting  Graham  flour  should  be  discarded. 

Rye   Bread. 

Two  cups  lukewarm  water,  one  yeast  cake,  one-half  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-half  cup  molasses,  one  cup  rye  flour,  one 
cup  granulated  cornmeal,  three  cups  of  flour. 


342  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Dissolve  yeast  cake  in  water,  add  remaining  ingredients, 
and  mix  thoroughly.  Let  rise,  shape,  let  rise  again  and  bake 
as  in  first  recipe. 

Rolled  Oats  Bread. 

Two  cups  boiling  water,  one-half  cup  molasses,  one-half 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one-half 
yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-half  cup  lukewarm  water,  one  cup 
rolled  oats,  four  and  a  half  cups  of  flour. 

Add  boiling  water  to  oats  and  let  stand  one  hour;  add  mo- 
lasses, salt,  butter,  dissolved  yeast  cake,  and  flour;  let  rise, 
beat  thoroughly,  turn  into  buttered  bread-pans,  let  rise  again, 
and  bake.  By  using  one-half  cup  less  flour,  the  dough  is  bet- 
ter suited  for  biscuits,  but,  being  soft,  is  difficult  to  handle. 
To  make  shaping  of  biscuits  easy,  take  up  mixture  by  spoon- 
fuls, drop  into  plate  of  flour,  and  have  palms  of  hands  well 
covered  with  flour  before  attempting  to  shape. 

Rye  Biscuits. 

One  cup  of  boiling  water,  one  cup  rye  flakes,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter,  one-third  cup  molasses,  one  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one  cup  of  luke- 
warm water,  flour. 

Make  same  as  rolled  oats  bread. 

Rye   Bread. 

One  cup  scalded  milk,  one  cup  boiling  water,  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  lard,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one-third  cup  of  brown 
sugar,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast 
cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm  water,  three  cups 
of  flour,  rye  meal. 

To  milk  and  water  add  lard,  butter,  sugar,  and  salt;  when 
lukewarm,  add  dissolved  yeast  cake  and  flour,  beat  thoroughly, 
cover,  and  let  rise  until  light.  Add  rye  meal  until  dough  is 
stiff  enough  to  knead;  knead  thoroughly,  let  rise,  shape  in 
loaves,  let  rise  again,  and  bake. 

Boston  Brown   Bread. 

One  cup  of  rye  meal,  one  cup  granulated  cornmeal,  three- 
quarter  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  cup  of 
Graham  flour,  three-quarters  cup  of  molasses,  two  cups  sour 
milk,  or  one  and  three-quarter  cups  sweet  milk  or  water. 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients,  add  molasses  and  milk,  stir 
until  well  mixed,  turn  into  a  well-buttered  mold,  and  steam 
three  and  one-half  hours.  The  cover  should  be  buttered  before 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  343 

being  placed  on  mold,  and  then  tied  down  with  string;  other- 
wise the  bread,  in  rising,  might  force  off  cover.  Mold  should 
never  be  filled  more  than  two-thirds  full.  A  melon-mold  or  one 
pound  baking-powder  boxes  make  the  most  attractive-shaped 
loaves,  but  a  five-pound  lard  pail  answers  the  purpose.  For 
steaming,  place  mold  on  a  trivet  in  kettle  containing  boiling 
water,  allowing  water  to  come  half-way  up  around  mold,  cover 
closely,  and  steam,  adding,  as  needed,  more  boiling  water. 

Bread  Dumplings. 

Soak  three  thick  slices  of  white  bread  in  about  a  pint  of 
broth,  squeeze  fairly  dry,  and  beat  up  with  a  fork.  Melt  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  over  the  fire,  add  the  bread,  mix  well, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  When  cool  stir  in 
two  well-beaten  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  lit- 
tle chopped  parsley.  Mix  well,  and  then  mold  into  small  balls. 
Roll  these  lightly  in  flour,  boil  them  lightly  in  broth  for  two 
minutes,  and  serve  at  once. 

Sweet  French  Rolls. 

One  cup  of  milk,  one  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  of 
a  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  sugar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  egg,  yolk  of  one  egg,  one-eighth 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  one-quarter  cup  of  melted  butter. 

Scald  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add  dissolved  yeast  cake  and 
one  and  one-half  cup  of  flour;  beat  well,  cover,  and  let  rise 
until  light.  Add  sugar,  salt,  eggs  well  beaten,  mace,  and  but- 
ter,  and  enough  more  flour  to  knead;  knead,  let  rise  again, 
shape,  and  bake  same  as  salad  rolls,  or  roll  in  a  long  strip  to 
one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  spread  with  butter,  roll  up  like 
jelly  roll,  and  cut  in  one  inch  pieces.  Place  pieces  in  pan  close 
together,  flat  side  down.  A  few  gratings  from  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  or  one-half  teaspoonful  lemon  extract  may  be  substi- 
tuted in  place  of  mace. 

Luncheon  Rolls. 

One-half  cup  of  scalded  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  yeast  cake  dis- 
solved in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lukewarm  water,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  egg,  few  gratings  from  rind 
of  lemon,  flour. 

Add  sugar  and  salt  to  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add  dissolved 
yeast  cake  and  three- fourths  cup  of  flour.  Cover  and  let  rise; 
then  add  butter,  egg  well  beaten,  grated  rind  of  lemon,  and 
enough  flour  to  knead.  Let  rise  again,  roll  to  one-half  inch 


344  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

thickness,    shape   with    small   biscuit-cutter,    place    in   buttered 
pan  close  together,  let  rise  again,  and  bake. 

French  Rusks. 

Two  cups  of  scalded  milk,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter, 
one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  lukewarm 
water,  flour,  one  egg,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs, 
three-quarters  of  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Add  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  to  scalded  milk;  when  lukewarm 
add  dissolved  yeast  cake  and  three  cups  of  flour.  Cover  and 
let  rise;  add  egg  and  egg  yolks  well  beaten,  and  enough  flour 
to  knead.  Let  rise,  again,  and  shape  as  Parker  House  rolls. 
Before  baking,  make  three  parallel  creases  on  top  of  each  roll. 
When  nearly  done,  brush  over  with  whites  of  eggs  beaten 
slightly,  diluted  with  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water  and 
vanilla.  Sprinkle  with  sugar. 

Coffee  Cakes. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-quarter  cup  of  yolks  of  eggs, 
one-half  cup  of  whole  eggs,  two-thirds  cup  of  butter,  one-half 
cup  of  sugar,  two  yeast  cakes,  one-half  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
extract  of  lemon  or  two  pounded  cardamom  seeds,  four  and 
two-thirds  cups  of  flour. 

Cool  milk,  when  lukewarm,  add  yeast  cakes,  and  when  they 
are  dissolved  add  remaining  ingredients,  and  beat  thoroughly 
with  hand  ten  minutes;  let  rise  six  hours.  Keep  in  ice-box 
over  night;  in  morning  turn  on  floured  board,  roll  in  long 
rectangular  piece  one-fourth  inch  thick;  spread  with  softened 
butter,  fold  from  sides  toward  center  to  make  three  layers. 
Cut  off  pieces  three-fourths  inch  wide;  cover  and  let  rise. 
Take  each  piece  separately  in  hands  and  twist  from  ends  in  op- 
posite directions,  coil  and  bring  ends  together  at  top  of  cake. 
Let  rise  in  pans  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven; 
cool  and  brush  over  with  confectioners'  sugar,  moistened  with 
boiling  water  to  spread,  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 

Coffee  Rolls. 

Two  cups  of  milk,  one  and  a  half  yeast  cakes,  butter,  lard, 
sugar,  flour,  one  egg,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  melted  butter,  confectioners'  sugar,  vanilla. 

Scald  milk;  when  lukewarm  add  yeast  cakes;  and  as  soon 
as  dissolved  add  three  and  one-half  cups  of  flour.  Beat  thor- 
oughly, cover,  and  let  rise;  then  add  butter,  lard,  sugar,  egg 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  343 

unbeaten,  cinnamon,  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  knead.  Knead 
until  wel!  mixed,  cover,  and  let  rise.  Turn  mixture  on  a 
floured  cloth.  Roll  into  a  long,  rectangular  piece  one-fourth 
inch  thick.  .Brush  over  with  melted  butter,  fold  from  ends  to- 
ward center  to  make  three  layers  and  cut  off  pieces  three- 
fourths  inch  wide.  Cover  and  let  rise.  Take  each  piece  sep- 
arately in  hands  and  twist  from  ends  in  opposite  directions, 
then  shape  in  a  coil.  Place  in  buttered  pans,  cover,  again  let 
rise,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty  minutes.  Cool 
slightly,  and  brush  over  with  confectioners'  sugar  moistened 
with  boiling  water  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 

Dutch  Apple  Cake. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-third  cup  of  butter,  one-third 
cup  of  sugar,  one-third  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  yeast  cake, 
two  eggs,  flour,  melted  butter,  five  sour  apples,  one-quarter  cup 
of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  currants. 

Mix  first  four  ingredients.  When  lukewarm,  add  yeast  cake, 
eggs  unbeaten,  and  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Cover,  let  rise, 
beat  thoroughly  and  again  let  rise.  Spread  in  a  buttered  drip- 
ping-pan as  thinly  as  possible,  and  brush  over  with  melted  but- 
ter. Pare,  cut  in  eights,  and  remove  cores  from  apples. 

Press  sharp  edges  of  apples  into  the  dough  in  parallel  rows 
lengthwise  of  pan.  Sprinkle,  with  sugar  mixed  with  cinna- 
mon, and  with  currants.  Cover,  let  rise,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  thirty  minutes.  Cut  in  squares  and  serve  hot  or 
cold  with  whipped  cream  sweetened  and  flavored. 

Buns. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-third  cup  of  butter,  one-third 
cup  of  sugar,  one  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  cup  luke- 
warm water,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  cup  of 
raisins  stoned  and  cut  in  quarters,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
extract,  flour. 

Add  one-half  sugar  and  salt  to  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add 
dissolved  yeast  cake  and  one  and  one-half  cups  of  flour;  cover, 
and  let  rise  until  light;  add  butter,  remaining  sugar,  raisins, 
lemon,  and  flour  to  make  a  dough;  let  rise,  shape  like  biscuits, 
let  rise  again,  and  bake.  If  wanted  glazed,  brush  over  with 
beaten  egg  before  baking. 

Hot   Cross   Buns. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half 


346  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm  water,  three- 
quarters  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  three  cups  of  flour,  one  egg, 
one-quarter  cup  of  raisins  stoned  and  quartered,  or  one-quarter 
cup  currants. 

Add  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  to  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add  dis- 
solved yeast  cake,  cinnamon,  flour,  and  egg  well  beaten;  when 
thoroughly  mixed,  add  raisins,  cover,  and  let  rise  over  night. 
In  the  morning,  shape  into  buns,  place  in  pan  one  inch  apart, 
let  rise,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake  twenty  minutes; 
cool,  and  with  ornamental  frosting  make  a  cross  on  top  of 
each  bun. 

Raised  Muffins. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one  cup  boiling  water,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar,  three-quarters 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake,  one  egg,  four  cups 
flour. 

Add  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  to  milk  and  water;  when  luke- 
warm, add  yeast  cake,  and  when  dissolved,  egg  well  beaten, 
and  flour;  beat  thoroughly,  cover,  and  let  rise  over  night.  In 
morning,  fill  buttered  muffin  rings  two-thirds  full;  let  rise  un- 
til rings  are  full,  and  bake  thirty  minutes  in  hot  oven. 

Grilled  Muffins. 

Put  buttered  muffin  rings  on  a  hot  greased  griddle.  Fill  one- 
half  full  with  raised  muffin  mixture,  and  cook  slowly  until  well 
risen  and  browned  underneath;  turn  muffins  and  rings  and 
brown  the  other  side.  This  is  a  convenient  way  of  cooking 
muffins  when  oven  is  not  in  condition  for  baking. 

Raised  Hominy  Muffins. 

One  cup  of  warm  cooked  hominy,  one-quarter  cup  butter, 
one  cup  scalded  milk,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one-half 
teaspoonful  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake,  one-quarter  cup  luke- 
warm water,  three  and  a  quarter  cups  flour. 

Mix  first  five  ingredients;  when  lukewarm  add  yeast  cake, 
dissolved  in  lukewarm  water  and  flour.  Cover,  and  let  rise 
over  night.  In  the  morning  cut  down,  fill  hot  buttered  gem 
pans  two-thirds  full,  let  rise  one  hour,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Unless  cooked  hominy  is  rather  stiff  more  flour  will  be 
needed. 

Raised   Rice   Muffins. 

Make  same  as  raised  hominy  muffins,  substituting  one  cup 
of  hot  boiled  rice  in  place  of  hominy,  and  adding  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  beaten  until  stiff. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  347 

Raised  Oatmeal  Muffins. 

Three-quarters  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-quarter  cup  of 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake  dis- 
solved in  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm  milk,  one  cup  cold  cooked 
oatmeal,  two  and  a  half  cups  flour. 

Add  sugar  and  salt  to  scalded  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add 
dissolved  yeast  cake.  Work  oatmeal  into  flour  with  tips  of 
fingers,  and  add  to  first  mixture,  beat  thoroughly,  cover,  and 
let  rise  over  night.  In  morning,  fill  buttered  iron  gem  pans 
two-thirds  full,  let  rise  on  back  of  range  that  pan  may  gradually 
heat  and  mixture  rise  to  fill  pan.  Bake  in  moderate  oven 
twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 

Health  Food  Muffins. 

One  cup  warm  wheatmush,  one-quarter  cup  brown  sugar, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one- 
quarter  yeast  cake,  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm  water,  flour. 

Mix  first  four  ingredients,  add  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  luke- 
warm water,  and  flour  to  knead.  Cover,  and  let  rise  over  night. 
In  the  morning  cut  down,  fill  hot  buttered  gem  pans  two-thirds 
full  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  This  mixture,  when  baked 
in  a  loaf,  makes  a  delicious  bread. 

Squash   Biscuits. 

One-half  cup  squash  (steamed  and  sifted)  one-quarter  cup 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  cup  scalded  milk, 
one-quarter  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter  cup  lukewarm 
water,  one-quarter  cup  butter,  two  and  a  half  cups  flour. 

Add  squash,  sugar,  salt  and  butter  to  milk;  when  lukewarm, 
add  dissolved  yeast  cake  and  flour;  cover,   and  let  rise  over 
night.     In  morning,  shape  into  biscuits,  let  rise,  and  bake. 
Imperial   Muffins. 

One  cup  scalded  milk,  one-quarter  cup  sugar,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one-third  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  one-quarter 
cup  lukewarm  water,  one  and  three-quarters  cup  flour,  one  cup 
cornmeal,  one-quarter  cup  butter. 

Add  sugar  and  salt  to  milk;  when  lukewarm  add  dissolved 
yeast  cake,  and  one  and  one-fourth  cups  flour.  Cover,  and  let 
rise  until  light,  then  add  cornmeal,  remaining  flour,  and  butter. 
Let  rise  over  night;  in  the  morning  fill  buttered  muffin  rings 
two-thirds  full;  let  rise  until  rings  are  full  and  bake  thirty 
minutes  in  hot  oven. 

Water  Toast. 

Dip  slices  of  dry  toast  quickly  in  boiling  salted  water,  allow- 


348  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ing  one-half   teaspoonful    of    salt    to    one    cup    boiling   water. 
Spread  slices  with  butter,  and  serve  at  once. 

Milk  Toast. 

One  pint  scalded  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two  and 
a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  bread  flour,  half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
cold  water,  six  slices  dry  toast. 

Add  cold  water  gradually  to  flour  to  make  a  smooth,  thin 
paste.  Add  to  milk,  stirring  constantly  until  thickened,  cover, 
and  cook  twenty  minutes;  then  add  salt  and  butter  in  small 
pieces.  Dip  slices  of  toast  separately  in  sauce;  when  soft,  re- 
move to  serving  dish.  Pour  remaining  sauce  over  all. 

Tomato   Cream  Toast. 

One  and  a  half  cups  stewed  and  strained  tomato,  one-half 
cup  scalded  cream,  one-quarter  teaspoonful  of  soda,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  six  slices  toast. 

Put  butter  in  saucepan ;  when  melted  and  bubbling,  add  flour, 
mixed  with  salt,  and  stir  in  gradually  tomato,  to  which  soda 
has  been  added,  then  add  cream.  Dip  slices  of  toast  in  sauce. 
Serve  as  soon  as  made. 

German  Toast. 

Three  eggs,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  one  cup  milk,  six  slices  stale  bread. 

Beat  eggs  slightly,  add  salt,  sugar  and  milk;  strain  into  a 
shallow  dish.  Soak  bread  in  mixture  until  soft.  Cook  on  a 
hot,  well-greased  griddle;  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown 
other  side.  Serve  for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  or  with  a  sauce 
for  dessert. 

Brewis. 

Break  stale  bits  or  slices  of  brown  and  white  bread  in  small 
pieces,  allowing  one  and  one-half  cups  brown  bread  to  one- 
half  cup  white  bread.  Butter  a  hot  frying-pan,  put  in  bread, 
and  cover  with  equal  parts  of  milk  and  water.  Cook  until 
soft;  add  butter  and  salt  to  taste. 

Bread  for  Garnishing. 

Dry  toast  is  often  used  for  garnishing,  cut  in  various  shapes. 
Always  shape  before  toasting.  Cubes  of  bread,  toast  points, 
and  small  oblong  pieces  are  most  common.  Cubes  of  stale 
bread,  from  which  centers  are  removed,  are  fried  in  deep  fat 
and  called  croustades;  half-inch  cubes,  browned  in  butter,  or 
fried  in  deep  fat,  are  called  croutons. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  349 

Cream  Scones. 

Two  cups  of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one-third  of  a  cup  of  cream. 

Mix  and  sift  together  flour,  baking  powder,  sugar  and  salt. 
Rub  in  butter  with  tips  of  fingers;  add  eggs  well  beaten,  and 
cream.  Toss  on  a  floured  board,  pat,  and  roll  to  three-fourths 
inch  in  thickness..  Cut  in  squares,  brush  with  white  of  egg, 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  minutes. 

Baking-Powder  Biscuit. 

Two  cups  of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  lard,  three-quarters 
of  a  cup  of  milk  and  water  in  equal  parts,  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter. 

Mix  dry  ingredients,  and  sift  twice.  Work  in  butter  and 
lard  with  tips  of  fingers;  add  gradually  the  liquid,  mixing  with 
knife  to  a  soft  dough.  It  is  impossible  to  determine  the  exact 
amount  of  liquid,  owing  to  differences  in  flour.  Toss  on  a 
floured  board,  pat  and  roll  lightly  to  one-half  inch  in  thickness. 
Shape  with  a  biscuit  cutter.  Place  on  buttered  pan,  and  bake 
in  hot  oven  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes.  If  baked  in  too  slow  an 
oven,  the  gas  will  escape  before  it  has  done  its  work.  Many 
obtain  better  results  by  using  bread  flour. 

Baking-Powder  Biscuit.   (Another  Method.) 
Two  cups  of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  milk,  one- 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Mix  and  bake  as  for  previous  recipe. 

Emergency  Biscuit. 

Use  recipe  for  baking-powder  biscuit  (previous  recipe), 
with  the  addition  of  more  milk,  that  mixture  may  be  dropped 
from  spoon  without  spreading.  Drop  by  spoonfuls  on  a  but- 
tered pan,  one-half  inch  apart.  Brush  over  with  milk,  and 
bake  in  hot  oven  eight  minutes. 

Mountain  Muffins. 

One-quarter  cup  of  butter,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar,  one 
egg,  one-quarter  cup  of  milk,  two  cups  of  flour,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder. 

Cream  the  butter;  add  sugar  and  egg  well  beaten;  sift  bak- 
ing powder  with  flour,  and  add  to  the  first  mixture,  alternating 
with  milk.  Bake  in  buttered  tin  gem  pans  twenty-five  minutes. 


350  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Rye  Muffins. 

One  and  a  quarter  cups  of  rye  meal,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one-quarter  cup  of  molasses,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  milk,  one  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  and  bake  as  Mountain  muffins,  adding  molasses  with 
milk. 

Rye   Gems. 

One  and  two-thirds  cups  of  rye  flour,  one  and  a  third  cups 
of  flour,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one-quarter  cup  of  molasses,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  milk,  two  eggs,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients,  add  molasses,  milk,  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  butter.  Bake  in  hot  oven  in  buttered  gem  pans 
twenty-five  minutes. 

Cornmeal    Gems. 

One-Ealf  a  cup  of  cornmeal,  one  cup  of  flour,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three- 
quarters  of  a  cup  of  milk,  one  egg. 

Mix  and  bake  as  Mountain  muffins. 

Hominy  Gems. 

One-quarter  cup  of  hominy,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-half  a  cup  boiling  water,  one  cup  scalded  milk,  one  cup 
cornmeal,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  two  eggs,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Add  hominy  mixed  with  salt  to  boiling  water  and  let  stand 
until  hominy  absorbs  water.  Add  scalded  milk  to  cornmeal, 
then  add  sugar  and  butter.  Combine  mixtures,  cool  slightly, 
add  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  until  thick,  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten 
until  stiff.  Sift  in  baking  powder  and  beat  thoroughly.  Bake 
in  hot  buttered  gem  pans. 

Berkshire   Muffins. 

One-half  a  cup  of  cornmeal,  one-half  cup  of  flour,  one-half 
a  cup  of  cooked  rice,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two-thirds  cup  of  scalded  milk  (scant), 
one  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder. 

Turn  scalded  milk  on  meal,  let  stand  five  minutes;  add  rice 
and  flour  mixed,  and  stiffen  with  remaining  dry  ingredients. 
Add  yolk  of  egg  well  beaten,  butter,  and  white  of  egg  beaten 
stiff  and  dry. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  351 

Golden  Corn  Cake. 

One-quarter  of  a  cup  of  cornmeal,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  flour,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar,  five  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  cup  of  milk,  one 
egg,  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients;  add  milk,  egg  well  beaten,  and 
butter;  bake  in  shallow  buttered  pan  in  hot  oven  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Corn  Cake  (Sweetened  with  Molasses). 

One  cup  of  cornmeal,  three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  flour,  three 
and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one-quarter  cup  of  molasses,  three-quarters  of  a  cup  of 
milk,  one  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  and  bake  as  golden  corn  cake,  adding  molasses  to  milk. 

White  Corn  Cake. 

One-quarter  cup  of  butter,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one  and 
one-third  cups  of  milk,  whites  of  three  eggs,  one  and  a  quarter 
cups  of  white  cornmeal,  one  and  a  quarter  cups  of  flour,  four 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Cream  the  butter;  add  sugar  gradually;  add  milk,  alternat- 
ing with  dry  ingredients,  mixed  and  sifted.  Beat  thoroughly; 
add  whites  of  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  buttered  cake  pan 
thirty  minutes. 

White  Cornmeal  Cake. 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk,  one-half  cup  of  white  cornmeal, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Add  salt  to  cornmeal,  and  gradually  pour  on  milk.  Turn 
into  a  buttered  shallow  pan  to  the  depth  of  one-fourth  inch. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  crisp.  Split  and  spread  with 
butter. 

Pop-overs. 

One  cup  of  flour,  one-quarter  teaspoonful  of  salt,  seven- 
eighths  of  a  cup  of  milk,  two  eggs,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of 
melted  butter. 

Mix  salt  and  flour;  add  milk  gradually,  in  order  to  obtain  a 
smooth  batter.  Add  egg  beaten  until  light,  and  butter;  beat 
two  minutes  —  using  Dover  egg-beater  —  turn  into  hissing  hot 
buttered  iron  gem  pans,  and  bake  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven.  They  may  be  baked  in  buttered  earthen  cups, 
when  the  bottom  will  have  a  glazed  appearance.  Small  round 
iron  gem  pans  are  best  for  pop-overs. 


35*  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

GRIDDLE  CAKES. 
Sour  Milk  Griddle  Cakes. 

Two  and  a  half  cups  of  flour,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  two  cups  of  sour  milk,  one  and  a  quarter  teaspoonfuls  of 
soda,  one  egg. 

Mix  and  sift  flour,  salt,  and  soda;  add  sour  milk,  and  egg 
well  beaten.  Drop  by  spoonfuls  on  a  greased  hot  griddle; 
cook  on  one  side.  When  puffed,  full  of  bubbles,  and  cooked 
on  edges,  turn,  and  cook  other  side.  Serve  with  butter  and 
maple  syrup. 

Sweet  Milk  Griddle  Cakes. 

Three  cups  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  baking 
powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  sugar, 
two  cups  of  milk,  one  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter. 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients;  beat  egg,  add  milk,  and  pour 
slowly  on  first  mixture.  Beat  thoroughly,  and  add  butter. 
Cook  same  as  sour  milk  griddle-cakes.  Begin  cooking  cakes 
at  once  or  more  baking  powder  will  be  required. 

Entire  Wheat  Griddle  Cakes. 

One-half  cup  of  entire  wheat  flour,  one  cup  of  flour,  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one-half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  egg,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Prepare  and  cook  same  as  sweet  milk  griddle  cakes. 

Corn  Griddle  Cakes. 

Two  cups  of  flour,  one-half  cup  of  cornmeal,  one  and  a 
half  tablespoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  one-third  cup  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half  cups 
boiling  water,  one  and  a  quarter  cups  of  milk,  one  egg,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Add  meal  to  boiling  water,  and  boil  five  minutes;  turn  into 
bowl,  add  milk,  and  remaining  dry  ingredients,  mixed  and 
sifted,  then  the  egg  well  beaten,  and  butter.  Cook  same  as 
other  griddle  cakes. 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes. 

Two  and  a  half  cups  of  flour,  one-half  cup  cold  cooked  rice, 
one  tablespoonful  of  baking  powder,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  milk, 
one  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  and  sift   dry  ingredients.    Work  in  rice  with  tips   of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  353 

fingers;  add  egg  well  beaten,  milk,  and  butter.     Cook  same  as 
other  griddle  cakes. 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes.  (Another  Method.) 
One  cup  of  milk,  one  cup  of  warm  boiled  rice,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs,  one 
tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  seven-eighths  cup  of  flour. 

Pour  milk  over  rice  and  salt,  add  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  un- 
til thick  and  lemon  color,  butter,  flour  and  fold  in  whites  of 
eggs  beaten  until  stiff  and  dry. 

Bread  Griddle  Cakes. 

One  and  a  half  cups  of  fine  stale  breadcrumbs,  one  and  a 
half  cups  of  scalded  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
eggs,  one-half  cup  of  flour,  one-half  teaspoon ful  of  salt,  four 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Add  milk  and  butter  to  crumbs,  and  soak  until  crumbs  are 
soft;  add  eggs  well  beaten,  then  flour,  salt,  and  baking  pow- 
der, mixed  and  sifted.  Cook  same  as  other  griddle  cakes. 

Soyer's  Cake  Without  Flour. 

One  pound  ground  sweet  almonds,  one-half  pound  of  but- 
ter, one  pound  of  sugar,  ten  yolks  of  eggs,  three  ounces  of 
arrowroot  fecule,  ten  whites  of  eggs.  Flavor  as  to  taste. 

Mix  up  butter,  sugar,  almonds  and  yolks  of  eggs  altogether 
with  the  flavor.  Beat  it  up  well,  then  mix  up  the  arrowroot, 
then  beat  the  whites  of  eggs  very  stiff.  Mix  up  gently  as  for 
sponge  cake.  Have  your  mold  well  buttered.  Pour  the  mix- 
ture in  half  the  mold  and  bake  it  slowly  in  a  paper  bag,  or 
otherwise.  With  this  mixture  you  can  cook  it  in  small  bak- 
ing-sheets buttered  in  the  same  way.  Lay  the  mixture  about 
one  inch  thick  and  cook  slowly.  With  this  you  can  make  any 
cake  or  dessert  by  cutting  it  in  any  shape  you  wish,  and, 
iced  in  any  color  you  fancy  and  any  flavor. 

Ginger  Bread. 

One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of  treacle,  one-quarter  pound 
of  butter,  one  ounce  of  ginger,  some  candied  peel,  a  few  car- 
raway  seeds  ground,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda.  To  be  baked  in 
a  slow  oven.  Flour  to  be  mixed  in  gradually,  the  butter  and 
treacle  to  be  milk-warm.  The  soda  to  be  put  in  last.  Let  it 
stand  half  an  hour  to  rise. 

Spice  Cake. 

Place  in  an  enameled  saucepan  a  pint  of  golden  syrup,  one- 
half  pound  of  fresh  butter,  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon, 


354  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

half  an  ounce  of  allspice  and  powdered  ginger,  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mixed  coriander  and  aniseed,  and  blend  thor- 
oughly over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  get  too  hot.  Now  add 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  fairly  thick  dough,  and  let  it  stand 
for  a  time  in  a  cool  place.  Blend  with  it  two  ounces  each  of 
chopped  candied  peel  and  cherries,  with  an  ounce  of  currants, 
and  roll  out  till  an  inch  thick.  Then  cut  into  squares  and 
bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 

This  is  the  cake  that  one  sees  everywhere  at  the  fairs  in 
country  towns,  cut  into  the  shape  of  pigs,  fish,  etc.,  and  orna- 
mented with  sugar  piping. 

Butter  Cakes. 

Mix  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  with  half  a  pound  of  melted  but- 
ter, add  seven  beaten  eggs,  and  blend  with  three  pounds  of 
flour  and  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Thoroughly  beat  the  whole, 
spread  thinly  on  buttered  pans  or  baking  dishes  and  let  it 
rise.  When  sufficiently  risen,  brush  the  surface  with  melted 
butter  and  sprinkle  freely  with  sugar,  grated  cinnamon,  and 
chopped  almonds.  Then  bake  until  done. 

Serve  hot  for  luncheon  or  tea. 

Wonders. 

Beat  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  melted  butter  with  the  same 
quantity  of  sifted  sugar  until  it  forms  a  cream.  Now  blend 
with  three  whipped  eggs,  one  pound  of  flour,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg.  Mix  thoroughly  and  set  aside  for  a  time.  After  it 
has  risen,  roll  out  lightly  and  cut  into  rounds.  Two  slits  are 
next  cut  across  the  center  of  each  cake  and  the  side  pieces 
twisted  through  each  other  without  breaking  them.  Throw 
into  boiling  fat  until  done.  Dust  well  with  sugar  before  serv- 
ing. 

Cheese  Wafers. 

Blend  half  a  pound  of  Gruyere  or  other  mild  cheese  with  the 
same  quantity  of  butter  until  it  is  thoroughly  smooth.  Then 
add  four  beaten  eggs,  a  little  water,  and  sufficient  flour  to  make 
a  rather  stiff  paste.  After  well  rolling,  cut  the  paste  into  thin 
sticks  about  half  an  inch  wide,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until 
well  browned. 

These  wafers  are  usually  eaten  very  hot  with  fruit  or  salad. 
Brioches. 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  German  yeast  with  sufficient  water  to  make  a  stiff  paste. 
After  well  kneading  form  it  into  a  ball  and  place  it  in  a  large 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  355 

bowl  of  warm  water  near  a  fire.  Now  take  another  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  flour  and  mix  thoroughly  with  the  same  weight  of 
butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  spoonful 
of  sugar.  Beat  the  whole  thoroughly  and  add  gradually  two 
eggs  to  the  dough.  Care  must  be  taken  that  this  dough  is 
thoroughly  light,  and  with  this  object  the  French  housewife 
generally  throws  it  on  the  table  a  few  times. 

Next  take  out  of  the  water  the  ball  of  paste,  place  it  on  the 
top  of  the  dough  and  roll  both  together  several  times.  Let  it 
now  stand  for  two  hours  in  a  cool  place  to  rise,  and  then  bake 
it  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  glazing  the  top  with  a  little 
egg.  On  turning  out  dust  well  with  sugar. 

This  is  an  extremely  dainty  cake  and  is  very  popular  through- 
out France,  although  it  is  rather  troublesome  to  make. 

Grecian  Easter  Cakes. 

Thoroughly  mix  four  ounces  of  butter  with  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  and  blend  with  half  a  pound  of  flour,  adding 
four  beaten  eggs,  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of 
yeast.  After  rising  for  two  hours  form  into  the  shape  of  a 
triangle  or  a  large  fleur-de-lys  —  to  symbolize  the  Trinity  — 
cover  thickly  with  sifted  sugar  and  bake  for  an  hour. 

Lemon  Twists. 

Mix  three  ounces  of  flour  with  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and 
sufficient  water  to  make  a  paste.  Flavor  with  the  juice  and 
the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  After  standing 
for  half  an  hour  roll  the  paste  out  very  thin,  cut  it  into  strips, 
twist  them  into  curls,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Dust  with  castor 
sugar  and  serve  very  hot,  with  jam. 

Sparrow  Cakes. 

Make  a  thick  batter  of  flour,  eggs,  and  milk,  and  flavor  with 
a  little  salt.  Beat  thoroughly  and  then  sprinkle  it  or  pour  it 
slowly  through  a  colander  into  a  pan  of  boiling  fat  so  that  the 
batter  falls  in  separate  drops.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  then 
drain  carefully  from  the  fat,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and 
serve. 

Sparrow  cake?  are  mainly  used  as  a  garnish  with  dessert. 
Another  method  is  to  cook  them  in  water  instead  of  oil,  and 
then  roll  in  finely-grated  breadcrumbs  and  brown  in  the  oven; 
but  this  does  not  give  such  a  good  result. 

Honey  Cakes. 

Boil  an  ounce  of  sugar  in  two  cupfuls  of  honey,  and  then 


356  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely-chopped  almonds.  After 
simmering  for  another  five  minutes  add  half  a  pound  of 
chopped  candied  peel,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  cinnamon,  a  pinch  of  powdered  cloves,  half  a 
nutmeg  grated,  as  much  bicarbonate  of  soda  as  will  stand  on  a 
shilling,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  rum.  Add  enough  flour  to 
stiffen,  and  after  thoroughly  mixing  cut  the  paste  into  pieces 
about  three  inches  square,  and  roll  out  very  thin.  Bake  in  a 
slow  oven,  and  when  cool  sprinkle  well  with  sifted  sugar. 

Sponge  Cake  Tarts. 

Take  some  sponge  cakes,  scoop  out  the  centers,  and  roll 
them  first  in  jam  and  then  in  chopped  almonds  or  other  nuts. 
In  the  hollow  of  each  place  a  layer  of  whipped  cream  sweet- 
ened with  sifted  sugar,  and  on  this  lay  half  a  stewed  peach. 
Canned  ones  will  serve  the  purpose. 

These  are  eaten  cold  for  dessert  or  at  afternoon  tea,  and  are 
quickly  made  in  case  of  an  unexpected  demand. 

Rum  Rings. 

Sift  twelve  ounces  of  the  finest  flour,  and  mix  thoroughly 
with  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  the  crumbled  yolks  of  four 
hard-boiled  eggs.  When  well  blended  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  castor  sugar  and  a  liquor-glassful  of  Kirsch,  or  rum,  with 
just  enough  milk  to  make  the  whole  into  a  stiff  dough,  being 
particularly  careful  not  to  make  this  dough  too  moist.  The 
dough  should  now  be  rolled  out  rather  thin  and  cut  into  rings. 
Put  these  on  a  buttered  plate  or  baking  tin,  brush  the  surface 
with  a  little  sweetened  milk,  and  sprinkle  with  grated  almonds. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done.  The  time  will  vary  with 
the  thickness  and  size  of  the  cakes.  They  should  be  kept  two 
or  three  days  in  a  tin  before  eating. 

Rum  Fingers. 

Whisk  three  eggs  with  seven  ounces  of  castor  sugar  until 
thoroughly  creamed,  and  gradually  add  a  small  glass  of  rum 
and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel.  Now  blend  thoroughly  with 
half  a  pound  of  fine  flour  and  three  ounces  of  butter  (melted), 
and  when  the  whole  is  worked  up  to  a  cream  set  it  aside  for 
ten  or  twelve  hours.  Then  shape  the  cream  into  fingers  and 
fry  them  in  butter  till  lightly  browned,  after  which  great  care 
must  be  taken  to  drain  them  thoroughly  before  they  cool. 

They  are  usually  eaten  cold,  dusted  over  with  sifted  sugar. 
Supper  Cakes. 

Mix  sufficient  flour  with  a  pint  of  hot  milk  and  a  little  yeast 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  357 

to  make  a  dough,  and  let  it  remain  over  night  to  rise.  In  the 
morning  cream  two  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
with  a  cupful  of  sifted  sugar,  and  beat  thoroughly  into  the 
dough,  which  should  be  again  left  for  a  while  to  rise.  Now 
pour  it  into  some  pie  plates,  adding  a  little  more  flour  if  it 
appears  too  soft,  and  leave  for  a  time  in  a  warm  place.  Next 
brush  the  surface  of  each  cake  with  some  melted  butter,  and 
sprinkle  thickly  with  powdered  cinnamon  and  castor  sugar 
mixed,  and  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

These  cakes  are  always  cut  into  slices  and  eaten  warm. 
Afternoon  Cakes. 

Take  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  and  one  cupful  of  milk,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  three  eggs,  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  minced  raisins,  currants,  and  citron  in  equal  parts, 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Mix  thoroughly, 
flavor  with  cinnamon,  and  bake  in  small  buttered  pans. 

These  cakes  are  usually  eaten  warm  with  chocolate. 

Aniseed  Cakes. 

Beat  four  eggs  for  ten  minutes  with  one  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  and  let  stand  for  an  hour,  after  which  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  hartshorn  and  a  tablespoonful  of  essence  of  lemon.  Mix 
with  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  fairly  stiff  paste.  About  two 
pounds  will  be  needed.  Divide  this  into  two  or  more  por- 
tions, according  to  the  size  of  the  cakes  desired,  and  leave  it 
aside  over  night.  In  the  morning  sprinkle  the  buttered  cake- 
tins  with  aniseed  before  placing  the  dough  in  them.  Bake  in  a 
brisk  oven  but  watch  that  the  cakes  do  not  burn. 

Buckwheat   Cakes. 

One-third  cup  of  fine  breadcrumbs,  two  cups  of  scalded 
milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  yeast  cake,  one- 
half  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  one  and  three-quarter  cups  of 
buckwheat  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  molasses. 

Pour  milk  over  crumbs,  and  soak  thirty  minutes;  add  salt, 
yeast  cake  dissolved  in  lukewarm  water,  and  buckwheat  to 
make  a  batter  thin  enough  to  pour.  Let  rise  over  night;  in 
the  morning,  stir  well,  add  molasses,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of 
soda  dissolved  in  one-fourth  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  and  cook 
same  as  griddle  cakes.  Save  enough  batter  to  raise  another 
mixing,  instead  of  using  yeast  cake;  it  will  require  one-half 
cup. 

Waffles. 

One  and  three-quarter  cups  of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 


358  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

baking  powder,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  cup  of  milk, 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter. 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients;  add  milk  gradually,  yolks  of 
eggs  well  beaten,  butter  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten  stiff;  cook 
on  a  greased  hot  waffle-iron.  Serve  with  maple  syrup. 

A  waffle-iron  should  fit  closely  on  range,  be  well  heated  on 
one  side,  turned,  heated  on  other  side,  and  thoroughly  greased 
before  iron  is  filled.  In  filling,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  mixture 
in  each  compartment  near  center  of  iron,  cover,  and  mixture 
will  spread  to  just  fill  iron.  If  sufficiently  heated,  it  should  be 
turned  almost  as  soon  as  filled  and  covered.  In  using  a  new 
iron,  special  care  must  be  taken  in  greasing,  or  waffles  will 
stick. 

Waffles  with  Boiled  Cider. 

Follow  directions  for  making  waffles.  Serve  with  boiled 
cider.  Allow  twice  as  much  cider  as  sugar,  and  let  boil  un- 
til of  a  syrup  consistency. 

Virginia  Waffles. 

One  and  a  half  cups  of  boiling  water,  one-half  cup  of  white 
cornmeal,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  milk,  three  cups  of  flour, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  and  a  quarter  tablespoonfuls 
of  baking  powder,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter. 

Cook  meal  in  boiling  water  twenty  minutes;  add  milk,  dry 
ingredients  mixed  and  sifted,  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten,  butter, 
and  whites  of  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Cook  same  as  waffles. 

Raised  Waffles. 

One  and  three-quarters  cup  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one-quarter  of  yeast  cake,  one- 
quarter  of  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water,  two  cups  of  flour,  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs. 

Scald  milk;  add  salt  and  butter,  and  when  lukewarm,  add 
yeast  cake  dissolved  in  water  and  flour.  Beat  well;  let  rise 
over  night;  add  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten,  and  whites  of  eggs 
beaten  stiff.  Cook  same  as  waffles.  By  using  a  whole  yeast 
cake  the  mixture  will  rise  in  one  and  one-half  hours. 

Fried  Drop  Cakes. 

One  and  one-third  cups  of  flour,  two  and  one-half  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder,  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  359 

one-third  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  one  egg,  one 
teaspoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Beat  egg  until  light;  add  milk,  dry  ingredients  mixed  and 
sifted,  and  melted  butter.  Drop  by  spoonfuls  in  hot,  new,  deep 
fat;  fry  until  light  brown  and  cooked  through,  which  must  at 
first  be  determined  by  piercing  with  a  skewer,  or  breaking 
apart.  Remove  with  a  skimmer,  and  drain  on  brown  paper. 

Rye  Drop  Cakes. 

Two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  rye  meal,  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of 
flour,  two  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  one- 
half  cup  of  milk,  one  egg. 

Mix  and  si£t  dry  ingredients;  add  milk  gradually,  molasses, 
and  egg  well  beaten.  Cook  same  as  fried  drop  cakes. 

Raised  Doughnuts. 

One  cup  of  milk,  one-quarter  of  yeast  cake,  one-quarter  of  a 
cup  of  lukewarm  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-third  of  a 
cup  of  butter  and  lard  mixed,  one  cup  of  light  brown  sugar, 
two  eggs,  one-half  a  grated  nutmeg,  flour. 

Scald  and  cool  milk;  when  lukewarm,  add  yeast  cake  dis- 
solved in  water,  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter; 
let  rise  over  night.  In  morning,  add  shortening  melted,  sugar, 
eggs  well  beaten,  nutmeg,  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff 
dough ;  let  rise  again,  and  if  too  soft  to  handle,  add  more  flour. 
Toss  on  floured  board,  pat,  and  roll  to  three-fourths  inch  thick- 
ness. Shape  with  cutter  and  work  between  hands  until  round. 
Place  on  floured  board,  let  rise  one  hour,  turn,  and  let  rise 
again;  fry  in  deep  fat,  and  drain  on  brown  paper.  Cool,  and 
roll  in  powdered  sugar. 

Doughnuts. 

One  cup  of  sugar,  two  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
three  eggs,  one  cup  of  milk,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pow- 
der, one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one-quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  flour  to  roll. 

Cream  the  butter,  and  add  one-half  of  the  sugar.  Beat  egg 
until  light,  add  remaining  sugar,  and  combine  mixtures.  Add 
three  and  one-half  cups  of  flour,  mixed  and  sifted  with  bak- 
ing powder,  salt,  and  spices;  then  enough  more  flour  to  make 
dough  stiff  enough  to  roll.  Toss  one-third  of  mixture  on 
floured  board,  knead  slightly,  pat,  and  roll  out  to  one-fourth 
inch  thickness.  Shape  with  a  doughnut  cutter,  fry  in  deep 


360  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

fat,  take  up  on  a  skewer,  and  drain  on  brown  paper.  Add 
trimmings  to  one-half  remaining  mixture,  roll,  shape,  and  fry 
as  before;  repeat.  Doughnuts  should  come  quickly  to  top  of 
fat,  brown  on  one  side,  then  be  turned  to  brown  on  the  other; 
avoid  turning  more  than  once.  The  fat  must  be  kept  at  a 
uniform  temperature.  If  too  cold,  doughnuts  will  absorb  fat; 
if  too  hot,  doughnuts  will  brown  before  sufficiently  risen. 

Doughnuts.  (Another  Method.) 

Four  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
one  and  three-quarter  teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  one  and  three- 
quarter  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one-quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
one  cup  of  sour  milk,  one  egg. 

Put  flour  in  shallow  pan,  add  salt,  soda,  cream  of  tartar,  and 
spices.  Work  in  butter  with  tips  of  fingers,  add  sugar,  egg 
well  beaten,  and  sour  milk.  Stir  thoroughly  and  toss  on  board 
thickly  dredged  with  flour;  knead  slightly,  using  more  flour  if 
necessary.  Pat  and  roll  out  to  one-fourth  inch  thickness, 
shape,  fry,  and  drain.  Sour  milk  doughnuts  may  be  turned  as 
soon  as  they  come  to  top  of  fat,  and  frequently  afterwards. 

Doughnuts.  (Another  Method.) 

Two  cups  of  sugar,  four  eggs,*  one  and  one-third  cups  of 
sour  milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg.  Flour. 

Mix  ingredients  in  order  given;  shape,  fry,  and  drain  as 
previously  described. 

Crullers. 

One-quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar,  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  whites  of  two  eggs,  four  cups  of  flour,  one-quarter 
teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  three  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder,  one  cup  of  milk,  powdered  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon. 

Cream  the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  yolks  of  'eggs  well 
beaten,  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Mix  flour,  nutmeg 
and  baking  powder;  add  alternately  with  milk  to  first  mixture, 
toss  on  floured  board,  roll  thin,  and  cut  in  pieces  three  inches 
long  by  two  inches  wide;  make  four  one-inch  parallel  gashes 
crosswise  at  equal  intervals.  Take  up  by  running  finger  in 
and  out  of  gashes,  and  lower  into  deep  fat.  Fry  as  described 
P-  359- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  361 


CAKE   FILLINGS,   FROSTINGS  AND 
ICINGS. 

To   Make   Cream  Filling. 

Take  one  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  one  and  a  quarter  cups 
of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  four  eggs,  four 
cups  of  scalded  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  or  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  extract. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  add  eggs  slightly  beaten,  and  pour 
on  gradually  the  scalded  milk.  Cook  fifteen  minutes  in  double 
boiler,  stirring  constantly  until  thickened,  afterwards  occa- 
sionally. Cool  and  flavor. 

Chocolate  Cream  Filling. 

Put  one  and  a  quarter  squares  of  bakers'  chocolate  in  a 
saucepan  and  melt  over  hot  water.  Add  to  above  cream  filling, 
using  in  making  two  cups  of  sugar  in  place  of  one  and  a  half 
cups. 

Coffee  Cream  Filling. 

Flavor  cream  filling  with  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  o£ 
coffee  extract. 

French  Cream  Filling. 

One  and  one-half  cups  of  thick  cream,  one-half  cup  of  milk, 
one-half  cup  powdered  sugar,  whites  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla. 

Dilute  cream  with  milk  and  beat  until  stiff,  using  Dover  egg- 
beater.  Add  sugar,  white  of  egg  beaten  until  stiff,  and  vanilla. 

Strawberry  Filling. 

Two  cups  of  thick  cream,  one  cup  of  sugar,  whites  of  two 
eggs,  one  cup  of  strawberries,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  cream  until  stiff  —  Dover  egg-beater  —  add  sugar, 
whites  of  eggs  beaten  until  stiff,  strawberries  mashed,  and 
vanilla. 

Lemon  Filling. 

Two  cups  of  sugar,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  the  grated 
rind  of  four  lemons,  one-half  cup  lemon  juice,  two  eggs,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  butter. 

Mix  sugar  and  flour,  add  grated  rind,  lemon  juice,  and  egg 


362  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

slightly  beaten.  Put  butter  in  saucepan;  when  melted,  add 
mixture,  and  stir  constantly  until  boiling-point  is  reached. 
Care  must  be  taken  that  mixture  does  not  adhere  to  bottom  of 
saucepan.  Cool  before  spreading. 

Orange  Filling. 

One  cup  of  sugar,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  grated  rind  of 
one  orange,  one-half  cup  orange  juice,  one  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  two  eggs  slightly  beaten,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  but- 
ter. 

Mix  ingredients  in  order  given.  Cook  ten  minutes  in  double 
boiler,  stirring  constantly.  Cool  before  spreading. 

Chocolate   Filling. 

Five  squares  of  chocolate,  two  cups  of  powdered  sugar,  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla. 

Melt  chocolate  over  hot  water,  add  one-half  the  sugar  and 
milk;  add  remaining  sugar,  and  yolk  of  egg;  then  cook  in 
double  boiler  until  it  thickens,  stirring  constantly  at  first,  that 
mixture  may  be  perfectly  smooth.  Cool  slightly,  flavor,  and 
spread. 

Nut  or  Fruit  Filling. 

To  white  mountain  cream  add  chopped  walnuts,  almonds, 
figs,  dates,  or  raisins,  separately  or  in  combination. 

Cocoanut   Filling. 

Whites  of  four  eggs,  fresh  grated  cocoanut,  powdered  sugar. 

Beat  whites  of  eggs  on  a  platter  with  a  fork  until  stiff.  Add 
enough  powdered  sugar  to  spread.  Spread  over  cake,  sprinkle 
thickly  with  cocoanut.  Use  for  layer  cake,  having  filling  be- 
tween and  on  top. 

Lemon  Cocoanut  Cream. 

Juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  two  cups  of  powdered 
sugar,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  two  cups  of  shredded  cocoanut. 

Mix  lemon  juice  and  rind  with  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs 
slightly  beaten;  cook  ten  minutes  in  double  boiler,  stirring 
constantly;  then  add  cocoanut.  Cool,  and  use  as  a  filling  for 
corn-starch  cake,  or  any  cake  made  from  the  whites  of  eggs. 

Fig  Filling. 

One  pound  of  figs,  finely  chopped,  one  cup  sugar,  one  cup 
of  boiling  water,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 

Mix  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  cook  in  double  boiler 
until  thick  enough  to  spread.  Spread  while  hot.  Figs  may  be 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  363 

chopped  quickly  by  forcing  through  a  meat  chopper,  stirring 
occasionally. 

Marshmallow  Paste. 

One  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  milk,  half- 
pound  marshmallows,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water,  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Put  sugar  and  milk  in  a  saucepan,  heat  slowly  to  boiling- 
point  without  stirring,  and  boil  six  minutes.  Break  marsh- 
mallows  in  pieces  and  melt  in  double  boiler,  add  hot  water, 
and  cook  until  mixture  is  smooth,  then  add  hot  syrup  gradually, 
stirring  constantly.  Beat  until  cool  enough  to  spread,  then  add 
vanilla.  This  may  be  used  for  both  filling  and  frosting. 

Pistachio  Paste. 

To  marshmallow  paste  add  a  few  drops  extract  of  almond, 
one-third  cup  of  pistachio  nuts  blanched  and  chopped,  and  leaf 
green  to  color.  Use  same  as  marshmallow  paste. 

Prune  Almund  Filling. 

To  white  mountain  cream  add  one  cup  of  selected  prunes, 
stoned  and  cut  in  pieces,  and  one-third  cup  of  almonds  blanched 
and  chopped. 

Confectioners'  Frosting. 

Four  tablespoonfuls  boiling  water,  one  cupful  of  cream,  con- 
fectioners' sugar,  flavoring. 

To  liquid  add  enough  sifted  sugar  to  make  of  right  con- 
sistency to  spread;  then  add  flavoring.  Fresh  fruit  juice  may 
be  used  in  place  of  boiling  water.  This  is  a  most  satisfactory 
frosting,  and  is  both  easily  and  quickly  made. 

Orange  Frosting. 

Grated  rind  of  two  oranges,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  brandy, 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange 
juice,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  confectioners'  sugar. 

Add  rind  to  brandy  and  fruit  juices;  let  stand  fifteen  min- 
utes. Strain,  and  add  gradually  to  yolk  of  egg  slightly  beaten. 
Stir  in  confectioners'  sugar  until  of  right  consistency  to 
spread. 

Gelatine  Frosting. 

Five  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  one  teaspoonful  of 
granulated  gelatine,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  one  and  a  half 
cups  of  confectioners'  sugar. 

Dissolve  gelatine  in  boiling  water.    Add  sugar  and  flavoring 


364  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

and    beat    until    of    right    consistency    to    spread.     Crease    in 
squares  when  slightly  hardened. 

Plain  Frosting. 

Whites  of  two  eggs,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  cold  water,  one 
and  a  half  cups  of  confectioners'  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  or  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Beat  whites  of  eggs  until  stiff;  add  water  and  sugar.  Beat 
thoroughly,  then  add  flavoring.  Use  more  sugar  if  needed. 
Spread  with  a  broad-bladed  knife. 

Chocolate  Frosting  (I). 

Three  squares  of  chocolate,  one  cup  of  scalded  cream,  few 
grains  salt,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  melted  but- 
ter, confectioners'  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Melt  chocolate  over  hot  water,  add  cream  gradually,  salt, 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  butter.  Stir  in  confectioners'  sugar  until 
of  right  consistency  to  spread;  then  add  flavoring. 

Chocolate  Frosting  (II). 

Three  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half  cups  of 
hot  water,  eight  squares  of  chocolate,  melted,  one  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla. 

Boil  sugar  and  water,  without  stirring,  until  syrup  will 
thread  when  dropped  from  tip  of  spoon.  Pour  syrup  gradually 
on  melted  chocolate,  and  continue  beating  until  of  right  con- 
sistency to  spread;  then  add  flavoring. 

Chocolate  Frosting  (III). 

Four  squares  of  chocolate,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter,  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water,  confectioners'  sugar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Melt  chocolate  over  boiling  water,  add  butter  and  hot 
water.  Cool,  and  add  sugar  to  make  of  right  consistency  to 
spread.  Flavor  with  vanilla. 

White  Mountain  Cream. 

Two  cups  of  sugar,  two  cups  of  boiling  water,  six  whites  of 
eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  or  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice. 

Put  sugar  and  water  in  saucepan,  and  stir  to  prevent  sugar 
from  adhering  to  saucepan ;  heat  gradually  to  boiling-point 
and  boil  without  stirring  until  syrup  will  thread  when  dropped 
from  tip  of  spoon  or  tines  of  silver  fork.  Pour  syrup  gradu- 
ally on  beaten  white  of  egg,  beating  mixture  constantly,  and 
continue  beating  until  of  right  consistency  to  spread;  then  add 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  365 

flavoring  and  pour  over  cake,  spreading  evenly  with  back  of 
spoon.  Crease  as  soon  as  firm.  If  not  beaten  long  enough, 
frosting  will  run;  if  beaten  too  long,  it  will  not  be  smooth. 
Frosting  beaten  too  long  may  be  improved  by  adding  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice  or  boiling  water.  This  frosting  is  soft 
inside,  and  has  a  glossy  surface.  If  frosting  is  to  be  orna- 
mented with  nuts  or  candied  cherries,  place  them  on  frosting 
as  soon  as  spread. 

Ice  Cream  Frosting. 

Four  cups  of  sugar,  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  whites 
of  four  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Follow  directions  for  white  mountain  cream. 

Boiled  Frosting. 

Two  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  water,  whites  of  four  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla,  or  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice. 

Make  same  as  white  mountain  cream.  This  frosting,  on 
account  of  the  larger  quantity  of  egg,  does  not  stiffen  so 
quickly  as  white  mountain  cream,  therefore  is  more  success- 
fully made  by  the  inexperienced. 

Boiled  Chocolate  Frosting. 

To  white  mountain  cream  or  boiled  frosting  add  one  and 
one-half  squares  of  melted  chocolate  as  soon  as  syrup  is  added 
to  whites  of  eggs. 

Brown  Frosting. 

Make  same  as  boiled  frosting,  using  brown  sugar  in  place 
of  white  sugar. 

Maple  Sugar  Frosting. 

Two  pounds  of  soft  maple  sugar,  one  cup  boiling  water, 
whites  of  four  eggs. 

Break  sugar  in  small  pieces,  put  in  saucepan  with  boiling 
water,  and  stir  occasionally  until  sugar  is  dissolved.  Boil 
without  stirring  until  syrup  will  thread  when  dropped  from  tip 
of  spoon.  Pour  syrup  gradually  on  beaten  whites,  beating 
mixture  constantly  and  continue  beating  until  of  right  con- 
sistency to  spread. 

Cream  Maple  Sugar  Frosting. 

Two  pounds  of  soft  maple  sugar,  two  cups  of  cream. 
Break  sugar  in   small  pieces,   put  in   saucepan  with   cream, 
and   stir   occasionally   until   sugar   is    dissolved.     Boil   without 


366  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

stirring  until  a  ball  can  be  formed  when  mixture  is  tried  in 
cold  water.     Beat  until  of  right  consistency  to  spread. 

Milk  Frosting. 

Three  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Put  butter  in  saucepan;  when  melted,  add  sugar  and  milk. 
Stir,  to  be  sure  that  sugar  does  not  adhere  to  saucepan,  heat 
to  boiling-point,  and  boil  without  stirring  thirteen  minutes. 
Remove  from  fire,  and  beat  until  of  right  consistency  to  spread ; 
then  add  flavoring  and  pour  over  cake,  spreading  evenly  with 
back  of  spoon.  Crease  as  soon  as  firm. 

Caramel  Frosting   (I). 

Make  same  as  milk  frosting,  adding  one  and  one-half  squares 
of  melted  chocolate  as  soon  as  boiling-point  is  reached,  and 
flavoring  with  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon. 

Caramel  Frosting  (II). 

One-third  cup  of  sugar,  two-thirds  cup  of  grated  maple 
sugar,  one  cup  of  butter,  two-thirds  cup  of  cream. 

Mix  ingredients  and  boil  thirteen  minutes.  Beat  until  of 
right  consistency  to  spread. 

Nut  Caramel  Frosting. 

Two  and  a  half  cups  of  brown  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vanilla,  half  a  cup  of  white  sugar,  whites  of  four  eggs,  half 
a  cup  of  English  walnut  meats,  broken  in  pieces. 

Boil  sugar  and  water  as  for  white  mountain  cream.  Pour 
gradually,  while  beating  constantly,  on  beaten  whites  of  eggs, 
and  continue  the  beating  until  mixture  is  nearly  cooked.  Set 
pan  containing  mixture  in  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook 
over  range,  stirring  constantly,  until  mixture  becomes  granu- 
lar around  edge  of  pan.  Remove  from  pan  of  hot  water  and 
beat,  using  a  spoon,  until  mixture  will  hold  its  shape.  Add 
nuts  and  vanilla,  pour  on  cake,  and  spread  with  back  of  spoon, 
leaving  a  rough  surface. 

Opera  Caramel  Frosting. 

Three  cups  of  brown  sugar,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  thin 
cream,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

Boil  ingredients  together  in  a  smooth  granite  saucepan  until 
a  ball  can  be  formed,  when  mixture  is  tried  in  cold  water. 
It  takes  about  forty  minutes  for  boiling.  Beat  until  of  right 
consistency  to  spread. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  367 

Chocolate  Fudge  Frosting. 

Three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  cup  of  unsweetened  pow- 
dered cocoa,  two  and  a  half  cups  of  confectioners'  sugar,  few 
grains  of  salt,  half  cup  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Melt  butter,  add  cocoa,  sugar,  salt  and  milk.  Heat  to  boil- 
ing-point, and  boil  about  eight  minutes.  Remove  from  fire 
and  beat  until  creamy.  Add  vanilla  and  pour  over  cake. 

Mocha  Frosting. 

One  cup  of  butter,  three  cups  of  confectioners'  sugar,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  breakfast  cocoa,  coffee  infusion. 

Cream  butter,  and  add  sugar  gradually,  continuing  the  beat- 
ing; then  add  cocoa  and  coffee  infusion,  drop  by  drop,  until  of 
right  consistency  to  spread,  or  force  through  a  pastry  bag  and 
tube. 

Fondant  Icing. 

The  mixture  in  which  small  cakes  are  dipped  for  icing  is 
fondant,  the  recipe  for  which  may  be  found  in  chapter  on 
Confections.  Cakes  for  dipping  must  first  be  glazed. 

To  GLAZE  CAKES. —  Beat  white  of  one  egg  slightly  and  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar.  Apply  with  a  brush  to 
top  and  sides  of  cakes.  After  glazing,  cakes  should  stand  over- 
night before  dipping. 

To  DIP  CAKES. —  Melt  fondant  over  hot  water,  and  color 
and  flavor  as  desired.  Stir,  to  prevent  crust  from  forming  on 
top.  Take  cake  to  be  dipped  on  a  three-tined  fork  and  lower 
in  fondant  three-fourths  the  depth  of  cake.  Remove  from 
fondant,  invert,  and  slip  from  fork  to  a  board.  Decorate  with 
ornamented  frosting  and  nut  meat,  candied  cherries,  angelica, 
or  candied  violets.  For  small  ornamented  cakes,  pound  cake 
mixture  is  baked  a  little  more  than  one  inch  thick  in  shallow 
pans,  and  when  cool  cut  in  squares,  diamonds,  triangles,  circles, 
crescents,  etc. 

Marshmallow  Frosting 

Melt  one  cup  white  fondant,  add  the  white  of  one  egg  beaten 
until  stiff,  and  stir  over  the  fire  two  minutes.  Remove  from 
range,  and  beat  until  of  right  consistency  to  spread.  Flavor 
with  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  water  and  vanilla.  This  is  a 
most  delicious  frosting  for  chocolate  cake,  but  will  never 
spread  perfectly  smooth. 

Ornamental  Frosting. 

Four  cups  of  sugar,  two  cups  of  water,  whites  of  six  eggs, 
half  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid. 


368  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Boil  sugar  and  water  until  syrup  when  dropped  from  tip 
of  spoon  forms  a  long  thread.  Pour  syrup  gradually  on  beaten 
whites  of  egg,  beating  constantly;  then  add  acid  and  continue 
beating.  When  stiff  enough  to  spread,  put  a  thin  coating  over 
cake.  Beat  remaining  frosting  until  cold  and  stiff  enough  to 
keep  in  shape  after  being  forced  through  a  pastry  tube.  After 
first  coating  on  cake  has  hardened,  cover  with  a  thicker  layer, 
and  crease  for  cutting.  If  frosting  is  too  stiff  to  spread 
smoothly,  thin  with  a  few  drops  of  water.  With  a  pastry  bag 
and  variety  of  tubes,  cake  may  be  ornamented  as  desired. 

Ornamental  Frosting.     (Another  Method.) 

Whites  of  six  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  con- 
fectioners' sugar,  sifted. 

Put  eggs  in  a  large  bowl,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  beat  three  minutes,  using  a  perforated  wooden  spoon.  Re- 
peat until  one  and  one-half  cups  of  sugar  are  used.  Add 
lemon  juice  gradually,  as  mixture  thickens.  Continue  adding 
sugar  by  spoonfuls,  and  beating  until  frosting  is  stiff  enough 
to  spread.  This  may  be  determined  by  taking  up  some  of 
mixture  on  back  of  spoon,  and  with  a  case  knife  making  a 
cut  through  mixture;  if  knife  makes  a  clean  cut  and  frosting 
remains  parted,  it  is  of  right  consistency.  Spread  cake  thinly 
with  frosting;  when  this  has  hardened,  put  on  a  thicker  layer, 
having  mixture  somewhat  stiffer  than  first  coating,  and  then 
crease  for  cutting.  To  remaining  frosting  add  enough  more 
sugar,  that  frosting  may  keep  in  shape  after  being  forced 
through  a  pastry  bag  and  tube. 

With  a  pa-stry  bag  and  variety  of  tubes,  cake  may  be  orna- 
mented as  desired. 

Almond  Paste. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  ounces  of  ground  almonds,  twelve 
ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  two  whites  of  eggs,  lemon  juice. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  sugar,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water 
and  two  teaspoon fuls  of  lemon  juice  into  a  stewpan,  bring  to 
the  boil,  skim  well,  and  boil  to  the  "ball  degree"  (237°  Fahr.). 
Pour  the  syrup  on  to  the  ground  almonds,  add  about  one  white 
of  egg,  mix  well  together,  and  use  as  required. 

Chocolate  Icing. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Six  ounces  of  chocolate,  one  pound  of  icing 
sugar,  one  gill  of  water. 

METHOD. —  Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  them 
into  a  small  stewpan  with  the  water,  and  stir  by  the  side  of 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  369 

the  fire  until  dissolved.     Add  the  icing  sugar,  stir   until  well 
mixed  and  smooth,  then  use  as  required. 

Coffee  Butter. 

INGREDIENTS. —  One-half  pound  of  fresh  butter,  one-half 
pound  of  castor  sugar,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  coffee  essence. 

METHOD. —  Cream  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  for  about  ten 
minutes,  add  coffee  essence  to  taste,  and  the  softened  butter 
gradually.  Work  until  thoroughly  mixed  and  smooth,  let  it 
remain  on  ice  until  firm,  stir  again,  then  use  for  decorating, 
by  means  of  a  paper  cornet,  or  bag  and  forcer. 

Coffee  Icing. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  icing  sugar  or  fine  castor 
sugar,  two  gills  of  cold  water,  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  coffee 
essence. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  stewpan,  stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  it  reaches  boiling-point,  and  simmer 
for  four  or  five  minutes.  Pour  the  syrup  into  a  bowl,  add  the 
coffee  essence,  and  stir  until  the  icing  becomes  less  transparent 
as  it  cools.  If  used  before  it  reaches  this  point  it  will  have  a 
dull  appearance. 

Transparent  Icing. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  one  gill  of  warm 
water. 

METHOD. —  Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  sugar  boiler  or 
stewpan,  let  it  dissolve,  then  bring  to  the  boil  and  simmer  for 
about  five  minutes,  or  until  a  thick  syrup  is  formed  (230° 
Fahr.  on  a  saccharometer).  Pour  into  a  bowl,  stir  until  al- 
most cold  and  setting,  then  use  as  required. 

Confectioners'  Custard. 

INGREDIENTS. —  Eight  yolks  of  eggs,  three  pints  of  milk, 
eight  ounces  of  castor  sugar,  one  ounce  of  cornstarch,  six  sheets 
of  French  gelatine,  flavoring  essence. 

METHOD. —  Mix  the  cornstarch  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
boil  the  remainder,  add  the  sugar  and  blended  cornstarch,  boil 
for  two  minutes,  then  pour  over  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stir- 
ring meanwhile.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  then  add  the  gelatine, 
previously  dissolved  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  the 
flavoring  essence,  and  use  as  required. 

Frangipan  Cream. 
INGREDIENTS. —  One  pound  of  fine  sifted  flour,  half  a  pound 


370  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

of  castor  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  eight  eggs,  two  pints 
of  milk,  flavoring  essence. 

METHOD. —  Put  eight  yolks  and  four  whites  of  eggs,  the 
flour,  sugar  and  two  little  pinches  of  salt  into  a  small  stewpan, 
stir  and  cook  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  well  mixed,  then  add 
the  milk  gradually.  When  perfectly  smooth,  stir  in  the  butter, 
cook  gently  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  turn  into  a  bowl,  flavor 
to  taste,  and  when  cool  use  as  required  for  filling  tartlets,  etc. 


STANDARD  COOKERY. 


371 


DISHES  MADE  WITH  CEREALS. 

TABLE  FOR  COOKING  CEREALS. 


Kind. 

Quantity. 

Water. 

Time. 

Steam-cooked  and 

rolled  oats  .    . 

Rolled  Avena     . 

Quaker  rolled  Oats, 

I  cup 

if  cups 

30  minutes 

H-0,  Old  Grist 

Mill     .     .     .     . 

Rolled  oats 

Steam-cooked  and 

rolled  wheats 

I  cup 

li  cups 

20  minutes 

Old    Grist   Mill     . 

Rye  flakes     .     .     . 

Pettijohn's,    etc.     . 

i  cup 

2f-3i  cups 

45-6o  minutes 

Rice  (steamed) 

(according  to 

age  of  rice) 

Indian    meal       .     . 

i  cup 

3i  cups 

3  hours 

Vitos      

I    CUD 

4i  cups 

30  minutes 

Wheatlet    .... 

•     v--  **¥ 

Wheatena  .... 
Wheat    germ      .     . 

i  cup 

3i  cups 

30  minutes 

Toasted  wheat  .     . 

Oatmeal  (coarse)  . 

i  cup 

4  cups 

3  hours 

Hominy    (fine) 

i  cup 

4  cups 

i  hour 

Oatmeal  Mush  with  Apples. 

Core  apples,  leaving  large  cavities;  pare,  and  cook  until 
soft  in  syrup  made  by  boiling  sugar  and  water  together,  al- 
lowing one  cup  of  sugar  to  one  and  one-half  cups  water.  Fill 
cavities  with  oatmeal  mush;  serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  The 
syrup  should  be  saved  and  re-used.  Berries,  sliced  bananas, 
or  sliced  peaches,  are  acceptably  served  with  any  breakfast 
cereal. 

Cereal  with  Fruit. 
Three-quarters  cup  of  wheat  germ,  three-quarters  cup  cold 


372  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

water,  two  cups  of  boiling  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
a  pound  of  dates,  stoned  and  cut  in  pieces. 

Mix  cereal,  salt  and  cold  water;  add  to  boiling  water  placed 
in  front  of  range.  Boil  five  minutes,  steam  in  double  boiler 
thirty  minutes,  stir  in  dates,  and  serve  with  cream.  Serve  for 
breakfast,  or  as  a  simple  dessert. 

Fried  Cornmeal  Mush,  or  Fried  Hominy. 

Pack  cornmeal  or  hominy  mush  in  greased,  one  pound  bak- 
ing-powder boxes,  or  small  bread-pan,  cool,  and  cover.  Cut  in 
thin  slices,  and  saute;  cook  slowly,  if  preferred  crisp  and  dry. 
Where  mushes  are  cooked  to  fry,  use  less  water  in  steaming. 

Macaroni  Pie  (Hot). 

Have  ready  some  cooked  macaroni,  and  place  a  layer  of  it 
in  a  greased  pie-dish.  Then  add  a  layer  of  cooked  tomato 
puree,  and  then  one  of  savory  rice,  adding  pepper  and  salt,  and 
moistening  well  with  milk  or  stock,  and  one  ounce  of  oiled 
butter.  Cover  with  pastry  or  with  mashed  potato,  and  bake 
until  the  pastry  is  cooked  or  the  potato  browned.  Grated 
cheese  may  be  added,  or  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Baked  Tomatoes  and  Macaroni. 

Cut  four  or  five  tomatoes  of  equal  size  into  halves,  and  place 
them  in  a  baking  tin  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each,  and 
dust  them  with  black  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Bake  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes.  Have  ready  six  ounces  of  macaroni,  boiled 
and  hot,  place  this  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  toma- 
toes inside  this,  and  pour  over  the  macaroni  a  rich  cheese 
sauce.  Serve  very  hot. 

Macaroni  with  Tomatoes. 

Remove  the  stalks  of  the  tomatoes,  cut  each  one  into  four 
pieces,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  water,  a 
bay-leaf,  and  a  sprig  of  basil,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt 
to  taste;  now  boil  till  thoroughly  done,  and  turn  out  on  to 
a  hair  sieve,  allowing  them  to  stand  for  a  minute  or  so  in  order 
that  all  the  water  may  drain  off,  which  throw  away;  then  pass 
the  tomatoes  through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  beat  up 
the  pulp  well  with  a  good  lump  of  butter,  then  dress  previously 
boiled  macaroni  with  this  and  plenty  of  grated  Parmesan  or 
any  good  strongly-flavored  cheese  which  will  grate  well. 

Macaroni  Cutlets. 

Four  ounces  of  macaroni,  four  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  one 
ounce  of  butter,  half  ounce  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  one 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  373 

teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  breadcrumbs,  one  egg,  cayenne 
and  salt.  Boil  the  macaroni,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  of  half  an 
inch  in  length.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour 
gradually,  stirring  until  there  are  no  lumps,  add  the  milk,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sauce  thickens.  Mix  the  macaroni, 
cheese,  mustard,  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  salt  to  taste,  with  the 
sauce,  then  turn  out  on  to  a  plate,  and  leave  until  cold.  Now 
shape  into  cutlets  or  small  rolls,  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  then  dip 
in  beaten  egg,  and  again  into  the  crumbs.  Fry  the  cutlets  in 
boiling  fat  until  they  are  a  golden  brown  color,  and  serve  with 
a  garnish  of  fried  parsley.  If  the  mixture  is  formed  into 
cutlet  shape,  place  a  small  piece  of  raw  macaroni  at  the  thin 
end  to  represent  bone. 

Buttered  Macaroni. 

Boil  two  ounces  of  macaroni  and  drain  it  well.  Put  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  thoroughly  warmed  pie-dish;  put  the 
macaroni  on  top  of  this,  and  mix  it  all  together,  at  the  same 
time  add  freshly-grated  cheese  and  a  few  dried  breadcrumbs. 
Place  in  the  oven  and  cook  until  a  golden  brown,  and  serve  in 
the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Macaroni  a  la  Napolitaine. 

Boil  three  ounces  of  macaroni  in  the  manner  previously 
described,  and  after  it  has  been  returned  to  the  dry  pan,  stir 
into  it  two  ounces  of  Parmesan  cheese,  finely  grated,  and  one 
ounce  of  butter.  The  cheese  should  be  stirred  in  half  at  a 
time,  and  well  shaken  amongst  the  macaroni.  Season  with 
black  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  at  once  very  hot. 

Macaroni  and  Spaghetti  (to  Boil). 

Macaroni  or  spaghetti  should  be  boiled  in  the  same  way  as 
rice,  namely  thrown  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  should  never, 
under  any  circumstances,  be  soaked  or  placed  in  cold  water 
previously.  They  should  be  tested  occasionally  with  a  fork, 
and  when  tender,  a  teacupful  of  cold  water  should  be  thrown 
into  the  pan  to  stop  the  boiling;  the  pan  should  then  be  lifted 
from  the  fire,  the  macaroni  or  spaghetti  drained  of  all  liquid, 
and  returned  to  the  hot  dry  pan,  and  kept  hot  until  wanted. 
Boiling  takes  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  The  following 
dishes  can  be  made  of  either  preparation: 
Boiled  Macaroni. 

Three-quarters  cup  of  macaroni  broken  in  inch  pieces,  half 
cup  of  cream,  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  one  tablespoonful 
of  salt. 


374  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Cook  macaroni  in  boiling  salted  water  twenty  minutes  or 
until  soft,  drain  in  strainer,  pour  over  it  cold  water  to  prevent 
pieces  from  adhering;  add  cream,  re-heat,  and  season  with 
salt. 

Macaroni  with  White  Sauce. 

Three-quarters  cup  of  macaroni  broken  in  inch  pieces,  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  and  a 
half  cups  of  white  sauce. 

Cook  as   for  boiled  macaroni   and  re-heat  in   white   sauce. 

To  MAKE  WHITE  SAUCE. —  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, add  two  tablespoonfuls  flour  with  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  pour  on  slowly  one  and  one-half  cups  of  scalded 
milk. 

Baked  Macaroni. 

Put  macaroni  with  white  sauce  in  buttered  baking-dish, 
cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  until  crumbs  are  brown. 

Baked  Macaroni  with  Cheese. 

Put  a  layer  of  boiled  macaroni  in  buttered  baking-dish, 
sprinkle  with  grated  cheese;  repeat  until  dish  is  nearly  full; 
pour  over  white  sauce,  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake 
until  crumbs  are  brown. 

Macaroni  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

Re-heat  boiled  macaroni  in  one  and  one-half  cups  of  tomato 
sauce,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  and  serve;  or  prepare  as 
baked  macaroni,  using  tomato  in  place  of  white  sauce. 

Macaroni  a  1'Italienne. 

Three-quarters  cup  of  macaroni,  two  quarts  of  boiling  salted 
water,  one-half  onion,  two  cloves,  one  and  a  half  cups  tomato 
sauce,  one-half  cup  grated  cheese,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  wine, 
one-half  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

Cook  macaroni  in  boiling  salted  water,  with  butter,  and 
onion  stuck  with  cloves;  drain,  remove,  re-heat  in  tomato 
sauce,  add  cheese  and  wine. 

Macaroni  Italian  Style.   (Another  Method.) 

One  cup  of  macaroni,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  scalded  milk, 
two-thirds  cup  of  grated  cheese,  salt  and  paprika,  one-quarter 
cup  of  finely-chopped  cold  boiled  ham. 

Break  macaroni  in  one-inch  pieces  and  cook  in  boiling  salted 
water,  drain,  and  re-heat  in  sauce  made  of  butter,  flour  and 
milk,  to  which  is  added  cheese.  As  soon  as  cheese  is  melted, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  375 

season  with  salt  and  paprika,  and  turn  on  to  a  serving  dish. 
Sprinkle  with  ham  and  garnish  with  parsley. 
Pontifical  Macaroni. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  any  kind  of  macaroni  or  spaghetti  and 
boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  After  draining,  line  a  well-buttered 
mold  with  macaroni  and  fill  in  the  center  with  a  mixture  of 
sliced  chicken  and  ham,  chopped  liver,  small  button  mushrooms, 
hard-boiled  eggs  sliced,  breadcrumbs  previously  moistened  with 
a  little  milk,  herbs  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Pour  over  the 
whole  a  cupful  of  good  chicken  broth,  and  bake  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Turn  out  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  any 
sauce  that  is  liked. 

To  Boil  Rice. 

Wash  the  rice  in  several  waters,  rubbing  it  well  between 
the  hands  to  remove  all  dirt.  Place  the  rice  in  a  pan  of  fast- 
boiling  water,  and  be  careful  to  choose  one  large  enough  for 
it,  remembering  that  rice  swells  considerably  in  the  cooking 
process.  One  to  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  rice  should  be  cooked 
in  a  quart  pan,  which  should  be  three  parts  full  of  water,  and 
have  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice 
in  it,  the  latter  to  preserve  the  whiteness  of  the  rice.  Stir 
occasionally.  Boil  the  rice  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  testing 
it  by  pressing  it  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  When  the 
grains  feel  soft,  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  at  once 
and  drain  off  the  water;  return  the  rice  to  the  pan  and  set  it 
on  the  corner  of  the  stove  to  dry,  shaking  it  occasionally. 
Some  grains  of  rice  will  always  stick  to  the  pan,  and  to  re- 
move these  put  a  small  pat  of  butter  in  the  pan,  and  as  this 
melts  the  grains  will  fall  away.  The  rice  will  take  about  ten 
minutes  to  dry,  and  should  never  be  served  until  the  moisture 
has  been  got  rid  of  and  the  grains  separated.  Carolina  rice 
swells  more  than  Patna,  and  so  requires  rather  more  water 
than  the  latter.  If  the  rice  is  boiled  too  slowly,  or  for  too 
long  a  time,  the  result  will  be  a  sticky  mass.  A  good  plan  is 
to  pour  in  a  pint  of  cold  water  when  the  rice  is  sufficiently 
cooked.  This  stops  the  boiling  at  once,  and  helps  to  separate 
the  grains;  if  put  close  to  the  stove  when  the  rice  is  first 
put  into  the  pan,  the  cook  will  be  able  to  throw  it  into  the  pan 
the  moment  the  rice  is  tender.  If  the  rice  is  to  be  served  in 
place  of  a  vegetable,  it  should  only  be  partly  cooked,  and  water 
all  drained  off,  and  then  half  a  pint  to  one  pint  of  stock  put 
into  the  pan.  This  should  be  simmered  until  quite  cooked,  and 
then  be  drained  and  served. 


376  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Plain  Rice  Pudding. 

No  eggs  or  milk  required.  Put  on  the  fire  twelve  pints  of 
water  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it,  when  boiling,  one  pound  of 
rice  (previously  washed),  or  sixteen  tablespoonfuls  (one  table- 
spoonful  equal  to  an  ounce),  four  ounces  of  brown  sugar 
(or  four  tablespoonfuls),  one  large  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the 
rind  of  a  lemon  thinly  peeled;  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour, 
strain  the  water  from  the  rice,  keeping  the  rice  rather  dry. 
The  rice  water  is  then  ready  for  drinking  either  warm  or  cold; 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  is  then  introduced  to  make  it  more  palata- 
ble and  refreshing.  Add  to  the  rice  three  ounces  of  sugar, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered cinnamon;  stir  on  the  fire  carefully  for  five  or  six  min- 
utes, put  it  in  a  tin  or  pie-dish  and  bake.  By  boiling  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  longer  the  rice  will  be  very  good  without 
baking.  This  will  produce  five  pounds  of  pudding,  and  six 
pints  of  most  wholesome  beverage.  The  lemon  and  cinnamon 
may  be  omitted  if  not  liked. 

Savory  Rice  Pudding.  (Hot.) 

Boil  three  ounces  of  rice  in  half  a  pint  of  milk,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt;  butter  a  pie-dish,  lay  in  a  layer  of  rice, 
sprinkle  this  with  one  ounce  of  grated  cheese,  add  the  rest  of 
the  rice,  sprinkle  with  another  ounce  of  cheese,  dot  some  small 
pieces  of  butter  all  over  the  top;  bake  in  a  quick  oven  till 
nicely  browned  on  the  top. 

Rice  and  Chicken  Andalusien. 

Mix  together  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  cooked  chicken 
cut  into  dice,  half  a  pound  of  boiled  rice,  onion,  parsley,  and 
seasoning  to  taste.  A  clove  of  garlic  may  be  added  or  omitted 
according  to  taste.  Mix  it  with  half  a  pint  of  warm  olive  oil 
or  melted  butter,  and  cook  in  a  covered  earthenware  pot  in 
the  oven,  or  in  an  enameled  saucepan,  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Stir  thoroughly  and  turn  out  on  a  dish.  The  surface 
may  be  browned  with  a  salamander  or  in  a  quick  oven. 
Squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  the  dish  before  serving. 

Carmelite  Rice. 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  salted  water  until  quite  tender. 
Let  it  drain  and  dry.  Now  add  the  flaked  meat  of  a  cured 
haddock  (which  has  previously  been  well  soaked),  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  herbs,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Mix 
thoroughly  with  the  rice  and  place  in  a  baking-dish  covered 
with  three  hard-boiled  eggs  finely  chopped.  Pour  over  this 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  377 

half  a  cupful  of  fish  stock  —  which  can  be  made  from  the  bones 
and  refuse  part  of  any  kind  of  fish  —  and  grate  breadcrumbs 
freely  over  the  whole.  Bake  for  half  an  hour,  and  garnish 
with  parsley  before  serving. 

Boiled  Rice. 

One  cup  of  rice,  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Pick  over  rice;  add  slowly  to  boiling,  salted  water,  so  as 
not  to  check  boiling  of  water.  Boil  thirty  minutes,  or  until 
soft,  which  may  be  determined  by  testing  kernels.  Old  rice 
absorbs  much  more  water  than  new  rice,  and  takes  longer  for 
cooking.  Drain  in  coarse  strainer,  and  pour  over  one  quart 
hot  water ;  return  to  kettle  in  which  it  was  cooked ;  cover,  place 
on  back  of  range,  and  let  stand  to  dry  off,  when  kernels  are 
distinct.  When  stirring  rice,  always  use  a  fork  to  avoid 
breaking  kernels. 

Steamed  Rice. 

One  cup  of  rice,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  and  ^three- 
quarters  to  three  and  a  quarter  cups  of  boiling  water  (ac- 
cording to  age  of  rice). 

Put  salt  and  water  in  top  of  double  boiler,  place  on  range, 
and  add  gradually  well-washed  rice,  stirring  with  a  fork  to 
prevent  adhering  to  boiler.  Boil  five  minutes,  cover,  place 
over  under-part  of  double  boiler,  and  steam  forty-five  minutes, 
or  until  kernels  are  soft;  uncover,  that  steam  may  escape. 
When  rice  is  steamed  for  a  simple  dessert,  use  one-half  quan- 
tity of  water  given  in  recipe,  and  steam  until  rice  has  absorbed 
water;  then  add  scalded  milk  for  remaining  liquid. 

Rice  With  Cheese. 

Steam  one  cup  of  rice,  allowing  one  tablespoonful  of  salt; 
cover  bottom  of  buttered  pudding-dish  with  rice,  dot  over  with 
three-fourths  tablespoonful  of  butter,  sprinkle  with  thin  shav- 
ings of  mild  cheese  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne;  repeat  until 
rice  and  one-fourth  pound  of  cheese  are  used.  Add  milk  to 
half  the  depth  of  contents  of  dish,  cover  with  buttered  cracker 
crumbs,  and  bake  until  cheese  melts. 

Rissoto  Creole. 

Three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  cup  of  rice,  two  and 
three-quarter  cups  of  highly-seasoned  brown  stock,  canned  pi- 
mentoes. 

Melt  butter  in  hot  fryingpan,  add   rice,  and  stir  constantly 


378  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

until  rice  is  well  browned.  Add  stock  heated  to  boiling-point, 
and  cook  in  double  boiler  until  soft.  Turn  on  a  serving  dish, 
garnish  with  pimentoes  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  and  cover  with 
CREOLE  SAUCE.  Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  chopped  onion,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  green  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  red  pepper,  or  canned  pimentoes,  and  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  five  minutes.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one 
cup  tomatoes,  one  truffle  thinly  sliced,  one-fourth  cup  sherry 
wine,  and  salt  to  taste. 

Fried  Rice. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  as  directed,  and  when  it  is  thor- 
oughly dried,  fry  it  in  one  ounce  of  butter  until  slightly 
browned.  Dust  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  piled  in  a  dish. 

Deviled  Rice. 

Proceed  as  for  fried  rice,  but  mix  in  a  pinch  of  curry  pow- 
der, which  has  been  baked  for  ten  minutes,  with  the  hot  liquid 
butter. 

Rice  a  1'Italienne. 

Boil  the  rice  as  usual,  and  to  four  ounces,  when  cooked  and 
drained,  stir  one  ounce  of  butter,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  stir  well,  mixing  thoroughly;  add  sufficient  tomato  sauce 
to  moisten  the  whole,  and  add  two  ounces  of  finely-grated 
cheese.  Mix  well,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Rice  Fritters. 

Take  some  rice  &  1'Italienne  when  cold.  Form  into  balls, 
dip  into  batter,  and  fry. 

Risotto  a  la  Milanaise. 

Fry  three  ounces  of  chopped  onion  in  two  ounces  of  butter 
or  clarified  dripping,  until  of  a  golden  brown  color,  then  add 
six  ounces  of  rice,  stir  without  stopping  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes, add  by  degrees  one  pint  of  stock,  stir  occasionally,  and 
simmer  gently  until  the  rice  is  just  soft,  add  a  very  small 
amount  of  grated  nutmeg  and  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  grated 
cheese  before  the  rice  is  cooked;  after  this,  stir  and  cook  for 
three  or  four  minutes  until  the  rice  is  quite  soft.  Take  off 
the  pan,  add  a  small  pat  of  butter,  stir  well,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Another  Risotto. 
Place  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pint  of  milk,  a  small  teacupful 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  379 

of  raw  rice,  four  small  Portugal  onions,  six  good-sized  to- 
matoes, both  finely  chopped,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  all 
together  until  soft,  stirring  occasionally,  adding  more  milk  if 
necessary,  and  just  before  serving  stir  in  one  ounce  of  finely- 
grated  cheese. 

Risotto  made  with  Stock. 

Chop  half  an  onion  very  finely,  and  fry  it  in  half  an  ounce 
of  butter.  Place  four  ounces  of  rice  in  a  saucepan  with  half 
a  pint  of  stock,  add  the  onion,  and  cook  until  the  stock  is  ab- 
sorbed. Stir  in  one  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Make  very  hot  and  serve. 

Stewed  Rice  and  Cabbage  made  with  Stock. 
Boil  in  the  ordinary  way,  separately,  equal  quantities  of  rice 
and  cabbage.  The  latter  cut  into  small  pieces  before  they  are 
quite  cooked,  remove  them  from  their  respective  pans,  and 
place  them  together  in  a  stewpan  with  just  as  much  stock  as 
will  cover  them;  simmer  until  quite  cooked  (for  about  five  min- 
utes), and  serve  with  a  covering  of  grated  cheese. 

Rice  Cakes. 

Boil  four  ounces  of  rice  in  stock,  taking  care  to  let  it  ab- 
sorb as  much  liquid  as  possible;  to  this  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  finely-grated  cheese,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  ounce  of  finely-grated  brown  breadcrumbs.  One  table- 
spoonful  of  tomato  sauce,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste;  bind  all  the 
ingredients  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mixing  thoroughly,  form 
into  cakes,  brush  over  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  a  golden  brown.  Omit  the  cheese  when  va- 
iety  is  required. 

Rice  and  Cheese  Croquettes.  (Eustace  Miles  Recipe.) 
Mix  four  ounces  of  cooked  rice,  about  three  ounces  of  bread- 
crumbs, four  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  one  egg,  one  ounce  of 
proteid  food,  a  little  celery  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  nutril, 
one  dessertspoonful  of  tomato  sauce.  Mix  all  the  ingredients 
together,  form  into  croquettes,  egg  and  crumb,  and  fry.  The 
rice  must  be  thoroughly  drained,  and  the  exact  quantity  of 
breadcrumbs  depends  upon  the  dryness  of  the  rice. 

Rice   and  Tomato   Kedgeree. 

To  four  ounces  of  boiled  rice  take  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot  and  sufficiently  dry.  Serve  in 
a  hot  fireproof  dish,  with  grated  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg 
scattered  over. 


380  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Kedgeree   Custard. 

Well  mix  one  gill  of  cream  with  a  fresh  egg,  add  pepper  and 
salt,  and  mix  in  four  ounces  of  boiled  rice,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  the  rice  absorbs  the  mixture. 

Pilaff  of  Rice. 

Wash,  boil  for  five  minutes,  and  drain  four  ounces  of  rice. 
Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per, stir  well  and  add  little  by  little  one-third  of  a  pint  of  veg- 
etable stock.  Cook  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  The  rice  should 
absorb  the  stock,  and  though  soft,  the  grains  should  be  separ- 
ate. More  stock  should  be  added  if  necessary.  Serve  very 
hot. 

This  dish  is  delicious  if  served  with  a  center  of  stewed  mush- 
rooms or  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs  in  a  delicate  onion  sauce. 

Timbal  of  Rice  with  Buttered  Eggs. 

Wash  well  four  ounces  of  rice,  and  cook  it  in  as  much 
vegetable  stock  as  it  will  absorb,  with  two  ounces  of  butter. 
Add  more  stock  if  necessary.  Keep  the  pan  covered,  and  cook 
gently.  When  done,  the  rice  must  be  soft,  but  the  grains  sep- 
arate. Then  pound  it  to  a  paste  and  mix  in  the  yolk  of  one 
or  two  eggs,  according  to  the  richness  required.  When  cool, 
press  the  rice  into  a  border  mold  which  has  been  thoroughly 
well-buttered,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  golden  brown 
and  sufficiently  firm  to  turn  out. 

Serve  with  a  center  of  buttered  egg,  and  stewed  tomatoes 
or  mushrooms,  curried  vegetable,  or  onion  puree. 

Cassolettes  of  Rice. 

Proceed  as  before,  but  press  the  rice  into  small  molds,  and 
when  done  hollow  out  and  fill  with  some  of  the  rice  mixed  with 
a  thick  curry  gravy  or  tomato  puree  or  cheese  sauce.  Put 
back  the  piece  of  browned  rice  at  the  bottom,  replace  in  the 
oven  for  a  minute  or  two;  turn  out,  serve  very  hot. 

Semolina   Cakes. 

Boil  one  pint  of  milk  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
a  little  salt.  When  boiling,  drop  into  it  by  degrees  four  ounces 
of  semolina,  and  stir  it  until  it  thickens  like  custard,  which 
takes  about  fifteen  minutes.  Add  one  ounce  of  grated  cheese 
and  a  little  white  pepper.  Spread  the  mixture  out  on  a  floured 
board,  when  cold  it  will  be  solid  enough  to  form  into  cakes. 
Egg  and  crumb  the  cakes  and  fry  a  golden  brown,  or  dip  in 
batter  and  fry. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  '381 

Gnocci. 

Bring  one  pint  of  water  to  the  boil  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  some  salt;  drop  four  ounces  of  semolina  by  de- 
grees, and  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens.  This  will  take 
about  one-quarter  of  an  hour.  Add  one  ounce  of  grated 
cheese,  and  leave  it  until  it  becomes  cold;  butter  a  fireproof 
dish  and  sprinkle  it  with  cheese  and  put  a  tablespoonful  of  the 
semolina  mixture  all  over  it.  They  should  stand  up  roughly 
like  rock  cakes;  add  a  few  little  bits  of  butter,  and  bake  to  a 
golden  brown  in  a  fairly  hot  oven,  which  will  take  about  twenty 
minutes. 

Savory  Semolina  Pudding. 

Proceed  as  for  semolina  cakes,  but  place  in  a  greased  pie 
dish,  sprinkled  with  butter  and  grated  cheese  and  bake  until 
the  top  is  a  golden  brown. 

For  a  variety  add  a  little  tomato  sauce  to  the  mixture. 

Spaghetti  a  1'Indienne. 

Make  a  curry  sauce  by  slicing  two  small  onions  and  frying 
them  in  butter  until  a  light  brown,  add  to  them  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  curry  powder  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  or 
rather  less  of  vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of 
salt,  and  two  raw  apples,  chopped  very  finely;  stir  in  one  and 
a  half  pints  of  water,  and  simmer  until  the  ingredients  have 
become  a  pulp.  Place  half  a  pound  of  spaghetti  in  boiling 
water,  and  when  partly  cooked  remove  it;  drain,  and  finish 
cooking  it  in  the  sauce.  Serve  very  hot. 

Spaghetti  Pudding. 

Cook  four  ounces  of  spaghetti  as  previously  directed,  drain 
it,  and  place  half  of  it  in  a  pie-dish,  grate  two  ounces  of  Par- 
mesan cheese  and  sprinkle  some  of  it  over  the  spaghetti ;  slice 
four  or  five  small  tomatoes  and  place  them  on  the  bed  of 
spaghetti,  sprinkling  them  with  cheese,  pepper  and  salt,  and 
finish  with  the  remainder  of  the  spaghetti,  with  the  rest  of  the 
cheese  on  the  top.  Pour  carefully  over  this  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  cover  the  dish  with  a  plate  or  small  dish;  cook  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  A  fireproof  dish  with  a  well-fitting  cover  would  be 
useful  for  this  dish,  but  if  not  procurable,  a  pie-dish  can  quite 
well  be  used. 

Vermicelli 

Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  add  to  it  five  ounces  of  sugar. 
When  this  boils,  add  six  ounces  of  vermicelli  mashed  up. 


382  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

When  that  has  cooked  for  fifteen  minutes,  add  one  ounce  of 
butter,  little  flavoring  of  lemon,  and  two  eggs,  yolks  and  whites, 
and  not  let  it  boil  any  longer.  Then  butter  a  mold  well,  and 
put  it  in  and  bake  it  in  the  oven  slowly  and  serve  this  with 
cream  sauce  vanilla,  which  is  composed  of  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
three  yolks  of  eggs,  one  ounce  of  sugar.  Boil  and  pass 
through  strainer  and  serve  with  a  little  on  the  top  and  some 
in  a  sauce-boat. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  383 


SPECIAL  TASTY  DISHES   FOR  BREAK- 
FAST, SUPPER  OR  HIGH  TEA. 

SANDWICHES. 

In  making  a  large  quantity,  a  stale  quartern  loaf  should  be 
taken  and  trimmed  free  from  all  crust,  and  cut  into  slices 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  slightly  buttered,  and  then 
thin  slices  of  meat,  nicely  trimmed,  may  be  laid  on  and  covered 
with  another  slice  of  bread,  and  then  cut  into  eight  parts ;  should 
they  be  cut  some  time  before  they  are  wanted,  they  ought  to 
be  put  one  over  the  other,  as  they  thus  keep  moist;  a  little 
mustard  and  salt  may  be  added  to  the  meat,  if  preferred. 
Some  thin  slices  of  gherkin  may  be  added  to  the  meat,  and  the 
same  plan  can  be  adopted  with  pickled  fish,  brawn  or  sausages. 
The  following  varies  the  common  mode  of  making  sandwiches: 

Cheese  Sandwiches. 

Take  a  small  quantity  of  very  fresh  cream  cheese,  put  it 
into  a  bowl  or  a  marble  mortar,  add  some  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  mustard,  beat  it  well  up  until  it  is  of  the  same  con- 
sistency as  butter;  if  too  hard,  add  a  little  of  the  latter,  and 
use  it  as  butter  on  the  bread,  with  slices  of  meat  between. 

Salad  Sandwiches. 

Cover  the  bread  as  before,  and  have  ready  some  mustard 
and  cress  and  water-cresses,  well  washed  and  dried;  put  into 
a  bowl  with  mayonnaise  sauce,  and  when  ready  to  serve  place 
it  neatly  between  the  bread. 

Spiced  Gammon  of  Bacon. 

Get  about  four  pounds  of  gammon  of  bacon  (it  is  not  nec- 
essary that  the  bacon  should  be  gammon,  provided  it  is  lean), 
and  boil  it  with  two  onions  stuck  with  three  cloves  each,  one 
carrot,  one  turnip,  a  blade  of  mace,  eighteen  peppers,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  tied  in  muslin.  When  the  bacon 
is  cold,  cover  the  top  with  raspings,  and  serve  it  with  a  salad 
composed  of  tomatoes  and  celery. 

The  vegetable  should  be  blanched  for  a  few  minutes  previous 
to  being  placed  in  the  pot  with  the  bacon. 


384  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Bacon  Fritters. 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  roll  them  neatly,  secure 
the  roll  with  thread  and  parboil  them,  and  allow  to  cool.  Make 
a  batter  as  follows:  —  To  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water 
add  a  dessertspoonful  of  oil,  then  gradually  stir  in  four  ounces 
of  flour  and  a  little  salt,  and  set  aside  for  at  least  an  hour 
before  using;  just  before  the  batter  is  required  add  a  pinch  of 
baking-powder  and  the  white  of  an  egg,  whisked  to  a  very  stiff 
froth.  Dip  the  rolls  of  bacon  (having  removed  the  thread) 
into  the  batter  and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  on  a  very  hot 
dish. 

Corned  Beef  Salad. 

Shred  finely  two  lettuces  into  a  bowl  and  incorporate  a 
dressing  made  by  mixing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  and 
one  of  vinegar,  a  dessertspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt  and  a  saltspoonful  of  dissolved  mustard. 
Take  a  salad  bowl,  arrange  a  layer  of  sliced  cooked  potatoes 
at  the  bottom,  followed  by  a  layer  of  thinly-sliced  corned  beef; 
cover  the  meat  with  dressed  lettuce,  and  scatter  some  coarsely- 
chopped  beetroot  over  the  top;  then  put  a  second  layer  of  po- 
tatoes, beef  and  lettuce,  and  garnish  with  beetroot  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  into  slices. 

Beef  and  Ham  Pastie. 

Cut  some  lean  steak  into  small  pieces  (about  an  inch  square) 
and  fry,  together  with  a  minced  onion  and  some  chopped  pars- 
ley for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  little  dripping;  turn  the  meat 
constantly  so  that  it  may  not  burn.  Then  pour  in  a  small 
quantity  of  stock,  cover  the  pan  and  let  the  meat  simmer  very 
gently  for  an  hour,  after  which  put  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Make 
a  short  paste  and  roll  it  out  to  a  medium  thickness,  and  cut 
it  into  a  round  the  size  of  a  meat  plate ;  put  the  cooked  beef  on 
one-half  of  the  paste,  and  fill  in  the  spaces  between  the  meat 
with  coarsely-chopped  ham  (or  lean  bacon),  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  then  fold  over  the  paste, 
moisten  the  edges  and  press  them  together.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven,  and  when  nearly  done  brush  it  over  with  some  white  of 
egg.  May  be  served  hot  or  cold. 

Haricot  Bean  Salad. 

Boil  some  white  haricot  beans,  which  have  been  previously 
soaked  until  they  are  tender;  allow  to  cool,  remove  the  skins, 
and  dress  with   a   sauce  made   as   directed  below.     Hard  boil 
as  many  eggs  as  are  required,  cut  them  in  half  and  carefully 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  385 

remove  the  yolks,  which  pound  with  a  little  butter;  add  a  small 
quantity  of  anchovy  sauce,  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
and  salt,  and  cayenne,  then  fill  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  the 
mixture.  Place  the  dressed  beans  in  the  middle  of  the  dish, 
heaping  them  up  into  a  neat  mold,  arrange  the  eggs  round  the 
base,  and  beyond  the  eggs  make  a  border  with  some  shredded 
lettuce.  For  the  sauce,  put  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg  into  a  bowl 
with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  very  little  dissolved  mus- 
tard; stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  salad  oil,  drop  by 
drop;  when  incorporated,  whisk  briskly  until  the  mixture  is  as 
thick  as  double  cream,  then  gradually  stir  in  a  dessertspoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar  and  a  few  drops  of  white  vinegar.  Add  a 
few  chopped  capers  to  the  sauce  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Molded  Haricot  Beans. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  well-cooked  white  haricot  beans,  which 
have  been  boiled  with  a  small  onion,  a  turnip,  and  a  carrot 
previously  blanched;  drain  them,  and  pass  them,  together  with 
the  vegetables,  through  a  sieve.  Stir  into  this  mixture  two 
ounces  of  melted  beef  dripping  (or  butter),  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  press  into  a  buttered  mold;  cover  the 
top  with  greased  paper,  and  steam  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Let  the  mold  stand  for  a  few  moments  on  being  taken 
from  the  steamer,  then  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  surround 
with  small  portions  of  cooked  bacon. 

Beef  Sandwiches  in  Jelly 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  cold  salt  beef,  and  with  cutter-shapes 
stamp  them  into  circles;  make  a  paste  by  pounding  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs  with  a  small  quantity  of  to- 
mato catsup.  Spread  a  layer  of  the  paste  in  the  center  of  the 
rounds  of  meat,  and  place  other  pieces  on  the  top,  pressing 
them  down  well.  Put  the  meat  into  a  deep  dish  and  cover 
with  savory  jelly  which  is  cool  but  not  set.  When  the  jelly 
is  quite  firm,  cut  out  the  rounds  of  beef  and  serve  them  with 
finely-shred  dressed  lettuce  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and 
garnish  with  the  white  of  the  eggs  cut  into  small  pieces.  The 
trimmings  from  the  beef  can  be  finely  minced  and  seasoned, 
and  when  heated  with  a  little  butter  and  served  on  hot  buttered 
toast,  make  an  excellent  breakfast  dish. 

Curry  Scallops. 

Fry  half  a  sliced  onion  in  an  ounce  of  clarified  dripping  until 
it  is  lightly  browned,  then  add  a  large  teaspoonful  of  curry 
powder  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer.  Have  ready  three- 


386  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

quarters  of  a  pint  of  thick  melted  butter  sauce;  stir  this  into 
the  pan  containing  the  onion  and  curry  powder,  and  let  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes;  then  strain  it  and  add  two  whiting  which 
have  been  baked  for  ten  minutes  between  buttered  plates  and 
then  divided  into  flakes.  Butter  some  china  scallop  shells,  fill 
them  with  breadcrumbs;  pour  a  little  warm  butter  over  them 
and  put  the  scallops  into  a  quick  oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Fish  in  Bread  Cases. 

Stamp  out  some  rounds  with  a  cutter  from  some  slices  of 
bread,  and  with  a  small  cutter  make  a  little  hollow  in  the  mid- 
dle of  each.  Dip  the  rounds  of  bread  quidkly  into  milk,  then 
dust  them  lightly  with  flour,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg, 
and  cover  quickly  with  fine  dry  breadcrumbs.  Have  ready  a 
bath  of  boiling  fat,  fry  the  cases  in  it  until  they  are  a  golden 
brown,  and  let  them  drain  on  a  paper  in  front  of  the  fire. 
When  all  are  ready  fill  the  centers  with  a  fricassee  of  fish 
made  as  under,  and  serve  at  once.  Make  half  a  pint  of  creamy 
melted  butter,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  a  dust  of  curry  powder  (or 
cayenne).  Divide  a  medium-sized  cooked  whiting  into  flakes, 
carefully  removing  the  skin  and  bones;  make  hot  in  the  sauce, 
but  take  care  that  the  latter  does  not  boil  after  the  lemon  juice 
has  been  added,  otherwise  it  will  curdle. 

Fish  with  Macaroni  and  Tomatoes. 

Take  a  cooked  whiting  and  divide  into  flakes,  heat  in  a 
saucepan  with  melted  butter  sauce.  Put  a  large  tablespoonful 
of  finely-minced  onion  into  a  frying-pan  with  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, and  cook  gently  for  eight  minutes,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  acquire  more  than  a  pale  golden  brown ;  then  add  a  few  to- 
matoes which  have  been  sliced  (rather  thickly),  and  cut  into 
small  pieces;  season  with  pepper  and  celery  salt,  and  directly 
the  tomatoes  begin  to  get  tender,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  remove  from  the  stove.  Add  the  mixture 
to  the  hot  fish,  and  mix  altogether.  Have  ready  some  well- 
boiled  macaroni,  which  has  been  cut  into  pieces  of  about  an 
inch  in  length;  add  a  small  piece  of  butter  to  it,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper;  put  a  layer  of  the  macaroni  on  a  hot 
dish,  then  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  the  fish,  and  so  on  alternately 
until  you  have  a  good  pile.  Scatter  browned  breadcrumbs 
over  the  top  and  sides  of  the  heap,  and  after  placing  the  dish 
in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  serve  quickly. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  387 

Fish  Rissolettes. 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  some  cooked  whiting  and 
divide  into  flakes;  then  mix  it  with  some  finely-mashed  potato 
—  two-thirds  of  fish  to  one  of  potato  —  and  make  into  a 
fairly  stiff  paste  by  adding  some  thick  white  sauce,  which 
should  be  hot,  and  after  seasoning  it  with  salt,  curry  powder, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  spread  it  out  on  a  large  plate  for  a  short 
time.  Take  up  a  dessertspoonful  at  a  time,  and,  with  the 
hands  well  floured,  form  it  into  little  balls.  Have  ready  on  the 
pastry  board  some  rounds  of  nice  light  paste  which  has  been 
rolled  out  rather  thin;  envelop  the  fish  balls  in  the  paste  and 
moisten  the  edges  to  make  them  adhere.  Dip  the  rissolettes 
into  beaten  egg,  then  cover  them  with  dry  breadcrumbs,  and 
fry  in  plenty  of  boiling  fat.  Allow  to  drain  on  paper,  and 
serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Minced  Galantine. 

Take  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  salt  boiled  beef,  from 
which  fat  and  gristle  have  been  removed,  and  pass  through  a 
meat  chopper;  then  mix  with  it  breadcrumbs,  chopped  pars- 
ley, lemon  peel  (grated),  chopped  onion,  and  a  very  little  salt, 
some  black  pepper,  spice,  and  a  dust  of  nutmeg.  Moisten  the 
mince  with  two  raw  eggs,  and  roll  it  into  an  oblong  shape  on  a 
floured  board,  and  wrap  it  up  tightly  in  a  buttered  cloth,  which 
must  be  sewn  in  the  middle  and  tied  at  each  end.  Place  the 
galantine  in  a  large  stewpan  and  cover  with  boiling  water; 
add  a  sliced  onion  and  carrot,  previously  blanched,  and  simmer 
gently  for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  remove  the 
galantine,  and  press  it  between  two  flat  dishes  with  a  medium 
weight  on  top,  and  leave  until  the  following  day.  Now  take 
off  the  cloth,  wipe  the  meat  and  cover  it  evenly  with  glaze  and 
place  aside  until  the  latter  is  set,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 
For  the  glaze :  soak  four  sheets  of  gelatine  in  a  little  cold  water 
until  softened,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  "blackjack,"  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
water;  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  melted,  but  not  boiling,  and  use 
while  warm. 

Ham  and  Rice  Patties. 

Mix  some  potted  ham  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  and 
sufficient  milk  to  make  a  soft  paste;  season  with  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  add  a  small  quantity  of  boiled  rice,  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Warm  some  little  pattie 
cases,  and  fill  with  the  mixture;  put  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and 


388  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

when  thoroughly  hot,  serve  on  a  folded  d'oyley,  garnished  with 
parsley. 

Scalloped  Kippered  Herrings. 

Divide  into  fillets  some  kippered  herrings  which  have  been 
soaked  in  milk,  place  in  a  hot  frying-pan  containing  a  small 
quantity  of  melted  butter  and  cook  until  they  are  just  tender. 
Now  take  out  the  fillets  and  cover  them  thickly  with  grated 
cheese,  which  has  been  mixed  with  dry  breadcrumbs.  Butter 
a  small  pie-dish,  place  the  fillets  therein,  sprinkle  with  browned 
breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  pieces  of  butter  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Stuffed  Lettuce. 

Wash  a  lettuce,  trim  off  the  outside  leaves,  tie  with  tape  and 
blanch  for  a  few  minutes  in  boiling  water,  and  allow  to  drain. 
When  cool,  split  each  with  a  sharp  knife  down  one  side,  care- 
fully remove  a  small  portion  of  the  heart,  and  proceed  to  stuff 
them  with  a  savory  mince  made  as  for  rissoles,  and  bound  with 
an  egg.  Then  bring  the  severed  edges  of  the  leaves  together 
so  that  the  lettuces  assume  their  former  shape,  tie  them  up 
again,  and  braise  very  gently  with  soup,  vegetables  and  good 
stock  for  an  hour,  and  serve  with  the  stock  thickened  and 
poured  over  them. 

Macaroni  Cutlets. 

Boil  four  ounces  of  macaroni  until  quite  tender,  drain  well 
and  allow  to  cool.  Then  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  mix  with 
about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  stiff  white  sauce,  which  has  been 
flavored  with  a  piece  of  onion,  a  small  blade  of  mace,  and  salt 
and  pepper.  Add  a  dessertspoonful  of  lean  bacon  (finely 
minced),  and  half  a  beaten  egg,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  a 
plate.  When  it  is  cold,  take  up  a  small  portion  at  a  time  and 
form  it  on  a  floured  board  into  the  shape  of  small  cutlets.  Dip 
them  into  beaten  egg,  cover  with  fine  breadcrumbs  and  fry 
them  until  lightly  browned  all  over.  Serve  very  hot. 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 

BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

The  following  breakfast  dishes  will  form  a  pleasant  varia- 
tion in  the  ordinary  bill  of  fare  for  the  morning  meal. 

CEufs  Aux  Tomates. 
Butter  a  bag  thickly.     Put  into  it  half  a  pint  of  thick  tomato 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  389 

catsup  and  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Cook  in  a 
hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Cut  a  square  from  the  center  of 
the  bag  and  break  in,  one  by  one,  four  eggs.  Cook  for  three 
to  four  minutes.  Dish  up.  Cut  away  the  top  of  the  bag  only 
and  serve  at  once.  (350°  Fahr.). 

OEufs  a  la  Bechamel. 

Boil  four  eggs  hard.  Throw  them  into  cold  water.  Shell 
them,  cut  each  in  halves.  Grease  a  bag  thickly.  Put  in  the 
eggs.  Add  a  little  cream,  pepper,  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a  tiny 
dust  of  powdered  mace.  Make  hot  gently  for  five  minutes,  and 
serve  on  squares  of  lightly  buttered  toast. 

Merluche  Fume  a  la  Milanaise. 

Take  a  pound  of  filleted  dried  haddock.  Dust  lightly  with 
black  pepper.  Grease  a  bag.  Put  in  the  fillets  of  haddock. 
Pour  over  them  the  contents  of  half  a  bottle  of  tomato  castup. 
Cook  for  eighteen  minutes;  dish  upon  a  very  hot  dish,  and 
serve  with  plenty  of  well  buttered  toast  handed  separately. 

Kippered  Mackerel  Fines  Herbes. 

Place  the  fillets  of  mackerel  in  a  deep,  clean  dish.  Just 
cover  them  with  boiling  water.  Leave  for  an  instant.  Take 
out  and  dry.  Dust  well  with  coarse  black  pepper  and  put  on 
top  of  each  fillet  half  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  chives  and  pars- 
ley (or  finely-minced  onion  failing  chives),  and  a  bit  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  small  walnut.  Grease  a  bag,  put  in  the  fillets,  and 
cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  (350°  Fahr.).  Take 
out  and  serve  with  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Marechale  de  Homard  Aux  CEufs. 

When  lobsters  are  plentiful  they  are  often  to  be  had  as 
cheaply  as  sixpence  and  ninepence  each,  so  that  this  dish  is  not 
really  as  extravagant  as  it  sounds.  Take  the  white  and  claw 
meat  of  the  lobster.  Chop  it  up  small  and  reserve  it.  Take 
the  brown  meat  and  rub  it  till  quite  smooth  in  a  bowl  with  a 
bit  of  butter  and  a  good  dust  of  white  pepper.  Then  add  by 
degrees  the  contents  of  half  a  bottle  of  tomato  catsup.  Work 
the  whole  well  together.  Put  into  a  bag  four  rashers  of  bacon. 
Cook  for  four  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  rashers  and  re- 
serve them  on  a  hot  dish.  Put  in  the  lobster  and  tomato  mix- 
ture and  cook  for  eight  minutes.  Now  cut  open  the  bag,  put 
in  the  white  meat,  and  make  hot  for  another  four  or  five  min- 
utes. Be  careful  to  lower  the  gas  for  this,  as  the  white  meat 
of  the  lobster  must  not  get  very  hot.  It  must  not  actually  cook, 


390  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

or  it  will  toughen  and  be  spoilt.  Empty  out  carefully  into  a 
very  hot  dish.  Garnish  with  the  rashers  of  bacon  and  serve 
at  once.  (300°  Fahr.) 

Marechale  of  Crab 

is  prepared  in  exactly  the  same  way,  but  as  crabs  run  larger, 
from  six  to  seven  rashers  of  bacon  may  be  used  instead  of 
four.     Fried  bread  should  garnish  both  these  dishes. 
Croutes  Strasbourg  Aux  CEufs. 

Butter  a  bag.  Cut  four  squares  of  stale  bread,  all  of  a  size. 
Free  them  from  crust.  Butter  them  thinly  and  dust  lightly 
with  pepper.  Spread  a  layer  of  foie-gras  on  each.  Put  in  the 
bag  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes.  Then  cut  open  the 
bag,  and  break  an  egg  on  top  of  each  square  of  bread.  Dust 
the  top  of  the  egg  with  pepper  and  a  very  little  salt  and  cook 
for  another  four  minutes.  Take  out,  dish  up  on  a  very  hot 
dish,  and  serve.  (300°  Fahr.) 

CEufs  a  la  Tripe. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  made  with  an  ounce  of 
flour,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  flavored 
with  a  little  mace.  Add  to  it  two  large  thinly-sliced  onions 
cooked  in  a  little  butter  in  a  bag,  and  from  four  to  six  halved 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Pour  gently  into  a  well-greased  double  bag 
and  make  very  hot  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Dish  up  on  a 
hot  dish  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible.  (350°  Fahr.) 
Stuffante  a  la  Milanaise. 

Cut  a  round  from  the  top  of  six  tomatoes,  scoop  out  the 
seeds,  dust  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  a  bit  of  butter 
in  each  tomato,  fill  with  finely-minced  cold  veal  and  bacon 
or  mutton  or  beef  and  bacon.  Sprinkle  fried  breadcrumbs  on 
top,  grease  a  bag  well,  put  in  the  tomatoes  and  cook  in  a  fairly 
quick  oven  for  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Dish  up  on  a 
very  hot  dish  and  serve.  (350°  Fahr.) 
Riz  a  la  Strasbourg. 

Take  four  ounces  of  freshly-boiled  rice,  mix  with  it  the  con- 
tents of  a  jar  of  Strasbourg  paste  (not  the  fat,  only  the  pate) 
and  work  up  lightly  but  thoroughly  with  a  fork.  Butter  a  bag 
thickly  and  put  in  the  mixture;  cook  for  ten  minutes  in  a  very 
hot  oven,  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  a  little 
grated  yolk  of  freshly-boiled  (hard)  egg  and  serve  at  once. 
(350°  Fahr.) 

Riz  Aux  Crevettes. 

Take  four  ounces  of  boiled  rice.    Add  to  it  pepper  and  salt 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  391 

to  taste,  a  lump  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  big  Brazil  nut, 
and  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  finely-grated  cheese.  Put  this 
mixture  into  a  well-greased  bag,  and  make  very  hot  for  six 
minutes.  Then  open  the  bag  and  stir  in  gently  two  dozen 
picked  shrimps.  Mix  in  lightly  with  a  fork.  Replace  the  bag 
on  the  grid,  and  make  hot  for  another  three  minutes.  Dish  up 
and  serve.  (350°  Fahr.). 

Kippers  and  Bloaters  Aux  Fines  Herbes. 

Few  people  know  how  very  nice  the  English  smoked  and 
dried  fish  can  be  when  cooked  in  a  paper-bag  and  seasoned  in 
the  French  fashion.  Take  four  soft-roed  bloaters,  bone  them, 
fill  the  cavities  with  a  little  (about  half  a  teaspoonful  to  each 
bloater)  finely-minced  shallot  or  chives  and  parsley.  Add  a 
few  fresh  breadcrumbs  and  tiny  bits  of  butter.  If  liked,  a 
tiny  grate  of  nutmeg  may  be  added  as  well  as  a  good  dust  of 
pepper.  Put  into  a  well-greased  bag,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for 
ten  minutes.  Dish  up  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Kippers 
are  excellent,  and  are  prepared  in  the  same  way,  minus  the 
boning  process.  (350°  Fahr.). 

Jambon  Milanaise. 

Take  some  six  slices  of  either  raw  ham  or  back  bacon, 
machine  cut  if  possible,  take  also  half  a  pint  of  cold  boiled 
peas,  and,  if  to  hand,  half  a  dozen  cold  boiled  new  potatoes. 
Put  the  rashers  into  the  bag  and  cook  them.  Then  take  out 
and  add  the  peas  and  the  potatoes,  the  latter  first  thinly  sliced, 
and  cook  in  the  ham  fat  till  very  hot.  Empty  out  gently  on 
to  a  hot  dish  and  pour  over  the  peas  half  a  pint  of  very  hot 
well-seasoned  tomato  pulp  or  tomato  catsup,  whichever  is  pre- 
ferred. The  peas  and  potatoes  should  be  arranged  as  a  border 
with  the  rashers  in  the  middle.  When  they  can  be  had,  half  a 
dozen  chicken  livers  are  a  great  improvement  to  this  dish. 
Filleted  Soles  Fines  Herbes. 

Take  four  or  six  fillets  of  sole  or  lemon  soles,  dust  lightly 
with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  sprinkle  also  lightly  with 
finely-minced  parsley,  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  very  little 
minced  shallot.  Add  the  tiniest  possible  squeeze  of  strained 
lemon  juice.  Put  a  bit  of  butter  on  each  fillet  and  slip  them 
gently  into  a  well-greased  bag,  add  quarter  of  a  glass  of  sherry. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes. 
(300°  Fahr.)  Cut  open  the  bag  very  carefully  with  a  pair  of 
clean  scissors,  and  slip  the  fish  and  the  sauce  which  will  have 
formed  during  cooking  on  to  a  very  hot  dish.  Send  to  table  at 
once. 


392  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


VARIOUS  COLORINGS  ESSENCES, 
FLAVORINGS,  ETC. 

Burnt  Sugar,  called  Black  Jack,  Otherwise  Essence  Parisian. 

Take  a  pound  of  any  kind  of  sugar,  moisten  with  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  place  in  a  copper  sugar  boiler 
made  of  pure  copper,  not  tin.  This  vessel  must  not  be  tin, 
as  the  tin  would  run  out.  Let  the  mixture  burn  slowly,  until 
it  is  perfectly  black,  which  will  be  apparent  by  a  blue  smoke 
coming  from  it.  Now  quickly  take  your  sugar  boiler  from  the 
fire,  and  add  one  quart  of  water,  and  let  the  sugar  stand  at 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  gently  until  it  is  perfectly  melted, 
then  pass  it  through  a  piece  of  muslin,  and  when  cold,  bottle 
up.  This  is  not  much  trouble,  and  is  the  only  way  to  make 
Black-jack  coloring  for  stew,  jellies,  sauces,  etc. 

Green  Spinach  Coloring. 

Take  and  wash  one  pound  of  green  spinach  thoroughly  in 
water,  then  squeeze  it  through  a  piece  of  muslin  until  per- 
fectly dry,  then  put  six  spoonfuls  of  cold  water  in  it,  and  let 
it  stand,  then  remove  it  to  a  very  small  bowl,  and  gradually 
cook  six  hours.  Empty  the  water  gradually,  be  careful  not 
to  disturb  the  bottom,  and  do  this  until  you  find  a  thick  green 
spinach  coloring.  Put  a  little  bit  of  soda  as  big  as  a  large 
pin's  head  and  dissolve  well,  and  put  this  in  a  small  bottle, 
and  it  will  keep  for  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks. 

Essence  of  Lemon. 

Take  one  lemon,  apply  one  piece  of  lump  sugar  on  the  rind, 
and  keep  on  rubbing  this  until  you  get  the  side  of  the  sugar 
perfectly  yellow.  Then  take  a  knife  and  grate  off  the  colored 
sugar  on  to  a  piece  of  paper.  This  is  impregnated  with  the 
oil  of  the  lemon.  Then  apply  the  sugar  again  until  you  have 
gone  all  round  the  lemon.  Have  ready  a  bottle  with  a  large 
neck,  so  as  to  pass  a  knife  or  a  teaspoon  in  easy  access  to  the 
sugar.  Into  this  bottle  pour  the  colored  sugar  and  cork  well 
until  required. 

Every  time  you  buy  a  lemon  do  the  same  thing,  then  you 
will  always  have  pure  essence  of  lemon  ready  for  your  cakes, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  393 

puddings,  etc.,  in  fact  for  anything  you  want  to  flavor  with 
essence  of  lemon.  This  is  the  purest  essence  of  lemon  that 
can  be  bought. 

ORANGE  ESSENCE  is  secured  by  exactly  the  same  process  as 
that  for  lemons.  It  is  not  necessary  to  buy  oranges  or  lemons 
for  the  purpose,  as  the  fruit  is  not  spoilt  and  can  be  used  for 
desert,  if  desired. 

Essence  of  Vanilla. 

Buy  two  pods  of  vanilla  from  your  grocer  or  confectioner, 
roll  these  in  a  piece  of  paper,  so  as  to  dry  perfectly,  then 
take  twelve  pieces  of  lump  sugar,  break  the  two  pods  of 
vanilla  into  it,  place  all  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  well  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  or  until  thoroughly  fine;  then  rub  this  through 
a  very  fine  sieve,  and  you  obtain  a  very  fine  vanilla  pow- 
der. To  this  add  one  pound  of  icing  sugar,  mix  this  all 
together  well.  Take  an  ordinary  jar  and  at  the  bottom  place 
two  whole  pods  of  vanilla,  and  pour  the  pounded  mixture  on 
top.  Cork  well  and  use  when  required.  A  jar  of  vanilla  made 
in  this  way  can  be  kept  for  a  year.  When  used  up,  pound  the 
old  vanilla  pods  and  repeat  the  process  as  above,  always  tak- 
ing care  to  put  two  fresh  pods  of  vanilla  at  the  bottom  of  the 
jar.  Then  you  have  a  pure  vanilla.  The  vanilla  usually  sold 
is  not,  in  many  cases,  vanilla  at  all. 

To  Make  Spice  Salt,  Otherwise  Sel-a-picer. 

Take  two  ounces  of  allspice,  pure,  mix  up  with  one  pound  of 
salt,  and  put  in  a  jar  to  keep  dry.  This  salt  is  used  for  sea- 
soning sausages,  or  any  kind  of  meat  pies,  liver,  etc.  It  will 
give  you  a  salt  which  you  will  recognize  as  different  in  color 
from  what  you  generally  buy,  and  you  will  certainly  note  the 
difference  in  flavor. 

Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  dry  fine  table-salt,  six 
small  red  chili,  and  rub  well  with  your  fingers  until  you  have 
got  the  whole  of  the  pepper  out  of  them ;  then  pass  through 
a  very  fine  sieve  and  bottle  up.  Use  this  instead  of  cayenne, 
or  any  other  name  of  that  kind  on  the  market.  You  can  make 
this  for  five  cents,  but  you  could  not  buy  it  for  seventy-five  cents. 
This  is  called  "  SOYER'S  SALT,"  and  is  unapproachable 
for  excellence. 

Soyer's  All-Spice. 

One  ounce  of  dried  bay-leaves,  half  an  ounce  of  dried  thyme, 
one  ounce  of  coriander,  one  ounce  of  cinnamon,  one  and  a  half 


394  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ounces  of  grated  nutmeg,  one  ounce  of  cloves,  one  ounce  of 
root  ginger,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  two  ounces  of 
mixed  pepper  (half  black  and  half  white),  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Put  all  these  into  a  mortar  and  pound 
them  until  able  to  pass  through  a  very  fine  sieve.  Put  the  pow- 
der into  an  airtight  box  or  bottle  and  keep  dry,  using  as  re- 
quired. 

To  Make  Spice  Salt. 

For  seasoning  meat,  game  pie,  forcemeat,  etc. 
Mix  two  ounces  of  the  above  powder  with  twelve  ounces  of 
well-dried  salt.     Keep  airtight  in  a  dry  place. 

Aromatic  Herbs  for  Flavoring 

consist  of  parsley,  chervil,  pimpernel,  sage,  basil,  rosemary, 
sweet  marjoram,  thyme  and  bay.  Cinnamon,  ginger,  juniper- 
berries,  nutmegs,  clove,  mace  and  vanilla.  Also  Seville  orange 
and  lemon  rind.  The  two  last  yield  their  flavors  by  grating  the 
rind.  (See  pp.  392  and  393.) 

Saline  Seasoning. 

Salt,  spiced  salt,  saltpetre,  malt  vinegar,  French  vinegar, 
tarragon  vinegar,  white  vinegar  and  lemon  juice. 

Peppercorns,  ground  or  crushed,  or  pepper.  Mignonette, 
paprika,  curry,  cayenne,  and  compound  spices. 

Pungent  Flavorings. 

Onions,  shallots,  garlic,  chives,  horse-radish,  all  of  which  are 
used  judiciously  according  to  taste  (a  little  is  always  better 
than  a  large  quantity). 

Bouquets  Garnee. 

Faggots  —  commonly  called  bouquets  garnee —  are  usually 
composed  of  two  sprigs  of  parsley  well  washed,  one  bay- 
leaf,  and  one  sprig  of  thyme,  tied  tightly  together  in  a  bunch 
or  bouquet. 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  395 


VARIOUS  FRUIT  BEVERAGES. 

For  Lemonade. 

Take  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  lemon  juice,  one  and  a 
half  pints  of  water. 

Make  syrup  by  boiling  sugar  and  water  twelve  minutes;  add 
lemon  juice,  cool,  and  dilute  with  ice-water  to  suit  individual 
tastes.  Lemon  syrup  may  be  bottled  and  kept  on  hand  to  use 
as  needed. 

Lemonade.  (Another  Method.) 

Peel  six  lemons  free  from  pith,  cut  the  peel  up  in  small 
pieces,  and  put  them  with  two  cloves  into  a  bottle,  with  half  a 
pint  of  hot  water,  and  place  in  a  bain-marie,  or  stewpan,  with 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  one 
or  two  hours,  taking  care  it  does  not  boil;  remove  it  and  let 
it  remain  until  cold;  then  take  half  a  pint  of  fresh  lemon 
juice,  half  a  pint  of  sugar,  that  will  make  the  same  quantity  of 
syrup  —  to  which  add  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water; 
add  the  infusion  of  the  rind,  stir  well  together  and  add  two 
quarts  of  cold  water.  The  acidity  of  some  lemons  is  greater 
than  others,  in  which  case,  and  also  if  using  lime  juice,  more 
sugar  must  be  used. 

Cold  Punch. 

Proceed  as  above  for  lemonade,  but  add  one  pint  of  sugar 
to  half  a  pint  of  lemon  juice,  one  pint  of  pale  brandy,  one  pint 
of  pale  rum,  one  tablespoonful  of  arrack,  and  five  quarts  of 
cold  water;  let  it  remain  some  time  before  it  is  decantered. 

Port  Wine  Negus. 

Take  one  quart  of  new  port  wine,  of  a  fruity  character,  one 
tablespoonful  of  spirit  of  cloves,  one  teacupful  of  sugar,  one 
lemon  sliced,  half  a  nutmeg  grated;  pour  over  these  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water. 

White  Wine  Fillip. 

Take  one  bottle  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  or  champagne,  or  any 
other  good  white  wine,  a  gill  of  Noyeau  or  Maraschino,  the 


396  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

juice  of  half  a  lemon;  add  to  it  one  quart  of  calves'  foot  jelly, 
well  sweetened  and  boiling  hot,  and  serve  immediately. 

Marmalade  Water. 

Take  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  marmalade,  place  in  a 
jug  and  pour  on  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Stir  well  to- 
gether. Now  add  a  further  one  and  a  half  pints  of  boiling 
water,  stir  and  allow  to  cool.  When  cold,  strain  through  mus- 
lin and  serve.  A  most  refreshing  drink  on  a  hot  summer's 
day.  Individual  taste  must  decide  as  to  whether  more  or  less 
marmalade  should  be  mixed  with  the  given  quantity  of  water. 
No  sugar  should  be  added,  but  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
freshly  expressed,  adds  a  very  agreeable  flavor.  The  slightly 
bitter  taste  of  this  marmalade  drink  is  a  rare  appetizer. 

Hot  Orange  Drink. 

Squeeze,  free  from  pips  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  one 
lemon  into  a  half-pint  tumbler.  Add  one  piece  of  lump  sugar, 
and  fill  up  with  hot  water.  This  is  Hot  a  beverage  for  all  oc- 
casions, but  is  particularly  efficacious  in  warding  off  a  severe 
cold.  Persons  feeling  the  premonitions  of  a  cold  should  sip 
a  tumblerful  of  this  liquid,  as  hot  as  possible,  upon  retiring 
to  bed,  and,  if  warmly  wrapped,  will  find  in  the  morning  that 
the  cold  has  been  averted.  The  stimulating  and  strengthening 
effect  of  orange  juice  in  the  case  of  influenza  patients,  has  now 
been  recognized  for  a  considerable  time.  , 

Pineapple  Lemonade. 

One  pint  of  water,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  quart  ice-water, 
one  can  of  grated  pineapple,  juice  of  three  lemons. 

Make  syrup  by  boiling  water  and  sugar  ten  minutes;  add 
pineapple  and  lemon  juice,  cool,  strain,  and  add  ice-water. 

Orangeade. 

Make  syrup  as  for  lemonade.  Sweeten  orange  juice  with 
syrup,  and  dilute  by  pouring  over  crushed  ice. 

Mint  Julep. 

One  quart  of  water,  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  claret 
wine,  one  cup  of  strawberry  juice,  one  cup  of  orange  juice, 
juice  of  eight  lemons,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  boiling  water, 
twelve  sprigs  of  fresh  mint. 

Make  syrup  by  boiling  quart  of  water  and  sugar  twenty 
minutes.  Separate  mint  in  pieces,  add  to  the  boiling  water, 
cover,  and  let  stand  in  warm  place  five  minutes,  strain,  and 
add  to  syrup;  add  fruit  juices  and  cool.  Pour  into  punch-bowl, 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  397 

add  claret,  and  chill  with  large  piece  of  ice;  dilute  with  water. 
Garnish  with  fresh  mint  leaves  and  whole  strawberries. 

Claret  Punch. 

One  quart  of  cold  water,  half  a  cup  of  raisins,  two  cups  of 
sugar,  two-inch  piece  stick  cinnamon,  few  shavings  of  lemon 
rind,  one  and  one-third  cups  of  orange  juice,  one-third  cup  of 
lemon  juice,  one  pint  of  claret  wine. 

Put  raisins  in  cold  water,  bring  slowly  to  boiling-point,  and 
boil  twenty  minutes;  strain,  add  sugar,  cinnamon,  lemon  rind, 
and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  fruit  juice,  cool,  strain,  pour  in 
claret,  and  dilute  with  ice-water. 

Fruit  Punch. 

One  quart  of  cold  water,  two  cups  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of 
lemon  juice,  two  cups  chopped  pineapple,  one  cup  of  orange 
juice. 

Boil  water,  sugar,  and  pineapple  twenty  minutes;  add  fruit 
juice,  cool,  strain,  and  dilute  with  ice-water. 

Fruit  Punch.  (Another  Method.) 

One  cup  of  water,  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  tea  infusion, 
one  quart  Apollinaris,  two  cups  of  strawberry  syrup,  juice 
of  five  lemons,  juice  of  five  oranges,  one  can  grated  pine- 
apple, one  cup  of  Maraschino  cherries. 

Make  syrup  by  boiling  water  and  sugar  ten  minutes ;  add  tea, 
strawberry  syrup,  lemon  juice,  orange  juice,  and  pineapple;  let 
stand  thirty  minutes,  strain,  and  add  icewater  to  make  one 
and  one-half  gallons  of  liquid.  Add  cherries  and  Apollinaris. 
Serve  in  punch-bowl,  with  large  piece  of  ice.  This  quantity 
will  serve  fifty. 

Fruit  Punch.  (Another  Method.) 

One  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  hot  tea  infusion,  three-quar- 
ters cup  of  orange  juice,  one-third  cup  of  lemon  juice,  one 
pint  of  ginger  ale,  one  pint  of  Apollinaris,  few  slices  of  orange. 
Pour  tea  over  sugar,  and  as  soon  as  sugar  is  dissolved,  add 
fruit  juices.  Strain  into  punch-bowl  over  a  large  piece  of  ice, 
and  just  before  serving  add  ginger  ale,  Apollinaris,  and  slices 
of  orange. 

Ginger  Punch. 

One  quart  of  cold  water,  one  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of 
root  ginger,  half  a  cup  of  orange  juice,  half  a  cup  of  lemon 
juice.  Chop  ginger,  add  to  water  and  sugar,  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes, add  fruit  juice,  cool,  strain,  and  dilute  with  crushed  ice. 


398  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Club  Punch. 

One  cup  of  water,  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  quart  Burgundy, 
one  cup  of  rum,  one-third  cup  of  brandy,  one-third  cup  Bene- 
dictine, one  quart  Vichy,  three  sliced  oranges,  half  can  pine- 
apple, with  syrup,  juice  of  two  lemons,  one  cup  of  tea  infusion, 
ice. 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  water  and  sugar  ten  minutes.  Mix 
remaining  ingredients,  except  ice,  sweeten  to  taste  with  syrup, 
and  pour  into  punch-bowl  over  a  large  piece  of  ice. 

Unfermented  Grape  Juice. 

Ten  pounds  of  grapes,  one  cup  of  water,  three  pounds  of 
sugar. 

Put  grapes  and  water  in  granite  stewpan.  Heat  until  stones 
and  pulp  separate;  then  strain  through  jelly-bag,  add  sugar, 
bring  to  boiling-point,  and  bottle.  This  will  make  one  gallon. 
When  served,  it  should  be  diluted  one-half  with  water. 

Claret  Cup. 

One  quart  of  claret  wine,  one-half  cup  Curacoa,  one  quart 
Apollinaris,  one-third  cup  of  orange  juice,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  brandy,  sugar,  mint  leaves,  cucumber  rind,  twelve  straw- 
berries. 

Mix  ingredients,  except  Apollinaris,  using  enough  sugar  to 
sweeten  to  taste.  Stand  on  ice  to  chill,  and  add  chilled  Apol- 
linaris just  before  serving. 

Sauterne  Cup. 

One  quart  of  soda  water,  two  cups  of  Sauterne  wine,  rind  of 
half  orange,  rind  of  half  lemon,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange 
Curacoa,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  mint  leaves,  few  slices  of  orange, 
twelve  strawberries. 

Add  Curacoa  to  rind  of  fruit  and  sugar;  cover,  and  let  stand 
two  hours.  Add  Sauterne,  strain,  and  stand  on  ice  to  chill. 
Add  chilled  soda  water,  mint  leaves,  slices  of  orange,  and 
strawberries.  The  success  of  cups  depends  upon  the  addi- 
tion of  mineral  water  just  before  serving. 

Capillaire  Water. 

Place  one  pound  of  fresh,  well-cleaned  maiden-hair  fern 
—  roots  and  all  —  in  a  vessel  with  just  sufficient  boiling  water 
to  cover  it.  Let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place  for  ten  hours, 
after  which  strain  and  add  sugar  to  taste,  usually  one  pound 
to  each  pint.  Now  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange-flower 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  399 

water  and  let  the  syrup  simmer  for  five  minutes.    Then  strain 
and  bottle  for  use. 

This  syrup  is  taken  with  water,  either  by  itself  or  with 
other  syrups. 

Metheglin. 

Take  eight  gallons  of  boiling  water,  fifteen  pounds  of  honey, 
a  gallon  of  currant  juice,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  cream  of 
tartar,  and  stir  together  for  half  an  hour.  Let  it  ferment  well, 
and  then  add  two  quarts  of  brandy.  Strain  carefully  and  bot- 
tle. It  should  be  kept  three  months  before  being  used. 

Nonpareil  Cordial. 

Take  two  large  pineapples,  forty  greengages,  and  twenty 
ripe  pears.  Peel  and  mince  finely,  being  careful  not  to  waste 
the  juice.  To  each  pound  of  the  fruit  add  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  sugar  and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water,  and  let  the 
whole  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  skimming  from 
time  to  time.  Strain  carefully,  and  when  quite  cold  add  six 
quarts  of  gooseberry  brandy.  If  this  is  not  to  be  had,  ordinary 
brandy  will  do. 

Bottle,  cork  tightly,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  six  weeks, 
when  the  cordial  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Heidelberg  Punch. 

Slice  a  large  cucumber  and  mix  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  and  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon.  Let  the  mixture  stand 
for  a  couple  of  hours  and  then  pour  over  it  a  pint  of  claret, 
a  pint  of  Vichy  or  soda-water,  half  a  tumblerful  of  sherry,  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy.  Mix  well  and  let  the  punch 
stand  on  ice  for  an  hour  before  use. 

Kirsch  and  Lemon. 

Infuse  the  thinly  pared  rind  of  a  lemon  in  a  small  glass  of 
Kirsch  for  an  hour  or  two,  then  strain  and  pour  it  into  a  quart 
of  red  or  white  wine,  in  which  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar  has  been  dissolved.  This  quantity  may  be  varied  ac- 
cording to  taste.  The  whole  should  be  iced  before  use. 

Aromatic  Cup. 

Take  four  pints  of  hock  or  Moselle  and  add  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  an  orange  and  a  lemon  sliced,  two  sprigs  of  woodruff, 
one  of  peppermint,  and  twenty  of  balm,  and  then  add  three 
leaves  each  of  black  currant,  lavender,  and  basil,  and  six  leaves 
each  of  geranium,  pimpernel,  yarrow,  and  tarragon.  Let  the 
whole  stand  for  two  hours,  then  strain,  and  pour  into  a  bowl 


400  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

over  two  dozen  strawberries  —  or  any  other  fruit  will  do  — 
and  set  it  upon  the  ice  for  an  hour  before  use. 

If  any  of  the  herbs  mentioned  are  not  obtainable,  use  simply 
the  woodruff  and  a  few  black  currant  leaves. 

Orange  Bichof. 

Cut  four  bitter  oranges  into  quarters,  score  the  rind  lightly 
with  a  knife  and  grill  the  pieces  over  a  rather  slow  fire.  Then 
place  them  in  an  earthenware  cooking  vessel  with  four  bottles 
of  strong  white  wine.  Close  the  vessel  tightly  and  let  the 
whole  infuse  all  the  night  in  the  warm  ashes  of  the  fire.  Strain 
the  mixture  and  add  two  pounds  of  sugar  with  a  little  grated 
nutmeg. 

Mead. 

Stir  twenty  pounds  of  honey  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
into  twelve  gallons  of  water.  Add  a  spoonful  each  of  cloves, 
mace,  cinnamon,  and  ginger,  and  two  sprigs  of  rosemary,  and 
let  the  whole  simmer  for  an  hour.  When  cool  place  in  a 
suitable  vessel  and  add  a  spoonful  of  yeast.  The  process  of 
fermentation  should  not  be  interfered  with,  but  allowed  to  con- 
tinue until  it  ceases  of  itself.  The  mead  must  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place,  and  should  not  be  bottled  until  six  months  after  it 
is  made. 

Bordeaux  Punch. 

Take  a  quart  of  claret  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and 
the  juice  of  three  oranges  and  two  lemons.  Raise  to  boiling 
point  and  then  pour  into  a  bowl,  adding  two  slices  of  orange 
and  two  of  lemon,  and  a  bunch  of  mint  sprinkled  with  sifted 
sugar. 

This  should  be  served  as  hot  as  possible. 

Rhubarb  Water. 

Boil  gently  seven  sliced  stalks  of  green  rhubarb  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  chopped  figs  or  raisins  in  three  pints  of  water 
for  half  an  hour.  Then  strain  through  muslin  and  add  a  few 
drops  of  orange-flower  water  and  lemon  or  orange  syrup  to 
taste.  Ice  before  serving. 

Koumiss. 

Fill  a  quart  bottle  three-quarters  full  with  new  milk,  adding 
a  tablespoonful  of  fresh  yeast  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 
Shake  until  the  ingredients  are  mixed,  then  fill  up  the  bottle 
with  milk  and  shake  again.  Cork  very  tightly  and  tie  or  wire 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  401 

in  order  that  the  cork  may  not  be  blown  out.  Let  the  bottle 
stand  upright  in  a  cool  place  for  three  days,  then  turn  it  on  its 
side  until  required.  It  must  be  kept  in  a  dark  cellar  or  other 
place  where  the  temperature  does  not  rise  above  fifty-five  de- 
grees. 

Very  strong  bottles  are  necessary  for  this  purpose  —  cham- 
pagne bottles  for  preference  —  and  it  is  well  to  place  the 
Koumiss  where  no  great  harm  will  be  done  if  the  bottle  bursts. 
Care  must  be  taken  in  decanting  as  the  cork  is  expelled  with 
great  force;  the  better  plan  being  to  use  a  champagne  tap,  so 
that  the  liquor  can  be  withdrawn  without  uncorking  the  bottle. 

Racahout. 

Mix  thoroughly  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  ground 
rice,  a  tablespoonful  of  sifted  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  choco- 
late powder,  and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot.  Take  two 
dessertspoonfuls  of  this  mixture  and  make  into  a  smooth  paste 
with  a  cup  of  water.  Then  stir  it  slowly  into  a  quart  of  hot 
milk  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 

This  should  be  drunk  as  hot  as  possible. 


402  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


COFFEE  AND  COCOA. 

COFFEE. 

The  coffee-tree  is  native  to  Abyssinia,  but  is  now  grown  in 
all  tropical  countries.  It  belongs  to  the  genus  Coffea,  of  which 
there  are  about  twenty-two  species.  The  seeds  or  berries  of 
coffee-trees  constitute  the  coffee  of  commerce.  Each  berry 
contains  two  seeds,  with  exception  of  maleberry,  which  is  a 
single  round  seed.  In  their  natural  state  they  are  almost  taste- 
less; therefore  color,  shape,  and  size  determine  value.  For- 
merly, coffee  was  cured  by  exposure  to  the  sun;  but  on  account 
of  warm  climate  and  sudden  rainfalls,  coffee  was  often  in- 
jured. By  the  new  method  coffee  is  washed,  and  then  dried 
by  steam  heat. 

In  coffee  plantations,  trees  are  planted  in  parallel  rows,  from 
six  to  eight  feet  apart,  and  are  pruned  so  as  never  to  exceed 
six  feet  in  height.  Brazil  produces  about  two-thirds  the 
coffee  used.  Central  America,  Java,  and  Arabia  are  also  coffee 
centers. 

Tea  comes  to  us  ready  for  use;  coffee  needs  roasting.  In 
process  of  roasting  the  seeds  increase  in  size,  but  lose  fifteen 
per  cent,  in  weight.  Roasting  is  necessary  to  develop  the  de- 
lightful aroma  and  flavor.  Java  coffee  is  considered  finest. 
Mocha  commands  a  higher  price,  owing  to  certain  acidity  and 
sparkle,  which  alone  is  not  desirable;  but  when  combined  with 
Java,  in  proportion  of  two  parts  Java  to  one  part  Mocha,  the 
coffee  best  suited  to  average  taste  is  made.  Some  people  pre- 
fer Maleberry  Java;  so  especial  care  is  taken  to  have  male- 
berries  separated,  that  they  may  be  sold  for  higher  price.  Old 
Government  Java  has  deservedly  gained  a  good  reputation,  as 
it  is  carefully  inspected,  and  its  sale  controlled  by  Dutch  gov- 
ernment. Strange  as  it  may  seem  to  the  consumer,  all  coffee 
sold  as  Java  does  not  come  from  the  island  of  Java. 

The  stimulating  property  of  coffee  is  due  to  the  alkaloid 
caffeine,  together  with  an  essential  oil.  Like  tea,  it  contains 
an  astringent.  Coffee  is  more  stimulating  than  tea,  although, 
weight  for  weight,  tea  contains  about  twice  as  much  theine  as 
coffee  contains  caffeine.  The  smaller  proportion  of  tea  used 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  403 

accounts  for  the  difference.  A  cup  of  coffee  with  breakfast, 
and  a  cup  of  tea  with  supper,  serve  as  a  mild  stimulant  for 
an  adult,  and  form  a  valuable  food  adjunct,  but  should  never 
be  found  in  the  dietary  of  a  child  or  dyspeptic.  Coffee  taken 
in  moderation  quickens  action  of  the  heart,  acts  directly  upon 
the  nervous  system,  and  assists  gastric  digestion.  Fatigue  of 
body  and  mind  are  much  lessened  by  moderate  use  of  coffee; 
severe  exposure  to  cold  can  be  better  endured  by  the  coffee 
drinker.  In  times  of  war,  coffee  has  proved  more  valuable 
than  alcoholic  stimulants  to  keep  up  the  enduring  power  of 
soldiers.  Coffee  acts  as  an  antidote  for  opium  and  alcoholic 
poisoning.  Tea  and  coffee  are  much  more  readily  absorbed 
when  taken  on  an  empty  stomach;  therefore,  this  should  be 
avoided,  except  when  used  for  medicinal  purposes.  Coffee 
must  be  taken  in  moderation;  its  excessive  use  means  palpita- 
tion of  the  heart,  tremor,  insomnia  and  nervous  prostration. 

Coffee  is  often  adulterated  with  chicory,  beans,  peas,  and 
various  cereals,  which  are  colored,  roasted  and  ground.  By 
many,  a  small  amount  of  chicory  is  considered  an  improvement, 
owing  to  the  bitter  principle  and  volatile  oil  which  it  contains. 
Chicory  contains  no  caffeine.  To  detect  adulteration  by 
chicory,  add  cold  water  to  supposed  coffee;  if  chicory  is  pres- 
ent, the  liquid  will  be  quickly  discolored,  and  the  chicory  will 
sink;  pure  coffee  will  float. 

BUYING  OF  COFFEE. —  Coffee  should  be  bought  for  family 
use  in  small  quantities,  freshly  roasted  and  ground;  or,  if  one 
has  a  coffee-mill,  it  may  be  ground  at  home  as  needed.  After 
being  ground,  unless  kept  air-tight,  it  quickly  deteriorates.  If 
not  bought  in  air-tight  cans,  with  tight-fitting  cover,  or  glass, 
it  should  be  emptied  into  canister  as  soon  as  brought  from 
grocers. 

Coffee  may  be  served  as  filtered  coffee,  infusion  of  coffee, 
or  decoction  of  coffee.  Commonly  speaking,  boiled  coffee  is 
preferred,  and  is  more  economical  for  the  consumer.  Coffee 
is  ground  fine,  coarse,  and  medium;  and  the  grinding  depends 
on  the  way  in  which  it  is  to  be  made.  For  filtered  coffee  have 
it  finely  ground;  for  boiled,  coarse  or  medium. 

Coffee  a  la  Franchise. 

Take  i  cup  coffee  (finely-ground),  6  cups  boiling  water. 

Various  kinds  of  coffee-pots  are  on  the  market  for  making 
filtered  coffee.  They  all  contain  a  strainer  to  hold  coffee  with- 
out allowing  grounds  to  mix  with  infusion.  Some  have  an  ad- 


404  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

ditional  vessel  to   hold  boiling  water,   upon  which   coffee-pot 
may  rest. 

Place  coffee  in  strainer,  strainer  in  coffee-pot,  and  the  whole 
on  the  range.  Add  boiling  water  at  intervals  of  from  five  to 
ten  minutes  and  allow  it  to  filter.  Cover  the  pot  between  each 
interval.  These  operations  should  extend  over  at  least  thirty 
minutes.  Serve  at  once  with  lump  sugar  and  cream. 

Put  sugar  and  cream  in  cup  before  pouring  in  the   coffee. 
There   will   be   perceptible   difference   if   cream   is   added   last. 
If  cream  is  not   obtainable,   scalded  milk  may  be   substituted, 
or  part  milk  and  part  cream  may  be  used. 
For  Boiled  Coffee. 

Take  two  cupfuls  of  coffee,  two  eggs,  two  cups  of  cold  water, 
twelve  cups  of  boiling  water. 

Scald  granite-ware  coffee-pot.  Wash  egg,  break,  and  beat 
slightly.  Dilute  with  one-half  the  cold  water,  add  crushed 
shell,  and  mix  the  coffee.  Turn  into  coffee-pot,  pour  on  boil- 
ing water,  and  stir  thoroughly.  Place  on  front  of  range,  and 
boil  three  minutes.  If  not  boiled  coffee  is  cloudy;  if  boiled 
too  long,  too  much  tannic  acid  is  developed.  The  spout  of  the 
pot  should  be  covered  or  stuffed  with  soft  paper  to  prevent  es- 
cape of  fragrant  aroma.  Stir  and  pour  some  in  a  cup  to  re- 
move collection  of  grounds  from  spout.  Return  to  coffee-pot 
and  repeat.  Add  remaining  cold  water,  which  perfects  clear- 
ing. Cold  water  being  heavier  than  hot  water  sinks  to  the  bot- 
tom, carrying  grounds  with  it.  Place  on  back  of  range  for  ten 
minutes,  where  coffee  will  not  boil;  then  serve  with  cream  (or 
milk)  and  sugar  as  before. 

Egg-shells  should  be  saved  and  used  for  clearing  coffee,  the 
clearing  agent  being  the  slight  amount  of  albumen  which  clings 
to  the  shell.  Three  egg-shells  are  sufficient  to  effect  clearing 
ivhere  one  cup  of  ground  coffee  is  used. 

Coffee  made  with  an  egg  has  a  rich  flavor  which  egg  alone 
can  give.  Where  strict  economy  is  necessary,  if  great  care  is 
taken,  egg  may  be  omitted.  Coffee  so  made  should  be  served 
from  range,  as  much  motion  causes  it  to  become  roiled  or 
turbid. 

When  coffee  and  scalded  milk  are  served  in  equal  propor- 
tions, it  is  called  Cafe  au  lait.  Coffee  served  with  whipped 
cream  is  called  Vienna  Coffee. 

To  MAKE  A  SMALL  POT  OF  COFFEE. —  Mix  one  cup  ground 
coffee  with  one  egg,  slightly  beaten,  and  crushed  shell.  To 
one-third  of  this  amount  add  one-third  cup  cold  water.  Turn 


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STANDARD  COOKERY.  405 

into  a  scalded  coffee-pot,  add  pne  pint  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  for  three  minutes.  Let  stand  on  back  of  range  ten  minutes ; 
when  serve.  The  remaining  coffee  and  egg,  closely  covered, 
should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place,  when  by  simply  re-heating,  it 
may  be  used  on  the  two  successive  mornings. 

To  MAKE  COFFEE  FOR  ONE. —  Allow  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
ground  coffee  to  one  cup  of  cold  water.  Add  coffee  to  cold 
water,  cover  closely,  and  let  stand  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing, bring  to  a  boiling-point.  If  carefully  poured,  a  clear  cup 
of  coffee  may  be  served. 

After-Dinner  Coffee.   (Black  Coffee,  or  Cafe  Noir.) 

For  after-dinner  coffee  use  twice  the  quantity  of  coffee,  or 
half  the  amount  of  liquid  mentioned  in  previous  recipes.  Fil- 
tered coffee  is  often  preferred  where  tnilk  or  cream  is  not  used, 
as  is  always  the  case  with  black  coffee.  Serve  in  the  usual 
small  after-dinner  coffee  cups. 

Coffee  retards  gastric  digestion;  but  where  the  stomach  has 
been  overtaxed  by  a  hearty  meal,  cafe  noir  may  prove  benefi- 
cial, so  great  are  its  stimulating  effects,  but  over-indulgence 
must  be  strictly  guarded  against. 

Kola. 

The  preparations  on  the  market  made  from  the  kola-nut 
have  much  the  same  effect  upon  the  system  as  coffee  and  choc- 
olate, inasmuch  as  they  contain  caffeine  and  theobromine; 
they  are  also  valuable  for  their  diastase  and  a  milk-digesting 
ferment. 

Cocoa  and  Chocolate. 

The  cacao-tree  is  a  native  of  Mexico.  Although  success- 
fully cultivated  between  the  twentieth  parallels  of  latitude,  the 
industry  is  chiefly  confined  to  Mexico,  South  America,  and 
the  West  Indies.  Cocoa  and  chocolate  are  both  prepared  from 
seeds  of  the  cocoa  bean.  The  bean  pod  is  from  seven  to  ten 
inches  long,  and  three  to  four  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter. 
Each  pod  contains  from  twenty  to  forty  seeds,  imbedded  in 
mucilaginous  matter.  Cocoa  beans  are  dried  previous  to  im- 
portation. Like  coffee,  they  need  roasting  to  develop  flavor. 
After  roasting,  the  outer  covering  of  bean  is  removed;  this 
covering  makes  what  is  known  as  cocoa  shells,  which  have  lit- 
tle nutritive  value.  The  beans  are  broken  and  sold  as  cocoa 
nibs. 

The  various  preparations  of  cocoa  on  the  market  are  made 
from  the  ground  cocoa  nibs,  from  which,  by  means  of  hydraulic 


406  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

pressure,  a  large  amount  of  fat  is  expressed,  leaving  a  solid 
cake.  This  in  turn  is  pulverized  and  mixed  with  sugar,  and 
sometimes,  with  a  small  amount  of  corn-starch  or  arrowroot, 
with  perhaps  the  addition  of  cinnamon  or  vanilla.  Broma  con- 
tains both  arrowroot  and  cinnamon. 

Chocolate  is  made  from  cocoa  nibs,  but  contains  a  much 
larger  proportion  of  fat  than  cocoa  preparations. 

The  fat  obtained  from  cocoa  bean  is  cocoa  butter,  which 
gives  cocoa  its  principal  nutrient. 

Cocoa  and  chocolate  differ  from  tea  and  coffee  inasmuch  as 
they  contain  nutriment  as  well  as  stimulant.  The  active  prin- 
ciple is  almost  identical  with  theine  and  caffeine  in  its  com- 
position and  effects. 

Many  people  who  abstain  from  the  use  of  tea  and  coffee 
find  cocoa  indispensable.  Not  only  is  it  valuable  for  its  own 
nutriment,  but  for  the  large  amount  of  milk  added  to  it. 
Cocoa  may  be  well  placed  in  the  dietary  of  a  child  after  his 
third  year,  while  chocolate  should  be  avoided  as  a  beverage, 
but  may  be  given  as  a  confection.  Invalids  and  those  of  weak 
digestion  can  take  cocoa,  where  chocolate  would  prove  too  rich. 

For  Cocoa  Shells. 

Take  two  cups  of  cocoa  shells,  twelve  cups  of  boiling  water. 

Boil  shells  and  water  three  hours;  as  water  boils  away  it 
will  be  necessary  to  add  more.  Strain,  and  serve  with  milk 
and  sugar.  By  adding  two-thirds  cup  of  cocoa  nibs,  a  much 
more  satisfactory  drink  is  obtained. 

For  Cracked  Cocoa. 

Take  three  tablespoon  fuls  of  prepared  cocoa,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  four  cups  of  boiling  water,  four  cups  of 
milk. 

Scald  milk.  Mix  cocoa,  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  dilute 
with  one-half  cup  boiling  water  to  make  smooth  paste,  add  re- 
maining water,  and  boil  one  minute ;  turn  into  scalded  milk  and 
beat  three  minutes,  when  froth  will  form,  preventing  scum, 
which  is  so  unsightly;  this  is  known  as  milling. 

For  Reception  Cocoa. 

Take  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cocoa,  one-quarter  cup  of  sugar, 
a  few  grains  of  salt,  four  cups  of  milk,  three-quarters  cup  of 
boiling  water. 

Scald  milk.  Mix  cocoa,  sugar,  and  salt,  adding  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  a  smooth  paste;  add  remaining  water 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  407 

and   boil    two    minutes;    pour    into    scalded   milk.     Beat   three 
minutes,  using  egg-beater. 

For  Chocolate. 

Take  one  and  a  half  squares  of  chocolate,  one-quarter  cup 
of  sugar,  few  grains  of  salt,  one  cup  boiling  water,  three  cups 
of  milk. 

Scald  milk.  Melt  chocolate  in  small  saucepan  placed  over 
hot  water,  add  sugar,  salt,  and  gradually  boiling  water;  when 
smooth,  place  on  range  and  boil  one  minute;  add  to  scalded 
milk,  mill,  and  serve  in  chocolate  cups  with  whipped  cream. 
One  and  one-half  ounces  vanilla  chocolate  may  be  substituted 
for  chocolate;  being  sweetened,  less  sugar  is  required. 

Chocolate.  (Another  Method.) 

Prepare  same  as  previous  recipe,  substituting  one  can 
evaporated  cream  or  condensed  milk  diluted  with  four  cups 
boiling  water  in  place  of  three  cups  of  milk. 

Soyer's  Medicated  Coffee  for  Invalids. 

Prepare  coffee  as  "a  la  Francaise"  (pp.  403-404),  and 
when  ready  to  serve  drop  into  the  liquor  three  ounces  of  raw, 
very  lean  beef  (previously  finely  minced  and  diluted  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  COLD  water).  Place  the  coffee-pot  at  side 
of  stove,  to  keep  hot,  but  not  boil,  for  two  minutes.  Then  pass 
liquor  through  muslin  and  serve.  An  extremely  nourishing 
and  palatable  drink  for  invalids. 


408  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


JEWISH  DISHES. 

In  the  hope  that  my  book  may  appeal  to  all  classes  of  the 
community,  I  give,  in  the  following  chapter  a  few  recipes 
specially  useful  in  those  Jewish  households  where  the  regula- 
tions prescribed  by  the  Jewish  religion  are  strictly  observed. 

As  is  well  known  to  the  majority  of  my  readers,  these  regu- 
lations are  not  confined  to  questions  of  personal  conduct  and 
worship  but  extend  also  to  questions  of  food  and  the  methods 
of  cooking  the  same. 

One  has  but  to  turn  to  that  (possibly)  least  read  early  book 
of  the  Holy  Bible  —  Leviticus  —  to  realize  how  strict  were  the 
Mosaic  laws  in  matters  respecting  food,  clothing  and  personal 
cleanliness.  And  whilst  many  of  those  old-time  injunctions 
have  suffered  by  the  passage  of  time,  it  is  a  notable  fact  that, 
in  fundamentals  at  least,  those  relating  to  foods  and  their  prep- 
aration still  play  an  important  part  in  the  life  of  the  strict,  re- 
ligious Jew.  Just  what  these  rules  and  regulations  are  need 
not  be  capitulated  here  —  they  are  familiar  to  all  who  observe 
them  —  and  it  only  remains  therefore  to  give  the  various 
recipes,  not  only  as  a  means  of  reference  to  those  who  reg- 
ularly use  them,  but  also  as  a  matter  of  interest  to  those  of  my 
readers  who,  not  being  Jews,  may  yet  take  an  interest  in  uni- 
versal cookery. 

It  is  possible,  of  course,  that  the  passing  interest  may  de- 
velop, and  the  casual  reader  be  stimulated  to  give  one  or  more 
of  these  Jewish  recipes  a  trial.  In  such  case  I  can  safely 
promise  a  revelation  both  as  regards  preparation  and  resultant 
flavor. 

SOUPS. 
Barsht. 

Take  some  red  beetroots,  wash  thoroughly  and  peel,  and 
then  boil  in  a  moderate  quantity  of  water  from  two  to  three 
hours  over  a  slow  fire,  by  which  time  a  strong  red  liquor 
should  have  been  obtained.  Strain  off  the  liquor,  adding 
lemon  juice,  sugar,  and  salt  to  taste,  and  when  it  has  cooled 
a  little  stir  in  sufficient  yolks  of  eggs  to  slightly  thicken  it. 
This  may  be  used  either  hot  or  cold.  In  the  former  case 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  409 

it  is  usually  strengthened  with  a  little  home-made  beef  stock, 
and  is  considered  to  possess  valuable  tonic  properties. 

If  after  straining  off  the  soup  the  remaining  beetroot  is  not 
too  much  boiled  away,  it  may  be  chopped  finely  with  a  little 
onion,  vinegar,  and  dripping,  flavored  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  used  as  a  vegetable. 

Pesach  Barsht. 

About  a  month  before  Easter,  take  one  hundred-weight,  more 
or  less,  of  beetroot,  which  must  be  thoroughly  washed  and 
scraped.  Place  the  whole  in  a  clean  barrel  of  sufficient  size, 
adding  five  or  six  gallons  of  lukewarm  water.  Let  this  stand 
in  a  cool  place  until  signs  of  fermentation  are  observed,  when 
the  cover  must  be  removed  and  a  fresh  one  of  clean  linen  placed 
over  the  barrel. 

The  liquor  is  boiled  as  required,  with  any  condiments  and 
spices  that  are  liked,  and  may  be  used  either  hot  or  cold.  It  is 
considered  to  be  an  excellent  tonic. 

Shabbos  Shalend. 

Take  a  quart  each  of  white  haricot  beans  and  pearl  barley, 
wash  them  in  several  waters  and  drain  carefully.  Now  place 
them  in  a  covered  cooking  vessel  with  some  marrow  bones  or 
some  meat  cut  into  very  small  pieces.  Flavor  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  add  sufficient  water  to  just  cover.  Cover  the  vessel 
and  bake  thoroughly. 

This  is  always  done  on  Friday,  and  the  vessel  is  left  in  the 
oven  until  required  for  the  Saturday  dinner,  when  it  takes  the 
place  of  the  soup.  So  that  this  dish  may  not  be  of  too  thick 
a  consistency,  a  little  water  can  be  added  during  the  cooking 
process. 

A  rich  suet  dumpling  is  sometimes  placed  in  the  midst  of 
the  shalend;  or  some  parboiled  macaroni,  contained  in  an  in- 
verted cup  or  jar,  is  baked  with  it. 
Yontuffsup. 

Take  two  pounds  of  rib  of  beef,  half  a  chicken,  a  quarter 
of  a  turkey,  and  several  pigeons.  Place  in  a  large  cooking 
vessel  with  plenty  of  water,  and  add  a  split  carrot  and  onion, 
a  head  of  celery,  a  little  parsley  root,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  a  pinch  of  saffron.  Let  the  whole  simmer  for  two  hours. 
The  meat  is  then  removed  and  can  be  used  as  a  separate  dish. 
Mazzakloyss. 

This  is  an  accompaniment  to  the  Yontuffsup  described  above. 

Prepare  some  Mazzamehl  by  crushing  unleavened  bread  to 


410  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

a  fine  powder.  To  each  tablespoonful  of  this  flour  take  one 
egg.  Beat  the  egg  separately,  adding  a  very  little  ground 
ginger,  powdered  cinnamon,  ground  almond,  pepper  and  salt. 
Now  stir  in  the  Mazzamehl  and  make  into  a  paste  with  a  suffi- 
ciency of  chicken  fat  or  clarified  dripping.  Form  this  paste 
into  small  balls  and  boil  them  for  twenty  minutes  in  the 
Yontuffsup  previously  described. 

Einlauf. 

Take  four  new-laid  eggs  and  beat  well  into  a  semi-liquid 
paste  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  pinch  of  salt. 
Take  up  the  mixture  in  large  spoonfuls  and  drop  from  a  con- 
siderable height  into  boiling  soup  shortly  before  serving. 

The  secret  of  success  in  preparing  Einlauf  lies  in  dropping  it 
from  sufficient  height.  If  merely  poured  into  the  soup  it  will 
not  at  all  be  the  same  thing  —  neither  so  light  or  agreeable. 

Fruit  Soup. 

Take  two  pounds  of  plums,  cherries,  or  red  currants  and 
raspberries,  which  carefully  pick  and  wash,  and  boil  to  a 
pulp  with  a  pint  of  water.  Let  it  slightly  cool  and  then  stir 
in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little  sugar.  Strain  the 
soup,  which  should,  preferably,  be  served  cold. 

FISH. 

Gafillte  Fisch. 

Any  large  round  fish,  such  as  cod,  hake,  or  haddock,  may 
be  used,  but  pike  is  considered  best  for  the  purpose. 

Wash  and  scale  the  fish  with  the  utmost  care,  and  remove 
the  entrails.  The  head  may  be  cut  off  or  left  on  as  preferred. 
Next  wash  the  fish  in  several  waters  and  rub  well  with  salt 
both  inside  and* out.  Let  it  stand  for  an  hour,  then  wash 
again  and  remove  the  bones.  Next  remove  the  flesh  from  the 
skin,  an  operation  which  requires  great  care  in  order  that  the 
skin  may  not  be  broken.  The  best  method  is  to  scrape  off 
from  within. 

Mince  up  the  flesh  with  a  small  onion,  some  soaked  bread- 
crumbs, a  little  parsley,  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  and  bind  to- 
gether with  two  or  three  beaten  eggs  and  just  a  touch  of  but- 
ter. If  preferred,  a  little  ground  almonds  may  be  added. 
With  the  pulp  thus  prepared  refill  the  skin  and  give  it  the  old 
shape  —  of  course  the  fish  will  be  more  bulky  than  before. 

Next  place  in  a  fish  saucepan  an  onion  and  a  carrot,  both 
sliced,  with  two  glasses  of  water,  and  cook  gently  till  the  vege- 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  411 

tables  are  done.  Then  put  in  the  stuffed  fish  and  let  it  sim- 
mer for  about  an  hour,  according  to  size.  When  done,  re- 
move the  fish  to  a  dish,  add  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  butter  to 
the  liquor,  and  pour  over  the  fish.  This  may  be  eaten  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Jewish  Method  of  Frying  Fish. 

Scale  the  fish  with  the  utmost  thoroughness,  remove  the  en- 
trails, wash  very  thoroughly,  and  salt  both  inside  and  out. 
Then  cut  the  fish  into  convenient  slices,  place  them  on  a 
strainer,  and  leave  them  there  for  an  hour. 

Meanwhile,  place  some  flour  in  one  plate  and  some  beaten 
eggs  in  another,  and  heat  a  large  frying-pan  half  full  of  oil,  or 
animal  fat.  Now  wipe  your  fish  slices  thoroughly  with  a  clean 
cloth,  dip  them  first  in  flour  and  then  in  beaten  eggs,  and  finally 
fry  until  browned. 

Another  Method  of  Frying  Fish. 

Thoroughly  mix  six  ounces  of  flour  with  an  ounce  of  olive 
oil,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Stir  in  one  gill 
of  tepid  water  and  place  the  whole  to  stand  for  half  an  hour 
in  a  cool  place.  Next  beat  the  white  of  an  egg  stiff  and  stir 
into  the  batter.  Dip  each  fish  into  the  mixture,  then  roll  in 
breadcrumbs  and  cook  in  boiling  oil.  Butter  must  not  be  used. 

MEAT  AND   GAME. 
Descaides. 

Wash  thoroughly  several  fowls'  livers  and  then  let  them 
simmer  until  tender  in  a  little  strong  Kosher  stock,  adding 
some  sliced  mushroom,  minced  onion,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt.  When  thoroughly  done  mince  the  whole  finely,  or  pound 
it  in  a  mortar.  Now  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  and  mix  well 
with  the  yolks  of  sufficient  eggs  to  make  the  whole  fairly 
moist.  Warm  over  the  fire,  stirring  frequently  until  the  mix- 
ture is  quite  thick,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn. 

It  should  be  served  upon  rounds  of  toast  on  a  hot  dish 
garnished  with  parsley. 

Gafillte  Milz. 

Take  the  milt  of  an  ox  or  a  calf,  thoroughly  wash  it,  rub 
well  with  salt,  and  again  wash  it.  Then  split  it  open  and 
scrape  off  the  flesh  until  only  a  somewhat  thick  skin  is  left. 
Make  the  flesh  into  a  pulp  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for 
Gafillte  Fisch.  Then  put  the  pulp  back  in  the  skin  and  sew  it 


412  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

up  carefully.     Boil  in  plenty  of  hot  water  until  well  cooked, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Krepplekh. 

Make  a  fairly  tough  paste  by  mixing  beaten  eggs  with  flour, 
roll  out  very  thin  and  cut  into  small  squares.  Next  mince  any 
Kosher  meat  with  onion,  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  and  dis- 
tribute the  minced  meat  in  small  heaps  on  the  squares  of  paste. 
Fold  over  each  square  diagonally  so  as  to  make  a  triangle,  and 
pinch  the  edges  of  the  paste  together.  The  krepplekhs  are 
then  boiled  in  soup,  and  served  very  hot. 

Annastich. 

Cook  one  pound  of  rice  in  a  quart  of  Kosher  stock  for  half 
an  hour,  stirring  frequently.  Then  add  a  chicken  stuffed  and 
trussed  as  for  roasting;  cover  closely  and  cook  thoroughly. 
After  removing  the  chicken,  pass  the  liquor  through  a  strainer, 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  the  whipped  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
pour  over  the  bird. 

VEGETABLES. 

Krosphada. 

Place  two  sliced  onions  with  two  ounces  each  of  sugar,  and 
spices,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  in  a  pint  of  pure  malt  vine- 
gar, and  boil  gently  until  the  onions  are  nearly  done.  Let  it 
cool  a  little  and  then  stir  in  six  beaten  eggs  and  sufficient 
crumbled  ginger-bread  to  make  the  whole  quite  thick.  Place 
again  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  frequently  and 
mashing  the  mixture  into  a  uniform  paste;  but  be  very  care- 
ful that  it  does  not  boil. 

Tsimess. 

Take  equal  portions  of  parboiled  spinach  and  sorrel,  flavor 
to  taste  with  ground  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  sufficient 
dripping  to  make  the  whole  moderately  moist.  Place  in  a  cov- 
ered bowl  or  other  vessel  in  a  slow  oven. 

This  is  prepared  on  Friday  and  left  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot 
until  required  for  Saturday's  dinner.  All  green  vegetables 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

SALAD. 
Salt  Herring  Salad. 

Put  a  salted  herring  to  soak  in  water  over  night,  and  the 
next  morning  wash  well,  skin  it  and  remove  the  bones.  Mince 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  413 

the  flesh  with  a  raw  onion  and  a  hard-boiled  egg,  adding  pep- 
per to  taste  and  sufficient  oil  to  moisten  well  the  whole. 

Mix  very  thoroughly  and  serve  with  fish,  either  hot  or  cold. 

SWEETS  AND  CAKES. 
Mlinczki. 

Beat  up  some  eggs  with  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  semi- 
liquid  paste  of  about  the  consistency  of  thick  molasses.  Pour 
this  into  a  frying-pan  in  which  a  little  oil  or  butter  has  been 
heated  to  boiling  point,  and  place  it  on  the  hob  or  near  a  fire, 
so  that  without  exactly  cooking  it  will  set  into  a  stiff  dough 
somewhat  resembling  a  partly  cooked  pancake.  Turn  this  out 
on  a  board  and  let  it  cool. 

Now  peel,  core,  and  mince  one  pound  of  apples  with  two 
ounces  of  ground  sweet  almonds,  two  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar,  a  pinch  of  cinnamon,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Mix  well  and  then  bind  with  the  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs. 

Spread  this  mixture  on  the  dough  which  in  the  meantime  has 
cooled  on  the  board,  fold  over,  and  tuck  the  edges  in  well. 
Then  sprinkle  well  with  powdered  cinnamon  and  castor  sugar, 
and  fry  in  plenty  of  oil  or  fat. 

This  is  served  either  hot  or  cold  as  a  sweet,  but  ic  better 
if  served  hot. 

Kremslekh. 

To  each  tablespoonful  of  Mazza  flour  (unleavened  bread  re- 
duced to  powder),  take  one  egg,  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  almonds,  a  few 
stoned  and  chopped  raisins,  a  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon,  a 
spoonful  of  oil,  or  its  equivalent  of  beef  dripping,  and  just 
enough  water  to  make  the  whole  into  a  stiff  paste.  Mix  the 
ingredients  very  thoroughly. 

Now  take  a  large  enameled  saucepan  and  about  half  fill  it 
with  oil  or  animal  fat.  Bring  this  to  boiling  point,  but  do  not 
let  it  burn.  Now  shape  the  paste  into  small  pieces  and  drop 
them  into  boiling  fat,  turning  them  continually  until  well 
browned  and  then  take  out  and  drain  carefully  on  a  strainer. 

This  is  a  very  popular  sweet  and  may  be  eaten  either  hot  or 
cold.  In  non-Jewish  households,  where  Mazza  flour  is  diffi- 
cult to  obtain,  plain  unsweetened  water  biscuits  crushed  to 
powder  can  be  substituted. 

Kindlekh. 

In  a  large  bowl  place  one  pound  of  fine  flour.     Make  a  hole 


414  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

in  the  midst  and  pour  into  it  a  small  yeast  cake  dissolved 
in  a  little  milk.  Let  this  remain  until  the  milk  and  yeast 
have  risen  a  little.  At  this  point  stir  in  the  surrounding 
flour  together  with  three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  six  ©unces  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  half 
a  pint  of  previously  mixed  milk.  Knead  the  whole  into  a 
smooth  dough. 

Roll  this  out  very  lightly  on  a  well-floured  board,  brush 
over  with  a  feather  dipped  in  melted  butter,  and  strew  thickly 
with  chopped  almonds,  sultanas,  and  currants.  Next  fold  over 
about  three  fingers'  width  of  the  dough.  Brush  the  upper  sur- 
face of  this  fold  with  melted  butter  and  strew  with  mixed 
fruit  and  almonds.  Fold  over  again  and  repeat  the  operation 
until  the  whole  of  the  dough  is  folded  up  in  layers  somewhat 
resembling  a  flattened  roly-poly  pudding.  Brush  the  top  well 
with  another  feather  dipped  in  beaten  egg  and  cut  the  whole 
into  thick  slices  or  fingers.  Let  them  stand  for  half  an  hour 
and  then  bake  for  an  hour  in  a  rather  slow  oven. 
Egg  Marmalade. 

Make  a  thick  syrup  by  dissolving  one  pound  of  sugar  in  half 
a  pint  of  water  over  the  fire,  adding  one  ounce  of  pounded  al- 
monds while  the  syrup  is  clarifying.  Take  off  the  saucepan 
and  when  the  contents  have  become  moderately  cool  stir  in 
carefully  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  twenty  eggs.  It  will  need 
rather  prolonged  stirring  to  blend  the  eggs  with  the  syrup. 
Now  flavor  with  vanilla  or  wine,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire,  stir- 
ring constantly  and  taking  great  care  that  the  mixture  does 
not  burn. 

Ramakins  of  Egg  and  Cheese. 

Beat  three  new-laid  eggs  and  blend  thoroughly  with  two 
ounces  of  grated  cheese  and  one  ounce  of  partly-melted  butter. 
Place  the  mixture  in  little  pans  or  saucers  and  bake  in  the 
oven. 

Almond  Pudding. 

Whisk  the  whites  of  seven  eggs  with  the  yolks  of  ten,  and 
stir  into  half  a  pound  of  pulverized  sweet  almonds  with  half 
an  ounce  of  pounded  bitter  almonds,  half  a  pound  of  castor 
sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water.  Blend  very 
thoroughly  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  in  a  well-buttered  dish. 
Powdered  sugar  should  be  strewed  freely  over  it  before  serv- 
ing. 

Lamplich. 

Make   a  mincemeat  by  chopping  finely   eight  medium-sized 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  415 

apples,  half  a  pound  each  of  raisins,  currants,  and  sugar,  a 
little  citron  peel,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered cinnamon. 

Cut  some  good  puff  paste  into  little  triangles  and  fill  with 
the  mince,  turning  the  corners  of  the  paste  over  it  so  as  to 
make  little  puffs.  Place  these  closely  together  on  a  buttered 
baking-dish  until  it  is  full.  Now  mix  an  ounce  of  melted  but- 
ter with  a  teacupful  of  thick  syrup  flavored  with  essence  of 
lemon,  and  pour  it  over  the  puffs.  Bake  until  done  in  a  rather 
slow  oven. 

Macrotes. 

Blend  one  pound  of  good  light  dough  with  two  eggs,  six 
ounces  of  butter,  and  add  as  much  flour  as  may  be  needed  to 
make  the  whole  sufficiently  dry.  Make  it  into  the  shape  of  a 
French  roll,  and  cut  off  rather  thin  slices,  which  should  be 
placed  before  the  fire  to  rise,  and  then  fried  in  oil.  Let  them 
drain  carefully,  and  when  nearly  cold  dip  each  in  very  thick 
syrup  flavored  with  essence  of  lemon. 

Gcfulde  Boterkock.  (Stuffed  Butter  Cake.) 
Make  a  paste  by  working  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  but- 
ter into  one  pound  of  flour  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
moist  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  and  a  pinch  of 
salt. 

Next  mix  half  a  pound  of  finely-chopped  citron  peel  with  half 
a  pound  of  ground  almonds,  two  pounds  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  three  ounces  of  butter.  Then  flavor  with  half  a  spoonful 
of  essence  of  vanilla  and  bind  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs. 

Roll  out  the  dough  and  divide  into  two  parts.  Place  one- 
half  on  a  well-buttered  baking-dish,  spread  the  mixture  evenly 
over  it,  and  cover  with  the  other  half  of  the  paste.  Brush 
with  a  feather  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
quick  oven  for  half  an  hour.  When  done  let  it  cool,  and 
then  cut  into  convenient  pieces. 


416  STANDARD  COOKERY. 


A  WEEK'S  DINNERS   FOR  THE  WORK- 
ING-MAN'S  HOME 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY 

BY    ONE    WHO     HAS    TRIED    THE     SOYER     PAPER-BAG     SYSTEM 

The  era  of  Paper-Bag  Cookery  opens  up  a  happier  pros- 
pect to  the  wife  of  the  working  man,  not  only  in  the  quality 
of  the  dishes  she  may  prepare,  but  in  more  leisure  for  her- 
self. 

Lest  any  frugal  housewife  may  be  appalled  at  the  prospect 
at  having  to  use  some  two  or  three  bags  before  she  can  pro- 
duce a  dinner,  let  me  state  that  all  the  following  recipes,  each 
of  which  I  have  tested  personally,  can  be  cooked  in  one  bag, 
leaving  only  the  pudding,  pie,  or  tart  to  be  considered. 

In  drawing  up  these  dinners  for  a  week,  I  have  had  in  mind 
a  household  consisting  of  mother,  father,  and  three  or  four 
children,  ranging  from  twelve  to  five  years  of  age. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  meat  wastes  practically  not  at 
all  during  the  cooking  process  in  the  bag;  therefore  if  you  put 
four  pounds  in  the  bag,  four  pounds  will  come  out. 

Sunday. 

Allow  a  quarter  of  a  pound  per  head  for  each  child,  and 
half  a  pound  per  head  for  the  two  adults,  and  you  will  have 
two  pounds  left  over,  either  for  Sunday  night's  supper  or 
for  next  day's  dinner.  As  to  vegetables,  get  a  halfpennyworth 
of  carrots,  onions,  and  turnips,  mixed,  and  two  pounds  of  po- 
tatoes. 

Peel  the  potatoes,  slice  them  very  thinly,  and  leave  in  water 
till  needed.  Peel  and  slice  the  onion  and  turnips  and  scrape 
the  carrot.  Cut  all  into  small  squares.  Wash  well;  leave  on 
a  plate  till  needed.  Take  a  little  suet  or  two  good  table- 
spoonfuls  of  dripping.  Rub  this  into  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  and  salt  to  taste,  being  careful  not  to  overdo  this,  and 
a  little  pepper.  Mix  to  the  ordinary  dumpling  consistency  with 
cold  water,  and  shape  into  dumplings  about  the  size  of  a  big 
Brazil  nut. 

And  now  for  beef  in  the  good  old  farmer  fashion. 

Wash   the  beef  well,   but  do   not  dry   it.     Sprinkle   it  with 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  417 

seasoned  flour  —  that  is,  flour  to  which  a  little  pepper  and 
salt  have  been  added  —  on  both  sides.  Now  grease  the  large 
bag  thickly  with  beef  dripping.  Take  the  potatoes  out  of  their 
bowl.  Do  not  dry  them,  but  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  the 
seasoned  flour.  Then  take  the  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  and 
onions,  and  mix  them  all  well  together,  sprinkling  them  with  a 
very  little  salt.  Take  a  handful  of  this  mixture  and  some 
dumplings  and  put  them  into  the  bottom  of  the  bag.  Then 
put  in  the  flank  of  beef.  Press  it  in  as  tightly  and  as  closely 
to  the  vegetables  as  possible,  and  if  the  bag  admits  put  a  few 
vegetables  on  top  and  under  the  joint.  Add  the  remainder  of 
the  vegetables,  etc.,  and  close  the  bag. 

Light  the  oven  gas  beforehand,  let  it  get  as  hot  as  it  can 
for  eight  minutes.  Then  place  the  paper  bag  on  the  grid, 
put  the  grid  on  the  shelf  of  the  oven,  and  close  the  door. 
Turn  the  gas  down  half  way,  and  leave  the  bag  in  for  from 
an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Then  take  out,  empty  into 
a  very  hot  dish  as  gently  as  possible.  Stir  well  with  a  spoon 
which  has  been  dipped  in  boiling  water. 

You  will  then  have  a  dinner  fit  for  a  king.  If  you  have  not 
a  wire  grid  you  can  use  the  ordinary  gas  grid.  In  this  case 
allow  another  quarter  of  an  hour  for  extra  cooking. 

If  you  would  like  a  sweet  for  which  no  attention  is  needed, 
and  do  not  wish  to  use  another  bag,  try  the  following:  — 

Place  a  little  sugar  at  the  bottom  of  a  clean  empty  jam 
jar,  add  a  pint  of  well-washed  gooseberries  or  peeled  and 
cut-up  rhubarb,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  cook  the  same 
time  as  the  beef.  If  cooked  in  a  greased  bag  instead  of  a  jar 
this  will  be  doubly  delicious.  When  done  serve  it  with  sweet 
milk  —  i.  e.,  half  a  pint  of  milk  thickened  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  or  corn-flour,  and  sweetened  to  taste. 

Monday. 

What  is  left  over  from  Sunday  will  make  the  dinner  for 
Monday. 

Grease  a  bag  well  as  before.  Cut  up  the  remains  of  the 
stewed  beef  into  small  square  pieces.  Dust  these  with  fresh 
seasoned  flour.  Put  two  pounds  of  potatoes,  cut  small  and 
dusted  with  salt,  into  a  greased  bag  as  before.  Sprinkle  the 
meat  with  a  little  powdered  sweet  herbs,  put  into  the  bag,  and 
add  to  it  a  handful  of  either  rice,  barley,  or  oatmeal,  which  has 
been  soaking  all  night  in  cold  water.  If  the  water  has  not 
been  quite  all  absorbed,  add  this  also.  Now  add  the  remains 
of  any  gravy  which  may  be  over  from  the  previous  day.  Close 


4i8  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

the  bag,  place  it  on  grid  as  before,  and  cook  for  sixty  minutes. 
Turn  out  into  a  hot  dish.  Stir  as  before  and  serve. 

A  jam  turnover  will  be  just  the  right  sort  of  substantial  dish 
to  follow  the  beef.  For  this  you  must  have  a  bag. 

Rub  four  ounces  of  lard  or  good  dripping  into  half  a  pound 
of  flour  salted  to  taste  till  it  crumbles  well.  Add  sufficient 
cold  water  to  make  to  a  stiff  paste;  roll  out  twice.  Mark  out 
a  square  and  spread  this  thickly  with  any  kind  of  jam  liked. 
Fold  over  the  two  sides  first  and  pinch  well  together.  Now 
fold  over  the  two  sides  in  the  same  way.  Brush  over  with 
water  or  milk,  and  sprinkle  well  with  brown  sugar.  Put  into 
the  greased  bag  and  bake  for  forty-five  minutes. 

Tuesday. 

For  this  day  try  a  new  way  of  doing  sausages. 

Take  two  pounds  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  pour  on  to  them 
two  wineglass fuls  of  hot  milk  or  water,  add  a  good  big  lump 
of  dripping  or  cold  bacon  fat,  and  mash  to  a  pulp,  then  beat 
up  with  a  fork  till  quite  light.  Take  one  and  a  half  pounds 
of  either  sausages  or  sausage  meat  (if  the  former,  squeeze 
the  meat  out  of  the  skins),  and  make  into  small  cakes,  each 
sausage  making  two  cakes.  Sprinkle  a  little  finely-chopped 
onion  on  top  of  each  cake.  Make  the  potato  pulp  into  thick 
round  cakes,  and  put  a  sausage  cake  on  top  of  each.  Place  in 
a  well-greased  bag.  Close  it,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  fif- 
teen minutes. 

This  is  a  splendid  way  of  using  up  cold  potatoes,  and  a 
very  quick  emergency  dinner  for  a  washing  day. 

Old-fashioned  Irish  plum  porridge.  Soak  half  a  pound  of 
oatmeal  over-night  in  cold  water.  At  the  same  time  soak  four 
ounces  of  well-washed  currants  in  another  dish.  Grease  a 
bag  well,  drain  the  currants,  add  them  to  the  oatmeal  together 
with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Mix,  place  in  the 
bag,  close,  and  cook  for  fifty  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Serve  with  sifted  sugar  and,  if  possible,  a  little  cream. 

Wednesday. 

Let  the  dinner  be  roast  and  stuffed  breast  of  mutton. 

Take  a  lean  breast  of  mutton  four  pounds  weight,  getting 
the  butcher  to  bone  it  for  you.  Make  a  stuffing  with  two 
ounces  of  stale  breadcrumbs,  a  dust  of  salt  and  pepper,  a 
finely-chopped  onion,  and  a  heaped  puddingspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  or,  if  pressed  for  time,  a  little  finely-powdered  mixed 
sweet  herbs.  Add  a  good  lump  of  dripping,  or  cut  a  little  fat 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  419 

from  the  thick  part  of  the  breast,  chop  this  finely,  and  use  in- 
stead of  dripping.  Bind  if  possible  with  an  egg,  or,  failing 
this,  use  a  little  cold  milk.  Lay  this  mixture  on  the  inside  of 
the  meat.  Roll  as  tightly  as  possible,  tie  into  place  with  clean 
tape  or  string.  Grease  the  bag  well.  Put  in  one  pound  of 
peeled  and  halved  potatoes,  choosing  these  all  as  nearly  of  a 
size  as  possible.  Then  put  in  the  meat.  Add  the  other  and 
put  in  the  rest  of  the  potatoes.  Put  in  bag  in  a  very  hot  oven. 
Lower  the  gas  half-way  (or  push  in  the  dampers),  and  cook 
for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  or  an  hour  and  a  half,  according 
as  the  meat  is  liked  —  well,  over  or  underdone.  Turn  out, 
serve  with  a  little  red  currant  jam,  if  jelly  is  not  possible. 

Baked  bread  pudding  will  be  found  very  acceptable  after 
this. 

To  make  it,  soak  half  a  pound  or  more  of  stale  bread  over- 
night in  cold  water.  Then  beat  up  with  a  fork  until  quite 
light.  Now  add  to  it  an  ounce  of  brown  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
well-washed  currants,  two  ounces  ditto  raisins,  a  little  candied 
peel,  and  a  good  lump  of  dripping.  Beat  up  the  mixture  thor- 
oughly. Sprinkle  it  thickly  on  top  with  brown  sugar.  Grease 
a  bag  thickly,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  for  forty  minutes. 
Open  the  bag,  slip  out  gently,  dust  with  sifted  sugar,  and  serve. 

Thursday. 

Chop  the  cold  mutton  left  over  from  Wednesday  finely. 
Dust  it  with  pepper,  salt,  a  little  powdered  sweet  herbs,  and 
add  to  it  a  large  finely-chopped  onion.  Sprinkle  the  whole 
well  with  seasoned  flour.  Add  any  cold  gravy  which  may  be 
over  from  the  day  before,  and  a  couple  of  rashers  of  lean 
flank  of  bacon  and  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  with 
the  same  amount  of  water.  Grease  the  bag.  Put  in  the  mince. 
Cook  gently  for  half  an  hour,  turn  out,  and  serve  with  baked 
potatoes. 

A  jam  roly-poly  pudding  will  be  a  nice  finish  to  this  dinner. 
It  is  too  well  known  to  need  a  recipe. 

Friday. 

A  little  fish  once  a  week  not  only  makes  a  nice  change  in 
the  monotony  of  the  midday  meal,  but  is  often  a  distinct  sav- 
ing both  in  health  and  pocket.  Stuffed  and  baked  haddocks 
are  delicious. 

For  a  family  of  six  allow  three  or  four  small  haddocks,  or  one 
large  one. 

Make  a  stuffing  in  exactly  the  same  way  as  described  for 
stuffed  breast  of  mutton.  Wash  the  fish  well  and  cut  off  the 


420  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

head;  then  put  in  the  stuffing.  Sew  up  the  fish  or  secure 
tightly  with  white  cotton.  Grease  the  outside  of  the  fish 
slightly,  this  to  take  the  place  of  the  "bits  of  butter"  put  on 
the  fish  when  the  latter  is  cooked  in  the  oven  in  the  old  way. 
Grease  the  bag  well.  Put  in  the  fish  and  bake  for  from  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  whether  two  small  fish  or  one 
large  one  is  used.  Slip  out  gently  and  serve  with  baked  po- 
tatoes. 

Dressed  macaroni  will  serve  for  a  pudding. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  cooked  macaroni.  Add  to  it  a  little 
white  pepper,  from  two  ounces  to  four  ounces  of  grated  cheese, 
and  a  liberal  two  ounces  of  nut  margarine,  which  is  quite 
equal  to  butter  in  every  respect,  and  contains  no  animal  fat 
whatever.  Grease  the  bag  well  with  the  nut  margarine.  Mix 
the  macaroni  well  up  with  the  cheese  and  nut  butter,  put  into 
the  bag,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Slip  out  on  to 
a  hot  dish  and  serve  at  once. 

Saturday. 

On  Saturday  the  housewife  usually  has  a  good  deal  of  clean- 
ing up  and  mending  to  do  for  the  morrow,  so  she  will  need 
something  which  does  not  require  much  preparation  before- 
hand. 

Liver  and  bacon,  always  a  highly  appreciated  dish,  will 
meet  the  difficulty,  and  there  is  no  fear  of  it  "catching"  in 
the  bag  if  she  should  chance  to  be  called  away  for  a  minute 
or  two. 

Slice  one  pound  of  very  fresh  liver,  dip  each  piece  into  flour 
nicely  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  piece  of  liver  on 
top  of  each  rasher  of  bacon.  Grease  the  bag  slightly.  Put 
in  the  rashers  and  liver.  Cook  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Open 
the  bag,  and  slip  out  the  meat  gently  on  to  a  very  hot  dish. 
Put  boiled  potatoes  round  as  a  border,  and  pour  the  gravy 
over  the  potatoes. 

Jam  buns  are  a  tremendous  saving  of  trouble  when  the 
housewife  is  very  busy  on  a  Saturday.  Get  half  a  dozen  stale 
buns  (penny  buns  are  sold  at  three  a  penny,  when  stale,  at  any 
bakers).  Split  them  open.  Pour  a  little  boiling  milk  or  water 
over  them.  Spread  thickly  with  golden  syrup.  Make  very 
hot  in  a  bag  (greased). 


STANDARD  COOKERY.  421 

SOYER'S  PAPER-BAG  COOKERY. 
INVALID  COOKERY. 
Sweetbread  Mackenzie. 

Blanch  and  trim  a  good-sized  sweetbread,  make  a  little 
mirepoix  of  vegetables,  paying  attention  to  the  color  of  the 
vegetables  and  seeing  that  they  do  not  brown.  Cut  the  sweet- 
bread across  the  center,  but  do  not  halve  it.  Pound  one  ounce 
of  pistachios  and  lay  them  in  the  slit  of  the  sweetbread.  Cover 
the  sweetbread  with  the  prepared  vegetables  and  place  in  a 
well-buttered  bag.  Cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 
Dish  the  sweetbread,  place  the  other  ingredients  in  a  fine  sieve 
and  lightly  press  the  gravy  through  on  to  the  sweetbread. 

Chicken  and  Rice  Tea. 

Chop  'Up  half  a  raw  chicken,  wash  a  tablespoonful  of  rice 
in  cold  water  and  mix  with  the  chicken.  Wash  a  teaspoonful 
of  pearl  barley  and  add  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cold  water. 
Put  the  whole  in  a  small  paper-bag  and  cook  for  forty  to  fifty- 
five  minutes  in  a  slow  oven  (300°  Fahr.). 

Chicken  Quennelle. 

Take  the  breast  of  one  Surrey  fowl,  add  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Pound  well, 
mix  in  one  egg,  pass  through  a  hair  sieve.  Place  in  a  bowl, 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream  and  stir  well.  Form  small 
quennelles  with  a  spoon,  place  in  a  well-buttered  bag,  lay 
carefully  on  a  grid,  and  cook  for  six  minutes  in  a  hot  oven 
(350°  Fahr.). 

Filleted  Poultry  for  Invalids. 

Mince  up  finely  a  carrot,  turnip,  and  onion,  add  a  little 
ham,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  salt,  and  place  at  the  bottom  of 
small  well-buttered  bag.  Slice  the  breast  of  a  fowl,  lay  the 
slices  on  the  prepared  vegetables,  sprinkle  with  oiled  butter. 
Seal  and  cook  six  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  Dish  the  fillets,  put 
the  vegetables  in  a  small  sieve,  press  lightly  and  pour  the 
gravy  over  the  fillets. 

Minced  Chicken  for  Invalid. 

Finely  mince  the  breast  of  a  chicken,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  little  salt.  Lay  in  a  small 
bag,  together  with  a  small  piece  of  toast  placed  at  the  side. 
Cook  for  five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  in  the  bag. 


422  STANDARD  COOKERY. 

Baked  Custard  for  Invalid. 

Peel  and  remove  the  seeds  from  a  slice  of  tomato,  add  a 
pinch  of  salt.  Break  three  eggs  and  place  the  yolks  in  a  bowl, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  and  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Place 
the  tomato  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  pie-dish,  stir  in  the  custard 
over  the  tomato,  place  in  a  bag,  seal,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes  in  a  slow  oven. 

Beef  Tea. 

Put  one  pound  of  beef  steak  in  a  paper  bag,  seal  it  and  put 
on  grid  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twelve  minutes.  Take  the 
parcel  and  place  on  a  dish.  Open  the  bag  and  you  will  find 
the  natural  gravy  on  the  dish.  Cut  the  steak  and  squeeze  the 
juice  from  it,  strain  into  a  hot  cup,  and  serve  at  once.  Season 
to  taste. 

Chicken  Tea. 

Cut  up  half  a  fresh  fowl.  Break  up  the  bones  with  a  chop- 
per. Place  in  paper  bag.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water, 
seal  up,  and  place  on  the  grid.  Allow  forty-five  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven.  Strain  as  in  the  foregoing  recipe  and  serve. 


THE    END 


INDEX 


BEVERAGES,  FRUIT  AND 
OTHERWISE 

PAGE 

Aromatic   Cup    ....  -JQO 

Bordeaux  Punch 400 

Cafe  Noir      ...  40  s 

Capillaire    Water    ...  398 

Chocolate 405,  406 

Claret   Cup 398 

Punch         .      .      .  097 

Club  Punch 398 

Cocoa     ^ 405,  406 

Coffee    a    la    Franchise     .  403 

Black   (Cafe  Noir)    ....  405 

Boiled         404 

Medicated,    for    Invalids    .      .  407 

Fruit     Punch 397 

Ginger    Punch 397 

Grape   Juice,    Unfermented    .      .  398 

Heidelberg  Punch 399 

Kirsch    and    Lemon      ....  399 

Kola 405 

Koumiss 400 

Lemonade 395 

Marmalade    Water        ....  396 

Mead 400 

Medicated  Coffee   for  Invalids   .  407 

Metheglin 399 

Mint     Julep 396 

Nonpareil     Cordial       ....  399 

Orange    Bichof 400 

Drink    (Hot) 396 

Orangeade 396 

Pineapple    Lemonade    ....  396 

Port  Wine  Negus 395 

Punch,    Cold 395 

Racahout 401 

Rhubarb    Water 400 

Sauterne    Cup 398 

Soyer's     Medicated     Coffee     for 

Invalids 407 

White     Wine    Fillip     ....  395 

BREAD,  ROLLS,  MUFFINS, 
BUNS  AND  PASTES 

Afternoon  Cakes 357 

Aniseed   Cakes 357 

Baking-Powder    Biscuit     .      .      .  349 

Boston  Brown  Bread   ....  342 

Bread;  After  Baking    ....  339 

Baking 339 

Dumplings  343 

For    Garnishing 348 

Making 338 

Brewis 348 

Brioches          354 

Buckwheat   Cakes 357 

Buns         345 

Butter    Cakes 354 

Cheese     Wafers 354 

Coffee   Cakes 344 


359 


Coffee     Rolls 

Corn  Cake  (with  Molasses)   . 
Cornmeal    Gems       .... 

Crullers 

Doughnuts,    Various    . 
Drop    Cakes,    Fried      . 

Rye  .... 

Dutch  Apple  Cake 

Emergency    Biscuit       .... 
French    Rolls,    Sweet    . 

Rusks         

German  Toast 

Ginger  Bread      

Golden    Corn    Cake      .... 

Graham  Bread 

Grecian    Easter    Cakes      .      .      . 
Griddle-Cakes,  Bread    .... 

Corn 

Entire    Wheat 

Rice 352 

Sour  Milk 

Sweet    Milk 

Health   Food  Muffins   .... 

Hominy   Gems 

Muffins 

Honey    Cakes  

Hot    Cross    Buns 

Lemon   Twists 

Luncheon    Rolls       .... 
Milk  and  Water   Bread    .      .      . 

Milk  Toast 

Muffins,    Berkshire       .... 

Grilled 

Health  Food 

Imperial 

Mountain 

Raised        ....... 

Raised   Hominy 

Raised  Oatmeal 

Raised    Rice        

Rye 

Oatmeal    Muffins 

Pop-Overs     ....... 

Rice    Muffins 

Rolled    Oats    Bread      .... 

Rum     Fingers 

Rings    .      

Rye    Biscuits 

Bread 341, 

Gems 

Muffins 

Scone    (Paper-Bag)       .... 

Cream         

Soyer's  Cake  without  Flour   .      . 

Sparrow     Cakes 

Spice   Cake 

Sponge  Cake  Tarts   .... 

Squash  Biscuits 

Supper  Cakes  

Tomato  Cream  Toast  .... 
Waffles 


PAGE 
344 
351 
350 
360 
,  360 
358 
359 
345 
349 
343 
344 
348 
353 
351 
341 
355 
353 
352 
352 
.  353 
352 
352 
347 
350 
346 
355 
345 
355 
343 
341 
348 
350 
346 
347 
347 
349 
346 
346 
347 
346 
350 
347 
351 
346 
342 
356 
356 
342 
342 
350 
350 
285 
349 
353 
355 
353 
356 
347 
356 
348 
357 


423 


424 


INDEX 


Waffles,   Raised       .     .  .  '35! 

Virginia     .      .  ,rg 

with  Boiled  Cider  .  .  358 
Water  Bread  .  . 

Toast  .  .  w 

White  Corn  Cake  ...  351 

Cornmeal  Cake  .  .  .  .  35i 

Wonders 354 

CAKE  FILLINGS.  FROSTINGS 
AND   ICINGS. 


Almond   Paste 

Boiled    Frosting 

Brown    Frosting 

Caramel    Frosting 

Chocolate,    (Boiled)    Frosting  364, 

Cream    Filling 

Filling \ 

Frosting ] 

Fudge  Frosting 

Icing 

Cocoanut    Filling 

Coffee  Cream  Filling  .... 

Butter 

Icing 

Confectioners'    Custard     .      .      . 

Frosting 

Cream    Fillings,    To    Make    .      . 

Fig   Filling 

Fondant    Icing 

Frangipan    Cream 

French  Cream  Filling  .... 

Gelatine    Frosting 

Ice    Cream    Frosting    .... 
Lemon  Cocoanut  Cream   .      .      . 

Filling 

Maple    Sugar    Frosting      .      .      . 
Marshmallow    Frosting 

Paste 

Milk    Frosting 

Mocha    Frosting 

Nut  Caramel   Frosting 
Nut  or   Fruit  Filling   .... 
Opera  Caramel  Frosting   . 
Orange  Filling 

Frosting 

Ornamental    Frosting   .      .         367, 

Pistachio    Paste 

Plain     Frosting 

Prune    Almond    Filling 
Strawberry     Filling       .... 

Transparent  Icing 

White   Mountain   Cream    .      .      . 

CEREALS,  DISHES  MADE 
WITH. 


Cereal  with   Fruit 371 

Cornmeal    Mush,    Fried    .      .      .  372 

Gnocci       . 381 

Hominy,    Fried 372 

Kedgeree     Custard       ....  380 

Macaroni   a   1'Italienne      .      .      .  374 

a   la   Napolitaine        ....  373 

and   Baked  Tomatoes     .      .      .  372 

and   Spaghetti,  Boiled   .      .      .  373 

Baked 374 

Buttered 373 

Cutlets 372 


368 

365 

36s 

.366 

.165 

361 

362 

364 

367 

369 

362 

361 

369 

368 

369 

363 

361 

362 

367 

369 

361 

363 

365 

362 

361 

365 

367 

363 

366 

367 

366 

362 

366 

362 

361 

368 

363 

364 

363 

361 

369 

364 


Macaroni    Pie 

Pontifical         

Macaroni  with  Cheese       .      .      . 

with  Tomato  Sauce  . 

with    Tomatoes 

with  White  Sauce  .  . 
Oatmeal  Mush  with  Apples  . 
Rice,  Carmelite 

Steamed 

Boiled 

with   Cheese    .... 

Fried 

Devilled 

a  1'Italienne 

and   Cabbage  made  with  Stock 

and   Cheese   Croquettes        .      . 

and    Chicken    Andalusien    . 

and  Tomato  Kedgeree   .      .      . 

Cakes    

Casolettes 

Fritters 

Pilaff   of 

Pudding 

Timbal  of,  with  Buttered  Eggs 

To    Boil 

Risotto  a   la  Milanaise      .      .      . 

Creole         

made    with    Stock      .... 
Semolina    Cakes 

Pudding 

Spaghetti    a    1'Indienne.    . 

Pudding 

Table    for   Cooking   Cereals    . 
Vermicelli     , 


PAGE 
372 
375 
374 
374 
372 
374 
37i 
376 
377 
377 
377 
378 
378 
378 
379 
379 
376 
379 
379 
380 
378 
380 
376 
380 
375 
378 
377 
379 
380 
38i 
38i 
38i 
371 


125 
126 
307 
127 
309 
1  1.  1 
309 
310 
308 
310 
309 
308 
312 
308 


CHEESE    DISHES    (.See    also   under 
"  SAVORIES  "). 

Artichokes   with    Cheese    . 
Asparagus  and  Cheese 
Baked    Cheese    Sandwiches 
Cabbage  with  Cheese  Sauce 
Cheese   and    Egg  Toast 

and    Macaroni    Balls 

Tartlets 

Biscuits 

Canapes      

Cream    Tartlets 

Creams  in  Cases       .... 

Croutons    

Custard 308, 

Custard    Pudding      .... 

Fingers       

Pastry 

Patties 

Cheese    Pudding 

Pie         

Puffets 

Souffle 

Straws 

"     and   Biscuits,    Pastry    for 

Tartlets 

Zephyrs      

French  Beans  with  Cheese  Sauce 
Parmesan   Eggs 

Puffs 

Potatoes  and   Cheese    .... 
Savory  Cheese  Pancakes   . 

made  with   Cheese   and   Cream 

(Paper-Bag) 

Welsh  Rarebit  . 


309 
308 
312 
307 
310 


310 
310 
310 
310 
126 
307 
307 
144 


3" 
307 


INDEX 


425 


COLORINGS,  ESSENCES  AND 
FLAVORINGS,  VARIOUS. 

PAGE 

Aromatic  Herbs,  List  of  ...  394 

Black  Jack,   or  Essence  Parisian  392 

Bouquet-Garni 394 

Essence    Parisian     (Black    Jack)  392 

Green   Spinach  Coloring   .      .      .  392 

Lemon   Essence 392 

Pungent    Flavorings     ....  394 

Saline   Seasonings 394 

Sel-a-Picer     (Spice     Salt)       .      .  393 

Soyer's    All-Spice 393 

Spice    Salt 394 

Vanilla    Essence 393 

CONSOMMES— SOUPS. 

Artichoke    Soup      .....  10 

Autumn    Soup    ......  8 

Barley    Soup 30 

Blackberry    Soup 33 

Bouillabaisse 25 

Cabbage    Soup 17 

Celery    Puree 17 

Cheese     Soup 34 

Chestnut  Soup 32 

Chicken    Consomm6      ....  3 

Chicory    Soup 16 

Chlodnik  Soup    (Rhubarb)      .      .  33 

Clear    Fish    Soup 3 

Game    Soup 3 

Soup i 

Vegetable  Soup 4 

Cod    Soup    ^ 23 

Consomme   a  L'Cossaise    ...  19 

Alexandra 9 

Ambassadeur 10 

Andalusien 12 

aux    Diablotins 31 

Boheme 12 

Bouquetiere 13 

Bourdaloue 15 

Brunoise 31 

Carmen 15 

Castellane 27 

Chartreuse 15 

Colombine 34 

Demidoff 6 

Deslignac 6 

Diplomate 27 

Divette 19 

Fermiere 13,   14 

Florentine 28 

Gauloise 19 

Printanier 5 

Printanier  aux  Quenelles   .      .  6 

Rachel 31 

Salburg 12 

Crecy  Soup n 

Creme  d'Artichoke  Soup   ...  1 1 

Croute  au  Pot 6 

Cucumber    Soup 18 

Duck  Soup 28 

Eel    Soup 25 

Egg   Soup      .      .      .      .,    .      •      •  35 

Farmer's   Soup    (Fermiere)    .       13.  *4 

Fish   Broth 24 

Consomme 3 

Soup 23 

Fisherman's   Soup    .....  26 

French    Cabbage   Soup      ...  7 


PAGE 

Frog    Soup 23 

Game  Soup 26 

Garbure    Soup 14 

Green    Pea   Soup    ....       n,  13 

Hare    Soup '27 

Haricot    Soup 30 

Hodge  Podge  (Mutton)   Soup     .  20 

Irish    Soup 22 

Italian   Paste  Soup       ....  32 

Jackson    Soup 17 

Jacqueline     Soup 28 

Julienne   Soup 8 

Leek   Soup 16 

Lemon    Soup 34 

Lenten  Broth   (Fish)    ....  24 

Lentil     Soup 29 

Liver  Soup 23 

Lobster    Soup 24 

Macaroni    Soup        ....       30,  32 

Maigre   Soup '6 

Mock  Turtle,    (White),   Soup      .  21 

Mutton   Broth 22,  23 

Soup    (Hodge  Podge)    ...  20 

Neapolitan    Soup 30 

Onion  and  Cheese  Soup   ...  16 

Broth 16 

Soup 15 

Maigre         7 

Ox-Cheek    Soup 21 

Ox-Tail    Soup 20 

Oyster    Soup 26 

Palestine  Soup n 

Pectoral     Broth 29 

Pepperpot 18 

Piedmontese     Soup       ....  17 

Pigeon    Broth 28 

Soup 29 

Portugaise    Soup 9 

Pot-au   Feu 19 

Potage     Bortsch 18 

Printaniere    Soup 5 

Pumpkin   Soup 33 

Punchero 22 

Puree    Bonne    Femme      ...  14 

of    Carrots n 

of  Vegetable   Soup    ....  7 

Rabbit    Soup 27 

Rhubarb     Soup     (Chlodnik)     .      .  33 

Rice    Soup 32 

Russian  Vegetable  Soup  (Tchi)  .  18 

Scotch   Cock-a-Leekie    ....  8 

Semolina  Soup 32 

Shrimp  Cream 25 

Stock  for  Brown    Sauce    ...  2 

Tchi    (Russian    Vegetable    Soup)  18 

Thick    Fish    Soup 4 

Tomato    Soup    (Portugaise)    .      .  9 

Turnip    Soup 18 

Vermicelli     Soup 31 

Watercress    Soup 16 

White    Mock-Turtle    Soup      .      .  21 

Thick     Stock     for     Soup     and 

Sauces    2 

Winter  Pea   Soup 12 


EGG-DISHES         (See      also 
"  SOUFFLES." 

Baked   Eggs 


under 


and   Tomatoes 
in    Cases       . 


202 
203 
202 


426 


INDEX 


.        .        .        .       200 

Mushrooms  200 
.  .  .  .  127 
207 

222 


Bercy    Eggs 207 

Birds'  Nest 205 

Broiled    Eggs 204 

Buttered  Eggs   .     , 
and 

Cabbage    and    Egg 
Carmelite    Eggs 
Cold  Eggs  a   1'Andalouse 

a  la  Neva  224 

a    la    Heine  224 

Argenteuil  222 

Capucin      .  223 

"       Careme       .  223 

"       Colbert       .  223 

Deutschland  224 

Frou-Frou  223 

Corn  and  Egg  Toast   ....  134 

and    Omelette 133 

with  Buttered  Egg   ....  133 

Creamed   Eggs 203 

Curried  Eggs 201 

Deviled    Eggs 208 

Egg   and    Cauliflower    Croustades  206 

and  Sausage  Salad  ....  205 

Cutlets 201 

Kromeskies 204 

Sandwiches 203 

a    la    Florence 208 

a  la  Lucerne 201 

a  la  Portugaise 209 

a    la    Reine 205,  209 

a  la  Tripe 213 

and   Artichokes 124 

and    Cheese 203 

and    Chestnuts 206 

and    Rice    Cutlets   with    Maca- 
roni           204 

au   Gratin        ....         203,  208 

en    Cocotte 213 

a    la    Jeanne      .      .  214 

a  la    Lorraine    .      .  214 

"         "        a    la    Soubise    .      .  214 

Roulotte       .      .      .214 

"         "        with    Cream      .      .  213 

"         "        with     Gravy       .      .  214 

"         "        with    Morels      .      .  214 

in     Batter 206 

in    Ramakin   Cases    ....  206 

Frintanier 215 

sur    la    Flat 204 

To    Cook    Soft-boiled      .      .      .  209 

with  Brown  butter    ....  207 

Fricassee  of  Eggs   .      .      .      .      .201 

Fried  Eggs 207,  218 

"     a   la   Bordelaise    .      .  218 

"     a  la   Fortugaise   .     .  218 

"     a    la    Frovenc.ale       .  219 

"     a   la    Romaine      .      .  219 

Hard-boiled    Eggs    Chimay      .      .  212 

"     in   Croquettes   .  212 

"               "     in    Rissoles        .  212 

Jockey  Club  Eggs 208 

Mirabeau     Eggs 208 

Molded    Eggs,     Neapolitan     .      .  214 

Palermitaine       .  215 

Mushrooms  and   Eggs        .      .      .  137 

CEufs  a  la   Reine 205 

Omelettes,  a  la   Bruxelloise   .      .  219 

a  la   Choisy 220 

tla   Lyonnaise 221 

la   Paysanne 221 


PAGE 

a  la  Provengale 221 

a  la  Rossini 222 

aux    Fines   Herbes    ....  220 

Breadcrumbs 198 

Charles    V 219 

Cheese 198 

Fermiere 220 

French 197 

French  Bean 198 

Green     Pea 198 

Jambon 198 

Mousseuse     ......  221 

Parmentier 221 

Potato 198 

Princesse 220 

Spanish 199 

Tomato       ....          .      .  199 

with    Artichoke    Bottoms    .      .  220 

with   Asparagus   Tops    .      .      .  221 

with    Cepes 219 

with    Chicken's    Liver    .      .      .  220 

with    Kidneys 222 

with  Mushrooms        ....  220 

with     Spinach 220 

with  Truffles 222 

Onion  Puree  with  Poached  Eggs  139 

Pacha    Eggs 208 

Parmentier    Eggs 208 

Piedmontese    Eggs        ....  207 

Poached   Eggs    .      .      .      199.  200,  209 

"         a     1'Aurore       .  210 

"         a  la  Bohemienne  210 

"         a   la    Bruxelloise  210 

"         a  la   Clamart   .  210 

"         a  la  Comtesse  .  211 

"         a  la  Reine  .      .  200 

and    Calves'    Live  200 

"         Argenteuil         .  210 

"         Boiel-Dieu         .  210 

"         Colbert   ...  210 

D'Orsay       .      .  211 

"         en    Berceau      .  210 

Grand     Due     .  211 

"         in    Rice    Cases  199 

Maintenon         .  211 

"         Massena             .  211 

Mornay              .  211 

Rossini                .  211 

Sevigne              .  212 

Victoria              .  212 

"         with    Curried    On 

ions      .      .      .  200 

Potatoes    and     Eggs    au    Gratin  141 

Princess   Eggs 215 

Savory     Eggs 201 

Scrambled    Eggs      .      .      .      .      .  215 

a  la  Piemontaise  217 

a    la    Portugaise  217 

Chasseur        .      .  216 

Chatillon        .      .  216 

Fines   Herbes     .  216 

Georgette     .      .  217 

Margot     .      .      .  217 

Orloff       ...  217 

Rachel      .      .      .  217 

Rothschild     .      .  218 

with    Cheese       .  217 

with    Morels       .  217 

with    Mushrooms  216 

with    Shrimps     .  216 

with    Truffles     .  218 


INDEX 


427 


PAGE 

Spinach  and  Eggs 147 

Stewed  Eggs  and  Cheese  .      .      .  204 

Stuffed    Eggs    a   la    Diable    .      .  205 
Vol   au   Vent   of  Asparagus  and 

Eggs 125 


ENTREES 


BEEF: — 

Amourettes 

Beef     Cake     

"     Gateau 

"     Mold 

"     Olives 

"     Scallop         

"     Suzette         ..... 

!     Timbole 

Bistecchi     

Casserole    of    Rice    with    Beef 

Cold    Pie         

Curry  of  Beef  (Paper- Bag) 
Dresden  Patties  .... 
Fillet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Mirande 

(Paper-Bag)  .  .  . 
Fillet  of  Beef  (Paper-Bag) 
Fillet  of  Beef  with  Shrimps 

Grenadin  of  Beef 

Hashed     Beef 

Marinated  Beef 

Minced    Cutlet 

Pickled     Steak 

Rolled    Beef         

Rolled   Beef    in    Jelly    .      .      . 
Roulade   de   Boeuf   a   la   Napo- 
litaine     (Paper-Bag) 

Sauerbraten 

Spanish  Onions  with  Kidneys 
Spiced  Pressed  Beef  .  .  . 
Steak  and  Kidney  Pie  .  .  . 

Pudding 

"  and  Tomato  Pudding  . 
Stewed  Kidneys  .... 
Stewed  Roast  Beef  .... 
Zrasi 

LAMB: — 

Braised     Leg     of,     .... 
Chops    a    la    Maintenon     . 
Stewed  Lamb's  Heart   . 
Stewed    Neck    of 

MINCED     MEAT: — 

Cassoulic 

Cottage    Pie 

Deviled    Meat 

Dumplings 

Meat    Macedoine       .... 

Roman    Pie 

Savory    Pasties 

with    Vegetable    Marrow    .     . 


MUTTON: — 

Bredee       .      .      . 
Broiled   Chop 
China    Stew    .      . 
Collops       .      .      . 
Cotelettes      a      la 
(Paper-Bag) 


Paysanne 


154 
154 

ISI 
156 

156 
154 
156 
157 
158 
158 
158 
187 
159 

IQO 

186 
1 60 

'I5 
160 

161 
161 
161 
162 
162 

195 
1 6.1 
166 
1 6.1 
164 
164 
164 
1 66 
165 
166 


1 68 
169 
169 
169 


185 
1 8.1 
184 
185 
179 
1 8.1 
184 
184 


169 
170 
1 80 
172 

191 


FAGS 

MUTTON,  Continued — 
Cotellettes     a     la     St.     Cecile 

(Paper-Bag)        ....  192 
Cotellettes         aux         Navettes 

(Paper-Bag)        ....  192 

Chops 174 

Chops     (Paper-Bag)      .      .      .      .  186 
Chops  a   la  1'Espagnol    (Paper 

Bag)          191 

Chops     a     1'Indienne     (Paper- 

Bag)    .......  193 

Chops        for        the        Nursery 

(Paper-Bag)        ....  193 

Chops     in     a     Hurry     (Paper- 
Bag)    192 

Deviled    Chops 170 

Dolmas 170 

Economical        Stew        (Paper- 
Bag)    194 

Frickadels 171 

Grilled    Fillets 171 

Hot    Pot 172 

Irish    Stew 172 

Irish    Stew    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  189 

Kidneys,    Stewed    (Paper-Bag)  189 
Mouton     Grille     a     1'Indienne 

(Paper-Bag)         ....  196 

Mutton     Chop     (Paper-Bag)      .  186 

'     Scalloped     .      .      .  174 

"         Steak    Pudding      .      .  174 

"         Stuffed     Shoulder     of  175 

"         Triple   Chops    .      .      .  174 

Sheep's    Kidneys    (Paper-Bag)  189 

PORK: — 

Brawn 176 

Chops 177 

Kluskis 177 

Lomo 177 

Poerkoell     (Pork     and     Veal)  177 


POULTRY   AND   GAME: — 

Chicken     Entree     (Paper-Bag) 
Chicken    or    Game    on    Spatch- 
cock    (Paper-Bag) 
Duck — Salmi  de  Caneton   (Pa- 


per-Bag) 
vl,  C 


Fowl,  Casserole  of   . 
Hare,     Jugged 
re,    Ro 


Hare,  Roasted  (Paper-Bag)  . 
Hare,  Stewed  (Paper-Bag)  . 
Pheasant : — Croustades  d  e 

Faisan        a       la        Royale 
(Paper-Bag)        .      .      .      . 

Pigeon    Pie 

Pigeons,    Salmi    of    .... 

Stewed 

Poultry,      Curry      of      (Paper- 
Bag)          

Rabbit,   Curried 

"         Fricassee    of       ... 

Olla    Podrida     .      .      . 

"         Roasted        (Paper-Bag) 

"          Stewed    (Paper-Bag)    . 

Venison,    Curried    (Paper-Bag) 

VEAL:— 

Baked         

Camelon    a  la    Royale    (Paper- 
Bag)    

China    Stew 


188 
194 

194 
167 
1 68 
188 
189 


190 
175 
175 
176 

187 
178 
178 
178 
188 
1 88 
190 


179 


195 
1 80 


428 


INDEX 


VEAL,    Continued — 

Coulibiac 180 

Cream 183 

Curry    of     (Paper-Bag)       .      .  187 

Forcemeat    Puddings      .      .      .  180 

Goulasch 180 

Kahab         180 

Kromeskies 181 

Minuten     Fleisch       ....  182 

Mock  Rabbit 182 

Punski 182 

Savory   Chops,    Spaghetti    .      .  182 
Veal    and     Ham     Pie     (Paper- 
Bag)    188 

Veal    Chop    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  186 

Fried    Liver 181 

Liver    Dumplings      ....  181 

VARIOUS: — 

Fish,    Cold    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  196 

Ham,    Baked 167 

Sausages  (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .  186 
Sweetbreads         au         Nature!, 

(Paper-Bag)         ....  187 
Sweetbreads,         Escalop         of 

(Paper-Bag)        .      .      .      .  186 
Sweetbreads,      Fancy      (Paper- 
Bag)    186 

Sweetbreads,     Grilled     .      .      .  179 

Tongue,    Hashed       ....  179 


FISH   AND    FISH    SAUCES 

Anchovy    Custards    on    Toast    .  309 

Bacalao  (Cod) 69 

Bass 68 

Brill 68 

Brill  a  la  Comtesse   (Paper-Bag)  no 

Carp,    Baked 68 

Sauce  Matelote 68 

Stewed         69 

Cod  a   la    Comtesse    (Paper-Bag)  110 

a    la    Valeska    (Paper-Bag)     .  107 

Boiled  Crimped 69 

Bourgeoise     (Paper-Bag)     .      .  105 

Crab  au  Gratin 70 

Crabs   and  Tomatoes    ....  70 

Crevettes     Marie 93 

Croquettes,    Fish    (Paper-Bag)     .  106 

Eel,  Conger 71 

Eels    a    la    Tartare     ....  71 

Fried 70 

on   the    Spit 71 

Spitchcocked         71 

Stewed 70 

Stewed     (Paper-Bag)     ...  105 

Fish,     Broiled 97 

Chartreuse q8 

Fish,    Cooked    a   la   Meuniere      .  67 
Fish,    Cooked    on    a    Spit:    a    la 

Broche 66 

Frying  a  la   Frangaise    ...  66 

"     a    TAnglaise       ...  66 

Klosh 98 

Matelote 99 

on    the    Plate    (Sole)     ...  91 

Salad 98 

Stew 98 

Flounders,    Water    Souchet    .      .  71 
French    Anglers'    Way    of    Stew- 
ing    Fish 100 


PAGE 

Frogs  Legs,  Fried 99 

Grilled  Fish 66 

Gurnets 72 

Haddock  a  la  Princesse   (Paper- 
Bag)        .106 

a  la   Royale    (Paper-Bag)    .      .  106 

and    Asparagus 72 

Baked 73 

Dublin    Bay 72 

Fresh,     Stuffed,     (Paper-Bag)  106 

Smoked     (Paper-Bag)     .      .      .  106 

Hake     (Paper-Bag)       ....  107 

a    la    Valeska    (Paper-Bag)     .  107 

Halibut 73 

a  la  Minute  (Paper-Bag)    .      .  107 

Herrings  a  la  Russe  (Paper-Bag)  107 

Herrings,     Fresh     (Paper-Bag)  108 

Sauce  Dijon 73 

John   Dories 74 

Kippers     and     Bloaters     (Paper- 
Bag)^      108 

Lobster    a    1'Americaine    (Paper- 
Bag)        108 

Mackerel   a   la  Maitre  d'Hotel    .  74 

a    la    Napolitaine    (Paper-Bag)  108 

Baked 75 

To    Stew 74 

Mullet,     Red     or     Grey     (Paper- 
Bag)       77,  78,   108 

Perch 78 

Pike 78 

with    Cream 79 

Plaice    a    la    Meuniere     (Paper- 
Bag) 109 

Filleted,        a        la        Comtesse 

(Paper-Bag) no 

Preparation     de     la     Mousse    de 

Tomates 92 

Salmon    (Paper-Bag)    .     .      .      .  no 

a    la    Daumont 82 

Boiled 79 

Broiled 79 

Cold 84 

Salmon,  Coulibiac  of  .      .      .         80,  8 1 

Croquettes 81 

"         (Paper-Bag)          .      .  106 

Chops 80 

Darne  de  Saumon  a  Chambord  82 

Darne  de  Saumon  a  la  Royale  84 

Froid    a    la    Norvegienne    .      .  84 

Kedgeree  of 79 

Mayonnaise 85 

Medallion  de   Saumon   .      .  85 

Mousseline   Alexandra   .      .  83 

Salade  de   Saumon    ...  85 

Saumon    Froid    en    Bellevue  84 

Slice    a    Royale    ....  83 

Slices    a    Lucullus    ...  83 

"     a    Nesselrode    ...  83 

Stewed 81 

Scallops   (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .      .  110 

Shad,  Baked 81 

Shrimps,  Fried 70 

Skate 85 

au  Beurre  Noir 86 

Smelts      Milanaise      (Paper-Bag)  no 

Stuffed 86 

To    Fry 86 

Snails    in    Shells 99 

Sole    a    la    Daumont    ....  88 

a    la    Meuniere 87 


INDEX 


429 


Sole,    Ambassadeur      .. 
Arlesienne 
au  Gratin 

Bourguigone     (Paper-Bag) 
Colbert 


PAGE 

90 
87 
90 
109 
88 

Duglere      .......  89 

Fermiere    .......  89 

Florentine        ......  90 

Grillee        .......  89 

Grillee  a  1'Americaine   ...  89 

Hollandaise     ......  89 

Lemon,  a  la  Comtesse  (Paper- 

Bag)        .......  109 

Mornay      .......  88 

Portugaise       ......  90 

Provengaux     ......  88 

sur   le    Plat    ......  90 

Soles  aux  Fines  Herbes  ...  87 

Fried     ........  86 

Plain     ........  87 

Saute   in   Oil    ......  87 

Soyer        Pike        Quenelles        or 

Souffles         ......  75 

Sprats   (Paper-Bag)    .        ...  no 

Sturgeon,    Economical    Mode    of 

Cooking        ......  91 

Sturgeon,    To    Roast    ....  91 

Tench,    Stewed        .....  91 

with   Anchovy    Butter    ...  92 

Trout        ........  9.3 

a  la  Burton    ......  94 

a    la    Soyer    (Paper-Bag)    .      .  in 

a    la    Twickenham    ....  93 

Salmon       .......  92 

Stuffed        .......  94 

Truite    a    la    Cambaceres    .      .  92 

Tunny       ........  94 

Turbot      ........  94 

(Paper-Bag)    ......  no 

a    la    Creme    ......  95 

a    la    Frangaise    .....  95 

Stewed        .......  95 

White    Fish,    Light,    (Paper-Bag)  112 
Whitebait     ......       96,  97 

Deviled       .......  97 

Whiting  a  la  Normande   (Paper- 

Bag)    ........  "i 

au  Gratin  .......  97 

Fines    Herbes     (Paper-Bag)     .  in 

Fried     ....'...•  97 

FISH    SAUCES:  — 

Anchovy  Butter  .....  104 

Sauce         .     .     .     .  101 

Cream     Sauce       .....  103 

Egg   Sauce      ......  101 

Fennel    Sauce      .....  101 

Lobster    Butter    .....  104 

Sauce      .....  ioi 

"                 a   la    Creme      .      .  102 

"                  (Economical)     .      .  102 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter   ...  105 

Matelote    Sauce    .....  104 

Melted    Butter     .....  100 

Mussel    Sauce       .....  103 

Oyster    Sauces     ....  102,   103 

Ravigote  Butter   .....  105 

Shrimp     Sauce     .....  101 

FRUITS:   FRESH  AND  PRE- 

SERVED. 

(See   also   under    "  JELLIES    ). 

Apple    Ginger     ......  320 


Apple  Sauce 

Apples,  Baked 

Bananas,  Baked 

Sauted 

Canteloupes,  To  prepare  .  .  . 
Cranberry  Jelly 

Sauce  

Fruit  Cocktail 

Salad 

Grape  Fruit,  To  prepare  .      .      . 

with  Apricot  Brandy 

with    Sloe    Gin    .      . 

Grapes,    To    prepare    .... 

Oranges,  To  prepare   .... 

Peaches,  Baked 

Pears,  Baked 

Pears,  Border  of 

Prunes,  Stewed  ., 

Quinces,  Baked 

Rhubarb  Sauce  

Strawberries,  To  prepare  . 

HORS-D'CEUVRES,    WITH 
VARIOUS   BUTTERS. 

Anchovies,  Rolled 

Anchovy    Allumettes    .... 

Fillets 

Paupiettes    of 

with     Pimentos 

Aries  Sausages 

Artichoke    Bottoms       .... 

Blinis  of   Caviare 

Bologne   Sausages 

Brains  Nievise 

Canapes  and  Toast  .... 
Caviare,  Blinis  of  .... 

Duchesses 

Toast 

Celeriac          

Celery,  a  la  Grecque   .... 

"  Bpnne-Femme  " 
Cherries    a    1'AIlemande    . 

Christiana    Toast 

Creams,    Molded 

Cucumber    a   la    Nevegrode    . 

Salad 

Stuffed       ....... 

Duchesses 330, 

Eel,    au    Vert 

with  White  Wine  and  Paprika 
Eggs,  Hard-boiled  as  a  basis  for 

Hors-d'CEuvres 

Elena    Toast 

Fennel  a  la  Grecque  .... 
Fote-Gras 

Sausages     

Goose,    Smoked   Breast   of      .      . 
Hamburg  Beef,   Smoked    . 
Herrings  a   la   Russe    .... 

a  la   Simone 

Filleted    Salted,   Salad  of   .      . 

Herrings,    Fresh,    Marinaded    in 

White    Wine 

Lucas 

Paysanne 

Jannette,    various 

Lark    Pate 

Lyons    Sausages      

Melon  with  Port,  etc 

Norwegian  Duchesses  .... 


PAGE 
320 
320 
320 
321 
318 
321 
321 
319 
322 
319 
319 
319 
318 
318 
321 
321 
322 
321 
321 
322 
318 


325 
325 
325 
32S 
326 
324 
326 
328 
334 
329 
327 
328 
330 
327 
329 
328 
328 
329 
327 
330 
329 
330 
329 
331 
326 
326 


328 
331 
331 
334 
333 
326 
332 
332 
331 

331 
331 
332 
328 
334 
334 
3.32 
331 


430 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Olives,    Plain 333 

Stuffed 333 

Oysters 332 

Red  Mullet  a  la  Greque   .      .      .  334 

Salami 334 

Salmon,  Smoked 335 

Duchesses    .      .      .  331 

Shrimp    Toast 327 

Soyer's       Sauce       Ravigote,       or 

Mayonnaise   without    Eggs    .  336 

Sprats 335 

Tartlets  and   Barquettes    .      .      .  335 

Tomatoes  a  1'Americaine  .      .      .  336 

Monegasque 336 

Quartered 336 

Tongue   Toast 327 

Trout,  Marinaded 336 

Tunny   in    Oil 335 

with    Tomatoes 336 

VARIOUS    BUTTERS   FOR  HORS- 
o'CEuvRES: — 

Anchovy  Butter 323 

Butter,    Clarified,   To    Make    .  323 

Caviare   Butter 323 

Caviare    Cream 324 

Chicken   Cream 321; 

Crayfish    Butter 323 

Curry    Butter 323 

Game  Cream 324 

Horse-Radish    Butter     .      .      .  324 

Lobster    Butter 324 

"       Cream 324 

Paprika    Butter          ....  324 

Pimento   Butter 324 

Red    Herring    Butter    .      .      .  324 

Salmon  (smoked),  Butter  .      .  324 

Cream        .      .  325 

Shrimp    Butter 323 

Tunny    Cream 325 

INVALID    COOKERY    (SOYER'S 
PAPER-BAG). 

Sweetbread    Mackenzie      .      .      .  420 

Chicken    and    Rice   Tea    .      .      .  421 

"         Quennelle 421 

Filleted     Poultry 421 

Minced    Chicken 421 

Baked  Custard 421 

Beef    Tea 422 

Chicken    Tea 422 

Soyer's   Medicated    Coffee      .      .  407 

JELLIES,   JAMS,   PRESERVES 
AND  FRUIT  PICKLES 

(.See  also  under  "  FRUITS  "). 

Canning    and     Preserving,     Gen 

eral  Instructions   .      .  302 

Cherries,     Preserved     .      .  303 

Chili     Sauce       ....  306 

Currants,    Spiced    .      .      .  305 

Damsons,    Preserved     .      .  304 

Freezing  Mixture    for   Ices  295 

Huckleberries,     Preserved  303 

Ices,   Freezing  Mixture  for  295 

Jam,    Blackberry 300 

Raspberry 300 

Jellies,  Preparation  of  Molds  for  295 

Jelly,     Apple 29$ 


PACK 
297 
299 
299 
297 
298 
298 
299 
300 
299 
298 
299 
299 

300 

,  301 
301 
300 
305 
304 
302 
306 
303 
306 
305 
303 
301 
303 
304 
303 
304 
306 

,  305 
304 


Jelly    Aspic 

Barberry 

Blackberry 

Calves'  Feet 

Crab    Apple 

Currant 

Currant    and    Raspberry     . 

Damson 

Grape    

§uince 
aspberry        

for  Venison 

Marmalade,  Grape 

Orange      300 

Orange   and    Rhubarb    .      .      . 

Quince 

Melon    Rind,    Preserved    .      .      . 
Peaches,  Brandied 

Preserved        

Sweet    Pickled 

Pears,    Preserved 

Sweet    Pickled 

Peppers,    Red,    Preserved 
Pineapples,     Preserved       .      .      . 

Quince  Honey 

Quinces,  Preserved  .... 
Raspberry  and  Currant  Preserve 
Rhubarb,  Preserved  .... 
Strawberries,  Preserved  .  .  . 
Tomato  (Ripe),  Pickle  . 
Tomatoes,  Preserved  .  .  .  303 
Tutti  Frutti 


JEWISH  DISHES. 

SOUPS: — 

Barsht 408 

Einlauf 410 

Fruit    Sonp 410 

Mazzakloyss 409 

Pesach    Barsht 409 

Shabbos     Shalend     ....  409 

Yontuffsup 409 

FISH: — 

Gafillte  Fisch 410 

Jewish  Method  of  Frying  Fish  4" 

MEAT    AND    GAME: — 

Annastich 412 

Descaides 411 

Gafillte     Milz 4" 

Krepplekh 412 

VEGETABLES: — 

Krosphada 412 

Tsimess 412 

SALADS: — 

Salt  Herring  Salad  ....  412 

SWEETS    AND     CAKES: — 

Almond     Pudding     ....  414 

Egg     Marmalade       ....  414 

Gefulde    Boterkoek    ....  415 

Kindlekh          4*3 

Kremslekh 4*3 

Lamplich 414 

Macrotes 4*5 

Mlinczki .  4' 3 

Ramakins   of  Egg  and   Cheese  414 

JOINTS 

Beef,   Boiled   Salt 226 

Roast   (Paper-Bag)    ....  228 

Savory    Round   of    ....  226 


INDEX 


431 


Fowl,  How  to  Roast  .     .     .     . 
Hints  about  Roasting  Meat   .      . 
Lamb,    Stuffed    Loin    of    . 
Mutton,   Baked   Leg   of    .      .      . 

Larded   Leg  of 

Mutton  (Paper  Bag)  .  .  .  . 
Pork  (Paper-Bag)  .  .  .  . 
Veal  (Paper-Bag)  .  .  .  . 

Baked  Fillet  of  .... 

Rolled         

Stuffed    Breast    of    .      .      .      . 
Venison    (Paper-Bag) 

PAPER-BAG  COOKERY 

(SOYER'S). 
FISH: — 

Brill,     Filleted 

Cod   a   la   Valeska    .... 
Cod  Bourgeoise 

Filleted        .... 

Cold   Fish 

Eels,     Stewed 

Fish  Croquettes 

Haddock,   a  la   Princesse    . 

a     la     Royale     .      .      . 
(Fresh)     Stuffed     .      . 

"         Smoked          .... 
Hake,  a  la  Valeska       .      .      . 
Halibut,   a  la   Minute    . 
Herrings,   a  la   Russe    .      .      . 

Fresh        

Kippers    or     Bloaters     . 
Lobster    a    I'Americaine      .      . 
Mackerel,  a  la  Napolitaine  . 
Mullet,  ^Red   or    Gray    .      .      . 
Plaice,  a  la  Meuniere    . 
Plaice,     Filleted         .... 

Salmon 

Scallops 

Smelts    Milanaise      .... 
Sole    Bourgigone       .... 

"     Filleted 

'     (Lemon)    a    la    Comtesse 

Sprats 

Trout    a   la    Soyer    .... 

Turbot 

White  Fish  a  la  Soyer  .      .      . 
Whiting,   a  la   Normande    . 

"         Fines    Herbes 
POULTRY  : — 

Chicken,    Bruxelloise 

Roast 

Cold     Poultry 

Curry    of    Poultry    .... 
Duckling  with  Turnips  .      .      . 

Fowl,    Various 

Goose 

Pheasant 

Pigeon        ....... 

Poulet    a    I'Americaine 

"         a    la     Marseilles     . 

"         a    la    Reine        .      .'    . 

"         aux   Olives    .... 

?uail,    Roast 
urkey 119. 

VEGETABLES: — 

Asparagus        

Beans,     Broad 

Marrow,  Vegetable   .... 

Mushrooms 

Peas 


PAGE 
225 
225 
227 
227 
227 
229 

22g 

III 

228 
228 
229 


no 
107 
105 
no 
196 
105 
1  06 
106 
106 
1  06 
106 
107 
107 
107 
108 
1  08 
108 
1  08 

I  08 
109 
no 
no 

110 

no 
109 

110 
109 

IIO 

III 

IIO 
112 

II  I 
III 

1  2O 

119 
196 
187 

I2O 
119 
1  2O 
122 
120 
121 
121 
I2O 
122 
I2O 
I2O 


IS2 
152 


153 
152 
152 


PAGE 

Potatoes: — 

"      Baked      .     .     . 
"       New         .      .      . 
Pommes   Chateau 
Pommes    Maitre 

d'Hotel       ....      153 
Pommes    Paysanne      .      152 

Spinach 153 

Tomatoes         ....  .151 

ENTREES:— 

Beef,    Curry  of 187 

"     Fillet    of 186 

"     Fillet     de     Bceuf     a     la 

Mirande         ....      190 
'     Roulade    de    Bceuf    a    la 

Napolitaine          .      .      .      195 

Chicken,    Entree    of      .      .      .      188 

on  _  Spatchcock       .      .      194 

Duck,    Salmi   de   Caneton    .      .      194 

Hare,    Roasted 188 

"     Stewed 189 

Irish    Stew 189 

Mutton: — 
Chop   .          .....  185,  186 

Cotelettes   a   la    Paysanne          191 
a    la    St.    Cecile 
aux    Navettes 
Chops   a   1'Espagnol    . 
a  Tlndienne   . 
for  the  Nursery 
"         in   a    Hurry    . 
Economical    Stew 

Irish     Stew 189 

Kidneys 189 

Mouton     Grille     a     1'Indienne     196 
Pheasant:        Croustades         de 

Faisan    a   la    Royale    .      .     190 

Pork 189 

Rabbit,   Roasted 188 

Stewed 188 

Sausages 186 

Sweetbreads,   Au  Naturel    .      .      187 
"         Escalop   of      ...      186 

"         Fancy 186 

Veal 189 

"     Cannelon   a   la    Royale    .      195 

'     Chop 186 

"     Curry   of     .....      187 
"     and  Ham  Pie   .      .      .      .      188 
Venison,     Curried     ....      190 
JOINT: — 

Beef,     Ribs,     Round     of,     Sir- 
loin    of         228 

Mutton 229 


193 
192 
191 
19.3 
193 
192 
194 


Pork 

Veal 

Venison  and  Sauce   .... 
SWEETS  AND   PASTRY: — 
Apples: — 

Dumpling         .... 

"       Petit   Nid        .... 

Pommes   a    la    Duchesse 

"       Pommes    a    la   Mascotte 

Bananas     .  ^ 285 

Beignets       a       la       Portugaise 

(Rice) 287 

Cakes,    various 285 

Genoise    Paste 285 

Pudding    a    la    Baronne     .      .     287 
"  a    la    Mayence    .      .     286 

"  a    la    Munich     .      .     286 


229 
229 
229 


284 
285 
286 
287 


432 


INDEX 


PAGE 

284 
284 
28S 
284 


389 
390 
388 

391 
390 

389 
391 


389 

389 
391 


390 
390 


SWEETS   AND   PASTRY,    Continued- 
Puff    Paste 

Sausage     Rolls 

Scone    

Tart  in  a   Pie-dish    .      .      .      . 
BREAKFAST    DISHES: — 
Eggs : — 

CEufs    a    la    Bechamel    .      . 
CEufs    a    la    Tripe     .      .      . 
CEufs   aux  Tomates    .      .      . 
Fish:— 

Bloaters    auy    Fines    Herbes 
Crab,      Marechale      de     Ho- 

mard    aux    CEufs     . 
Haddock,   Merluche  Fume  a 

la    Milanaise       . 
Kippers    aux    Fines    Herbes 
Lobster,    Marechale    de    Ho- 

mard    aux    CEufs    . 
Mackerel,     Kippered,     Fines 

Herbes 

Soles,  Filleted,  Fines  Herbes 
Foie  Gras: — 

Croutes       Strasbourg       aux 

CEufs 

Riz    a    la     Strasbourg     . 
Ham: — 

Jambon    Milanaise      .      .      . 
Rice: — 

Riz    aux    Crevettes     .      .      . 
Riz  a  la  Strasbourg  . 
Tomatoes: — 

Stuffante    a    la    Milanaise    . 

A      Week's      Dinners      for      the 

Working-Man's      Home      by 

Paper-Bag    Cookery    .      .41 

INVALID    COOKERY: — 

Beef  Tea 

Chicken    and    Rice    Tea 
Minced     ... 
"      Quennelle 
"       Tea     .... 
Coffee,  Soyer's  Medicated 
Custard,   Baked    .      . 
Poultry,     Filleted      .      . 
Sweetbread  Mackenzie  . 

POULTRY  AND  GAME. 


Capon    with    Apples    .      .      .      .  117 
Chicken,      Bruxelloise      (Paper- 
Bag)        120 

Cannelons 116 

Cream 115 

Fried tx6*  I  Ze 

Liver  and  Ham 113 

Rissoles 117 

Roast   (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .      .  119 

Steamed 117 

Stewed 113,  no 

Stewed,   with   Rice    .      .      .      .  115 

Stuffed 113 

with   Cheese 116 

with    Tomatoes 116 

Duck   Pie 114 

Duckling,    Aylesbury,    with    Tur- 
nips    (Paper-Bag)       .      .      .  120 
Fowl,    Boiled,    etc.    (Paper-Bag)  119 

Stewed       . 116 

Jacobin"  Pottage  (Minced  Poul- 
try)   115 


391 


390 
390 


390 


6-420 

422 
421 
421 
421 
422 
407 
421 
421 
421 


PAGE 

Larks   in    Onions 114 

Partridge  au  Choux  .  .  .  .  118 
Partridges  with  Cabbage  .  .  .  115 
Pheasant  (Paper-Bag)  .  .  .  122 
Pigeon  (Paper-Bag)  ....  120 
Poulet  a  1'Americaine  (Paper- 
Bag)  121 

a    la     Marseilles     (Paper-Bag)  121 

a    la    Reine    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  120 

aux    Olives    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  122 

Poultry    Cassolette        .      .      .      .  115 

Quail,    Roast    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  120 

Rabbit    Cake 114 

Pie 114 

Turkey,  Baked 113 

Boiled,     etc.     ^Paper-Bag)    116,  119 

Venison,   Stewed 115 

Woodcock,    Stewed      .      .      .      .  117 

SAUCES— VARIOUS  (.see  also 
under  "  FISH   SAUCES  "). 

Anchovy    Butter    Sauce    ...       62 

Apple  Sauce 52 

Bearnaise    Sauce 44 

Bearnaise    Tomatee    Sauce     .      .       43 

Bechamel     Sauce 38 

Bercy    Butter 555 

Black    Butter 58,  6± 

Bourgeoise   Sauce 

Bread    Sauce 

Brown    Chaud-Froid    Sauce    .      . 

Roux 

Sauce   (Espagnole)    .... 
Butter  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel   .      . 

a    la    Meuniere 

Sauce          

Cambridge    Sauce 

Cameline    Sauce 

Caper     Sauce     

Cardinal    Sauce 

Celery     Sauce 

Chasseur    Sauce 

Chateaubriand  Butter  .... 

Sauce    

Chaud-Frqid    Sauce    au    Vert-Pie 

Sauce    in    Variety    .... 

Cherry    Sauce 

Chivry    Sauce 

Choron    Sauce    

Colbert  Butter 

Cranberry    Sauce    

Crayfish    Butter 

Cream   Sauce 

Cucumber    Sauce 

Cullises,   Various 

Cumberland    Sauce       .... 

Curry    Sauce 

Deviled    Sauce 

Dutch    Sauce 

Egg   Sauce 

Eschalot    Sauce 

Espagnole    (Brown   Sauce)    . 

Fennel    Sauce 

Fish    Veloute 

Garlic    Sauce 

Genoa     Sauce     ...... 

Gloucester    Sauce 

Gooseberry   Sauce    ..... 
Grand-Veneur   Sauce   .... 


63 
52 
40 
36 
36 

15 

45 

II 

45 
46 
52 
40 

5£ 
46 

46 
40 
64 
47 

II 

52 
57 
47 
60 
56 
55 
47 
41 
64 
52 
60 
36 

ii 

61 
53 
55 
48 
41 


INDEX 


433 


PAGE 

Green    Coloring    Butter    ...  56 

Half  Glaze 37 

Hazel-Nut  Butter 58 

Herb     Sauce 48 

Horse-Radish    Sauce    ...       53,  55 

Hungarian    Sauce 48 

Italian    Herb    Sauce    ....  60 

Italian    Sauce 41 

Jerusalem   Artichoke    Sauce    .      .  63 

Lent  Chaud-Froid  Sauce  ...  47 

Liaison    of    Eggs 62 

Lobster    Butter 57 

Lyonnaise    Sauce 41 

Madeira  Sauce 42 

Maitre    d'    Hotel    Sauce    ...  59 

Manied     Butter 57 

Mariniere     Sauce 49 

Marrow  Sauce 42 

Mayonnaise     Sauce       .      .      .       53,  54 

Melted    Butter 58 

Mince  Herb  Sauce       ....  60 

Mint  Sauce 61 

Montpellier     Butter     ....  58 

Mornay   Sauce 49 

Mousseuse    Sauce 49 

Mushroom    Sauce    ....       46,  61 

Mustard     Sauce 49 

Nantua   Sauce 49 

Noisette  Sauce 50 

Normande    Sauce 50 

Onion    Puree    Sauce    ....  63 

Orange    Sauce 61 

Oriental  Sauce 50 

Oxford    Sauce 55 

Oyster    Sauce 48 

Pale    Roux 36 

Papillotte    Sauce 62 

Parsley   Sauce S3 

Perizueux    Sauce 42 

Pignons  Sauce   42 

Piquant,    or    Sharp    Sauce     .      .  60 

Pistachio    Butter 59 

Poivrade   Sauce 43 

Poulette     Sauce 50 

Printanier   Butter 59 

ProvenQak    Sauce 43 

Puree    of     Cauliflower    Sauce     .  63 

Ravigote     Butter 56 

Ravigote   Sauce    .      .     50,  54,  61,  336 

Reform     Sauce 53 

Remoulade     Sauce 54 

Rouennaise     Sauce 44 

Roux,    Brown 36 

Pale 36 

White 36 

Sauce    Albufera 48 

Bercy 45 

Bordelaise 39 

Diplomate 48 

Hollandaise 39 

Sauce  Joinville 49 

Piquante 42 

Robert 61 

Supreme 5* 

Shallot   Butter 57 

Sauce 60 

Shrimp  Butter 57 

Sauce 47 

Soubise   Sauce 50 

"            Tomatee        ...  51 


PAGE 

Soyer's   Sauce 62 

"       Ravigote,      or      Mayon- 
naise   without    Butter  336 

Tarragon    Butter 57 

Sauce 60 

Tartar    Sauce 59 

Thickened    Gravy 41 

Tomato  Sauce 39,  62 

Torture  Sauce 44 

Valois    Sauce 45 

Various  Cullises 56 

Veal    Gravy   Tomate      ...  41 

Vegetable    Sauce     ...  59 

Veloute  de  Volaille      ....  38 

Veloute  Sauce 37 

Venetian    Sauce 51 

Venison  Sauce 44 

Sauce   (Paper-Bag)    ....  229 

Villeroy  Sauce 51 

White  Bordelaise   Sauce    ...  45 

Chaud-Froid  Sauce   ....  46 

Roux 36 

Wine   Sauce    ......  51 

Sauce 62 

Wine    Sauce 65 

SAVORIES    (.see    also    under 
"  CHEESE  DISHES  "). 

Cheese  Biscuit  (Paper-Bag)    .      .  313 

Crab       and       Crayfish       (Paper- 
Bag)        313 

Filleted  Deviled  Kipper  on  Toast 

(Paper-Bag)       .      .      .      .      .  312 

Savory    made    with    Cheese    and 

Cream     (Paper-Bag)     .      .  312 

of    Lobster    (Paper-Bag)     .      .  312 

•Oysters    (Paper-Bag)     .      .      .  313 

Soft  Roe  a  la  Soyer  (Paper-Bag)  312 

SOUFFLES    AND    SOUFFLE 
OMELETTES. 

General    Directions       .      . 
Apricot     Fritters     . 

Souffle 

Banana    Fritters 
Beetroot    Fritters    . 
Chocolate    Souffle    .      .      . 
Cornflour  Fritters    .      .      . 
Croquettes    of    Fruit    . 
Custard     Fritters     .      . 

Fried     Puffs 

Indian    Fritters 

Orange     Souffle       .      .      . 

Prune    Souffle    .... 

Raspberry   Souffle    . 

Rice   and   Apple    Souffle    . 

Fritters 

Souffle  Fritters  .... 
Spanish    Fritters     .      .     . 


289 
291 
289 
292 
292 
290 
293 
292 
293 
293 
293 
290 
290 
291 
291 
293 
294 
294 


SWEETS  AND   PASTRY 


Pastry,    How    to    Make    .      .230,  231 
Batter     for     Frying     ....     233 

Brioche     Paste         233 

Cakes,  Various  (Paper-Bag)   .      .      285 

Choux    Paste 234 

Dripping  Crust 234 


434 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Flaky  Paste 234 

Flead     Crust 234 

French    Crust 235 

Genoese     Paste 235 

Pastry 236 

Genoise     Paste     (Paper-Bag)     .  285 

Neapolitan    Paste 236 

Pancake     Batter 236 

Paste  for  Raised  Pies  ....  236 

To   Keep 237 

Transparent 237 

Pate  Brisee  (French  Crust)    .      .  235 

Potato     Paste 237 

Puff   Paste    .      .      .  231,  232,  235,  238 

Puff  Paste    (Paper-Bag)    ...  284 

Rough,   or  Half-Puff   Paste    .      .  238 

Short    Crust 239 

Plain 239 

Rich 239 

Suet   Crust 240 

for    Meat    Pies    .      .  240 

Rich 239 

Sweet    Paste,    for    Tartlets    .      .  240 

Tarts,    Tartlets,    etc 241 

Alma      Pudding,      Steamed      and 

Baked 241 

Almond  Pudding,  Baked  .      .      .  241 

Apple    Amber    Pudding     .      .      .  242 

Apples,    Baked 242 

Apple     Charlotte     ....  242,  243 

Cheese-cakes 243 

Apple     Dumplings,     Baked     and 

Boiled 244 

Dumpling  (Paper-Bag)   .      .      .  284 

Pie  . .  247 

Pudding,    Baked  and   Boiled    .  244 

Tart 247,  248 

Timbale 248 

Apple    and    Rice 245 

and     Sago 245 

Buttered 246 

Flaming            246 

Flan    of 262 

Miroton 247 

Snow 246 

with  Custard 245 

Arrowroot   Pudding,   Baked    .      .  248 

Steamed     .      .      .  249 

Austrian  Pudding 249 

Baba    with    Rum    Syrup    .      .      .  249 

Babas  with  Kirsch 250 

Bachelor's    Pudding      .      .      .      .251 

Baroness  Pudding 251 

Batter    Pudding,    Baked    .      .      .251 
Beignets        a        la        Portugaise 

(Paper-Bag) 287 

Berlin   Pudding 251 

Black-Cap     Pudding     ....  252 

Black    Currant    Tartlets    .      .      .  252 

Brandy    Pudding 253 

Bread-and-Butter    Pudding, 

Baked 253 

Bread-and-Butter   Pudding, 

Steamed 254 

Bread    Cutlets 253 

Brown    Bread    Pudding    .      .      .  253 

Cabinet   Pudding 254 

Canadian  Pudding 255 

Caramel    Pudding 255 

Rice    Pudding 255 


PAGE 

Cassell  Pudding 256 

Cherry  Tartlets 252 

Chestnut  Pudding  .  .  .  256,  257 

Amber 256 

Chocolate  Pudding  .  .  .  257,  258 

Tartlets 258 

Christmas  Pudding  .  .  .  258,  259 

Corn  Pudding 259 

Cornflour  Pudding  ....  259 
Cranberry  Pudding  ....  260 

Cream  Buns 260 

Croquets  of  Rice 260 

Currant  Pudding,  Boiled  .  .  .  260 

Custard  Pie 261 

Custard  Pudding,  Baked  .  .  260,  261 
Steamed  .  .  .  261 

Damson  Tart 261 

Eclairs 262 

Filbert  Tartlets 262 

Fluted    Rolls      ......     264 

Frangipane 264 


Frangipan  Tart 
Geneva   Pudding      . 
Gingerbread  Pudding  . 
Golden    Pudding  .      . 

Gooseberry  Pudding,  Baked  . 


264 
265 
265 
265 
265 
266 
266 


Tart 
Granville     Tartlets 

Italian     Pudding 266 

Jam    Profiterolles 267 

Kleiner 267 

Lemon    Cheese-cakes    ....  267 

Pudding,  Baked 267 

Pudding,  Boiled 268 

Tartlets 268 

Macaroni  Pudding 268 

Madeira    Pudding 269 

Maids  of  Honor 269 

Mid-Lent    Fritters 269 

Mincemeat   (various)    .      .      .  269,  270 

Mince   Pies 271 

Molasses  Pudding 281 

Nouille    Pudding 271 

Oatmeal     Pudding        .      .      .      .271 
Open   Tart   of   Preserve    .      .      .271 

Orange    Tartlets 272 

Parisian    Tartlets 272 

Pastry     Sandwiches       ....  273 

Pears,    Compote    of      ....  273 

Petit    Nid    (Paper-Bag)     ...  285 

Pfeffernusse 273 

Picatostes 273 

Pineapple  Flan 263 

Plum    Pudding,   Cossack    .      .      .  274 

Pudding 274 

Polish  Tartlets 274 

Pommes    a   la    Duchesse    (Paper- 
Bag)        286 

a  la   Mascotte    (Paper-Bag)      .  287 

Pound    Pudding 274 

Prune    Tarts 275 

Pudding    a    la    Baronne    (Paper- 
Bag)      287 

a    la    Mayence    (Paper-Bag)     .  286 

a    la    Munich     (Paper-Bag)     .  286 

Puff  Paste  Rings  with  Jam   .      .  275 

Pumpkin    Pie 275 

gueen's    Pudding 275 

aspberry    Tartlets       ....  276 

Red  Currant  and  Raspberry  Tart  276 


INDEX  435 


PAGE 

Rice    Fritters 276 

Roly-Poly    Pudding      ....  276 

St.  Cloud  Tartlets 277 

St.  Denis  Tartlets 277 

Sausage   Rolls   (Paper-Bag)    .      .  284 

Savarin 277 

with  Pine-Apple 278 

Savoy  Pudding  .      .      .      .   •  .      .  278 

Saxon    Pudding 278 

Semolina    Pudding       ....  279 

Semolina,    Timbales    of     ...  280 

Snowdon  Pudding 279 

Spaghetti    Pudding       ....  268 

Strawberries,     Flan     of     ...  263 

Swiss  Pudding 279 

Tapioca    Pudding 280 

Tart   in   a   Pie-Dish    (Paper-Bag)  284 

Tea,    Cream    of 280 

Torrijas 281 

Turnovers,    Fruit    or    Jam     .      .  264 

Vanilla     Pudding 282 

Vermicelli     Pudding     ....  281 

Victoria    Pudding     ....  282 

Viennoise    Pudding      ....  282 

Welsh    Pudding 283 

Wine     Pudding 283 

Yorkshire    Pudding      ....  283 

TASTY  DISHES   FOR   BREAK- 
FAST, SUPPER  OR  HIGH  TEA. 

Bacon  Fritters 384 

Beef  and  Ham  Pastie  ....  384 

Sandwiches    in    Jelly     .      .      .  385 

Corned    Beef    Salad     ....  384 
Croutes     Strasbourg    aux     CEufs 

(Pa^er-Bag) 390 

Curry     Scallops 385 

Filleted      Soles      Fines      Herbes 

(Paper-Bag) 391 

Fish  in  Bread   Cases    ....  386 

Rissolettes 387 

with    Macaroni    and    Tomatoes  386 

Ham    and    Rice    Patties    ...  387 

Haricot    Bean    Salad    ....  384 

Beans,  Molded 385 

Jambon     Milanaise     (Paper-Bag)  391 
Kippered  Mackerel  Fines  Herbes 

(Paper-Bag) 389 

Kippers   and    Bloaters   aux  Fines 

Herbes  (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .  391 

Lettuce,    Stuffed 388 

Macaroni    Cutlets 388 

Marechale       de       Homard       aux 

CEufs    (Paper-Bag)     ...  389 

of    Crab    (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .  390 
Merluche    Fxme    a    la    Milanaise 

(Paper-Bag) 389 

Minced   Galantine 387 

CEufs     a     la     Bechamel     (Paper- 
Bag)        ...  ...  389 

a    la    Tripe    (Paper-Bag)    .      .  390 
aux  Tomates  (Paper-Bag)   .      .  388 
Riz     a     la     Strasbourg     (Paper- 
Bag)        390 

aux  Crevettes    (Paper-Bag)      .  390 

Sandwiches 383 

Scalloped    Kippered    Herrings     .  388 

Spiced    Gammon    of   Bacon    .      .  388 
Stuffante        a        la        Milanaise 

(Paper-Bag) 390 


VEGETABLES    (.see    also    under 

"  VEGETABLE  SALADS  "). 

PAGE 

Vegetables,    General    Instructions  123 

Artichoke     Chips 123 

Fritters 123 

Artichokes    and    Eggs    .      .      .  124 

(Bouchees    d'    Artichauts)       .  124 

Cream    of 124 

Scalloped         123 

Scooped 124 

Stuffed 124 

with   Cheese 125 

Asparagus,    (Paper-Bag)    .      .      .  151 

and    Cheese 126 

Boiled         "5 

Stew 125 

Vol    au   Vent   of,   and   Eggs  125 

with    Nut   Gravy        ...  125 

Beans   and   Wine    ....  126 

Broad,    (Paper-Bag)        .      .  151 

"       Croustades    of    .      .  126 

French,   with    Cheese    Sauce  126 

Haricot 134 

"       a  La  Milanaise  .      .      .  134 

"       with     Tomato       Puree  134 

Cabbage    a    la    Creme      .      .      .  127 

and  Eggs 127 

Baked 128 

Boiled I27 

Curried 127 

Red,    and    Apples    ....  129 

Sauerkraut 129 

Stewed 127,  128 

with  Cheese  Sauce   ....  127 

with    Cream I28 

Carrots   a   la    Flamande    .      .      .  129 

and  Peas,  a  la  Creme   .      .      .  130 

Glazed 129 

Stewed *3O 

Cauliflower,  Aigrettes  of  ...  I31 

au    Gratin 132 

Croutons I3l 

Curried J31 

Fritters 131.  *32 

To    Cook 130 

with    Onion    Sauce    ....  I31 

with  Tomato  Sauce  .      .      .      .  13* 

Celery,     Fried 132 

Corn   and  Egg  Toast  .      .      .      .  134 

and    Omelette 133 

au    Gratin 133 

Curried 133 

Fritters *34 

Rissoles 133 


with  Buttered  Egg   . 
ed     . 


Cucumbers,     Stuffet 

White  Puree 

White  Sauce 
Lentil  Fritters 
Marrow,  Vegetable,  (Paper-Bag) 


Marrow,     Vegetable,     au     G 
Fried    . 
Fritters 
Stuffed 
Mushroom  Croutes 

Sauce    

Mushrooms  and  Eggs  . 
and    Tomatoes 
au  Gratin 


atin 


132 
133 

133 
i3S 

IT38 
138 
138 
137 
136 
136 
137 

!*6 


436 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Mushrooms  Baked  .  .  .  .  137 

Blanched 135 

Broiled 135 

on  Toast 135 

Stewed 136 

Stuffed 137 

(Paper-Bag)  .  .  .  .  .  152 

Onion  Puree  with  Poached  Eggs  139 

Onions,  a  useful  hint  ....  138 

Spanish,  au  Gratin  .      .      .      .  139 

"         en    Surprise     .      .      .  139 

Stuffed 138,  139 

To  fry  .......  138 

Peas    and    Carrots,    a    la    Creme  130 

Peas,  Green,  a  la  Frangaise  .  .  146 

and  Lettuce  .  .  .  .  146 

Puree  of 146 

Stewed 14* 

"  with  Bacon  ....  146 

"  (Paper-Bag)  ....  152 

Potato  and  Cabbage  Cakes  .  .  142 

and  Rice  Cakes 141 

and  Tomato  Savory  .  .  .  .  141 

Balls 141 

Potato  Croquettes 142 

Cromeskies 142 

Mold 142,  144 

Pie 145 

Pies,  Little 140 

Puff  Balls 144 

Puree 145 

Pyramids 141 

Ribbons  ....  143 

Potatoes  a  la  Lyonnaise  143 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel  .  143 

and  Cheese  ...  144 

and  Eggs  au  Gratin  141 

Baked  (Paper-Bag)  152 

Cream 142 

Curried 140 

Dutch  Fried 144 

New 140 

'  Rechauffe  of  ....  142 

"  /Paper-Bag)  ....  152 

Pilgrim 145 

Puffed 143 

Souffle 140 

Stuffed 140 

To  Mash 140 

Pommes     Chateau      (Paper- Bag)  152 

Pommes    Paysanne    (Paper-Bag)  152 


PAGE 

Potatoes  Pommes  Maitre  d'Hotel 

(Paper-Bag)        .  153 

Sauerkraut   (Cabbage)  129 

Seakale,    Fried    ...  147 

with    White    Sauce    .  146 

Sorrel    Sauce    or    Puree  147 

Spinach  and  Eggs  .      .  147 

Fritters 148 

Patties 147 

Pudding 148 

Puree 148 

with    Cream 147 

(Paper-Bag)    ......  153 

Tomatoes    au    Gratin    with    Eggs  149 

Jellied 149 

Pie 150 

Puree 149 

Rice 149 

(Paper-Bag) 153 

Turnips  a  la  Poulette  .      .      .      .  150 

Glazed 150 

Vegetable,    Curry 150 

Vegetables,    To    Blanch     ...  4 
VEGETABLE    AND    FRUIT 

SALADS 

Anchovy    Cheese   Cream    .      .      .  317 

Apple  and  Celery  Salad   .      .      .  314 

Artichoke     Salad 317 

Cabbage   and   Potato    Salad    .      .  316 

Carrot     Salad 316 

Chapon 314 

Endive    Salad 316 

Flemish    Salad 315 

French    Bean    Salad     .      .      .      .  314 

Haricot    Bean    Salad    .      .      .      .  314 

Hot    Cabbage    Salad    .      .      .      .  316 

Lettuce  and   Tomato   Salad    .      .  315 

Lettuce    Stalk    Salad    .      .      .      .  314 

Nut    and    Celery    Salad    .      .      .  314 

Orange    Salad 317 

and    Cherry    Salad    .      .      .      .  317 

Potato     Salad 315 

Russian   Salad 315 

Sardine    and    Onion    Salad    .      .  316 

Vegetable  Marrow  Salad  .      .      .  317 

Shrimp  Salad 317 

Walnut    and   Celery    Salad    .      .  315 

Salad 3T5 

Watercress    Salad 316 

Winter    Salad 315 


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